How to install built-in. Installing a built-in hood: features and tips

AT modern world no kitchen is complete without a stove, be it. Housewives are increasingly giving preference to built-in appliances because of its functionality. However, such devices require proper installation. The correct operation of the oven and your safety will depend on how the oven is installed. It is not necessary to invite the wizard to install oven: built-in oven is easy to install with your own hands. To do this, you need to make a little effort and maximum attention.

First, let's look at what ovens are. There are the following types of equipment.

Installation of the first is impossible without a hob. When choosing the second type, the installation of a built-in oven is possible without the use of a hob.

Having decided on the place, you need to take care about suitable niche size in kitchen furniture. To do this, it is not necessary at first. Thanks to the standard dimensions of the ovens, they can easily be installed in an existing kitchen set. The main thing is that the niche is leveled. The presence of even a slight skew can lead to electronics failure and improper heat distribution (in the case of a gas oven).

Installation. Between the installed oven and the niche, in order to prevent overheating of the furniture, which can lead to a fire, there must be gaps. They provide ventilation. Behind the device you need to make a gap of 5 mm, on the sides - 5 mm and from the bottom - 10 mm.

Connection

Particular attention must be paid electrical wiring, if the installed oven is electric. The cross section of the wire must match the power of the device. You also need to decide how you will connect the device: directly to the wire or to the outlet.

When choosing the second connection method, you will need a plug (the usual one is indispensable here, due to the high power of the oven) for 40A with grounding. It needs to be unrolled. Then strip the three-core cable. The blue and red wires must be connected to the contact groups "phase" and "zero", and the remaining white wire is fixed in the "ground" connector (the colors of the wires may be different). We assemble the plug, which we then plug into an outlet that can withstand the power of an electric oven.

Electric oven cable marking

Now we insert the oven into the niche. We adhere to the above indents. Next, the built-in oven needs to be fixed. To do this, open the door of the device and find the mounting holes. Using a screwdriver or a Phillips screwdriver and four self-tapping screws, we fasten the electric oven to the walls of the niche. The built-in electric oven is ready for use!

As for connecting a gas oven, for your own safety, it is better to invite a specialist.

Using a flexible gas hose, he will connect the oven to the gas pipe. In this case, the device is installed at least 1.2 meters from the gas source. But even here you can’t do without electricity, because without it the ignition and lighting will not work.

It does not matter what power source the device is powered by, before using it for the first time, it should be ignite for half an hour. Then, after the final cooling, wash all the walls of the device and wipe it with a damp cloth.

Get and enjoy the process of cooking your favorite dishes!

Installing and connecting the dishwasher requires care and accuracy. After all, improper connection of a complex electrical appliance can cause not only incorrect operation of the machine, water leakage, but also electric shock to a person. The easiest way to connect a "dishwasher" is to resort to the services of a competent craftsman. If you have the desire and time, you can install the dishwasher yourself, saving money and personally making sure that everything is done efficiently and safely.

Let's preface the story about how to install a dishwasher (PMM) with a banal but important statement: a mandatory document for the installer, which must be studied very carefully before starting work - installation instructions. The dishwasher must be connected to the water supply, sewerage and power supply, respectively manufacturer's requirements. Most modern household-level dishwashers are connected according to similar schemes, but machines different types and brands have their own characteristics, which must be taken into account both during their installation and during operation.

If preparation for the installation of PMM is carried out at the stage of kitchen renovation, when it is not yet known which particular model will be chosen, it is advisable to first determine the type of machine. First of all, with its dimensions and type of water supply. Of course, you can always change something locally, but this extra costs time and money.

Always read the installation and operating instructions for the complex household appliances, it contains all the necessary information

It is advisable to think about the location of the dishwasher in advance. It is better to do this at the stage of kitchen renovation, if any is planned. In this case, you can pre-fit the car into a furniture set, making it convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

Having decided on the location, type (preferably with a specific model) of the PMM, its dimensions, it will not be a problem to provide for a competent supply of all necessary communications, which will greatly simplify the installation of furniture and equipment. A dishwasher can also be purchased after assembling the furniture, the main thing is to reserve a place for it and supply electricity, water and sewerage.

We recommend placing the PMM in an adjacent cabinet with a sink. Firstly, it is convenient: the smaller the distance between the sink, dishwasher, dryer, cupboards for storing plates and cutlery, the less tired the hostess will be. Secondly, the cabinet under the sink, which, as a rule, does not have a back wall, is the best place to place dishwasher outlets. Good access for work is provided, in case of repair the machine can be quickly turned off.

The space in the cabinet under the sink is the best place in the kitchen to place additional equipment, including PMM outputs and connections

Thinking through everything in advance is ideal, but not always possible. We will try to tell not only how a dishwasher is built into the kitchen at the furniture assembly stage, but also how to build a dishwasher into a finished kitchen, where you need to get by with a minimum of alterations.

Connecting PMM to engineering communications

In order to ensure the safe connection of the dishwasher to the mains, it is recommended to observe the following rules:

You can not use extension cords and tees, for PMM it is necessary to equip a separate outlet. It should be made near the machine so that, if necessary, you can quickly remove the plug from the plug. There are recommendations to place sockets for appliances below the level of cabinets, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe baseboards. We consider this solution not the best and we advise you to make an outlet in the cabinet under the sink, at a height of 25-40 cm from the floor. It is easier and faster to remove obstructing objects from a closet than to reach out in a tight space to a far-off plug.

It is advisable to run a separate copper three-core electrical cable with a cross section of at least 3x2.5 mm2 from the shield to the outlet for the PMM, installing an RCD or a 16 A circuit breaker on this line (for some small-sized models, a cable with a cross section of 3x2 mm2 and a 10 A machine is sufficient).

What if you need to build a dishwasher into a finished kitchen, where repairs have already been made and it is not possible to lay a separate cable? It is allowed to connect the dishwasher to a group of outlets along with not very powerful electrical appliances: microwave, electric kettle, refrigerator. It is strictly forbidden to connect the PMM to the same line with the electric stove. If there are problems with installing the machine on the shield, it can be placed directly in front of the outlet or their group.

If noticeable (more than 10%) deviations from the standard voltage of 220–240 V occur in the power supply network, it is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer on the power line.

The socket must have an earthed contact connected. However, not every apartment or private house has grounding.

Proper power supply for household appliances is not only a matter of comfort, but also of safety

Connection to the mains without grounding

What to do for those who do not have a third, grounding conductor in the electrical wiring?

The easiest way for owners of a private house. They have the opportunity to make a ground loop near the house by connecting the power grid to it. How is a topic for a separate discussion, but this is not such a difficult task, and the presence of a circuit with proper wiring will make the entire electrical system safe.

More difficult for tenants apartment buildings. It is possible that there is still grounding in the building, but it is not connected to the apartment. Grounding, as a rule, is present in those houses where there are elevators, heat points with alluvial groups, shops on the first floors. The third wire may not be on the apartment shield, but if it is in the house, it can really be brought into the apartment. This work can be carried out by an electrician of the operating company.

Worse, if there is no grounding in the building at all. Alternatively, the third wire is brought to the neutral bar in the shield, but this does not fully solve the issue. It is more correct to draw a separate two-wire line from the shield to the machine by installing an RCD on it. In the event of a breakdown on the human body, it can briefly shock, but protective device will turn off the power.

Those who do not understand electrics and do not know how to properly supply power to home electrical equipment should not try to do the work on their own, it is better to invite a specialist.

A variant of the RCD connection scheme on separate lines without grounding

Cold water supply

The plumbing network must comply the following parameters: pressure from 0.5 bar (0.05 MPa) to 10 bar (1 MPa), the amount of water supplied is at least 10 l / min. As a rule, networks comply with these parameters, but there are exceptions. If the pressure is lower than required (these are private houses), a pressure booster pump will be required. If the pressure is higher (these are the lower floors of some multi-storey buildings) - a reduction gear.

A coarse mesh filter must be installed at the water supply inlet to an apartment or house, a fine filter is desirable. If it is not possible to put a filter at the entrance to the apartment, this must be done in front of the car.

It does not matter how the outlet for the dishwasher will be displayed: a separate pipe or through a tee from the water supply to the mixer. The main thing is that the flow can be blocked by a tap and the latter is easily accessible.

Be sure to install a shut-off valve on the water outlet

In order not to have to fiddle with adapters when connecting the hose, it is advisable to immediately select a tap with the “correct” connection. For equipment officially supplied to the Russian Federation, the parameters are as follows: external thread, diameter ¾ inch, length not less than 10 mm.

If the outlet is far away, the short water supply hose can be extended, but not by extension, but by replacing it with a longer one. If we are talking about installing a used PMM, we recommend replacing the water supply hose with a new one. Make sure the hose is not kinked or kinked.

The installation of a built-in Bosch dishwasher (all modern models, with the exception of some compact ones) and some PMMs from a number of other companies initially provide protection against water leakage in the event of a hose rupture or other malfunction. In these models, the AquaStop system device is included and is installed on the water supply tap in front of the hose. AquaStop only works when the power is on. On other equipment, you can also install devices that prevent water leakage by purchasing them separately.

Today, there are many leakage protection devices on sale, they can be installed both on separate equipment and on the entire water supply system as a whole.

Is it possible to connect the dishwasher to hot water and save on it

The dishes are washed hot water, therefore, the heating element built into the device heats the cold one to the desired temperature. And electricity costs money. If an electric boiler heats hot water in the house, it makes no difference whether it is cooked in an electric water heater or directly in the PMM. But when there is hot water supply in the apartment or in a private house, a gas boiler prepares “cheap” water, spending electricity for heating cold water not suitable for dishwasher. Is it possible to immediately supply hot water to the PMM, saving a tangible amount? It is possible, but not in all models and with a number of reservations:

If hot water is prepared by a flowing geyser or a double-circuit gas boiler, the PMM connection to it is excluded. Only centralized hot water supply, a combination of single-circuit gas boiler with storage boiler, storage gas water heater.

It is necessary to inspect the water supply hose from the machine. If, among others, there is an inscription “25ºC” on it, only cold water can be connected.

You should carefully study the instructions for the PMM. If there are no temperature limiting markings on the hose, the manual will probably say something like this: “maximum water temperature is not more than 60ºC, cold water connection is preferred.” Preferably cold - does not mean that the device will fail from hot. It’s just that the built-in temperature sensor, which is designed for cold water, may incorrectly determine the temperature of the warm water that has entered it and not turn on the heating, if necessary. The manufacturer means that he is not responsible if, when connecting the machine to hot water, sometimes your dishes are not washed clean enough.

Now about the 60ºC limit. If we are talking about the preparation of water by a bunch of "single-circuit gas boiler + boiler", it is enough to set on the automatic control of water heating maximum temperature not higher than the specified value. Temperature hot water from a centralized water supply, as a rule, does not exceed 60ºC. If it is higher, PMM can be connected through a mixer with a thermostat.

Organization of drain into the sewer

During repairs, a separate drain can be removed for the dishwasher. It does not matter where to lay and bring out the pipe: in the wall or the floor. A number of conditions must be met:

At the inlet of the pipe to the sewer system, in order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor, it is necessary to place a water seal, since it is absent in the PMM. You can use a standard washbasin siphon, assemble a water trap yourself from three 90º sewer corners and one straight pipe, or purchase a special siphon designed for washing machines and dishwashers. It is compact, can be outdoor or designed for embedding.

Siphon for concealed installation (into the wall), for dishwashers and washing machines

If the sewer pipe is laid in the wall, the vertical distance between the drain hose connection and the water seal inlet to the wall must be at least specified in the instructions, usually 20-30 cm.

The inlet for connecting the hose should be located no higher than 60-80 cm, depending on the model. Better lower, at a level of about 50 cm from the floor.

The drain hose is designed for connection to the socket of a sewer pipe with a diameter of 40 mm, to a 50 mm pipe it is connected through a rubber adapter.

If the dishwasher is located not very far from the cabinet with a sink, it is easier to connect it to the siphon from the sink. This is all the more rational solution when the dishwasher is installed in the finished kitchen and it is not possible to redo the sewer. Many modern sinks already have a special siphon outlet for the drain hose from the dishwasher, it only needs to be fixed. If there is no outlet, it can be purchased separately.

After the drain hose is put on the siphon outlet, it is advisable to fix it with a crimp collar

The drain hose must be smoothly, without kinks, bent and fixed slightly above the mark of its connection to the sewer. It comes with a wall mount bracket for this. The top of the bend should not be higher than 60-80 cm and lower than 40-50 cm from the floor level, depending on the model. If the standard hose is not long enough, it can be extended or replaced, but the total length must not exceed 3 m.

How to embed a dishwasher in kitchen furniture

We talked about communications, now we will talk about how to install a dishwasher on your own in furniture. PMM differ both in size and in the type of embedding in furniture. Consider the installation features various kinds dishwashers:

Freestanding dishwashers

The freestanding model, as the name suggests, can stand alone, next to furniture, under a common work surface. Its cover can be used as a countertop, however, it should be borne in mind that the heat resistance of plastic is lower than that of a laminate. But if a freestanding PMM needs to be installed in a furniture row, under a common work surface, how to install a dishwasher under the countertop?

There are two options: the first is to lower the leveling feet to the minimum height and see if the machine fits under the countertop. Probably yes. If not, proceed to plan B: remove the top cover. Depending on the model, for this you need to unscrew the four screws on the sides or two on the back, but it is better to look at the instructions. PMM from the removed cover is guaranteed to fit under the countertop, provided that the working surface has a standard height of at least 85 cm. Having installed the machine in place, we connect the communications, open the valve, make sure there is no water leakage.

Video: connection and installation under the countertop of a freestanding model

Built-in dishwashers

How to install an integrated dishwasher? A full-sized dishwasher, unlike other built-in kitchen appliances (ovens, microwaves, refrigerators), is not placed inside a special cabinet. The built-in dishwasher is installed in the gap between the cabinets. Niche width - 45 or 60 cm, depending on the dimensions of the machine. The size must be maintained very accurately, the side walls of the cabinets must be strictly vertical.

It is better to install the countertop after installing the PMM. After the water hose, drain and electric cable are laid under the plinth and behind the cabinets to the connection point, the machine is placed on the floor and slides into the niche. With the help of adjustable legs, it rises to the level with the cabinets of the lower row and is set vertically.

After the built-in machine is installed in a row of cabinets, adjusting the rear legs becomes problematic. In many models, it is placed on the front of the case.

Installing a built-in dishwasher provides for fixing its body with the side walls of adjacent cabinets and a countertop. But we advise you not to rush and first hang the furniture door. How to install the facade on the dishwasher is described in detail in the instructions, there is also a special template with which holes are marked for fixing the clamps on the back of the facade. The latches fit into the grooves on the car door. By setting furniture facade, PMM must be aligned with the facades of the remaining cabinets. Now you can fix its body to adjacent cabinets and install the countertop.

The procedure for hanging a furniture facade on the door of a built-in dishwasher

If the space under the cabinets is closed by a plinth, you may have to make a cutout in the dishwasher area. Otherwise, the door may rest against the plinth when opening. At what height to cut, you will have to determine in place, it depends on how much the legs of the device are raised when adjusting. After the installation is completed, the built-in dishwasher 45 cm or 60 cm is connected to the communications.

Video: installing a built-in dishwasher in furniture

Compact Models

Compact models also come in two types: free-standing and built-in cabinet.

The first type is free-standing PMM 55 cm wide, 50 cm deep and up to 45 cm high, such a model can be installed inside the lower cabinet 60 cm wide and there will still be one free shelf. Or put on a countertop, a wide window sill, a low refrigerator. The machine is light, does not vibrate during operation, it does not need to be fixed, only connected to communications.

A compact dishwasher with a width of 55 cm and a depth of 50 cm fits in a cabinet under the sink along with a filtration system and there is still room for household items

Another type of compact appliances is a built-in dishwasher, the dimensions of which allow it to be installed inside a cabinet. In terms of dimensions, compact built-in PMMs are identical to built-in ovens and are mounted in typical cabinets 60 cm wide (opening 56 cm wide) intended for them. As with ovens, there are two sizes of dishwashers: full height (opening 60 cm high) and low (opening 45 cm). You can either build a dishwasher under the countertop or install it in a tall cabinet.

The door of the compact built-in PMM has a front surface; it is not necessary to install a furniture facade on it. The body of the machine is fixed to the cabinets, communications are connected via standard scheme.

Video: Bosch SCE 53M25EU compact dishwasher installation options

On the one hand, installing a dishwasher is not a very difficult task and you can do it yourself if you have basic knowledge of power supply and plumbing. On the other hand, improper connection of communications can be fraught with serious troubles. Particular attention should be paid to the electrical part, this is a safety issue. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the installation of PMM in an apartment or house to professionals. Of course, you will pay for the service, but you will save your time and save your nervous system.

Refrigerator, which is an invariable attribute of any modern kitchen, can be designed as a stand-alone device, or built into a kitchen set. In the latter case, after the purchase, it is important to correctly approach the issue of mounting the case in a cabinet, because. Difficulties often arise at this stage. Next, we will tell you how to properly install the built-in refrigerator with your own hands.

Installation Requirements

In the case when the refrigerator is designed as built-in, it is installed in a special case, which is part of the kitchen furniture set and made in the same style. On the front side, the pencil case is equipped with a front door, which is usually mechanically connected to the refrigerator door, that is, when the pencil case is opened, the built-in refrigerator also opens. There are more simple models canisters, the doors of which open independently of the appliance inside. In such an embodiment, the housing is defined as partially built-in. Consider a few important points that you have to deal with when installing yourself.

First, let's talk about the design of the pencil case (cabinet) or niche. This product can be part of a set of kitchen furniture, can be custom-made or made independently. In any case, the design of the canister must ensure the removal of heat from the operating unit, for which the following conditions must be met:

Installation is carried out so that there is a gap of several centimeters between the upper, lower and side walls of the cabinet and the refrigerator to ensure normal air circulation.
The back of the pencil case (cabinet) should be open.
A shelf equipped with ventilation holes should be provided at the bottom of the cabinet.

Now let's talk about where to install the built-in refrigerator. This issue should be guided general rules placement, as prescribed by the operating instructions for the refrigeration unit. If the enclosure is built-in, the following requirements must be met:

The pencil case (cabinet) must be placed in such a way that the installation of the refrigerator in the cabinet ensures a distance of several centimeters between the rear side of the unit and the wall of the room.
The selected location should ensure that the doors open to the maximum angle without hindrance.
open rear end cabinet should not be adjacent to radiators and other heat sources.

The photo below shows appearance built-in refrigerator located in the kitchen:

Electrical connection

Before the installation of a set of furniture in the kitchen is completed, it is necessary to decide where the built-in refrigerator will be connected. It is best to install a separate electrical outlet with a grounding contact, if necessary, install the wires from the electrical panel or junction box. The cross section of the conductors must be selected in accordance with electric power loads. If a group of sockets is mounted and it is planned to install and connect several electrical appliances, for example, a built-in refrigerator, hob and oven, then when choosing the cross section of the supply wires, their total power should be taken into account. The location of the socket (or sockets) is best chosen so as not to occupy open parts of the wall and at the same time ensure accessibility. For example, it is convenient to install sockets under the countertop, where they will not interfere, and the equipment can be easily turned off during maintenance.

The diagram below shows the optimal installation locations for sockets in the kitchen:

General installation procedure

Below is an algorithm of actions that you need to perform in order to install the built-in refrigerator yourself.

If we are talking about replacing a used unit with a new one, we carefully dismantle and pull out the old equipment case from the cabinet.
We unpack the new device, dismantle the transport fasteners. It is understood that when choosing a new unit, the internal dimensions of the cabinet were taken into account, the fastening points of the refrigerator doors coincide with the facade, if they are provided.
Before installing and connecting the unit to the power supply, we carry out a thorough inspection. After performing a test connection to the network, we make sure that internal circuit the device is working, the motor runs quietly and smoothly.
If the layout of the cabinet is such that the opening direction of the door needs to be reversed, the installation is door hinges on the correct side.
We install the built-in refrigerator in place. At this stage, in order to ensure optimal conditions for the operation of the unit and its silent operation in the future, you should use the level. Strictly vertical installation of the device is achieved by rotating the adjusting bolts located in the lower part of the housing.
Sometimes, to fix the case in the desired position, it is necessary to install small foam pads of suitable thickness, which can be discreetly placed in the gaps between the walls of the refrigerator and the cabinet, closer to its rear.
After that installation can be done facade panel closet. At the same time, all the provided installation products are installed, the operation of the doors and the stability of the entire structure are checked.
This is followed by connection to the mains and a final check of the product's performance.

It takes ~3 minutes to read

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A dishwasher helps many housewives get rid of their unloved work, while saving personal time. Having bought furniture, the question arises, how to build a dishwasher into the countertop and can the installation be done independently?

The advantages of technology are that the consumption of water with a dishwasher becomes several times less, and at current tariffs for utilities it is very profitable. In addition, after a few years of operation, the cost of this unit will fully pay off.

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Types of dishwashers

Dishwashers are divided into three types: built-in, desktop and freestanding.

Desktop machines are the smallest models that are installed directly on the countertop.
Free-standing machines can be mounted in a kitchen set or as a separate module. It is enough to connect them to communications and electricity.
Built-in models are suitable for a small kitchen, as they save space. Despite the fact that they are much more difficult to install and connect to communications than previous devices, they have a great advantage. The overall aesthetics of the interior of the room is not violated, since the dishwasher is hidden by part of the kitchen set box.

Where is the dishwasher installed in the finished kitchen?

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Before installing the machine, you need to find a suitable place for it. The main thing is that the water supply and sewerage should be located next to the equipment, and the heating system should be further away, since exposure to heat can harm it. Usually the built-in dishwasher is installed under the countertop. The device is made with standard and non-standard type of fastening.

When installing appliances with non-standard fasteners in a finished kitchen, you should carefully study the passport. The passport indicates which type of fastening is suitable for this box design.
Niches in modern kitchen furniture are equipped for built-in appliances with standard fastening.

How to install a freestanding under counter dishwasher? We select the section where the equipment will be installed, remove the shelves and disassemble it. If there is a need, then with the help of a screwdriver, the strips for fastening inside the box can be rearranged to another place.

Basic installation rules

A standard built-in dishwasher has a depth of 550 mm, a width of 450 to 600 mm, and a height of 820 mm. Simple instruction on the installation of equipment with your own hands is attached to each model. But you still need to know the basic rules:

Per back wall The device must always leave a space for air - at least 50 mm.
Manufacturers of built-in dishwashers subtract a few millimeters from the standard dimensions of furniture so that it does not have to change its size and shape. Boxes are made with a small margin, which are designed for built-in appliances.
You can find out in which places holes for decorative doors of the box should be made using special templates that are indicated in the installation diagrams.
It should be borne in mind that the control panel is located on the side of the machine.
The height-adjusting legs will help to correctly install the built-in dishwasher to the desired level and fit it tightly to the box.
Using the mounting brackets included in the kit, the device is rigidly fixed to the box with screws.

How to install a built-in dishwasher with your own hands

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Installation in a finished kitchen is a laborious process. Not everyone knows all the subtleties and installation rules. But by doing the installation yourself, without involving a specialist, you can save money. To do this, the installation instructions for the equipment, which is attached to each model, will help. The dishwasher is selected according to the depth and width of the kitchen set.

For installation, you will need the following materials and tools:

A set of screwdrivers, a gas wrench and pliers.
Roulette and building level.
Hose for draining and supplying cold water (usually supplied).
Sewer tee and tie-in for drainage.
Euro socket and cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm (three-core).
Corrugation, nipple, corner valve and adapter.
Angle, metal clamp, three-pass valve.
Siphon, water filter, aquastop system - if not in the machine.
Tow and fastenings.

Electrical connection

The first thing to do is to ground the sockets in the apartment if they are not grounded. For this work call a specialist. Usually in multi-storey houses, the ground wire is connected to a dead neutral line. It is impossible to connect the machine to a simple outlet, so another one is installed at a height of 250–350 mm from the floor. To connect equipment, only euro sockets are used. They are equipped with a safety earth wire. With the help of a 16 ampere machine, a socket for equipment is removed from the main contact connection.

In order for the electrical appliance to be safe during operation and its warranty period not to be lost, it is impossible to independently replace the standard plug with another model on the wire.

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Connecting the device to the water supply is easy. This can be done in several ways. The easiest and fastest option is to connect the inlet hose directly to the sink faucet in the kitchen. The disadvantage of such a connection: outwardly, a faucet with a hose look ugly and the faucet cannot be used while the machine is running. Despite the fact that this connection method is not very convenient, it can be used as a temporary one. The second option is more complicated, but much better:

To connect the machine, you need to install a branch with a tap. To do this, use a plastic or metal tee with an angle valve. It is installed on a water pipe. Well, if the tee is equipped with a built-in ball valve.
The dishwasher is supplied with a tidal hose, which is connected to a branch. If rigid pipes are used instead of a hose, then a filter is installed in front of the stopcock. Otherwise, a blockage will form on the heating part of the machine, which will lead to its breakdown.

How is a dishwasher built into the kitchen if several devices (washing machine, filters and taps) are connected to the water supply? In this case, a collector must be installed. With one collector, the number of tie-ins in the main pipe will become less.

Trying to save money, some consumers connect the dishwasher to the hot water system. You should not do this, since 5 to 10 liters of water is consumed per cycle of the machine, which is much more expensive. In addition, hot water can cause damage. check valve because it contains many different impurities.

Connection to the sewer system

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So that the dishwasher does not fail due to improper connection to the sewer, you need to know some subtleties. Sometimes, if the connection is incorrect, all the water from the machine goes into the sewer and the equipment breaks down. Or unpleasant odors from the sewerage enter the chamber of the apparatus. To prevent all this from happening, you need to know how to properly connect the equipment. There are two ways: with the installation of a siphon or using an oblique tee.

most reliable and safe way connections - this is with the installation of a siphon. It is he who protects the device from sewer odors and eliminates the occurrence of a siphon effect. The usual siphon installed under the kitchen sink is replaced with another siphon model, which has one or two additional nozzles. Next, the drain hose is connected to an additional outlet so that there are no kinks. Otherwise, the pump of the device may break down. A metal clamp strengthens the connecting place.
Connection using an oblique tee is not the best the best option. But sometimes he becomes the only one. This method is used if the sink is far from the connected equipment. To prevent additional load on the drain pump, the drain hose must not be extended. Therefore, a tee is cut into the sewer pipe (choose the nearest place to the equipment). Then a drain hose is connected to the tee. To in working chamber sewer contents did not get into the machine, the hose is made with ascent and descent. An additionally installed anti-siphon valve will protect the equipment from the siphon effect.

Installing the case in the kitchen countertop

When the connection work is completed, the machine must be leveled. The adjustable feet help you to adjust the position. Then, detergent is poured into the apparatus without loading dishes and a test run is carried out. The check will show: Save

In case of leakage, the nuts must be tightened or additionally wound with FUM tape. If everything works well, the dishwasher is built into the furniture set. A decorative facade is installed to the door of the apparatus, which will hide the machine externally. The facade is attached according to the scheme, which is indicated on the special templates supplied with the machine. A decorative door or panel is attached to the machine body with fasteners.

The dishwasher will last a long time and reliably without emergencies, if you take into account some recommendations of experts:

The dishwasher and countertop must be on the same level.
In order for the kitchen set to serve for a long time, the walls inside the furniture case are pasted over with a vapor barrier.
The furniture case must be strong if its bottom is a support for the apparatus.
The dishwasher is installed away from the electric oven, and it can not be installed under the hob.
The metal plate will well protect the countertop from steam.
At heavy load the pressure pump will not work well, so the length of the drain hose should be no more than 2.5 m.
Do not connect equipment through extension cords.
It is necessary to install and connect the equipment with all responsibility, since it is powered by electricity and there is water. And it's not safe!
To avoid being hit electric current must be grounded.

Video: installing a built-in dishwasher

Built-in vacuum cleaners appeared on the Russian market about 10 years ago and have since been widely used both in private houses and apartments. This relatively new invention has a number of undeniable advantages:

Firstly, you don’t need to carry a vacuum cleaner around the apartment, getting tangled in wires, secondly, while cleaning you can easily listen to music or watch TV, as the built-in vacuum cleaner works silently, thirdly, you no longer have to inhale dust, which is emitted in small quantities into the air by ordinary household units.

To start cleaning with a built-in vacuum cleaner, you just need to plug the hose into the pneumosocket, and the electrical contacts will close, which actuate the entire system. There may be several air outlets, depending on the size of the room. The power unit itself can be located in the pantry or on the loggia, and from it blowers can be carried directly to the pneumo inlets. The collected dust is sucked up by a hose with high power and enters the dust collector through the blowers. Since the exhaust of the vacuum cleaner is led outside, the air flow cannot pick up dust from uncleaned surfaces, as it happens when cleaning with a conventional vacuum cleaner, where the exhaust is led into the room.

In our article we will talk about self-installation of a vacuum cleaner.

It is worth noting that the most best time to connect the vacuum cleaner - the beginning of construction and repair work. In this case, you can easily lay plastic pipes together with other communications, hiding them under the screed, and disguise the holes for the pneumo inlets under the fine finish.

If you still decide to install a built-in vacuum cleaner in a renovated apartment, then you can hide the air ducts behind hanging or stretch ceilings, and hide the pipes in drywall boxes, behind furniture, under the plinth - there are many options.

So, in order to install the vacuum cleaner with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

electric drill
perforator
wall chaser
screws and dowels
adhesive for plastic pipes
if holes or strobes are made in concrete walls, then a diamond tool (discs, crowns, tips) will be required

Connecting the vacuum cleaner, operating procedure:

1. Plan the layout of the pipeline route and make the necessary holes and grooves in the building structures.

When planning the route for laying the pipeline, consider the following points:

The shorter the pipes, the better.
The number of fittings should be kept to a minimum.
Turns must be smooth.

If you are laying pipes not in strobes, hide them as much as possible in building structures, or mask them with building and architectural means: plinth, partitions, cornices, etc. Pipes can also be placed under false ceiling or hide in a corner box with a section of 60 × 60 and 60 × 80 mm.

To calculate the required number of pipes, fittings, fasteners and low-voltage wires, you can draw an axonometric diagram of the pipeline route.

2. Attach the vacuum cleaner bracket (included) to the wall with 4 self-tapping screws. The vacuum cleaner can be installed on almost any flat wall with a width of at least 600 mm.

For the convenience of emptying the dust collector, as well as better cooling of the engine, it is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and the vacuum cleaner. The minimum distance for a vacuum cleaner with a plastic container is 400mm, a vacuum cleaner with a paper bag is 100mm, the maximum distance is 1200mm and 800mm respectively.

When installing the vacuum cleaner in a cabinet or in a room with low ceiling, the distance from the top cover of the vacuum cleaner to the top of the cabinet or ceiling must be at least 300 mm. At the same time, holes with a total area of at least 100 square meters must be made in the upper and lower parts of the cabinet. see each For better cooling of the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner during operation, it is advisable to open the cabinet doors.

Installing a built-in vacuum cleaner with the muffler vertically up

Installing a vacuum cleaner with a muffler located near the floor under the vacuum cleaner

3. Install air inlets. They can be mounted both on vertical walls and in the floor. In accordance with this, pneumosockets are divided into two types: wall and floor. Outwardly, they differ only in the design of the decorative lining. The pipes are connected to the pneumo inlets through a socket plate, which is fixed on the wall or on the floor.

Installation of pneumatic inlets in a brick or concrete wall when laying pipes in a gate

In this case, it is preferable to use a metal socket plate with a plastic adapter.

Make a 60 × 90 mm strobe along the entire length, starting from the pneumo inlet. At the location of the socket, expand the strobe to one side and down to a depth of 15 mm, as shown in the figure:

Connect the socket plate adapter to the short 90o elbow, connect the pipe section. Temporarily fix the structure. The mounting holes of the underplate plate must be strictly vertical, and its plane - parallel to the plane of the wall. The depth of the plate must be at least 14 mm.

Mark the position of the fixing holes in the wall (2 holes for the plate and 2 for the socket). Remove the temporary pipe and socket plate fasteners. Drill holes in the wall, hammer plastic dowels into them. Reinstall the socket plate with a short 90o elbow in its place and fit all pipe sections.
Glue the resulting design. Lubricate the adapter of the rosette plate with glue, and with a turn of 90, put a short 90o elbow on it with a longer socket to the rosette plate. Lubricate the end of the fitted pipe with glue and glue it to the other side of the short bend.

Pass the end of the wire through the hole in the socket plate for a length of 120-150 mm. Fasten the wire to the pipe, install it in place with the socket plate and secure the structure with permanent fasteners.
Remove the free end of the wire inside the socket plate, and close the hole with a temporary plug. Fasten carefully with screws or self-tapping screws no longer than 20 mm.
Seal the strobe and the space around the plug with cement-sand or gypsum mortar flush with the wall surface. When the solution hardens, remove the plug and expose the ends of the wire by 15-20 mm. Connect the wires to the contacts of the air inlet and install it in place of the plug. Make sure that the outlet cover opens from top to bottom.

Installation of air inlets in a brick or concrete wall with open pipe laying

Lay a strobe in the wall, as shown in the figure. Perform the remaining operations by analogy with the previous paragraph.

Remove the top of the box. Fasten the lower part with self-tapping screws so that the center of the bottom of the box coincides with the center of the hole in the air inlet.

Glue a short 90o elbow to the adapter. Attach the top of the box to the bottom. Connect the rest of the pipe elements together and fix the wire on them. Lead the end of the wire 100-150 mm long through the hole in the top of the box.
Release the end of the wire from the insulation and connect it to the contacts of the pneumo inlet. Install the air inlet in place, securing with two self-tapping screws.

Installation of pneumatic inlets when laying pipes inside a hollow partition

For installing a pneumo inlet in a partition made of drywall, chipboard, etc. metal underlays are used.

On the front side of the partition, mark the location of the air inlet and make a hole in the shape of a hexagon.

Pre-assemble all piping in the bulkhead so that the center of the free end of the 90o short elbow is in the center of the hex hole.
Break off the fastening lug of the wide plate under the rosette, grease the adapter with glue and attach it to the short 90o elbow.
Pass the end of the wire through the hole in the socket plate and secure it to the outlet. The length of the free end should be at least 120-150 mm.
Insert the inlet into the socket plate so that the self-tapping screw can be screwed in for fastening.

Release the end of the wire from the insulation by 10-15 mm and connect it with the contacts of the pneumo inlet.
Release the valve cover and, with your index finger in the inlet valve, fully insert the metal socket plate into the hole. The plate must fit snugly against the wall with inside, and the decorative socket cover - from the outside.
Align the valve vertically and secure the inlet with self-tapping screws.

Floor inlets differ from wall inlets with a smaller thickness of the decorative plate. All other ways of attaching floor and wall sockets to the socket plates are the same. At floor installation the same socket plates or boxes are used.

Make a hole or strobe in the floor of such a depth that the decorative plate of the rosette fits snugly against the floor surface. Any dimensions can be accepted, depending on the used socket boxes with an increase of 5 mm.

Air blowers are used to remove the air flow and can be installed in niches or in the plinth of furniture. The second option is preferable, since in this case the installation and operation of the built-in vacuum cleaner is simplified.

The connection of air scoops to the pipes of the system must be without gluing, so that at any time it is possible to change the scoop or its part.

4. Installation of the pipeline. The direction of pipe laying is not critical. Start at some end point, such as the farthest rosette plate.

When laying pipes, be guided by the following principles:

All turns must be carried out using long branches with one or two sockets. The short outlet is installed only on the socket plate adapter and on the outlet of the air scoop.
For branch lines, use 45o single tees, double ends, or long 90o tees. Install the tees in such a way that two air streams merge into one without turning.

Branching vertically downwards in the same plane with the main line is allowed only in exceptional cases, but it should be borne in mind that dust may accumulate in such branches near the air inlets located below.

If vertical branches are required, the following solutions are possible:

When connecting a non-return valve to a pipe at the outlet to the atmosphere, the pipe must extend to the valve cover by at least 5 mm.

5. Lay the low voltage wires in a loop. Place the spool of wire next to the vacuum cleaner. Pull the end of the wire through drilled holes to the farthest wall inlet or scoop, secure to the circuit board.

After you have fixed the wire in the first outlet, proceed to the next ones. Grab the main wire through the drilled holes and pull the loop up to the circuit board. Remove the insulation on the loop and fasten the bare wire to the board. Attach the rest of the loops to the air inlets and the air scoop in the same way.

6. Check system performance. This should be done no earlier than 30 minutes after the end of the assembly, as all glued seams must dry out.

Plug the power cord into a grounded electrical outlet. Usually, all models of vacuum cleaners have an on indicator - the light should light up.
Check the correct operation of each air inlet, air scoops and wires. To do this, connect the dust hose in turn to each air inlet.
Check the system for leaks with a vacuum gauge on a vacuum cleaner. The system is considered sealed if the readings of the vacuum gauge in the pneumosockets in the absence of vacuum trays differ by no more than 5%, or by 10% in the presence of vacuum trays, from the readings in the outlet installed on the vacuum cleaner.

The vacuum cleaner can be used 4 hours after installation.

We thank the company for the materials for the master class.