Do-it-yourself country house: diagrams and instructions on how to build a country house. Do-it-yourself country house - a simple step-by-step instruction for stylish summer houses (75 photos) Do-it-yourself garden house

Buying a summer cottage is a joyful event in the life of every person. And it’s good if a solid house is already present on the site. However, even in the absence of a residential building, you can easily solve this problem by doing the work of building a house with your own hands. It doesn't have to cost a lot of money. There are interesting projects of country houses that allow you to build full-fledged residential buildings with your own hands from available materials.

The simplest country house can be built from logs, cement and sawdust. Even these elementary materials make it possible to build a beautiful, reliable and warm structure. At the same time, such a house will be completely environmentally friendly and safe for human health. Instead of cement, you can use a mixture of clay, straw and sand.

First step

Make a foundation. The design will weigh quite a bit, so the simplest strip or columnar foundation, which is more preferable in such situations, will do.

Second step

Prepare the base for the house. For the lower strapping, it is recommended to use the highest quality timber as possible. Before laying the timber, it is necessary to lay reliable waterproofing on the foundation. Also, the beam of the lower trim must be waterproofed from above.

For additional rigidity, the strapping beam should be braided with wire. The load-bearing walls of the house are made up of wooden poles. At the end, you should get a stable frame structure.

Third step

On top of the waterproofing of the lower trim, lay out the rollers of cement or clay-sand mortar. Fill the gaps between such rollers with sawdust and proceed to laying out the firewood. Before laying firewood, it is recommended to impregnate it with an antiseptic composition.

Fourth step

Take a rounded knife and use it to spread the mortar between the stacked firewood. Over time, the wood will dry out, and you will need to fill the gaps with mortar as they appear.

Fifth step

Lay out the walls of firewood in layers. They laid a layer - filled up all the gaps with sawdust - laid a new layer and so on until the end. As a result, you will get already insulated walls.

sixth step

Sand the edges of the wood with sandpaper. Any kind of burrs will additionally retain moisture, so you need to get rid of them especially carefully.

In the end, you just have to fold the simplest truss system and install the selected roofing material. Give preference to lightweight materials. For example, bitumen is well suited for the roof of such a house.

From the inside, the walls can be plastered, sheathed with clapboard or trimmed at your discretion. Outside walls are usually left unchanged. In any case, finishing is recommended not earlier than after 1-2 years, because. during this time the wood will shrink. You will have to fill all the gaps that appear with the materials mentioned earlier.

The simplest house-hut can be built with minimal financial investment.

First stage. Make a standard pile foundation and tie it with prefabricated beams.

Second phase. Install the floor beams of the house. The basis of such a structure is represented by rafters in the form of the letter "A". Rafters are installed on a pre-insulated floor. If the house will have a large height, the elements are spliced truss system in height.

Third stage. Sheathe the outer side of the walls of the house with OSB boards.

Fourth stage. Pull on the sheathed walls a wind-moisture-proof material such as isospan.

Fifth stage. Sheathe roof slopes with the OBS boards you already know. Such sheathing will be a good basis for rolled roofing material. If desired, you can equip a standard crate on the roof and use other finishing materials - profiled sheet, metal tile, etc.

Before laying the finishing roofing material, the roof must be insulated. Usually mineral wool is used for insulation. In the process of performing these works, do not forget about the need to create ventilation gaps. To organize them, a counter-lattice is equipped - it is enough to nail the transverse strips to the elements of the crate to make a small gap.

From the bottom of the roof, install ventilation grilles that will allow air to circulate normally in the under-roof space.

Excellent earthen house with your own hands

A house made of earth is one of the most ancient variants of residential buildings known to mankind. With the observance of technology from ordinary land, you can get a durable, fire-resistant and fairly warm building that does not require practically any financial investments for its construction.

First stage

Prepare the foundation for the future home. In parallel with this, prepare the main building material for the construction of the house in question - bags filled with rammed earth. For the foundation, dig trenches with a depth of about 50-60 cm. Choose the width individually - it should correspond to the width of the bags of earth.

Fill the prepared trenches with gravel. The backfill must be carefully compacted. Cover the entire area under the future earthen house with an approximately 20-centimeter layer of gravel.

Second phase

Lay waterproofing material over the backfill.

Third stage

Draw the circles of the future walls with a building compass. It is desirable that the house has a round shape. Of course, an ordinary rectangular building can also be built from bags of earth, but it is the round walls that are characterized by the highest strength.

Fourth stage

Lay the first layer of pre-prepared bags on top of the previously laid waterproofing material. The mixture in these bags should include soil, sand, cement powder and gravel.

Fill the bags to about 80-85% of the volume and tamp as carefully as possible. Each bag used should be in the shape of a rectangle, like a brick. For better tamping, the mixture in the bag should be slightly moistened with water. Sew up the valves of the bags with ordinary wire.

Be especially careful when laying the first row of bags. Everything must be done in strict accordance with the previously applied markup. Tamp the bags and lightly dampen them with water.

Fifth stage

Lay 2 rows of barbed wire on the first layer of masonry. In this case, the barbed wire will take over the functions of the reinforcing layer. Seal all punctures and ruptures of the bags immediately with gray adhesive tape. This is waterproof tape.

Sixth stage

Start laying out the walls. Install door frames and window frames immediately. Lay each row of bags with earth with a double layer of barbed wire. Additionally, you can secure the wire with staples.

seventh stage

Fill the seams between the individual bags with a mixture of sand, cement, chopped straw and lime.

The bags need to be laid out with some offset seams, approximately the same as with traditional brickwork.

Having reached the height of a person, you can begin to shift each row of laid material to increase the strength of the walls being erected.

The laid walls are plastered. Before applying the plaster, the bags should be treated with cement laitance and allowed to dry. Plastering is carried out on a steel painting grid.

At the junction of the walls, perform additional reinforcement with the same barbed wire.

The interior decoration of an earthen house is usually limited to simple plastering.

In the end, it remains to equip the roof of the earthen house. First install the beam supports - they must be securely clamped between the bags. Sheathe the floors with OSB boards, and lay the finishing material on top. The best coating option for this case is bitumen.

After completing all the basic work, you can cover the walls of your earthen house with finishing plaster or paint.

If desired, even an ordinary change house can be converted into a quite comfortable country house.

First stage. Prepare the tape concrete foundation. It is also allowed to use column foundation, however, first you need to make sure that the soil on the ground is not subject to severe frost heaving.

Second phase. Let the concrete of the base gain at least half of the branded strength, and then install the change house on the foundation. A crane will help you with this. Adjust the position of the change house with the boards. Pre-treat the boards with an antiseptic and place them under the skids of the building.

Third stage. Assemble the frame of the extension to the change house. To do this, use a 10x5 cm beam. Install the supports on the veranda and triple the horizontal runs under the rafters.

Fourth stage. Sew on the outer side of the walls of the change house a crate for siding or other selected material. For additional insulation, put in the crate mineral wool and cover it with plastic wrap.

Insulate the floor and walls of the extension. From the inside, the insulation must be covered with vapor barrier material.

Fifth stage. Complete the exterior cladding of the house. It is most convenient and rational to use vinyl siding for this.

Sixth stage. Lay out the roof. Metal tile is best combined with siding. Otherwise, when choosing a finish coating, be guided by your preferences and financial capabilities.

Seventh stage. Attach snow guards to roof slopes. Insulate the attic as desired.

Eighth stage. Complete interior decoration house. For example, walls can be sheathed with drywall, covered with a couple of layers of putty and painted. Level the floors and install your preferred floor covering.

As a result, after the addition of an additional room and simple finishing work, the old change house turns into a very comfortable house with a separate bedroom and a large living room-kitchen.

Thus, for the construction of country houses, you can use a wide variety of materials. Craftsmen adapted almost everything that occurs in nature, and even straw, for such work!

Now you know how to build from affordable and inexpensive materials, and you can build a reliable, safe and comfortable house in your summer cottage.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself country house projects

Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of economy, not only Money and their labor, but also land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house make it possible to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building made it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation that is no less reliable than a full-depth tape foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.

The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:

Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.

The simplest and quick ways construction of a small house - assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of medium-sized chimpanzees trained according to the instructions for the kit mental capacity. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.

A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut on the soils of various, but possessing one common property- sufficient own connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage.

Unburied

An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm.

Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week.

buried

The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required.

A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installation of a frame house


The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous:

  • No preliminary geological surveys are required.
  • Geo-screws can be wrapped in rather heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or a piece of concrete with a child's head will push the screw to the side.
  • Special equipment and access roads for it are not needed: 2 people with a crowbar or a home-made collar from a piece of pipe wrap up to 10 or more geo-screws per day.
  • Preparatory earthworks are not required: the screw is simply placed with its end in the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. Align vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third - half.
  • Screwed geoscrews can be turned in/out to align the heads to the horizon.
  • There is no need for a technical break for foundation settlement - construction can be continued as soon as the last screw is wrapped.
  • An incorrectly wrapped screw can be unscrewed and wrapped again close to the old well.

Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What house to build?

We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way:

  1. House from a military kung;
  2. House-hut;
  3. Bungalow house;
  4. Frame house.

When not to excess

KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

  • Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
  • The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction change house, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
  • High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kung have been standing almost without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not visible to demolition.
  • Fire safety is built in.
  • Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input board (VS) and terminals for grounding connection.
  • Ample opportunities for redevelopment, interior equipment and decoration (see below).
  • No legal clearance or installation permit is required. Bought - brought - delivered - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.:

There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all.

In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure:

Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house

But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of ​​heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

  1. They lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
  2. The supporting A-frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130 ... 150) x40 lying on the plaza - any fairly solid flat surface;
  3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for skewness and in size, this is extremely important for a hut house;
  4. The verified frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
  5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, set vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
  6. When all the frames are right, they fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge run, also from a pair of boards;
  7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal screeds;
  8. At the puff level (cross tie of the A-frame), the ceiling is assembled; without it, the house will not be strong;
  9. The floor of the house is assembled according to the usual technology for wooden houses;
  10. Sheathe the wings of the frame with 40 mm boards lengthwise, highly preferably tongue-and-groove;
  11. Assemble the frames of window and door openings;
  12. Sheathe facades;
  13. Produce other required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”.

Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size.

Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed.

Bungalow and… bungalow

In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages:

  • In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for sheathing, because. unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (sheathing), up to unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
  • The bungalow house is very different and can be built on a non-buried foundation on soils up to and including strongly heaving.
  • In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the penetration of atmospheric moisture into the skin is minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps.

Bungalow like bungalow

Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat.

The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed.

Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure:

The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor.

Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step.

The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order:

  1. Assemble the bottom frame on the foundation;
  2. Racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
  3. Assemble the upper frame on racks;
  4. Pioneer holes are drilled for the brackets (marking - by the brackets themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the mustache of the staple, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the mustache;
  5. The grooves are chosen under the shelves of brackets, because. staples must be recessed into the tree;
  6. Staples are baited with a hammer;
  7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and put the top steel fasteners;
  8. Finish off the staples with a sledgehammer;
  9. Produce wall cladding;
  10. Temporary braces are removed and other work is done.

Skeletons

The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.:

The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:

Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house

It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.

Panel buildings are an excellent solution for those who like to spend time in the country. You can build them inexpensively in just a few weeks. At the same time, in terms of their thermal and functional characteristics, they are not inferior to block houses. Houses have reasonable prices, are safe, environmentally friendly, and outwardly attractive.

Most popular designs and sizes

If you don't know which project to go with, decide on the size of your home. The size depends on the number of people who will use the panel house, and on your financial capabilities. The most popular sizes in meters:

  • houses 5 by 4 m
  • 5 by 5
  • 6 by 4
  • 6 by 5
  • 6 by 6
  • 6 by 7
  • 6 by 8
  • 6 by 9

In addition, country houses can have a second floor, an attic, a bay window, a veranda, a terrace, a balcony. They can be both for seasonal summer residence and for winter. They can hold both electricity and water. However, most often inexpensive panel houses do not provide for year-round living. Most often they are purchased by those who need a roof over their heads in the warm season. In winter, buildings are used to store country equipment.

You can draw a project yourself by reading useful information about design and.

How is the installation and installation

The construction of panel buildings refers to the frame type of construction. For a light wooden building, the simplest foundation is suitable - columnar or pile. A frame made of timber is installed on it. The beam is taken 15 cm or 10 cm - depending on the thickness of the insulation. If the house will be used only in the summer, then a 10cm beam will do.

The frame of the house is installed on the formwork, starting from the corners. Corner vertical racks require special attention. The pitch of the racks is equal to a meter (approximately), it should be the same around the entire perimeter. In the place of the window opening, we install the upper and lower bolts, which distribute the load.

Be sure to use the struts in the corners, they are attached to the lower trim and racks, fixing the rack strictly vertically.

Shields are attached to the frame, inside which there is a heater 10 cm or 15 cm, depending on the width of the beam. Also put waterproofing and vapor barrier, which is a diffuse membrane. Waterproofing and vapor barrier is overlapped and fixed with a special adhesive tape.

After installing the walls in the same frame-shield method, we install the roof. We make a roof frame from a bar, insulate them and isolate them, cover them with shields, after which it is possible to mount the roofing material.

Features of buildings for summer cottages

Buildings for summer cottages have their own characteristics. Summer houses are used only in a certain season, so you need to pay attention to the following construction nuances:

  1. If water is supplied to the house, and it is not planned to live in it in winter, it is necessary to drain the water during the frost period. Frozen water in the house without heating can lead to pipe rupture.
  2. Security methods. If in winter the house will be used as a place to store summer equipment, think about security measures against thieves - perhaps it makes sense to install bars on the windows or make shutters?
  3. If light is brought into the house, oil-filled electric batteries can be used. With slight frosts, being in the country will be comfortable.
  4. Houses that are built in dachas need outbuildings - it is convenient to store dacha tools in them, without which a dacha is not a dacha.

In addition, it must be admitted that wooden buildings, in which no one lives for the seasons, fall into disrepair faster than housing for permanent use. Therefore, they must be well waterproofed, all joints must be foamed, and the wood must be of high quality. The temperature difference leads to cracks, and poor ventilation, which all frame-panel buildings differ in, to the accumulation of moisture inside the insulation and on the walls.

However, at the same time, wooden buildings are prone to less freezing than block ones. They maintain a comfortable temperature for living longer, and need much less heating to maintain heat. Read about other features of country frame houses in our article.

Do-it-yourself frame-panel house - on a columnar foundation

The builder himself, the installer himself

You can build a country house with your own hands, saving a decent amount of money. For this you will need:

  1. Foundation materials. It can be concrete, formwork, rebar, anchor bolts, piles, cushion sand, insulating materials and others, depending on the type of foundation chosen.
  2. For the roof: timber for the truss system, insulating materials and insulation, board, roofing material, etc.
  3. Frame materials: wooden beam, board, OSB or OSB-3 panels, moisture-resistant plywood, insulation, materials for exterior facades and interior walls.
  4. Materials for the device of engineering networks.
  5. Consumables: nails, screws, bolts, self-tapping screws, corners, etc.

Best rates from companies

The cost of country houses depends on the size and complexity of the project. The simplest frame-panel house for summer living can be bought for 200,000 rubles. Frames with an attic will cost about 250 rubles. A house with an attic and a terrace will cost 300,000 rubles. A house with a veranda and two floors will cost the same.

A two-story house with a bay window and a terrace under a common roof measuring 7x7 m costs about 600,000 rubles, while the house is suitable for year-round use. In general, the price of a panel house for a summer residence will be in the range of 200,000-300,000 rubles. The cost of a building measuring 6x9 or 6x11 m ranges from 370,000-470,000 rubles.

With independent frame construction, the cost can be reduced by a third. Read more about the cost of building frame panel houses.

A do-it-yourself garden house will fit perfectly into any site.

To build it, if your site is only a few acres, means to create a zone for rest and storage of the necessary utensils.

If you have a lot of land and already have a real country house, then a garden house will be an excellent solution for placing work equipment and decorating the interior of your site.

The advantage of this building is that you can make it yourself, without involving many specialists.

In addition, the construction of a small building will cost much less, and it will be easier to implement it.

First of all, refer to the photo instructions and diagrams - they will make your work easier and make construction much easier.

The main stages of building a garden house

  • foundation laying,
  • walls and roof are being erected, insulation,
  • finishing (usually siding),
  • creation of the interior.

Construction begins with a project.

House designs can be ready-made - you can take them as is, or you can slightly transform them to fit your needs. Therefore, first of all, decide for what purposes you need a garden house.

Most often it is used as a temporary shelter for the summer months, and maybe infrequent winter visits. In winter, the roof of the garden house will cover tools, garden furniture and other necessary things from snow.

Since the first purpose of the house is living, you need to make it comfortable for life, both in winter and in summer.

Photos of projects of such buildings look like this: a floor plan (s) indicating the size of the premises, drawings of the roof, supporting floors and nodes in which the walls meet the floor and ceiling.

See photos for more clarity.

If you are planning to bring light and heat into the house, then you need to think about the schemes of communication networks.

After the projects, diagrams and drawings are drawn up, you will see how much material you need to be able to start construction, and also how much money you have to spend on it.

A standard frame house made of wood or foam blocks for a summer residence is 6x7 meters, but you can make your frame house larger or smaller. After you decide on the size, you need to choose a place on the site.

The best solution is the highest point of the site in the north or northwest side.

Small garden houses made of wood or foam blocks, as a rule, are one-story, the roof is sometimes with an attic. See photos of options for timber buildings below.

Such buildings are the most convenient, because. the interior can be used as a bedroom and dining room, and the roof (attic) is used as storage for belongings, tools and summer kitchen items.

Building materials

The construction of a small house can be made from:

  • tree,
  • beam,
  • brick,
  • foam blocks.

Construction of foam blocks and osb is the most prefabricated option.

OSB boards are made from wood chips, the size of which is about 15 cm. OSB is an environmentally friendly and cheap material, and assembling a house from OSB resembles assembling a designer.

OSB boards are made by pressing three layers of chips - the pressure on the material is so strong that they literally intertwine with each other, so the end result - OSB board - is very durable, does not crumble or fall apart.

Whichever option you choose, you cannot do without a wooden beam - it is needed for the frame of the building.

Only the frame is made of a wooden beam, for the rest of the elements - the roof, floor, ceiling, trim, etc., you can use lumber (usually from pine).

Before you start laying the floor, do not forget to dry the material from the timber - it must be dry to avoid shrinkage and deformation that occur when the wood dries.

If you trim the outer walls with clapboard, then it must also be completely dry.

In addition to wood and foam blocks, you will need insulation, asbestos cement sheets, roofing material and other materials for processing and fixing.

If environmental friendliness is important to you, then you can use more wooden elements: timber, boards, etc.

They can be used to make floors, frames, wall decoration, etc. In this case, you will need tools for cutting and installing wood.

The first stage of construction from foam blocks is the construction of the foundation: it is on it that the future floor will be located.

If you are planning to build a small garden house with your own hands from brick, concrete or stone, you need to make a strip foundation, if from wood and foam blocks, a columnar one will be enough.

Under the foundation itself, concrete, rubble concrete or any stone of natural origin is most often chosen.

Look at the photo of pouring the foundation.

Before laying the walls, a rough beam is placed on the foundation - it will create the outline of the walls. It is fixed with ordinary nails.

Between the foundation and the first row of timber, waterproofing must be made (usually with the help of roofing material).

As the basis of the frame, 4 pillars are made of timber - they need to be dug in each corner of the perimeter. They are attached from below with long nails. The roof is laid on the frame.

How to make a frame, see the photo.

After fixing, the frame should become rigid - now it can be finished inside and out. It is necessary to lay pieces of timber in the edges of the corners (fixed with nails). Linen tow is placed between the timber.

Immediately install the door frames.

The base (beams) of the first floor are laid directly on the strip foundation. A draft floor spreads from above - it is made of planed boards.

Then you need to make a screed and place a heater. It is recommended to lay a clean floor one year after the subfloor has been laid, as boards shrink and cracks appear.

The draft floor is covered with roofing paper, and heat-insulating material is used as waterproofing.

The next year, you can cover the floor with laminate or ordinary boards - depending on how you want it to be.

Watch the video on how to build a garden frame house and repeat all the steps of construction.

How to insulate and decorate a house?

If you decide to build a garden frame house with your own hands from foam blocks or osb, then you are in luck, because this material itself is quite warm. Wall insulation is carried out only from the outside.

Insulation of internal walls is not carried out due to the fact that condensation may form.

After the walls have been insulated, they should be finished - primarily to decorate the interior (usually finished with siding).

Before starting the insulation, you need to prepare the walls. First, their surface is cleaned, then the primer is finished.

After drying, the walls are treated with plaster in two layers - after that, insulation can be carried out.

After plastering, the wall should become even. The second layer is covered with reinforcing plaster, which will make the surface of the walls even. This material is used for insulation.

In general, this process is quite difficult, and if you do not have experience, then it is better to entrust the insulation of the house from foam blocks or OSB to professionals.

The most commonly used materials for insulation are mineral wool, thermal panels or expanded polystyrene.

The latter is the cheapest, so if you want to make economical insulation, choose it.

The most attractive - thermal panels. They will provide not only the insulation of the house, but also a decent view of the exterior interior.

Exterior decoration of the house

After warming the house, finishing will be required. As a rule, they choose siding trim - it looks good and is suitable for any type of building.

Of the advantages of finishing with siding, light weight, ease of installation, durability and reasonable price can be noted.

In the photo below you can see how the roof of garden houses is arranged and how their exterior decoration is done.

You can choose any color of the material: look at the photo and decide which color is best for your site.

The siding coating cannot be done immediately on the walls - before that, you need to mount and install the crate, on which the material will then be installed.

If you chose metal siding cladding, then the only option for you is a galvanized profile - it is installed around the entire perimeter of the walls.

In addition to the profile, it will be necessary to carry out waterproofing. When these points are completed, you can proceed to the decoration of the walls with siding.

The panels are attached to the starting bar, the upper ones are fixed with self-tapping screws in the center. This is how all the panels are installed, rising in rows to the roof and windows of your house.

Don't try to fasten the panels very tightly - the normal condition for a siding finish is a little loose movement. When all the panels are laid, the top row is fixed with the final plank.

The video below shows an overview of the frame garden house.

You can cope with finishing the house with siding with the help of video and photo instructions.

Finishing with siding will not only protect your building from the effects of the external environment, but will also decorate the external interior, so it is recommended to choose this particular finishing material.

Interior decoration of the house

Interior decoration means more work with the interior of the house. First of all, think about the competent delimitation of space - do not build to turn the house into incomprehensible cluttered areas.

Wood trim is the most popular option, because it is the most natural material.

For wall decoration, you can buy wooden or bamboo panels, or use what you have in your country house.

Perhaps the most important and noticeable part of the garden house is the veranda. From its interior depends on how the appearance of the building will look.

Depending on the device, the veranda can be a separate space or be a continuation of the main room.

The photo below shows the interior decoration in the garden house.

Decorating the interior of the veranda is not a troublesome business. The main requirement is more open space.

You can build it open or equip it with removable frames. Here you can organize a summer kitchen or dining room.

The "natural" interior of the veranda is well complemented by baskets and vases with flowers, wicker furniture or a wooden table.

It is better to abandon plastic materials in favor of natural ones - this applies to all home decoration.

The floor can be covered with bamboo rugs or wood paneling.

See photos of the device of the veranda and other rooms of the garden house - they will help you with creating an interior in your own building.

A house on a land plot is simply necessary, because a summer house is not only a garden, but also a place to relax, and there will always be somewhere to hide from bad weather. As a rule, the design of such houses is not particularly difficult, so even beginners in the construction business will not have problems. Read more about how to make a country house with your own hands in this article.

Choose the type of house, taking into account the budget

The budget for the upcoming construction is far from always unlimited, quite often the financing of the construction of a country house is carried out according to the residual principle, but even in this case you can choose a good option.

We can distinguish the following types of houses in suburban areas:

  • capital (made of natural stone, brick or wood);

  • small houses, usually made of wood - frame construction technology is used;
  • country houses from block containers - almost finished structures;
  • houses for children stand apart - it is rather a combination of a playground and a small gazebo.

At the same time, the time and financial costs of building a small house will be comparable to the costs of building a medium-sized barn. And the use of modern technologies will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Start of construction

In the case of using frame construction technology, the entire process can be divided into separate stages:

  • foundation device;
  • bottom strapping device;
  • fixing the frame elements- racks and braces, installation of a log, if necessary, assembly of the frame of the second floor;
  • wall cladding;
  • building a roof frame and sheathing it;
  • laying roofing elements, interior decoration of the house, protecting wood from climatic influences.

None of these operations require special skills, so everyone can build a house in the country with their own hands.

What should be the foundation?

Under a brick house, there is simply no alternative to a reinforced strip foundation. But if a tree is used, then the main task of the foundation will be not so much in the perception of a large load, but in raising the house above ground level.

Therefore, with frame construction technology, concrete or brick pillars (pile foundations) are often dispensed with, the top of which is 30–50 cm from the ground. It is important that the tops of the pillars are in the same plane. This is an inexpensive option, especially compared to.

The basement is built of brick after the construction of the house itself. It is not recommended to make it solid, this will lead to the fact that moisture from under the house will evaporate very slowly.

Note!
On the area that the foundation will occupy, it is necessary to remove the vegetative layer of soil and replace it with sand.
Thanks to this, water will not stagnate under the house and the tree will not rot.

Bottom trim

This is the basis for the future floor and support for the frame of the walls. It is assembled from 10x15 cm bars and is attached directly to the foundation.

Advice!
It is undesirable to connect the bars end-to-end in the corners - this will not provide the necessary rigidity.
It is recommended to use a punched connection, which is additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws or an anchor.

Sometimes in the foundation itself, even during the masonry process, reinforcing outlets (10-15 cm) are left, on which the strapping bars are then simply put on. This method of fastening can be considered optimal in terms of rigidity and strength of the connection.

Wall frame

At the planning stage, the main attention should be paid to the development of the framework of the structure. You can prepare drawings of a country house with your own hands, or you can choose the appropriate option on our website.

The main element of the frame is a vertical post, rigidly connected to the upper and lower trim. You can attach it to the strapping bars either using metal corners, or select a groove in the strapping bar and simply insert the rack into it.

The corner connection is less rigid, so it is advisable to use it only in small houses. If the structure is large enough, then these 2 methods can be combined.

In order to prevent the racks from warping during the assembly process (as long as they are fixed only in the lower part), they are additionally fixed with temporary braces in the form of ordinary planks. Permanent braces are installed only after the work with the top trim is completed.

Note!
In the bars of the upper trim, the holes should be exactly above the holes in the lower trim.
A shift of even a couple of centimeters will cause a curvature of the frame racks.

In the process of assembling the frame, you must not forget about window and door openings. The main rule is that the load from the structure should not be transferred to, (so as not to warp it). Therefore, openings are always made wider than the window or door itself. The cracks then simply foam up and hide behind the platbands.

In the corners of the house, for greater strength of the frame, it is possible to install not frame planks, but bars with a section of 10x10 or 10x15 cm. Grooves are drilled at the end of the bar and in the strapping, into which a wooden cylinder is inserted. Additionally, the connection is fixed with metal corners. In general, when assembling the frame, each connection can be strengthened with corners, but in this case the construction cost will increase.

In parallel with the collection of the frame under the walls, you need to do the construction of the floor.

In frame construction, 2 options for flooring are possible:

  • when grooves are selected in the strapping bars and logs are attached to them. Reduces the bearing capacity of the beams, suitable only for a small construction site;
  • when the logs are assembled into one whole (it turns out a kind of box), then it is laid on top of the strapping and attached to it with self-tapping screws.

If a do-it-yourself house for a summer residence is planned for winter living, then you need to insulate the floor. For this, ordinary foam is suitable, which simply fits into the gaps between the lags. The gaps formed after laying can simply be foamed with mounting foam.

Installation of the upper trim and wall cladding

The installation instructions for the upper trim contain the same points as for the installation of the lower trim. After completion of its installation, you can remove the temporary braces and finally strengthen the frame of the walls with permanent braces.

After that, in the bars of the upper trim, samples are made for the logs for the ceiling device. If desired, these lags can not be hidden, but rather turned into an interior detail. The logs should extend slightly beyond the walls, this will be needed when installing the rafters.

As for wall cladding, for this you can use an ordinary board, lining or siding - the choice depends more on the budget. But regardless of the material chosen for sheathing, you need to insulate the walls, especially since the price of insulation is not so high.

To do this, a heater, for example, mineral wool, is simply inserted between the racks of the frame. Then, a special film is fixed from the outside with a stapler (it allows moisture to pass in one direction), the battens of the crate are stuffed on top of it. And only after that the sheathing of the frame begins.

Roof frame device

The simplest and cheapest option is a flat roof. In this case, it is enough just to observe the desired slope even at the stage of assembling the wall frame. But the classic gable roof is much more common.

The rafter system is selected depending on the size of the house. So, for a small building, you can use a hanging system. In this case, the rafter legs rest only on the walls or on the logs.

A layered system will be needed if the house has internal load-bearing walls - additional supports are installed to prevent the rafters from sagging.

A crate (solid or trellised) is stuffed over the rafters and a waterproofing carpet is spread. After that, it remains only to fix slate, tile or any other coating on the slopes.

Children's country houses

They are a combination of a small house and a playground. Therefore, the main requirement here is the presence of imagination in parents. You can build a house for a child in the country with your own hands in just 1-2 days.

When working out the design of such a structure, you can use the following tips:

  • you can make it 2-story, and place, for example, a sandbox on the lower floor;
  • not superfluous will be a slide adjacent to the house;
  • an external staircase to the second floor is required;
  • you can equip it with a "warehouse" for toys (shovels, buckets, etc.).

Of course, a child will not live in such a house. The main purpose of the "new building" is a fun pastime with friends.

Block containers as a country house

Standard cargo containers can be used, unless, of course, the elongated shape of the future “home” is embarrassing. If desired, you can cut the side walls with a grinder, arm yourself with a welding machine and use the container frame as the basis for the house. Welding will require electricity, but renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will solve this problem.

Summarizing

The house is an integral part of any suburban area, in fact, this is exactly what distinguishes the cottage from a simple garden. A small house on a land plot will require a minimum of time and financial costs, but it will make outdoor recreation unforgettable and become a cozy corner for all relatives and friends.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.