1. Mood matters

Do not enter the workshop if you are tired, in a bad mood, or if your thoughts are busy with other things. At best, your carpentry success will not be impressive, and at worst, it may end in injury.

2. Eyes, ears and lungs need protection

Always wear eye and ear protection with a noise reduction rating (NKK) of at least 22dB when operating machinery and power tools. A dust mask is better than nothing, but an N95 rated respirator is preferred. When working with painting equipment, the respirator must be rated N95 or N99.

3. Get help from others

Most carpenters are willing to share their experience and give advice. A few minutes spent talking with a fellow carpenter or just a neighbor, and a complex process will turn out to be simple and enjoyable. You can also seek help from the online forum community.

4. Restock

Always keep a sufficient supply of essentials in the workshop, including masking tape, double-sided tape, hand cleaning paste, tweezers with a magnifying glass, a first aid kit, and a fire extinguisher.

5. Don't get too organized

Buy or make your own cabinets, shelves and trays to suit your needs. When everything is in order, the work will be contentious and enjoyable, and you will spend less time looking for tools and supplies.

6. Spare

When sawing out lethals for the next project, make a few extra ones and use them to check and tune the equipment. Leftover scraps can be used to test stains and other finishes to get an accurate idea of ​​how they will look on the finished product.

7. Don't save every penny

Thrift is a good habit, but you should not overstep the line of reason. Wood is renewable natural resource, and if you accidentally ruin the workpiece, you can buy a new gloss. Sandpaper wears out in 5-10 minutes. Glue has a limited shelf life (usually a goal or two). Banks with paintwork materials, on the surface of which a dense crust has formed, should be discarded.

Related article: 8. Life is too short to put up with a bad workbench

Whether you're buying a pre-made workbench or making your own, make sure it's strong enough, has a flat work surface, and at least one heavy duty vise.

9. Don't expect perfect results.

The desire to create a project without a single flaw can "unsettle you", because it is almost impossible to do so. So don't worry too much about the mistakes you will inevitably make. Instead, learn to eliminate them and prevent their occurrence in the future.

10. Take the time to prepare

Sometimes it's worth spending an hour or two crafting a special tool to perform an operation that takes five seconds. Devices provide safety, accuracy and repeatability of the actions performed.

11. The appearance of the product is more important than the waste of material

Mark the position of the workpieces to be cut with chalk on boards and sheets in order to rationally use the material. However, sometimes it is better to cut in such a way as to eliminate defective areas and to benefit from a spectacular texture pattern or color. When purchasing lumber, plan to lose 10-20% as waste.

12. Adhesive + smooth surface = strong bonding

Forget the once common opinion that roughness is needed for good gluing. Smooth surfaces stick together better than rough surfaces. Take the time to make the mating surfaces of the parts smooth and tight against each other. Remember that glue does not adhere to burnt surfaces, so avoid them.

13. How to avoid chips - two simple means help with cracks

Chips can irreparably damage the workpiece. To prevent their occurrence, support the workpiece from the reverse side using appropriate aids. Purchase or make your own splinter guards for your circular saw, band saw, miter saw (test miter saw below), drill press. Attach a piece of wood to the corner stop to prevent chipping on the back edge of the workpiece. When milling, also support the exit point of the cutter from the workpiece using a suitable offcut.

Make special anti-splinter liners for different saw blade angles and machine settings, such as beveling and grooving.

14. How to process rough boards - the correct procedure

Here's how to process unplaned material to obtain blanks correct form.

1. Cut the blanks with a length allowance of at least 6 mm, while getting rid of the end cracks.
2. Sharpen one face on planer.
3. On a thicknesser, make the other face parallel to the first and cut the workpiece to the final thickness, removing the same amount of material from both sides.
4. Work one edge on the planer, making it perpendicular to the face.
5. Sawing the workpiece to the final width on a circular saw.
6. Cut the workpiece to the final length.

15. Nothing replaces accurate markup

Neither glue nor putty will help save a weakened connection. Therefore, get high-quality marking tools - a combined square, a steel ruler, a marking knife and a thicknesser - and learn how to work with them.

16. Don't cut artificial materials on planers

Composite materials, such as plywood, chipboard and MDF, due to their high adhesive content, dull planer and thicknesser knives much faster than wood.

17. Templates guarantee fast and accurate results

When you need to make several identical parts with cutouts or curved contours, you can speed up work and achieve accuracy by sawing them in a bag and processing them according to a template on a milling table.

Fasten several blanks with double-sided tape. The rod stop will help to keep the package at the beginning of the passage.

18. Assembly first, then glue

Always dry assemble before applying adhesive. You don't want to find ill-fitted joints or irregularities after the adhesive has been applied.

19. Pre-sanding pays off.

Before assembly, finish sanding as many parts as possible, especially their internal surfaces, which will be difficult to access after assembly.

20. Don't be picky about clamps

Most of us hardly need anything more sophisticated than inexpensive, time-tested pipe clamps. Stock up on sets of clamps 30 long; 60; 90 and 120 cm, four pieces of each size. To get longer clamps, connect them to each other with couplings or buy longer pieces of pipe and simply rearrange the clamps between them. Add to that some handy "one-handed" clamps (such as the Quick-Grip) in 15 and 30 cm lengths. Purchase other clamps only as needed.

21. Install hardware, then remove and reinstall

Before applying a stain or clear coat, assemble the product and install metal parts to make sure everything is working as it should. Then remove all the hardware, apply the finish and reinstall the hardware. This ensures that the coating is applied to all surfaces of the product, except for metal parts.

22. "Almost right" angle means not square

When assembling products with right angles, it is important to achieve perfect squareness, especially if this item has inset doors or drawers. Therefore, buy or make mounting brackets that ensure a neat assembly. Without them, you are doomed to fixing bugs for the rest of the project.

23. Know about wood and how to saw it

Get to know the most common tree species (especially those native to your area). This will help set your “inner radar” to look for great deals. You can save money by purchasing unedged boards at local sawmills and lumber depots. First, learn to distinguish between sawing methods. Radial sawn boards are the most expensive, but at the same time they are resistant to warping and produce the least waste. Tangential sawn boards, on the other hand, are cheaper, but tend to warp and generate more waste. Mixed sawn lumber is intermediate between the two types described.

radial cut

tangential sawing

mixed cut

24. Wood changes dimensions - keep this in mind!

Seasonal fluctuations in air humidity cause shrinkage and swelling of wood. Changes in size mainly occur in the direction across the fibers, and only slightly along them. Keep this in mind when creating products, otherwise the parts will crack, the joints will fall apart, and the moving parts will jam. These problems can be minimized by allowing the materials to adapt to the humidity in your workshop by allowing them to sit for a few days before going to work.

Even when the moisture content of the wood reaches a stable level, the same as in environment, the tree is still changing its size due to seasonal fluctuations in humidity.

25. Learn the real meaning of the concept of "cubic capacity"

Outside hypermarkets, timber flails are set per cubic meter (a unit of volume equivalent to a dense stack measuring 1x1x1m). Measurements are made as follows: the thickness of the board is multiplied by the width and length, expressed in meters. For example, the volume of one board 50x150x6000 mm is 0.05x0.15x6=0.045 m 3 . There will be 22 such boards in one cubic meter (1: 0.045 = 22.2).

26. Sharp means safe

Dull knives and chisels require more effort when cutting wood. Increasing the force makes it more likely that the tool will slip or you will lose control of it, and this often leads to injury. So sharpen your hand tools regularly.

27. Know when to spend and when to save

Buy high-quality machines and tools if you intend to use them for decades (milling cutter, circular saw and thicknesser machines). Equipment that is used only occasionally (oscillating and belt sanders, pneumatic stapler) does not have to be expensive.

Steel tools rust. Learn how to remove and prevent rust, especially if you live in a high humidity environment. Put aside homemade recipes and try one of our tried and tested rust-fighting products, such as Empire Top Saver Rust Remover and Protector, Boeshield Rust-Free Rust Remover, protective agent Boeshield T-9.

29. Thickening will not flatten boards.

The thicknesser machine makes the two planes of the board parallel, but it is not able to eliminate the buckling or helical twisting (wingedness). First you need to process one face of the board on a planer, so you should have both of these machines. The cost will pay off in savings due to the ability to work with cheap unplaned boards.

30. Hand tools can sometimes work faster than electric ones.

Let's just give two examples. Chamfering with a small one usually takes less time than installing a cutter and setting up a router. A good hacksaw will allow you to cut a ledge on a tenon in semi-darkness faster than a saw machine.

31. Improved filter for dust extraction system requires additional cost

When purchasing a chip blower, remember that the degree of filtration is just as important (if not more important) than the air flow (l/min) developed or the engine power. Most chip blowers come with a standard 30 micron filter, which puts a lot of dust back into the air you breathe. Purchase a filter with a purification rate of no more than 5 microns, and if possible, then 1 or 2 microns.

32. Buying a router in a set is profitable

If you can only afford one router, choose a medium power model (1300 to 1700 W) as part of a set that includes a plunge base and a fixed base. Set the fixed base to milling table, and for milling in manual mode, move the electric motor to the plunge base.

33. Both inexpensive and high quality cutters have their uses.

Large sets of cutters, in which the cost of one cutter is $ 1-2, it makes sense to buy if you use them infrequently. Those cutters that you use constantly (mostly rounding, copying, straight, helical, chamfering and rebate cutters) are better to buy separately, without being stingy. They cut cleaner, stay sharp longer and last longer.

34. Machine tools need care too

Almost any new machine needs to be adjusted to achieve high accuracy. During routine maintenance, check (and correct if necessary) the settings you have made from time to time. So, the grooves for the corner stop and parallel stop saw blade must be aligned parallel to the saw blade. This will ensure the accuracy and safety of sawing.

To set the saw table parallel to the blade, use a dial indicator or a combination square. The table is set correctly if the measurements at the front and rear edges of the disc are the same.

35. Oily materials can cause a fire

Rags and brushes soaked in stain or oil-based varnish can ignite if left lying in a cup or thrown away when damp. Hang them up separately and let dry before getting rid of them.

36. Finish panels before assembly to avoid shrinkage problems

Door or side paneling of cabinets made of solid wood should be painted and finished prior to assembly. In this case, with the inevitable drying of the panel, its unfinished edges will not be exposed.

37. When spraying, remove the back wall

When applying a coating from a spray gun to a body with a back wall installed, excess composition (overspray) will fly off from it right in your face - an unpleasant prospect. Instead, remove the back wall and paint it separately.

38. Hand sanding will provide the best appearance

Despite the large, at the final stage it is necessary to grind manually in the direction along the fibers in order to eliminate transverse scratches-risks.

39. Find best way finishes

It is not necessary to master the technologies for applying all existing types of coatings. Find one or two finishes that work for you (say, an oil-based finish for items that are rarely handled, and polyurethane for items that need a lot of protection) and learn how to work with them.

40. Additional grinding will help to avoid darkening of the ends

Sand the visible end cuts with sandpaper one number higher than the face and edges. In this case, the ends will absorb less stain and will better match the color of the entire product.

41 Products to be stained need additional polishing

When sanding planed parts, start with 120 grit sandpaper, then move on to 150 and 180 grit abrasives. If you are going to apply oil or clear varnish, stop after sanding number 180. However, if you are toning the piece, sand it with sandpaper up to 220 grit to remove the small scratches that will appear after applying the dye.

42. See the marks of the cutting tool in time

Badly visible at natural light marks left by cutting tools (burrs, ripples and steps after processing in a thicknesser machine) can lurk on the front sides of your product, waiting for the finish to be applied. To identify them, inspect the parts under oblique lighting, and if defects are found, remove them with sandpaper, a planer or a cycle.

Based on materials from the magazine for artisans “Wood Master” (excellent edition)

Practice: BOSCH GCM 12 GDL miter saw test (not advertising)

The miter saw, which we mentioned above, mentioning the fight against chipping when processing a part, is convenient and effective when performing both small and large amounts of work due to operational preparation and quick readjustment of the saw blade angles. Cutting accuracy and cut quality ensure that the task is completed the first time without rework, that is, without wasting time and material.

The package includes itself Miter saw GCM 12 GDL Professional with mounted saw blade, bed angle locking handle, workpiece clamp, dust bag and two hex keys. If you need to cut aluminum parts, you should additionally purchase special saw blades with a trapezoidal tooth sharpening.

PREPARATION

The stage did not take long. A sturdy kitchen table was used as a workbench. We securely attached the saw to its cover with four M8 bolts. The next step is to install a handle that fixes the angle of rotation of the bed. A special bag was put on the suction pipe to collect dust. To fix the workpiece, a clamp with a screw fastening is used. It's good that the designers provided for bed extensions. It was thanks to their extreme position that it was possible to securely fix the workpiece, although it was long.

We calculated the connection angles of the rafter elements in advance, and now it only remained to accurately set them on the calibration limb. By turning the working bed, we set the first corner and fixed it.

On the workpiece of the truss element, the marks of the beginning of the cut were already applied. The workpiece was placed on the bed and pre-fixed it. After that, the mechanism of spatial movement of the working body was unlocked. By moving the locking lever, the saw blade was lowered onto the workpiece and, loosening the fastening of the latter and moving it, aligned the saw teeth with the mark. It remains to connect the saw to the network and turn on the start button

The very first sawing pleasantly surprised me with the ease of the process and the high quality of the cut. Advancing the saw bottom requires almost no effort. The lever mechanism for moving the working tool is compact and really easy to use. Changing the sawing angle was quick and easy. There was no change in the cutting angle during sawing - the subsequent assembly of the rafters showed a high accuracy in the execution of the cutting angle of each element, which significantly reduced the time for their final assembly.

Saw control is literally at hand: the saw blade angle lock is on the bed ledge on the left, the rotation angle lock is on the right, and the random movement lock button is in the center.

A double laser marker is convenient - the lines show the actual width of the cut, and not its middle. This allows you to more accurately cut, which is also very important. In general, working with this tool is a pleasure. The movement is easy, smooth, without jamming, the fixed parts are rigid, the graduation scales are easy to read, the standard blade cuts very accurately. However, the absence of a button to block accidental start of the engine requires special attention, especially in the process of mastering the novelty. It should also be borne in mind that at the maximum cutting angles at the end of the process, the moving part of the saw may touch the arm lock lever or the clamp post.

How to check the quality of lumber and choose a quality one? A few tips.

Procurers cut each log in such a way as to get the maximum number of boards or beams from it, which vary quite a lot in quality.

Good lumber has fewer knots and less chance of warping.

AT good boards for the manufacture of flooring, wood fibers are usually parallel to the surface of the board or at an angle to the surface up to 45 ° (Fig. 2). Lumber with a transverse arrangement of wood fibers to the surface of the board is a low grade of construction wood.

When making flooring, try to lay the boards up with the side that is closer to the bark of the tree.

Otherwise, the edges of the board will rise when warping, and it will accumulate even more water, which will lead to rotting of the wood.

Construction timber can be fresh or dried. Lumber dried in special ovens is much more expensive than fresh lumber, and the wooden structure you made will eventually dry out on the street on its own.

When choosing blanks, make sure that they do not have longitudinal and transverse cracks, delamination and splits of wood.

These defects not only weaken the load-bearing capacity of the boards, but also make them unsightly, and can also cause dangerous splinters.
Also try to avoid buying lumber that is warped, warped, or twisted.

Rice. 2. Lumber blanks and defects: 1 - wood fibers are parallel to the board face; 2-wood fibers are located at an angle to the board face; 3-wood fibers are located across the surface of the board; 4 - cracks; 5 - stratification of wood; 6 - splits in the workpiece; 7 - board warping; 8 - twisting the board; 9.10 - curvature of the board relative to different axes. CONVENIENT DEVICE FOR FOLDING CLOTHES To ... How and how to protect overhangs ...

Today we will talk about how to work with wood. Of course, we will not be able to cover the entire arsenal of techniques and methods for processing wooden parts in one article, so we will only touch on those tips that will be useful to you in the carpentry workshop.

(FIG. 1). In the most critical wooden structures, parts glued at the ends or at an angle are also strengthened with screws for strength. Many novice craftsmen in these cases, without further ado, simply prick holes in the details and drive long screws into them. The screw head remains outside.
But a self-respecting master is unlikely to use such a technique - the head spoils the appearance of the product. Yes, and the effect of this connection is small. Usually experienced carpenters use this technique.
To the part prepared for gluing with clamps, they glue a piece of board with a side cut at an angle of 75 °. The drilling limiter is set to the required level (if they are working not with a drill, but on a machine) and a shallow blind hole is drilled with a drill matched to the size of the screw head - the result is a neat “pocket”. Then change the drill to a thinner one (according to the diameter of the screw) and drill a through hole.

The glued parts are connected with screws, and the holes in the parts are covered with putty.

(FIG. 2). It takes a steady hand and a precise eye to cut the long side of a board at an angle. But a little trick, sometimes used by cabinetmakers, will help everyone master this operation.

On the upper surface of the board being processed, next to the cut line, a 50x100 mm bar is strengthened with clamps - a hacksaw will rest on it. When sawing, the hacksaw is held at an angle and make sure that the teeth go exactly along the markup. The desired bevel is obtained automatically (see Fig. 2).

(FIG. 3). Experienced craftsmen drill it in two steps: first on one side to the middle, then on the other to the end. Get clean and even holes.

(FIG. 4). So that the bar, the end of which is sawn off at an angle, does not slide along the stop, resourceful craftsmen glue sandpaper to the supporting surface.

(FIG. 5). If you have to make rectangular frames, do not be lazy and make a simple device for this work.

In the middle of the plywood sheet with guides on a circular saw, make a cut (depending on the width of the workpieces being processed) and, retreating from it by 5 - 6 mm, nail two planks glued at right angles, Fix the stop so that each plank is exactly at an angle of 45 ° to the cut line. Cover the supporting surfaces with sandpaper so that the parts do not slip, and get to work.

(FIG. 6). A mark made on the table 10 - 15 cm from the saw will help you to set and then cut off the workpiece with great accuracy.

Two options for making cuts(FIGS. 7 and 20). These tips are good if you have to make several identical parts with oblique cuts or cuts, as carpenters call them.
The first device is also convenient in that it allows you to automatically determine the desired mowing. For example, you need to get a cut of 25x300 mm. Install the legs of the device so that the distance between them is 25 mm near the mark. Now press the part against the fixture as shown in the figure and cut it: get a bevel with sides of 25 and 300 mm.

The second fixture (Fig. 20) greatly simplifies the matter when you need to make parts with the same bevels on all sides, for example, table legs.
The figure shows how the legs are cut in this fixture. The part is installed on the first step and one side is cut off, while the opposite side is processed on the second step.

How to cut and straighten thin material(FIGS. 8 and 9). Even experienced craftsmen sometimes find it difficult to evenly cut a large sheet of thin material without special tools. Therefore, many of them, in order not to tempt fate, use an emphasis bar in such cases. They attach the material with clamps to the stop and, resting it against the edge of the table, cut the sheet.

But, if you need to align trimmings of thin material of different sizes, carpenters use another device - a board with a guide and an emphasis. They immediately put three or four blanks on the board, align them on one side and cut off the other, leading the fixture along the groove in the table with a circular saw.

You can also fit the part on the drum(FIG. 10). Parts for a spherical surface are usually trimmed with a semi-circular file. And if you try to do it on a grinding drum? We are sure that it will be faster and better.

(FIG. 11). It is known that surfaces to be bonded bond better when they are pressed together tightly. But how to compress two planks glued at right angles? Can be clips with spikes. And it can be done in a simpler way. You see it in the picture.

To prevent the prisms from slipping off the planks, glue them with sandpaper or, fixing them with clamps on the parts, drop a drop of glue on them.

(FIG. 12). Wide manholes in the same details can be made with a chisel and a hammer. But if you have a circular saw, use it for such work.

From cutting plywood or boards, make a simple stop with “steps”. Cut the “steps” in the board so that the width of each of them is equal to the width of the saw. The distance between the first and last "steps" is the width of the groove. Installing alternately the workpiece on each of the "steps" and making cuts, you will get an even rectangular groove.

(FIG. 13). The edges of a wooden circle are usually reinforced with metal rims for strength. The rim is placed on top of the working surface of the circle, and so that it does not protrude, it is recessed, that is, a shallow groove is knocked out in the tree along the perimeter of the circle, equal in width to the rim.

For this operation, often quite complex special devices are used. But it turns out that you can make exactly the same ledge along the edge of the disk much easier, for example, directly on a circular saw (see Fig.). To make the work go faster, we recommend processing the circle on the stop.

(FIG. 14). Drilling wooden disks will be much easier if you use a board with a triangular cutout for emphasis. Moreover, you need to place it on the table so that the drill is exactly on the bisector of the cutout angle.

In order not to spoil the veneer(FIG. 15). When fitting large panels finished with veneer, the first thing the master thinks about is: firstly, how not to spoil the surface of the part (not to chip off the veneer) and, secondly, how to make the cut more evenly. Both problems will disappear immediately if we adopt the method shown in the figure. As you can see, everything is simple: from below, a piece of board is attached to the tablet with clamps - the veneer remains intact, and it is easier to cut the cut evenly.

(FIG. 16). If you glue the tablet from separate boards and do not take into account some features of the tree, then the work can be irreparably spoiled.
The first commandment: when gluing blanks, arrange the boards so that the direction of the wood fibers alternates. Second: place the clamps on both sides, alternating through one.

(FIG. 17). Sawing a wide board with a sharp saw is easy. But even a sharp saw will not help you if you are new to carpentry. Therefore, at first, until the hand gets stronger, use a stand - a bar when sawing.

(FIG. 18). Masters know what a difficult, tedious work it is. But it can be simplified if you use the same circular saw. A minimum of fixtures: an emphasis with clamps and a small measuring frame, and you are the owner of a simple and convenient tool for making the recesses you need.

The figure shows that the width of the cut depends on the angle at which the workpiece is set in relation to the saw. To determine this angle, a special measuring frame is used.

(FIG. 19). Thin identical parts, for example, from plywood, can be sawn off one at a time, marking each part separately, or together: in a package according to a template. Experience shows that the second method is much more convenient, especially when you need to make parts with great accuracy.

To prevent the template from slipping off the blanks, thin nails are driven into it from below, the flip-flops are bitten off with wire cutters and the rods are sharpened sharply.

as my teacher used to say in my childhood, you need to start with

tool, and preferably from a tool box and a workbench.

Woodworking: The process of making something using wood.

Most beekeepers become carpenters or use their services.

The craftsmanship of woodworking is one of the most ancient and widespread types of human activity. Ever since ancient times, when a person was just beginning to learn all the possibilities of using wood, he was already associated with this material in all its forms and forms. The growth and development of mankind was closely intertwined with the possibility of developing the art of woodworking and the growth of opportunities for using wood.

Already at the beginning of time, wood was used mainly as a material for building housing, making tools, weapons, utensils and other items necessary for life. With the development of mankind, wood began to be used to create luxury items and decorations. Rafts and all kinds of ships began to be built. This greatly accelerated the development of new lands.

With the growth of skill and knowledge about the properties of wood, this material has become almost everywhere one of the main materials used in all areas of human activity. Those who showed talent when working with wood became respected artisans and artisans. To unite and protect their interests, workshops and guilds of joiners and carpenters were created. To preserve the acquired skills and knowledge, they began to recruit students and apprentices for training. Experience and skill began to be passed down from generation to generation.

Among the masters of woodworking, their specialists began to stand out, each with their own tools, projects and secrets of woodworking. Here are just a few of them:

Wheel master - a carpenter for the manufacture of wooden wheels and spokes.
Bondar is a craftsman who makes barrels, tubs and other assembled utensils.
A wood carver is almost an artist who can create a masterpiece from a piece of wood with a chisel.

wood turner - lathe and cutters, that's all the master needs to make round and symmetrical products, such as legs for chairs and tables, candlesticks, balusters, chiseled wooden utensils.
A carpenter is a woodworker. He must know everything about the tree and be able to make everything that a person needs for living from it.
Cabinetmaker - expensive furniture was made mainly of mahogany, so furniture makers began to be called cabinetmakers.
Shipbuilder - earlier all ships were built of wood, but even now this profession is needed - boats, boats and yachts are sometimes built from wood.
Parquet flooring - creates wooden floors from stacked parquet, combining colors and textures of different types of wood.

To work, a carpenter needs a board; you can buy it or cut it yourself.

can be sawed makeshift sawmills more or less like this

or more professionally with modern sawmills

In our time, some of these professions have become rare, but they can never completely disappear. Although steel, plastic, concrete and other materials have largely replaced wood, a person will never completely part with a tree. Wood products always look livelier, warmer and more attractive to us. No one will put a plastic sculpture in a museum, but a wooden sculpture exists independently as an art form.
Wood is used in many areas of our life, including residential and industrial construction, furniture manufacturing. Much application wooden products caused not only by practical considerations, but mainly by pleasure, appearance, traditions of our society and pride in the beauty of our home.
For many, even today, working with wood provides a livelihood. But more and more people are engaged in various types of woodwork during their holidays, it brings them joy and pleasure, it becomes a rest for the soul, their useful hobby.

Like this!!!

it's also made of wood

In addition to this, in our time, tools, technologies and devices have reached a new level of development, have become more sophisticated. A novice joiner or carpenter will be amazed by the huge selection of tools and fixtures for their business.
An experienced carpenter recognizes that his craftsmanship is the result of many years of experience and long training. Knowledge and experience are needed in order to create a beautiful box, a table decorated with carvings, to build a beautiful house.
However, not knowing where to start a project, what to focus on, discourages many beginner carpenters and carpenters, they quickly lose interest and give up this business, believing that it is not for them. On the other hand, starting a project that is too complex with a tool that is not quite suitable, the novice master comes to the same conclusion - this is not his business and leaves for another type of activity.
Fortunately, the tips and tricks of an experienced woodworker will help the aspiring carpenter in his endeavors. In order to provide ourselves with comprehensive knowledge of woodworking, we must work hard, consult with specialists, learn from them the intricacies of working with wood, take everything useful from their many years of experience.

you can watch a movie how to make a door

There will be a board, you can do carpentry, but you need to saw it somehow

You need to start with the main types of woodworking, using the main types of tools. Don't start with too complex projects. From simple to complex - this should be your rule. Strong knowledge of different types of wood, the ability to work with the main types of tools, compliance with all safety rules - all this will lead you to success in this business.

Most of my acquaintances in the past were carpenters, then they began to make beehives.

and engage in beekeeping.

Weekends

• Material included: 3 m of wooden board (width of your choice 200,250,300) and 7 m of linear board + expendable materials. Small product sizes:from the shield - up to W0.5 x V0.6 x D0.3;from the board - the size of an ordinary chair.
• Possibility of passes: no
• Format: intensive Sat, Sun + Sat, Sun = 2 weekends = 54 ac. hours + 46 academic hours free schedule on weekdays
• Study period: 4 days (54 academic hours) according to the schedule. At the end of the course, the course is automatically considered completed.
• Training time: Sat and Sun from 9.30 to 19.30

Weekdays

• Material Included: same as weekend
• Possibility of passes: yes, in agreement with the teacher
• Format: free personal schedule on weekdays = 100 ac.h.
• Study period: up to 1.5 months on the main part (54 academic hours) from the day of the first lesson. After this period, the course is automatically considered completed.
• Training time: on weekdays according to a free schedule from 12.00 to 20-30

Learn more about weekday and weekend schedules

* At the end of this period, the course is automatically considered completed!

** Classes on Bonus hours can be started strictly by appointment through the manager.

Materials and consumables ( glue, sandpaper, screws, dowels, paint, etc.) the product of bonus watches is not included in the price and is purchased by the student separately (from us or in any store)!

Attention! The course participant must:

• unconditionally observe safety precautions (the course includes a detailed instruction on safety and the signing of relevant documents)
• follow the instructions of teachers
• take care of the instrument (broken - bring a new one!)

pick up your products (materials, things, etc.) on the day of completion of the course

(in extreme cases, the participant can pick up the manufactured products no later than 7-14 days after the completion of the course in agreement with the Master, indicating the name, phone number and date of the course). Then the products are sent to the scrap, or the participant pays for a subscription to)

Book your seats in advance! Often there are no places already 1-2 weeks before the start of the basic carpentry course.

Workshop arrangement
As a rule, a carpenter's home workshop is organized in a small area, so it is necessary to install equipment in it rationally, using the space to the maximum.
Consider one of the ways to place machines, tools and furniture up to the ceiling of a carpentry workshop. Here most often come from the frequency of use of tools and materials.
For example, painting equipment is installed on top, and boxes with nails, screws and other small things are placed on the lower shelves. Equipping the workshop, do not forget to make room for various rails and bars. But most importantly, you need to properly position the tools that are most often used. It is advisable for them to make a small compartment and fix them there, they should also hang so that they can be easily removed.
The workshop may look like a large closet, it is desirable that it be locked. Dimensions are determined by the possibilities of the premises and the conditions of the workpiece being made.
Joinery connections that every carpenter should know
Boards connect different ways, resulting in the correct form of various objects. You can connect with screws and self-tapping screws, but holes appear from them, and they must be camouflaged. Therefore, if the product will not be painted in the future, or if the material is glued, then it is better to make joints that do not damage the surfaces.
For this, joints on dowels are suitable, when holes are made for the dowel in the two connected parts. The distance between the holes is calculated in advance. A dowel is installed in the bearing part or in the connection and fixed with glue. Then, the prepared parts are treated with glue and pressed together. If the dowel enters with difficulty, it is carefully knocked out with a hammer, and in order not to damage the surface, a board is placed.
Need to know! If dowels are initially made to a certain length, then the holes must be drilled clearly to this depth, up to a millimeter.
Another option for connecting on open spikes is the entry of the spikes of one part into the lugs of the other. This connection is made at the back corners of the drawers, in the shelves, where the spikes do not interfere. The spikes are invisible from the front, as they enter the end of the board so that a layer of wood covers them from above. The spikes make sure that the connection is in the form of a strong wedge. This type of clutch is easier to make than dovetail studs, where the profile looks like a trapezoid.
To gouge the dovetail with a chisel, the boards are fastened with a clamp to the table. In order for the edges to turn out to be of better quality, the bar is hollowed out to half, and then turned over and finished off on the reverse side through and through. Naturally, for a clear connection, the places are carefully marked in advance.

Recommendations for a novice carpenter: natural "chemistry" for carpentry
There are recipes that have been tested by carpentry masters since ancient times. These recipes have not lost their value today, they are still used in the creation of various high-quality things from wood. All the recommendations below are aimed at ensuring that you can effectively join the carpentry yourself, based on the experience of carpenters proven over the centuries.

Tip 1. Paraffin for carpenter
Now in vogue wooden rings for curtains on the rods. In order for the rings to move along the bar without difficulty, it is rubbed with paraffin. The same tool is used if the drawers do not slide in well, they do not open well. Naturally, paraffin can be used in certain areas, and in some places, in case of poor slip, you need to carefully walk or sandpaper.

Tip 2. Vinegar solution. Vegetable oil.
The surface of the furniture must be wiped more often with a solution of vinegar, this gives freshness, and if you rub the wooden parts with a solution of vegetable oil and vinegar in equal proportions, small scratches will disappear.
If any point, for example, an ax, is treated with paraffin, then it is easier to work with such tools (the point enters the wood softer). But working with a saw will become noticeably easier if you rub its blade with lard or vegetable oil.

Templates, mandrel, stop, straightedge, jig - these and other terms refer to a device used to hold or guide a workpiece, or to hold or guide a tool when it is often used in repetitive operations. Woodworking becomes an art when you start making your own patterns.

By acquiring basic carpentry skills in measuring, marking, sawing, working with a chisel and chisel, planing, and so on, and learning how to join a carpentry the first time, you will quickly notice that a significant part of the carpentry work is either based on repetitive operations (for example, making the same parts) , or is associated with “one-time” problems that are difficult to solve with standard methods and tools.

Behind the art of pattern making is the ability to improvise, and for many experienced woodworkers this often means moving away from the beaten track of accepted doctrines towards a "parallel" mindset of using all available options.

Templates can range from simple devices to very complex devices. Usually they are the product of the mental work of the individual and are very simple solutions to specific problems.

This can include the use of nails and pins, duct tape and hot glue (as an extra hand), scraps of plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, as well as quick curing materials such as automotive putty. Certain hand and power tools require templates to perform certain tasks or to speed them up.

Carpentry Basics

The profession of a carpenter, it should be noted, appeared a long time ago, very long before our birth. It developed unhindered in a favorable climate, among settlements spread out in forest areas. And together with individual representatives of the profession, carpentry skills as a whole were also formed.

By the way, we competently declare to you: any art has a habit of starting somewhere. Little things usually. For example, peel a fallen log from the bark so that it is more comfortable to sit on it. We assume that this is how carpentry arose - from the ennoblement of an ordinary log in front of a fire burning in a clearing. We still, without suspecting it, are doing the same on picnics and on country walks in order to enjoy and comfortably sit and eat barbecue.

Over time, apparently, they began to equip the general situation in the dwelling. Stylish clubs, all sorts of tables there according to the ancient fashion, some kind of lockers and so on.

Although, nowadays, some archaeologists believe that for some reason they became a truly constructive work of carpentry skill of our distant ancestors from those time immemorial. Most likely, this object in itself had some very symbolic meaning. The stairs were not used in a trivial way - to move from one room to another, to move from level to level. It was a unique and divine (not for nothing that stairs are so popular in temple compositions) way up, to heaven, to the gods! And the more steps, the closer, therefore, the owner of the premises was located to the throne of the Creator.
However, there is another, simplified version of the explanation of the special love of the ancients for the stairs. Probably, after the appearance of benches, people needed to climb up on them - maybe the ancient masters did not always correctly calculate the height of a seated human body, or there were giant snowmen - children came to visit them. However, the fact remains that in ancient excavations, along with elementary furnishings, it is these first works of carpentry that are often found.

It was only later, apparently, that the benches began to turn into tables, from which, naturally, the very name of the profession came from in Russian - carpenter.

Then, of course, there were stools designed for one person sitting instead of multi-seat benches, full-weight beds with carved legs and a headboard, chests for storing overwork, where merchants could sit and lie down while eating, at the same time guarding their treasures. And only selected citizens, so to speak, marked by God's finger, enjoyed the benefits of individualism, sitting on a chair-throne.

By the way, the ancient Romans of a higher family enjoyed the privilege of sitting in a chair - a special slave carried behind them a special comfortable bench, on which a citizen sat down as soon as he felt the slightest fatigue. Similar privileges relied on persons of royal-royal bloodlines. So, behind the Russian tsar, a courtyard man wore a red chair, which was used as a traveling throne: a high-ranking person has no moral right not to stand out from the crowd!

The geographical location of Russia predetermined the love of the people for the tree. Rusichi initially built settlements in wooded areas, and even in the lowlands of the rivers, forest vegetation was certainly present. Probably, this is why it happened that almost all household utensils among the villagers were made of wood: furniture, bowls, spoons, tuesas, boxes and even shoes - bast shoes - were woven from lime bast. There was plenty of material around, and they made it willingly and with love.

In ancient times, men were ashamed not to be able to make wooden crafts for domestic use. This is both financially beneficial, and happened faster than going to buy the necessary little thing in a neighboring graying. Therefore, almost the entire adult male (and growing up, in the guise of boys, too) Russian population strove to master carpentry skills as best as possible. For the art of woodworking was considered honorable.

And it turned out in such a way that, in general, it doesn’t even matter how much a person knew the profession: very bad, mediocre, or virtuoso good, which was far from being possible for many. The main thing is participation. And then, everyone who started working on wood strove to do his plan in the best possible way, in order to look most advantageous in the eyes of neighbors and friends, so that they would say about him: a craftsman! And, the more a person had to create wooden products, the more elegant, time after time they became.

We will try on the pages of our site to help you master carpentry skills in the shortest period of time. You can easily restore and even create furniture with my own hands, armed with those tools and materials that are necessary in the work of a real carpenter. However, we categorically warn you: in order to start any business, you must have determination and desire. And then a positive result is guaranteed!

Of course, it is quite difficult to achieve top-class professionalism in a short time. For example, having studied our site, you are unlikely to be able to gracefully carve a life-size portrait of your loved one from wood the first time, as some especially skilled carpenters can do. (They still can’t make something else! A gifted carpenter can easily cut out not only household items, but even a tie or some details of women’s underwear: they themselves saw wooden women’s panties neatly hung on a wooden carnation. Charming! It’s a pity not a single lady failed to wear).

However, regular workshops in the carpentry workshop will allow you to acquire the necessary skill, with which experience will come. And then, we are sure, you will be able to amaze the imagination of friends and relatives with works of carpentry art created by your own hands!

Good luck with your carpentry skills!

Joiner's tool

Now it's time to get the tool. Estimate your material capabilities, examine the existing tool through the eyes of a novice carpenter. In every house there is a hammer, screwdriver, awl, scissors. See if they are correct. The hammer, of course, does not hold well on a handle that is too short, it dangles on it, and blows often fall not on the nail head, but on the fingers.

There are several ways to fasten the handle with wooden and metal wedges, wire, and tin (Fig. 1).

The oval hole in the hammer is usually made conical, it expands to the outside and narrows towards the handle. The birch handle is turned or cut out into a cone too. The difference in the cross section of the handle is 10-15 mm with a length of 300 mm. The hammer is put on the thinner end so that it fits snugly into the oval hole. In this case, gaps form between the metal and wood. The easiest way is to fix the hammer with wedges made of solid beech or birch wood: one wedge is driven into the end of the handle along the longitudinal axis, two narrow ones - along the transverse one.

A more reliable fastening is provided by a metal wedge made of steel 3-4 mm thick with three feathers, the ends of which are sharpened, as shown in the figure. When driving such a wedge, the feathers diverge into different sides and firmly wedge the handle. Previously, in its end, notches with a depth of 3-4 mm are made with a chisel or screwdriver, then the wedge will not go to the side.

Hammer fastening methods: 1 - wooden wedge; 2 - metal wedge; 3 - fastening with wooden wedges; 4- fastening with a metal wedge
Similarly, they strengthen the ax on a wooden ax handle.

There is also a screwdriver in the house. To work one screwdriver is not enough, you will need at least two or three. But first take a look at the slot in the head of the screw, it is not rectangular, but trapezoidal. This is the shape of the tip of the screwdriver, the planes and edges must be sharpened with a file so that they tightly fill the entire slot of the screw. In this case, the side edges of the screwdriver should be somewhat beveled to ensure the greatest effort when driving screws (you have to unscrew less often).

A straight, not a shoe, awl, sharpened in the form of a polyhedron, will come in handy. It is not difficult to make it from a piece of thick steel wire. Before sharpening, one end of the wire can be released by heating and slow cooling. Steel should be hardened in this way: heat the end of the awl on a gas burner until the metal brightens, then quickly dip it into the liquid. Since different cooling compositions are used for steel of different grades, then at home it may be necessary to repeat the hardening process, dipping the red-hot tip of the awl alternately into clean water, acidified with vinegar, sunflower oil, drying oil, into a soapy solution. The degree of heating should also be varied. The quality of hardening is easy to check with a file or a hacksaw blade for metal. If the metal is difficult to tool, then the steel is hardened.

Scissors, pencils and colored pencils, a ruler can also be found in any home.

Now about the tool that you need to purchase in a store or make yourself.

A set of tools for carpentry and related work can be divided into two groups in order of configuration: a) the most necessary for the first-priority work of a novice carpenter; b) necessary for more complex cabinetry and special work. Half of what will be listed can be done by yourself, but not immediately, as this requires some skills in precise sawing, proper planing, the ability to connect wooden parts in different ways, use a drill or a brace.

So, the following tool is needed at first.

Saws. A hacksaw with a short but wide blade for cross and longitudinal sawing is preferable. In such a blade, relatively small teeth 4-6 mm high have the shape of an isosceles or equilateral triangle. Rip saw blades have forward-inclined teeth; they cut wood fibers when moving forward, away from themselves, and on the reverse they only throw out sawdust. The traditional bow joiner's saw is too bulky, inconvenient to work in a cramped room. A bow saw with a narrow blade (width no more than 10 mm) and fine teeth up to 4 mm high can be useful for curved sawing. But if it is necessary to make such cuts on plywood or planks up to 10 mm thick, an ordinary jigsaw will completely replace the circular bow saw. It will also serve instead of a fine-toothed saw for fine work, as well as a hacksaw. To do this, you need to have files for wood and metal.

Plane. There are many types of this tool under the general name "plows": sherhebel with an oval blade of a piece of iron for rough planing of lumber; single planer for rough planing; a planer with a double piece of iron, or “twin”, as cabinetmakers affectionately call it, for fine planing, removing even and thin chips; jointer for leveling large surfaces (it differs from a double planer only in the length and massiveness of the wooden block); folds, fillets, grooving, grooves and other plows for profile planing. A novice carpenter needs only one double planer, since he will most often have to deal with blanks already planed in rough form.

Chisels. They differ in the width of the piece of iron and the shape of the cutting part. They are used for cutting wood, cutting decorative plywood, making sockets for spike joints. Chisels with a semicircular cutter are used for sampling gutters, as well as for. For the first time, two chisels with straight blades 4-6 and 15-20 mm wide are enough.

Marking tool. These are, first of all, a carpenter's square, a ruler, a thickness gauge for applying straight parallel lines to the workpiece, a compass, a piece of paper for marking workpieces at an angle of 45 ° and a bevel for marking at other angles. At first, they can be replaced by a student's square, ruler and compass. In the future, all these tools are easy to do yourself.

Vice. Any medium-sized locksmith vise is suitable, but special vise is more convenient. They are on sale, they are called carpentry. Such vices are universal, it is convenient to fix workpieces in them for longitudinal and transverse sawing, planing, drilling, chiselling and other types of work both with wood and with other materials (metal, hardboard, plastic, etc.).

Oilcloth. For the preparation of casein glue, which is now widespread, special dishes are not required. But for the preparation of traditional carpentry glue, skin or bone glue, you need an oilcloth - a steam bath. It will take two tin bank(! Larger and smaller sizes. There are no ready-made glue bottles for sale.

Clamps. This is the name of devices for tightening and pressing parts connected with spikes, glue - clamps, clamps, presses. Commercially available metal clamps are not suitable for all jobs. Wooden ones with a metal bolt can be made by yourself. At first, as a compression, you can use, for example, a meat grinder screw, metalwork or. There are more simple ways tightening parts with a piece of rubber, twine and wooden wedges.

Bar and donkey. You can not work with a blunt tool. For sharpening planer glands and chisels, a bar of carborundum or emery is suitable. But for editing, a touchstone is needed - a bar with very small, dusty grains. The most convenient is a mechanical grindstone with a manual drive and a round stone. There are household electric sharpeners on sale, which can simultaneously serve as a drilling and grinding machine.

Files. A triangular personal file is required for sharpening and straightening saws. Before sharpening, the teeth of the saws are bred using a special device called wiring. It can be replaced by a wide screwdriver, pliers, pliers. In the future, it will be necessary to acquire a set of files: a velvet file is useful for deburring, flat, square, round, as well as a rasp - a file with a large notch - for processing curved wooden parts, grinding ends.

Drilling tool. Pure carpentry is a brace with a set of so-called feather and other drills for drilling round holes in wood and making oval holes. But it is advisable to purchase a small or medium-sized drill. It is useful not only for woodworking, but also for metal, plastic and other hard materials.

At first, you can do without a drill and a brace. In a piece of wood, a hole of any shape can be made with an awl, chisel, screwdriver, round file.

Mounting tool. Large and small screwdrivers, straight awl, wire cutters, pliers, pliers. The last three tools can be replaced with one - pliers.

Cycle. Steel plate, reinforced in a wooden block, it is used for smoothing, cleaning wooden surfaces.

Hammers. It is desirable to have two: one weighing up to 300 g and the second is very light, the so-called watch hammer.

glass cutter The simplest and inexpensive roller glass cutter is quite suitable; it can cut glass of any thickness. Glaziers-installers of display (mirror) glasses up to 10 mm thick prefer a steel glass cutter to an expensive diamond one.

In the future, it will be necessary to purchase metal for puttying surfaces before painting, but for now it can be replaced by a thin table knife. An electric soldering iron, a core for marking metal before drilling will come in handy (you can mark a hole in a tree for drilling with an awl or a nail). For work in the countryside, a small hatchet, such as a tourist hatchet, is very useful. You yourself have to make a device for transverse sawing of blanks at an angle of 45 ° - a miter box, as well as a bottom - for processing the ends of bars and boards. Of the plows for this purpose, a planer will be more convenient than a semi-joiner. Two chisels will not be enough; semicircular, oval ones will be required. Very narrow chisels up to 4 mm wide may be required, which are not commercially available, but can be made from a steel bar of the appropriate diameter.

For the most accurate work, a backing saw is useful - this is a hacksaw, the top of the blade of which is edged for rigidity with a steel profile backing of a U-shaped section.

An electrified tool can be considered superfluous in a tiny home workshop ( Circular Saw, planer, drill), their use will cause concern to neighbors. You can do without large chisels, they will be completely replaced by chisels. A mallet is not needed - a large wooden hammer, it is recommended in carpentry manuals for the reasons that the wooden handles of chisels and chisels are quickly destroyed by blows with a metal hammer. However, experience shows that a birch chisel handle lasts several years, and a new one can be made in just half an hour.

A wooden carpentry meter is convenient for working with large workpieces, and for most carpentry work it is enough to have a metal or wooden ruler 500 mm long.

Curly, profiled wood parts are rarely used in modern furniture; they are replaced with molded plastic ones. Consequently, the corresponding plows - mouldings, selections, etc. - are not at all necessary.

In stores, carpentry tools are sold unsharpened. Correctly sharpening a saw with a file, and a planer piece of iron or a chisel on a bar and a whetstone is not at all an easy task. An incorrectly divorced and sharpened hacksaw when sawing will necessarily go to the right or left of the risk of the intended cut, even the cross cut of a small bar will not be perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. An improperly sharpened chisel is difficult to make even cuts of wood. It is absolutely impossible to cut decorative plywood with a blunt tool, cut ordinary plywood, process the ends of a tree.

Before sharpening the saw, it is necessary to spread the teeth of the blade so that during sawing it does not stick in the cut, which must necessarily be wider than the thickness of the blade. For blades with large teeth (two-handed saws used to cut firewood), for working with raw wood, the divorce is twice the thickness of the blade, for the rest of the saws it is about one and a half thickness.

To spread the saw means to deflect the tops of the teeth away from the plane of the blade: even teeth in one direction, odd teeth in the other. For this, wiring is used - a steel plate with shallow, slightly more than the height of the teeth, slots, the width of which is by how many tenths of a millimeter more than the thickness of the web. The wiring is simple with the help of pliers: clamping the teeth about two-thirds of the height from the base, with a smooth movement of the tool they are bent one after the other in different directions. Thus, half of the teeth will be bent to the right, half to the left.

The correctness of the wiring can be checked if you look along the canvas: not a single tooth should protrude from the general row. If protruding tooth tips are visible, they should be aligned. To do this, the saw blade is pulled between two metal plates, slightly clamped in a vise. The saw is bred every two to three years, that is, after four to six sharpenings.

After wiring, the saw must be sharpened with a triangular file. The tooth of the blade for mixed sawing has two cutting edges - front and back, forming a sharp top, which in shape is a trihedral cutter. Sharpening saws for transverse sawing is done obliquely, at an angle of 45-60 °, with respect to the side surface of the blade (Fig. 2). The teeth of such a saw work when moving in both directions. To get an even row of teeth, the file should be pressed only when moving away from you, when moving in the opposite direction, it must be lifted.

Saw teeth: 1 - top; 2 - base; 3 - cutting edges The number of movements and the force of pressure for each tooth should be the same, usually two or three movements are sufficient.

Burrs formed when working with a file with a large notch are removed with a velvet triangular file. Periodically sharpening should be repeated, using files with a fine notch. From repeated sharpening, the shape and height of the teeth change, then the blade is leveled by grinding the tops of the protruding teeth with a file fixed in a wooden block. After that, wiring and sharpening again follow.

Sawing. Whoever has not seen a man with a saw in his right hand, a carpenter or a joiner, is all the same. What, it seems, is simpler: he pressed the bar to the stop, threw up a hacksaw over it, washed it down with two or three short, light movements, and then ripped the bar in half in a few seconds. Try to do this, and then look at the end of the cut bar, check if all its planes make a right angle with the end. Most likely it will turn out that the saw blade has led to the side, there are no right four corners, and in the place where it was washed down (beginning of sawing) and on the opposite edge, the wood fibers are damaged, smooth surfaces did not work out.

You have theoretically well studied the rules of sawing, the blade is sharpened, the teeth make up two ideal lines. Now the task is to cut a board 500 mm long and 12-15 mm thick into two equal strips. The cutting line is drawn on both sides with a sharpened pencil or thicknesser, the plank is firmly clamped in a vertical position in a vice. Sawed? Turn both halves over and check the width of each on the opposite side with a ruler. How accurate was the cut? If the maximum difference in the width of the planks is 1.5-2 mm, then consider yourself already able to use a saw, although for precision cabinetry, the maximum deviation from the marks should not exceed 0.5 mm when sawing along, and only 0.2-2 across. 0.3 mm.

It's all about the skill of working with a saw, just like any other cutting tool, acquired only by practice. Therefore, before sawing the only available workpiece into pieces according to the dimensions specified by the drawing, be sure to practice on an unnecessary piece of wood, check yourself and the tool.

Yet experienced carpenters can give some general advice. It is not recommended to cut without preliminary marking with a square and thickness gauge. Cabinetmakers, before cross-cutting, make markings not with a sharp pencil, not with an awl, as carpenters and whitewashers do, but with a sharp chisel blade. In this case, an even, shallow triangular slit is formed. On the surface of the wood, the chisel, cutting the fibers across, leaves a risk half a millimeter wide. This risk is transferred with a square and a pencil to the other three sides of the board or bar. Now the task is to ensure that after cutting, half of the risk (the base of the inverted triangle) is not touched by the saw teeth. This will ensure high cutting accuracy, which is necessary in the manufacture of spikes and lugs for a clean connection of individual parts of the product without gaps and crevices.

In the place of cutting on the reverse side of the workpiece, the teeth of the saw form burrs, sometimes chips of wood. This is inevitable when working with any saw, even a jigsaw. Marking with a chisel prevents the formation of burrs and chips, at least on one (front) side of the workpiece. At the end of sawing, the sagging end of the workpiece must be held with the left hand to prevent chipping of the wood.

It is very important to start sawing correctly: with short movements towards yourself, you should make a shallow cut on the edge of the workpiece - a groove 6-8 mm deep - holding the blade with the thumb of your left hand above the teeth so that the saw slides along the nail or the second joint of the finger. Pressing the teeth on the wood is completely unnecessary, just one weight of the hacksaw is enough. Otherwise, the blade may jump out of the cut and injure your hand, at best, the teeth will tear the fibers of the tree. The inclination of the web to the horizontal plane should be approximately 20°, which also prevents chipping.

miter box
We should not forget about the heterogeneous structure of wood, when approaching a knot, the canvas will tend to bypass a harder place, in this case the sawing speed will slow down, which is quite natural even for wood processing on machine tools.

During ripping, a wooden wedge can be inserted into the kerf to reduce friction. If the saw squeaks, vibrating, which happens when working with hard or very resinous wood, then you should rub the blade with soap or paraffin.

It facilitates sawing at an angle using the so-called miter box - a tray of three boards (Fig. 3), which must be done by yourself, they are not on sale. The side boards must be strictly parallel, they are cut at an angle of 45 °, the ends are sawn at a right angle. The workpiece to be processed is inserted into the chute, pressed with the left hand against back wall, the saw blade is inserted into the slot. At the same time, sawing can be done without marking the workpiece around the entire perimeter, there are enough risks on one upper edge. It is only necessary to ensure that the mark coincides with the slot in the miter box.
Occasionally there is a need to cut at an angle of 30 °, 60 °, for this, the corresponding slots can be made in the same device.

In the process of sawing, sawdust is formed, as a rule, a fine fraction. Do not throw away this "scrap": sawdust will come in handy for finishing cabinetry as a filler for putty. It is better to collect them in two or three small boxes, but according to the types of wood, they are separately light, red, brown. You will not regret when you start inlaying or when cracks appear in the parquet floor.

Jigsaw sawing techniques look somewhat different. When cutting a pattern on plywood, the jigsaw is held with the right hand under the plywood sheet so that the handle is in a vertical position, and the shackle of the machine rests on the hand between the hand and the elbow. For transverse sawing of thin laths, longitudinal sawing of boards with a thickness of 5-8 mm, as well as cutting plywood, you can work with a jigsaw in the same way as with a hacksaw. In this case, the jigsaw blade must be installed in the machine with the teeth tilted away from you. The saw will work when moving forward as opposed to moving from top to bottom in the process of sawing patterns. In thin boards and plywood, it is convenient to cut spikes and holes (eyes) for them with a jigsaw.

When cutting plywood, it must be strengthened in a vice with the front side towards you so that burrs and chips do not form on it.

The jigsaw is often used to cut thermoplastic plastic, which heats up easily from friction, making sawing difficult or impossible. Jamming can be prevented by lubricating the kerf line with machine oil. To work with a jigsaw, files are suitable for both wood and metal.

Iron sharpening. The same important place in woodworking after sawing is planing. It is easier to sharpen the iron of a planer or chisel than to open and sharpen a saw. To do this, you need to have two bars: one emery or coarse-grained sand for rough sharpening, the second - a fine-grained whetstone for dressing, that is, for removing burrs from the blade. The width of the bar should slightly exceed the width of the piece of iron being sharpened, while the touchstone can be narrow.

The chisel has a bevel to the cutting part, called a chamfer, its angle with respect to the plane of the chisel can vary from 20 to 40 °. A piece of iron with a smaller sharpening angle cuts wood easier and cleaner, especially hardwoods, but quickly dulls. In order to avoid chipping of the blade during transverse cutting of wood fibers (for example, using a chisel instead of a chisel), it is advisable to sharpen the piece of iron at an angle of more than 25-30 °.

When sharpening, the chisel is held with the right hand by the handle, and with the fingers of the left, the piece of iron is pressed against the bar
Sharpening a piece of iron on a flat bar: 1; 2 - correct; 3 - wrong; on a round stone: 4 - after sharpening; 5 - after straightening on the touchstone
the entire plane of the chamfer and rhythmic longitudinal movements are driven along the plane of the bar moistened with water. Sharpening is carried out until burrs form on the back of the smooth side of the piece of iron, they are easy to feel if you run your finger across the blade. Periodically, both the bar and the piece of iron should be moistened with water, washing away particles of abrasive and metal. During sharpening, the piece of iron must be held at the same angle to the surface of the bar. Usually, if the tool is not running, this operation takes only 4-5 minutes (Fig. 4).

The sharpening geometry is checked with a wooden square. The blade of a piece of iron planer or chisel should be straight. A slight (up to 0.2-0.5 mm) rounding of the blade at the ends is allowed, but in no case should there be a hollow in the middle. The angle between the blade line and the edges of the iron is straight. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that some pieces of iron are made somewhat narrower in width towards the tail section, then the square is alternately applied on both sides.

After sharpening on the chamfer with a simple eye, shallow scratches formed on the metal by the grains of the bar are visible. Now the piece of iron must be directed, sharpened, deburred. This is done on a donkey. Editing is carried out not by longitudinal, but by alternately circular and longitudinal movements of the piece of iron on the surface of the touchstone moistened with water as follows.

First, three or four sliding circular movements with the back of the piece of iron along the touchstone, their surfaces should fit snugly against each other, the editing angle will be zero. There will be light scratches from burrs on the whetstone. In this case, the burrs themselves do not grind, but only bend towards the chamfer.

Then the piece of iron is again moistened with water, turned upside down and made five or six transverse sliding movements, as when sharpening. The pressure in both cases should be weak. Alternate editing is repeated several times.

Now look at the bevel under oblique light, its surface becomes smooth, shiny, scratches disappear. Run your finger across the blade on both sides: you can see that the burrs are grinding down. Editing can be considered complete when the blade along its entire length becomes smooth, with a mirror finish, and burrs will not be felt at all when lightly touched with a finger. This operation usually takes 2-3 minutes.

Similarly, sharpening and editing of planer and jointer pieces of iron is carried out.

Of great importance is the position of the hands and fingers, it is different in the process of sharpening and straightening. In the first case, the piece of iron is held by the tail with the right palm, and with two fingers of the left hand, the chamfer is pressed against the bar. In the second case, when the burrs are removed (bend down) from the back side, the piece of iron is slightly pressed against the whetstone with four fingers of the left hand, and with the right hand they only hold the tail part of the planer piece of iron or the handle of the chisel.

The bar and the whetstone do not hold well on the surface of the workbench during work, they slide and fidget. This inconvenience can be easily eliminated by placing a thick sheet of wet paper or pieces of thin rubber around the edges under the bar. You can strengthen the bar in a vise, but it is easy to split it. It is better to fix the bar in a wooden block.

To do this, take a piece of wood 40-60 mm longer than the bar, and 20 mm in height and width. Put a bar or a whetstone on it, draw a contour with a pencil, along which, using a sharp chisel, make indentations. Make deep cuts along the longitudinal lines. It is difficult to cut wood across the fibers; It is more convenient to work with a wide chisel. Install it strictly vertically. Then turn the chisel over with a chamfer away from you, set it at a slight angle and chip the wood with light hammer blows (Fig. 5). And so around the perimeter.

The sequence of operations (indicated by numbers) for gouging recesses (nests) The depth of the recess with a bar thickness of 20-25 mm should be 7-8 mm. Its bottom must be cleaned, leveled with a sharp chisel so that the formed sides are of the same height. Now put the bar into the block, moisten it slightly. After the first use of the gap, the slurry formed during the sharpening of the tool will fill the gap, the bar will be firmly held in the shoe. It is convenient to clamp it in a vice, it is convenient for them to sharpen an ax, to edit a scythe.

To sharpen a planer iron on a block, you need to make at least 100 strokes. It is difficult all this time to keep it at one angle to the plane of the bar.

The most convenient for sharpening a cutting tool is a mechanical sharpener with a round stone with a diameter of 100-120 mm and preferably of the greatest thickness. A manual sharpener greatly facilitates work, saves time spent on sharpening tools. Sharpening techniques are different here, the cutting angle is also formed differently.

Usually a mechanical sharpener has a device for setting the piece of iron at the required angle and holding it in this position. If it is not there, then the piece of iron is held with the left hand in such a position that the planes of the chamfer and the stone coincide, and the back end rests on the table. On the workbench, to which the sharpener is screwed, you can mark the position of the piece of iron being sharpened with a pencil risk or make an emphasis using a clamp.

The tool is sharpened on the sharpener without wetting the stone with water, so you need to make sure that the blade does not heat up too much, until the metal darkens, otherwise the steel can be released and re-hardening will be required. Sparks scattered during a strong rotation of the stone testify to the high quality of tool steel and its good hardening.

The end of sharpening will again be indicated by the appearance of burrs on the cutting edge. Editing is carried out on an ordinary touchstone in the manner already described. But it should be noted that the chamfer is no longer a flat plane, it is concave according to the diameter of the circle. During dressing on the whetstone, only the upper and lower faces will be ground to a mirror finish. This reduces the friction of the bevel when cutting wood. In addition, it is easy to increase the angle of sharpening by changing its inclination in the process of editing on the whetstone. Editing a piece of iron sharpened in this way can be repeated several times without pre-treatment on a grinder.

Cabinetmakers, before starting to work with decorative plywood or hardwood, when a special cleanness of cut is required, resort to this technique. The piece of iron directed on the touchstone is placed with a point on a knot in the board, the handle is hit with a hammer, and then the blade is again even more accurately corrected on the touchstone.

In this way, the finest burrs, which can only be seen under a strong magnifying glass, are detected and ground off.

In Moscow and in many other cities there are workshops that accept orders from the population for sharpening various tools, including carpentry:
Planing. The main tool for planing is a planer with a double iron, it can remain for a long time the only plow in the workshop of a home carpenter, its design is so perfect, tested by many generations of carpenters. A planer with a wooden block is preferable to a metal one, which requires special skills to work with.

The planer consists of a rectangular block, it is better if it is glued together from two or three plates of wood of different species to prevent deformation of the block, especially its sole. The most suitable wood is hornbeam, ash, maple, birch, beech. In the center of the block, a through hole (notch) is made for a piece of iron, consisting of three parts: a cutter (lower piece of iron), a humpback (upper) and a short screw that fastens both pieces of iron in a certain position.

Planer: 1 - three-layer block; 2 - letok; 3 - lower piece of iron; 4 - hunchback; 5 - screw; 6 - blade; 7 - mouth; 8 - horn; 9 - boss; 10 - inserts For cleaner planing, the humpback is set so that its lower edge does not reach the cutter blade by 1.5-2 mm, but fits snugly in this place to the lower piece of iron.

If a gap is visible between the glands when viewed against the light, then it must be eliminated by grinding the edge of the humpback with a file or on a flat bar. The only purpose of the humpback is to break the chips as close to the sole of the planer as possible and direct them up the notch.

With an increase in the distance between the edges of the pieces of iron, planing becomes easier, the work goes faster, the cutter removes thicker chips, thus turning into a single planer. But it is difficult to obtain a smooth surface, especially on material with knots and other defects.

The double piece of iron is held in the notch by a wooden blade made of wood that is sufficiently resistant to hammer blows. The notch tapers downward and forms a hole (mouth) 6-10 mm wide in the sole. The narrower the mouth, the cleaner the planing. An increase in its width leads to the fact that planing becomes easier, the chips do not get stuck in the notch, but it is more difficult to obtain a clean surface on the workpiece.

To hold the planer with the left hand, a horn is used, right palm when planing rests against the back of the block and the boss.

The sole of the planer is made of the densest wood, which is well resistant to wear when sliding. When planing uneven surfaces, with knots and snags, the greatest wear of the sole occurs in two places: in front of and in front of the edge of the cutter. Here, even chipped wood of the sole is possible. When wear has just begun, thin plates of hardwood are cut into these places and fastened with glue. The inserts of such plates are also resorted to in cases where it is necessary to narrow the width of the mouth.

With significant wear of the sole, it is leveled on a large piece of sandpaper or by planing with another plane (preferably a jointer). If at the same time it is necessary to remove too thick a layer (say, 5 mm), then the sole can be increased by firmly gluing a hardwood plate, then the width of the mouth can also be restored.

In all planers and jointers, the blade of the glands protrudes 0.1-1 mm above the plane of the sole. Again, the thickness of the chips depends on the size of the protrusion, and hence the cleanliness of the planing. To raise the cutter and reduce the protrusion, lightly hit the back of the block with a hammer (not the boss!), which makes the clamping force of the blade weaken, it can be removed completely. Having installed the piece of iron in the desired position, it is again clamped in the notch with a wooden wedge. To lower the cutter, the hammer is very weakly hit once or twice, first on the upper part of the piece of iron, and then on the blade. The value of the protrusion of the cutter is set empirically, according to the chip thickness. With some skills, the carpenter installs and fixes the piece of iron in the right position the first time. To do this, you need to turn the planer over and look along the sole: the size of the protrusion will be noticeable by the cutting edge of the piece of iron shining in the gap.

A disassembled block of a planer, without glands and a blade, is usually impregnated with heated drying oil or other vegetable oil, rubbed with wax, covered with transparent varnish, which improves the slip of the sole during planing. Planers are never painted with oil paint, because it wears unevenly and the appearance of the tool deteriorates.

It is usually necessary to plan all blanks, regardless of whether they were planed before or not. If you take a plank, planed in the factory on a machine, then it is easy to notice on its surface with a simple eye the traces of knives planted on the round shaft of the electric jointer. If the plank was previously treated with a hand plow, then from time to time it could warp or become uneven due to uneven drying of the wood fibers.

A home carpenter often uses wood that has already been used. In all cases, before planing, the surface of the workpiece should be inspected to make sure that there are no protruding nails, screws, metal clips on it. The surface must be cleaned of traces of lime, sand, paint. Nails can be under a layer of dust and dirt.

The surface after planing should be not only clean, but also even. Cleanliness is achieved by proper sharpening and installation of a piece of iron, as well as planing in the direction of the fibers, not “against the grain”. But you can get a flat surface only if you have some experience with a planer.

Attach a metal ruler to the newly planed plane of the bar (wooden ones often need to be checked themselves) and see if there are any gaps at the ends of the bar. If they are, then this is only the result of the fact that you did not hold the planer correctly.

At the beginning of planing, from the moment when the cutter has not yet touched the wood, and until the sole of the plow is three-quarters of the length on the processed surface of the bar, the planer is pressed with the left hand, holding the horn, and with the right they are only pushed forward. Then they press the block with both hands, and at the end of planing, when the horn seems to hang in the air, the force of the left hand is removed and the pressure is applied only with the right hand, while the left, using the horn, only pulls the planer forward.

The correctness of planing long bars is checked by eye. The correct planing of a wider plank can also be checked by eye, as well as using two rails 150-200 mm long. The plank is placed with the planed side up on the table, and the slats are installed at the ends. If the plane is not skewed during planing, the slats will be parallel to each other. Otherwise, the raised edges of the plank must be trimmed (Fig. 7).
The bar is planed starting from the surface that will be the front. But before that, you need to look at the knots, gaps always form around them, especially if thick chips are removed. To get a clean surface on knotty wood, it is necessary to reduce the protrusion of the cutting edge of the piece of iron to a minimum, in which case the chips will become almost transparent to the light.

Techniques for checking the correctness of planing: 1 - plane with the help of two rails; 2 - edges with a thickness gauge ruler
Planer K. E. Tsiolkovsky: 1 - guides; 2 - vystrazhivaemoe workpiece
If you need to cut a thick layer of wood, more than a millimeter, then it is advisable to cut the knot to this depth with a sharp chisel, you can also soften it with hammer blows. Then the plane iron will not dull so quickly.

On the plane, which in the future should become the basis for sticking decorative plywood or inlay, the knots should be cut down without fail, and wooden inserts should be glued in their place. This is done in the following way. Square plates of such a size are cut from wood of the same breed so that they completely cover the knot, the thickness can be 5-10 mm. Then this blank is superimposed on the knot and outlined around the perimeter with a sharpened pencil or awl. The recess is cut down with a chisel and a plate is inserted into it with glue.

K. E. Tsiolkovsky came up with the idea to equip the planer with guides in order to cut planks to a given thickness without preliminary marking, without a special thicknessing machine (Fig. 8).

Square. After checking the correctness of the plane, they begin to process the edge, which in the finished product can also be front. The correctness of its planing is checked with a square.

Square (1), Erunok (2), Malka (3) The square consists of a rectangular block and a thin ruler cut into it (Fig. 9). The length of the block is 100-120 mm, the width is 40-45 mm and the thickness is 20-25 mm. The ruler can have a length of 180-240 mm, a width of 25-30 mm and a thickness of 3-5 mm. To check the right angles of large-format products (for example, frames, doors), marking plywood sheets, large squares are used.

You have to make the corner yourself. At one end of the block with a saw, a cut is made with a depth of 8-10 mm less than the width of the ruler. The width of the cutout (eye) is made equal to the thickness of the ruler. If we take the usual student’s as the last one (divisions are optional), then the eye can be made by cutting with a well-spread saw or two hacksaw blades folded together for metal. The ruler at one end should fit snugly into the cut. To connect the parts, you can use any glue. It is recommended to apply it on both inner sides eyes.

After the square is assembled with glue, the eye must be clamped in the clamp, having previously verified the inner corner. When gluing, only the inner corner is verified, the outer one can be corrected later by removing thin chips from one of the ends of the ruler.

The clamp can be replaced by any other clamp, for example, a meat grinder screw, a vice. It is enough even to press the square to the floor with a table leg or other heavy object and leave it in this position for 3-4 hours.

When the glue dries, the remnants of it are removed with a chisel, and the block and ruler are cleaned with sandpaper. Usually this tool, like a planer, is impregnated with drying oil, covered with wax, varnish.

Thickness gauge: 1 - block; 2 - rulers; 3 - crackers; 4 - blade It is easy to check the outer corner of the tool by applying it to the even edge of the drawing board, plywood sheet, table, first with one side, then with the other. The pencil lines drawn along the ruler should be parallel.

Reismus. The planing of the other two surfaces of the bar according to a given thickness and width is performed after marking with a thickness gauge, which, like a square, can be done by yourself. Now that you have acquired the skills to work with a saw, planer and chisel, it is not so difficult.

The thickness gauge of the simplest design consists of a wooden block into which a small nail with a sharply sharpened end is driven. On the surface of the tree, it leaves a shallow thin trace - at risk. When marking, the block is applied to the front side of the bar.

Stretching the bar along the thickness gauge, it is necessary to periodically ensure that the chips are removed evenly over the entire plane. You need to be especially careful when the cutter of the planer is about to touch the risks. Try to just touch it without cutting off the pencil line completely.

Now the bar is planed on three sides, it remains to mark the fourth side with a thickness gauge, plan it, and the workpiece is ready.

It is more convenient to use a thickness gauge of a more complex design, which allows marking simultaneously in two sizes without changing the tool (Fig. 14). You should also try to make such a thickness gauge yourself.

It consists of six parts: a block with dimensions of 60 × 40 × 20 mm, two square rulers 7X7 mm and up to 150 mm long, two crackers with dimensions 7X8 × 9 mm and a blade 60 mm long and 7 mm thick. Rusks are made from harder wood. For all parts, only dry wood of any species aged at room temperature is suitable.

A thickness gauge is made in the following sequence. Two rulers are cut out, on a block 14 mm thick (the lid is glued later, during the final assembly) with a fine-toothed saw (preferably a jigsaw), cuts are made 7 mm deep, the grooves are selected with a narrow chisel. Then a conical cut is made for the blade, the crackers are cut out with a jigsaw, one side of them, facing the blade, is slightly rounded. Grooves for crackers are cut down with a narrow chisel.

Details must be checked in a trial collection and cleaned with sandpaper. The thickness of the blade and crackers should be half a millimeter less than the thickness of the rulers so that they fit freely in their sockets. When all the moving parts fit well, a plate covering them with a thickness of 6 mm is glued. It can be cut out of plywood. So that the plate does not move during gluing and pressing, it can be pre-fixed with two nails 12-15 mm long.

It is better to use thick glue so that when the drop is pressed in, it is not blocked by moving parts. For the same purpose, when the block is clamped in a vice or clamp, the blade and rulers can be removed.

At the ends of the rulers, thin carnations are hammered, their ends protruding outwards are bitten off with wire cutters and sharpened with a file so that triangular cutters are formed. On wood, they will leave a thin mark up to a millimeter deep.

The principle of operation of the thickness gauge is that the movable rulers, set to a given size, are fixed by a light blow with a chisel edge on the blade. At the same time, the crackers move apart and tightly press the square rulers to the block body. To release the rulers for resizing, just press the narrow part of the blade with your finger. Millimeter divisions can be applied to the rulers, starting from the tip of the cutter.

The design of this thicknesser can be simplified by making a wedge-shaped clamp not along the rulers, but perpendicular to them. Then crackers will become superfluous. But the disadvantage of such a constructive solution is the fact that the blade unevenly fixes the position of the rulers, their edges are warped.

Other tools are sometimes required for marking: a scraper for drawing marks at an angle of 45 ° and a bevel with a movable ruler for marking at any angle. The device and the principle of their application are clear from the figures. A carpenter can easily do without a yerunk, because it is enough to build a square on a workpiece with a ruler and a square, and its diagonals form the desired angle. It is rare to saw and cut wood at other angles.

Do-it-yourself carpentry work

Carpentry usually involves the manufacture of window doors and window blocks. It is very difficult and problematic to do. For such carpentry work, appropriate skills and a certain amount of experience are simply required. But if you still decide to do it yourself, then you should follow the following procedure.

Prepare assembly and Construction Materials for the entire volume of the same type of work;

When harvesting bars from boards, saw them lengthwise into long bars and cut shorter wooden bars from them to the required size;
When processing, it is necessary to firmly fix it in the workbench;
Fine cutting and planing should be performed only according to templates;

Hollow eyes and spikes on a clear marking with an awl on a square. All cuts and cuts should be made only according to the marking with a bracket or thickness gauge. Long lines on boards and bars should be marked with a blackened thread. The spikes should go into the eyes and grooves tightly, for which, when sawing them, marking lines must be left;

Before nailing and gluing the parts of the product, assemble and mark (number). It is necessary to glue in a warm room (at a temperature above +15 ° C), and press the parts with wedges or clamps in the cutouts of the boards. Window bindings are glued with casein glue. When smearing joints with glue, they are moved apart by half, with the exception of deaf ones, which have to be disassembled. After compression, the correctness of the assembly is determined by checking with a square and along the diagonals;

Produce identical products in batches. For example, in the manufacture of bindings, first all vertical racks are made, then horizontal ones, and after that - the middle for all bindings at once. This work allows to achieve higher quality products.

Organization of the carpenter's workplace. In the countryside workplace a home carpenter can be placed in a barn, hallway, porch or in a special work room.

In a cramped city apartment, the best places for a carpenter are the front, balcony or loggia. Temporarily, a corner in the kitchen or even in the common living room can also be turned into a carpentry workshop. No need to be afraid of chips and sawdust. A broom, a brush, a rag and a vacuum cleaner will remove them in the blink of an eye.

If it is possible to allocate for a home workshop separate room, it is carefully examined, repaired if necessary, the ceiling, walls, floor, doors, windows are painted, general lighting is arranged from a lamp located in the center of the room under the ceiling. For the possibility of using electrified tools, sockets are installed. Considerable attention is paid to the ventilation of the room; for the hood, a fan is used, which can be purchased at electrical stores. The fan is installed in a window or in a chimney leading to the roof.

The workshop room must be heated. Heating can be central, from a solid fuel stove and electric. In the latter case, it is best to use a portable oil cooler. When installing heating and lighting in the workshop, fire safety requirements must be strictly observed.

The desktop, workbench, workbench, etc. are placed as close as possible to the window; daylight should fall from the left or from the front. Wall cabinets for tools are hung on the walls closer to the workplace. If the area of ​​​​the room allows, a rack for tools and materials is located at the workplace.
On the wall behind the table, you can fix a board or chipboard with holes in which various hooks and rings are installed for hanging tools, small shelves, boxes with small parts, nails, screws, etc.

In the process of working with tools, injuries are possible. To provide first aid in a workshop or a corner for work There should be a first aid kit with iodine, bandage, cotton wool, a tourniquet, hydrogen peroxide, etc. A cabinet or box with a first aid kit is placed in a conspicuous place. There must also be drinking water in the workshop.

The workplace should have good local artificial lighting. To do this, use a drawing lamp, which is mounted above the table or on a shelf using a special bracket. To illuminate the workplace, you can also use a reflector, usually used to illuminate the subject of photography. To illuminate the workplace, you need a lamp with a power of 60 watts.

corner home master in the working room, the front room or the young man's room, it can be equipped with a universal cabinet, which is designed to store tools and materials. The sliding board serves as a desktop.

Storage of tools and materials. The conditions of storage of tools and materials have a significant impact on working conditions, and to a certain extent on the quality of products.

A shallow wooden box with a lid is convenient for storing tools in the workshop, the dimensions of which are taken depending on the number of tools: For a set of essential tools, a box 600 ... 700 long, 400 ... 450 wide and 120 ... 150 mm high is recommended. In the box for each tool, a certain place is allocated with fasteners in the form of eyelets, wooden blocks or partitions.

In the corner of the home master carpenter, which is located in the hallway, kitchen, on the veranda, in the pupil's or student's room, tools can be stored in a wall cabinet.

If there is no space in the apartment for a special tool cabinet or drawer, tools can be stored in a combination cabinet or in desk, highlighting one or three boxes for this. It is desirable to arrange cells in the boxes. This will improve the conditions for storing the tool and using it.

A home master carpenter should always have materials such as cutting boards, wooden bars and slats, steel, iron, copper and aluminum wire of different diameters, tin, scraps of aluminum and brass sheets, nails, screws and bolts of different diameters, pieces of plexiglass and multi-colored plastics, pieces of leatherette, oil and nitro paints, carpentry, rubber, polyvinyl acetate and other adhesives, electrical cords, sockets, plugs, switches, etc.

Materials, like tools, should be stored in perfect order, avoiding clutter in the drawer, rack or cabinet provided for them. They are sorted and stacked each in its place. Screws, bolts, nails and other small items are placed in separate boxes or in a box divided by partitions into several compartments. The wire is rolled into rings. Boards, bars, plywood are sorted and stacked on racks. Only short and thick bars and boards can be stored in an upright position. Neatly laid out materials take up less space, are better preserved, and are easier to use.

JOINERY WORKS.

Such work includes marking wooden parts, their machining, gluing and assembling, cladding and finishing, as well as hanging hinges and handles, inserting locks, installing trim and handrails, etc. Many of these works can be done by yourself at home, knowing the basic techniques for handling wood and having the necessary tools for this.
For the manufacture of wooden products, boards, solid or glued bars and boards, plywood, chipboard (chipboard) and wood-fiber board (DFP), and other modern materials are usually used.

Boards, bars and plates from them are made from natural wood and have all its inherent properties: wood has a fibrous structure, resists shock and vibration loads well (especially when loads are applied along the fibers), is easy to process, reliably connects in products and structures with glue, and has high decorative properties.
Plywood consists of 3 or more sheets of wood (veneer) glued together with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm, and these sheets are folded for gluing so that the wood fibers of adjacent sheets are mutually perpendicular. Plywood is available in thicknesses from 3 to 25 mm.
Chipboard is obtained by hot pressing wood chips with a binder (resin). Plates are produced calibrated in thickness: 10, 18, 20 and 30 mm. Mainly used for making furniture. Chipboard products are well processed, strong enough, do not warp, but are afraid of dampness - they quickly swell and lose their shape. To protect chipboard from dampness, they are veneered (veneered), pasted over with a “wood-like” film, varnished or oil paint.

Fiberboard is made by pressing crushed and split wood with various additives (paraffin, resin, rosin, etc.); used for insulation of rooms (upholstery of walls, ceilings, followed by wallpapering or painting), as finishing material, for the manufacture of containers. Fiberboard products are easy to process, but not strong enough.

Most hand carpentry work is done with a carpentry tool. If there is no workbench, you can work on a regular table, covering it with a sheet of plywood so as not to damage the surface of the countertop, or on the floor.

Carpentry tools are divided into three main types: measuring and marking (rulers, folding rules, compasses, squares, templates, etc.), cutting (saws, axes, planes, chisels, chisels, drills, etc.) and auxiliary (hammers, mallets, rasps, screwdrivers, brace, brushes, pliers, wiring, etc.). For gluing and assembly, clamping devices (clamps, clamps) are used.
The marking of wooden parts before machining is performed using a folding wooden or metal ruler. According to the marks made with a pencil, lines are drawn indicating the boundaries of processing (cut lines).

Mechanical processing of wood with hand tools includes: sawing and planing of blanks (and finished products when they are adjusted to size), cutting spikes and eyes, chiselling and drilling sockets and holes, cutting fasteners and accessories, scraping, grinding. For sawing small wooden parts and sawing plywood or chipboard, a one-handed hacksaw is usually used (see Sharpening a cutting tool in the article). A hacksaw will cut cleanly and quickly if its teeth are well sharpened and properly set - bent through one to the left and right. At the same time, the width of the cut is slightly larger than the thickness of the saw blade, so it does not get stuck in the cut. To spread the saw, you need to use a special tool - wiring, with which the saw teeth are bent to the sides by 0.5-0.7 mm. Not the entire tooth is bent, but only its upper part, approximately 2/3 of the height from the base of the tooth. The set of teeth on each side should be the same. After the saw has been set, the teeth must be sharpened; this is best done with a triangular file.

The quality of the sawn surface depends on the choice of the saw and its preparation, for example, a rough, uneven, torn-edged surface is obtained if the saw is sawed with too large and poorly sharpened or excessively set teeth. Sawing should be from the outside of the marking lines in the same plane, do not put pressure on the saw. Before the end of sawing, it is necessary to support the sawn off part of the board or plywood sheet, otherwise a chip may occur and the part will be damaged.

Wood planing is one of the main types of carpentry work. They do this with the help of a sherhebel (rough processing), planers of various types (primary and clean planing), a jointer (final processing of long parts) and a grinder (final cleaning). For planing curly surfaces, a tongue-and-groove (selection of tongues), a zenzubel (selection and cleaning of quarters), a fillet (grooving), humpbacks (processing convex and concave surfaces), etc. are used. Usually at home it is enough to have a sherhebel and a small planer; you can limit yourself to one planer for primary processing.

Chiseling is used to select grooves and other recesses, performed using chisels and chisels. Chisels are produced in various widths, the width of the blade must match the hole. You should know that chisels and chisels are sold, as a rule, sharpened.
If it is required to make a through hole, then it should be chiseled from both sides of the part in opposite directions; with one-sided chiselling, the edges of the outlet hole can be severely damaged, they will be “torn”. It is recommended to place a piece of board or a piece of plywood under the workpiece so as not to damage the surface of the table on which you are working.
If the width of the board is much larger than required, it can be trimmed with a hatchet. The marking line must be drawn in such a way as to have some margin (2-3 mm) along the width of the board for subsequent planing. Hewing should begin with a notch with an ax in several places of the edge to be removed, after which the board should be unfolded and the edge beveled to the marking line. Using a planer, eliminate existing irregularities and bring the board to the desired size.

Cycling and grinding are the final operations of mechanical processing of wooden products, performed in order to prepare the surface for veneering during finishing. These operations are carried out with the help of rasps, cycles, files and sandpaper (skins); the most rough processing is carried out with a rasp, fine grinding - with a fine abrasive sandpaper.

Bonding and assembly of wooden parts and products. The main types of carpentry joints: adhesive, carpentry knitting and connections with metal fasteners. When carpentry works, any adhesives suitable for gluing wood are used, including carpentry, (mezdrovy or bone), casein, epoxy, PVA, Moment-1, etc.

Joiner's bindings are called connections of elements, in which one of the parts has a protruding element - a spike, which is included in the socket or eyelet of another part corresponding to its size and shape. Spikes can be single and double, through and deaf. Often carpentry knitting is carried out by means of round or flat plug-in spikes. Usually carpentry knitting is done with glue, for collapsible joints - without glue, by means of metal fasteners: screws, bolts, nails, plates, rivets, etc.
For joinery work, etc., it is useful to have a set of different screws. Screws release different sizes with two types of slots on the head - slotted and cross-shaped. Accordingly, you need to select a screwdriver. So that the screw head does not protrude above the surface of the part, the hole must be countersinked - with a drill, the thickness of which is equal to or slightly greater than the diameter of the screw head.

Fastening wooden parts with nails has some features. Before driving a nail into a piece of hardwood, it is recommended to drill a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the thickness of the nail. The same should be done when you need to nail a thin bar or hammer in a nail 120-200 mm long. When driving nails into parts of small thickness, the tip of the nail must first be slightly blunted, for example, by hammering. A small nail will go into the board more easily if it is soaked in water.

Veneering (veneering) is usually performed for decorative purposes and therefore most often used for this purpose is fine wood veneer, as well as a decorative “wood-like” film with or without self-adhesive backing. For facing, the surface of the product should be prepared - carefully leveled and cleaned with sandpaper or cycles. Then choose a piece of veneer of the right size and pattern. Apply a thin layer of glue (carpentry, casein, PVA, Moment, etc.) on the surface of the part and veneer, then press it firmly against the part over the entire glued surface and leave it in this form until the glue dries completely. Excess veneer protruding beyond the edges of the surface to be lined must be cut off with a sharp knife, and the cut points should be cleaned with fine sandpaper. In order to more clearly reveal the pattern of the tree, the veneered surface should also be cleaned with a finely abrasive sandpaper and varnished or wiped with a solution of natural wax in turpentine. After the coating dries well, it should be sanded again and coated again. So repeat 3-4 times.

When using a wood-like film, the surface of the product should be prepared especially carefully, since the slightest roughness becomes especially noticeable on the smooth surface of the film. Often the film is used for lining products made of chipboard - the surface of the product should be sanded, the ends of the plate should be puttied and also cleaned with sandpaper, and then dust, dirt, and grease spots should be carefully removed from the surface of the product. Coat a well-cleaned surface with varnish 1-2 times. When using a film with a self-adhesive base, it is recommended to cover the already cleaned surface of the product with 1-2 layers of varnish before gluing, let it dry thoroughly and only then stick the film. On the surface prepared in this way, the film adheres more firmly and does not lag behind at the edges. For gluing artificial paper veneer with a non-self-adhesive backing, you can use any glue for gluing wooden parts. The surface of the product for paper veneer does not require such careful preparation as for the film; enough to keep it straight and clean.

Finishing includes sealing holes, cracks and cracks on the surface of wooden parts and products, their varnishing and painting. Used to repair wood surface defects. different kinds putties based on drying oil, varnish, synthetic resins, wood glue. For example, holes and deep grooves in chipboard are conveniently sealed with sawdust mixed with epoxy or wood glue. A universal epoxy putty is also available, suitable for almost all wood products.
Products made of natural wood are best finished in the following way: wipe the surface with a dry cloth and then cover with a tampon several times with liquid stain until the wood acquires the desired shade. Often, after staining, wooden products are covered with furniture varnish, which gives decorative look and protects against the harmful effects of moisture. Various oil, nitrocellulose, shellac (alcohol), perchlorovinyl and polyester varnishes are widely used. Most varnishes are colorless. Varnishes, especially liquid ones, are well absorbed by wood, and in order to obtain a smooth, shiny surface, several layers of varnish must be applied to the product, and each subsequent layer must be applied only after the previous one has dried.

When painting wooden products, their surface must first be prepared: level, putty and clean. In order for the paint to hold better, the surface of the product must be coated with a primer (for example, drying oil, red lead). The paint is best applied in a thin layer, evenly over the entire surface, several times.

Carpenter's work instructions

1. General Provisions

1.1. This manual has been developed based on the requirements of:

1.1.1. Article 17 of the Law of Ukraine "On labor protection"

1.1.2. Reference book of qualification characteristics of workers' professions, approved by order of the Ministry of Labor and Social Policy of Ukraine dated February 16, 1998 No. 24

1.2. The carpenter is hired by the chief doctor of the sanatorium on the recommendation of the deputy. ch. doctor (chief engineer) and only the chief is dismissed. sanatorium doctor.

Admission, transfer and dismissal are issued by order of the enterprise (sanatorium)

1.3. The carpenter in his work is subordinate to the deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer), operation engineer.

2. Tasks and responsibilities.

2.1. The tasks of the carpenter are:

2.1.1. Carry out carpentry and repair work in accordance with the requirements of drawing and technical documentation.
2.1.2. Careful maintenance of inventory, mechanized tools in accordance with the requirements of the instructions of manufacturers.

2.2. The duties of a carpenter are:

2.2.1. Follow instructions and instructions from the administration.

2.2.2. Put things in order in the carpentry workshop, monitor the state of lighting, alarms, observe the sanitary regime.

2.2.3. Produce high-quality carpentry work in accordance with the current documentation and the requirements of the E TKS, depending on the qualification (category)

2.2.4. Carry out repairs of joinery (windows, etc.), furniture (bedside tables, cabinets, beds, etc.)

2.2.5. Carry out the replacement of locks in doors, cabinets, latches, latches, etc., guided by the passports of manufacturers.

2.2.6. Follow the instructions for labor protection, fire safety and this manual.

2.2.7. Follow the internal regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct.

2.2.8. Rational and economical use of materials.

2.2.9. Constantly improve your skills.

2.2.10. Remove inventory, tools, protective equipment in designated areas.

2.2.11. Clean up the workplace after performing work in buildings and structures, store materials, joinery, etc.

2.2.12. Maintain established documentation.

2.2.13. Undertake preliminary and periodic medical examinations in accordance with the established procedure.

2.2.14. Comply with labor protection obligations stipulated by the collective agreement.

2.2.15. Cooperate with the administration in organizing safe and harmless working conditions.

2.2.16. Give a written explanation at the request of the administration in case of accidents, breakdowns of equipment, tools, violations of instructions, etc.

2.2.17. Take good care of tools, equipment, etc.

2.2.18. Participate in the repair of the instrument on the instructions and orders of the administration, guided by a special technological process and relevant instructions.

2.2.19. Perform the duties of a woodworking machine operator, a carpenter in the presence of appropriate qualification certificates, documents and orders for the enterprise.

3.1 The carpenter has the right:

3.1.1 Require the organization of the workplace and conduct of work in accordance with regulatory enactments. , providing materials, tools, carpentry, inventory, etc. necessary for carpentry work.

3.1.2 Require timely repair of mechanized tools, equipment scaffolding.

3.1.3 Refuse to perform work if the working conditions and the workplace do not comply with the regulations on labor protection and fire safety

3.1.4 Require the provision of sanitary facilities and their equipment in accordance with the requirements of regulatory enactments, PPE (overalls, footwear, safety devices).

3.1.5 Require the issuance of a shift assignment and briefing on labor protection.

3.1.6 Demand the provision of benefits and compensation for difficult and harmful working conditions (based on the results of attestation of workplaces).

3.1.7 Submit proposals for improving the organization of carpentry work.

4 Responsibility

4.1. The carpenter is responsible for:

4.1.1. Non-fulfillment of a shift task, poor quality of work, marriage in work.

4.1.2. Failure to comply with administration instructions.

4.1.3. Failure to comply with orders for the enterprise, the provisions of the collective agreement.

4.1.4. Violation of this instruction, internal labor regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct, instructions on labor protection and fire safety, instructions for operating equipment, equipment, tools, technological documentation of drawings, etc.

4.1.5. Disabling (breakdown) of scaffolding, inventory, tools, etc.

4.1.6. Use of materials and tools, equipment, carpentry for personal needs, etc.

4.1.7. Loss of tools and PPE through my own fault.

4.1.8. Mess and dirt in the carpentry workshop.

4.1.9. Uneconomical consumption of materials (in violation of approved standards).

4.2. The carpenter is responsible in accordance with the internal labor regulations and current legislation.

5 Must know (be able to).

5.1. Must know:

5.1.1. Properties of wood of different species and its defects, types of joinery and their

Constructions, hardware and their applications, constructions and devices of locks.

5.1.2. Glue, mastics, putties, antiseptic pastes, etc.

5.1.3. Technological processes of carpentry, repair of joinery and furniture.

5.1.4. Purpose and arrangement of manual and mechanized tools, malfunctions and malfunctions of the tool, the procedure for their elimination.

5.1.5. Rules for the use of materials, tools, equipment, joinery, etc.

5.1.6. Tooling, fixtures and equipment for work.

5.1.7. Legislation on labor protection, fire safety, Labor Code.

5.1.8. Internal labor regulations and instructions on the rules of conduct.

5.1.9. Standard sets of tools, fixtures, containers, scaffolding, protective equipment, etc., necessary for work.

5.1.10. Instructions for labor protection, fire safety and this manual

5.1.11. Equipment operating instructions.

5.1.12. Plan (instructions) for the elimination of accidents.

5.1.13. Rules for handling primary fire extinguishing equipment.

5.2. The carpenter must be able to.

5.2.1. Carry out high-quality carpentry work (depending on the category

Qualifications in accordance with ETKS)

5.2.2. Handling hand and power tools, inventory,

Equipment and others.

5.2.3. Use protective clothing, footwear and protective equipment.

5.2.4. Handle primary fire extinguishing equipment.

5.2.5. Render first aid to the victim.

6 Qualification requirements.

Joiner must have 8-11 grades general education and training in a special program in the system of vocational training. (SPTU, GPTU, UKK, etc.)

7 Relationships (connections by profession)

7.1 Carpenter:

7.1.1 Receives a working (shift) task from the operation engineer, deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer.)

7.1.2. Submits the completed work to the Operations Engineer, Deputy ch. TC doctor

(chief engineer)

7.1.3. Reports all shortcomings, comments to the maintenance engineer, deputy.

Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)

7.1.4. Interacts with other workers of the brigade, technical service in accordance with the requirements, established orders, orders and instructions.

7.1.5. Receives tools, overalls, hardware, materials, tools personal protection and others at the storekeeper.

7.1.6. Works in contact with housewives and other heads of departments, fulfilling their requests as deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer).

7.2. All disagreements between the carpenter and other workers, the maintenance engineer are resolved by the deputy. ch. doctor for PM (chief engineer)

Carpentry and joinery tools

Hand tools are designed to perform work using their own strength. Most of the tools described can be easily replaced with mechanical or electrical counterparts. But for many types of joinery and carpentry, hand tools remain indispensable.

Conventionally, carpentry and joinery tools can be divided according to their purpose: for sawing, planing, chiselling and trimming, drilling and auxiliary work.

Tools general purpose

The hammer is perhaps the most important tool for carpentry and joinery. The stores sell ready-made hammers, as well as their individual parts. For the hammer handle, cornel, pear, and acacia wood is used, which are particularly hard and cheap. Only high-quality steel is used for the hammer head. But even this simple tool has several varieties.

An ordinary hammer can be found in any store. The impact surface of such a hammer has a rectangular or square plane. The other end of the striker is pointed, it is often used to straighten nails when driving.

A wooden mallet, or mallet, is used to grind wooden masses when gluing. It is also quite often needed when working with a chisel whose handle is made of wood. Blows delivered with a regular hammer can simply break the handle and render the chisel useless.

Mallet.

The carpenter's hammer is different from the usual topics that the tail of the striker is divided into two parts like a dovetail. This end is most often used for pulling nails.

Pliers are essential for working with wood. Their main purpose is pulling out nails, biting off nail heads, bending wire and nails during fastening.

Depending on what needs to be done with a nail, there are needle nose pliers, pliers and round nose pliers.

For example, pliers and pliers are used for pulling out, bending, biting nails, unscrewing nuts, removing screws with stripped grooves from wood, and for other auxiliary work.

The doboynik in carpentry and carpentry is used to deepen the nail head into solid wood.

A screwdriver is used to fasten wooden parts with screws. Depending on the groove on the head of the screw, it is necessary to have two types of screwdrivers: wedge-shaped and cross-shaped.