A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts can be divided into three categories according to the field of application (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for splicing/splicing.

Drawer connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and cabinets, frame connections are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing is used to obtain parts with an increased width / length.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
• Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
  After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil.
• Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
• Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
• Repeat the operation for the width.
• Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.

Lumber marking

Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.

All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so that, for example, it indicates that side 1 is connected to end 1.

When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there can be “right” and “left” parts.

Butt joints

These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.

Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a corrugated key on the outside, or with a wooden block fixed on the inside.

Nail / dowel connections

Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), drawer joints (cabinets) or for splicing/joining (panels).

Assembling the dowel joint

1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.

2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.

Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.

3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.

With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.

6. Using an electric drill with a twist drill or a hand drill with a spade bit, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.

7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the connection.

Nagels

The pin should have a longitudinal groove (now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), through which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.

Use of pins for marking dowels

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a block of wood, drill holes in it, fix the template to the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.

Using a jig for a dowel connection

The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.

conductor for nail joints

1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.

3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.

4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.

Rallying

To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.

The pin connection is neat and strong.

Flange / mortise connections

A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.

Types of mortise / mortise connections

The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, a quarter corner (corner joint) and a dark/semi-dark corner joint. A corner cut into a rebate and a corner cut into a rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.

Making a cut

1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.

2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.

3. C-clamp the workpiece securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.

Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.

4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.

With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.

6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:

• gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
• screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely through the corner.

The notch connection is strong enough

Tongue and groove connections

This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.

Making a connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.

2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.

3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.

4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.

5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.

Tips:

• Tongue and groove type connections can be easily made with a router and a suitable guiding device - either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. See p. 35.
• If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.

6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.

7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Half tree connections

Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.

Types of joins in half-tree

There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.

Making a half-tree gusset

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.

2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.

6. Repeat the process on the second part.

7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.

8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Corner joints on the mustache

Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.

Types of corner connections on the mustache

To perform a bevel of the ends in a corner joint, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Making a corner connection

1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.

4. When cutting by hand, use a miter box and a hacksaw with a back or a hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.

Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.

7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.

Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.

8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.

9. To reinforce the corner joint on the mustache, you can glue a wooden block inside the corner if it is not visible. If important appearance, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.

Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting

Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Mustache splicing

When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Cutting connection

Connection with cutting (cutting, fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.

1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.

Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.

2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.

With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with a tip to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.

3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Complex profiles

Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

Eyelet connections

Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in a corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window frame or where a table leg meets a crossbar).

Eyelet Types

The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.

Making an eyelet connection

1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.

2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.

4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.

Spike-to-socket connection

Stud-in-socket joints, or simply stud joints, are used when two pieces are joined at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the nest.

Standard spike-to-socket connection

1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.

2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.

3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.

4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.

5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the nest. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.

8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.

10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the socket. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same bias.

11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.

Other spike connections

Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.

Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
• A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
• Spike in the dark (steps of the stud on its two sides) - for relatively wide details, such as the lower trim (bar) of the door.

All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike is not visible from the back of the rack. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.

Rallying

Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.

Training

Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:

• If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
• Try not to bundle materials with different ways sawing into one panel.
• In no case do not rally the boards from different breeds wood if not dried properly. They will shrink and crack.
• If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
• Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.

Rallying for a smooth fugue

1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.

2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.

4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.

Other payment methods

Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with pins (dowels);
• in a groove and a comb;
• in a quarter.

Bonding and clamping

Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Adhesives

The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. When working with adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large areas dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, it shrinks when setting.

contact adhesive

Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.

hot glue

Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.

Clips for fixation

Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of wood waste between the clamp and the product to avoid denting from applied pressure.

Gluing and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.

Frame assembly

Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, use a mallet to tap the protruding sections through a piece of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.

Entering Connections

Calling the Connections dialog: Menu -> References -> Connections.

All structural elements (profiles of frames, imposts, shtulpom, sashes, infills) form connections with each other. Two articles are involved in one connection, i.e. it is impossible to create a connection with three structural elements in the program (for example, an impost is included in the connection of frames).

There are three types of connections:

angular (corner connection of frames and corner connection of sashes),

end (the impost enters the frame or the sash, the shtulp enters the frame), adjoining (the sash is adjacent to the frame, the double-glazed window is adjacent to the frame, impost or sash, etc.).

The end and adjacent connection form two elements, one of which is the base or main, the second is dependent. For example, in the “Impost-frame” end connection, the frame is the main element, the impost is dependent;

In this way, main connection elementthis is the element to which the dependent is adjacent or enters.

Dependent element we will call the article 1 ,

main - article 2 .

In a corner connection, both elements that form the connection are equivalent, therefore it does not matter which of the elements will be article 1, and which article 2.

Handbook Dialog Box Connections "consists of two pages"Description of connections" and " Connected elements”.

Top of page " Description of connections” is a list of connections indicating the type of connection and restrictions on its use.
Bottom part - connection specification.
In the Name column a meaningful name for the connection is entered. Several connections can have the same name, but this is undesirable, since it will be impossible to distinguish one connection from another during product design.
In the second column, the priority to be given to connections that match in type and restrictions but with different specifications. For each connection, you can set technological restrictions for its application using the Angle, Angle to the horizontal and Radius, Seam length fields located in the right part of the dialog box.
The pictograms in the upper right corner show schematically the type of connections. Possible connection types:
corner joints 90 gr;
corner connection 45 gr;
end connection;
adjacent connection.

In addition, for each of the two articles that form the connection, it can be either inside or outside. The exception is fillings, for which the connection can only be outside, for example, if a glass package or sash is inserted into the frame, then this connection for the frame is from the inside, and for the sash or glass package from the outside.
For adjacent connections with an impost or sash, the outside side is considered to be to the left of the profile.

Thus, in the groups Article 1-Side and Article 2-Side, it is indicated on which side the connection is located: from any, from the outside or from the inside.

The size connections - this is the distance that Article 1 goes inside Article 2.
This indicator has an impact on the calculation of the dimensions of profiles and filling.

The program calculates the dimensions of components according to the following formulas:

[Sash Size]=[Overall Dimension (Frame Size)]-2* [Frame Width]+2*[Sash-Frame Connection Size]

[Insulating glass unit size]=[Sash size]-2* [Sash width]+2* [Sash-insulating glass joint size]

If an impost is inserted into the frame, then its size will be equal to:

[Mullion Size]=[Frame Size]-2*[Frame Width]+2* [Mullion-Frame Connection Size]

Therefore, the accuracy of the calculations of the program itself will depend on how correctly the size is assigned in a particular connection.

For each connection, you can set technological restrictions for its use using the fields:

Corner,

Angle to horizontal

Radius

seam length spaced

on the right side of the dialog box.

Minimum and Maximum angles- limits of angle change between profiles for corner and end connections.

Minimum and Maximum angle to the horizontal- these are restrictions on the location of the connection (for adjacent connections). For a rectangular structure, the horizontal top profile is taken as O degrees, then counterclockwise: left - 90 degrees, bottom - 180, right - 270. For example, if the sash enters the frame from below at a distance different from the other sides, then three connections must be created with angles to the horizontal 0-179 with one size, 180 - 180 with another size and 181-360 with the size, as in the first case. These three connections will ensure that the frame is connected to the sash along the entire contour with the desired dimensions.

Radius are the restrictions for adjacent connections.

Seam length - these are the restrictions for the first type of corner connections.

The sashes are in different planes- the flag is set for adjacent connection of two sliding doors if they are in different planes (sliding doors).

Flag "Article 1 vertical only"(only available for corner connections) - set if it is necessary to describe a corner connection in which one of the connected profiles can only be vertical, the other - only horizontal.

In this case Article 1 - on the page "Connected elements" there must always be a vertical profile.

After the name of the connection is entered on the page "Description of connections", the type of connection is selected (corner, end or adjoining), the Size and technological restrictions are set, on the page "Connected elements» it is necessary to enter the article numbers of the profiles that will be interconnected in the manner described above.

In the table " Any combination of Article1 with Article2» all Articles 1 are entered, which can be combined with all Articles 2. I.e. any element from the table Article 1 can be combined with any element from the table Article 2.

For adjacent connections, if Article 1 is a double-glazed window that is assembled at the factory from glasses and spacers of various thicknesses (i.e. double-glazed windows of the same thickness can contain a different number of glasses and frames), then you need to set the flag "Article 1 can be a composite double-glazed window" and set the minimum and maximum thickness of the double-glazed window. Thus, for this connection, all composite double-glazed windows will be suitable, the thickness of which will lie within the limits of the minimum and maximum thickness.

In the table "Combinations » A direct correspondence is established between Article 1 and Article 2 "one to one". Those. only those articles that are on the same line are connected to each other.

For example: It is necessary to describe the first type of corner connection for plastic profiles (connection of elements at an angle of 45 degrees). As a rule, with such a connection, plastic profiles are welded. Only the same article numbers of frames or sashes can be welded together, therefore, in the table of “combinations” in one line, Article 1 and Article 2 will be the same. There can be as many of these rows as there are profiles that can be connected in this way and satisfy the technological restrictions on the page "Connection Description».

Completing the connection specification table

The connections described at the top of the "Description of connections" page and on the page "Connected elements" allow you to create only a sketch of the product.

Product specification formed from connection specifications(table at the bottom of the handbook " Connections » on page « Description of connections»).

Therefore, in order for profiles, glazing beads, seals, etc. were included in the product specification and the program could calculate their number and dimensions, they must be written in the connection specification.

The main profiles are written:

frames and sashes - in corner joints;

threshold - in the corner threshold-frame connection.

impost - in end connections impost-frame, impost-sash, impost-impost;

shtulp - in end connections shtulp-frame, shtulp-threshold, shtulp-impost;

In addition to the profile for the connection, the specification must specify those components that will be used in this connection and for which it is necessary to obtain a calculation of their number or cutting. These can be glazing beads, seals, screws, stands for double-glazed windows, etc.

Some components can be registered not in connections , and in the directory Inserts.

For example: - decorative caps on shtulp. They can be included in the specification of the connection, but then if several different connections are described in which this sash is used (connections of the sash to the frame and the connection of the sash to the threshold), then these caps will have to be prescribed in each connection. In such situations, when the size or quantity of the component, regardless of the connection, remains constant, it can be written in inserts (see section Entering inserts).

In the Color column » indicates the color of the component. The list for selection offers color options that the component may have. Here you can choose a specific color: black, white, gray, etc., or you can specify that the color of the component should be matched to the color of one of the elements that form the connection. In this case, "As article 1" or "As article 2" must be entered. If the color of the component is selected according to the outer or inner color of “Article 1” or “Article 2”, then “Like Article 1/2 inside/outside” is selected accordingly.

For example, the glazing bead is selected according to the inner color of the profile, i.e. how "Article 2 from the inside". In this case, the program will analyze the color group of the glazing bead. If it contains a color that matches the color " Article 1" or "Article 2 » from the inside, the glazing bead will have the same color as Art. 1 / 2 on the inside. If there is no such color, then the program will analyze the data on the page "Color group matching» tables « Colors and color groups". If there is a match between the colors in the color groups of the specification line and Article 1 / 2, then the specified color is taken for the specification line. If not, then during designing the program will display a warning message about the impossibility of matching the color.

Qty - the number of components for this connection.

The size - the value of this field determines the calculation of the length or the number of components.

With a corner connection, this dimension indicates the shortening of the component relative to the overall dimensions of the product.

In the case of an end, it indicates the distance to which this component enters Art. 2.

In an adjacent connection, this dimension shows how far from the light opening the component enters Art. 2.

Coefficient - this is the number of components per 1mm profile.

If the unit of measurement of the component from the specification is meters (for example, a profile, sealant, bead, etc.), then the coefficient is 0.001 (1mm = 0.001m, i.e. 1 mm of the component accounts for 1 mm of the profile).

If the unit of measurement is a component piece (sets), then the coefficient shows how many pieces fall on 1 mm of the product. For example, if the screws are screwed in every 300 mm, then 1/300=0.0033 screws per 1mm of the profile.

If the unit of measurement of the component is liters or kilograms, then the coefficient shows how many liters (kilograms) fall on 1 mm. Let 400 g of Butyl go per meter of double-glazed window, then 0.001 / 0.4 = 0.0025 per 1 mm.

Thus, the BOM item Quantity is calculated as (Overall Dimension - Dimension) x Factor.

Circuit No. - it is installed in the case when two specification elements with one article number form several circuits, for example, a seal of one article number has different size(at different distances it enters the profile relative to the color opening).

"Do not count" - the angle is not calculated.

"Weld" - the size of the profile depends on the angle.

The flag "On the contour" and the field " Contour shortening» - in the case of adjacent connections for components located along the contour of the opening with a shortening, for example, a seal in which it is located not along the entire contour, but with a gap for micro-ventilation.

Flag " Only for straight profiles» when this flag is set, the component from the connection specification will be included in the product specification only if the profiles from the page «Connected elements» will be straight. (For the correct calculation of the amount of reinforcement in arched products, this flag is set for reinforcement articles)

Set ("Always"; "With Article 1"; "With Article 2")- what this element of the specification is prescribed for. By default - in the "Always" position. The connection is formed by two elements. Sometimes it is necessary that the specification element is used not for the entire connection, but for one of its elements: Article 1 or Article 2. For example, in the corner connection of the frame and threshold.

on the opening - in the case of adjacent sash-frame connections, install for components with a unit of measurement meter, which are installed on the entire opening. For example, the ebb, which is installed in the production of wooden structures on the lower frame.

For each component from the connection specification, you can also set technological restrictions for its use using the fieldsAngle, Size and Radiuslocated at the bottom of the dialog box. From the specification for the connection, the program will select those elements that satisfy given size, radius and angle.

If it is necessary to select an element of the connection specification at the request of the customer or the designer, then a restriction on parameters is introduced for this element.

For example, if you need to choose which glazing bead to put: straight, curly or elegans, then the parameter " Bead » with a set of values ​​« straight" "curly" and "elegance" ". Three glazing beads are entered into the specification, and the “Beading” parameter with the corresponding value is set in front of each of them. A new parameter is added by pressing the Parameters button and a set of its values ​​is added below. This will allow you to select this element during the design process.

To copy a connection, on the Connection Description page, on the desired connection, right-click and select Copy, then select one of the Paste and Paste with Connected Elements options.
To remove a connection from the list, use the delete button specified in the Rules for Working with Tables. It is not possible to remove from the list a connection used in existing accounts. You can disable its further use by setting the Deleted flag. The entry will then disappear from the list.

To display in the list of remote connections, use the Show remote flag.

In addition to processing solid pieces of wood, it is often necessary to connect wooden parts into knots and structures. Connections of elements of wooden structures are called landings. Joints in the construction of wooden parts are defined by five types of fits: tense, tight, sliding, loose and very loose fit.

Knots - these are parts of structures at the junction of parts. Connections of wooden structures are divided into types: end, side, corner T-shaped, cross-shaped, corner L-shaped and box corner connections.

Joiner connections have more than 200 options. Only connections used in practice by joiners and carpenters are considered here.

End connection (building) - the connection of parts along the length, when one element is a continuation of another. Such joints are smooth, jagged with spikes. Additionally, they are fixed with glue, screws, overlays. Horizontal end connections withstand compressive, tensile and bending loads (fig. 1 - 5). Lumber is increased in length, forming vertical and horizontal jagged joints (wedge lock) at the ends (Fig. 6). Such joints do not need to be under pressure during the entire bonding process, since significant frictional forces act here. Gear joints of sawn timber, made by milling, meet the first class of accuracy.

Joints of wooden structures must be made carefully, in accordance with the three accuracy classes. The first class is intended for high quality measuring tools, the second class is for furniture production, and the third is for building parts, agricultural implements and containers. The lateral connection of several boards or battens with an edge is called rallying (Fig. 7). Such connections are used in the construction of floors, gates, carpentry doors, etc. Plank, rack panels are additionally reinforced with crossbars and tips. When sheathing ceilings, walls, the upper boards overlap the lower ones by 1/5 - 1/4 of the width. The outer walls are sheathed with horizontally laid overlapping boards (Fig. 7, g). The upper board overlaps the lower one by 1/5 - 1/4 of the width, which ensures the removal of atmospheric precipitation. The connection of the end of the part with the middle part of the other forms a T-shaped connection of the parts. Such compounds have a large number of variants, two of which are shown in Fig. 8. These connections (knitting) are used when pairing the log of ceilings and partitions with the harness of the house. The connection of parts at a right or oblique angle is called a cruciform connection. Such a connection has one or two grooves (Fig. 3.9). Cross-shaped connections are used in the construction of roofs and trusses.

Rice. 1. End connections of the bars, resisting compression: a - with a straight half-wood overlay; b - with an oblique overlay (on the "mustache"); c - with a straight half-wood overlay with a joint in an obtuse angle; g - with an oblique overlay with a joint into a spike.

Rice. 2. End connections of the bars (extension), resisting stretching: a - in a straight overhead lock; b - in an oblique laid on lock; c - with a straight overlay half a tree with a joint in an oblique spike (in a dovetail).

Rice. 3. End connections of beams that resist bending: a - with a straight half-wood overlay with an oblique joint; b - with a straight overlay half a tree with a stepped joint; in - in an oblique laid on lock with wedges and with a joint in a thorn.

Rice. 4. Splicing with a notch reinforced with wedges and bolts.

Rice. 5. End connections of the bars, working in compression: a - end-to-end with a hidden hollowed-out spike; b - end-to-end with a hidden plug-in spike; c - with a straight overlay half a tree (the connection can be reinforced with bolts); mr. straight half-wood overlay with wire fastening; e - with a straight overlay half a tree with fastening with metal clips (clamps); e - with an oblique overlay (on the "mustache") with fastening with metal clips; g - with an oblique overlay and fastening with bolts; h - marking the oblique lining; and - end-to-end with a secret tetrahedral spike.

Rice. Fig. 6. End extensions of the milling scheme for end gluing of workpieces: a - vertical (along the width of the part), toothed (wedge-shaped) connection; b - horizontal (through the thickness of the part), gear (wedge-shaped) connection; c - gear joint milling; g - sawing out a gear connection; e - milling of a gear connection; e - end connection and gluing.

Rice. 7. Rallying boards: a - for a smooth fugue; b - on the plug-in rail; in - in a quarter; d, e, f - into a groove and a crest (with various forms of a groove and a crest); g - overlap; h - with a tip in the groove; and - with a tip in a quarter; to - with overlap.

Rice. 8. T-shaped joints of bars: a - with a hidden oblique spike (in a paw or in a dovetail); b - with a straight stepped overlay.

Rice. 9. Cross connections of bars: a - with a straight overlay half a tree; b - with a direct overlay of incomplete overlap; c - with landing in one nest

The connections of two parts with ends at a right angle are called angular. They have through and non-through spikes, open and in the dark, half-dark overlay, half-tree, etc. (Fig. 10). Corner joints (knitting) are used in window irregular blocks, in greenhouse frame joints, etc. The stud joint in the dark has a stud length of at least half the width of the connected part, and the groove depth is 2–3 mm more than the stud length. This is necessary so that the parts to be joined easily mate with each other, and after gluing, there is room for excess glue in the spike socket. For door frames, an angular tenon connection is used in the dark, and to increase the size of the connected surface, in a semi-darkness. A double or triple tenon increases the strength of the gusset. However, the strength of the connection is determined by the quality of its implementation. In furniture production, a variety of corner box joints are widely used (Fig. 11). Of these, the simplest is an open end-to-end spike connection. Before making such a connection, spikes are marked with an awl at one end of the board according to the drawing. By marking the side parts of the spike with a file with fine teeth, a cut is made. Every second cut of the spike is hollowed out with a chisel. For the accuracy of the connection, they first saw through and gouge out the sockets for the spikes in one piece. It is applied to the end of another part and crushed. Then they saw through, gouge and connect the parts, cleaning the connection with a planer, as shown in fig. eleven.

When connecting the parts to the "mustache" (at an angle of 45 °), the angular knitting is fixed with steel inserts, as shown in fig. 12. At the same time, make sure that one half of the insert or clamp is included in one part, and the other half is in the other. A wedge-shaped steel plate or ring is placed in the milled grooves of the parts to be joined.

The corners of frames and boxes are connected with a direct open through spike connection (Fig. 3.13, a, b, c). With increased quality requirements (thorns are not visible from the outside), corner knitting is performed by an oblique blind connection, a groove and a ridge, or an oblique connection to a rail, as shown in fig. 13, d, e, f, g and in fig. fourteen.

A box structure with horizontal or vertical transverse elements (shelves, partitions) is connected using corner T-shaped joints shown in fig. fifteen.

In connecting the elements of the upper belt of wooden trusses with the lower one, corner cuts are used. When mating the truss elements at an angle of 45 ° or less, one cut is made in the lower element (puff) (Fig. 16, a), at an angle of more than 45 ° - two cuts (Fig. 16.6). In both cases, the end cut (cut) is perpendicular to the direction of the acting forces.

Additionally, the nodes are fixed with a bolt with a washer and a nut, less often with brackets. The log walls of the house (log house) from horizontally laid logs in the corners are connected with a cut “in the paw”. It can be simple or with an additional spike (shank with a pit). The marking of the cut is performed as follows: the end of the log is hewn into a square, to the length of the side of the square (along the log), so that after processing a cube is obtained. The sides of the cube are divided into 8 equal parts. Then, 4/8 part is removed from one side from below and from above, and the remaining sides are performed, as shown in Fig. 17. Templates are used to speed up the marking and the accuracy of making cuts.

Rice. 10. Corner end connections of blanks at a right angle: a - with a single opening through a spike; b - with a single through hidden spike (in the dark); in-with a single deaf (non-through) thorn in the dark; g - with a single through semi-secret spike (in semi-darkness); d - with a single deaf spike in semi-darkness; e - with a triple open through spike; g - in a straight overlay half a tree; h - in a through dovetail; and - in eyelets with undercutting.

Rice. 11. Box corner joints with straight through spikes: a - sawing tenon grooves; b - marking the spikes with an awl; in - connection of a thorn with a groove; g - processing by a planer of a corner joint.

Rice. 12. Corner end connections at a right angle, reinforced with metal inserts - buttons: a - 8-shaped insert; b- wedge-shaped plate; in rings.

Rice. 13. Box corner joints at a right angle: a - straight open through spikes; b - oblique open through spikes; in - open through dovetail spikes; g - groove on the plug-in rail end-to-end; d - in the groove and crest; e - on plug-in spikes; g - on spikes in a dovetail in semi-darkness.

Rice. 14. Oblique (on the "mustache") box connections at a right angle: a - oblique spikes in the dark; b - oblique connection on a plug-in rail; in - oblique connection on spikes in the dark; g - an oblique connection, reinforced with a trihedral rail on glue.

Rice. 15. Direct and oblique connections of blanks: a - on a double connection in an oblique groove and ridge; b - on a straight groove and comb; in - on a trihedral groove and a crest; g - on a straight groove and a comb in the dark; d - on straight through spikes; e - on round plug-in spikes in the dark; g - on a spike in a dovetail; h - on the groove and the crest, reinforced with nails.

Rice. 16. Nodes in farm elements.

Rice. 17. Conjugation of the logs of the walls of the log house: a - a simple paw; b - a paw with a wind spike; c - paw markings; 1 - wind spike (pit)

It just so happened to me that the U-shaped niche for the electrical cabinet took shape with dimensions of 35x35 cm in cross section, and a height of about 3 meters. The width was quite enough for a din-rail for 12 modules, and the depth for free cable laying. The question arose of what to mount the din-rails on. I found the CS blog (many thanks to him for such work), and learned about WR-frames there. I decided to use them for the cabinet skeleton. I must add that my electrical project contained differentials of the 941st series, about which I also didn’t know a damn thing, as well as about the existence of the UZM. In general, the old project went to hell, and in the new one, the composition and volume of the module has changed dramatically. Now the entire height of the niche has become in demand.
Of the equipment, two built-in ABB boxes for 36 modules (ABB 12046) were purchased long ago:

Overlays on the built-in parts of the boxes can be beautifully placed one above the other with only a slight indent. Butt - quite unpresentable and impossible. The minimum indent turned out to be just one DIN rail:

There were almost 144 modules, and I had to buy a couple more boxes 12046. It turned out 4 “floors”. Some of the rest of the module, such as current transformers, terminals, etc., had to be moved into the depths of the cabinet, onto the “rear” DIN rails.

Now, actually, about the main thing. WR frames, if I'm not mistaken, are never longer than 2200mm. And you need to build 3000 mm. I bought 6 pieces of WR1101 (2100 mm). There is no regular connector for their longitudinal connection, because installation and maintenance at such heights is not expected (: I made 4 pieces of 900 mm from a pair of WR1101. In addition, 4 ED1 DIN rails were needed (were at hand) and bolts with washers and nuts (then whether m8, or m10, I don’t remember, they calmly passed through the holes in the frame and in the din rail).

A small series of pictures below shows how to connect.
On 4 DIN rails

He bent inward the “ears”-clamps protruding on them:

On the other hand, the second frame is started:

Next, the frames are reduced to the stop, and inside both frames the din rail is moved and set to a position where some of the holes simultaneously coincide in the frames and the din rail itself. Through these holes, the bolts that tighten the entire structure pass:

It turned out three bolts per joint. Washers, of course, must be taken wider, but so that they fit into the “target” of the frame. Additionally, the joint “framed” all the same din-rails, put them everywhere: both between each left and right pillars, and between the front and rear, respectively. A parallelepiped, in short, turned out. Next, I put the entire frame on the prepared M10 studs for the rear frames to back wall niches:

Although in general the frame turned out to be very rigid, I put metal thrust bearings under the front struts with a screed (you can see them a little in the photo with the terminals). There is no backlash of the front part of the frame to the left and right within a couple of mm, up and down and back and forth. After closing the GCR and overlays, it will not be at all.

That, in fact, is all that I wanted to tell. The budget for 4 connections is 4 rails ED 1 and 12 sets of bolt + 2 washers + nut.

In any carpentry or furniture, corner joints are the most important node. They ensure the quality and durability of wooden products. Compared with fastening on a dowel, the classic method - spiked connection on glue has greater durability and rigidity. Such connections are used in cases where the assembled frame must have a groove or fold for inserting a panel or glass.

In practice, they are represented by several options: two grooves and a spike inserted into them, one-sided or two-sided connection with a “mustache” and with a double spike. But the easiest option for home master the use of an inserted (“foreign”) spike remains. Such a connection is nothing more than a tongue-and-groove connection.

The quality of the connection depends entirely on the exact correspondence of the groove and the tenon, which is achieved only by choosing a measuring tool and a well-ground saw and chisel.

In case of a corner joint with one tenon, the thickness of the bar is divided into three equal parts (on a bar less than 25 mm, the tenon should be somewhat thicker than the cheek of the groove).

When marking, the width of the frame is first transferred to the inner edge of the opposite part. The risks are applied using a square with an awl. Since the wood around the spike is selected, its marking is done from any side. For the groove, marking is done only on its narrow side. Then the details are marked. It is customary to make grooves in the vertical elements of the frames, and spikes in the horizontal elements. The grooves are marked with a thickness gauge. A spiked bow saw is sawn along the falling part (for a groove to the base, for a spike - to a ledge). Then a groove is hollowed out with a chisel. To do this, the sawn part is fixed on a workbench. The chisel is placed with a sharpening cut to the detachable part and is driven with a mallet exactly into the mark with light blows. First, a wedge-shaped hole is hollowed out. The detachable part of the wood is left in place so that when working on the reverse side there is an emphasis. The spike is cut at a right angle with a miter saw.

The width of the frame is transferred to the opposite part, maintaining perpendicularity. Add 2-3 mm to the width of the cut.	Mark the groove and spike with a thickness gauge. This is the simplest and most accurate markup method.	Sawing is always from the side of the detachable part in the middle of the markup. A studded bow saw is designed specifically for such work.
A self-made auxiliary stop template will help you make accurate cuts on a circular saw. At the same time, be safe.	The grooves are hollowed out with a chisel. To do this, the connection parts are tightened with a clamp or fixed on a workbench. They weakly hit the chisel with a mallet.	A miter saw with a fixed angle adjustment will allow precise tenon placement. This work can be done on a circular saw.

Special options for corner connections

Special forms of grooves and tenons - double tenon and grooves on the "mustache". Double studs are used in products subject to heavy loads and thick frames. If the frame structure is profiled at the end, then the connection is made with a mustache. There are one-sided and two-sided grooves on the “mustache” (due to the insufficient area of ​​the contact surfaces, they are less durable).

The groove should be located in the middle third of the thickness of the part. The sample around the spike is made less than the depth of the groove, otherwise there will be a gap in the connection. After assembly, the remaining cheeks of the groove are sawn off along the entire length. The reverse is also possible.

The rebate on the frame must be consistent with the division into three parts. This will save time on the spike. The width of the fold must be taken into account when marking out, otherwise gaps will occur here when milling.

After grinding the inner and outer surfaces of the groove and tenon, the frame is glued together. In this case, it is necessary to compress the gusset in two planes through the gaskets. The ends of the groove and tenon must be open for inspection and adjustment during assembly. The protruding adhesive is removed. When gluing, the right angle of the frame is controlled.

After the glue has dried, the clamps are removed and the protruding parts of the tongue or cheeks of the groove are ground from the flanks to a level with the outer side of the product.

	Spike connection on the "mustache": one-sided and two-sided. The choice is determined by the design requirements for the product or its appearance.
	A double spike is made for especially loaded corners and thick frames. In this case, the thickness of the bar is divided into five equal parts.
	When selecting a longitudinal groove in the details of the frame, the spike is not affected. Otherwise, when gluing the knot, a hole will appear in its end face.
	The fold, even when marking, must have an appropriate increase, otherwise gaps will result. Depth is determined by dividing into three parts.
	The spikes and cheeks of the grooves protrude for an increase. When compressed, gaskets will be required. After that, the increase is sawn off.