Sowing the seed of succulents has a number of features that I will discuss. Sowing seeds is the most common way to propagate most plants, and sometimes the only way to get rare and interesting species into your collection. By mastering the techniques of seeding, you can quickly expand or replenish your collection with new interesting species. And I just like to watch the development of plants from seeds - for me there is some kind of magic in this. :-)

I believe that every collector should try to master the technique of sowing to perfection in order to obtain a sufficient number of species of interest to him. And also be able to select the most interesting specimens within the same species for your collection. Thus, the collection of each lover becomes unique in its own way, because everyone chooses the plants that he likes.

I sow mainly the seeds of caudiciforms and succulents - these plants grow in similar climatic zones, so the method of sowing them and growing conditions are approximately the same. Sowing succulent seeds has a number of features, so let's consider them in order.

Tanks for sowing.

For sowing a large number of seeds of large caudex plants (Adenium, Cussonia, Entandrophragma, Brachychiton, Baobab, Pachypodium, Petopentia, Bombaks, etc.), most often I use plastic boxes 40 by 20 cm, 5 cm deep. plant hundreds of seeds.

For sowing seeds of succulents (Aloe, Haworthia, Gasteria) and small seeds of other plants, I use square pots with a side of 5 cm, which I install in a greenhouse with a transparent lid.

substrate for sowing.

Over the years I have tried a great many mixtures, now I have settled on the simplest and most convenient option for me - a mixture of a universal peat substrate with perlite and coarse sand in equal proportions, sometimes I add granulated or crushed coal to the eye. I use this mixture almost always for sowing a larger number of species.

To compile the sowing substrate, I use only high-quality branded ingredients designed specifically for plants, I do not use land from the forest or from the garden or anywhere else, in which, in addition to banal and harmless weed seeds, there may be nematodes and other “charm”.

Large seeds (Bombax, Baobab, Jatropha, Delonix, Entandrophragma) sometimes rot in such a mixture. I successfully sowed them into clean granite chips or gravel 3-5 mm. In clean gravel, the seeds of many caudex plants sprouted and developed perfectly, especially Pachypodium, Pachycormis and Petopentia. It was especially important that sowing succulent seeds on purely mineral substrates significantly reduced the death of seedlings from various rots in the first few months after germination. The disadvantage of sowing in such a substrate is low moisture capacity and the complete absence of nutrients. I had to water almost every day, and fertilize regularly. I used this method when sowing in apartment conditions in 80% of cases, because. I could take care of my pets every day.

Succulents (Aloe, Haworthia and Gasteria) I really liked to sow on clean perlite. The huge advantages of sowing on perlite are its purity, good moisture capacity and breathability.

The downside is the lack of nutrients. Before working with perlite, it must be moistened, otherwise it is very dusty, and small seeds can sink too deep.

Sowing seeds of succulents, especially small ones, is a rather painstaking and time-consuming process. When sowing, I sprinkle all the seeds either with the same mixture or with a small amount of coarse sand 2-3 mm. The layer of powder should not be larger than the size of the seed. I do not sprinkle very small seeds (for example, Ficuses).

After the seeds are laid in the ground and sprinkled, I water them well and cover with a transparent lid.

I don't bother with laying out seeds in rows, soaking and germinating on cloth / paper. IMHO, so many unnecessary manipulations only take time, and seedlings that have risen in almost sterile conditions often die after picking into a non-sterile substrate.

Everywhere it is recommended to steam or fry the substrate for sowing. I used to do it diligently, but when you need to sow thousands of seeds in a hundred bowls, there won’t be enough strength and patience for this steaming. Moreover, if we take into account that in the greenhouse atmosphere all this microflora easily spreads in a humid environment and in water, then the meaning of steaming again disappears. If I had the opportunity to do crops in the laboratory, to ensure the sterility of tools and water, there would be no questions, but my conditions are close to natural. Therefore, I prefer to play with temperature and light, fertilize and dive more often, trying to grow seedlings as healthy and strong as possible so that they develop their own immunity and learn to survive naturally.

By the way, at first I actively watered all my crops with tapa fungicides Maxim, Vitaros and company. Infections occurred slightly less often, but seedlings appeared with a delay (1-2 weeks) depending on the species. All preparations were diluted according to the instructions, the concentration did not exceed. Now I use them only for medicinal purposes, I do not water them for prevention.

Light and temperature.

So, we figured out what to sow, now we should consider under what conditions to keep the crops in order to get the maximum germination. It all depends on the season, weather and temperature. For me, the most convenient way to place them is to simply arrange the bowls with the crops on a rack under the shade, in the summer in the greenhouse the temperature is 25-30 degrees, which is optimal for the germination of most of the seeds of the species I am interested in. Summer shoots are the most friendly, and the seedlings are the strongest and strongest, but if over the summer the young plants do not have time to get strong enough and reach a size sufficient for a cool winter, I extend their growing season by placing them under the lamps.

Seeds of some plants (Haworthia and Dioscorea) require coolness of 18-20 degrees for germination. It is advisable to sow them in winter or early spring, so that the seeds germinate under optimal conditions, and over the summer the seedlings grow and become strong enough.

In order to be able to sow all year round, you need to acquire.

Seedlings should be planted in separate pots as they grow. In the first couples, group maintenance stimulates the growth and development of seedlings. They consume water faster and are more difficult to fill. I most often plant out when the seedlings begin to interfere with each other or when there is free time, and the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves.

« Plants that are included in the group united by the term "succulents" are not related to each other by a common origin, their similar features are caused by similar living conditions.» (c) Source: Wikipedia.

In nature, succulents grow in dry areas, have great tolerance to temperature fluctuations and lighting, however, in order to provide the plant with proper care at home, you need to familiarize yourself with how to grow succulents in more detail. .

Choosing a pot and soil

Have you bought a new plant from the store, or are you wondering how to repot your homemade succulent? Let's take a closer look at all the subtleties and rules of landing. So that growing brings you only joy!

• Start by choosing a pot. Choose the right pot size, it should be a couple of centimeters wider than your plant. For small fleshy individuals, for example, such as Echeveria, Molodilo, Graptoveria, Pachyveria, Stonecrop, low clay or ceramic pots and planters are suitable. Examples of pots and decoration. For all succulents, wide and low pots are usually used, but for large individuals with a developed root system, a regular pot with a drainage system is suitable.

• It is best to transplant succulents in spring or summer, so if you purchased a plant in winter, it is better to leave it until spring in a bright place without transplanting. Next, you need to purchase drainage (fine expanded clay) and earth. A store-bought substrate for succulents and cacti of neutral acidity is suitable, in which coarse sand can be added (if the sand is not from the store, it should be calcined on the stove), a little coconut substrate, or small pebbles such as gravel or expanded clay, and charcoal.

• The soil should be light, with good moisture and air permeability. It is better to avoid a high content of peat in the substrate.

We transplant correctly

• Before planting, we wash the pot and all tools hot water. From a plastic pot, the plant is easy to get by pressing in a circle on the walls. If the pot is ceramic, the soil in the plant must be dry. Carefully turning the pot over, we take out our plant. Large plants can be transplanted with a clod of earth (transshipment method), while for small plants it is better to very carefully free the roots from the old substrate by washing them in boiled water at room temperature.

• We fill the bottom of the pot with drainage, if the pot is high, the drainage level is 5-7 cm, in the low one 2-3 cm is enough. We put the prepared substrate on top, which does not need to be tamped, leaving about 2 cm from the top of the pot. We install the plant on the substrate, and fall asleep top with sand with small pebbles, hiding all the roots. You can fill it with the same substrate, but put a thin layer of fine expanded clay on top.
• We put the transplanted plant in a bright place, avoiding drafts and direct sunlight.

It is not necessary to water the plant immediately after transplanting, it is recommended to give it a couple of days to adapt. Before transplanting, too, you should let the earth dry out.

Care

Useful video

Watering and lighting

When watering, do not allow water to get on the leaves and into the outlet of the plant, this provokes rotting. You can use the bottom watering, if there is a hole in the bottom of the pot.

Watering should be regular about 1-2 times a week in summer (less often, determining the softness of the leaf), and once every three weeks in winter. Always make sure the topsoil is dry before the next watering. You should use settled or filtered water at room temperature. If your pot does not have a hole at the bottom, you should set the limit of the liquid introduced, about 5 ml at a time, if you see that the leaves of the plant have become less fleshy and soft, increase the amount of liquid introduced.

Lighting should be good, you can choose a south window to accommodate your friend, but despite the fact that succulents tolerate open sunlight well in the wild, in summer it is better to shade the plant, and gradually accustom it to the bright sun after buying it in the store, and also after cold season.

In some types of succulents, the color of the leaves directly depends on the presence of sunlight. For example, the red color in the sun is acquired by such species as - Echeveria agavoid, Stonecrop red-colored, Echeveria pulidonis, Stonecrop Nussbaumer.

Aloe vera

Video instruction: how to water succulents

Humidity and temperature

Succulents love damp places, but don't mist their leaves. It is better to use a humidifier in the apartment, or put the plant next to the aquarium. If it is not possible to maintain humidity in the room, provide the plant with fresh air by opening a window, or taking it out to the balcony in summer. Avoid drafts.

Succulents tolerate temperature extremes well, especially during the day and at night. The optimum temperature in summer is +25 -30 degrees during the day and 15-18 degrees at night (in summer you can move the plant to the balcony). AT winter time during the day the optimum temperature is 15-20 degrees of heat, at night 13-15.

Fertilizer

It must be remembered that succulents cannot be fed in winter, when they are in a dormant period, and immediately after transplantation. Top dressing can be done in spring - summer during the growth period, in moderation. It is better to purchase special fertilizers for cacti and succulents in flower shops. If you choose from universal fertilizers, you should avoid excess Nitrogen (N) in the composition, because. it encourages root rot. It is better to use fertilizers, in which the content of Potassium (K) will be the first, the second Phosphorus (P).

According to reviews, a good fertilizer for cacti and succulents "Pocon" has an approximate cost of 250 rubles. for 250 ml.

Potential Growing Problems and Diseases

Succulents rarely suffer from external pests, but it happens that thrips or nematodes are introduced into the roots of plants (this will happen if the earth and filler were taken from the site and not properly processed). In this case, you will have to propagate the plant with a tip, or transplant with a complete cleansing of the roots from the old soil and treating them with disinfectant solutions.

Most often, inexperienced succulent lovers are faced with such a problem as plant rotting, which can quickly destroy the plant. To prevent rot, it is recommended to observe the irrigation regime, and add charcoal to the soil when transplanting.

• brown spots on leaves and shoots - may mean that the fungus Botrytis has wound up in the plant, which can cause leaf rotting. What to do: cut off the affected leaves, reduce the watering of the plant (leave the soil dry for a couple of days), and treat the plant with a special fungicide solution, for example, Maxim.
• Brown spots with an unpleasant odor - It's Erwinia bacterium, started up in your plant. What to do: remove damaged parts of the plant, reduce watering, treat with a solution of potassium permanganate.

In order to prevent rot, you need to water the succulent less often and periodically examine the leaves for the presence of rot.

• The plant has an unhealthy red or green tinge, cloudy dew, or spots white color- spores of fungi such as aspergillosis or penigillosis. What to do: treat the affected leaves with an alkaline solution (for example, soda) or a solution of potassium permanganate.
• The plant died quickly., there were no external signs of the disease - most likely, the root system was infected with nematoses. What to do: if healthy leaves remain on the plant, they can be propagated and the dead plant thrown away with the ground. The pot is well disinfected. At the next planting of the succulent, add charcoal to the soil, observe the irrigation regime.
• leaf burns - it is likely that you left the plant in the open sun, after hibernation, or after shopping in a store. What to do: gradually accustom the plant to bright sunlight.

Useful care video

Almost every housewife starts a small flower garden at home so that beautiful representatives of the flora bloom and smell all year round. Flowers, ornamental trees, dwarf palm trees, miniature shrubs and many other plants find shelter under the roof of a human house, decorating and adding variety to his life.

But, in addition to classic plants, pets from the desert are also kept in apartments and houses. We will talk about how to care for succulents at home, the basic rules for their maintenance, cultivation and transplantation in this article.

Succulents types and names with a description (photo)

Here is a list of the most common succulents in the home:

Did you know? Succulents get their name from the thick, sap-filled leaves. The word "succulent" comes from the Latin "sucus", which means "juice, resin". Their leaves store precious water for the plant to survive in the extremely hot desert climate.

• . This genus is represented by two plants named American agave and Queen Victoria agave. Both plants are quite widely used in home gardening, due to their unpretentious requirements. In appearance, the agave looks like a kind of Christmas tree in miniature: it has long pointed leaves of light green shades wrapped up, which are collected in a kind of rosette, most often symmetrical. Such a circular arrangement of leaves and their symmetry make the agave an interesting plant for interiors;
  
• . A rare-flowering tree-like representative of succulents, which can also often be found on window sills in apartments and houses. The plant is distinguished by the presence of a thick and powerful brown trunk, covered with small plates, from which thin green shoots grow. Their edges are crowned with one or more small fleshy oval leaves of rich green color;
  
• adromiscus. Moisture and heat-loving adromiscus differs from the rest in its original leaves. Not only are they arranged in the shape of a circle, they are also covered with a whitish fluff, while getting an interesting spotty color - from dark green at the edges to white in the center. Such a plant does not bloom, but its leaves are already very beautiful;
  
• . One of the most familiar plants for us is aloe. It has a central stem, from which long pointed leaves-stems originate, arranged in a circle. Depending on the variety, aloe can have a spotted or solid color in all shades of green;
  

Did you know?The properties of aloe have been used since ancient times: Queen Cleopatra herself used masks based on aloe vera to rejuvenate and moisturize the skin, Alexander the Great used it for medicinal purposes to heal the wounds of his soldiers; Christopher Columbus treated sailors with aloe during long voyages.





Did you know?In Latin America, cows are fed thorny prickly pear to increase their milk yield.




In planting succulents of any kind, some rules should be followed, despite the general unpretentiousness of these plants:

1. In the case of reproduction by leaves, fragments of rosettes, stems, etc., you first need about three days keep the cut part in the room, for example, on the windowsill, to let it dry slightly. Further, the fragment can be dug in any free space flower pot for further growth.
2. Planting should be shallow, so that a third of the leaf, cutting or fragment of the outlet is visible from the ground, otherwise the process will simply rot.
3. Do not neglect the special solutions that are sold in stores (Bona Forte, Pokon, Gilea). They will help strengthen the root system, and also act as a regular fertilizer, accelerating growth and strengthening the health of the plant.

Did you know?Accessories with succulents are a fashionable and modern trend. The use of succulents is truly amazing in variety - there are even decorations with live plants. With proper handling, they can be worn for quite a long time.

How to grow succulents from seeds

The planting container must have a depth of at least 3 cm. A soil consisting of ordinary garden soil half with coarse sand. It is added to the soil before planting the seeds, which will absorb excess moisture, preventing the seed from rotting.

Some plants (like aloe) can be successfully sown even on a clean one. Seeds are not sprinkled with earth, but simply left on the surface. After the container is covered with a film or glass.

The optimum temperature for growing is 20 ... 25 degrees above zero. It is also not necessary to achieve overdrying of the soil, regular watering is useful for seedlings. seedlings require good lighting. If you are planting in autumn or winter, then you need to illuminate with lamps until the 12-hour daylight hours.

The first shoots appear in a couple of weeks, in some plants - in a month. When the plants reach a size of about 1 cm, they are transplanted into separate pots.

Video: how to sow succulents

Planters for succulents

The choice of pots for succulents is an absolutely individual matter and is considered by each gardener in terms of their own tastes and preferences. Someone chooses natural materials like clay, but it is worth remembering that clay pots contribute to faster evaporation of moisture, since water also evaporates through the porous walls.

Others prefer plastic, wood, stone, wickerwork and many other varieties.

The main task of the gardener is to replace the small pot, in which succulents are usually sold, as quickly as possible, with a more capacious one, because not a single plant will actively develop in such small-sized conditions. Therefore, space and comfort for the plant will become the main requirements for planters. And the shape, material, color and decor will remain a matter of your tastes.

How often to water succulents

The best conditions for growing succulents were created by nature itself. Dry desert regions with incredible daily temperature differences of more than 25 degrees are the most suitable conditions for plants. Of course, at home you will not be able to recreate such a climate. But your task is to get as close to them as possible.

Important!The best way to determine if a plant needs to be watered is to check the surface soil for moisture. If the ground on the surface is dry or even covered with a crust, then you can add a new portion of moisture, and if, on the contrary, moist soil is hidden under the top crust, then a new watering will kill the root system and ruin your pet.

So, watering should be carried out no more than once every three to four days, and even better once a week - even when the soil dries out, succulents are able to withstand it quite calmly. For them, such stress will only benefit. Much worse when there is too much water. Then all representatives of the cactus will quickly fester and disappear.

How to transplant succulents

The main period for transplanting succulents is considered to be early spring. It was at this time, when active sap flow has not yet begun, new buds have not appeared or flowering has not begun, that it is important to have time to transplant.

Due to the peculiarities of the natural habitat of succulents, their root system develops more in depth than to the sides. Thus, they receive more nutrients and moisture, which quickly evaporates from the surface.

In addition, succulents also do not need surface roots due to the very hot sun, which literally burns them out. In case of transplantation, dig carefully, inserting the scapula as vertically as possible 5-7 centimeters from the trunk, so you do not injure the root system.

Having deepened the scapula well into the ground, sample the excess earth around, while not touching the part that is closer to the root. With a clod of earth, the plant is transferred to a new place of growth, where it is generously sprinkled with a new substrate.

Important!Young cacti are especially in need of transplants. Such a procedure for them needs to be done once a year. At the same time, for pets older than five years, transplantation is carried out once every two years.

For succulents, you need to use a special soil composition that will be as close as possible to desert substrates. Ready-made soil for cacti can be purchased at specialized stores. Also, do not neglect additional fertilizers so that your pet will quickly take root in a new place.

Video: soil mixture for succulents

How to propagate succulents

There are many ways to propagate succulents, among which the first place is germination from individual elements of the rosette, including stems, leaves, parts of leaves, etc. After separating the intended propagation material from the main stem, leave it for a couple of days to dry in the open air.

In the world of flora, succulents occupy a special position. Representing a large group of plants, they are not related to each other. Numerous association arose, in the literal sense, on arid soil. The conditions in which these plants grow, and the conditions that have developed under their influence appearance flowers, allowed scientists to identify representatives of various families in a separate detachment.

All succulents are characterized by the presence of a dense cover of bristles, hairs, spines. All succulent plants are full-bodied and decorated with fleshy trunks and leaves with a bluish bloom. Both cover and plaque are included in the arsenal protective equipment plants that protect them from death in the absence of moisture. Moreover, it is successfully accumulated by plants in leaves and trunks. The search for water in the depths of the earth is occupied by a powerfully developed root system of succulents.

decorative application

The imposing appearance and amazing adaptability to mean care have made succulent flowers a favorite of landscape designers. Today they are experiencing the peak of popularity and are actively used for arranging alpine slides, rockeries, creating original compositions from succulents in pots.

Considering that the group includes representatives of forty separate families, the decorative possibilities of these plants increase significantly. Agave and kalanchoe, gules and bromeliads, ragwort and glotiphyllum, aiz and aloe allow you to make compositions of amazing beauty in gardens, greenhouses, and on window sills. Succulents are great for framing ponds and pools. Just don't confuse cacti and succulents, since prickly exotics are a family of their own. However, they have so adopted the features of their opponents that they share a decorative demand with them.

Care

The unpretentiousness of plants is so high that even a child can grow succulents at home. And yet, in order not to offend such a large group with a cool attitude, there are certain rules for caring for them.

AT temperature regime plants prefer moderation. It is also important for them that the daytime temperature differs from the nighttime temperature by 4-5 degrees.

In terms of illumination, most succulents prefer bright light, but there are species that need a little shading.

In watering, you should focus on the degree of dryness of the soil. However, it is well known that indoor succulents, left unattended for a week or two, perfectly survive the lack of moisture, because they are naturally ready for this.

The soil is preferred breathable and crumbly. For indoor succulents, it is important to provide a good layer of drainage.

Planting and reproduction

For all succulents, home care begins with proper fit. The landing container should be almost flat. As a substrate, use ordinary forest soil mixed with 1/4 river sand and 1/5 charcoal.

Succulents are propagated by stem cuttings and leaves. The separated stalk cannot be placed in water; it must be allowed to dry for two days, and then planted immediately in the ground. The leaves are simply laid on damp ground, leaving them open. Best time for breeding from April to August.

If you use succulent seeds for propagation, you should choose well-ripened and fresh material. It is difficult to get one at home, so you should stop at a simpler one, vegetative way breeding.

Important! If you want your homemade succulents to bloom regularly, keep them in ascetic conditions, with poor soil, minimal watering and in a flat pot.

Kinds

For those who are just learning about succulents and caring for them, we have prepared the top 10 most popular species.

Agave Victoria Regina - a representative of leaf varieties. It is interesting for its spherical shape, which is created from dense, 15-20 cm long leaves, with white stripes along the edges. It is photophilous, does not tolerate excess moisture, responding to it with decay of the base of the outlet.

Euphorbia Mil or "crown of thorns", the most popular succulent among beginner gardeners. It is a thorny shrub, the tops of the stems of which are decorated with elongated, dull green leaves. The flowers are collected in complex inflorescences and are painted in white, pink and yellow shades.

Echeveria agave well known to many gardeners. As with all succulents, home care for this species does not require great effort. If we talk about decorative qualities, then it is enough to imagine a green rose without a stem, with fleshy leaves covered with a waxy coating. Under favorable conditions, it blooms in early summer, releasing 30-40 cm arrows with red-yellow flowers at the tops.

Stapelia - one of the most decorative species. Both the shape of the flower and the color are admired by everyone who sees it. However, it is worth inhaling the aroma of the slipway flower, and an annoying disappointment sets in: a steady amber of carrion hits your nose. The plant is pollinated by flies, which is why it smells in such a way as to attract insects. But, despite such a controversial argument, gardeners are happy to place slipways in rockeries and alpine slides.

Reading: 3 minutes

Experienced flower growers claim that Succulents do not require special care and reproduce easily. It's really like this: Succulents are much easier to grow than many other plants. In this article, we will tell you about small tricks that will make it easier for you to propagate Succulents.

Below we will talk about the method that many flower growers use: it will require the leaves of a healthy plant. Of course, depending on the climate, our tips may work with varying degrees of effectiveness, but for many they work.

New roots emerging from the leaf

Find out how easy it is to propagate succulents. To do this, you can use the plant that you already have, as well as our step by step guide for breeding succulents from leaves at home!

How to separate a sheet

Everything will depend on the type and type of your Succulent.. For example, most tender Sedums, as well as some Echeverias, can be propagated either by leaf or cuttings. On the other hand, Aeoniums (Aeonium) are propagated only by apical cuttings. That is why you cannot breed them with leaflets.

In other words, all varieties of Succulents are different, so if you don't know what works for you, just experiment! And in order to separate the leaf, just twist it from the stem. The main thing is to make sure that nothing is left on the stem. In fact, it is best to pull the leaf a little.

If you damage the leaf and part of it remains on the stem, most likely nothing will work out. When done correctly, you should be able to see a clear outline at the base of the separated sheet.

plant cuttings

To cut a succulent, you will need cutting board, as well as sharp scissors or secateurs. Cut off a piece of the succulent stem just above the leaves. You can cut off the top of the plant, or just cut off the offshoot. Both will grow!

Dry the seedlings

After you cut a cutting or leaf, it is very important that it dries out a little. Depending on the amount of heat and intensity of sunlight, you can leave the seedling for a day or two to dry out.

A sprout sprouting from a leaf

If you don't do this, there will be too much moisture in the cutting or leaf, so it may rot the first time you water it. It is perfectly normal if, after planting, the leaf begins to shrink and shrink a little. As soon as you notice this, you need to water the seedling.

Watering

Adult succulents do not need daily watering, but the leaves and cuttings need to be watered fairly frequently. Lack of moisture will result in seedlings turn brown and die.

The best way to land

If you are using leaves place them on the surface of the soil making sure that their ends do not touch the ground. Water whenever the soil dries out. You can use a sprayer (pulverizer) to maintain moisture in the upper layers of the soil.

Unlike leaves, cuttings must be planted in soil. Since these are practically adult Succulents, all they need is plant and water them. They will start growing! Like leaves, cuttings should be watered every time the soil is dry. This is how the leaves laid out on the substrate look like:

The cuttings and leaves will begin to grow new roots and take root within 3-4 weeks of planting.

If some of them die- don't worry - more than half will sprout! Some of them will grow very slowly, while others will have many roots and no leaves at all. Each cutting grows differently, and it's perfectly normal if it fails to germinate!

As new plants develop, be careful to keep the roots covered with soil, otherwise they will dry out and the flower will stop growing.

In addition to the article, watch an informative video on growing Succulents from a leaf:

Most succulents will take at least a few months to mature, but some take up to a year. All in all, it's not a fast process but it works! Try it, and very soon replenishment will appear in your collection of home flowers.