When living in an apartment building, there are no problems with grounding - each storey electrical panel is a ready-made ground loop. But if you live in a private house or in a country house, it is not necessary to invite paid specialists, because you can make a grounding device in a private house with your own hands. 220 V is a strong current supply, so ignoring grounding is life threatening.

Before taking on independent production ground loop, you need to figure it out, Why do electrical appliances need to be grounded?. This will help to take a responsible attitude both to the choice of the scheme and materials of the ground loop, and to the process of its manufacture.

Interference protection

The problem of interference concerns mainly owners of high-quality sound reproducing/recording equipment and PCs. The network filters built into such devices “collect” impulse noise from the mains and send them to the chassis of the device, and in the case of a PC, to a metal casing.

A fragment of the PC power supply circuit (the filter is circled in red)

If the body of the device is not connected to the ground (PE terminal on the mains plug), then all interference remains on the casing and creates an electromagnetic field around it, which interferes with signal wires, microphones, headphones.

Anyone who has encountered such a problem knows that it is difficult to get rid of such interference. No shielding and super cables solve the problem - pickup from the case penetrates into external devices even along the shielding braid connecting wire. But it is worth connecting the case of the same PC to a central heating battery or water supply, as the background in headphones or speakers disappears in the most miraculous way.

If the interference in sound reproduction is, although serious, but only an inconvenience, then the voltage that has fallen on the casing of the device for one reason or another can be life-threatening. The worst thing is that equipment malfunction during insulation breakdown on the case often does not manifest itself in any way- the device works and looks absolutely fine. But as soon as a person touches the casing of the same washing machine, how a current begins to flow through his body into the ground (damp floor, tile, concrete), the value of which, even at 50–80 mA, is deadly:

Electric shock to a person when touching faulty equipment

To eliminate such a situation, it is enough to connect the body of the device to the ground, and even a faulty washing machine or dishwasher will not pose any threat to a person. With an incomplete breakdown, the voltage from the casing will simply drain into the ground through a special bus, while a complete breakdown of the insulation will cause short circuit and actuation of protective equipment - a fuse in the device, a machine on the landing or in a house shield.

It is absolutely safe to touch faulty but grounded equipment

For a quick and easy connection to earth, all devices that require earthing are supplied with a special mains plug with earthing contacts or a grounding terminal.

Contacts marked with arrows are grounding

How to make a ground loop

From the foregoing, it can be seen that not only convenience and tranquility, but also people's lives depend on the reliability of grounding. Therefore, the manufacture of the contour must be approached extremely seriously. Do you know how to hold a shovel and a hacksaw in your hands and are you confident in your abilities? Then get to work! But before finding out how to properly make grounding in a private house, it is necessary to decide what to make it from and what design to choose.

Design choice

The main task that needs to be solved in the manufacture of grounding is a good electrical contact of the circuit with the ground. It would seem that the simplest solution is to dig in a voluminous metal object.

If you have a couple of old but strong barrels at your disposal, a rear axle from KAMAZ or something similar, then the option is quite feasible. You weld a metal tire to an object, dig in the object itself, and bring the tire to the surface. But, simple in appearance, this method has a lot of disadvantages:

A much more reliable and durable grounding can be obtained using long pins driven into the ground to a certain depth and electrically connected to each other. The key factor here is the number of pins and their length. By design, these types of grounding are divided:

• linear;
• voluminous.

Linear grounding consists of a series of pins driven into the ground and connected in series. The volumetric type implies several pins driven in a circle and connected into a ring.

Linear (left) and volumetric types of ground loops

In principle, both types provide high-quality grounding of equipment, a small difference is only in reliability. If one of the jumpers in the linear grounding is broken, a certain number of grounding pins are excluded from operation, which leads to an increase in the resistance of the grounding loop.

The electrical characteristics of the three-dimensional structure are practically not affected. Nevertheless, with high-quality jumpers, the probability of such an accident is small, therefore, when choosing the type of grounding, it makes sense to be guided only by the expediency and convenience of manufacturing a particular design, depending on specific conditions.

Material Options

Do not save on materials - after all, from them right choice your safety depends. As pins, a corner from 40x40 and above is ideal. It is strong enough, which is important when driving, and has a large surface area for minimal contact resistance. If there is no corner at your disposal, then a thick-walled water pipe or a pin with a diameter of at least 15-20 mm will do.

There is an opinion that fittings cannot be used as grounding pins - they allegedly quickly rust. This statement is absolutely groundless - the corrosion resistance of the reinforcement is no worse than the resistance of the same corner or pipe, and it is much easier to drive in the reinforcement than, say, a soft rod. So if you have rebar with a diameter of 16 mm and above, you can safely use it. In this case, the length of the pins must be at least 2 m, and their number depends on the type of grounding you have chosen, but at least three pieces.

As jumpers, an iron strip (tire) with a width of 15 mm and a thickness of 5 mm is ideal. Such a section was chosen solely for reasons of durability, since even an eight-millimeter wire rod can withstand the emergency short circuit current. It just rots faster and is harder to cook. An ordinary corner or fittings of the corresponding section will also go for jumpers, but this, of course, will cost more. In any case, all materials should not have a dielectric coating - paints, mastics, etc.

Manufacturing process

If you have picked up the right materials, you have a shovel at your disposal, welding machine, a sledgehammer and a hacksaw, then you can start work. The entire manufacturing process of the contour can be reduced to the following basic operations:

1. Markup.
2. Trench dig.
3. Driving in ground pins.
4. Connecting the pins to each other with jumpers and bringing the grounding bus to the surface.
5. Trench backfill.
6. Checking the quality of grounding.

Regardless of the circuit design you choose, you must use a minimum of 3 pins spaced at least 1.5-2 m apart. If your household plot- solid lawn, it is most convenient to use linear diagram by digging a contour along the wall of a building or garden path.

Having marked the place for the pins, you can proceed to digging a shallow (20–30 cm) trench connecting the marking points. There is no point in digging deeper - a bus laid in a trench will play the role of jumpers, not grounding. It rusts, contrary to the opinion of "specialists", in exactly the same way at any depth. The main purpose of the trench is to hide the tire so that people don't trip over it.

Since there is a lot of free space near the house, the “triangle” scheme was chosen

Now the most responsible and difficult operation is driving in the grounding pins. To do this, their ends must be cut at an angle of about 30 degrees. You can drive in with an ordinary sledgehammer, but some use an ordinary puncher for this purpose.

Ground pins can be driven in with a sledgehammer or puncher

The pins are hammered to the full length, only the ends 10–20 cm long remain on the surface. Jumpers will be welded to them. After all the pins are clogged, they need to be connected to each other with a bus. To do this, it is better to use welding - it is much more durable and reliable than a bolted connection.

A welded connection (left) is less aesthetically pleasing, but much more reliable than a bolted one.

Immediately weld a branch bus to the almost finished structure - the house circuit will be connected to it.

Outlet bus and the option of connecting a house circuit to it

It remains to paint over the welding spots with any paint or mastic, wait for it to dry and fill the trench. If possible, it is advisable to make it with sand for better drainage - and the tire will last longer, and the ground around the pins will be more wet. If sand is unacceptable for technical or aesthetic reasons, then you can use the earth - that's okay. Sleep, plant grass. Question. you decided how to make grounding in a private house, but the circuit must be checked.

Now you need to make sure that the circuit is securely connected to the ground electrically and can act as an emergency ground. For verification, you can call power engineers with special equipment for a fee, but it is quite possible to conduct high-quality tests on our own.

To do this, you will need any powerful electrical appliance with a power of about 1 kW. An electric stove, iron, heater, etc. will do. You also need a voltage indicator (indicator screwdriver), a piece of wire and an AC voltmeter.

Using the pointer, find the phase in the outlet and measure the voltage between it and your ground. Record the instrument readings. Now connect the device between phase and circuit. He should earn quite well. Repeat the measurement and compare with the readings obtained without load. If the voltage under load drops by no more than 10-15 V, then the ground loop can be considered working.

Grounding test circuit (a light bulb is conventionally shown as a load)

If the voltage drop is greater, repeat the measurement operation, but now use the regular zero in the outlet instead of the circuit. It also drops a lot - your electrical wiring cannot cope even with a relatively small load and it's not about grounding. If there is not a big drop, then you will have to add a few more ground pins to your circuit and repeat the tests.

Today, almost every country house is equipped with electrical appliances. The safety of their operation is ensured by connecting the electrical equipment installed in the premises with a grounding device. Properly executed protective grounding will eliminate the possibility of electric shock to people and prevent failure household appliances and complex technical devices from overvoltage, if they are protected by SPDs. The choice of connection scheme depends on various factors. In a private house, unlike an apartment building, grounding can be done independently. This guide will help you figure out how to connect it.

The main elements of the scheme for connecting the grounding of a country house and the rules for their implementation

Ground connection diagram in country house looks like this: electrical appliance - socket - electrical panel - ground conductor - ground loop - earth.

The connection begins with the implementation of a grounding device on the local area in accordance with the rules defined in chapter 1.7 of the PUE of the 7th edition. The ground electrode is a metal structure with a large area of ​​contact with the ground. Designed to equalize the potential difference and reduce the potential of grounded equipment, in case of a short circuit to the case or the appearance of excess voltage in the mains. The design and depth of its installation is determined based on the resistance of the soil in the area (for example, dry sand or wet black soil).

From the grounding device (grounding) made at the site, we lay a grounding conductor, which we connect to the main grounding bus using a bolted connection, clamp or welding. We select a conductor with a cross section of at least 6 mm2 for copper and 50 mm2 for steel, while it must meet the requirements for protective conductors specified in table 54.2 of GOST R 50571.5.54-2013, and for a TT system have a cross section of at least 25 mm2 for copper. If the conductor is bare and laid in the ground, then its cross section must correspond to that given in table 54.1 GOST R GOST R 50571.5.54-2013.

In the switchboard, the grounding conductor is connected through the grounding bus to the protective conductors laid to sockets with a grounding contact and other electrical receivers in the house. As a result, each electrical appliance is connected to the grounding system.

Dependence of the ground connection scheme on the ground loop

If re-grounding is performed at the power line pole, then the grounding connection scheme in a country house is performed using the TN-C-S or TT systems. When the condition of the networks does not cause concern, the re-grounding of the line should be used as the grounding device of the house and the house should be connected in accordance with the TN-C-S grounding system. If the overhead line is old, or the quality of re-grounding is questionable, it is better to choose a TT system and equip an individual grounding device in the local area.

For a grounding device, first of all, natural ground electrodes should be used - third-party conductive parts that have direct contact with the ground (water pipes, well pipes, metal and reinforced concrete structures country house And so on). (see paragraphs 1.7.54, 1.7.109 of the EIC of the 7th edition).

In the absence of such, we perform an artificial grounding device using vertical or horizontal electrodes that we dig into the ground. The choice of the configuration of the ground electrode is mainly based on the required resistance and the characteristics of the local area.

It is most effective to use if the soil in your area is represented by loam, peat, sand saturated with water, watered with clay. The standard length of the rods is from 1.5 to 3 m. When choosing the length of the vertical electrodes, we proceed from the water saturation of the host rocks in the area. Buried ground vertical ground electrodes are combined with a horizontal electrode, for example, a strip, and to minimize shielding, they are located at a distance commensurate with the length of the pins themselves.

Dependence of the connection scheme on the type of grounding system

Grounding of housing facilities is carried out according to the following systems: TN (subsystems TN-C, TN-S, TN-C-S) or TT. The first letter in the name indicates the grounding of the power source, the second - the grounding of open parts of electrical equipment.

Subsequent letters after N indicate the combination in one conductor or the separation of the functions of the zero working and zero protective conductors. S - zero working (N) and zero protective (PE) conductors are separated. C - the functions of the zero protective and zero working conductors are combined in one conductor (PEN-conductor).

Electrical safety is fully ensured when a decrease in the resistance of the ground electrode does not entail an increase in the indicators of the ground fault current. Consider how the grounding connection scheme depends on the system implemented at the facility electrical network.

TN-S earthing system

Figure 1. TN-S system

At facilities equipped with a power grid using the TN-S system, zero working and protective conductors separated along the entire length, and in the event of a breakdown of the phase insulation, the emergency current is diverted through the protective PE conductor. RCD devices and difavtomat, reacting to the appearance of current leakage through a protective zero, turn off the network with the load.

The advantage of the TN-S grounding subsystem is the reliable protection of electrical equipment and a person from damage by emergency current when using electrical networks. Due to this, this system is referred to as the most modern and safe.

To perform grounding according to the TN-S system, a gasket is required from transformer substation a separate ground wire to your building, which will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the project. For this reason, for grounding private sector facilities, the TN-S grounding subsystem is practically not used.

TN-C earthing system. The need to switch to TN-C-S

Figure 2. TN-S system

Grounding according to the TN-C system is most common for old housing stock buildings. The advantage is that it is economical and easy to implement. A significant drawback is the lack of a separate PE conductor, which excludes the presence of grounding in the sockets of a country house and the possibility of potential equalization in the bathroom.

Electric current is supplied to suburban buildings through overhead lines. Two conductors are suitable for the building itself: phase L and combined PEN. You can connect grounding only if there is a three-core wiring in a private house, which requires the conversion of the TN-C system to TN-C-S, by separating the zero working and zero protective conductor into electrical panel(see paragraph 1.7.132 of the EIC of the 7th edition).

Grounding connection according to the TN-C-S system

The TN-C-S grounding subsystem is characterized by the union of the zero working and zero protective conductors in the area from power lines to the entrance to the building. Grounding on this system is quite simple in technical design, due to which it is recommended for wide application. The disadvantage is the need for constant modernization, in order to avoid breaking the PEN conductor, as a result of which electrical appliances may be at a dangerous potential.

Let's consider the grounding connection scheme in a country house according to the TN-C-S system using the example of transition to it from the TN-C system.

Figure 3. Schematic of the main switchboard

As already noted, in order to obtain a three-core wiring, it is necessary to properly separate the PEN conductor in the switchboard at home. We start with the fact that we install a bus in the electrical panel with a strong metal connection with it, and connect the combined PEN conductor coming from the side of the power line to this bus. We connect the PEN bus with a jumper to the next installed PE bus. Now the PEN bus acts as a bus of the zero working conductor N.

Figure 4. Earth connection diagram (transition from TN-C to TN-C-S)

Figure 5. TN-C-S ground connection diagram

Having completed the indicated connections, we connect the switchboard to the ground electrode: from the grounding device we start the PE busbar. Thus, as a result of a simple upgrade, we equipped the house with three separate wires (phase, zero protective and zero working).

The rules for the installation of electrical installations require re-grounding for PE - and PEN-conductors at the input to electrical installations, using, first of all, natural grounding conductors, the resistance of which at a mains voltage of 380/220 V should be no more than 30 Ohm (see clause 1.7 .103 PUE 7th edition).

TT earth connection

Figure 6. TT system

Another variant of the scheme is to connect the grounding of a country house using the TT system with a solidly grounded neutral of the current source. The open conductive elements of the electrical equipment of such a system are connected to a grounding device that does not have an electrical connection with the grounding conductor of the neutral of the power source.

In this case, the following condition must be observed: the value of the product of the tripping current of the protection device (Ia) and the total resistance of the grounding conductor and the ground electrode (Ra) should not exceed 50 V (see clause 1.7.59 of the Electrical Installation Code). Ra Ia ≤ 50 V.

To comply with this condition, “Instructions for the device of protective grounding and potential equalization in electrical installations” And 1.03-08 recommends making a grounding device with a resistance of 30 ohms. This system is quite in demand today and is used for private, mainly mobile buildings, when it is impossible to provide a sufficient level of electrical safety with the TN system.

TT grounding does not require separation of the combined PEN conductor. Each of the individual wires suitable for the house is connected to a bus isolated from the electrical panel. And the PEN conductor itself, in this case, is considered the neutral wire (zero).

Figure 7. TT earth connection diagram

Figure 8. Connection diagram for grounding and RCD according to the TT system

As follows from the diagram, TN-S and TT systems are very similar to each other. The difference lies in the complete absence of an electrical connection between the grounding device and the PEN conductor in the CT, which, in the event that the latter burns out from the power source, guarantees the absence of excess voltage on the case electrical appliances. This is the obvious advantage of the TT system, providing a higher level of safety and reliability in operation. The disadvantage of its use can only be called high cost, since in order to protect users with indirect contact, it is necessary to install additional devices protective shutdown power supply (RCD and voltage relay), which, in turn, requires approbation and certification by an energy supervision specialist.

Conclusion

The grounding scheme in general terms is a connection of its elements: electrical equipment, input distribution board, grounding conductor PE, ground electrode.

To install a grounding device in a country house, you need to understand the features of its connection, depending on the following factors:

• way of powering the electrical network ( air lines or cable from a transformer substation)
• type of soil in the adjacent area where the ground loop is performed.
• the presence of a lightning protection system, additional power supplies or specific equipment.

When making the grounding connection yourself, you must be guided by the provisions of section 1.7 of the Electrical Installation Rules. If it is impossible to use natural grounding conductors, we perform a grounding device using artificial grounding conductors. Grounding of a private house can be performed using two systems: TN-C-S or TT. Most wide application received a modernized system TN-C - TN-C-S, due to the simplicity of its technical execution. To ensure the electrical safety of a country house according to the TN-C-S system, it is required to separate the PEN conductor into zero working and zero protective conductors.

Having completed the ground loop, it is necessary to check the quality of its installation, and to measure the resistance for compliance with the PUE standards using special instruments, which may require the involvement of specialists.

Do you need advice on the organization of grounding and lightning protection for your facility? Contact

A properly equipped grounding system of a private house is a guarantee of the safety of both the building itself and everything in it, as well as its residents. Creating a ground loop is quite simple work. You can handle it on your own.

There is a protective working ground. The main purpose of protective grounding is to provide reliable protection of residents from electric shock, and electrical equipment from breakdown in case of various kinds of network failures. If the system includes a lightning rod, which is highly desirable in private households, grounding will also protect against lightning strikes.

Working grounding is primarily responsible for protecting electrical appliances from breakdown in various kinds of emergencies. In private construction, it is activated only in the event of failures.

For most household appliances and electronics, an ordinary grounding through a modern euro socket is sufficient. However, it is recommended to ground something “tightly”, namely:

• washing machine. This technique has serious electrical capacitance. In conditions of high humidity, the machine can be relatively safe, but still unpleasant to “pinch”;
• microwave. main working body microwave ovens are high power magnetrons. If the outlet fails, the microwave will begin to “siphon” at a level that is extremely unfavorable for humans. The back panels of many microwave ovens are equipped with a special terminal for a separate ground electrode;
• electric ovens, induction cookers(modern built-in hobs). The design features of these products are such that the probability of breakdown remains at a fairly high level. high level, so a separate grounding will definitely not be superfluous;
• Personal Computer. Attempts by manufacturers to make computer power supplies as compact as possible have led to the fact that the level of normal operating leakage of the mentioned units is at the level of a stylish machine, or even higher. Such impacts have an extremely negative impact on the performance and condition of computer elements. You can connect a dead ground to any mounting screw on the back of the system unit.

What is the grounding system?

The grounding system consists of a number of important elements. The first one is grounding. Usually there are several. Represent metal conductors driven or dug into the ground.

The optimal length of the earth electrode is 200-300 cm. Specific recommendations on the number and length of the earth electrodes are specified in a separate order at the representative office of the local energy service.

The second important element of the house grounding system is metal bonding. This unit is a metal structure that provides connection of the upper ends of the ground electrodes.

Metal communication is brought into the house as a ground bus. In a private house, there may be several inputs of grounding buses at the same time, however, one of them must necessarily ground the input distribution board.

In the complex, metal communication and grounding conductors are combined into a ground loop.

Electrical installations are connected to the ground bus through grounding conductors. There are flexible and rigid conductors.

In the case of using flexible conductors, it is important that their cross section is at least 4 mm2.

The ground conductor can be transferred to the ground bus. Conductors are connected to this bus through pads. They look like shiny spots coated with grease with pre-prepared bolt holes.

Thanks to the lubrication, oxidation and the development of electrocorrosion will be prevented. Contact pads can have various designations, usually these are black oblique stripes. It is forbidden to carry out continuous painting of grounding buses.

The measurement of the electrical resistance of the metal bond is carried out from the ground terminal of the electrical installation to that part of the circuit that is the most distant from it. On any part of the metal connection, the resistance level should be no more than 0.1 Ohm.

Incorrect grounding

In accordance with the requirements of the relevant regulatory documents, it is forbidden to ground electrical installations on any kind of pipelines.

The nuances of grounding a private house

There are several options for arranging the ground loop. The specific method is selected taking into account the type of soil on the site and the characteristics of the house. Regardless of the chosen method, it is recommended to make earth electrodes from pipes, one of the ends of which is previously flattened into a point.

On the lower section of each pipe (the length of the section should be about 50 cm), 10-15 holes with a diameter of about 5-7 mm are made randomly.

In hot weather, it is recommended to pour saline solution inside the earthing pipes. To prepare it, it is enough to dissolve half a pack of salt in a bucket of clean water. This solution will help maintain the resistance at a normal level.

Ground bars also remain the same regardless of the method chosen. The use of galvanized steel to create a metal bond should be refrained from - the material will very quickly lose its operational properties.

DIY ground loop

After reviewing the theoretical part, you can start creating a ground loop. The work is relatively simple and is carried out in several steps.

First step. Calculate the outline. To do this, you need to find out the value of soil resistance in your area. For this information, consult the relevant reference literature or local authorities. In the same service, you can be given recommended contour parameters. This will save you from unnecessary trouble, because the calculation formulas are quite complex and voluminous.

Second step. Choose a suitable location for the circuit device. Install the circuit in some little-visited place, the minimum distance from the foundation of the building is 100 cm.

Third step. Prepare the electrodes. They can be made from steel corners. The minimum width of the product is 5 cm, the optimal length is 250-300 cm.

Fourth step. Dig a square or triangular hole about 100 cm deep. The electrodes will be placed in the corners of the pit. Therefore, select the depth and width of the pit so that the distance between the installed electrodes is equal to the length of these products.

Fifth step. Drive the prepared electrodes into the corners of the dug hole. A sledgehammer will help you with this.

Sixth step. Weld a strip of metal to the electrode pins. The welded joint must be reliable and of high quality. Be sure to treat the welding points with an anti-corrosion compound, for example, bituminous mastic.

Seventh step. Pull the metal strip up to the introductory shield. Next, you will need to connect the ground bus to the strip.

If it is not possible to use a full-fledged bus, connect a high-quality copper wire to the metal strip. The cross section of this wire must be at least 10 mm2. Use a bolt with a nut to fasten the wire. The point of connection of the metal strip and copper wire treat with an anti-corrosion agent.

Eighth step. Dig the hole. Thoroughly tamp the backfilled soil.

Grounding control after installation

After the ground loop is ready, it should be checked for your own safety. This is done by measuring the resistance of the spreading of electric current in the soil and the level of resistance of the metal bond.

Professional electricians do this with the help of special devices. You can do this with a tool called a megger. Specialized organizations rent such equipment.

These hand-held electric induction megohmmeters are still popular today. They do not contain electronics, they do not need to be connected to the network, they do not create unnecessary noise in the length of the circuit and have many other advantages.

The only thing is that metal bonding cannot be measured with a megger. However, subject to a good connection and correct connection problems with these areas do not arise for decades.

To determine the resistance, it is necessary that a pair of measuring electrodes be at a distance of about 12-15 m from the edge of the metal bond. The electrodes must be carefully cleaned. The measurement is carried out on electrodes buried in the ground by about 70-100 cm and installed at a distance of about 150 cm.

It is important to observe the polarity of the megger connection. Protective earth the house must be able to withstand a lightning strike. Simple lightning has a negative polarity. There are also positive lightning, when a thick column of fire shoots from the ground towards the sky. However, such natural phenomena are extremely rare and have such destructive power that no grounding will help.

Direct measurement with a megohmmeter is performed as follows: you take a tool, turn its handle and study the arrow readings on a pre-installed scale. The optimal indicators were previously mentioned, focus on them.

In no case do not measure grounding using a milliammeter, mains voltage and a special quenching resistor - this is a deadly undertaking.

Thus, the installation of grounding is an extremely important stage in the arrangement of a private house. Pay due attention to this procedure, and your home will become not only convenient and comfortable, but also completely safe.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself grounding of a private house

An important point in the arrangement of housing is grounding in a private house with your own hands 220v. This is a special device that guarantees safety when using electrical appliances, and also serves as protection against short circuits. The need for grounding arises when supplying electricity to a residential building. This equipment can be installed by hand. Special recommendations will help to do this qualitatively and inexpensively. Grounding can be performed for two different networks - 220 and 380 V. In this case, for the second option, it is necessary to perform a special circuit.

Organization of home protection

Grounding in a private house can be done by hand. This method will allow you to output stray currents and prevent the accumulation of static electricity on electrical equipment.

Installation diagram to the ground terminal in the shield

Related article:

With a minimum knowledge of electrical work and with the help of our guide, you will be able to independently carry out the wiring in your home.

The circuit protects residents from electric shock. When the zero phase is interrupted, the body of electrical equipment is a great danger. For such cases, a ground loop is provided, which is a phase through which electricity goes into the ground.

Useful information! The device helps to reduce the risk of fires, overloads, and also increases safety when working with various equipment.

Device and principle of operation

The ground loop is a device of two subsystems: internal and external. The two lines are connected in a switchboard. The second part is placed on the street and consists of electrodes, which are connected by metal plates and dug into the ground.

A metal bus is drawn from such a device, which is connected to the main shield. The principle of operation of the structure is such that when a person contacts electrical equipment, the current rushes into the soil not through the body, but through a special conductor. At the same time, you can do different types grounding in a private house with their own hands. 380v requires a slightly different approach.

Home security device

In humans, the resistance index is 1 kOhm, and in the mechanism - 4 Ohms. Electricity chooses the fastest and easiest path to the ground, which has the lowest resistance.

The grounding device includes:

• A grounding conductor is an element that comes into contact with the ground and produces the descent and distribution of current. In private buildings, natural types of devices from steel pipelines, protective coatings are used. power cable and reinforced concrete part of the foundation or column.
• A grounding conductor is a part that connects electrical installation and grounding.

Three elements of the vertical type are used, as well as three horizontal stripes that connect the vertical elements. The steel strip is used as a conductor between switchboard and ground loop.

During installation, two schemes are used:

• A closed circuit is made in the form of a triangle.
• Linear is performed from series-connected jumpers.

The contour in the form of an isosceles triangle is popular. It is located at a distance of several meters from the foundation of the building. At the same time, a trench is dug into which steel elements are driven in. Then a strip of steel is mounted around the perimeter.

Useful information! In a private house, it is better to use a triangle scheme. Because it is more efficient.

How to organize grounding in a private house with your own hands 220v?

If you do grounding in a private house with your own hands: 380v or 220v options are performed in several stages:

• A hole is created next to the building, which is dug with a shovel.

• A metal corner is mounted at the bottom of the trench.

• A stranded profile is attached to the structure and connected to the shield.

To create the maximum effect, a certain metallic bond. 3-4 corners are welded using a strip of a certain width. In addition to the main process, the following important conditions are met:

• Potential indicators are aligned.
• The voltage drops.
• A device for automatic shutdown is mounted.
• Double insulated wires are used.
• Isolating transformers are used.

Grounding requirements: 220 and 380v

An important parameter during installation is the spreading resistance. This value determines the speed with which the current will overcome the distance to the ground from the surface of the electrical device.

The grounding process requires certain conditions to be met:

• The length of the vertical parts must be at least 16 mm.
• Horizontal - 10 mm.
• The thickness of the metal is at least 4 mm.
• The minimum section for pipes is 32 mm.

Useful information! In the electrical panel, the circuit is connected to a special bus, which is coated with a special lubricant and polished to a shine.

Mounting Features

It is important to choose the right place to install the device. In this place, the presence of a person or animal should be excluded, as this can lead to death.

This area must be carefully fenced off, or covered with some kind of boulder or sculpture. Special rules must be taken into account when doing grounding in a private house with your own hands 220v. The scheme involves the use of ground electrodes, which are driven to a depth of about three meters.

Then the rods are cut 15-20 cm below ground level. Channels are made between them, where connecting elements are laid. Welding is used for fastening. 220v and 380v circuits are different different meaning resistance.

Grounding and lightning rod

Lightning arrester and grounding are two different things. Do-it-yourself grounding in a private house 380v or 220v is aimed at diverting excess electricity to the ground. A lightning rod diverts the electrical atmospheric charge to the ground and only works when lightning strikes.

What is forbidden to do when grounding?

When performing grounding, you should not do the following things:

• You should not mount only one metal rod. For high-quality grounding, one or even two triangles are required.
• Do not use elements with a high density: channel or reinforcement. Due to the durable surface, they will have less contact with the ground.
• Do not install to a depth of less than 1 meter.

Useful advice! Before digging metal parts into the ground, they must be treated with special protective coatings.

Differences in grounding and grounding

Do-it-yourself grounding in a private house 380v is very different from grounding, the scheme of which involves use in other conditions. Zeroing is often used on manufacturing enterprises. Zeroing can only protect against short circuits and does not drain excess electricity. In domestic conditions, such a function is useless. It can even lead to burnout of electrical appliances.

Useful information! When installing a zeroing device, it is worth using a mechanism to turn off the equipment or a voltage limiter.

Which grounding kit to choose: prices and manufacturers

For installation protective circuit in domestic and industrial conditions, ready-made sets of equipment are offered. The following manufacturers are worth considering:

• Galmar is considered a popular manufacturer. The device is designed for installation to a depth of about 30 m. Such a device costs about 40 thousand rubles.
• Domestic manufacturers include products "VOLT-SPB". Installation depth can be from 6 to 30 meters. The cost is from 6 to 26 thousand rubles.
• Zandz devices are considered universal devices. They are mounted to a depth of 10 m.
• Ezetec kits are considered inexpensive. They can cost about 7 thousand rubles.
• Elmast kits are made of stainless steel. They can cost about 7 thousand rubles.

Test work for performance

After the installation work is completed, a mandatory check is carried out. To do this, a light bulb is connected to one end of the circuit. The contour is made correctly if it shines brightly. Also, the performance is checked using a factory device - a multimeter.

Article

Ordinary tenants apartment buildings and private mansions have little idea of ​​what grounding is. Of course, everyone has heard about it, but only a very few understand its structure and represent the principle of operation. Usually these are people of construction professions.

But sometimes even the simplest inhabitants need to arrange grounding in their home. With the seeming complexity of the issue, it is quite simple to make grounding in a private house with your own hands. It will take, of course, some kind of help, but nothing overly complicated or impossible.

How to make grounding at home with your own hands

In any private house, a large number of household appliances work almost around the clock, the lights in the rooms turn on and off periodically, and all this leads to a solid total power consumption. electrical energy. In order to ensure the safety and security of using electrical networks in the house, there must be a grounding device.

The principle of operation of grounding is clearly described in the video. To make the grounding of the network at 220v, it is necessary to build a so-called ground loop. It is a wire that is connected to the main ground bus on the electrical panel and led to a grounding device that is buried in the ground near the house (photo).

Grounding cables extend from the main ground bus to all electrical appliances and power points in the house. Thus, grounding eliminates any negative processes that theoretically (and often practically) can occur inside electrical wiring and appliances that are used in your home.

There can be many situations of this kind: an open phase, the formation of stray currents, a short circuit, etc. Grounding just eliminates any consequences of such emergencies and outputs the current through the grounding device to the ground. The grounding scheme is shown in the photo.

How to make a ground loop

A grounding device, or grounding loop, is a series of metal pins (electrodes) that are connected to each other at one end and buried in the ground at the other end. Typically, "at home" electrodes are made from rebar or angle steel. Less often - from pipes. How to make, hammer into the ground and connect such pins to each other can be seen in the video.

The ground loop most often has the shape of a square or triangle (diagram). The electrodes must be no shorter than 2.5 meters. The edges of the ground loop must either be equal to or be a multiple of them. For example, if the length of the electrode is 2.5 meters, then the contour edges should be either 2.5 or 5 meters. The optimal length of the electrode pins is 2.5-3 meters.

Accordingly, the ground loop may have the following parameters: its sides should be related either as 2.5 x 2.5, or as 3 x 3. The square is sometimes made a little larger (4 x 4 m). It is desirable to sharpen the electrodes at one end. So it will be easier to hammer them into the ground. The pins are welded together into a circuit only after they are buried in the ground.

The process of installing a ground loop looks like this:

1. First, next to the house, you need to dig a trench in the shape of the future contour (square or triangular). Its depth should be 70-80 cm.

2. We cut the reinforcement into pins of 2.5-3 m equal in length. We hammer them in the corners of the trench, as in the video. Be sure to leave small parts of the electrodes above the ground.

3. The tops of the electrodes are interconnected by steel strips. This can be done by welding.

4. A steel strip is welded to one of the corners, which must be brought to the wall of the building.

5. A bolt must be welded to the end of the steel strip using the same electric welding.

6. A 220 V grounding cable leaving the house is attached to the bolt welded in this way. The fastening can be done as follows: roll the cable into a loop and simply put it on the bolt. A nut with a washer is put on top of it and tightened strongly.

7. After that, the trench with the ground loop should simply be covered with earth.

8. The cable is brought, as mentioned earlier, to the ground bus in the switchboard.

Please note: The cross section of the conductor must be more than 75 square meters. mm. Only in this case, grounding will be effective and last a long time.

Alternative Method

There is another - more modern - method of arranging grounding in a private house. For it, not a square or triangular circuit welded from parts is used, but a single long electrode (photo). This method is called modular-pin, because the ground electrode is a very long (6, 10 or more meters) pin, consisting of individual modules.

For obvious reasons, driving such a long electrode into the ground is simply impossible. That is why the modules are buried one by one, joining each other one by one (video). The standard module length is 1.5 m. It is made of a steel bar (D = 17-25 mm) coated with copper. Copper has anti-corrosion properties.

Each such module ends with a pointed steel tip, which helps to drive it into the ground. On the other side of the module is a brass sleeve into which the next module is inserted.

Thus, each module of our long electrode is driven into the ground with a perforator, after which the next module is attached to its open part (coupling). And so on, segment by segment, until the entire electrode is sunk into the ground.

Sequence of work:

1. A small hole is dug in the ground 0.3 x 0.3 m. Depth = 0.3 m.

2. A steel tip is put on the module on one side. This end of the pin plunges into the ground.

3. A sleeve is put on its other end.

4. To make it easier to work with a hammer drill, a round head bolt can be screwed into the coupling.

5. The pin is buried in the ground by 1.2 m. A small piece of the pin with a coupling remains above the ground.

6. The bolt is removed from the coupling.

7. Then a little anti-corrosion paste is poured into it and the next module is inserted. After that, the whole story repeats itself.

8. The very last module is clogged deep enough. Its coupling should be located directly above the ground surface.

9. It must be unscrewed and replaced with a brass clamp.

10. A steel strip (30 x 5 mm) is attached to the clamp, which can be quite successfully replaced by a steel cable (D = 10 mm). The connection point must be insulated with a rubberized tape.

11. Then the pit is filled up.

Such a modular pin circuit is sold ready-made. Go to any hardware store. It can be seen that the device for such grounding is quite simple. The only recommendation: be sure to choose the correct length of the electrode pin. It must be buried in the soil below the level of its freezing (this is 6-8 modules on average).