Plasterboard ceiling installation. Step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the ceiling

The article describes the rules of installation false ceiling from GKL. We tried to make a simple technological map, where close attention is paid to the most difficult moments for beginners.

Almost no repair is now complete without the creation of suspended ceilings. Among all the available cladding options, drywall proved to be the most practical and functional. Using drywall systems, the developer has the opportunity to level the ceiling with any existing curvature, to lay electrical cables, air ducts and other communications in the space between the ceilings, to decorate the room with complex spatial forms.

single level ceiling

The technology of filing a ceiling in one level has many similarities with plasterboard wall cladding, the same metal profile is used here, based on the same installation principles. But there are also many differences, we will try not to lose sight of them.

A simple one-tier cladding is used very often, but even if it is planned to manufacture a multi-level structure, you first need to make a flat ceiling for the entire room, which will serve as the basis for our further add-ons. It rarely happens that the base lining is not needed, or it is logical to make it not solid.

What to do first: walls or ceiling? It is better to deal with the ceiling after a rough finish of the walls (cladding, plaster), then it is much easier to mark up and install a more complex and quality-demanding system plane, which is a plasterboard suspended ceiling. Before you start working on the frame, you should perform some preparatory operations:

Develop drawings of the future complex ceiling and decide on the layout of all sheets and profiles (how the frame is assembled, we will tell further).
Clean the base from crumbling elements, seal the joints between the plates.
Designate the location of the lighting fixtures and bring the cables to the outlet points.
Completely vacate the premises building materials.
Assemble scaffolding with a total horizontal surface area of at least 3 m2 (as a standard sheet).

Perimeter marking

Our task is to mark the lines on the walls along which we will install the starting profile UD-27. It will not work to mark a horizontal level immediately under the ceiling - it is too inconvenient, so at an acceptable height (1.5-1.8 m) we will make a control perimeter.

With the help of a laser builder of planes or a hydraulic level (a transparent hose filled with water), we put marks in each corner of the room with a pencil, which should be in one, strictly horizontal plane. Each wall should have at least two risks, but we recommend placing one intermediate mark in the middle of the walls. It is not necessary to connect them with a chopping cord, but some masters prefer to have solid lines.

With a tape measure at different points, we measure the distance from the control perimeter (from the received scratches or lines) to the carrier ceiling. Where this distance is the smallest, the lowest point of the base is located, from here we will mark the working perimeter. If it is necessary to press as close as possible to the ceiling so as not to “eat up” the height of the room with the frame, then we retreat from the base 40 mm (27 mm - UD, 13 mm - margin) and put at risk. We measure the distance from the risk to the control perimeter. Now, at this distance from the control perimeter, we put other marks (we place them in the corners and in the centers of the walls - similarly to the control ones). Under the ceiling with a chopping cord, from corner to corner, we draw lines. If you moved everything and recaptured it correctly, then the lines will coincide with the intermediate marks located in the centers of the walls.

Suppose the height of the room is 2.7 meters, we made the control perimeter 1.7 meters from the floor. Measurements showed that we have 1 meter to the most clamped place on the ceiling, we minus 40 mm to install the profile - we get 96 cm. As a result, all marks of the working perimeter should be at a distance of 96 cm from the control perimeter.

Please note that in this way we inspect the draft ceiling only near the walls, but sometimes it happens that in the middle of the room there is a “belly” on the ceiling or a “tooth” along the line of joining the plates. Find the problem on early stage it is possible with the help of a rule or by pulling the cord in the plane of the working perimeter (a gap of at least 35-40 mm is required between the thread and the ceiling). If such differences are found, we lower the entire perimeter below. Also, when marking the perimeter, one should take into account the thickness of the corrugated channel for wires, which may interfere with the alignment of the frame in a plane.

Assembling the frame

Setting the start profile

We cut the profile UD-27 (hereinafter UD) along the length of each wall and, inserting one into one at the corners, we mount it one by one on the working perimeter. UD is drilled to mineral walls with dowels 6x40 or 6x60 with an interval of 40-50 cm, to structures finished using a steel frame - through the cladding to profiles, with metal screws 25-35 mm long. At the junctions of two UD profiles, we must install fasteners.

When installing the start profile, there are two very important points:

Do not cover the lines of the working perimeter with a profile, place it with a touch to the colored padding.
When fixing the UD to the walls, do not focus only on the line - after nailing the edges of the profile, be sure to attach a long rule to it from below, and then fasten further.

Installation of supporting profiles

The supporting element of the subsystem is the CD-60 profiles (hereinafter referred to as CD), on which the long sides of the GKL with thinned edges are joined, in which the reinforcing tape is then laid.

If it is allowed to install racks on the walls with an interval of 60 cm, then for the ceiling the normal distance is 40 centimeters. The direction relative to the window / light, along which the GKL panels and, accordingly, the CD profiles, will be located, does not matter, however, it is much easier to work with shorter profiles and sheets, so we recommend building the ceiling along the shorter walls of the room.

On the starting profiles of long walls, we mark the locations of the CD. We start with the CD, which will become the docking for the first sheet - we retreat 1150 mm from one of the short walls (the width of the sheet with a cut off thinned edge) and put it at risk. From this risk, on a tape measure with an interval of 40 cm, we put more marks in both directions. We do this on both long walls.

Now we measure the length of each CD (we set the roulette sheet according to the marks corresponding to each other) - in 99% of cases, the dimensions of the profiles will vary. Each bearing profile must be 5-7 mm shorter than the distance between the walls along the line of its installation.

The CD is cut to size with scissors, brought into the UD and placed in the design position - the risk must coincide with the center of the profile. The carrier element is fixed in the starting element using a LN 3.5x9 mm self-tapping screw. Be sure to check the distance between the profiles along the axes with a tape measure - the standard is 1200 mm, along the width of the sheets.

If the width of the room exceeds 4 meters, then the CD will have to be spliced using a connecting element. The elongated profiles are installed on the ceiling so that the butted ends are staggered.

Attention! CD with a length of more than 4.5 m should be installed on the ceiling after mounting the hangers.

Often mortise lamps are placed in the suspended ceiling so that during installation they do not fall on the metal of the subsystem, it is necessary to correct the location of the central meter, or consider a slight relocation of lighting devices.

We fix the suspensions

In most cases, ordinary perforated brackets are suitable for the ceiling, but if the frame needs to be lowered significantly, then you can use adjustable fasteners with a hairpin or elongated U-shaped elements.

We place the hangers behind the CD profile, mark the points for drilling with a pencil - two extreme lugs. Between themselves, the "pawns" are placed at intervals of 50-70 cm, it is better if they form straight lines (this will help us to set the plane).

Using a perforator with a drill 160 mm long, we make holes 40-45 mm deep and fix the brackets to the main ceiling with 6x40 dowels.

The option when the hangers are installed before the fastening of the CD is advisable to use only if the supporting profiles are too long and sag a lot.

We expose the profiles of the frame in a single plane

We described this stage of work in detail in a previous article on false walls from GKL. The procedure here is:

CD is pressed to draft ceiling and fix them in the bracket with nails or long screws.
Across the profiles, near the suspension line from UD to UD, we fix the thread (you need to pull it very hard to minimize its sagging).
We release the carrier profiles one by one, set them a millimeter from the cord, scroll through the suspension with two LN screws on each side.
We repeat these operations along all lines of direct suspensions.

Pay attention to two important points:

Do not press the cord with profiles.
As the frame is set relative to the thread, regularly check your work with the rule, drive it along the CD, across and diagonally.

We mount jumpers

At this point, we should have a clear idea of where we have each sheet, it is best to make a simple drawing with the layout of the panels. Now we need to mount jumper profiles under the short joints of the sheets. It is necessary to use crabs, single corner connectors, or UD segments.

Please note that gypsum board sheets must be placed with a joint spacing of at least 400 mm.

A very important nuance. If we are mounting a multi-tiered ceiling, then to assemble the next level (so that the superstructures are attached to the metal), jumpers should be added in some places (along the contour of the lower level). For example, when making rectangular boxes, it is necessary to assemble a "ladder" between the extreme CDs and nearby UDs.

We sheathe the frame with drywall

Ceiling drywall is 9.5 mm thick, but many installers use stiffer wall panels 12.5 mm thick for this, often even moisture-resistant drywall (if upstairs neighbors are in the habit of flooding). In order to sew up the frame with sheets, the participation of at least two people is necessary, for beginners it is better if three people work: two - cut the gypsum board, feed and hold the sheets, the third - wraps them on the profiles.

We fix the panels with metal screws 25 mm long, screw them in until the hat disappears from the plane. Make sure that the sweat of the fasteners does not break through the facing paper. The pitch of the self-tapping screws is from 150 to 200 mm (on the short side - about 75 mm), on adjacent sheets they should go with a difference of 30-50 mm. First, we recommend sewing whole sheets according to the layout, and then inserting and fixing the trim.

If we veneer a simple single-level ceiling, then we adjust the panels to the walls almost closely - we leave a gap of several millimeters. In the case of a multi-tiered ceiling, drywall can be installed only 10-15 cm beyond the projection of the lower tier.

At the joints of sheets that are not glued with cardboard, we chamfer with a knife, its parameters are an angle of 22 degrees, a depth of 2/3 of the panel thickness, a width of about one and a half centimeters. Such a cutting of the seams is necessary so that the drywall putty has a sufficient layer at the short joints of the sheets.

Multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard

As we have already said, the base for a multi-tiered ceiling is the usual flat design. In the vast majority of cases, the second and subsequent levels are much smaller in area than the main one, so the starting plane is assembled almost completely (only sheets are not tightly fitted to the walls). Sometimes it happens that add-ons occupy a large area, then to save materials, the first level is made incomplete - it looks like several islands.

In any case, we begin work on the second level by marking its contour on the plane of the main ceiling. Here, depending on the configuration of the superstructure, it is necessary to use a square, a rule and a chopping cord, or improvised compasses.

Now on the wall from the main ceiling we retreat the specified distance (the height of the second level). Usually, the superstructure is made from 50 to 120 cm high, but when setting marks, do not forget that the profile will be sheathed with drywall, which is +12.5 mm to the side height. In order not to assemble complex structures from various frame elements, we suggest using start profiles as a board for superstructures. Most often, craftsmen use UD and get a “standard” board up to 45 mm high - this is 27 mm (profile) + 12.5 mm (GKL) + 3 mm (perforated corner). However, it is also possible to work with wall starting profiles UW with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm and have boards with a height of approximately 65, 80, 115 mm at the exit, respectively. For more high levels a design of two UDs and a strip of gypsum is used.

So, we fix the starting profile along the contour of the second tier on the ceiling, we direct the shelves of the U-profile towards the walls. If our superstructure has a curvilinear shape, then the starting profile, no matter what we use, is cut with scissors into sectors of 4-5 cm (it turns out a “snake”).

We fix with metal screws through one of the shelves. The screw must be screwed into the frame profile of the first level. Remember, we collected ladders for this and put additional jumpers? But, as an option, the extreme CD basic level you can set the edge of the box along the line, for example, move it 50 cm away from the wall and place all other profiles from it.

Attention! To ensure that the board is firmly fixed, turn the self-tapping screw closer to the inner corner of the profile. Use a long bat.

We fix the UD profile on the wall, creating another perimeter. This profile is placed either close to the first level, or lowered - it all depends on the design height of the side. The fixing technique does not differ from the installation of the perimeter for the first level.

Now it is necessary to install CD-profiles from the UD perimeter to the side of the second level. Their basic step between them is 40 cm, but when laying out the metal, it is necessary to take into account the location of the recessed fixtures. The length of these CDs for rectangular superstructures will be cyclic or the same for the entire room, but for curved structures, each profile will have to be measured individually.

We insert the CD into the starting perimeter profile and inside the bead profile. We fix the metal relative to each other with 9 mm LN screws, first near the wall, and then on the board. When we fasten the CD to the bead shelf, it serves as a spacer, that is, the bead can be set strictly vertically with the help of the CD. To check the quality of installation of rectilinear structures, apply a rule to the board or pull a thread near it, you can check the curved structure by placing a square between the first level sheathing and the board.

When the CDs are placed in their places, on the main ceiling or on the profiles of the first level, we fix direct suspensions and by thread or, as a rule, set the metal of the second level in one plane.

Now you can massively sheathe the frame with drywall. What to veneer in the first place, a side or a common plane - it does not matter, most often they start with a vertical strip. It is wrapped with the same 25 mm self-tapping screws with an interval of 150 mm, for curved products - gypsum strips are fixed more often, from 50 to 70 mm.

Horizontal filing should be done from the corners of the room, and then move to the centers of the walls. To avoid cracks, avoid joining sheets in the area of \u200b\u200bthe corner, always line both sides of the superstructure with one piece. For example, for straight boxes, this element always looks like a "boot".

Do not try to make GKL blanks exactly along the contour of the frame, practice shows that it is better to leave an allowance of 3-4 cm and, after screwing the sheets to the metal, cut off the excess with a knife or saw (curvilinear structures) and process the end face with a planer.

If, according to the project, the superstructure should have a niche for hidden lighting, then the lower horizontal sheet is extended overboard to the required distance of 50-100 mm, and this overhang is cut so as to repeat the contour of the second level. At the edge of the overhang, a UD is mounted, with the shelves facing up (straight or "snake"), a frontal strip 50-70 mm wide is screwed to it.

We considered the first and second levels, but any subsequent tiers will be mounted using identical technology. This is a basic "instruction" for installing a ceiling made of plasterboard, it is unrealistic to reveal the nuances of all possible designs in one article. However, if you have grasped the principle of assembling frames and understood how to sheathe them correctly, then you can easily make a ceiling of any complexity, just treat the drywall system as a designer.

Are you going to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? You can understand: this is a reliable and economical material that allows you to translate into reality the most non-trivial design idea. In order not to succeed, as in the immortal saying of Viktor Chernomyrdin - "We wanted the best, but it turned out as always" - it would be useful to read the step-by-step instructions, which cover in detail all the stages of work for finishing the ceiling surface.

For convenience and clarity, we have provided it with 47 photos, so you will not have any difficulties with the perception of the material.

Room preparation

remove all large objects and furniture that could potentially interfere with work and movement during the installation process;
If the first step is not possible, cover the furniture with foil to protect against construction debris, adhesive composition and dust;
clean the ceiling of everything superfluous: the same dust, small knots and everything that you are unlikely to get to in the foreseeable future after installation.

Instrument preparation

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, so that after that you don’t have to regret the crooked fit of the sheets and poorly organized lighting? That's right, the key to successful installation is competent marking and the necessary tools at hand.

First, we list everything that you need to properly mark the room:

roulette;
level;
pencil;
paint cord.

And now let's touch on the mandatory set of directly necessary construction tools:

hacksaw;
perforator;
screwdriver;
scissors.

As you can see, you will not need anything out of the ordinary in order to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. A standard set of tools that can be purchased at any building supermarket.

The only thing that can be added to this modest list in every sense is protective glasses . Still, some of the steps in our step-by-step instructions include operations that can potentially harm your eyes.

Safety Compliance- this is the basis of the basics when performing any type of repair work, so take this recommendation seriously.

Material preparation

In accordance with how you see your future plasterboard ceiling, prepare drywall sheets of the right size. Calculating the total area of the room is quite easy: the length is multiplied by the width, and the exact size of the pieces of material directly depends on the format of the plasterboard structure that you want to see in your room.

You will also need:

ceiling guide profiles UD;
ceiling main profiles CD;
direct universal suspensions or any other in accordance with the layout;
self-tapping screws;
dowels.

It should be remembered that UD profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter, and CDs are already inserted into them longitudinally with the step required according to the size of the plasterboard fragments.

Cost table

In order for you to have a rough idea of future costs and be able to prudently adjust your budget, we offer you a small table that reflects the average current prices for the materials used to finish the ceiling with plasterboard.

Name	Vacation unit	Price
self-tapping screws	packing (200pcs)	from 120 rubles
hl sheets	sheet(3 m2)	from 250 rubles
UD profile	PCS.	from 40 rubles
CD profile	PCS.	from 45 rubles
ceiling hangers	PCS.	from 4 rubles
dowels	packing (200pcs)	from 125 rubles

markup

A very simple, but quite important stage, the final result depends on the correctness of its implementation:

find the lower corner point on the concrete base of the ceiling;
we make the necessary indent, guided by practical considerations: how the lamps will be mounted, how many levels there will be in the final design. Remember that there must be a certain margin of several centimeters, otherwise making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands will turn out to be very rude and unattractive;
we set a mark with a level, if there is a hydraulic level at hand, then the problem of even transfer of this line to the entire plane can be considered solved. If not, then you will have to use the masking cord we mentioned;
We connect all the marks with this cord, achieving a perfectly even line.

The final touch of the markup is the application of the so-called grids, which will serve as a guide for the installation of prepared suspensions. Observe the step between the lines, it is approximately equal to 50 cm.

Here is what you should end up with.

If the same thing is observed on your ceiling, then congratulations: you have successfully completed the first step of our step-by-step instructions.

frame

If the markup is done correctly, then the construction of the frame should not cause you any particular difficulties:

start from the perimeter, fixing the prepared UD wall profile through a given step (up to 60 centimeters);
proceed to fixing the suspensions - use dowels for this, and again, the prepared suspensions should be placed at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines of the grid applied to the concrete base of the ceiling (see the previous paragraph);
prepare mortgages from bars for a chandelier, if one will be used indoors, and also run wires to places where it is planned to install spots and other types of lighting fixtures;
insert the longitudinal profile of the CD into the grooves of the wall and fix it with self-tapping screws. They should be at your fingertips, right?

If you did not know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, but followed the proposed step-by-step instructions, then half the way has already been successfully completed. The creation of the frame crowns the installation of the so-called battens on which drywall sheets will be attached.

Plasterboard sheathing

Probably the most elementary and uncomplicated step when installing drywall, which, however, will require help in the form of a couple or two extra hands.

In order to speed up or even simplify the finishing of the plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, use the help of your comrades to fix the sheets on the ceiling. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to fix drywall sheets with self-tapping screws alone.

start from one wall, systematically moving towards the opposite;
the installation of the last fragment is carried out with cutting the sheet in accordance with your measurements;
lay the fragments in a joint, excluding the appearance of any gaps and irregularities. If we are talking about the last sheet, then experienced experts still recommend leaving a small gap in this case.

Finishing

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands logically approached the post-processing of an already mounted surface. However, in terms of the number of micro-operations, this stage confidently pushes back all the previous ones:

putty joints and gaps;
surface primer;
decorative finish.

The choice of implementing the latter is solely on your conscience. Usually, to give the plasterboard ceiling more expressiveness, they use beautiful wallpaper, applying decorative plaster, painting the ceiling base water-based paint. When choosing one or another solution, make a discount on functional purpose premises.

It goes without saying that for a kitchen or bathroom, where high humidity prevails and temperature fluctuations are frequent, it is best to prefer the most practical type of finish to drywall - painting with a reliable water-based emulsion.

Conclusion

Choosing a ceiling design is one of the most difficult, yet entertaining puzzles when renovating an apartment.

This article will help you not to get confused in the variety of variations on the theme of style, the right choice of lighting and design design, so that upon completion of the repair work, the ceiling will become the very final eloquent chord in your new interior.

The building materials market is a gigantic variety of means for decorating floors, walls and ceilings. Many of the presented are suitable only for office space, while others are advisable to use only in residential premises.

But there is a third option, universal - drywall, which is suitable for any type of room. The ceiling seems to be the main visual element of any room, because when we find ourselves in a new place, the ceiling is the first thing we pay attention to.

Peculiarities

Drywall is a material used in construction for sheathing, installation of partitions, ceiling cladding, mainly in rooms with a dry and non-humid environment. It is a sheet of two dense layers of construction paper and thickened gypsum filler with various additional fillers.

Drywall is a unique eco-friendly and clean finishing material.

This material is non-combustible and does not emit toxins, maintains a favorable atmosphere in the room. The standard size of any drywall is a width of 120 centimeters.

The plasterboard sheet is fixed to the facing surface using gypsum mastic or to the battens using metal screws. Being an inexpensive, convenient and practical material, drywall has been one of the main elements in construction work for several years, which has been preferred by many builders.

Previously, gypsum board was used exclusively for leveling the surface, but after some modifications and the emergence of a wide range of gypsum boards, they began to be used as structural elements. In particular, the material appealed to designers for the creative possibilities it provided them.

Drywall is not only able to level your ceiling, but also radically change your interior.. An unusually shaped ceiling with lighting, wall panels, a fireplace, an arch, a shelf, a partition and much more is great solutions to highlight areas of the living space, which will make it more functional.

Pros and cons

Before deciding on a finishing material for a dwelling, it is necessary to find out all the advantages and disadvantages of drywall sheets. With the knowledge and subtleties of this material, in the future you can insure yourself against disappointment and all sorts of unpleasant situations during the repair process. The use of drywall in the design of the ceiling has both positive and negative qualities. Let's analyze each of them.

Advantages:

Easy installation. When installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, there is no need to wait for the mortar to dry, given the dimensions of the living space and even meager repair work skills - finishing is carried out no more than three days.
Minor weight material.
Wide choice of shapes- with the help of drywall, you have the opportunity to realize multi-level structures of various shapes with unusual bends.
High plasticity- when using water, drywall takes the form you need.
Has a high level of sound and heat insulation. Using this material, you will increase the insulating characteristic of the room.

Communications camouflage. Easy and fast production of various designs in which you can hide the wire, cable, pipe, duct and different kinds communications.
Surfaces of drywall constructions can be used for further painting, pasting any kind of wallpaper, facing with ceramics and tiles.
Rich choice of material. The market makes it possible to choose the right hemmed drywall of the required thickness with various operating properties. For example, moisture-resistant material is used for cladding in a room with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom).
Lighting system. A plasterboard ceiling is often used as a frame for any type of lighting.

With all the advantages of this material, you should be prepared for certain disadvantages:

Reducing the height of the room. Suspended ceiling structures take about five centimeters in height due to the use of additional relief profiles, respectively, are contraindicated in low rooms.
The occurrence of cracks. If the drywall is not installed correctly, cracks may appear at the joint in the future.
To preserve the material in its original form, certain conditions are necessary, namely, it is forbidden to store drywall in rooms with high humidity and lack of heating.

It is not advisable to use drywall for ceiling cladding in a room where there is a high probability of being flooded from above, since the drywall sheet swells under the influence of water, the mass becomes larger and structures may collapse.
When installing plasterboard shelves, it is not recommended to fix massive elements on them, since it is easy to damage the gypsum “stuffing”.
At the end of the installation, it is extremely difficult to carry out extraordinary finishing work, to mask the joints of gypsum sheets and the resulting cracks.
Fragility. Plasterboard sheets can break during careless transportation, installation and operation, so you need to be extremely careful and careful when repairing or building ceiling partitions. It is also recommended to refrain from using drywall where it is planned to install a heavy structure, for example, a massive chandelier. In this case, use a double layer of drywall for finishing. This will ensure secure fastening.

Kinds

After evaluating all the possible advantages and minor, but important to note the disadvantages, you need to decide on a specific type of drywall that will meet your specific needs.

So, in the repair of residential premises, there are several types of drywall. They have different properties. It is on them that you should focus your attention.

GKL- gypsum sheets, which are lined on both sides with light and soft cardboard fixed on the surface of the gypsum. The standard size of such a sheet varies and ranges in length from 2000 to 3000 millimeters. The width usually remains unchanged - 1200 millimeters. Thickness - 12 or 9 millimeters. For residential premises, it is recommended to resort to sheets with a thickness of no more than 9 millimeters. to loosen the mass of ceiling structures.

It is widely used in the implementation of design and construction ideas for the repair and installation of walls and partitions. In the manufacture of used cardboard gray shades.

GKLO- fire-resistant plasterboard sheets. This type of material, surprisingly, is not used in residential premises, but is widely used in industrial buildings, for finishing the air duct and communication shaft.

GKLV- moisture resistant plasterboard sheets. They are used in rooms with high humidity, namely in the bathroom, kitchen, bathroom with exhaust ventilation and protection of the front surface with a waterproofing compound, waterproof paint, primer or ceramic tile finish. In the manufacture of used cardboard green tones.

GKLVO– Mixed gypsum plasterboards with high resistance to fire and moisture combine all the characteristics of the previously mentioned types.

GVL- gypsum boards. During manufacture, they are not fixed with cardboard, like the previous ones. Gypsum is reinforced with special high-quality cellulose waste paper. This type of sheet has high strength and heat resistance to fire and flame. It corresponds to the standard size of an ordinary sheet with a thickness of more than 6 or 10 millimeters. GVLV - gypsum fiber moisture resistant sheets.

Arched drywall sheets have the most minimal thickness of the previously presented species - less than six millimeters. It is used to reproduce various kinds of designs of different radii of curves and curved lines.

Facade plasterboard sheets covered with a layer of fiberglass, have a standard thickness of 12 millimeters. In the manufacture of used cardboard yellow shades.

Gypsum boards with insulation- modification material, in which standard sheets are fixed with an adhesive base polystyrene blocks. Insulated layers reach 60 millimeters, which makes it possible to increase the insulation parameter of the wall several times.

Vinyl Coated Gypsum Board- Another modification of our time, which increases its versatility. The GKL package has been expanded and today you can purchase a profile with a decorated vinyl coating, which will allow you to install walls with a ready-made color scheme.

With the help of such a GCR, you can make both a single-level and multi-level ceiling.

Forms

The use of drywall sheets to give a smooth surface to walls and ceilings during repairs has long become widespread. The manufacture of complex structures and decoration of the ceiling became available using a standard gypsum board. Such ceilings create interesting lighting solutions and become real works of art.

There are many options for using drywall forms, and for this it is not at all necessary to contact the services of a builder or decorator. However, there are some conditions for the use of decorative forms on ceiling cladding that you need to familiarize yourself with.

Rectangular plasterboard ceiling- This is a universal option, as it is suitable for all types of premises. It does an excellent job with its function - the correction of the shape of the room. For example, a rectangular ceiling is designed for a narrow space, it will visually expand the walls.

Figured plasterboard square ceiling- this is a kind of rectangle, but is found mainly in residential areas with the appropriate characteristics. With this type of room, a multi-level ceiling with a circle in the center of the structure is recommended.

Round ceiling - the best option to highlight the center of the living space, for example, where it is supposed to be a table, sofa or place with the largest concentration of people.

Oval and curved ceiling from drywall visually enlarges the room, this type of ceiling is used for unobtrusive zoning of space, regardless of its size and shape.

Ceiling of an abstract or geometric three-dimensional form from drywall - it can be the shape of a flower or geometric figure, serves exclusively to give decorativeness and eccentricity to a living space.

Project

To design a complex multi-level plasterboard ceiling, you must resort to a specialized computer program, it will calculate the recommended amount of material.

In this article, we will consider a single-level ceiling structure without complex decor. The creation of single-level ceilings does not involve the development of a complex project.

It will not be difficult to calculate it at home, the only nuance in this project that cannot be ignored is how the lighting devices will be located so that during installation the lamps do not coincide with the location of the supporting metal profiles.

For clarity and exemplary schemes calculation, we take as an example a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

The first thing on the priority list is to calculate the perimeter of the required room, in this case P = 6 + 6 + 3 + 3 = 18 meters. This is the required number of ceiling profile guides. Be prudent and get a small supply in advance in case there are difficulties during installation. Do not forget that often the walls in residential premises are not equal to each other, in this case, focus on the value that is greater.

Then it is necessary to calculate the required volume for the supporting ceiling profiles. This device is very important. For example, let's take a gap of 50 centimeters long - the distance at which the profiles will be fixed one after another. When the drywall sheet is fixed along the length of the room, the size of the standard sheet is 2500 mm, therefore, the boundaries fall on the load-bearing elements of the profile.

So, we substitute our parameters and do not forget that 6 m \u003d 600 cm, therefore, 600: 50 \u003d 12. Twelve pieces are the required number of profiles.

The second option is to place drywall sheets across the width of the room. In this case, the gap should be sixty centimeters long: 600: 60 = 10. Ten pieces is the recommended number of profiles.

The next step involves calculating the number of suspensions. Suspensions are fixed to the carrier profiles for a gap of sixty centimeters in length. For example, take a profile three meters long. Accordingly, 300: 60 = 5. Five pieces - the required number of suspensions. There are twelve load-bearing ceiling profiles at our disposal, therefore, 12 * 5 = 60.

At the last stage, the required volume of crabs is calculated - cruciform elements for fixing the frame structure. In our case, it is recommended to purchase 24 pieces of crabs, in other words, twice as many as the ceiling profiles calculated in the second stage.

Carefully draw up drawings to make your work easier in the future.

Equipment and materials

An extremely important stage in the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is, of course, the preparation of all the necessary materials and tools.

So, to work with drywall sheets you need:

guide profiles;
ceiling profiles - do not give preference to cheaper material, as thinner material is used in the manufacture, which can lead to deflection;
a rather important device - a U-shaped suspension;
profile connectors;
fasteners - dowels, anchors;
plasterboard sheets - the ceiling is usually installed from sheets whose thickness reaches 9 millimeters, with a larger size there is a risk of some difficulties (a stronger frame structure or alternative installation technology will be required);

self-tapping screws for metal and drywall;
sealing tapes;
materials for thermal and waterproofing;
Decoration Materials;
jigsaw and scissors for metal, hammer;
tape measure, level - it is recommended to use two different levels (the first is up to a meter, the second is from two to 3 meters);
construction knife;
perforator, screwdriver;
consumables.

Mounting

Upon completion of the preparation of all the necessary tools and materials, after the development of the project, you can proceed to the most entertaining stage of the whole work - the installation of drywall, as well as the finishing that follows it.

You can hem the GKL yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals, but it would be useful to ask someone to help you. The filing of this material should occur in several stages.

Frame and insulation

First you need to use a tape measure or level to measure all the corners of the living space. By height, we determine the shortest angle of all. We mark it 5 centimeters from the ceiling, provided that in the future the installation of lighting fixtures is not planned, 9 centimeters - with the planned installation.

Using a level, similar marks are indicated in other corners. Then marks are indicated along the walls at the same level as the first mark. It is necessary to collect all the marks in one line when using a long ruler or a stretched cord - this is quite simple to do. Next, guide profiles are fixed to the walls.

In a large room, it is advisable to pre-engage in strengthening the structure at the joints to avoid displacement of materials under their mass. You can sheathe the ceiling with anything. Any dense materials will fit for strengthening- plastic, plywood, which must be fixed on top of each butt joints and attached to the wall with dowels. After that, the corner joints of the profiles are fixed.

A standard drywall sheet is 120 by 250 centimeters, and therefore the ceiling profile is recommended to be screwed at a distance of 40 centimeters, since the sheets will be fixed along the borders and in the middle. Next, the ceiling is marked with lines parallel to each other at a distance of 40 centimeters.

In the places of the transverse joint, you need to screw a jumper made of the same material as the profile. After that, a crab is installed - a cruciform element to strengthen the frame structure. Next, the location of the suspension is determined. The main suspension is installed 20 - 25 from the wall, the next - at a distance of 50 centimeters.

An anchor is used to fix the suspension, the usual dowel is not suitable in this case, since there is no thread and there is a possibility that the structure may not withstand. Ceiling profiles must be attached strictly to suspensions. Start work from the corner of the room. And on this, the frame structure for the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

Special attention should be paid to the installation of thermal insulation. This is a simple and straightforward process that will require a little patience. The ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls. After installing the frame structure, the empty areas that have formed in the middle of the frame and the existing floor slab are filled with mineral heaters, the basis of which is fiberglass. After that, you can do the laying of electrical communications.

There is one important nuance - built-in lighting devices can cause overheating, and it does not matter what type of lamps you prefer - energy-saving, diode or incandescent lamps. Powerful overheating will provoke a number of unpleasant consequences. Nearby wires can melt, after which, at best, short circuit, at worst, there will be a fire.

If you remove some of the insulation, this will solve the problem of overheating, but the thermal insulation function will be greatly reduced. In this case, it is recommended to abandon the installation of a built-in lighting system and opt for a chandelier or wall lamp.

Pay special attention to the initial preparation of drywall. He needs to rest for a while at room temperature.. Storage of drywall should occur only in a horizontal position. At the initial stage, a chamfer is removed from the drywall. In other words, parts of the edges are trimmed at a 45 degree angle. This procedure is necessary to ensure the reliability of further finishing work. Today, many manufacturers produce sheets with finished edges.

Installation of drywall sheets start from the corners. They are fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 15 centimeters. It is customary to arrange screws on adjacent sheets in a checkerboard pattern. Sheets are attached a little randomly. This means that the sheets do not join in one line - this will allow the drywall to fix more securely. Installation of drywall is completed, the final stage is finishing.

Finishing work

After completing the main work on installing a drywall structure, many are wondering what finishing work follows next. There are many variations on this theme - paint, wallpaper, use decorative putty or polyurethane elements for decoration. The question is really difficult.

Let's start with the fact that the resulting plane must be made uniform - this will help hide all kinds of seams, joints and joints of sheets. In addition, if there is a question about painting or finishing with thin decorative plaster, you need to level the ceiling in any case.

Water-based and water-dispersion paints are the most popular materials for ceiling finishing.

Water-based paint is a paint consisting of small drops of oil that are dissolved in water. Water-dispersion paint is a combination of small particles of different polymers, it is resistant to washing and does not have a strong odor. Both are well suited for painting drywall surfaces., besides, they have one feature - it is possible to choose a matte base. This is true for the case when there are small errors on the ceiling that remain after puttying. This will disguise them perfectly.

Gloss-based paint, on the contrary, will expose all the roughness and imperfections for show. Its use is appropriate only when the quality of the coating is ideal, for example, it is pre-pasted with wallpaper. Oil-based paints are not recommended for ceilings.

Wallpapering involves two options for subsequent events - with or without painting. The choice of shade and color is something with which you need to be careful and attentive. Too dark a shade creates the atmosphere of a low ceiling pressing on you, and a light shade will visually increase the height of the living space. Both options require you to take into account the already existing relief pattern on the wallpaper. It makes no sense to glue embossed wallpapers so that they get lost under impressive layers of paint.

It is worth mentioning such a type of finishes as liquid wallpaper. This is a fairly commonly used material for finishing work, which fits perfectly on drywall. In composition, they are similar to thick paint, to which a decorative filler was added.

The choice of plaster for the ceiling is up to you, the only thing is that it is not recommended to use water-based decorative plasters. The gypsum sheet does not tolerate moisture, from which it begins to swell, loses its shape and the entire structure is deformed. In rooms with high humidity, acrylic-based decorative plaster is used. It perfectly copes with the effects of moisture and at the same time retains its properties.

According to the size of the filler, plasters are divided into several types:

low-factory– filler up to 1 mm;
medium texture- filler up to 1.5 millimeters;
large- filler from 3 to 5 millimeters;
fine textured– filler less than 1 mm.

When choosing a plaster, keep in mind that thin fillers will not mask an uneven surface. Give preference to denser fillers.

Tile is another attractive option for finishing a plasterboard ceiling. But there is one condition - it is necessary to pre-treat the entire surface of the plasterboard ceiling with a primer. Ignoring this stage, the tile will not last long and fall off at any moment.

Ceiling products are rarely trimmed ceramic tiles, in this case, a material such as polyurethane or polystyrene is used. Such materials are glued easier and faster.

There are really a lot of options on the topic of finishing the surface of drywall with your own hands, the choice depends on the characteristics of the living space and plans for the design of the entire room. Our step-by-step instruction will certainly help you mount drywall and finish the ceiling.

Do not neglect the steps and materials for preparing the surface for future finishing, for example, leveling the surface with putty.

Sooner or later, when working with drywall sheets, you will encounter a situation where the sheet will need to be cut to size. To do this, use a tape measure, a ruler and a sharp construction knife, a clerical knife is also suitable. Having made the markup, slowly cut the cardboard layer with a knife, trying to hook the gypsum filler. Then put the sheet on the border of the table and with a sharp movement break the gypsum filler to the bottom cardboard layer.

Preparatory work with drywall is not limited to cutting it to the required size. If you want to get a flat surface, the joints and seams need to be masked after installation on a metal frame structure. For this, the technology of chamfering along the edges of the drywall sheet is used. The dimensions of the chamfers directly depend on the chosen method by which the plasterboard sheets will be puttied.

If you have chosen the reinforcing tape method, then the bevels are removed at a 45-degree angle. When using putty with a self-adhesive sickle, it is necessary to chamfer at a 25-degree angle, which is already two-thirds of the density of the sheet. To perform this process, you need to purchase a specialized edge planer.

Puttying drywall sheets and sealing joints is inevitable if you need a flat surface without seams.

Grouting of the joint and seam is carried out strictly after the dust, crumbs and other smallest particles left after the installation work have been removed. After that, drywall is treated with a primer, which increases the adhesion of sheets with putty. After the first layer, it is necessary to wait for complete drying, then the second layer is applied, while the excess is removed with a spatula. After the puttied joint dries, it is actively sanded with sandpaper.. The same procedure is applied to places that are fixed with self-tapping screws, as well as all corners.

As mentioned earlier, drywall sheets can take any sophisticated curvilinear shape. Before you start shaping drywall, you need to remember that dry sheets can be bent, provided that the radius does not exceed the established standards:

sheet thickness 6 mm- radius not less than 1000 millimeters;
sheet thickness 9 mm– radius 2000 millimeters;
thickness 12 millimeters- radius 2700 millimeters.

In the desire to save money, many prefer wooden frame created from slats and timber. Such a frame will perform the function of fixing a drywall sheet, but how durable this design is is another question.

It is no secret that wood has a low resistance to moisture and is even more susceptible to it than drywall. As a result, you are waiting for the constant deformation of the wooden frame, which leads to the appearance of new chips, cracks and uneven joints. In addition, wood is natural. natural material which is preferred by many insects. When working with drywall, a metal frame can give you a guarantee for a long and strong fixing of the sheets and will save you from many difficulties in the future.

Beautiful examples in the interior

A plasterboard ceiling is a good opportunity not only to give the ceiling a more elegant look, but also to play a significant role in the interior of the room, for example, to emphasize any interior object. In this case, these are columns.

The sharp curves of the ceiling emphasize their massiveness and elegance. And the diagonal built-in lighting gives the space symmetry and harmony.

The complex designs of plasterboard structures immediately attract attention, give the living space a new shape, changing it beyond recognition. The interior looks richer and more refined. A smooth flexible line, built-in lighting fixtures give an atmosphere of warmth and comfort.

Properly selected plasterboard ceiling design radically changes the atmosphere of the entire living space: it will add height, volume, luxury and increase space. The so-called floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting fixtures is one of the most popular options, suitable for both private houses and apartments.

The lighting, installed along the border of the drywall construction, gives the impression of a light and soft glow. It is made not only for the aesthetic appearance, but also to mask the fasteners.

The article talks about the rules for installing a false ceiling from GKL. We tried to make a simple technological map, where close attention is paid to the most difficult moments for beginners.

single level ceiling

Develop drawings of the future complex ceiling and decide on the layout of all sheets and profiles (how the frame is assembled, we will tell further).
Clean the base from crumbling elements, seal the joints between the plates.
Designate the location of the lighting fixtures and bring the cables to the outlet points.
Completely free the premises from building materials.
Assemble scaffolding with a total horizontal surface area of at least 3 m2 (as a standard sheet).

Perimeter marking

Please note that in this way we inspect the draft ceiling only near the walls, but sometimes it happens that in the middle of the room there is a “belly” on the ceiling or a “tooth” along the line of joining the plates. You can identify the problem at an early stage with the help of a rule or by pulling the cord in the plane of the working perimeter (a gap of at least 35-40 mm is required between the thread and the ceiling). If such differences are found, we lower the entire perimeter below. Also, when marking the perimeter, one should take into account the thickness of the corrugated channel for wires, which may interfere with the alignment of the frame in a plane.

Assembling the frame

Setting the start profile

When installing the start profile, there are two very important points:

Do not cover the lines of the working perimeter with a profile, place it with a touch to the colored padding.
When fixing the UD to the walls, do not focus only on the line - after nailing the edges of the profile, be sure to attach a long rule to it from below, and then fasten further.

Installation of supporting profiles

If the width of the room exceeds 4 meters, then the CD will have to be spliced using a connecting element. The elongated profiles are installed on the ceiling so that the butted ends are staggered.

Attention! CD with a length of more than 4.5 m should be installed on the ceiling after mounting the hangers.

We fix the suspensions

Using a perforator with a drill 160 mm long, we make holes 40-45 mm deep and fix the brackets to the main ceiling with 6x40 dowels.

The option when the hangers are installed before the fastening of the CD is advisable to use only if the supporting profiles are too long and sag a lot.

We expose the profiles of the frame in a single plane

We described this stage of work in detail in a previous article on false walls from GKL. The procedure here is:

We press the CD to the draft ceiling and fix them in the bracket with nails or long self-tapping screws.
Across the profiles, near the suspension line from UD to UD, we fix the thread (you need to pull it very hard to minimize its sagging).
We release the carrier profiles one by one, set them a millimeter from the cord, scroll through the suspension with two LN screws on each side.
We repeat these operations along all lines of direct suspensions.

Pay attention to two important points:

Do not press the cord with profiles.
As the frame is set relative to the thread, regularly check your work with the rule, drive it along the CD, across and diagonally.

We mount jumpers

Please note that gypsum board sheets must be placed with a joint spacing of at least 400 mm.

We sheathe the frame with drywall

Multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard

Now on the wall from the main ceiling we retreat the specified distance (the height of the second level). Usually, the superstructure is made from 50 to 120 cm high, but when setting marks, do not forget that the profile will be sheathed with drywall, which is +12.5 mm to the side height. In order not to assemble complex structures from various frame elements, we suggest using start profiles as a board for superstructures. Most often, craftsmen use UD and get a “standard” board up to 45 mm high - this is 27 mm (profile) + 12.5 mm (GKL) + 3 mm (perforated corner). However, it is also possible to work with wall starting profiles UW with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm and have boards with a height of approximately 65, 80, 115 mm at the exit, respectively. For higher levels, a construction of two UDs and a strip of gypsum is used.

We fix with metal screws through one of the shelves. The screw must be screwed into the frame profile of the first level. Remember, we collected ladders for this and put additional jumpers? But, as an option, the extreme CD of the base level can be set along the line of the edge of the box, for example, move 50 cm away from the wall and place all other profiles from it.

Attention! To ensure that the board is firmly fixed, turn the self-tapping screw closer to the inner corner of the profile. Use a long bat.

Alexander Dragun, Ph.D., site expert

The snow-white ceiling always looks stylish and harmonious, combined with any design decoration of the room. However, the monotony in the decoration of the upper part of the apartment begins to depress over time - you want something new, unusual, which neighbors and friends do not have. Modern materials and technology can solve this problem, gradually pushing whitewashing and painting into the background.

Master finishers offer various methods ceiling finishes. The following types of ceiling are most in demand:

Stretch- the most common technology for decorating the ceiling space. Its essence is fastening on plastic or aluminum profiles of synthetic fabric (polyester) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film. In this case, it is desirable to have a tension material without seams. It is made to order after measuring the ceiling. That's why independent work according to this method of designing the upper part of the room is difficult;

Suspension. The technological process is somewhat similar to the previous ceiling design method. The difference in the rigidity of the frame (metal profiles are used if the ceiling is concrete, wooden beams with wooden ceilings or, as in attics, roof systems) and the type of material for ceiling sheathing - plasterboard, wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass or mineral fiber boards are fixed. Despite the complexity of the technology, such work can be done independently;

Rack. The surface of the ceiling is mounted from aluminum or steel plates treated with several layers of varnish. It is installed, as a rule, in unheated rooms (frost-resistant) or in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom);

Mirror. This type of ceiling space decoration is similar in design to a false ceiling. The only difference is that mirror plates are used instead of GKL. They visually change the volume of the room, doubling the height of the ceiling. This design of the upper part of the rooms was in vogue 30-40 years ago. Currently, it is very difficult to meet a mirror ceiling;

Hemming. This is a simplified version of a suspended ceiling. The ceiling surface of this design is also formed from rigid sheets. However, they are not mounted on a suspended structure, but on a wooden or metal frame fixed directly on the floor slabs. Such ceilings do not have the ability to make hidden wiring of various communications and use built-in LED lights;

Adhesive- the simplest and most budget option for finishing the ceiling space. There is nothing complicated here - the technological process is even more understandable for a novice finisher than whitewashing or painting.

The essence of the method is gluing square panels of polystyrene (another name is styrofoam) 50x50 cm in size to the ceiling surface. The tile can be smooth or embossed, painted in one color or imitating wood, granite or plaster, simply painted or with a laminated protective film and etc.;

plastered. According to this technology, the ceiling is primed, puttied, and then covered with decorative plaster. Of the advantages of such a ceiling, it should be noted its durability and low cost, minus two: high labor intensity and the standard appearance of a painted ceiling with a simple color;

Raster or cassette. It is assembled from small rectangles 60x10, 120x60 cm in size, which professional builders call cassettes (plates). They are made of glass or pressed mineral wool. Mounted to the ceiling with special frames. Cassettes have a variety of designs, which allows you to implement the most unusual ideas for interior design in any room of the apartment (house).

Plasterboard false ceiling

In the decoration of ceilings, there is a growing tendency to reduce the cost of repairs and labor intensity while obtaining the maximum possible aesthetic effect. Most beautiful decoration ceiling space is obtained by using suspended structures with sewn drywall. This technological solution for finishing the ceiling allows you to:

hide the problems of the ceiling (skew, cracks, chips, visible joint, etc.);
hide various kinds of wiring and cables;
do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling, which allows you to save on labor and materials when carrying out these operations.

Plasterboard ceiling is a rigid structure made of metal frame in the form of a lattice attached to the ceiling with suspensions, and on the walls - to a metal profile. Facing sheets, mainly drywall, are attached to the assembled grate with self-tapping screws.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL suspended ceilings have many advantages:

long service life - 20-30 years;
high strength - does not collapse when pressed or scratched;
working with drywall does not require special tools and skills;
installation of the frame is within the power of any novice builder;
good heat and noise insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics with the help of a heater;
does not require special care - sometimes it is enough to walk with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
the widest possibilities in interior design - drywall can not only be figuratively cut, but also bent curvilinear forms can be obtained after soaking and drying with warm air;
availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
environmental friendliness - non-toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore it can be installed in any room of an apartment or house (bedroom, children's room, etc.);
ease of installation of any kind of lighting.

At the same time, this type of ceiling has its drawbacks:

need constant repainting every 7-8 years of operation;
steals the height of the room;
requires finishing processing of gypsum board joints, recesses from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
becomes unusable when a small amount of water seeps from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
collapses with minor errors in the calculations;
there is no possibility of installation alone - a minimum of 2 people is required.

As can be seen from the above pros and cons, choosing a false ceiling allows you to solve many problems with little difficulty. However, stretch ceilings are more popular with customers. Why is this happening?

Which is better - drywall or stretch ceiling

A comparative analysis of what is better - a stretch ceiling or drywall for decorating the ceiling space, shows:

The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers in the passport indicate a 10-year service life (actually it will last about 15 years), and GKL can not be changed for 20-30 years - it is enough to repaint regularly;
In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceiling are approximately equal;

Important: if necessary, improve sound insulation or insulate the ceiling, mineral wool can only be used for suspended ceilings.

In terms of strength, the false ceiling has an advantage - it does not collapse from the slightest touch of a sharp object or a concentrated impact of small force, unlike PVC film;
According to the elasticity of drywall and stretch ceiling parity is surprising, but the film can withstand loads up to 100 kg / m 2, which is clearly manifested during the flooding of the apartment by neighbors from above. In the experiment, a PVC ceiling with an area of 6 m 2 withstood 500 liters of water, and only after 2 hours small trickles of water began to appear due to the delamination of the film;
In terms of the possibilities to turn design ideas into reality, a stretch ceiling gives a significant head start to a suspended structure, especially in terms of texture and color scheme.

When comparing the cost of installation, a stretch ceiling also has a significant advantage. If we compare prices in St. Petersburg, then for 1 m 2 of drywall installation, you will have to pay 2,500-3,000 rubles. for a full cycle of work, and for a stretch ceiling prices start at 700 rubles.

When performing work on plasterboard ceiling independently, the costs will decrease and will amount to 700-800 rubles / m 2 (the price also includes transportation costs for the delivery of material in the amount of 200 rubles / m 2, this figure can change in any direction, but slightly).

The speed of work must also be taken into account. The stretch ceiling is installed in a day, the suspended ceiling cannot be mounted within these terms.

Conclusion: in some respects, a stretch ceiling has a significant advantage. But if the issue is considered in the long term, professionals advise installing a false ceiling - it is cheaper and there are no problems with the next repair.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed

Installing a false ceiling steals 5-10 cm of its height in the room (an increase in the distance between the floor slabs and the hemmed plasterboard is always caused by the installation of hidden fixtures). Therefore, in "Khrushchev", with their small size both in area and in height (2.5-2.6 m), false ceiling drywall mounting is not recommended.

Based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living space and the design approach to interior design, it is considered optimal to install drywall on the ceiling at a height of 2.7 m, two-level at an apartment height of 3.0 m and multi-level at very high, 3.3 m and more, premises.

Materials and tools

It is considered an axiom that before starting work, you should buy necessary materials and assemble a set of tools. In this case, an exception applies. The exact number of profiles, connecting elements, fasteners and drywall sheets can only be found out by completing part preparatory work which, in turn, require appropriate tools.

In order not to break the section of the article into several parts, let's run a little ahead and consider the purchase of materials before the calculations, but relying on them, i.e. about the fifth stage of the preparatory work, we will tell before they begin.

In order to have an idea of the cost of repairs, for those who perform the installation of a false ceiling on their own, we will summarize the costs of purchasing materials and a set of tools in tables.

Materials.

Name of materials	Quantity	Price per one.	Price
Drywall 3000x1200x6.5	6 sheets	360	2160
Profile UD (PN) 28273000	7 pcs.	85	595
Profile CD (PS) 66273000	21 pcs.	100	2100
direct suspension	126 pcs.	10	1260
Mount "crab"	55 pcs.	12	660
Self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm	1 pack 1000 pcs.	300	300
Self-tapping dowels 6*60	266 pcs. (3 pack)	230	690
Screws "bug"	560 pcs. (3 pack)	100	300
Primer for plasterboard	5 l	100	100
Gypsum putty	5 kg	200	200
Grid "serpyanka"	2 units	50	100
damper tape	20 m		550
Water-based paint	1 bucket 9 l	1900	1900
Electric wires	19 m	80	1520
light bulbs	11 pcs.	420	460

Attention: in some retail chains, the “crab” mount is marked with a suspension, which does not correspond to its function.

Thus, the total costs are 13,895 rubles. The cost of finishing 1 m 2 of the ceiling is 655 rubles. This is just for materials.

You will need to spend part of the family budget to buy or rent necessary tool. Here, too, the numbers are not small.

Tools.

Tool name	Rent price	Purchase price
Perforator with nozzles	300	2450
screwdriver	200	3630
"Bulgarian"	200	2140
Laser level	300	2746
Hydraulic level	done by hand
plumb line	done by hand
Roulette	No	76
Level	No	100
construction knife	No	78
	No	92
Chopping cord (can be done)	No	55
Faux fur roller	No	29
cuvette	No	23
Spatula narrow (up to 10 cm)	No	100
Spatula wide (30-35 cm)	No	225

Preparatory work

How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself? The technology is not complicated. Consists of preparatory work, frame assembly, installation of plasterboard and surface finishing. Installation of a suspended ceiling begins with preparatory work. They include 5 stages:

preparation of the premises;
drafting a project;
calculation of the amount of material;
marking the ceiling and walls;
purchase of materials.

Attention: on many sites that consider how to fix drywall to the ceiling, gross errors of a different nature are made. Leading portals are no exception. Therefore, before starting work, we recommend that you study several articles on the topic, critically digesting the posted information. Examples of inaccuracies:

they offer to mount drywall only on longitudinal CD-profiles, which are also fixed parallel to the window (see photo);

Mistakes made when fastening profiles: a) longitudinal placed parallel to the window; b) there are no transverse profiles.

incorrectly indicate the step between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
it is recommended to retreat from the wall by 10 cm for the first line of the frame;
hangers are placed at the intersection of profiles, etc.

Room preparation

In a new building, all the preparation of the premises for the installation of the ceiling comes down to cleaning it from debris. In a lived-in apartment, you must:

Remove all furniture from the room to provide unhindered access to any point on the ceiling;
If it is impossible to complete the first paragraph, close the chairs, sofa or wardrobe plastic wrap from dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls under the dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared for the repeated movement of pieces of furniture from place to place, in order to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and for cleaning chairs and sofas, because dust tends to sneak under the film, finding the smallest holes;
Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (fungus), soot.

Drafting a project

For execution design work you will need a tape measure, a simple pencil ( ball pen) and a double notebook sheet, in a box. All work is done in several steps.

1. The length of each wall is measured with a tape measure, excluding ledges and niches. If they are in the room, the perimeter of the walls is additionally measured. The first dimension is needed to calculate the number of lines of the ceiling profile, the second, the perimeter, to determine the length of the guide profile.

2. The resulting dimensions on a certain scale are applied to the notebook sheet. The result should be a drawing of the ceiling.

3. A scheme for the passage of the frame is being developed, as well as places for attaching suspensions. The following points are important here:

Longitudinal profiles can be fastened in increments of 40 or 60 cm, due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for plasterboards up to 9.5 mm thick, inclusive, a step of 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, and heavier ones, - 40 cm. Why these values? These figures are multiples of the standard drywall sheet width of 120 cm.
Transverse profiles are attached only in increments of 50 cm (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the gypsum sheet;
With a distance between the longitudinal profiles of 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling suspensions, and “crabs” are enough for the transverse profile. At a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. The marking of the passage of electrical wiring and the place of attachment of lamps is carried out.

The result should be a drawing similar to the picture in the photo below.

Material Quantity Calculation

To illustrate the methodology for calculating materials, let's take the real dimensions of the room, and not the simplified ones: 5.6 m long, 3.8 m wide, while the length of one of the walls is 5.9 m due to a ledge of 15 cm.

1. We determine the footage of the guide bars (PN), size 28 × 27 mm - they are attached to the walls under the ceiling, serve as a support for the frame:

We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
We find the number of PS profiles: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pieces, where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m - profile length; 6.36 pcs. - the number of strips required for mounting the ceiling. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. We calculate the number of ceiling profiles (PS) with a section of 60 × 27 mm - a lattice for mounting the GKL is assembled from it. To do this, we determine the number of longitudinal and transverse rows. Since it is planned to install GKL with a thickness of 6.5 mm, the pitch for longitudinal profiles will be 60 cm, transverse - 50 cm.

Attention, very important: the construction industry does not stand still and constantly eliminates problem areas. Suspended ceilings constantly faced the fact that vibration violated the integrity of the drywall joints: they were covered with a network of cracks. Therefore, experienced gypsum plasterboard builders glued wallpaper or applied decorative plaster. Today, the seams are sealed with fiberglass mesh, which eliminates the problem.

We will calculate according to the formula: K \u003d P / L - 1, where:

K is the number of profile lines;
P is the length of the room;
L - step size (0.6 m).

Substitute the numerical values in the formula and get the amount:

Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 - 1 = 5;
Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 - 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up, we get 11 rows.

The total length of the ceiling profile will be 68.6 m (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). On sale you can find a ceiling profile with a length of 2.5 m to 4 m. In our case, the best option is 3 m. Then you have to buy 23 strips (68.6 / 3).

3. The length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, so they will have to be increased. In our example, the connection of the longitudinal parts of the frame will occur in the crab, since the step of the transverse profiles is a multiple of the length of the bar.

4. The number of "crabs" is equal to the number of intersections of the longitudinal and transverse profiles - 55 (5 x 11).

S = (D + 1) x N + (N + 1) x D, where:

S is the number of direct suspensions;
D is the number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
N is the number of rows of transverse profiles.

Substituting specific numbers into the formula, we get that for work you need to buy 126 suspensions ((5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5).

6. Self-tapping dowel 6 × 60 mm (8 × 80 mm) for installing guide profiles and mounting hangers. They are screwed into the wall every 30 cm, 2 pieces are needed for mounting 1 suspension. A total of 266 pieces are needed.

7. Screw self-tapping "bug" LN 11 (3.9 x 11), for connecting the profiles to each other on the wall - 2 pcs., with a crab - 4 pcs., with a suspension - 2 pcs. You will need 3 packs of 200 pcs.

8. Self-tapping screws for fixing drywall 3.5x25 mm. They GKL are attached to the crate. You will need 1 pack of 1,000 pcs.

9. Drywall must be purchased 3 m long so as not to make inserts (with a GKL length of 2.5 m, you will have to cut a piece 0.8 cm long in addition to 2 whole sheets). In total, 6 sheets are required ((3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)), where the first 2 digits are the dimensions of the room, the second are the length and width of the sheet.

Ceiling and wall markings

In a new building, with the help of a hydro or laser level, the horizon line is beaten off. Then, after numerous measurements, the lowest point of the ceiling is found. A minimum of 5 cm down is measured from it (when installing recessed fixtures - 10 cm) and a ceiling line is formed. For those who are faced with such concepts and methods for finding the ceiling line for the first time, we recommend that you view the article "". Here everything is one to one, only upside down.

In an apartment with a laid floor, there is no need to beat off the horizon line - the floor will successfully fulfill its role. After finding the key point (the lowest part of the ceiling space minus 5 cm), using a hydro level (laser level), a line is drawn on the wall along which the ceiling will be mounted.

On it, every 60 cm, starting from the wall, marks are placed for the passage of longitudinal ceiling profiles. A similar operation is carried out on the opposite wall. Using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule) and a pencil, vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling, after which a mark is beaten off along the ceiling with a construction cord (twine smeared with colored chalk), along which the profile will pass. If everything is done correctly, a series of lines parallel to each other and adjacent walls is obtained.

Attention: longitudinal profiles must be perpendicular to the window, regardless of the size of the room. Therefore, initially the markup is placed on the wall with a window, then on the opposite side.

A similar operation is carried out with another pair of walls, but with a step of 50 cm. The attachment points of plumb lines are marked at a distance of 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm between each other for longitudinal profiles and 25 cm from the wall with a step of 50 cm. This can be explained even more simply as follows : hangers are attached in the middle of each side of the rectangle formed by the profiles (see diagram).

Purchase of materials

This subsection is discussed above, in the "Materials and Tools" section.

Frame assembly

Work on the installation of a plasterboard ceiling begins with the installation of a supporting frame. Let's take a look at how to assemble it step by step.

Step 1. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls for attaching the guide profile. To do this, the guide is pressed tightly against the adjacent wall, while its lower edge must go strictly along the applied ceiling line. Marks for mounting dowels are drilled through the metal in the wall.

The first hole should be located 10 cm from the edge of the wall, the next - every 30 cm. There are recommendations to place the dowels every 50-70 cm, but this reduces the rigidity of the structure.

Step 2 Holes are drilled at the marks, dowels are driven into them. A damper (sealing) tape is glued to the back of the profile to prevent sound waves from entering the wall to the ceiling, after which the guide is tightly attached to the wall.

To avoid possible deflection of the ceiling at the junction of two rails, experienced builders are advised to reinforce the joints. To do this, inside the profiles, at the junction, a plate made of tin, plastic or plywood is inserted and fastened with at least 2 self-tapping screws. Thus, the UD (PN) profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room.

Important: The vast majority of authors recommend installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles, which is fundamentally wrong. With such a frame arrangement, large parts of the GKL corners adjacent to the wall remain completely loose. The result appears within a couple of months, when the sealed joints are torn and one of the sheets sags by 1-2 millimeters.

Step 3 Direct suspensions are installed on the ceiling, across the applied line. In this case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the line is strictly in the middle of the fastener. You can fix them with self-tapping dowels (2 pieces for each suspension) or anchor bolts, which is more reliable. After fixing the suspensions, their mustaches, with hands or pliers, are bent down at a right angle.

Step 4 With the help of a fishing line or nylon thread, a ceiling plane is formed. Such an operation is needed to control the level of the ceiling in the center of the room - under its own weight, the frame tends to bend down. The thread (fishing line) is pulled along each line of the longitudinal profile. To prevent the thread from sagging, it is additionally fixed on the mustache of suspensions (2-3 are enough), bent up at the desired height.

Step 5 Mounted longitudinal ceiling profiles. First, the PS-profile is inserted into the groove of the PN-profile at the place of the mark and fastened to the guide bar with “bug” screws. Then, sequentially, it is fixed in suspensions. The horizontal is controlled by a stretched fishing line and a level. The protruding mustaches of the suspensions are bent to the side.

Step 6 At the intersections of the frame to the longitudinal profile, the “crab” fastening is screwed with “bug” screws - one screw on each side.

Step 7 The transverse profiles are attached, with the ends in the "crab", in the middle with a suspension.

Heat and sound insulation

If there are noisy neighbors or the top floor, the ceiling can be insulated mineral wool, which also absorbs sounds well. Inside the frame, it is fastened with the so-called "fungus" - a special fastening system.

Drywall installation

To mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions are given below:

Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the GCR to adapt to new conditions and take a geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored only in a horizontal position;
GCR is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a notch is cut out for the ledge;

Important: in our example, for odd rows of drywall, only the last sheet is trimmed. In even rows, always the first sheet is shortened by 50 cm, and then the last sheet is brought to size. This is done so that the seams do not match.

With a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, a chamfer is removed along the cutting edge;

The first sheet is applied to the frame so that a technological gap of 1-2 mm remains near the wall - it is necessary for air exchange (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is twisted at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, the next every 20 cm. GKL are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to melt the heads of hardware into drywall manually, with a Phillips screwdriver, which will avoid twisting them. Along the edges of the sheet, at the seams, the self-tapping screws are screwed "out of order", not against each other.

Final finishing

After the installation of the false ceiling, the most crucial moment comes: the finishing of the drywall. The quality of its implementation depends appearance ceiling space. Here it is necessary to highlight the following stages of work:

sealing of connecting seams and traces from the heads of hardware;
puttying the entire surface of the ceiling;
cutting holes for lamps;
painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
installation of lamps.

Seam sealing

The joints of the sheets are sealed with reinforcing tape, "sickle". Gypsum putty is rubbed through it into the seams. At this stage, it is also necessary to putty all damage to the sheet and the head of the screws.

Puttying drywall

In many recommendations for finishing drywall, a prerequisite is indicated - applying a primer before puttying. However, under modern putty mixtures (“Vetonit LR +”, “KR”, “JS”, “Osnovit Ekonsilk”, “Plitonit KP”, “Kreps KR”) a primer is not needed. Instructions for GKL putty can be studied in the article "", paragraph 2.5. "Gypsum board putty".

Cutting holes for lights

Using the scheme drawn at the beginning of the ceiling installation, the installation locations of the lamps are marked on the drywall sheets. Holes are drilled with a removable crown for a puncher or electric drill. A crown can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is 140-350 rubles. The crown contains sets of cutting blades for cutting holes with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm.

Painting the ceiling with emulsion

How to make backlight

Without design solutions in terms of light, a suspended ceiling device practically loses its meaning - the same effect from a simply painted ceiling (except for the ability to hide some overlapping defects - in this case, a simple ceiling repair is several times cheaper).

In practice, various lighting options are used:

Contour - the light is directed from the bottom up, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, around the entire perimeter of the room;
Directional - streams of light go parallel to the surface of the ceiling. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine inside the room, or vice versa - from the center to the walls;
Standard - shades are installed in the GKL, the lamps shine down;
Curly - all lamps shine in different sides, creating an unusual light effect;
Point - the most difficult, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with the usual LED lamps miniature LEDs are mounted, indicating a luminous point on the ceiling.

You can install such lighting yourself, without resorting to the help of an electrician. There is only one difficulty here - to come up with ceiling lighting for a particular room.

How to make multiple levels

In apartments (houses) with high ceilings, it becomes possible to install multi-level suspended ceilings. In this case, the number of interior design solutions tends to infinity. There are no particular difficulties in this design of the ceiling space. The order of work is not much different from the technological process for the installation of one level:

plan in advance and draw on paper a layout of levels;
transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the fixing levels of drywall and load-bearing profiles;
mount the frame for the first level;
bend the side profile under the selected scheme;
install the side frame;
mount the frame of the second level;
distribute the wiring under the lamps;
cut drywall for both levels;
attach GKL at both levels;
cut and then bend the GKL strip for installation on the side frame;
close the box;
carry out finishing processing of the installed ceiling;
cut holes for the fixtures, and then paint the ceiling;
install lights.