A handmade wooden planer is one of the main tools of a carpenter. Its form and the principle of working with it, despite all the technical improvements, have not actually changed over the years.

The main thing for the planer and its work is the accuracy of the knife setting and the correct movement of the planer over the surface to be treated. Such work will be evidenced by freely emerging chips from the slot in the shoe. And then the whole process of planing will give you pleasure, and not turn into torment.

Having examined a lot of photos of a manual planer on the Internet, you can see that it consists of the following elements: a notch, a cutter, a wedge, a cutting depth regulator, a horn, a chipbreaker, an emphasis and a frog.

Preparing the planer for work

The knife is clamped in the vise of the workbench and the chipbreaker is exposed, and then tightened with a screw to fix it in this position. And after wedging, the chipbreaker is fixed due to its self-springiness. Next, install the knife in the tool entrance and tighten the wedge in the guides by hand.

To determine the correctness of the knife setting, turn the planer over, compare the parallelism of the surfaces of the blade and the sole. If you notice that it is necessary to adjust the knife, then release the wedge and set the knife in the desired position and then fix it again.

During planing with a knife, the thickness of the chips removed must be uniform. To ensure this, it is necessary to adjust the planer with a chipbreaker. The function of the chipbreaker can be understood from its name, and it should fit snugly against the blade and be located 1-2 mm above it.

Next, a knife with a chipbreaker attached to it earlier is installed in a block in the notch and wedged a little. After that, with the help of a hammer, carefully tap the knife so that its tip is parallel to the sole with a small protrusion. Only then the knife is fixed with a wedge using a cam or screw mechanism.

For proper work with a planer, it is necessary that the master is on the side of the workpiece. This will allow him to correctly and effortlessly make translational movements of the planer along the workpiece.

In order to avoid tipping during planing, it is necessary to press down on its front handle at the beginning of the movement, and towards the end - on the back.

precision planer

In modern specimens of metal planers with a block, the knife is most often fixed with a screw. And the second screw of the planer adjusts, with an accuracy of 10 micrometers, the thickness of the chip removal.

They are also equipped with a knife inclination regulator, which makes it possible to adjust the setting of the knife blade with one movement of the lever.

edge burning

The key to success when gouging edges is the uniform pressure on the tool over its entire plane. It is also recommended to prevent chip breakage during gouging by moving the planer along the wood fibers.

If you come across a workpiece with a non-uniform or fine structure (such as the root part), we recommend using especially sharp hand planer knives and continuously rotating the workpiece during planing.

It is easier to plan a narrow edge by applying several of these thin boards at a time. Due to this, the surface of the planer support will increase, and it will be easier to control the correct position of the planer relative to the surface being processed. Indeed, in the case when the planer moves away from the parallel with the surface to be treated, the edge will turn out to be rounded.

If you need to remove chips of greater thickness, use a sherhebel.
The end of the woodworking is easier to plan when the planer is located at an angle to its faces.
By attaching wooden elements to the edges of the workpiece with a clamp, you will eliminate the appearance of chips.
Constantly check the surface with steel squares.
For processing long workpieces, use a jointer. They can plan even against the fibers.

Planing faces

To get rid of roughness on a flat surface, processing with a grinder with a jointer is enough. A grinder, a planer with an inclination of the knife up to 60, is designed for finishing wood.

To get rid of large irregularities, it is necessary to use a sherhebel. Such a tool is equipped with a narrow convex cutter with an oval-shaped blade. It can cut chips up to 3mm thick in one pass. After processing with a sherhebel, the face must be treated with a grinder and jointer for a fine finish.

End trimming

To clean the ends, it is necessary to carry out the planer “away from you”, with short pushes. Thanks to this principle of processing, the wood fibers will be cut across and less effort will be required.

To avoid chips along the edges, they must be chamfered in advance. And an even better option would be to process first from one end to the middle, and then from the other end to the middle.

The blade deteriorates no longer even during operation, but during its interaction with other objects, during its non-use. During breaks, it is necessary to lay the planer not on the blade, but sideways. For long-term storage or during transportation, the knife must be pushed into the inside of the block.

Planer selection

With all of the above in mind, the type of planer you need depends on your goals:

sherhebel is designed for rough planing with the possibility of removing chips of large thickness;
jointer - for fine planing of long workpieces;
grinder - for especially clean planing.

Photo of a hand planer

The drawing of a hand-made wooden planer consists of five components:
block
clamping wedge
front handle
rear handle
knife
metal tale

Details of every detail

Reference: for the manufacture of wooden parts, wood of birch, pear, ash, maple, beech, hornbeam is used; wood should be healthy, straight-grained, the fibers are directed along the longitudinal axis, the humidity is not more than twelve percent; give preference to the swampy part of the trunk.

In the manufacture of pads, special attention should be paid to:
1. The plane of the notch bed on which the knife lies should be flat, made at an angle of 45 ... 50˚.
2. The knife must be free to enter the notch. The width of the notch should be greater than the width of the knife by 1.0 ... 1.5 (mm).
3. It is necessary to achieve a perfectly flat surface of the sole.

To do this, we take thick glass (12 ... 15 mm), check its plane by applying a metal ruler to the surface, if there are no gaps, then the glass surface is ideal and you can move on.
We stick sheets of paper on the glass, with different grain sizes (100 ... 320).

We start with the largest grit and end with the finest.

To check the readiness of the surface of the wooden block of the hand planer, we will draw four lines on it: one at the beginning of the spout; one at the end of the heel; one before the slot; one after the cut. If the marker disappears evenly along all four lines during grinding, then the surface of the sole of the last is ready.
4. The shoulders support the wedge. From the top width they taper to the bottom point and have zero width.

The angle of inclination of the wedge and the angle of the cheeks should be the same. This is necessary for a good clamping of the knife.

The shape can be any, convenient for the grip of the hand.

On the one hand, it should contain a plane that is parallel to the notch bed and is its continuation.
On the other hand, it should contain a circular pas for a comfortable grip by hand.

The knife should be selected from A2 steel, 2.4 mm thick, which has undergone a special heat treatment. Before installation, it is necessary to sharpen the cutting edge, align and polish

Can be made from a metal bolt, washer and nut. The bike is used to remove the blade from the block by lightly hitting the bike with a hammer.

The proposed model proved to be excellent in work.

How to make a do-it-yourself planer simply and effectively

In order to carry out work with curved or concave bases, they came up with humpbacks-moulders, with the help of which textured planing of wooden blanks is carried out. These elements have a special shape. They do not have special advantages in comparison with planers. In addition, it is quite problematic to work with such devices. In order for the processing of parts to be of high quality, it is necessary to gain some experience in such work, as well as special skills.

To date, it is very difficult to find kalevka in construction stores, since almost all stores sell electronic equipment. It is for this reason that it is much easier to make a planer yourself.

The iron element will determine the dimensions of the homemade planer body, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to start manufacturing the iron element, as well as the chipbreaker. For a planer of small dimensions, you can take an iron element from an old product, and for a device with oval-shaped elements, you can purchase "pieces of iron" at any hardware store. Such devices are littered along the radius initially, you can buy them together with suitable chip breakers. The planer drawing is very simple and understandable, almost anyone can create it.

Selecting and processing workpiece

In a significant part of all cases, planers are made from the most common types of wood - maple, birch and others. The workpiece must be made 30-50 millimeters larger than the final dimensions of the manufactured device. The width can be determined using the following formula: the dimensions of the "piece of iron" + 3 mm + on the cheeks 20 mm + additional 6 mm for the possibility of processing on the machine. If the planer is made of small dimensions, then the cheeks may have a thickness of about 6 mm.

The instrument should be marked so that the rings are parallel to the sole, and the fiber goes down to the back from the front. So that after sawing all parts of the structure can be connected correctly, a triangle should be drawn on the front of the block, the top of which looks up.

First of all, it is necessary to make two parts of the middle section, between which a “piece of iron” and a chipbreaker are fixed with a wedge. Then you need to fix 2 cheeks.

The body of the planer is assembled from a workpiece, which is sawn into two parts. Cheeks are cut out with a band saw. Then the middle section is sawn into several elements. At the same time, it will be necessary to make a bed of the iron element, as well as a distance for the chipbreaker. A wedge can be cut from a cut that will no longer be used. At the end of the assembly, the sole and body must be processed into shape. At the end, the planer is adjusted.

Note that the middle element should be 1 mm wider than the piece of iron. In addition, allow for an allowance of 1 mm to process the middle part of the tool to a rectangular shape. Cheeks can be marked using a saw. We place the bed of the piece of iron at an angle of 45 degrees, so the chips can come out without any difficulties. The notch of the front opening is placed at an angle of 60 degrees. I saw the middle element into the front part - the toe and the back part - the heel.

Then you need to make a simple template from plywood sheets, with which you select the groove for the screw head, it ends at a distance of about 20 mm from the bottom of the case. The groove can be selected with a chisel.

Tool pre-assembly

When making a homemade planer, it is necessary to slightly process the mouth of the middle element with a file, using the outline of the "piece of iron". Then the rear part of this section is placed on the edge, the iron element is put in place, and then the front part is pushed up to it. In the end, you need to check the correct fit.

After that, the structure is moved apart so that a gap of 3 mm appears between the components of the middle element of the planer for a “piece of iron” with a thickness of 4.5 mm, which forms the mouth of the tool. Further, all parts of the structure will need to be aligned and compressed. Through the cheeks in the middle section on the two sides, holes will need to be drilled so that the dowels can be installed and glued.

It is worth noting that a significant part of the planes has the shape of a rectangle, so you should not waste time ennobling the design.

In the side parts, you need to choose small holes for the fingers, if they are available, it will be convenient to hold the tool. Corners need to be chamfered.

When the planer has its final shape, it will be necessary to saw off the chamfers. Until that time, they will be able to guarantee the exact alignment of all parts so that the adjustment of the cross rod can be carried out. So that during the gluing of the parts of the structure, the dowels do not interfere, it is necessary to saw them flush with the cheeks.

Completion of tool making

On the extreme parts of the rod, you will need to mount round spikes, they will go into the holes in the cheeks. Thanks to these spikes, the structure will be able to rotate at an angle to the wedge. In order to be able to make holes for the rod on the top element of the planer, an additional line should be drawn at an angle of 90 degrees to the side parts. After that, 1 cheek is removed from the assembly, and with the installed “piece of iron” and a chip breaker, the line is transferred to another cheek. The second cheek is removed from the middle part and, with a gap of 20 mm from the bottom of the tool and 12 mm from the top of the chipbreaker, mark the center of the hole intended for the rod.

Note that in order to guarantee the exact location of the hole in the rod, it must be done on a drilling device.

The cheeks are aligned along the drawn lines, then they are compressed with clamps, after which a hole is drilled.

You can make a rod from a bar, which has a section of 12 * 12 mm. The length of the rod should be equal to the width of the structure, taking into account the cheeks. The length of the spikes is determined based on the thickness of the cheeks. At the ends of the rod, four shoulders must be made. Next, the spikes are rounded with a knife.

In order for the chips to exit uninterruptedly, it is necessary to round off the upper ribs of the middle part of the rod. After the rod is ready, you need to check its fit to the tool. The rod should rotate without problems.

Final Assembly of the Element

Video about a small wooden planer with your own hands

After fitting the rod, you need to check the location of the dowels and spikes. These parts of the structure should be flush with the cheeks. All parts will need to be glued and secured with clamps, while the cheeks must be protected with gaskets. When the glue dries, it is necessary to start cleaning the protruding solution. In order to be able to level the sole over the joints, it is necessary to walk over the product once with a planer.

The wedge can be made from cutting from the middle part, it must be installed between the rod and the chipbreaker. If the wedge is flat, it will be hard to knock out. If the angle is too large, then the wedge can be knocked out even with minor blows.

After the planer is assembled, it will be necessary to make a sole and remake the mouth in order to finally fit it to the iron element, taking into account the purpose of the manufactured product. A narrow gap in front of the "piece of iron" is a prerequisite in order to finely remove chips. And a gap of 0.8 mm is more suitable for coarse chips.

The most labor-intensive part of making a planer is fitting the mouth of the tool to the piece of iron. The letok must be rounded according to the bends of the iron element. This can only be done through a small opening in the sole of the planer. If the product is made to remove thin chips, then care must be taken to ensure that the gap of the mouth is as narrow as possible.

The iron element should be fixed at the uneven line of the front of the middle element, after that, begin to give the correct shape to the sole. To do this, you need to clamp the manufactured product in a vice with the sole up and from the ribs to the middle, where you need to remove some wood. Then the design should be processed with a planer with a flat sole.

When a distance of 0.8 mm remains in the planer to the radius of the “piece of iron”, you need to switch to the cycle. They do this in order to be able to remove traces of the planer. Then a small skin is fixed on the plate and the lower part of the planer is cleaned with long equal passes, while the tool should be rocked from side to side. Then they examine the contours of the sole of the "piece of iron". At the end, the sole of the micron skin should be cleaned, which is attached to a flat base.

After stripping, the piece of iron will not be able to pass through the mouth of the product. For this reason, it is necessary to remove the wood in front of the "piece of iron" with a small file. Remove until the iron element matches the mouth. As a result, the “piece of iron” should come out of the sole a little.

If the quality of the product made suits you, then the tool can be varnished. On the sides of the planer, it is advised to apply an additional layer of varnish.

Note that during the gluing of all parts of the product, it is necessary to remove all excess glue in a timely manner, which can stick out after being compressed in the vice of a planer.

Making a planer out of wood is not difficult if you take into account all the available nuances. You must follow the correct procedure, as well as have all the necessary materials and tools.

How to make a do-it-yourself grinder

It is extremely useful, fits comfortably in the hands and is inexpensive to manufacture. This beautiful tool will make your lips stretch into a smile when you feel the beauty of working with it.

Overall dimensions, homemade planer mm: 54x178x76 (width x length x height)

The cost of high-quality planers with wooden inserts, which are produced in limited series, is measured in hundreds, and sometimes thousands of dollars. This tool is similar to them, but it is smaller and more convenient, and better suited for working with small details. Craft it from inexpensive maple wood with contrasting exotic porosity accents, adding an S25 blade.

How to make a planer block

1. Start with a maple blank measuring 64x60x230 mm. Mark vertical and oblique lines on the side face (Fig. 1) and extend them to the other three [workpieces. Using a drill press, make a 6mm hole in the center of the workpiece. Then drill four 6 x 25 mm holes in the corners on both sides (photo A).

2 Saw off cheeks A from the workpiece (photo B) and draw lines again on the rest of the workpiece. Cut the workpiece along the marking so that the saw blade passes close to the lines, and separate the heel B and toe C (photo C).

Add a planer sole to the block

1 Assemble the last by gluing cheeks A, heel B, and toe C together (photo D). When the glue dries, sand the underside of the last to make it flat. Brief advice! Use spray adhesive to attach a piece of sandpaper to a cast iron table saw or a piece of thick glass to level the underside of the block.

2. To add a durable outsole D, glue a 19x57x185mm cocobolo piece to the underside of last A/B/C, center aligned, and secure with clamps.

3. With a pencil, mark the thickness of the sole D by drawing a line parallel to the bottom edge of the shoe at a distance of 3 mm. Remove excess material with a band saw (photo E). (- save the cut to make a wedge of it E. Then file the protruding edges flush with the cheeks of the last. Sand the sole in the same way as before and remove all traces of sawing.

Form a mouth

1. Extend the oblique marking lines from the cheeks A to the underside of the sole D. Drill holes for the mouth (photo F) and trim the edges with a chisel (photo G).

2. Make a copy of the side template of the last (Fig. 1), and attach to one and: * Cheeks A using spray adhesive. Cut along the contour with a band saw (photo H), then widen the gap of the mouth so that a planer blade can pass through it (photo I).

Finish planer to final shape and add wedge

1. Glue a 6 mm brass rod into the holes of the cheeks (Fig. 2, photo J) and align its ends flush with the cheeks A using a file.

Then make a copy of the profile template (Fig. 3) and stick it on a piece of thick cardboard. Carefully cut out the template along the contour lines and mark the shape of the bell with it (photo K). File off the excess material with a band saw and sand the planer smooth.

2. Mark and cut the wedge blank E from the rest of the sole blank (photo L). Sand the beveled edge flat and check how the wedge fits into the shoe (photo M). Further sand or file the clip so that it fits snugly between the brass rod and the blade.

Note. If you have the same rounded blade for the Scherhebel planer, make it square before sharpening it at a 25° angle. We also shortened it to 95 mm with a hacksaw, but you can leave the original length and this will not degrade the properties of the blade.

3. File the wedge to the final length and shape (Fig. 4). Then round off the top corners of heel B and toe C to make the planer comfortable to hold. Sand all the flying with #220 sandpaper and apply wax paste for finishing. Use a wooden mallet to adjust the blade reach. If you hit it lightly on the heel of the block, the blade will retract and the chips will be thinner. With light strokes on the blade, it can be extended, as well as tilted to the right or left.

Do-it-yourself planer - photo

A. The workpiece is first sawn into pieces, which are then glued together again. Auxiliary holes will help to accurately align them when gluing.

B. Saw off cheeks 6 mm thick from the workpiece. To safely guide a short workpiece and control the cut, use a pusher from a wide board cut.

C. To keep your fingers at a safe distance from the blade and make precise miter cuts, clamp the workpiece to the cross fence pad.

D. Apply glue evenly on heel B and toe C, glue cheeks A and insert 25 mm dowels into the holes.

E. Sole blank D protrudes beyond the cheeks of the last. To ensure that the block is horizontal when sawing, attach a 6 mm board with double-sided tape.

F. With a 5mm center point drill, carefully make a series of holes between the marking lines and remove excess material from the edges of the gap.

G. Resting the blade on the bevels of heel B and toe C, guide the chisel to trim the edges and corners of the gap, removing excess.

H. While cutting along the dotted lines of the template, remove the dowel ends and shape the last into the shape shown.

I. Widen the gap first with a coarse file, then file the surfaces with a velvet file until smooth.

J. Apply cyanoacrylate ("second") glue to the top edges of the holes so that the inserted brass rod will push the glue into the depth.

K. Using a cardboard profile template, draw smooth lines from toe to heel. Press the template firmly so that it does not move.

L. Mark a 10° angle on the edge at one end of the workpiece. Tape the blank to the rectangular cut and cut along the line with a band saw.

M. Insert the blade into the block, then the wedge blank (without shortening it yet) and make a few light blows with a mallet. Dents will appear on convex places.

List of materials and parts

Do-it-yourself electric planer

For many, working with wood brings great pleasure. It's nice to make a table for the veranda with your own hands, assemble a garden bench or change a leaky board. Only the joys of creativity are overshadowed by the routine physical work that electric planes are designed to deal with. Everyone, even a beginner, can work with a manual electric planer.

The purpose of the electric planer

The planer is the oldest woodworking tool after the axe. Any professional treats him with special respect. The painstaking work of the designers and the electricity of the planers made it even more perfect and efficient. Thus, modern electric planers outwardly resemble their mechanical counterparts, however, new designs are several times more productive than manual labor.

The electric planer is intended for processing wood, reducing the thickness of wood products, preliminary planing, fitting, processing boards on a frame, beveling edges and creating an extended recess of various shapes in products (chamfers, quarters, tongues). All this is called by one term - planing. This tool is not suitable for processing a larger area, but with small volumes it makes it easier for the frequent repairer or professional when working with wood.

The main function for a planer is to level a wooden surface that has previously been roughly processed. After leveling the product with a planer, all irregularities and defects disappear from the surface, and it becomes extremely smooth. Finishing wood is usually done with a grinding planer. With an electric planer, you can also make a chamfer or groove in the workpiece.

The design of the electric planer

The design of an electric planer is quite simple. Let's take a closer look at the electric planer circuit and its constituent elements.

Rotating drum

In the body of the electric planer, on the base plate, there is the main working element - a rotating drum, on which the knives are attached. As a rule, in the "knife drum" there are two, less often three or one, knives, which are engaged in cutting the upper surface of the planed wood. The knife shaft is much more technologically advanced than a conventional cutter, and the power of the tool allows you to work without any additional effort.

Knives are made from tungsten, hardened steel or carbide. According to the number of knives that are fixed on the drum, electric planes are "two-legged9raquo; and “one-legged9raquo;. The first type of tool works only with precise alignment, otherwise only one knife will work, the second is simple and productive. Electric planers with a knife fixed obliquely on the drum are capable of making a specific “spiral9raquo; cut for high-quality planing of the board.

Over time, knives wear out. There are reusable knives that need to be sharpened or disposable knives that need to be changed. The frequency of these procedures is largely determined by operational loads: the type of wooden surface and the time of their processing.
To remove the knife, slightly loosen the bolts that press the knife holders. They are easily removed from the grooves of the drum. Knives after sharpening are put in place, leveling in height with each other, as in the video about the electric planer.

Straight carbide knives, thanks to the presence of a centering groove, are easily mounted in their place in the holders, which in turn are inserted into the grooves of the drum. Sharpened steel knives need more careful height alignment.

Electric planer sole

The sole of the electric planer is made of cast aluminum and is divided into 2 parts relative to the drum - front and rear. The rear part is fixedly attached, while the height of the front part, which is able to move on the still unfinished wood, can be set using a knob or a button. The position of the front part primarily determines the depth of planing or, in other words, the thickness of the chips.

The sole affects the stability of the electric planer. In any case, this element should not interfere with work and be smooth. The soles, which are produced by some manufacturers, have several V-shaped grooves in their surface, which are needed for chamfering the corners of the workpiece.

Electrical part

The rotating drum is connected to an electric motor by means of a drive belt, which is responsible for the transmission of rotational motion. The drive belt needs to be changed from time to time. But this activity is not at all troublesome, because belts are sold in all tool stores. The old belt can be dismantled independently. To facilitate this operation, the manufacturers made the protective cover removable.

The electric motor has a power of 580 - 900 W, its rotation speed reaches 1000 rpm. The quality of the treated surface depends largely on the engine power. The electric planer device has a switch with a lock and a cord with a plug, as well as various electronic components: changing or stabilizing speed, soft start, drum balancing, overload protection, and even an electronic brake.

Tool handles

Two handles are used to move along the working surface of the electric planer. The back of them allows you to push the tool, it has a start / stop trigger; with double security system. With the help of the front additional handle, they only direct the movement of the electric planer, the same handle allows you to work “on a grand scale”. If you press hard on the front handle, then at the end of the processed material you can remove a large layer of wood.

Since the adjustment knob is sometimes used as a second knob, it is often made with internal notches so that it can be raised when switching, otherwise it is possible to knock down an inadvertently set chip thickness during operation. A handle without such notches is able to adjust this parameter on the go, but this does not allow you to get rid of unwanted switching.

The switching step is usually 0.1 millimeters, but each electric planer has its own differences. The cutting depth can be set by turning the knob. At the same time, the front part of the sole drops or rises, opening the drum with knives less or more.

Knife protection

Two types of protective devices protect the work surface and fingers from below and to the side from contact with the knives. At the bottom of the sole there is a leg, as in the photo of an electric planer, which is automatically ejected, slightly lifting the back of the sole. The movable safety leg will recline when the electric planer is not working and protect the workpiece from contact with the knives. Also, the planer can be laid on its side, with the drive belt cover down.

The protective plate on the side of the spring closes the edge of the knife drum and rises as much as the planer will go deep into the wood when choosing a quarter. The side edge of the knife drum, which allows you to select a quarter, is hidden under the turning plate.

Chip ejection

The direct chip ejection procedure eliminates clogging of the electric planer and occurs in three ways. In the first case, technical excesses are not required, the chips will scatter throughout the room, but the work surface will not clog.

The possibility of directing the ejection chute in some models facilitates the removal of chips, this is the second option for ejecting chips. The bag holds a large amount of chips, although it is not too bulky. If you need a bag, you should ask if there is one in the kit and if it is possible to buy it in addition.

A good solution to the problem is to connect with a corrugated hose to a vacuum cleaner, but it will not completely rid you of debris. Depending on the location of the operating electric planer, it is convenient to direct the ejection of chips in a certain direction.

To do this, you just need to switch the key to the desired position. The method is simple, but inconvenient in some cases, because the hose and cord limit the maneuverability of the structure.

Electric planer accessories

There are many different accessories for the tool, regardless of the price of electric planers. For example, wavy knives made of hardened steel of different overall dimensions, which are used for roughing, as well as equipment that allows you to install a planer motionless and turn it into a planer and an automatic jointer at the same time.

The side stop, together with the depth gauge, is able to accurately set the width and thickness of the chip being removed. To cut a corner, it is customary for some limiters to tilt from 0 to 45 degrees. When planing a thin edge, the side stop will help to give the planer the necessary balance. Of all the accessories described above, of all possible ones, they must be included in the kit.

Specifications

The power of the electric planer is 0.4 - 2 kW. For home use and do-it-yourself repairs, an electric planer is suitable, which has a power of 500 - 900 watts. For simple and short-term work, a household-class electric planer or a home-made low-power electric planer is suitable. And for real masters, you only need a professional powerful tool.

The rotation speed of the cutter can affect the surface finish and is 10 - 18 thousand revolutions per minute. In some models, the rotation speed can be changed. It is also able to be maintained at a constant level by electronics, which is very convenient when working with hardwoods.

The planing width is 82 millimeters or more. This figure matters when you spend most of your time working on boards. For many companies, the planing width of wood usually does not exceed 82 mm, but there are companies on the market, for example, Interskol9raquo ;, which increased the planing width to about 102 millimeters.

You can set the cutting depth in the range of 0 - 4 millimeters. It is smooth and step by step. The edge sampling depth ranges from 0 to 25 millimeters, respectively.

Making an electric planer with your own hands

The electric planer that you will be making is designed to process in one pass wood that has a width of up to 120 millimeters and a processing depth of up to 1.2 millimeters. The workpiece will rest on a plate with a hole for the knife shaft. The guide square is attached to the base plate with 2 screws M8, which have plastic heads, it prevents the lateral displacement of the product during processing.

To the base plate are attached from below with M6 screws that have countersunk heads, the bearing bearings of the knife rotating shaft. It is customary to install a V-belt pulley outside the base plate at the end of the knife shaft. The plate is fixed with 10 screws to the body of the electric planer, which is welded from a steel corner measuring 20 by 20 by 3 millimeters.

The protective casing is connected to the body with three M6 screws with cylindrical heads above the V-belt transmission through spring washers. The electric motor of the tool is placed inside the body and connected to it by means of 2 supports in the form of steel strips. They have 2 holes with a diameter of approximately 6.5 mm, which are designed for mounting on the body of the electric planer with their own hands, as well as 2 grooves each for installing and adjusting the position of the electric motor to tension the belt.

The electric motor of the device is controlled from the remote control located on the front of the case. Under the U-shaped bracket inside the remote control there are 2 phase-shifting capacitors, which are fixed in parallel and have a capacity of 4 microfarads. The switch is mounted outside on the console. From direct hit of dust and shavings the motor is protected by a casing.

First of all, make a base plate. The most time-consuming operation is the execution of a figured slot in the plate, which is intended for the exit of knives. To do this, use an electric drill with a cutting wheel of small diameter or drill along the contour of the hole, and then file the slot. After drilling the mounting holes in the base plate, threaded holes are made along them in 4 upper corners of the electric planer body.

Before welding, the upper corners are attached to the base plate with 10 screws, the remaining corners of the body are attached to them by welding. Then the base plate is removed, and the body is finally welded along the contour, cleaning the welds. Particularly carefully cleaned along the plane in which the housing is adjacent to the base plate. At the same time, gaps are unacceptable, because they provoke vibration during the operation of the electric planer. Consider this before you make an electric planer with your own hands.

Make sure after assembly that the cutter shaft will rotate counter-clockwise - in the direction of feed, as judged from the console. This feature is of great importance, because the technique of fastening the V-belt pulley to the knife shaft does not allow it to move in the opposite direction. Fasten the planer body without gaps with 4 M6 screws before starting work.

The knife shaft for cutting grooves is equipped with 2 knives that have a width of 120 millimeters, or one knife. On the opposite side of the shaft, in the latter case, a counterweight is installed to eliminate imbalance and vibration. Each knife is fixed with pressure plates and 3 M8 screws, which are screwed into the through threaded holes of the rotating knife shaft.

For knives, the most affordable blanks are the worked-out hacksaw blade for metal, which has a thickness of about 3 millimeters. The sharpening angle of the cutting edge of the knives should be within 30 - 40 degrees. With curly sharpening, you can get a relief surface for artistic frames or platbands.

Narrow and thin profile strips that have a width of less than 10 millimeters can be prepared by ripping a wider board. When working with narrow knives (less than 12 millimeters), it is not recommended to process grooves that have a depth of 8 millimeters, due to a lack of tool strength.

Now you know how to make an electric planer, it remains to learn how to properly sharpen knives for it. We'll talk about this in the next article.

For every craftsman who does not have a lathe at his disposal, the eternal problem is in the manufacture of round, cylindrical parts from wood, even such simple ones as tongues, tool handles. Some craftsmen use a conductor for these purposes - a steel plate with a thickness of at least 6 mm with holes of different diameters.

Quite often, in the activities of a radio amateur, situations arise when third-party help is simply needed. For example, when you need to hold a part with one hand, manipulate a soldering iron or other tool with the other, and there are not enough hands to hold the circuit board. Some amateurs make rather complex “third hand” designs using various hinges and magnets, but we offer very simple and cheap holders to help radio amateurs.

If you decide to make yourself a thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands, drawings, visual videos and our recommendations will help you achieve your goal. By itself, an electric planer is a useful tool in the household. But to buy a thickness gauge for domestic purposes is quite an expensive pleasure. Therefore, many decide to assemble the equipment on their own, based on an electric planer.

To assemble a thickness gauge from an electric planer, you will need a set of materials and tools necessary for the future machine.

If you need a thickness gauge in order to generate income from the products that you will process on the machine, then the best solution would be to buy a ready-made device. If the thickness gauge is a purely domestic use tool for homework, then you can safely make it yourself.

The main components for assembling the unit are:

Electric planer. Please note that each time it will not be possible to re-equip the thickness gauge into a conventional electric planer and assemble the machine from it back. Therefore, it is better to make a unit from a planer, which is not a pity;
Blueprints. You can make your own drawing, based on the characteristics and features of the electric planer, the planned work and the parts that the machine must process. It is more difficult to adapt ready-made drawings for yourself, since each of them is based on certain models of an electric planer, materials used, parameters, etc .;
Wooden blocks and plywood. Of these, you will assemble the body of the future thicknessing machine;
Free time. To make a machine with your own hands, you do not need much time. But you should not try to assemble the unit in a couple of hours, otherwise the result may disappoint you.

The main emphasis in designing a thickness gauge based on an electric planer is on the correspondence between the characteristics and capabilities of the machine with the workpieces being processed. Make sure before starting assembly that the equipment will receive a body, studs, guides that perfectly match the parts you will be dealing with.

Studs and guides

These components of the thickness gauge based on an electric planer should be discussed separately, since they play a significant role in the efficiency and effectiveness of the thickness gauge.

Studs allow you to lower and raise the surface gage when processing workpieces.
Often, beginners install a hairpin exactly in the middle of the machine body. But this decision is wrong. If you decide to make a machine, the pin should be installed in the middle between the front and rear handles of the device. This arrangement will provide convenient work with the equipment, will allow you to securely fix the tool in the desired position. Problems during operation will be much less.
When converting an electric planer to a thickness gauge, try to give the tool pin maximum mobility. To do this, install a rolling bearing on the top cover with your own hands.
On the middle plate of the machine, which will be responsible for adjusting the height, fasten the nut. This solution will provide you with the ability to adjust the position of the equipment with a small step and increased accuracy. This is true for particularly delicate processing with a thickness gauge.
Guides are used for precise and efficient processing of workpieces. They are made from wooden bars, so the cost of assembling equipment can be considered minimal.
When making guides for an electric planer, make a certain margin in length. They are not recommended to be made identical to the length of the processed workpieces. Perform these elements a little more.
The lower plane of the thickness gauge from an electric planer is made so that when processing the product, it moves immediately parallel to the cutters of the device. If the plane starts under the power tool, you will not be able to obtain high machining accuracy. Therefore, the efficiency of such a machine will be reduced to a minimum.

Security measures

Any home-made power tool, machine tool imposes increased requirements on safety issues during operation. Therefore, if you decide to make a thickness gauge based on an electric planer with your own hands, be sure to familiarize yourself with the basic rules for its use. This will protect you from injury and also extend the life of the tool itself.

When cutting blanks with your own hands with a thickness gauge, always wear special safety glasses;
When working with dense, rough workpieces, keep your hands in gloves;
Before turning on the equipment, make sure that all its elements are securely fixed, the wiring is not exposed. This must be done before each new working day;
Knives and studs must not have defects, damage, cracks on their surface. If they are found, these elements are subject to immediate replacement;
Make sure that the workpieces being processed do not have metal components - staples, nails, screws, self-tapping screws. When they hit the thickness gauge, this threatens not only with injuries, but also with the complete failure of the machine itself.

Rules for working on the machine

Having assembled a workable thickness gauge from an electric planer with your own hands and familiarized yourself with the recommendations for safe operation, you can begin to process the workpieces.

In this regard, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with a few practical tips.

There is nothing complicated in working on a home-made thicknessing machine built on the basis of an electric planer. Therefore, a beginner can handle such a unit.
Install the pin in the correct position. It is mounted at a certain distance relative to the edge of the workpiece.
Set the size that matches the part, fix the bar that acts as a guide.
Tilt the equipment slightly away from you. This will expose the cutting stud of your electrical equipment.
Now pull the tool towards you. This ensures the work of the thicknesser, which removes layers of material from the workpieces.
If you correctly assemble the unit, taking into account all the recommendations and following the drawings, a home-made electric thickness gauge based on a conventional electric planer will not be much inferior to factory equipment in terms of its functionality, performance and efficiency.

The abundance of drawings and schemes for assembling a thickness gauge from a power tool allows you to profitably use an old unnecessary electric planer. Without special skills and experience, beginners manage to build excellent machines.

As you expand your needs and gain new experience, the machine can be improved, or modern, high-power electric planers can be used to assemble it.

If you need a thickness gauge for the manufacture of large volumes of blanks with their subsequent sale, you can hardly get by with a home-made device. For such purposes, it is recommended to purchase factory equipment from trusted manufacturers. Due to the quality and productivity, the cost of buying a machine will justify itself over time, and you will receive a net profit.

An electric planer is a power tool designed for planing, sawn timber, chamfering workpieces, sampling a quarter from wooden parts. Its practical application increases labor efficiency. Using this tool, specialists also perform other operations related to wood processing. Modern, especially professional models, have advanced functionality. When handled correctly, they are safe to use. But it is not always possible to purchase a factory tool. In this case, you can make an electric planer with your own hands. This will require available parts and materials.

Electric planers, having appeared in the middle of the 20th century, became widespread. They have practically supplanted their manual counterparts. Thanks to their application, painstaking work has turned into more productive work. At the same time, the final quality of processing is high if you work correctly with this power tool.

Factory products are represented by a wide variety of models, which, despite their different appearance, consist of structural units common to all. They work with such electric planers in two ways:

using them as a portable hand-held power tool;
fixing it on a table or workbench in a stationary position (upside down - with a drum to the top).

The creation of a permanently fixed electric planer is considered the most suitable (simple) for independent practical implementation. The assembled device will have structural elements in common with factory-made products, such as:

an electric motor, which is the drive mechanism of a home-made device;
a protective cover that protects the worker's hands from moving blades;
on/off button;
a drum with knives mounted on it, designed for planing wood;
a transmission mechanism by which the movement of the motor shaft is transmitted to the drum with blades.

Role do-it-yourself device soles a plate with a flat surface, for example, made of metal, plywood or boards, or a table (workbench) will perform. In the latter case, you do not need to make legs for the machine. If the drum is attached to the plate, you will need to make a bed. It must be of a suitable height: to match the height of the woodworker in order to ensure comfortable work.

Necessary materials and tools

Consider the manufacture of the simplest design, designed for a planing depth of up to 1.2 mm and a width of processed wooden blanks up to 120 mm. To assemble such an electric planer with your own hands, you will need the following materials and parts:

bearings;
steel strips;
pressure plates;
screws M6 and M8 with nuts;
spring washers;
metal corners (20x20x3 mm);
staples;
a sheet of plywood (10 mm) or metal (3-5 mm thick);
belt drive pulleys mounted on the motor shaft and drum;
a drum (with one or two knives) from an old planer or electric planer, on which cutting nozzles can be changed;
a working electric motor from a grinder, an old electric planer or a planer;
belt;
button (switch) for turning on and off the electric planer;
wires and a cord with a plug;
residual current device (RCD);
capacitors (if the motor used is three-phase).

Installation separate RCD for an electric planer in a shield (even directly on the machine) will increase electrical safety when working with equipment. Protection is selected according to the power of the working engine. The cord and wires must be suitable, taking into account the power of the installed electric motor, section.

Must be connected in parallel. In this case, the required total capacitance is determined by the power of the installed electric motor: approximately 100 microfarads per 1 kW. Capacitors must be rated for mains voltage.

To implement the project, you will need the following tools:

several wrenches designed to tighten nuts on bolts;
roulette;
building level;
marker or pencil;
welding machine with electrodes;
electric drill with drills and with a circle of small diameter intended for cutting;
electric jigsaw with files to it for wood and metal or similar hand saws;
angle grinder complete with wheels for cutting metal.

Construction drawings

The drawings of the bed, to which all the details of the structure being created will be attached, are given below.

The part being machined will be based on plate surface, fixed with 10 bolts to a frame welded from steel corners. A groove is cut in it for a drum with knives. In order to guide the workpieces and prevent their lateral displacements, an angle is also attached to the base plate with M8 screws.

Shaft with knives(work drum) will be attached under the table top with M6 screws. To do this, bearings will be placed at its ends, which will be fixed to the plate with special fasteners. The movement from the electric motor to the working drum will be carried out by a belt drive.

Motor is installed inside the frame on a shelf of two steel strips, with holes drilled in them of the appropriate diameter for the bed fastening bolts.

It should be borne in mind that the slots for the engine mounts (mounting grooves) must be made several centimeters wide (2-3) in order to be able to tension the transmission belt.

shroud, fixed with M6 screws with spring washers to the corner, close the belt drive. The power button is installed in a convenient place on the body of the electric planer.

When working with a grinder and drilling, it is necessary put on glasses They will protect your eyes from metal chips. In general, when working with any tool, you should follow safety rules and use personal protective equipment.

Algorithm for manufacturing an electric planer

With their own hands, an electric planer is assembled by performing the steps in the following sequence.

Prepare the base plate. To do this, a rectangle of the required size is cut out of metal, according to preliminary marking, a slot is made in it for the drum, and holes are also drilled to secure it.
Along the perimeter of the plate, steel corners are screwed with screws, which are then welded at the joints with each other.
Cut 4 blanks of the appropriate length from the same corners for the legs of the equipment.
The cut off racks are welded to the corners fixed on the plate.
They make from strips of steel at the bottom of the frame (given the length of the belt), a shelf for the electric motor, with pre-drilled holes for fixing it and adjusting the position.
Clean up welds.
Take off the plate.
The upper joints of the corners, which were directly under the plate, are boiled so that there are no gaps between them.
The resulting seams with a grinder or a file are compared with the upper plane of the frame.
Install the plate in place.
The drum is fixed under the slot on the bearings with the help of clamps or brackets.
Install the motor so that its shaft extends beyond the edge of the table;
Put the pulleys on the shaft of the electric motor and drum.
Install a belt drive.
Set the position of the electric motor so that the belt is sufficiently tensioned.
They make a casing from plywood or tin. It is fixed to the corners of the frame with screws, closing the belt drive and protecting the electric motor from debris, dust, and moisture.
Sheathe the frame with plywood from the mounting side of the start button and mount it.
If necessary, fix the capacitor unit on the wall of the case.
They assemble the electrical circuit: connect the power cord, control button, circuit breaker and capacitors (if required).
Perform a test run on the equipment.

When starting the power tool, its drum must rotate in the direction from which the processed lumber will be fed.

The metal for the stove is cut with a grinder or a jigsaw. To cut a groove, it is convenient to use electric jigsaw, having previously drilled a hole for his file in the plate, or with an electric drill with an appropriate nozzle. The edges of the slot are processed with a file so as not to get hurt about them later.

You can fix the metal base plate with flat head screws (so that they do not interfere with work) or by welding it. The first option is preferable, because if necessary, the electric planer is easy to disassemble.

Before installing the drum, it is recommended to check the quality of sharpening his knives. If it is bad, then it is better to sharpen the blades immediately, using, for example, an ordinary whetstone. It is necessary to constantly monitor that the cutting nozzles are well fixed without distortions.

The basis for the independent manufacture of knives are steel plates or hacksaw blades for metal, sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees.

Hacksaw blade

The sequence of making an electric planer from a grinder with the working drum placed in a vertical position is shown in the videos below. It also shows possible errors when assembling a homemade product.

Another option for creating a homemade electric planer from an old, non-working model is shown step by step in the video below.

With the help of the made power tool, you can process boards, bars and other workpieces. A do-it-yourself electric planer must be used, always observing safety requirements. Parts must be fed correctly so that your fingers do not get into the drum.

There are many options for homemade electric planers. They have a different degree of complexity of execution, as well as different functionality. In this regard, the limitations are mainly related to the technical thinking of the inventors and the parts and materials available "at hand". If necessary, the made equipment can also be equipped with automation tools.

If you are a craftsman, you would probably like to learn how to make original cuts on wooden surfaces, such as on antique cornices or furniture. There is nothing complicated about this, you just need a special tool - a planer-moulder.

History or Present – Mauling in Action

The first planer was brought to Russia by Peter I, before that, carpenters and joiners used an arcuate blade with two handles at the end to remove bark and shavings. The craftsmen appreciated the tool, moreover, they began to actively invent new models of planers. Who exactly invented the planer-moulder or, in other words, the moulder, is now beyond excavation, but the tool has remained, and not only in history, but also in many workshops.

If you look in detail, then the curly profile of a bar or board, which is obtained as a result of processing with a moulder, is also called moulding. In modern workshops, special workbenches more often cope with this task, but the resulting profiles are mass products, without imagination and zest. But each master has his own moulder, respectively, and the moulder turns out to be original. The variety of obtained profiles is huge. For cornices - some "patterns", for decorative details of furniture - others. Plus, many old-school craftsmen make tools with their own hands and grind the planer-moulder knife according to their own understanding of the correct forms. There are several types of tools that are similar to the moulder and perform similar functions, but differ in size.

These tools include a cornice - a profile curly planer. By and large, this is a wider kalevka. Another cornice is called a baguette and a fillet. Quite often, such a tool has two blades. By itself, the tool turns out to be quite heavy due to the wide profile, reaching 80 mm - it is quite difficult to plan this one, so they often work together as a cornice. One master directs, and the second pulls.

Semi-fillets have a narrower profile, with such a tool the master can work alone. There are also staples and half-shoulders - the staple is used to select the roller on the workpiece, the half-shap accordingly selects the half-cushion. As a rule, such tools used to be produced in sets - 8-9 tools of one type and 8-9 of another. To work with concave or convex surfaces, there are so-called humpbacks, with the help of which the textured planing of parts is performed. Nothing special, except for their shape, the tools do not stand out, of course, you still need to learn how to work with them.

How to make a planer with your own hands - processing the workpiece

Finding a kalevka in modern stores stuffed with electronic equipment will be quite difficult. Wouldn't it be easier to make a tool with your own hands, put a piece of your soul into it and create a mold of an unusual section? If you are ready to perform such a task, then you should not put it off until later. For planers, wood species such as birch, maple are best suited. The workpiece should be 5 cm in width and length more than the final size of the planer. The width is determined by the blade, which is prepared in advance, plus it is necessary to leave 6-10 mm for processing on machines, plus about 20 mm for the “cheeks” (side dies). The final dimensions of the tool may vary, depending on the planned size of the planer.

It is necessary to mark the workpiece in such a way that the annual rings are perpendicular to the sole, and the wood fibers go down from the front to the back.

A chipbreaker and a blade will help you finally determine the size of the planer. You can, of course, rack your brains over the material that will fit the blade, but it is much easier to take this part in old planes or buy ready-made ones with fitted chipbreakers. We saw off two side strips 1.5-2 cm thick from the workpiece. The middle part is divided into two parts, between which the blade bed and the chipbreaker opening are formed. In this case, the middle section should be 3 mm wider than the blade. The bed under it should be at an angle of 45 °. Then the parts are assembled, glued together with wood glue. After it dries, the planer is adjusted.

The most difficult thing is to make a curly sole that will be an exact mirror image of the planed profile, as well as to make the right blade and fit it to the sole. It will take a lot of patience - it may not work right away. To get started, start making a blade, for this you will need to grind the desired grooves. On the blade itself, apply the desired pattern with a marker or pencil and start sharpening, observing the desired sharpening angle.

Making the sole of the desired profile will be even more difficult, for this a set of chisels, a lot of sandpaper and patience will come in handy. Take a wooden blank and draw a pattern from both ends, under which you will need to make recesses for the tree. On the sole itself, mark straight lines that will be the edges of the notches. With chisels, layer by layer, take out the wood, trying to make it as even as possible. When the profile is ready, sand it or sand it to remove the lint. After that, the sole is cut into two parts and attached to the main structure of the planer.

When gluing all parts, make sure to remove in a timely manner all adhesive residues that have come out after compressing the parts in a vice. When the assembly work is completed and you are satisfied with the quality of the assembly, cover the entire instrument with a thin layer of varnish. On the ends you need to apply after the first layer has dried, another one.

A little about the cornices - where to attach the finished product?

And here is your finished tool asking for work. Try to make a wooden cornice - in all ages, wood has been one of the most popular materials for this interior element. Wooden slats made of oak, walnut, pine, larch, cherry are suitable for work. You will also need several meters of stainless steel wire.

Select the rail for the eaves, taking into account the fact that there should be a margin on both sides, which you will then cut off. Making a cornice is quite simple - fix the rail on the table and remove the chips layer by layer until you get the desired pattern. Treat the surface with sandpaper, cut off the ends and also process them with a grinder. The most difficult thing will be to make the right decision about covering the surface of the eaves. Please note that this element should form a single composition with the rest of the furniture in the room. Perhaps the best option would be to cover the item with a clear coat of varnish, or several layers of stain, and then varnish. Alternatively, paint the cornice a color that matches the curtains.

The fasteners on which we will fix the bar can also be made independently from two identical flat steel strips. You need to bend them like the letter L - in total there should be two folds and three sides, two parallel and one perpendicular. On the perpendicular side, we drill several small holes in order to thread the wire. On parallel sides, we also drill two holes, making them no larger than the head of a screw or self-tapping screw. We fix the fasteners on a wooden profile and pass the wire between them. The wire must be pulled like a string so that it does not sag under the weight of the curtains. The cornice is ready, it remains only to attach it to the wall under the ceiling and hang the curtains!