Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.
One of the most inexpensive and sufficient effective ways thermal insulation is the insulation of walls with polystyrene from the outside. I often do this kind of work for my clients and have never been dissatisfied. The installation technology is so simple that you can do everything you need with your own hands, saving a certain amount of money.
In today's material, I, taking this opportunity, want to consider in detail the pros and cons of polystyrene as a heater, as well as describe the sequence of actions for warming a home using this material.
Polystyrene as insulation
The term "polystyrene" refers to a popular insulation - polystyrene foam, or, as it is more correctly called, polystyrene foam. It is obtained from the polymer mass by foaming it in a foaming agent. For this, a steam generator is used, under the influence of which polystyrene granules increase 50 times and are filled with air.
Material Features
As I already mentioned, polystyrene consists of a large number of closed cells filled with air. The latter has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and, being in a stationary state (in the absence of convection), just plays the role of an insulator that stores thermal energy in the room.
Depending on the brand of raw materials used, foaming technology and some other production features, polystyrene plates of various density and strength are obtained. Moreover, these parameters, as you understand, are inversely related. The denser the foam, the harder it is, but the worse it retains heat.
Insulation of the house with polystyrene can be carried out with plates of various strengths (depending on which structural elements are thermally insulated). In some cases, you can use (and I have done this more than once) low-strength foam, which is then protected from external influences with a decorative material or cement screed.
But there are times when this is not possible. For example, if you perform floor insulation with polystyrene, you should expect that the insulation will be subjected to increased dynamic load. Therefore, either you need to use a dense material, or mount it in a frame way (between pre-installed lags).
To figure out when and what kind of polystyrene foam should be used, I propose to consider the most important characteristics of the material that are important for the master performing the insulation.
Specifications
I placed the main parameters of polystyrene in the illustration below. Check them out, and then I will talk about them in more detail.
Now in more detail:
- Thermal conductivity.
One of the most important parameters, on which it directly depends on how effectively polystyrene will perform the tasks assigned to it for the thermal insulation of buildings.
For insulation, the most commonly used material is PSB-S-25, the density of which is 25 kg per cubic meter. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is 0.038 W/(m*K). To illustrate this number, I will give a diagram that indicates how thick the enclosing structures of various materials should be in order to reliably keep heat indoors.
- Soundproof and windproof. I'll start with the latter, no matter how fragile polystyrene foam is, it does not need additional wind protection. Therefore, it is often used as part of a hinged insulating facade system.
As for soundproofing, everything is not so simple. Foam cells have a closed structure, so they absorb sound waves very poorly. It is inefficient to use polystyrene as an independent soundproofing.
- Water absorption. Here again I return to the closed cell structure. Due to this, the material practically does not absorb water. In direct contact with liquid, the PSB-S-25 insulation board will absorb about 1% of water from its own volume.
Almost the same is the case with the diffusion of water vapor, that is, vapor permeability. The walls insulated with polystyrene foam will not “breathe”, therefore, a large amount of water vapor generated as a result of human activity will accumulate inside the premises.
In order for the microclimate inside the rooms to be comfortable, it is necessary to design powerful (preferably forced) ventilation.
- The effect of temperature. It all depends on the duration of exposure to the insulation. For example, expanded polystyrene can withstand heating up to 110 degrees Celsius, but for a very short time. Therefore, it can be covered with hot bituminous mastics.
But if long-term operation is expected at high temperatures, then the latter should not rise above 85 degrees Celsius. That is why the foam, when installed on the outer surfaces of the walls, protects decorative materials or cement screed.
As for negative temperatures, expanded polystyrene retains its integrity when cooled down to -180 degrees.
- natural factors. Expanded polystyrene does not tolerate prolonged exposure to X-ray and ultraviolet radiation. But if you are unlikely to encounter the first, then the second affects the insulation almost all year round in clear weather.
The sun's rays destroy the foam. Moreover, they heat the surface of the material to a high temperature, as a result of which it begins to release chemical compounds harmful to humans.
Therefore, open outdoor installation this heater. It must be protected with a cement screed or external cladding.
- Fire resistance. Polystyrene belongs to the flammability class G3 and G4. That is, it is very flammable material. Yes, you yourself could see this more than once if you watched TV reports about completely burned-out high-rise buildings insulated with polystyrene foam.
In addition to high combustibility, the material contributes to the further spread of the flame and, during a fire, releases combustion products hazardous to humans into the surrounding air.
Therefore, for private construction (insulation), it is necessary to use a heater, to which fire retardant is added during production. Such material is marked with the letter "C". The presence of a flame retardant does not mean that the foam will not burn, but in this case, the chemical will stop the spread of the flame, making it possible to evacuate or eliminate the source of ignition.
- Life time. I can say this briefly. If you choose the right material and follow the technology of its production, then the foam will last as long as the house itself, which is insulated with it.
Home insulation technology using polystyrene
I hope that the above is enough to decide on the possibility (or impossibility) of using polystyrene to insulate your own home. Now - step-by-step instruction, which will help you independently perform all the necessary actions.
I operate in the following way:
- Preparing surfaces for insulation. This is one of the important stages of work, which in no case should be neglected.
First you need to dismantle decorative trim outer wall surfaces. Especially if they are painted with airtight oil paint, which will help to accumulate moisture inside the insulation layer.
Also at this stage I repair the surface of the walls. I close cracks and cracks with mounting foam or mortar, I knock down potholes and architectural decorations with a perforator. If the wall has too significant differences in height, then I plaster it along the lighthouses.
As a result, I get a flat (perhaps imperfectly) wall, cleaned of all debris and primed with two layers of a penetrating primer. The latter is needed to improve the adhesive properties of the mineral surface to the foam adhesive used.
- I install ebbs and window sills, insulate slopes window openings. There are no special difficulties, except for some small nuances.
First, the ebb or window sill that is attached to the window frame must be so long that it protrudes beyond the insulation layer (it will be installed later). It turns out that the length of the window sill should be equal to the distance from the window to the wall border plus 10 cm (insulation) + 1 cm (glue) + 4 cm (overhang outside the wall).
Secondly, when insulating the slopes, you need to glue the foam sheets so that they protrude over the edge by a distance of 1 cm. Trust my experience, then it will be easier to join the main layer of insulation with the thermal insulation of the slopes. I forgot to say that for slopes you can use foam with a thickness of 2-3 cm.
- I glue the foam to the wall. I move on to this stage after I have finished with all the slopes without exception.
As a material, I use foam with a density of 25 kg per cubic meter with fire-fighting additives. It is marked PSB-S-25. In addition, you need a starting galvanized profile that will hold the first row of insulation during installation.
First, at the bottom of the wall (near the foundation), I fix the profile with screws and dowels. It must be installed strictly horizontally. If using several parts, leave a gap of 2 mm between them to compensate for thermal expansion.
Then I spread glue on the wall. I do it like this:
- first, using a wide spatula, I apply the solution to a surface area that corresponds in size to one sheet of insulation (usually a meter per meter);
- then, using a spatula with teeth, I evenly distribute the composition along the wall.
If the wall has drops, then you need to put the glue not in a continuous layer, but in “blots”. And not on the wall, but on the foam. This will allow, after mounting the polystyrene on the wall, to level the insulation sheet using a water level.
Be sure to see that there are gaps between the “blots” through which excess air will come out from under the plate. But the solution should be enough so that at least 40% of the sheet area is covered with it.
Having spread the glue, I lean the styrofoam slab tightly against the wall and level it with a level. The adjacent sheet is installed in the same way.
In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the gaps between them are as small as possible. And the upper rows are glued with offset seams. That is, the sheets of insulation will be located in you, as it were, in a checkerboard pattern.
After gluing the polystyrene to the wall, I stop working for 1-2 days to adhesive composition completely dry.
- I fix the insulation with the help of "fungi". We are talking about plastic dowels with a metal core and wide caps, with which the insulation layer is fixed to the wall.
First, using a puncher, right through the foam, I drill a hole with a diameter of 10 mm in the wall, where I then insert the “fungus”. Then I hammer a metal core into it, which firmly fixes the fittings in the recess. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the “fungus” hat is slightly recessed into the insulation layer.
On one sheet of insulation you need to use 6-7 fungi. In this case, the fastening should be 5-10 cm from the edge of the sheet.
Sometimes it happens that it is not possible to completely hammer the core. Nothing wrong with that. You can simply cut off the excess part with wire cutters, this will not affect the strength of the insulating layer in any way.
- I seal the joints between the sheets of insulation. For this, mounting foam is used. Choose a variety that is neutral to the Styrofoam you are using.
All joints should be foamed, especially if their thickness exceeds 2-3 mm. Very large gaps (more than a centimeter) I recommend first sealing with narrow strips of foam, and only then sealing with foam.
The sealing composition hardens within 5 hours. After that, all excess foam must be cut off with a clerical knife. I also recommend simultaneously correcting all the joints and irregularities of the insulating layer with a polystyrene grater.
It is important to take care of the mushroom caps. They need to be puttied with an adhesive solution that was used to mount the foam on the walls. After drying, these areas should also be sanded with a grater to get a smooth surface.
- I reinforce the corners with perforated mesh corners. If you didn’t have any at hand, I will tell you how you can reinforce the corners of the foam using a regular fiberglass reinforcing mesh for outdoor use.
So, I take a mesh with a density of 160 grams per square meter and cut from it strips 30 cm wide. The length will be equal to the height of the corners or window openings. Then I fold the mesh in half.
Then, using a spatula, I apply an adhesive solution 3 mm thick to the corner being processed at a distance of 7 cm from the corner in each direction. Then I put a reinforcing mesh on this glue and smooth it with a special device - a spatula bent at a right angle. This must be done until the mesh is immersed in glue.
- Glue reinforcing mesh. To do this, I apply a layer of a 3-mm layer of glue on the surface of the foam, into which I sink a fiberglass mesh.
After that, an additional layer of mortar is applied on top and leveled with a spatula until the reinforcing layer is completely hidden. As soon as the composition hardens, you can grout. It is done using a plastic grater, on which sandpaper is put on.
- I apply and rub a leveling layer. At this stage, I already use a large spatula and apply a thin layer of mortar, which is needed to even out small surface defects.
Grouting is carried out after drying according to the scheme described above.
- Ground mineral surface. To do this, I use a penetrating primer Ceresit. I apply the composition in two layers with intermediate drying.
Then it remains only to complete the finish. I personally prefer to plaster the facade with decorative plaster.
Summary
As you can see, polystyrene is a good insulation, but not without some drawbacks. However, they are fully offset by the fact that the price of this heat insulator is one of the lowest on the market. But if you are still interested in alternatives, you can check out the video in this article, which describes some of them.
And I would like to ask you if you have met with such a phenomenon as cracks on the facade - insulated with polystyrene or XPS - under cement screed? And if so, how did you get rid of these defects? Post your answers in the comments to the article.
September 2, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
How to work with expanded polystyrene when insulating the wall of a building from the inside, its main advantages and disadvantages, how to prepare a wall for thermal insulation, stages of work.
The content of the article:
Insulation of walls from the inside with expanded polystyrene is one of the simplest and at the same time reliable ways to preserve heat in residential and non-residential premises. Every year, the thermal insulation service increases in price, but for many categories of our fellow citizens it is still in demand. Among the huge variety of insulation materials on the market, expanded polystyrene does not lose its relevance, because each of us is well acquainted with it. We will analyze what other advantages it has, and also consider the features of its use for internal wall insulation.
Features of thermal insulation of walls from the inside with polystyrene foam
The main problem in conducting internal works can be called the phenomenon of increasing freezing of the insulated wall. This is due to the fact that the dew point, which acts as the center of condensate accumulation, shifts to the inner edge of the structure, and sometimes even comes to the surface. The spread of condensate leads to the destruction of not only the finishing layer, but also the wall itself. The result is high heat loss and high humidity in the room.
Traditional expanded polystyrene is produced by manufacturers in the form of even, smooth and dense sheets, the dimensions of which can be either 100 by 100 or 100 by 50 cm.
The installation of this material requires the utmost attention. But you still can't get rid of the problem of joints. The main solution should be the tightest possible fit, and the ends of adjacent sheets are coated with sealant for a better connection with each other.
The master applies a solution for fixing this material in a special way. Traditional cakes, which are suitable for outdoor work, are not suitable for internal thermal insulation. They will lead to the appearance of gaps in which condensate will subsequently accumulate. Therefore, when it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside with polystyrene foam, the adhesive mixture is applied to the entire sheet and its uniform distribution is achieved. This will ensure that it adheres securely to the wall surface.
In order to economically and correctly distribute the adhesive solution, we use a special needle-type paint roller. It seems to pierce the surface of the material, which gives more reliable connection. It is for this method of fastening that it is important to ideally prepare the working wall plane. Ordinary cement mortar is not very suitable for these purposes.
It is advisable to acquire mixtures that form a moisture-proof layer. The same applies to anchor fastenings - instead of them, T-shaped profiles should be preferred, which will be fixed not only to the floor, but also to the ceiling. This is necessary, especially in cases where mesh reinforcement will be applied over the insulation.
Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with polystyrene foam
Among the many advantages that wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam has, we will focus on the following:
- The cheapness of the material, which makes it available to a wide range of users.
- According to its characteristics, it is not inferior to expensive and fashionable heaters.
- Polyfoam has excellent thermal insulation properties.
- Very simple and accessible in terms of installation.
- The material is lightweight.
- It is easy to dock during insulation, simply removing the excess with a knife.
- Characterized by durability.
- Maintains a comfortable temperature.
Among the negative qualities of such a heater, experts note the following:
- Expanded polystyrene can be called, without exaggeration, a rather fragile material.
- When warming, they need to provide additional ventilation in the room.
- The material should be protected from direct sunlight, the action of which leads to its scattering.
- Refers to combustible materials and, in addition, releases toxic substances when ignited.
One of the dangers is the appearance of fungal mold on the walls of rooms insulated with foam. It serves as a source of allergic manifestations. This happens because the dew point shifts to the middle of the wall, and dampness and humidity come into the house behind it.
Styrofoam fire releases dangerous and toxic gas. Despite the fact that the material does not burn, it begins to melt under the influence of high temperature. In this case, not only suffocating black smoke enters the air, but also a gas called phosphene, which causes paralysis of the respiratory tract.
The technology of internal insulation of walls with expanded polystyrene
After you have chosen the technology for attaching polystyrene foam and calculated all the costs, you can begin insulation work. It is necessary to observe a number of nuances that can affect the quality of the finished coating. Experts do not recommend saving on materials or skipping individual work from the technological chain.
Preparatory work before insulation from the inside of the walls
First of all, the wall to be insulated must be leveled. Even an unskilled builder understands that on an uneven surface one should not expect high-quality fastening of the insulator and all subsequent layers. Ultimately, this will lead to heat loss and inefficient spending.
If we are talking about a newly built building, then the wall should be plastered first. After that, it is treated with primer paint and any irregularities are repaired with putty. In other cases, the same actions will be required, only without the mandatory application of a plaster solution.
It's a different story when it comes to renovations. Until the moment you insulate the walls from the inside with polystyrene foam with your own hands, be sure to remove the old paint or wallpaper. After that, each wall is carefully diagnosed for the detection of recesses, cracks or chips in the concrete.
Any defects are eliminated with plaster mortar or store putty. In some cases, you can resort to mounting foam. After that, the surface is carefully leveled. As soon as the working wall is completely flat, it is again treated with ground paint.
However, before laying the foam sheets, we still need to take care of waterproofing. The explanation is simple: in any case, when low temperatures air outside the building, moisture will pass through the wall and get on the insulation, under its influence the polystyrene foam loses its characteristics, and over time it simply begins to rot. The waterproofing material will just serve as protection against moisture.
After the waterproofing is installed, proceed to the installation of insulation. If in former times its sheets were fastened necessarily using screws and dowels, then modern industry has simplified this process. There are special adhesive solutions that greatly facilitate installation work.
Thus, the main requirements that must be met before the start of thermal insulation:
- The surface should be as flat and dry as possible.
- The wall must be separated from the heat-insulating layer by waterproofing and vapor barrier.
- The insulation itself should not have slots, joints or any gaps.
- It must have the maximum moisture resistance.
Instructions for mounting polystyrene foam on the walls
You should start with the calculations of the necessary material. The value of the height of the walls is taken and multiplied by the width. From the value obtained, it is necessary to subtract window and door openings, but add a small tolerance due to slopes. As for the type of insulator, it is not at all necessary to chase the thickest foam. It will be enough to make a choice in favor of the 10-centimeter PSB-S-25.
As for the glue, it is worth giving preference to a special one that is designed for such materials. Although it costs more, it will be able to provide the necessary result, namely, a heat insulator securely fixed on the wall. To carry out work on the reinforcement of polystyrene foam, you will need a separate type of glue, so you will also have to worry about this in advance.
From other materials and devices, we need special umbrella dowels, which provide additional fastening to the wall. By the number of them, you need to take about 5 pieces for each attached sheet. The length of the fastener should be 2 times thicker than the thickness of the sheet itself. To carry out the reinforcement of glued polystyrene foam, you need to stock up on a mesh with cells of 5 by 5 cm. Corners and slopes will be glued with special paint corners.
If such a cycle of work will be carried out for the first time, then it is better to take care of a small excess of materials. This will insure against the need for repeated trips to the store.
Warming internal walls do-it-yourself polystyrene foam is carried out in the following order:
- Is taken new leaf material, on which a layer of glue about 10 mm thick is applied. The composition must be distributed evenly over the entire area.
- It is necessary to glue products to the wall in a checkerboard pattern, like laying bricks. The size of the gaps should be minimal.
- After gluing, we will fasten the sheets with dowels-umbrellas. They are driven into each corner of the slab, and one is attached in the very center. This can be done immediately for each glued product or in total for all. In this way, it is possible to achieve a tight fixation of the heat insulator.
- Now you can proceed to the reinforcement stage. There is another rule here: in order for the mesh to hold well, it must be filled with a thick layer of glue. Before gluing, you can slightly moisten the wall by spraying it. For reinforcement, you should buy a mesh with a certain density index, not less than 140 g / m 2.
- After you fix the mesh to the foam, it is smoothed over its entire area. At all corners of the product are attached with the same glue protective corners.
Final finishing of the wall insulated with polystyrene foam
Giving final appearance insulated wall - the last stage of the work. This process can be attributed to the longest and most laborious in the entire algorithm. Since a single layer of plastering is not enough, work can be carried over to the next day. The last layer must be made as neat and even as possible, since with its help we create a base for high-quality wall decoration.
After the leveling layer dries, it is cleaned with sandpaper in order to eliminate all irregularities. The wall is covered with primer paint, which is able to provide perfect adhesion between the heat insulator and the finish coat.
Plastering work on an insulated wall should begin with the choice of a mixture that is designed to cover polystyrene foam materials. Among the most famous products are Ceresit, Worth, Ecomix. They are a universal mass that forms a protective layer on the insulation. The mixture is used not only for leveling the wall, but also for gluing the grid. The material consumption will be approximately as follows: 4 kg per 1 m 2 for the mesh and 6 kg for the protective final layer.
The use of a mesh is necessary so that the leveling mass can adhere to the surface of the expanded polystyrene. The denser the product, the stronger the whole structure will turn out, but it will be more difficult to paste over the corners with it. For gluing corners, we cut a strip of mesh with a length equal to the length slope, and a width of 30 cm. The universal mass is smeared with a spatula on the corner, after which a piece of mesh is applied and carefully ironed.
To install the mesh, it is cut into pieces of about 1 meter. The mass is applied to the work surface, the product is applied to it and smoothed from top to bottom, as well as in the direction from the center of the wall. In the process of smoothing on a spatula, you need to take a little mixture to completely close the structure. This is how each vertical strip is glued, and the joints are made according to the “overlap” principle, so that each one partially enters the neighboring one.
After the mesh dries, it is grouted. To do this, you need a plastic grater, on which a piece of emery cloth is fixed. It is necessary to overwrite counterclockwise, with careful circular movements.
It remains to fix the leveling layer, for which we will use the same universal mixture. The mass is thrown onto the wall with a spatula, while its thickness should be approximately 3 mm. The dried finish layer is subject to grouting, in the same way as in the case of the mesh.
Its grouting should be done no earlier than one day, but no later than four days after application. It is at this stage that the surface becomes as smooth and even as possible. Now it can be painted with colored primer paint, based on the preferences of the customer.
How to insulate walls from the inside with polystyrene foam - look at the video:
Modern heaters can be divided into two types: organic and inorganic. The first type includes polystyrene and expanded polystyrene, the second - various kinds of wool (glass wool, stone wool ...)
From the point of view of the prevalence and availability on the market of thermal insulation materials (TIM), the most affordable are polystyrene foam insulation based on foamed polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam.
I consider it superfluous to provide reference information of an alphanumeric nature. Data including the thermal conductivity of insulation, the density of polystyrene foam, etc. can be found on the net or read on the packaging before purchase. By and large, modern heaters of the vast majority of manufacturers are approximately the same in terms of characteristics, and with practical application their differences will be insignificant.
In this article, I will try to focus on the features and properties of materials that really (under certain circumstances) can significantly affect the quality of the work performed. By the way, illiterate insulation with polystyrene can be very expensive. And it’s not even so much about the danger to the building as about the harm to the residents of the house themselves.
In the process of performing thermal insulation work, I used both types of insulation (foam and polystyrene sheets).
Before talking about the features of these heaters, let's briefly consider examples of the possible use of polystyrene foam heaters in the private residential sector. Since it is almost impossible to describe all possible examples within the framework of one article, in some cases I will give a link to my previous articles, where the use of a particular material is shown in more detail.
Example of water pipe insulation
Along the entire length of the trench, we lay the PE film overlapping at the joints. On the film we lay cut sheets of PSB-15 foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm (the numbers in the marking indicate the density of the expanded polystyrene and foam plastic). Next, we lay a PE pipe, previously insulated with pipe thermal insulation, on the sides of which we lay cut (narrower) foam sheets, also 50 mm thick. From above (along the foam and pipe) we lay another piece of foam and close the entire structure from above with a PE film. Due to gravity, after backfilling with soil, a sealed vapor-water-tight structure is formed. We make the first layer of backfill (15 - 20 cm) with loose soil, without stones and debris.
An example of the use of polystyrene foam when installing plastic windows
In this case, the use of foam was due to the following considerations:
Put plastic windows in openings brick wall, which, compared with wooden walls (in the house itself), are colder. Therefore, thermal breaks around the perimeter of the window at the points of interface with the wall create more comfortable conditions for the operation of the window (reduce the likelihood of fogging, freezing)
The next reason for the use is that the window openings in the extension were made without quarters. In this case, the probability of freezing (and blowing) at the junction is very high. Therefore, I used the foam plastic for the device of false quarters in the window opening. Which is exactly what is shown in the photo below.
Note. Naturally, the foam must be subsequently plastered, and the profile of the window itself (mechanically) must be fastened to the supporting structure of the wall. Mounting foam used in the usual (standard) way.
An example of the use of expanded polystyrene in the construction of a heated area in front of the garage
The insulation was used not as thermal insulation in the traditional sense, but as a thermal protective layer. The purpose of this layer is to keep the heat from the electrical heating cables from escaping into the ground. This ensures not only the efficiency of the snowmelt system, but also the economy of energy consumption.
An example of warming the blind area around the perimeter of the house
Since there is a separate article on this topic, where everything is described in detail, I will note the following. Firstly, I used a non-standard design of a warm blind area. This is my personal know-how. Operating experience has fully confirmed its effectiveness. At least, I am convinced that all other thermal insulation work around the house would not have given such an effect in the absence of insulation of the base of the perimeter of the house.
You can see the features of the performance of these works in the article.
An example of the use of foam plastic as a fixed formwork in the manufacture of a foundation
An example of performing these works is described in my article.
Since these were my first works related to the use of foam for building insulation, I must write the following in addition to the article.
It is more preferable, in this case, to use a heater based on extruded polystyrene foam. First, it is more durable mechanical characteristics(ease of use), less prone to negative impact moisture (reliability and service life). Secondly, when arranging formwork in one layer (in the case of using sheets of extruded polystyrene foam with a selected quarter along the perimeter of the sheet), it allows you to completely eliminate cold bridges at the joints of insulation sheets.
An example of warming the basement of a house
The features of the work performed by me during the insulation of the basement of the house are due to the following circumstances.
First, the house (purchased on the secondary housing market) was a ready-made structure. Therefore, the classical (and most correct) approach - the installation of insulation during the construction of the structure - is no longer relevant. We had to adapt and take into account the peculiarities of the design of individual parts of a real-life house.
Secondly, in view of the foregoing, the insulation of the basement of the house is done both from the outside (external insulation) and from the inside of the house. Features of the work performed are shown in the photo below.
External insulation of the basement of the house
Insulation of the basement of the house from the inside
An example of floor insulation on the ground
The photo shows a fragment of the work of floor insulation on the ground inside a residential building. In fact, I also used this method of insulation when insulating the floor in the boiler room, in the hallway, in the cellar. In more detail, the implementation of these works by me is described earlier in the article.
An example of using insulation inside a wall structure
The photo below shows a fragment of the implementation of thermal insulation work during the construction of non-residential premises.
After the publication of the article, during its discussion, different points of view were expressed on the use this method insulation. Now, after six years of using this premises, I can only confirm that in terms of "efficiency - price" I had no other alternatives. Moreover, structurally this room is almost closely adjacent to the house. It is almost impossible to make external insulation of the room along the wall adjacent to the house. If I had left one wall without any insulation, the temperature in the boiler room would have been noticeably lower. Now, depending on the frost, the temperature is stable around (10-15) degrees in the absence of heaters in the boiler room and hallways.
Since my house is wooden, I am not talking about the main method of using foam plastic as an external facade insulation. Moreover, there are many publications on this topic. I will only highlight a few of the most important points.
- Firstly, despite the higher performance of extruded polystyrene compared to foamed polystyrene (in terms of thermal insulation, mechanical properties, etc.), extruded polystyrene cannot be used when insulating the facade of a brick building. This is explained by the fact that it has such indicators of vapor permeability that it is practically possible to pick up wall material with appropriate vapor permeability in private construction is almost unrealistic.
- For external facade insulation of a brick structure, only foamed foam is suitable. It is recommended to use foam specifically designed for this, such as PSB-S-25F (facade). Although, as practice shows, the usual one is quite suitable. Do not use foam with a lower density (such as PSB-15).
- Another important point that really takes place in practice when insulating the facade of a house with foam plastic is the use of foam plastic in one layer, usually 50 mm thick. For most regions of the Russian Federation, from the point of view of the effectiveness of insulation, such a layer of thermal insulation is clearly not enough. In addition, when insulating with foam plastic in one layer, the number of non-closed joints during the installation of PSB sheets along the entire facade of the house will be quite large, which will further reduce the quality of thermal insulation work due to the formation of cold bridges. Those. foam must be insulated in two layers in a checkerboard pattern (with overlapping joints).
Some Conclusions
Despite the abundance of examples of the possible use of polystyrene foam heaters when performing thermal insulation work in your home, there are conditions under which it is either absolutely impossible, or not optimal, or simply impossible to use polystyrene foam heaters. Let's consider them briefly.
It is very dangerous to use polystyrene foam insulation inside residential premises. The fact that they are fire hazardous is not so important, because everything burns in fire. But the formation of smoke with the release toxic substances, for example, with a small local fire (at night, when the residents are sleeping), it may well turn out that the house will not suffer much, but the residents may not wake up. Therefore, it is better to refuse the use of polystyrene inside the house, or take very serious measures to protect it. For example, I used cotton wool insulation as thermal insulation inside a residential building. The photo below shows a fragment of the work on the thermal insulation of a wooden floor.
When arranging internal frame partitions in the house, I also used cotton wool insulation for internal filling of the structure. True, the purpose of the application in this case is not so much thermal insulation as sound insulation. A fragment of the work is shown below.
An attentive reader may ask why I used polystyrene inside a residential building when insulating the floor and basement. Yes, I did. But after performing thermal insulation work using foam plastic inside the house, the thermal insulation layer was covered with a brick wall, plastered, and artificial stone was glued on the plaster. The floors on top of the foam were concreted. Thus, we can say that the foam was inside a non-combustible structure. The photo below shows a fragment of the work.
It is practically impractical to use polystyrene foam when insulating wooden structures. First, and this main reason, due to the different vapor permeability of foam and wood, there is a high probability of moisture forming at the junction of materials. This can provoke mold, fungus on the tree. Secondly, polystyrene, unlike mineral wool insulation, is a rather elastic and poorly deformable material. Therefore, it can only be used on a fairly flat surface. Otherwise, with a loose fit, air voids will form, which will affect the quality of thermal insulation work. Therefore, when warming your wooden house using the ventilation facade system, I also used cotton wool insulation, which is shown in the photo below.
Thus, the most optimal, efficient and correct use of polystyrene foam insulation is the building structures of buildings located in the ground, or below the ground (foundations, basements, blind areas, the basement of buildings), as well as the insulation of the facades of stone (brick) buildings, but only with the use of foamed foam.
Facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam is one of the modern ways to increase the energy efficiency of a house, improve the microclimate in it and, as a result, save costs on resource consumption. On the market of this kind of heaters are represented, including domestic brands that are popular with consumers (for example, Penoplex and Technoplex).
Insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam is a modern way to increase the energy efficiency of the house
Advantages and disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam
The material obtained by extrusion has a higher density than its related foam. This quality allows the use of expanded polystyrene for finishing the walls of buildings from the outside. Extruded boards have slightly worse thermal insulation characteristics than expanded polystyrene panels, however, they are much better resistant to mechanical stress, atmospheric factors and aggressive environments. It should be added that the coefficient of thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is more than 10 times lower than that of a brick and 3 times less than that of wood.
Subject to the insulation technology, expanded polystyrene has no drawbacks
- Dense expanded polystyrene does not pass water. The building material is easy to process and is easy to install, so you can do the facade insulation with polystyrene foam yourself. Purchase of plates and Supplies does not require significant financial resources.
- Extruded polystyrene is significantly better than foam plastic in terms of fire resistance. As for the safety of building materials for the health of the inhabitants of the house, it does not pose any threat, since the plates are located on the outer walls. To protect the insulation from damage and to minimize the evaporation of styrene (which, to a greater or lesser extent, allocates foam of any kind), the treated walls are covered with a layer of cladding.
Some homeowners make the mistake of insulating the walls of the house with Styrofoam not from the outside, but from the inside. One can understand the reasons for such a decision, but it should be noted that such thermal insulation will not fulfill its tasks. It will not protect the facade from freezing. The consequence of this will be the formation of mold between the wall and the insulation and the destruction of the supporting structures of the building.
The internal insulation will worsen the vapor permeability of the partitions, so the humidity level in the rooms will be increased. In addition, it can pose a danger to residents by releasing harmful substances in the room. If a fire occurs, the toxic smoke from the Styrofoam will cause at least severe poisoning.
In favor of the use of heaters from the outside, another circumstance testifies: with this method, the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises remains unchanged.
Conditions for high-quality insulation of facades
In the insulation of facades with polystyrene foam, the technology for performing work must be followed. Although the operation itself is not overly complicated, the shortcomings made in the installation of panels can nullify efforts to minimize heat loss through the walls. Properly not fixed plates threaten with such troubles as delamination (a loose panel can be torn off by the wind), moisture getting under the insulation, fungus formation, etc. After a short time, the supporting structures of the building will need to be repaired.
In order to insulate the building with high quality, it is necessary to follow the phased installation
To ensure a quality result, it is necessary not only to strictly follow the instructions for performing the work, but also to follow the recommendations for the use of materials and the choice of fixtures.
The following must be taken into account:
- Insulation of the house with expanded polystyrene should be carried out only in the warm season, however, it is undesirable to choose hot days for its installation. It is optimal to work at temperatures from +15 °C to +25 °C.
- Do not install thermal insulation in rainy weather or during periods when the humidity level exceeds 80%.
- Styrofoam glued, but not protected by a coating, must be protected from sunlight and water ingress. The wall for the duration of long breaks can be hung with a cloth, for example, polyethylene.
Necessary materials and tools for work
Before you insulate the facade of the house with your own hands, you need to prepare:
- Expanded polystyrene panels with a density of at least 25 kg/m³. Slopes can be lined with sheets 2–3 cm thick. As a rule, 5 cm slabs are used for wall decoration (in the southern regions, facades are sometimes insulated with sheets 3 cm thick).
- Plinth profile and strips to protect the corners of the building.
- Fasteners. Thermal insulation is fixed with dish-shaped dowel-nails.
- Mounting foam and glue.
- Reinforcing mesh, primer, putty or plaster mixture.
- Finishing paint.
Before proceeding with the installation, you need to stock up necessary materials and tools
You will need the following tools:
- screwdriver and drill;
- brush or roller;
- building level and plumb;
- spatulas;
- a hammer;
- sandpaper with a bar.
At the preparatory stage, you may need a chisel and a grinder, a hacksaw, etc.
Preparing the facade for insulation
Before the facades are insulated with polystyrene foam, all protruding elements are removed from the surface to be finished. Gutters are removed from it, from window and doorways- platbands, ebbs, etc. The wall must be cleaned of dust, dirt, old paint, loose plaster and peeling fragments. All this will interfere with reliable contact of polystyrene with the surface. In addition, the wall must be even so that the insulation boards fit snugly against it. In the voids remaining under the polystyrene foam, condensate will accumulate, and the bumps will prevent the sheets from being securely fixed.
Before insulation, it is necessary to achieve the plane of the building
Nevertheless, it is not necessary to achieve the ideal plane of the facade: it is enough to cut down significant protrusions from it and close up deep depressions with plaster mortar. Small irregularities are not a problem, since deviations from the plane are leveled with glue. In addition, the edge of the plate in contact with the wall at the place of the protrusion can be processed with an abrasive tool.
The condition for high-quality surface preparation for insulation is its thorough repair. Cracks in the wall, seams brickwork etc., plastered. Before sealing, the edges of the cracks must be cut so that the mortar does not cover them, but gets inside. It is better to clean the seams to a depth of at least 1-2 cm.
Before plastering, the edges are primed with a deep penetration compound. It will strengthen them and improve the adhesive properties of the surface. For the same purpose, the entire plane of the facade to be insulated is treated with a primer. However, before priming, it is desirable to impregnate the wall with an antiseptic that will protect it from fungus.
Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam also need a little refinement. Thermal insulation will not fix securely if its contact side is too smooth (this is different, for example, "Penoplex"). You can turn it into a more porous one by making small notches on the edge with a construction knife, piercing it with a needle roller or rubbing it with sandpaper.
Installation of thermal insulation
Building insulation starts from the starting profile
- Insulation of facades with extruded polystyrene foam begins with the installation of a base (starting) profile. The bar will hold the fixed sheets of the heat insulator in the desired position, preventing them from sliding until the glue hardens. The profile is set by checking its horizontal level. To fix the strap, use self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are placed in such a step to prevent the profile from bending under the weight of the heat insulator.
- Before gluing polystyrene with thin plates, the slopes of door and window openings are trimmed. The width of the sheets should be 1 cm more distance from the outer edge of the wall to the window or door frame. Protruding beyond the plane outer wall panels will allow for better docking of heaters.
- The composition for fixing thermal insulation should be prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions in such a volume as to prevent its premature solidification. The mass is made in advance. The walls are covered with a continuous layer of glue. The solution is applied pointwise to the expanded polystyrene, along the edges and in the central part.
- The first row of plates is fixed along the starting profile. The panels are joined tightly to each other so that there are no gaps. If this happens, the gaps can be filled with mounting foam or foam softened with acetone. Wide gaps are sealed with polystyrene foam scraps and glue.
- The panels of the next row of insulation are installed, shifting by half the length relative to the plates of the first. In the same way, the rest of the thermal insulation belts are mounted. The correct installation of polystyrene foam is checked by a level.
- 3 days after gluing, the sheets are additionally fixed with dish-shaped dowel-nails. Each plate is fixed at 5 points. The fasteners must sink into the wall by at least 5 cm. Before driving in the dowels, 10 mm through holes are drilled in the panels. After installing the caps, the fasteners are coated with glue.
Sometimes thermal insulation is mounted on the wall in 2 layers. In such cases, the horizontal and vertical seams of the coverings must not coincide with each other. The second layer is glued after the first is completely fixed. Then put plate fasteners.
Preparing the wall for finishing
Finishing begins after the reinforcement of the insulation
Finishing the facade can be started only after the reinforcement of the insulation. The mesh attached to it will prevent cracking of the decorative coating. In addition, it will make the design more monolithic. A material with a surface density of 150 g / m² is glued to the wall.
- For reinforcing slopes, you can use a less durable mesh. It is applied to the wall after applying the adhesive. The mesh strips are overlapped. The width of the material tape should exceed the width of the surface treated with glue by 8-10 cm, which will avoid the appearance of irregularities when gluing adjacent edges.
- The mesh is pressed into the adhesive with a rubber spatula. It is smoothed from the center to the edges. Then the adhesive is applied to the next section of the facade, including the strip under the edge of the fixed material, etc. At the end of the reinforcement, the dried surface is rubbed with sandpaper.
- The wall is again leveled with a putty mixture. After it has hardened and grouted with an abrasive tool, a primer is applied. The finishing of the facade is completed by plastering or painting.
External insulation is more beneficial, since it does not lose the internal living area, which is reduced by the thickness of the slab of insulating material. In cases where it is not possible (the facade must save its “face”), the insulating material is fixed from the inside. If the walls are hollow, then laying is carried out using the gap between them.
The owners of the dwelling (whether it is or an apartment in a high-rise building) usually sheathe the walls with expanded polystyrene plates. By the way, polystyrene foam and polystyrene are brothers. This polymer is currently the most popular material. Although it was invented a long time ago, it has become the most popular in the last twenty years. The reason is that the technology of wall insulation with polystyrene is quite simple and economical.
Advantages and disadvantages of expanded polystyrene
Materials are used to insulate walls. Among them are mineral and basalt wool, heat-insulating wallpaper and other options. In favor of expanded polystyrene, its qualities such as:
- Low heat and noise conductivity;
- Lack of hygroscopicity;
- Good vapor permeability and frost resistance;
- High crease resistance, which means durability;
- Does not rot;
- Convenient in work – very low weight of plates;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Low price.
The list can be continued again and again, because there are plenty of positive aspects of polystyrene foam, despite the fact that they are negative about it.
With a large number of positive characteristics, polystyrene cannot be called ideal, because it:
- flammable material;
- When ignited, toxic substances are released;
- Spoiled by rodents.
How are walls insulated with polystyrene foam
How is the outside of the Styrofoam done correctly? These works have several mandatory milestones, on the observance of the rules of which the final result depends.
The basic work is done first. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls from paint or other coatings, remove dirt, and level the surface. You should not pay attention to small errors, and large chips, potholes or bumps should be eliminated. Then the entire area is primed with any composition that penetrates well deep into. After waiting for it to dry, the starting profile is fixed along the lower perimeter, and perforated aluminum corners are fixed in the corners.
Plates are installed from the bottom up. In each subsequent row, the sheets must be shifted using the same principle as when laying bricks. Window and door openings act as a starting point. First, each plate is fixed with a special adhesive solution.
Obtaining a homogeneous jelly-like consistency is achieved by dilution with water. Plates when insulation is being carried out brick house outside, it is recommended to cover with glue not completely, but only in the form of separate islands.
When joining the plates, gaps are formed. If they exceed 1 cm, then they can be eliminated either using polyurethane foam, or by laying the scraps of the slabs themselves. Subsequently, these places are leveled by stripping and grinding.
Then, without fail, plate-shaped dowels are additionally clogged. Holes for them are made with a drill. There must be at least five dowels on each plate, otherwise the structure will not hold. The length of the dowels is selected taking into account the thickness of the expanded polystyrene used. In order for the nail to hold well, it must, after passing through the layer of the slab, enter the wall by 4-5 cm. It is necessary to take into account such a moment. If the lining is carried out with plates in two layers, then it is very important that when drilling holes for the dowels, do not get on the nail from the lower layer.
The last stage remains - plastering and decoration. With the help of a superimposed layer of plaster, the resulting surface is leveled. Used as decoration various options. This can be lining, chipboard, MDF, painting, mosaic, decorated plaster, stone cladding, etc.
- All work when using polystyrene foam must be carried out in dry weather.
- Monitor the temperature outside. All work at t + 5 0 C and below is not carried out.
- Be sure to wait for the previous layer to dry before applying the next one.
- Plates must be impregnated with an anti-foam - a substance that reduces the likelihood of fire.
- Purchase all materials from the same manufacturer so that they fit together better.
We advise you to read
Healthy eating scenario "Vitamins visiting children
How to quickly and easily wake up in the morning - easy and effective tips
Psychological characteristics of children in adolescence
Transferring a child to another school - the procedure and necessary documents Whether to transfer a child to another school
