A couple of decades ago, all partitions and piers were built with their own hands from blocks or bricks. These materials were subsequently successfully replaced by drywall, which retains its popularity to this day. There are many reasons for this. The ability of drywall to acquire any shape and the variety of profiles of its frame make it possible to translate into reality the most daring ideas of designers. A simple installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands is available even to a beginner in the construction business.

Due to its porous structure, the material easily passes steam, regulating the level of humidity in the room. GKL impregnation with a special compound makes it possible to use drywall in a humid environment such as a bathroom or kitchen. Drywall, which includes natural ingredients, is completely harmless to health.

The light weight of GKL partitions has little effect on the bearing capacity of the main elements of the building, which is very important when repairing old wooden buildings. And in the construction of modern buildings, the use of gypsum board structures reduces the cost of concrete and reinforcement by up to 30%.

The thickness of the partitions during their installation and a reliable opening is determined by the profile width of 100.75 or 50 mm. Its choice depends on the purpose of the partition. A narrow profile can save usable space, while a wide profile can withstand a significant load.

Material calculation

The design of the future partition is a metal frame sheathed with plasterboard, in which there is a doorway. The framework consists of guides and rack profiles. Guide profiles PN 50/40 are mounted along the perimeter of the vertical contour of the room, and rack profiles PS - inside the contour with a step of 600 mm, they also form a doorway. For cladding, wall drywall t.12.5mm with sheet dimensions of 2500x1200mm is used.

In order to correctly calculate the amount of these materials, it is necessary to draw on paper a diagram of the future partition indicating the height, length or width of the room, the location and dimensions of the doorway, as well as the placement of rack profiles. In addition, cutting sheets of drywall should be applied to the frame drawing, which should be staggered with fastening joints on the horizontal lintels of the frame.

When calculating, it is important to determine the future load on the partition from the weight of furniture or decor items. It determines the location and number of rack profiles, as well as additional jumpers required at the attachment points of accessories or forming a doorway.

Before you make a drywall partition, an approximate calculation of the amount of materials can be performed using any of the numerous calculators posted on specialized websites. construction companies. The doorway is not taken into account.

Frame installation

In order to build a metal frame of a partition with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a plumb line, a screwdriver, a tape measure, metal scissors, a puncher, a drill, a hammer, a paint cord, a building level and a marker. The plasterboard interior partition with a door is made in stages in the following order:

Sheathing the partition frame with drywall

After mounting the frame, it needs to be sheathed with plasterboard sheets. Do-it-yourself work should start from the wall by attaching solid sheets, observing the following rules:

• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the sheet at a distance of 10-15mm from its edge with a fastening step of 100-150mm.
• Adjacent sheets must have a joint on a common profile.
• Fastener caps should be recessed into the GKL by 0.5 mm.
• With a single-layer sheathing of the frame, the length of the self-tapping screws is taken at least 25 mm, and with a two-layer sheathing - 40 mm. An important indicator in this case is the penetration of fasteners into the profile to a depth of at least 10 mm.

After sheathing the frame on one side, it is recommended to lay a soundproof material in it, which can be used as mineral wool in the form of slabs or rolls. The insulator must be laid between the rack profiles, avoiding gaps.

After laying the insulation, you can sheathe the frame on the other side according to the rules described above. Sheets are recommended to be fastened to the frame profiles with a vertical offset for the correct distribution of loads arising during the operation of the partition.

Partition finish

Finishing the finished plasterboard partition is performed in this order:

Instead of a traditional door, a sliding door can be installed in the partition. In this case, the size of the opening will be smaller than the door leaf. Such an opening is equipped with a floor controller, a hanging rail and has an additional metal frame necessary to mask the movement mechanism.

If necessary, engineering communications can be placed in a plasterboard partition: electrical wiring, pipes, and others. Such work is planned in advance and carried out at the stage of creating the frame.

That's all science. We hope that now you know how to make a drywall partition and a doorway with your own hands. A little patience and accuracy in work - and you will succeed. Good luck to all!

A plasterboard partition with a door is found in almost all modern houses and apartments that have undergone independent redevelopment. Making such a design yourself is quite simple if you know the features of working with the material and the rules for its installation.

Drywall - a quick and inexpensive way to make an interior partition

Features of plasterboard partitions

Drywall is one of the most commonly used materials in modern construction. It is used both for surface finishing and for the construction of completely new structures. It is the do-it-yourself interior plasterboard partitions that are the most striking example.

The popularity of the material is due to the presence of many advantages:

• Ease. The plates are light in weight, which reduces the load on the structure of the house itself.
• Availability. The cost of drywall sheets and auxiliary materials is relatively low.
• Ease of processing. Cutting material is very easy. It is also possible to create bends.
• Mounting. Sheets are fastened quickly and without much effort.
• Versatility. Drywall is suitable for any type of partitions, and its further finishing can be very diverse.
• Environmental friendliness. Gypsum filler and cardboard shell are completely natural materials and do not emit harmful substances.

It is also worth noting that for work can be used different kinds sheets: in addition to simple drywall, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and insulated in the form of sandwich panels are also produced.

Ease and ease of installation - the main advantages of drywall partitions

Particular attention should be paid to the question of how to make a plasterboard partition with an opening under the door. Here it is important to take into account the features of load distribution and some other nuances.

Frame device

The construction of any structure of such a plan begins with the calculation of the supports and the installation of the frame. In order to make a plasterboard partition with a door with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• Aluminum. The main skeleton of the future partition is created from metal profiles. For this, two types of parts are used: guides and rack-mounts. They are also distinguished by their markings. Separately, it is worth highlighting the arched profiles and connectors.
• Wood. Wooden beams are needed to strengthen the doorway. They are installed around the perimeter and connected to metal racks.

Design features of the aluminum profile frame device

There are no special difficulties in installing the frame with your own hands. To begin with, the guide racks are fixed on the floor and ceiling. It is also recommended to fix the guide on the adjacent wall. For shock absorption and insulation, a rubber seal is placed under the bottom of the profile. Then, at a distance of 25-40 cm, vertical racks are installed. Beams are mounted in the opening, and a crossbar is fixed above the opening itself and the crate is carried out according to the general principle.

Scheme of installation of profiles for the device of a doorway in a plasterboard partition

Installation of drywall sheets

At this stage appearance the interior partition of drywall acquires clearer contours. The pre-installed frame is sheathed with sheets using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

In order for the structure to be durable, it is important to correctly cut the trim sections. It is most convenient to do this with a jigsaw. First you need to measure the distance between the racks and the width of the drywall. When installing the edges of the fragment should fall strictly on the middle of the profile, sagging is not allowed. If there is a need to adjust the dimensions, mark the cut line with a pencil and remove the excess. It is recommended to wipe the ends and make a slight slope along the edges for the convenience of further finishing.

You need to screw the sheets with an offset so that the joints do not go in one row. This will give the structure more strength. Self-tapping screws are placed at an average distance of 15-20 cm from each other. In order to make it easier to disguise them in the future, it is important to deepen the hats into the material.

Depending on the weight of the door, additional reinforcement of the opening may be required.

If it is planned to bring out a curved vault above the opening, the front sheets are cut along the frame installation line. To finish the inner surface, you need to give the drywall the desired shape. To do this with your own hands on a sheet, you need to make cuts on the cardboard and wet the material a little. When it becomes more pliable, bend it to the desired shape and secure it in the opening.

After completing the sheathing, use a drill and crown to make holes for sockets and switches and bring all the wires out.

Features of insulation

Since the interior partitions made of plasterboard sheets are hollow inside, they can be insulated with your own hands using modern materials. Rolled varieties, for example, ecowool, are best suited. You can also use sheet insulation. Isolon, polystyrene, polystyrene and polyurethane foam are especially popular today.

To do the insulation with your own hands, you need to fill the space between the profiles after plasterboarding one side. After that, you can sheathe the second side. If you plan to hide communications in the wall or have a sliding door, you should leave the corresponding space without insulation.

To insulate a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to fill the space between the profiles with heat-insulating material

Further finishing

The work does not end there, you still need to finish the doorway and bring the wall itself to mind. The work can be divided into several stages:

1. Basic plastering.
2. Surface leveling.
3. Door installation.
4. Wall decoration.

First you need to mask all the joints and places where the drywall is attached to the frame. To do this, you need a putty mixture, a small spatula and a sickle. Putty should be applied to all problem areas. In order for the mass to hold better, pre-glue the mesh. The corners are trimmed using an angular aluminum profile.

After the base plaster has dried, the plasterboard partition with the doorway must be completely primed and puttied. This will finally level the surface and prepare it for further decorative finishing.

After the installation of the partition is completed, all joints must be puttied

After that, you can either immediately install the door frame, or pre-finish the wall. To do this, you can use paint, plaster, wallpaper and other materials.

On a leveled surface, installing a box with your own hands is much easier. First, measure the dimensions of the racks and cut off the excess if necessary. Then it is enough to insert the assembled frame into the opening, fix it with bolts to the support beams and install the spacers. There must be a gap between the partition and the box for foaming. After the foam has dried, the spacers are removed, the excess material is cut off with a knife and the trim is attached. After that, a sliding system is installed or a hinged canvas is hung.

When it is important to bring out a perfectly even opening at the frame device stage and strengthen it wooden beams. If everything is done correctly, there will be no problems with further finishing.

Due to inconvenient layouts, more and more people are making partitions with a door in their apartments to make the rooms not walkable, but isolated.

A plasterboard partition with a door allows you to quickly and effectively make your home more comfortable and convenient. A sliding door will save a lot of space.
If you follow the assembly instructions, you can do the installation of a partition with a door built into it with your own hands.

Creating a partition requires preliminary calculations that will help you avoid problems at the design stage. In order for the installation to be successful with your own hands, all calculations should be made in the drawing. To do this, we perform the following manipulations:

• measure the perimeter of the room;
• choose a place for construction;
• determine the dimensions of the partition: height, length and width. The width should be determined based on the width of the door that you will mount in the partition;

Note! The height of the partition in this case will be equal to the height of the walls.

• All calculations are transferred to the scheme.

Before carrying out all the above calculations, it is necessary to decide on the format of the door, which you will later build into the partition. You should also know exactly whether niches will be located in your partition. If you need them, they must be indicated on the drawing with all dimensions.
When the drawing is drawn up, you can easily calculate the required amount of materials.

Tools and materials

Any construction work involves the use of a certain set of tools. In this situation, you will need:

• screwdriver or drill;
• hydraulic level or laser level;
• tape measure and pencil;
• plumb lines;
• plane;
• knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• spatula.

The list of necessary materials for creating a partition with your own hands includes:

• drywall sheets. For residential premises, you can use standard sheets, and for the kitchen and bath - only moisture resistant. Plate thickness - 12.5 mm;
• galvanized profile. It is best to take a width of 75 mm;
• wooden bars;
• self-tapping screws and dowels;
• primer and putty;
• sickle.

Such a set of materials and tools will allow you to quickly make the installation of the entire structure with your own hands.

Getting ready to work right

Preparation is a key point in any construction work related to the application metal frame and drywall sheets.
In order to quickly and correctly do all the installation work, it is necessary to carry out preliminary preparation. In this situation, it includes the following actions:

Wall primer

• clearing the space in the room so that nothing interferes with the work;
• removal from the walls of the previous finishing material. If the wall remains untreated, this may adversely affect the quality of attaching metal profiles to it;
• Next, we prime the wall and ceiling. This is especially necessary if the structure is being built in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

After the primer dries, you should, referring to the drawing, apply markings to the walls, ceiling and floor. Be sure to use a level to bring out clear and even lines.
Now everything is ready and you can start assembling the structure.

Construction assembly

To make a partition with a built-in door, you need to perform three main steps:

• assemble the frame;
• sheathe it with plasterboard sheets;
• build a door. The door in the plasterboard partition can be ordinary or sliding.

Frame assembly

Installation of metal profiles to create a frame structure is as follows:

• we fix the guide profile on the floor along the drawn lines with the help of self-tapping screws;
• further into this profile, which plays the role of a support, we insert a guide profile along the wall. It must go strictly vertically;
• dowel-nails can be used to attach profiles to the walls, especially if the house was built from a foam block. The fastening step in this situation is 40-50 cm;
• we connect vertical profiles with each other with short profiles installed horizontally. The length of short profiles must correspond to the width of the partition;
• then we carry out the installation of guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the partition. They need to be fixed along the marking lines on the ceiling, floor and wall;

• to connect the profiles to each other, you need to use short self-tapping screws.

Partition frame

When installing profiles on the ceiling, plumb lines should be used to ensure the correctness of the entire structure. The profiles on the ceiling must be strictly parallel to the profiles installed on the floor. It is to determine compliance with this parameter that you need to use plumb lines.
After the frame is ready along the perimeter of the partition, you can proceed with the installation of internal vertical profiles. First we create a doorway. This procedure requires the following operations:

• we cut the rack profiles to the size we need and insert them into the guides;

Note! The width of the doorway should be the same at the top and bottom.

doorway frame

• check the installed racks with the level;
• inside the profiles, to increase the rigidity of the structure, you need to insert wooden bars. They are inserted along the entire length of the profile. Bars need to be inserted only along the doorway;
• wooden bars also need to be inserted into the frame of niches and shelves, which are supposed to be mounted on the partition;
• here it is recommended to fix all the elements with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

After that, you can install vertical profiles across the entire width of the structure. In this situation, the distance between adjacent profiles is determined by the width of the drywall sheet. Thus, there should be three profiles per sheet. Therefore, the installation step will be 60 cm.
At the end of the installation of the partition device between the metal profiles, we conduct wiring. This is only done when necessary.

Structural sheathing

When the metal structure has been assembled, we proceed to sheathing it with plasterboard sheets. To sheathe the structure with your own hands, you must also adhere to certain recommendations.
The lining of the partition is as follows:

• We put solid sheets in the middle, and we sheathe the edges with pieces. So trimming will be less noticeable;
• to obtain pieces of the desired size, we make markings on the sheets and cut them with a knife;
• next we sheathe the doorway;
• the edges of the pieces must be processed with a planer;
• the fastening of drywall sheets is carried out so that the edges fall into the middle of the profiles;
• the screwing pitch of the self-tapping screws is 15-20 cm. And the screwing depth into the material is 1 mm.

Partition sheathing

Partition sheathing is first carried out on one side. Then we put soundproofing material inside. Most often, mineral wool or isover is used as such a material. The sheathing of the structure on one side allows you to make the insertion of sound insulation more convenient.
After installing the soundproofing layer, sheathing with drywall plates is carried out on the other side.

Finishing the partition

When the entire structure of the partition is removed and sheathed, we carry out its final finishing. To do this, you need to do the following:

Smearing joints

• we process all joints between the plates with a sickle;
• then put putty on top of the tape. Do not forget that the screws should also be hidden under a layer of putty;
• all irregularities are rubbed with sandpaper;
• apply a layer of finishing putty. It should be perfectly even. But if there are small irregularities, we overwrite them with sandpaper.

Next, we prime the entire partition. After the mortar has dried, it is ready for final finishing and door installation. As a result, you will get a new drywall wall with a built-in door.
The final finish involves painting the entire structure or pasting it with wallpaper. You can also use other Decoration Materials. The main condition is to preserve the overall composition in the interior of the room. As a result, you will get an excellent partition wall.

Our topic today is a wall with a plasterboard door. We will find out from what and how to assemble a wall frame, at what point a door block should be installed in it, how to ensure maximum structural rigidity and high-quality sound insulation between rooms. Let's get started.

What is needed to assemble the partition?

frame

The frame of any drywall construction can be made from a galvanized profile, produced specifically for this purpose, and from a slightly cheaper bar.

What to choose? We strongly advise you to stay on the profile.

There are several reasons for this:

• Its ideal geometry. The bar often has noticeable bumps, "propellers", bends and other defects, so part of the material purchased without sorting will inevitably go to waste;

• Its zero hygroscopicity, on the practical side, meaning a constant shape of the frame, regardless of humidity and air temperature. The wood swells in wet weather, which often leads to deformation of the wall and the appearance of cracks in its finish;

Note: this lack of wood is leveled by its impregnation with drying oil or other water-repellent material. However, the price of impregnation negates the difference in cost between the bar and the profile, and the drying time will make you delay the repair for several days.

• Its resistance to biological influences (rot, mold, insects). High humidity, coupled with hungry carpenter beetles, are quite capable of completing the career of a wooden frame in a dozen years.

Which profiles need to be purchased to assemble the partition frame with a doorway in it:

Image	Description
	Rack-mounted. It forms a rigid frame and strapping of the door block. The height of the vertical walls of the U-shaped profile is unchanged and equal to 50 millimeters, but its width can vary from 50 to 100 mm. The width is selected depending on the requirements for the strength of the wall (a wide profile provides greater rigidity) and its soundproofing qualities (thick sound-absorbing material will let less sounds into the adjacent room). The length of the profile must be at least equal to the height of the wall, and the number of profiles is selected for a step between posts of 600 mm.
	guide. He is responsible for fastening the racks to the capital structures - the ceiling, adjacent walls and the floor. The width of the guide profile must match the width of the uprights. The total length of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the partition with a margin of about a meter for the strapping of the door block.

Auxiliary materials

In addition to the profile, the installation of a plasterboard wall with a door will require the purchase of additional materials:

• 9mm self-tapping screws for metal. They frame parts are connected to each other;
• Dowel screws (60x6 mm for concrete and 80x8 for brick). They are attached to adjacent structures guides;
• Self-tapping screws for sheathing the frame with drywall. With a single-layer sheathing, their length should be equal to 25 millimeters. If the skin is two-layer, the second layer is fastened with 40 mm self-tapping screws. The number of fasteners is about 70 self-tapping screws per sheet of plasterboard;

Hint: two-layer sheathing is desirable in rooms with an increased load on the walls (read - with high traffic) - hallways and interior corridors.

• Self-tapping screws for fastening the door block to the racks. Their length is determined by the thickness of the door frame and varies from 16 to 40 mm. In most cases, you can use 25 mm fasteners for plasterboard;
• Gypsum putty for filling joints and filling fasteners;
• Serpyanki (fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide with an adhesive layer on one side) for reinforcing seams;

• Damper tape for acoustic decoupling of the partition frame with ceilings and walls;
• Actually drywall. In dry rooms, wall 12.5 mm plasterboard is used, in wet rooms (bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens) - moisture-resistant drywall of the same thickness. The amount of material is calculated according to the area of ​​the wall, taking into account the double-sided cladding and the margin for cutting approximately 15%;
• acrylic primer. Priming precedes the final finishing of GKL.

Tools

To assemble the partition you will need:

• Perforator with a drill for the size of dowel screws;
• Screwdriver;
• Metal shears for profile cutting;

Attention: it is strongly not recommended to cut galvanized steel with a grinder. During abrasive cutting, the anti-corrosion coating burns out, and at high humidity, the profile begins to rust.

• A bucket for preparing putty with a volume of 3-6 liters;

Please note: the volume of a single portion of gypsum putty usually does not exceed 3 liters. The reserve by volume of the container for mixing the mixture is useful when mixing, but inconvenient when puttying.

• Knife, hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting drywall;

Hint: curved parts are cut out of the plasterboard with a narrow hacksaw or electric jigsaw. It is better not to cut it along straight lines, but to break it, having previously cut it with a knife along the ruler by 1/4 - 1/3 of the thickness: this way there will be much less gypsum dust in the room.

• A pair of spatulas (narrow and wide) for puttying;

• Grater or grinder with grinding nets No. 100 - No. 120;
• Roulette, ruler, plumb line and pencil for marking the frame and wall cladding.

Mounting order

First and foremost: what comes first - doors or drywall on the walls? The door block is most conveniently mounted at the frame assembly stage. How exactly - we will now tell.

The video in this article will help you become more visually familiar with how a drywall wall with a door is mounted.

frame

Here step-by-step instruction for its assembly:

1. Mark the line of the future wall. The marking is first applied to the floor or ceiling, then transferred to the second floor with a plumb line, and only then is it done on the walls;
2. Fasten the guide profile along this line. The distance between the dowel-screws is 40-50 centimeters. Holes for fasteners are drilled directly through a profile pressed against the ceiling, wall or floor. In the lower guide, make a gap the width of the doorway ( door leaf+ box) at the place where the door is installed;

Hint: Don't forget to put damper tape under the guides. If you can't find it in local hardware stores, the tape can be cut from foam insulation or a thick foam underlay for laminate flooring.

1. Mark the position of the racks on the floor and ceiling. Marking is carried out strictly on a plumb line. A step of 600 mm is measured between the middle of the profiles: in this case, the joint of adjacent drywall sheets (its width is 120 centimeters) will be there;

1. Cut the rack profiles to length, line them up with marks and secure with metal screws on both sides of the rail.

Tip: Take the time to measure the distance between floor and ceiling for each rack. The difference in floor height often reaches several centimeters, and racks cut to a common measure have a non-zero chance of going to waste.

In pursuit of toughness

What to do if the small area of ​​​​the apartment limits the thickness of the partition, and the patency of the premises imposes strict requirements on the strength of its frame?

Here are some possible solutions:

• Reduce the pitch between the uprights to 400 or even 300 millimeters. The main thing is that the width of the drywall sheet remains a multiple of this step;
• Connect the rack profiles in two (in the shape of the letter "H" or by nesting them into each other);

• Insert wooden mortgages into the rack profiles - bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

Noise isolation

AT general case it is carried out with mineral wool laid between the racks of the frame.

Hint: it is more convenient to use not roll insulation, but glued boards 1000x600 mm in size. They stand between the racks with a standard pitch without cutting in width and do not cake, leaving the top of the wall without soundproofing filling.

If you need the highest quality sound insulation (for example, between the bedroom and the living room in two-room apartment), filling the frame with insulation is not enough: you need to acoustically decouple the wall sheathing from both sides. The fact is that the frame perfectly transmits low-frequency vibrations from one side of the partition to the other.

How to do it?

By assembling two independent frames with a centimeter gap between them. Each of them is filled with mineral wool and sheathed with drywall on one side.

Door

As we wrote above, the swing door is installed at the frame assembly stage.

This is done like this:

1. Install on a plumb line one of the racks adjacent to the doorway;
2. Place the door block close to it (a box with a canvas wedged in it);

Attention: if the door in the box is not wedged, after installation it can overwrite the jambs. In the role of wedges, you can use pieces of hardboard or chips.

1. Tighten the door frame with self-tapping screws screwed in from the side of the rack. Step - 20-25 cm;

Hint: the adjoining of the door frame to the rack will become airtight, and the connection itself will be stronger if you first apply a strip of mounting foam to the rack.

1. On the opposite side of the door block, fix the second post in the same way;
2. Screw the second post to the rails;
3. Connect the racks adjacent to the door with a horizontal jumper from the guide profile. To the crossbar of the door frame, it is attracted by the same self-tapping screws.

A special case

How to install sliding doors on drywall walls? If you want the door to go into the wall when opening, you will need a serious refinement of the frame design.

• The frame of the blind area above the door must have a maximum thickness of 100 mm;
• Under it, a wooden mortgage is installed in the frame - a bar with a section of at least 50x100 mm. He will have to perceive the vertical load from the door leaf;
• Below the mortgage, two frames are formed with a gap between them. Since the wall thickness is limited by the width of a 100 mm profile and beam, a ceiling profile is usually used to assemble them: the height of its side walls is only 27 mm.

sheathing

So, the frame is ready, the door is installed. Next stage - . Here are the simple rules for its installation.

• The sheet is installed so that its edge falls exactly in the middle of the rack;
• Start fastening from the top of the sheet - then you do not have to hold it with your hands;
• Self-tapping screws are screwed in increments of 150-200 millimeters;

Tip: if you do not rely on your eye, use a span instead of a ruler. This is the name of the ancient measure of length, corresponding to the distance between the tips divorced in different sides index and thumb. In SI units, the span is recalculated as 17.78 cm, but in practice its length varies from 17 to 19 cm.

• The distance between the attachment point and the edge of the GCR should be at least 20 mm. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw will crumble the edge when screwing in;
• The head of the self-tapping screw is heated by about 1 millimeter, while the sheet shell should not break through. In this case, the fastening strength will be maximum, and the putty will easily hide the fasteners;

• The sheet is screwed to all profiles that it overlaps, including guides.

Puttying

The sealing of the seams begins with their jointing: the edges of the additional sheets are cut off with a clerical knife by 2/3 of the sheet thickness at an angle of 45 degrees (see). Jointing allows you to fill the seam during puttying to its entire depth, which will reduce the likelihood of cracks in the future.

Captain Evidence suggests: semicircular factory edges do not need jointing.

Now it's time to prepare the putty. It is closed with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry mix.

First, water is poured into the mixing container, and only then gypsum is poured: otherwise, dense lumps will form at the bottom, which will leave grooves when puttying. After 3-5 minutes, the putty that has absorbed water is mixed with a spatula or a drill with a whisk, and after another 5 minutes it is ready for puttying.

How to putty the seams remaining between the sheets when attaching drywall with your own hands:

1. Glue a sickle along the seam;
2. Fill the seam with putty directly through its cells;
3. After the putty has dried (after at least 6 hours), apply a second covering coat of putty with a wide spatula. It should hide the relief of the fiberglass mesh.

By the way: self-tapping screws also have to putty 2-3 times. Putty (even the so-called non-shrink) in practice still shrinks slightly when dried.

Do I need to putty the wall over its entire surface?

This is done in two cases:

1. Under the wallpaper, which is planned to be changed in the future. The separating layer between the wallpaper and the GKL shell will allow you to remove the finish coating without damaging the drywall;
2. If the seams between the sheets cut in place are distinguished by their thickness. A thin (1 mm) layer of putty will help level the surface.

Puttying over the entire area of ​​​​gypsum board is carried out with a wide spatula, on which putty is applied using a narrower tool. If you do not have a lot of experience in the relevant work, it is easier to apply not one millimeter layer, but two thin layers “on a strip” perpendicular to each other.

Attention: both spatulas and utensils for mixing putty should be washed immediately after the next portion has been worked out. Otherwise, the next time the seized lumps will spoil the finish, falling under the spatula.

fine finish

It starts with sanding the wall with a grinder or hand grater.

A few tips:

• Use goggles and a gauze bandage or respirator. Gypsum dust pretty irritates both the eyes and the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract;
• For the duration of the grinding, close all doors to adjacent rooms and plug the remaining cracks. This will save you from having to wash the repainted in White color furniture and other household utensils throughout the apartment;
• Sand the wall with bright light falling on it at an oblique angle. Lighting will emphasize all the bumps.

Then the wall is swept from the remaining dust and primed with a brush, roller or sprayer.

Painting and wallpapering are quite standard (see). There is only one subtlety here: you can paint the wall with any water-based paint at least half a month after puttying the joints, when the gypsum hydration processes are completely completed in them. Otherwise, they will stand out in hue, regardless of the number of layers of paint you applied.

Platband installation

Platbands are placed after the completion of the fine finish. The method of fastening depends on whether you plan to remove them in the future.

If dismantling is possible, use brass or copper nails without hats, sinking them with a hammer (so as not to leave dents); otherwise, stick the trims on liquid nails or sealant (silicone or acrylic).

Closing the opening

How to close up a hole in the wall with drywall if the door has become unnecessary?

It's very simple: mount a guide profile around its perimeter, choosing its width so that after plasterboard sheathing (one- or two-layer), the plasterboard surface is flush with the surface of the main wall.

Hint: if the edges of the opening are uneven, use straight hangers to fasten the rails.

You already know the further scheme of action: after installing one or two racks, the frame is sewn up, followed by puttying the seams and fasteners.

Conclusion

We hope that we were able to answer all the questions that the reader has accumulated. Good luck!

Many today choose drywall to make an additional load-bearing wall or a decorative partition in the room. This material is easy to handle and allows you to build such a structure with your own hands, without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap.

However, with a door, this is a difficult constructive object of the room. Nothing prevents you from doing everything yourself, but in order to do the job correctly, it is important to adhere to the technological requirements.

Project

Everything should be taken into account here:

• object thickness;
• load on the frame;
• doorway parameters, etc.

To get a good result, it is important to do the calculations correctly. This is especially true for loads. This indicator has a direct impact on the design and selection of materials for the frame. It depends on how long the wall will last, the level of its strength and reliability.

First, determine the location of the structure. Then markup correctly. Lay the metal profile on the floor according to the marked lines. For fixing, use dowels and screws.

The profile is not laid from one wall to another, but only to the zone where the doorway begins.

In order to correctly lay the profiles, determine in advance the placement of the partition that you want to make with your own hands and the location of the opening under the door.

There are two options here:

1. The door is located against the wall - a solid profile is laid up to the beginning of the opening on one side.
2. The door is located in the center of the partition or near it - the profile is laid on both sides of the opening.

After that, the installation work is moved to the ceiling. If you are making a structure with your own hands, you can make marking easier with the help of a laser building level. This tool will draw a precise line on the surface of the ceiling.

Partition scheme

If you do not have this tool at hand, use another method. This will require a plumb line, which is lowered from the ceiling. After that, two or three points are marked on the surface. Through them draw a contour line on the ceiling.

The upper profile is fixed in the same way (using dowels and self-tapping screws). Fasteners are placed in increments of 50-60 cm. Next, vertical racks are mounted, located against the wall.

To do-it-yourself frame construction good indicator soundproofing, before fastening a special sealing tape is laid under the profile.

Forming a doorway

The doorway deserves separate consideration, since the area where it is located is a vulnerable part of the plasterboard partition.

Instructions for forming a doorway:

1. After the described installation steps, two vertical racks are installed, which will outline the location of the opening. These racks must be securely fastened. Fixing points must be on profiles located both on the floor and on the ceiling.
2. With an indent of 0.6 m from the wall, intermediate racks are installed. Of course, it will not be possible to achieve such a placement step with all the racks, but in this case it does not matter much.
3. To set the width of the opening, a section of the profile corresponding in length and two more small racks (about 0.1 m each) are cut out. This is necessary in order to make a U-shaped structure. It is fixed with racks up in the place where the horizontal crossbar is located above the door.
4. To give strength to this element, a rack or a pair of racks is installed. The size of these parts is equal to the distance from the cross member to the ceiling profile. In other words, you are building a frame over a doorway.
5. All components of the structure are fastened with self-tapping screws. You can increase the level of rigidity of the frame, which falls on the doorway. For these purposes, a wooden beam is used, the thickness of which is selected so as to insert the product into the profile. With this technique, you will make the frame stronger, which is important if you are making a partition with your own hands. However, the cost of construction will increase.

Structural reinforcement

Many manufacturers, especially for those who decide to install the partition with their own hands, make reinforced versions of products that can withstand the influence of serious loads.

This completes the construction of the frame elements of the partition. You can start facing work with drywall. Of course, electrical wiring is preliminarily mounted inside the frame, if necessary. They are placed in the holes of vertically arranged racks, whose thickness allows you to perform a similar procedure.

Cladding installation technology

Drywall installation process

Installation instructions:

1. The first self-tapping screw from the edge of the sheet is screwed in at a distance of 10-15 mm.
2. Fasteners are installed at a distance of not more than 250 mm from each other. Perfect Pitch placement of self-tapping screws is 100-150 mm.
3. The seams between the GKL should fall in the middle of the metal profile.
4. Self-tapping screws must be sunk into drywall to a depth of about 0.5-0.8 mm.
5. The minimum length of fasteners is 25 mm if one layer of GKL is applied. With a two-layer coating of the frame with material, the length of the self-tapping screws increases to 40 mm. The optimal fastener length is determined based on the thickness of the drywall and the profile, beyond which the self-tapping screw must extend at least one centimeter. If you are using wooden frame for the installation of a drywall partition, the minimum penetration depth of the fasteners is two centimeters.

A video tutorial will tell you in detail about the installation

After fixing all the sheets on one side, the partitions proceed to the processing of the other side. Beforehand, a heater is placed in the frame, for example, mineral wool. The material is sold in the form of rolls or mats. The width is selected so that this indicator is slightly larger than the space between the profiles. This will avoid the formation of even the smallest gaps.

Installing drywall on the other side is done in a similar way. To achieve a uniform redistribution of loads, it is recommended to mount the sheets with a vertical offset of 40 cm relative to each other.

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