Many people suffer from cold in their apartments and think about how to insulate the walls. This business can be done at any time, and if there is a major overhaul, then, as they say, God himself ordered. By insulating houses from the inside, we can protect them from frost in winter, as well as from excessive moisture when it starts to rain. Thermal protection is still considered the main criterion for such work. Today, there are materials and technologies that will help you do the work yourself. If the insulation inside the room is carried out qualitatively, then the heating costs become minimal.

Walls in the corner apartments of high-rise buildings and in private houses suffer the most. Having decided to take care of your apartment or house, you need to get acquainted with the features of the work, find out the technological nuances. We will talk about how to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house.

We warm houses from the inside

To create comfortable living conditions (preservation of heat, getting rid of damp, moldy surfaces), the walls of houses can be insulated both from the inside and outside, from the side of the facade. The most effective is considered to be internal insulation. Especially:

Taking care of the insulation of the house from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials that have a vapor barrier. The work must comply with a special technology, otherwise, instead of insulating a private house or apartment in a high-rise building, you will become the culprit of its destruction: mold will appear due to condensation. The fact is that dew point may form- an increase in humidity in the room, when the heating season begins, leads to the appearance of droplets on the walls, in those places where the joints and seams are not insulated.

How to choose the right insulation material for walls?

If you have to deal with the insulation of walls from the inside, you will have to take care of the choice of material. Special requirements are imposed on thermal insulation materials:

• expanded polystyrene and mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam and ecowool;
• penoplex.

Exactly these Construction Materials and are used if you need to do internal insulation.

If you decide to do the insulation of a private house from the inside with your own hands, try to learn more about the installation features. In addition to printed articles and Internet materials, you can use video tutorials that show in detail all the steps for installing insulation, both frame methods and frameless. Interested homeowners can visually track all stages of work.

In the case when there are no special building skills, it is best to do the work apply to specialized companies Otherwise, you will have to redo everything, and these are additional material costs. Specialists perform work on insulation efficiently, quickly, observing the technology.

The use of mineral wool

Walls can be insulated with mineral wool. It is used most often, although such material cannot be called an ideal option. The point is that after some time mineral wool begins to absorb moisture, so it is not possible to avoid the appearance of damp places. When working with this material, everything should be done according to the instructions, not forgetting to process the joints. In addition, the walls themselves and the insulation must first be impregnated with antifungal compounds. Only in this way it is possible to extend the operation of the insulation for ten years.

Before insulating with mineral wool, a metal frame is mounted on the wall. Plates are installed in the resulting cells, which must be tamped. The surface must be covered with drywall. When choosing mineral wool, do not forget that the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment will decrease.

We insulate the walls from the inside with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene has recently gained popularity as a heater. This material has:

• low specific gravity;
• minimum thickness, so installation does not require the installation of a frame;
• room humidity does not affect the quality of the material;
• Styrofoam is attached with building glue. You can also use dowels or liquid nails. But first, the joint areas are treated with polyurethane foam.

Penoplex - an environmentally friendly material for insulation

Penoplex, another name for expanded polystyrene foam, is an excellent material because it:

Styrofoam as a heater

The inside of the house can be upholstered with foam. For its installation does not require the installation of a frame. Material produced in the form of panels that simply stick directly to the wall. As an adhesive composition, you can take the one with which ceramic tiles are usually glued.

Glue is applied to the foam, then, slightly pressing, a mesh metal reinforcement is installed. The overlap must be at least 15 centimeters. This layer is then plastered or painted, then wallpaper is pasted. Can be used when finishing ceramic or tile.

The choice of insulation depends on the material of the walls

Tired of freezing in winter and you decide to insulate your apartment or private house? Please note that the choice of insulation will directly depend on what material the walls themselves are made of.

1. If the wall is made of brick, then polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and mineral wool will work more efficiently in this case.
2. Walls based on foam blocks are usually insulated with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
3. In wooden houses, it is effective to use foam plastic and expanded polystyrene when insulating internal walls.
4. If the house is made of concrete, then each owner has the right to choose the material that he likes best, since there are no restrictions on the choice of insulation.
5. For insulation of timber houses it is better to use ecowool, although it will be necessary to install not only a vapor barrier, but also a crate.

Perform insulation inside the house, following special rules. High-quality insulation can be done with your own hands, if you listen to the advice of specialists. First of all, it concerns the walls. When preparing them, you need to perform the following types of work:

• Using a building hair dryer, spotlights, infrared lamps, heaters, dry the walls thoroughly.
• Check the integrity of the insulating materials, if there is damage, then they should be repaired. Such work is very important to protect the surface from dampness and steam.
• All seams that form between the floor slabs, as well as the heat-insulating layer, must be processed.

When preparing the surface, a number of specific preparatory work that require a special careful approach:

How much does it cost to insulate a house inside?

If you decide to start creating comfortable conditions in your private home with your own hands, then it will be much cheaper than the services of specialized companies. On average, per square meter of insulation will have to pay 450 rubles or more. The cost of a square will depend on what material you used for insulation and what additional work had to be done before installing the heater.

It should be noted that interior work for home insulation are not always justified. It is better, of course, to do this outside the building. But if its implementation is impossible for various reasons, then the standards fully allow the insulation of walls in the interior of houses.

Of course, for the sake of comfort and warmth will have to sacrifice square meters, since insulating materials “eat up” part of the area due to their volumes. But, as they say, it is better to live in a slightly reduced house than in cold and damp.

Perhaps modern technologies will soon make it possible to make houses warm, saving space and at the same time getting rid of condensate. So far, it is the technologies and materials listed above that make it possible to solve the existing problems with heat preservation in a private house.

Wall insulation in residential buildings, especially apartment buildings, is an important and responsible process, especially if a major overhaul is planned - the insulation protects the walls from freezing in the winter and dampness in the off-season, but its main function is to provide thermal protection.

Thanks to high-quality wall insulation with inside, for example, you can significantly save on heating, this is especially true for corner apartments and private houses. The issue of insulation should be approached very seriously, since the result of the work is designed for a long period of operation, therefore below we will consider the types and technologies of insulation applied to different types walls.

Types of wall insulation and features of internal insulation

Wall insulation can be outdoor and internal. The first type is considered more effective and is the modern standard, but internal wall insulation becomes the only way out if it is not possible to produce external one for one of the following reasons:

• The house is part of the architectural heritage or the facade faces the main street.
• The presence of an expansion joint of buildings in the area that is planned to be insulated.
• Outside behind the wall is an unheated room (for example, an elevator shaft).

The performance of internal insulation requires right choice material, since it must be vapor-tight, as well as careful installation - if the work is not done correctly, the apartment will not only not become warmer, but will also be subject to the destructive effects of mold, fertile soil for which can be condensate that appears between the main wall and the insulation layer, or dew point.

What is dew point and what does it matter when planning wall insulation?

Dew point- this is a place on the wall where, at a certain temperature, the vapor contained in the air begins to condense, settling on the walls in the form of droplets resembling dew. It is of great importance, first of all, in the inter-heating seasons, when the air temperature in the premises decreases and the humidity rises. In fact, the higher the humidity, the closer the dew point is to the air temperature, and vice versa. Condensation appears in uninsulated or most weak points walls - at joints and seams.

The choice of material for insulating walls from the inside with your own hands, insulation technologies

The first requirements when choosing materials for internal wall insulation are their high density, low vapor permeability, and the minimum number of joints during installation. The most common heaters for indoor use are materials based on foam, polyethylene, warm plaster, ceramic compounds, mineral wool and many others, and we will consider the most acceptable types of materials and the technology for their installation when doing do-it-yourself insulation.

internal wall insulation with mineral wool- one of the most common, but not ideal types of insulation, since wool over time can begin to absorb moisture and contribute to the appearance of dampness, however, with careful work, processing of joints and impregnation of the wall and insulation with antifungal compounds, its service life is quite long and can reach 10 years .

When insulated with mineral wool, the wall is equipped metal frame, the cells of which are filled with mineral wool slabs, are carefully compacted and covered with drywall sheets on top. The disadvantage of this method of insulation is a decrease in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Striving for comfort, many residents of apartments refuse centralized heating and install warm electric floors; testimonials from those who have already used warm floors, eloquently testify to increased comfort and warmth along with savings.

Instructions for laying underfloor heating devi - in this article. Features of installation and competent styling.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam also popular as styrofoam sheets have a low specific gravity and great resistance moisture, and their small thickness does not require prior placement of the frame on the wall. Fastening to the prepared wall can be done using building glue, dowels, liquid nails, be sure to treat the joints with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of internal walls with foam, or expanded polystyrene foam, is considered one of the most reliable ways to protect the premises from dampness. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, has high strength and wear resistance, is fireproof, easy to install and relatively inexpensive.

Penoplex is glued or nailed to the prepared wall and requires the creation of a reinforcing layer to give the structure greater strength, as well as additional leveling of the surface - only after that you can start finishing the walls.

Internal wall insulation with foam also done frameless by gluing foam boards to the wall with ceramic tile adhesive.

The surface of the foam is covered with a layer of glue and a reinforced mesh with an overlap of 10-15 cm is placed on top of it with a slight indentation, which is eventually covered with a layer of plaster for painting or wallpapering, or ceramic or tile is mounted directly on the insulation.

Before insulating the walls of the apartment from the inside, it is necessary choose insulation material to the materials from which the walls or ceilings are made:

• insulation of a brick wall from the inside can be done using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and mineral wool;
• internal insulation of walls made of foam blocks is best done with foam plastic, foam plastic or expanded polystyrene;
• for insulation of internal walls wooden house it is better to use penoplex or polystyrene foam;
• it is possible to insulate concrete walls from the inside using any of the described heaters.

Many owners of their own suburban housing are interested, especially if there is no basement or cellar. Find out the features and methods of floor insulation in a private cottage or country house.

If the house is cold or the climate is harsh, you should also think about how to insulate the walls of the apartment from the inside. Learn about the methods and features of wall insulation from the inside of a dwelling.

When choosing materials for internal insulation, it is important that they meet the following requirements:

• resistance to high temperature, fire safety;
• low ability to conduct heat - the selected material should not release heat from the room in winter and should not contribute to heating the apartment in summer;
• environmental friendliness or safety for health;
• durability, strength and ability to retain shape and volume;
• high resistance to moisture.

Also, when planning self-insulation of walls, it is advisable to consult with specialists who could recommend optimal thickness material.

Rules for the internal insulation of the walls of the apartment

Walls to be insulated must be properly prepared to this process, and the most important elements of preparation are:

• drying the wall with a building hair dryer, spotlights or infrared lamps;
• checking the condition or installing insulating materials that will protect the surface from moisture and steam;
• processing of seams between floor slabs and in the heat insulator layer.

Warming process step by step as follows:

1. All finishes are completely removed, the primer layer should also be completely removed, especially if traces of mold or fungus are noticed. The surface is completely cleaned with construction vacuum cleaner and a broom The walls are dried with a building hair dryer, spotlights or infrared lamps and, if necessary, impregnated with antifungal mixtures.
2. After the wall has completely dried, it is necessary to block all cracks and holes. If they are shallow, you can use a cement or any other primer mixture; for cracks up to 3 cm deep, it is recommended to use mounting foam, deeper damage should be covered with tow and blown out with mounting foam.
3. The next stage is surface treatment with antiseptics and a primer. The break between actions should be sufficient for the wall to dry well.
4. The surface must be leveled for a snug further fit of the frame or frameless insulation.
5. Particular attention should be paid to the joints of the floors - blow out all the holes, and also glue them with construction fabric.
6. If necessary, you can additionally lay a layer of waterproofing, which should be placed between the base of the wall and the insulation layer.
7. After preparing the wall, you can proceed with the installation, the methods of which for each of the materials have been described above.
8. After complete drying of the insulation layer and additional elements(reinforced mesh, finishing primer layer) you can start finishing the walls.

The cost of insulation square meter of wall with my own hands will be from 450 rubles to a higher price based on the type of insulation chosen and a set of additional measures for surface preparation.

Wall insulation from the inside should be resorted to only in extreme cases, when the outside, that is, accepted as a modern standard, is impossible. The constant development of technologies over time will make it possible to improve the process of warming an apartment from the inside without losing space and the risk of condensation in the wall space, however, the methods listed above are among the most optimal in the current conditions.

For those who are interested in the technology in a more visual format, see the wall insulation from the inside in the video instructions:

External walls are the most important element of the building, which, in addition to performing a load-bearing function, also protects the interior of the house from adverse weather conditions. Modern multi-layer structures allow rational use of energy resources, significant savings on heating and building maintenance, which cannot be said about "traditional" brick or panel buildings Soviet period. But the time has come to count the money - all that remains is to insulate what we have. In the article we will consider topical issues wall insulation from the inside.

Is it possible to insulate the room from the inside at all? In professional circles, disputes on this subject are serious. Manufacturers of thermal insulation materials and practicing builders have not come to a consensus about whether it is possible to insulate from the inside, this is a painfully risky undertaking. At the same time, everyone agrees that the best option in all respects is the thermal insulation of the facade.

What should a simple layman do, who faces the problem of a serious loss of heat through the outer walls, because the information is extremely contradictory, and there was no choice, and there is no choice - there is no way to insulate from the outside. There can be many reasons for this situation: the apartment borders on unheated premises (elevator shaft, corridors, stairwells), beyond outer wall located expansion joint between two closely standing houses, the facade has an expensive finish, the building is an architectural monument or is located in the historical part of the city, the authorities regulate urban development in their own way - they simply prohibit the insulation of facades.

Some clarity on this issue, of course, is brought in by GOSTs and SNiPs operating in the countries of the post-Soviet space, which strongly recommend that “cold” layers be placed indoors, which are characterized by high thermal conductivity and minimal vapor permeability - concrete, brick, stone. The place for the insulation is clearly defined - this is the outer side of the building envelope. However, even regulations have exceptions. For example, in P3-2000 to SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Design and installation of thermal insulation of enclosing structures of residential buildings" in section No. 7, dedicated to constructive solutions, it is said that it is allowed to insulate the walls of individual apartments of multi-storey buildings if the installation of a heat insulator from the side of the facade is impossible for certain reasons.

What are the disadvantages of warming from the inside

Let's see why it is the internal insulation that has so many opponents, what pitfalls await us. There are several negative points, some of them are not critical, you can put up with them, while others can have very serious consequences and make you approach the issue of warming from the inside with extreme caution:

1. A heat insulator placed on the inner surface of the wall “eats up” the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling. For example, if in a room measuring 4x5 meters we apply 50 mm of insulation on two outer walls, we lose 0.5 m 2 of the total twenty squares.
2. Work on the insulation of walls from the inside can only be carried out in a completely vacated room that has been decommissioned for some time.
3. The installation of insulation on the walls does not end there. In addition, it is necessary to take a number of serious measures to protect the enclosing structures from condensation and organize additional ventilation.
4. If everything is done correctly, then this method of insulation cannot be cheap, as it might seem at first glance.
5. It cannot be said that the technology is simple and accessible. We repeat if everything is done correctly.
6. But the most important thing is the special thermophysical processes that take place in the walls, insulated from the inside. All the well-known "horror stories" related to the internal insulation of residential premises are indeed quite common. The occurrence of water streaks, the spread of fungus and mold, the destruction of finishes and load-bearing elements - all these are the consequences of an illiterate change in the thermal envelope of the room, which entailed violations of the moisture state of the walls.

A secret covered with cotton wool. What happens in a wall insulated from the inside

All processes of interest to us take place not only in sub-zero temperatures, but also in the autumn-spring period with a slight plus outside the window. There is nothing surprising in the fact that the main problems with internally insulated walls appear in winter, when serious differences between the temperature outside and inside the room are possible. It is the outer walls, or, as they are also called, "enclosing structures", that are a buffer that receives the blows of the elements.

It is necessary to consider the effect of temperature on multilayer structures only in combination with changes in their humidity. In fact, water is our main enemy. It is she who, freezing, expands and destroys building arrays, as well as their junctions; it is she, penetrating into the layer of insulation, that nullifies its thermal insulation characteristics; it is a prerequisite for the existence of harmful fungi and microorganisms.

What is the relationship between temperature regime and wall moisture, you ask? Here we come close to considering the phenomenon when, under certain conditions, water vapor from the air reaches critical saturation, and water appears on cold surfaces in the form of condensate. The temperature at which condensation forms on structures is called the "construction dew point". It directly depends on the relative humidity of the indoor air. The higher the humidity, the higher the dew point, the more it approaches the actual temperature (at 100% they are equal). To calculate the exact dew point, a rather complex formula is used. The set of rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings" contains a table of dew point temperatures for different meanings humidity and indoor temperature.

If we take into account the sanitary rules for the operation of residential premises (GOST 30494 and SanPiN 2.1.2.1002), the normalized temperature in the dwelling should be about 20-22 ° C, and the relative humidity of the air should not exceed 55%. According to the table, the dew point will be +10.7 °C. This means that where there is such a temperature in a multi-layer wall, moisture from the air can turn into water and fall out as condensate.

It is obvious that with significant changes in the outside temperature, the dew point moves inside the wall, closer or further from the interior space of the room, since on the one hand we heat the wall, turning on the heating in winter, and from the street it is cooled. This is a kind of tug of war.

The specific place in the building envelope where condensate can fall depends largely on the thermal characteristics of the wall, the thickness and materials of each layer, and their relative position.

1 - wall without insulation; 2 - wall with insulation from the inside

If the structure is not insulated, the dew point is inside the wall, thermal cameras show that it radiates heat, the room is cold even when the heating is running at full power - we lose heat.

With the external location of the heat insulator, the load-bearing wall array completely warms up, accumulates heat, and the dew point shifts to the insulation zone, which must be freed from the moisture formed in it - hence the technology of ventilated facades arose.

The wall, insulated from the inside, completely freezes through, as it is “fenced off” by a heat insulator from internal heat. This significantly reduces the service life of load-bearing walls. The dew point in most cases is located on the inner surface of the building envelope, but with increasing temperature environment can be shifted into the wall array. As a result, moisture forms between the wall and the insulation, which worsens its thermal insulation characteristics. Freezing, it can destroy the adhesive connection of the heat insulator layer with the base. There is a threat of wetting the wall, the appearance of fungus and mold.

How to minimize the negative effects of wall insulation from the inside

SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings" states: "It is not recommended to use thermal insulation from the inside due to the possible accumulation of moisture in the thermal insulation layer, however, if such an application is necessary, the surface from the side of the room must have a continuous and durable vapor barrier layer ".

So, our task is to make the wall warm and dry, for this we need to protect the place where the dew point is located as much as possible from the penetration of water vapor. For this, a whole range of measures is being taken:

1. The insulation layer is closed with high-quality vapor barrier films with sealing of joints and junctions.
2. A heat insulator with the lowest vapor permeability is used. Ideally, if it is less than that of the building envelope. The steam can then be gradually expelled to the outside.
3. A layer of insulation is glued with a minimum gap from the wall, preferably not in a "beacon" way, but on a comb.
4. Insulated walls are lined with moisture-resistant drywall.
5. Additional air exchange is organized to reduce the humidity in the room. Mechanical ventilation systems are used, windows are equipped with control valves.

It is important to completely eliminate possible cold bridges. The fact is that by installing a heat insulator from the inside, we are not able to insulate the junctions of the ceilings and internal walls with the enclosing structures. That is why insulation must be carried out with access to adjacent walls and ceilings, then they should also be carefully isolated from vapors and, possibly, constructively decorated with boxes, false columns.

What thermal insulator to use

Mineral wool

Practice shows that in the vast majority of cases, people insulate walls from the inside with mineral wool. It is placed without any vapor barrier between the racks of the frame of drywall systems. In addition, rolled wool is often used, which is not intended for vertical structures, with a clearly insufficient coefficient of thermal resistance. Such insulation is done easily and very quickly, it is incredibly cheap, but not at all effective, and even harmful.

Note that cotton wool, to put it mildly, is not very suitable for warming from the inside. Fans of this material enthusiastically call it "breathable", but in our case this is just its main drawback. Not only is there easy access to the location of the dew point through the fibers, but the ability of mineral wool to absorb moisture also causes many problems. Of course, you can count on the fact that cotton wool will never get wet, use special mineral plates, which, in terms of thermal characteristics, are identical to expanded polystyrene foam. You can carefully glue them and try to organize an absolutely tight vapor barrier from the inside of the room. But the risk of moistening the insulation and the inner surface of the walls remains, then all efforts will be reduced to zero, the moisture will find a way out into the room, streaks or fungus. This is because the vapor permeability of any building envelope is several times worse than that of cotton wool.

Some craftsmen attempt to completely seal mineral wool slabs - they also use an inner layer of vapor barrier, make “pillows”, sealing cotton wool in a polyethylene sleeve. But other problems arise: the insulation is not fixed to the wall - gaps appear at the locations of the dew point, the plates are difficult to fit together without damaging the shells, the technological chain becomes more complicated.

Styrofoam and XPS

At the moment, expanded polystyrene is one of the best materials for insulating walls from the inside, so from year to year it is increasingly used both in Russia and in many European countries. The popularity of expanded polystyrene is explained by its excellent operational and thermal characteristics. Its undeniable advantages are:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Minimal water absorption and vapor permeability.
3. Ability to withstand high loads, both compressive and tensile.
4. Ease of cutting and installation;
5. Lightweight plates.

So, using foamed or extruded polystyrene foam, we can increase the thermal insulation of the structure to the norm with the minimum possible thickness of the insulation layer. Not only do the foam and XPS do not absorb moisture and do not lose their insulating properties, they also do not allow water vapor to pass into the dew point zone, an additional film vapor barrier will simply be superfluous. Of course, for this it is necessary to reliably isolate the joints of the plates and their adjoining to the enclosing structures. This is fairly easy to do using polyurethane foam. Moreover, some manufacturers produce plates with a stepped edge, due to which the insulation is joined without any gaps at all. Expanded polystyrene can be successfully mounted on the wall according to the facade system, using at the same time adhesive compositions and fixing with dish-shaped dowels.

As we have already noted, the adhesive layer also performs an insulating function; polyurethane adhesive in the form of foam has proven itself especially well. The high strength of the material allows options for finishing insulated walls using a wet method directly on the heat insulator, without the use of frame technologies, while overloading the wall is simply impossible due to the low specific gravity of the material. So, a square meter of an insulating layer made of expanded polystyrene is 2-2.5 times lighter than a similar thickness of mineral wool.

There is one small drawback - polystyrene foam has poor soundproofing properties. The problems of the possible destruction of the heat insulator at temperatures above 80 degrees and the insufficient resistance of expanded polystyrene to the effects of many organic solvents, in our case, are perhaps not critical.

polyurethane foam

This durable and lightweight material is also well suited for insulating walls from the inside. It has excellent insulating properties due to its cellular structure. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is from 0.025 W/(m K), which is one of best performance. The pores of polyurethane foam are filled with air or an inert gas, each such cell is hermetically sealed. That is why moisture is not absorbed into the material and does not pass through it - this is an excellent waterproofing of the building envelope.

Low thermal conductivity, minimal moisture absorption, maximum vapor barrier - that's what we need. But this is not all, the polyurethane foam coating receives special properties thanks to unusual way its application. The fact is that it is applied by spraying a liquid two-component substance that foams on the treated surface and hardens within a few seconds.

• Polyurethane foam perfectly "sticks" to any bases, including ceilings, there is no need to use fasteners, which are cold bridges.
• The coating forms a single whole with the wall, not giving moisture from the room the slightest chance to penetrate into the dew point area.
• The heat-insulating layer is monolithic, without seams and cracks. By spraying the substance, it is possible to insulate curvilinear, semicircular walls without problems.
• Polyurethane foam is applied very quickly. Foaming of the insulation is carried out at the place of work, therefore, due to the small volume of the liquid starting material, the costs of delivery and storage of materials are minimized.
• A layer of polyurethane foam can be plastered using facade technology using a nylon mesh.

Other materials

There are other, often "innovative" wall insulation materials on the market, whose manufacturers claim their outstanding properties. However, they are all a little cunning, hiding obvious flaws or hushing up about serious problems implementation of the relevant technological chains. For example, warm plaster in terms of its thermal characteristics is several times inferior to foamed materials, moreover, it is hygroscopic and vapor-permeable. Foil polyethylene foam has a very low thermal conductivity, but only under one condition - it must be mounted in such a way that there is an air gap between the insulation and the wall, as well as the sheet cladding. Make two sealed gaps, fix the material well, while it is almost impossible to isolate the joints and junctions with high quality. Therefore, in most cases, polyethylene strips are simply nailed to the outer wall with dowels, with the inevitable loss of the declared characteristics. Ceramic-based liquid thermal insulation with a layer thickness of 1 mm replaces 50 mm of mineral wool - this is what its manufacturers say. A thermal conductivity of 0.0016 looks fantastic to say the least, especially when you consider that the ultra-thin coating consists of air-filled ceramic bubbles. But ceramics have a thermal conductivity of 0.8-0.15, and air - 0.025. "Thermal paint" - the material is new and has not really been studied yet, but examples of non-working insulation apartment buildings has already. Perhaps, under certain conditions, such an insulator has the right to exist.

How thick should the insulation be?

The right choice of thermal insulation materials is one of the key aspects of competent wall insulation from the inside, now it is necessary to determine its thickness:

1. First, using the formula R \u003d D / L (where D is the thickness of the structure, and L is the value of the thermal conductivity of the material), we calculate the actual heat transfer resistance of the wall without a heat insulator. For example, if we have a building envelope made of bricks with a thickness of 500 mm, then the thermal conductivity resistance will be: R = 0.5 / 0.47 = 1.06 m 2 ° C / W.
2. Now we can compare this indicator with the normalized one. For example, the heat transfer resistance for building envelopes in Moscow and the region should be at least 3.15 - the difference is 2.09. It needs to be filled with insulation, since the thermal conductivity of the structure consists of the sum of the coefficients of its layers.
3. The required thickness of the insulation is calculated by the formula D = L·R. For example, if we want to use polystyrene foam (L = 0.042), then we need D = 0.042 2.09 = 0.087 - an 87 mm foam layer. Naturally, it is better to overestimate the minimum values ​​​​and apply 100 mm of expanded polystyrene, then there is a chance to transfer the dew point inside the layer of completely waterproof insulation.

Summing up

Wall insulation from the inside is an extreme measure in a situation where there is no way to fix a heat insulator from the side of the facade. Properly performing such work is technologically quite difficult. Internal insulation is not as cheap as it seems at first glance, so it will most likely not be possible to save significantly.

It is possible to formulate the basic requirements for high-quality wall insulation from the inside:

1. It is necessary to organize a hermetic vapor barrier of the wall.
2. The thickness of the insulation must not be less than the calculated one in order to ensure the normalized thermal conductivity of the building envelope for a certain climatic zone.
3. Be sure to take measures to improve the ventilation of the room.
4. The heat insulator should be glued with a comb or continuous strips.
5. It is also necessary to insulate areas of ceilings and partitions adjacent to the outer walls.
6. It is better to sheathe the outer walls with moisture-resistant drywall on a metal frame.
7. To ensure the tightness of the cladding, do not place sockets, switches, lamps, sconces on it.
8. Adjacencies of sheet materials to the enclosing structures must be sealed with acrylic or silicone.
9. U-shaped brackets are mounted to the base only through insulating gaskets.
10. All work on wall insulation should be carried out after they have been treated with antifungal compounds. The base must be completely dry. Wetting the structure from the outside should be excluded in advance - all roofing, facade and window work must be completed, all systems should function properly.

It should be noted that not always the reason that the room is cold is the poor thermal insulation of the outer walls. It is worth paying close attention to the thermal characteristics of the floor, ceiling, window blocks. Maybe this is where the cause of all the troubles lies, and perhaps the problem is in the incorrect operation of the heating or errors in its design. If this is the case, then even perfectly executed wall insulation will not bring the desired effect, and the temperature in the room will rise only by 1-2 degrees.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

If you want to insulate the house, then any specialist will tell you that it is better to do it outside. However, in some cases it becomes necessary to insulate the walls from the inside, for example, if the facade is already finished or the external insulation is not enough. Therefore, below I will tell you how to insulate the house from the inside so that this event is effective and does not lead to mold and destruction of the walls.

Features of warming the house from the inside

Many people who have not previously encountered insulation are wondering if it is possible to place insulation on interior walls at all? Of course, this is perfectly acceptable, and, if the procedure is performed correctly, the house will become much more comfortable and economical in terms of heating.

• after the installation of the insulation, the walls of the building will no longer be heated, as a result of which there is a possibility of cracks;
• condensation occurs under the insulation;
• the usable area of ​​the premises is reduced;
• there is no way to insulate the ceiling, as a result of which a cold bridge remains.

Therefore resort to this method should be used only in cases where it is really impossible to implement other options for insulation. If, despite these disadvantages, you still decide to carry out insulation from the inside, you must strictly adhere to the technology, which we will discuss below, especially when it comes to wall insulation.

If you insulate an extension, for example, a veranda, you can increase the living space of the house. The only thing before the extension is insulated, you need to eliminate the gaps in the windows and doors.

Warming technology

materials

So, if you take up this work on your own, then the first question that will arise in front of you is the better to insulate the walls inside. The most common are the following materials:

• mineral mats - are an environmentally friendly fireproof material with vapor permeability. The cost of mineral wool is 1500-5000 rubles per cubic meter, depending on the brand and manufacturer;
• expanded polystyrene - has a small weight and costs a little cheaper - its price ranges from 1000-3000 per cubic meter. True, expanded polystyrene is more fire hazardous and does not "breathe", unlike mineral wool, however, with good ventilation, this drawback does not matter.

In a wooden house, it is better, of course, to use mineral wool. If the house is brick, you can also perform insulation with foam.

In addition to insulation, you will also need other materials:

• wooden slats with a section of about 20x20 mm;
• wooden bars or a profile for mounting drywall;
• adjustable brackets;
• vapor barrier film.

It makes sense to insulate the house not only if you will live in it in the winter. If you insulate the garden house from the inside, then in the summer it will become cooler and more comfortable for relaxation. This is especially true of the thermal insulation of the roof, which is heated during the day under the sun.

Floor insulation

It is necessary to carry out insulation from the inside of the house in a complex manner, i.e. in addition to the walls, the floor and ceiling should also be insulated. Therefore, first of all, I will tell you how to carry out this procedure with the floor.

If the floor is wooden, the instructions for warming it are simple:

1. first of all, you need to dismantle the floor and place bars with a section of about 15x15 mm near the lag;
2. then the base is laid on the bars. To do this, you can use thin boards, moreover, they do not have to be fixed to the bars;
3. further, the resulting shields should be covered with a waterproofing film, which must be laid directly on top of the log. At the joints of the canvases, it is necessary to provide an overlap of about 10 cm;

1. after that, a heater is laid on the film, which should fit snugly against the logs, leaving no gaps. I must say that not only polystyrene or glass wool can be used as a heater, but also bulk materials, for example, expanded clay, ecowool or even sawdust;
2. a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation. It also needs to be laid with an overlap, moreover, it is desirable to glue the joints with adhesive tape;
3. after that, you can lay boards on top of the log or other draft material.

Can also be used to insulate a wooden floor natural material- reeds. To perform insulation with reeds with your own hands, you need to stock up on them with the onset of the first frost. Dry the stems well before use.

If the floor is concrete, you can make a dry screed with your own hands. To do this, you must perform the following steps:

1. first of all, a waterproofing film is laid;
2. further, beacons are installed to level the dry surface. As beacons, special aluminum profiles are used, which are laid on lumps of cement. To install beacons, you must use a level so that they are located in the same horizontal plane;

1. a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room, which prevents floor squeaks and other unpleasant moments;
2. after that, expanded clay is poured into the space between the beacons and leveled with a rule or just a board along the beacons;
3. sheets of plywood, chipboard or drywall are laid on top of the expanded clay, on which the finishing floor covering is subsequently placed.

Another floor insulation technology is to pour the screed directly onto the mineral mats. This is done as follows:

1. the base is waterproofed with a film;
2. then mineral mats are laid;
3. then waterproofing spreads over the mats;
4. beacons are mounted on top of the waterproofing and a screed is poured. At the same time, it is desirable to use fiber for reinforcement, and not a metal mesh, so as not to damage the waterproofing film.

On our portal you can find more detailed information about how to install beacons and pour the screed.

Wall insulation

When performing insulation inside the house, special attention must be paid to the thermal insulation of the walls, since the effectiveness of this event largely depends on them. The wall insulation process is as follows:

1. first of all, it is necessary to fix the rails with a section of 20x20 mm on the wall. Most often, the slats are placed horizontally in increments of a meter and a half. To fasten the rails, you can use dowel-nails;
2. then a film is stretched over the rails. I note that it must be precisely stretched so that a ventilation gap forms between the wall and the insulation. The latter is necessary to remove condensate, which will certainly form in winter.
   To fix the film, you can use a construction stapler;
3. further, vertical racks should be attached to the horizontal rails, between which the insulation will be located. The hardest thing to this stage- install the racks correctly so that they are located strictly vertically and in the same plane. It depends on how smooth the walls will turn out.
   The step of the racks is the width of the insulation. Moreover, the latter should go in tightly so that it does not need to be additionally fixed;

1. after mounting the frame, you need to fill the space between the racks with insulation from the floor to the ceiling;
2. after filling the frame with insulation, another layer of vapor barrier film should be fixed on it;

1. at the end of the work, a finishing material is attached to the frame. If you are insulating a suburban wooden house, you can sheathe the walls. If you want to paste wallpaper or use other Decoration Materials, drywall should be used.

If the house is built of CBB, aerated concrete or other material that does not hold ordinary dowel-nails, special butterfly dowels or chemical fasteners should be used.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of thermal insulation of walls. However, the insulation of the house has not yet been completed.

Attic insulation

Finally, I will tell you how to properly insulate the attic. This procedure resembles floor insulation, however, there are some nuances.

I must say that the insulation of the ceiling can be implemented both from the inside with your own hands, and from the side of the attic. From the inside, the work is done as follows:

• you need to start work with attaching a vapor barrier film to the floor beams and attic flooring;
• then a heater is laid in the space between the beams and fixed with slats;
• from below, another layer of vapor barrier is attached to the beams using a construction stapler;
• at the end of the work, the ceiling is hemmed with drywall or other material.

By the same principle, attic insulation is carried out.

I must say that it is very difficult to insulate the ceiling from the inside alone with your own hands. Therefore, to perform this operation, it is better to call an assistant.

Attic insulation from the outside is carried out in the same way as floor insulation. In particular, it is possible to use bulk thermal insulation materials, which are mentioned above.

The heat insulator can also be placed between the floor beams if the house is two-story. This will provide sound insulation.

Here, in fact, are all the main nuances regarding the insulation of the house from the inside. Finally, I note that in order to achieve the maximum effect from insulation, you need to pay attention to windows and doors. If they are poorly sealed, a large amount of heat will escape through the cracks, which can be seen if you look at the house through a thermal imager.

Conclusion

Warming the house from the inside, although it contains a number of disadvantages, nevertheless, allows you to make housing much more comfortable and economical. Moreover, if you do the work yourself, which, as we found out, is completely simple, then this will not entail large financial costs. The only thing, as mentioned above, is to adhere to the technology and perform thermal insulation carefully, without leaving cold bridges.

For more information, see the video in this article. If some points are not completely clear to you or you encounter difficulties in the process of warming your home, leave questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

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