Do-it-yourself heating radiators from plastic pipes. Calculation of the dimensions of the heating battery

Installing a heating radiator with your own hands is a very serious decision. You need to prepare for this so as not to get emergency consequences. In a multi-storey building, it is better to call specialists, otherwise you can flood yourself and your neighbors from below. In the premises of a private house, you can put home-made batteries with my own hands. Making radiators is not a very difficult task.

How to install?

To install radiator heating batteries, you need to know the wiring system. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe. With a one-pipe system, a bypass is required. This is a jumper between the pipes for the direct and return supply of the coolant. This small appliance can be turned off in the event of a malfunction in the system without turning off the entire heating system. To install radiators, you need corners, shut-off valves, nipples and other parts. We need spurs with the same thread as on the heating pipes. Mayevsky cranes are installed on the battery to release air.

The installation of batteries must be carried out in compliance with the following rules:

horizontal elements of the system must have a slope towards the circulation of the coolant by 0.5 cm for each meter of pipe;
the distance from the bottom of the battery to the floor should be at least 6-10 cm;
the same distance should be maintained between the lower part of the window sill and the upper part of the radiator;
from the battery to the wall must be left 3-5 cm.

You need to prepare the following tools:

torque wrench (image No. 1), heating batteries;
sealant, tow, sealing tape, wrenches, gas, adjustable wrenches, pliers (image No. 2), drill or puncher.

Before hanging the battery on the wall, you must drain the water from the system. Unscrew the plugs from the new product (if any). Attach the battery to the system with the use of squeegees. Holes are pre-drilled and brackets screwed in. All joints are sealed with tow or other means.

Batteries are available in stores. different type. You can buy an oil cooler. It is powered by electricity. But you can build a homemade heating radiator with your own hands.

Homemade products

It is best to make a battery out of steel. It heats up quickly, perfectly gives off its heat, overheating does not threaten it. How to make a battery? For its manufacture, you need to take the following materials and tools:

a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, a pipe of 25 mm, sheet steel 3 mm thick, 2 spurs of 25 mm;
welding machine, grinder, tape measure, metalwork hammer, marker for marking.

The manufacture of radiators is a fairly common business. Of such kind homemade appliances have been used for garage heating for a long time. The length of a homemade pipe battery can be different. You can make it equal to or less than the window sill, you can make it the entire length of the wall. The design can be multi-tiered. Most often they make two- and three-tier ones (image No. 3). They are ideal for heating the garage, residential premises. Consider an example of manufacturing a heating device 80 cm long. Work is performed in the following order:

Purchased necessary materials.
Pieces 80 cm long are cut from a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. For trimming, you can use a welding machine or a grinder.
Pieces 100 mm long are cut from a pipe 25 mm thick. For a two-tiered structure, they need 2 pieces, for a three-tiered one - 4, for a four-tiered one - 6 pieces.
Circles with the diameter of the main pipe are cut out of sheet steel.
At a distance of 50 mm from the edges of the large pipe, holes of 25 mm in diameter are cut.
The ends of the pipe are welded with circles cut from sheet steel.
Thick pipes are welded in short thin sections.
on the top and lower tier rungs are welded.

A radiator for heating a garage or a room is ready. It remains to check its tightness. To check, you need to drown out the lower drive and pour water into the battery through the upper one. If there are no smudges on the welds, the work carried out can be considered of high quality. If smudges are found, it is necessary to mark their places with chalk or a marker, drain the water and boil the seam again. Install the battery without smudges in its place. There is no need to install a Mayevsky crane on it. But the pipe should be with a wall thickness of at least 3.5 mm. The welder must have some experience. The surface of the seams is polished with a grinder.

If necessary, increase the heat transfer. Additional screens are cut out of steel 1-2 mm thick and welded into the battery. The more screens, the warmer it will be in the garage or room.

A heating battery made from a large diameter pipe will cost much less if you buy a pipe at a scrap metal collection point. The screen for the heating radiator increases the heat transfer of the device. But you should not use various decorative plastic, wooden or metal gratings. It will be difficult to clean up the dust behind it. The amount of heat coming from the heater will be significantly reduced. It is necessary to take into account the following tips from professional masters:

the coolant should not be hotter than 130°C;
water in the pipes must be in accordance with the regulations;
it is undesirable to keep the batteries empty;
it is impossible to use parts of the heat main as elements of the electrical network.

Despite the fact that there is a large selection of radiators on sale, many people decide to make a heating radiator with their own hands. This is a justified solution, especially if you want, for example, in a garage or other utility room. In such cases, buying store models will be expensive, so homemade radiators heating are an excellent way out.

To independently make such a heater, they usually use metal pipes, which were already in use, so the cost is low, and the efficiency will be practically no worse than factory models. Such a do-it-yourself heating battery is made quite simply, which explains its popularity in organizing heating in production workshops and garages.

The main advantages that a homemade radiator has:

for manufacturing, you can use material that has already been in use;
for work you will need an affordable and simple tool;
installation is simple;
the design will be reliable and will not require special care;
low cost, since you only have to spend your time and labor.

If we talk about steel or cast iron batteries, then their thermal conductivity coefficient will be almost the same. A standard section of cast iron battery gives 150-170 watts of heat and holds 1.5 liters of water.

Depending on the thickness of the pipe you will be using to replace one standard cast iron radiator, you will need about 20 m of pipe. To reduce the size of this design, the pipe is divided into several sections, which are parallel to each other.

The disadvantage of a battery made from a pipe is that it has a low efficiency, this is due to the smallest external surface area. To eliminate this shortcoming, it is necessary to increase the length of the registers, and this is limited by the length of the garage or other premises.

To reduce the length of the battery, the registers are placed in parallel to each other, while they are connected in series. After the coolant, and it can be water or oil, enters the first pipe, it passes through the bypass channel into the second, but moves in the opposite direction.

Necessary materials and equipment

Since home-made heating systems are most often made from material that has already been in use, you first need to assess the condition of the pipes, pay special attention to the wall thickness. The manufacture of radiators for the utility room of an apartment or garage must be of high quality, since in such systems the pressure can reach several atmospheres. If the pipe wall is severely damaged by corrosion, then it simply will not withstand the load and will burst, which will lead to leakage of the coolant and stop the heating system.

Most often, for the manufacture of home-made batteries, pipes with a diameter of 10-12 cm are used; in order to drown out the ends of the pipes, sheet metal of the appropriate size is used.

For the manufacture of bypass channels and fittings, pipes of smaller diameter are used so that they can be connected to the heating system, threads are made on the fittings.

You can make a portable oil cooler with your own hands, such models are created from pipes, they are small in size, they use oil as a coolant, and heating elements instead of heating elements. Depending on the volume of the room you plan to heat with such a heater, take a heating element of the appropriate power.

In order to improve such a device in its electrical network you can enter a thermostat that will periodically turn the heating element on and off.

Manufacturing of registers

First, the material is prepared, which is cut into segments of the required length, while cutting must be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe. To get an accurate cut line, you can wrap a sheet of paper around the pipe and at the same time connect its edges.

To create a plug at the ends, it is necessary to use sheet metal, the thickness of which is not less than 3.5 mm. The plug diameter must be 5 mm larger than the pipe diameter. It is necessary to weld the plug qualitatively and tightly.

A hole for installing a bypass valve is made on the side surface, before stepping back a short distance from the edge. Then the pipes are connected into separate sections. To perform welding work, you must be highly qualified, if you cook poorly, then it is better to invite a specialist for this.

After assembling the battery, it is connected to the heating system, which is filled with water, antifreeze, then its performance is checked, and there are no coolant leaks. If the system provides for the use of a pump, then it is turned on to create pressure. If the test was successful, you can safely use the heating system with homemade registers.

If you are installing such registers in a residential area, it is best to use an additional screen for a heating radiator. It is made in the form of a lattice, which is most often made of MDF. Such a grill allows you to hide the battery, but allows air to move freely and practically does not affect the quality of heating the room. Making a radiator grill with your own hands is a simple process available to any home craftsman.

It is now popular to use baseboard heaters or a vacuum radiator in the heating system, but it is very difficult to make them yourself at home, as this requires special equipment and skills.

To create a vacuum radiator, lithium-bromide liquid is also needed, the boiling point of which is 35 ° C, it is pumped into registers, and it is impossible to do this at home.

Heating devices are an indispensable element of any water heating system. They are usually the most expensive part. A good opportunity for savings can be the use of homemade radiators. They are made from smooth steel pipes of round section or from shaped pipes. The latter option is somewhat more expensive, but allows you to reduce the depth of the device and get a more aesthetic appearance.

Usage profile pipe for the manufacture of heating registers has a number of features. Getting started with your own hands or deciding to buy a "homemade", you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons. Studying the basic rules by which heating registers are made from a profile pipe will help to avoid mistakes when independent work and will make it possible to make a competent choice of the necessary parameters.

Design of heating registers

Heating devices in the form of registers are a structure of several vertical or horizontal pipelines interconnected by means of jumpers. In this case, the connecting elements can have a different shape and size. They are classified according to their location.

The structure of the register

For the manufacture of heating registers, smooth carbon steel pipes with a round section, as well as square and rectangular ones, are used. Their combined use is possible. Stainless and galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, brass can also be good materials for registers, but they are much more expensive and more difficult to do it yourself.

The simplest in execution are heating registers made of a steel profile pipe. They can be performed in two main configurations: sectional type and serpentine (S-shaped).

In a sectional type register, several sections of profiled rolled metal with plugged ends are arranged in parallel and are connected to each other by round tubes of a smaller cross section. Jumpers provide filling of rows of the device with heat carrier from two sides at the same time. At the same time, the closer the adapter pipes are installed to the edge, the higher the heat transfer of the device.

In the serpentine register, the liquid passes in an S-shape through the rows of shaped pipes, gradually cooling down. To give the structure rigidity, additional deaf jumpers are used. Horizontal rows are connected in pairs by a snake using tubes of a smaller section, as in sectional models, or segments of the main profile. The latter option is preferable because of the lower hydraulic resistance and greater heat transfer.

Connecting pipes are made with threads or for welding. The most effective option for connecting a heater is a top-down scheme. For low models and in the case of forced circulation of the coolant, entry and exit from below may be justified.

The design of the register necessarily provides for a Mayevsky crane or an automatic air vent. It is located at the end of the top row on a threaded fitting to enable replacement. A prerequisite for installation is the observance of a slope of 0.05% in the direction of the movement of the coolant.

Registers are both stationary and portable. The former work as elements common system heating, the latter perform the task of local heating. The heat source for a separate mobile register is a heating element with a power of 1.5-6 W, built into the housing.

Important! The distance between the rows of the register significantly affects the heat transfer. The closer the pipes are to each other, the greater their mutual influence, which reduces the efficiency of the device. It is recommended to place the rows at a distance not less than the height of the profile pipe, increased by 50 mm.

In addition to large horizontal registers, small vertical models are also in demand. With careful work, you can get home-made cheap radiators from shaped pipes, almost as good as modern sectional radiators in terms of aesthetics.

In some cases, steel registers can be a good addition to the heaters already installed in the room. Despite lower heat dissipation than similarly sized radiators, their use may be more appropriate due to their lower cost.

Tall vertical registers are very convenient for high rooms or near high window openings. They can successfully fit into the interiors of rooms with unusual design solutions. With a little experimenting with color and shape, you can get a creative decoration from simple heating devices.

Advantages and disadvantages of a profile pipe

Most often, heating registers are made from smooth round-section water and gas pipes. They are cheaper, have better hydraulic characteristics for transporting the coolant, greater tensile strength with a small wall thickness. What caused the use of profile pipes for the manufacture of registers?

Heating radiators made of rolled metal of square and rectangular cross section have a number of important advantages:

compactness of the device in depth;
the ability to give an attractive appearance;
the surface area is larger than that of a round pipe of the same height;
additional opportunities for creative design non-standard premises;
relatively easy to make with your own hands, do not spin during operation;
can be made from pipe scraps left after construction work.

However, there are also disadvantages:

the profile pipe is not intended for liquid transportation;
lower resistance to water hammer and high pressure;
Welds are longer than comparable round tube registers, increasing the chance of leakage and reducing the overall reliability of the instrument.

Thus, before making a decision on the advisability of using registers from profile pipes, all possible options should be evaluated, the operating conditions and requirements to be met by heaters in each specific case should be carefully analyzed.

Choice of options

The parameters of the heating register are determined on the basis of the required heat output. The most accurate values are given by a detailed thermotechnical calculation of heat losses through building envelopes, but since it is rather laborious, we will consider alternative options.

Very approximately for a typical insulated room with a height of not more than 3 m, 1 kW of heat output per 10 m 2 can be taken. More accurate values can be determined from the table below, depending on the quality of thermal insulation and the volume of the room.

Heat dissipation 1 m.p. profile pipe is determined by the formula:

Q=K F ∆t,

K- heat transfer coefficient, W / (m 2 0 C), for single pipe K= 11.3 W/( m 2 0 С);

F is the surface area of the pipe, m 2, F \u003d 2 (a+b) l,

where a and b are the dimensions of the sides of the cross section, and l- pipe length, respectively, m;

∆t- temperature difference, 0 C, ∆t \u003d 0.5 (t 1 + t 2) - t to,

where t1 and t2– temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet of the device; t to- the temperature in the room.

The required pipe length is calculated by dividing the required heat output by the heat output of 1 m of pipe. The number of rows is determined with rounding up and is determined by the availability of free space and the configuration of the room. For the obtained number, the value of heat transfer is specified taking into account the mutual irradiation of pipes using a reduction factor of 0.9 for each row.

The length of the register can be taken constructively, taking into account the characteristics of the room and the location of the equipment. For example, if there is a large window, then it is desirable that the length of the threads be at least the size of the window, creating a wide thermal curtain for cold air.

Advice! In some cases, it makes sense to take the length of the register across the entire width of the room. This will ensure the most uniform heating of the room. For objects such as greenhouses, this is especially important.

The section of the profile pipe is taken either on the basis of the available material, or is selected by trial calculations and finding the optimal combination of the section and length of the rows of the heating register. The most commonly used pipes are 60 * 40, 60 * 60 and 80 * 60 with a wall thickness of 3 mm. Large sections are not desirable, since an increased volume of coolant will create an additional load on the boiler.

On a note: Don't skimp on wall thickness. The thicker the wall of the pipe, the longer the heater will last. It will be able to withstand large pressure surges and is more resistant to corrosion.

Based on the calculations, the final selection of the parameters of the heating register is carried out and a drawing is drawn up. According to the accepted dimensions, a heating device is ordered or the register is made by hand.

Making registers with your own hands

Steel registers are fairly simple in construction and do not require much skill to build. Almost anyone with experience with a welding machine can make home-made heating radiators from a profile pipe. Unlike round ones, they are easy to fix in place, which makes it easier to carry out welding work.

Necessary materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to stock up on everything you need. Let us consider in detail what is required for the simplest three-row register.

Materials:

Profile pipe in accordance with the design parameters. Dimensions can be from 30x30x3 to 80x80x3 mm.
Round pipe with the same wall thickness with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm, depending on the section of the profile pipe.
Steel sheet 3 mm thick.
Branch pipes with external or internal thread in accordance with the diameter and type of connection - 2 pcs.
Steel coupling with an internal thread with a diameter of 15 mm and a Mayevsky crane.

Tools:

Welding machine.
Drill.
Bulgarian.
A hammer.
Marker or metal rod.
Roulette.

Material preparation:

The profile pipe is cut into pieces of the required length in accordance with the drawing.
The round pipe is cut into 4 pieces of 10 cm.
From sheet metal 6 plugs are cut out in accordance with the size and shape of the profile pipe. They should be 3-5 mm smaller than the pipe section. This will neatly hide the weld in the gap.
The pipes are laid on a flat horizontal surface strictly parallel at a distance of 10 cm. Two wooden beams can be used for support. The ends are set in one line. Marks are made for holes at a distance of about 5-10 cm from the edge.
Using a cutter or drill, the marked holes are cut in accordance with the diameter of the jumpers.

Work order

The jumpers are fixed in place and tacked by welding at 2-3 points.
Having placed the structure vertically, the jumpers are finally welded. It is recommended that you first make a thin seam at a low current, which will allow you to fill the gaps well. Next, a thick main seam is performed at increased current.
The internal space of the register is cleaned from metal debris and slag.
Plugs are applied, tacked and welded to the ends of the profile pipes.
Welds are processed. The protruding parts are knocked down with a hammer, then each seam is cleaned with a grinder.
Holes in the register are drilled depending on the selected connection scheme. At the same time, it is better to place them not in the center of the ends, but slightly higher or lower.
Connecting pipes are welded to the holes.
The seams are cleaned and all holes except one are muffled. The register is filled with pressurized water and the welding quality is checked. Seams must withstand pressure up to 13 atm.
The outer surface is cleaned, degreased and painted with heat-resistant paint.
A fitting is welded to the top row and a Mayevsky crane is installed.

Sometimes supports are welded to the register, but devices without them are more versatile. If necessary, you can always use the stand, but the weight is less and the possibility of mounting on the wall remains.

Conclusion

Homemade radiators from a profile pipe are well suited for heating large rooms. It is convenient to use mains-powered devices at objects of periodic use: construction sites, garages, workshops, cottages. Stationary registers are used in production shops, greenhouses, warehouses and other technical facilities.

They have a fairly simple design, which ensures relative ease of manufacture. This allows you to make steel registers with your own hands, which gives significant cost savings. If you wish, you can be more sophisticated and create analogues of modern design models, which can become not only effective sources of heat, but also an interior decoration.

Despite the huge selection of radiators on sale, there are those who want to manufacture heating appliances with their own hands. Homemade heating radiators from pipes are used in summer cottages, garages and small country houses. If you carefully work on the finish, you will get a beautiful designer item that is not ashamed to decorate even a civilized home. What is needed for work, how to weld a high-quality tubular battery, and is it worth doing this at all?

DIY batteries: the truth without embellishment

Modern radiators are complex technical devices that work simultaneously on the principle of radiation and convection. Manufacturers take into account many factors when creating batteries and use new technologies in the production process that increase the efficiency of the heating system and reduce the volume and temperature of the coolant. Of course, the factory device will always work more efficiently than home-made home-made and will surpass it in compactness and design.

The simplest homemade radiator of two pipes

It is advisable to make heating appliances on your own only if you have free or inexpensive pipes, a welding machine, a tool for cutting metal (grinder) and skills in working with equipment.

Important! The slightest mistake is fraught with leaks and serious emergencies. It is not recommended to install home-made appliances in apartments - they are more suitable for spacious rooms and outbuildings.

Types of homemade heating radiators

At home, the easiest way to make a heating register is a device consisting of one or more pipes welded into a single structure. The principle of operation of the device is the same as that of cast-iron batteries - the coolant circulating inside heats the metal, and the heat emanating from it heats the air.

Registers are suitable for use in one-pipe and two-pipe systems, wall and floor installation. The simplest examples of this group of heaters can be found in the bathrooms of old houses, where they function as heated towel rails.

Homemade registers are divided into two main types: sectional and coil. Sectional devices are a structure of pipes of different diameters, in which elements of a larger diameter are parallel to each other, have plugs at the ends and are interconnected by tubes with a smaller diameter.

Connecting pipes should preferably be located as close to the edges as possible. For structural strength, additional jumpers are used - they increase the heat transfer of the device, as they increase the heating area.

The movement of the coolant in this design always begins with a tank located above the others, then the water passes through the pipe to the bottom row, flows along the entire length and enters the next element. It is important to ensure the strength of the welds - they must withstand a pressure of at least 13 atmospheres.

The coils are S-shaped and are assembled from elements welded in series. This design is more efficient, since the entire surface of the pipe is involved in heat transfer. There are no intermediate constrictions in the coil, so the hydraulic resistance is always less than in the sectional register.

How to make a radiator from pipes with your own hands

To make a homemade radiator, you need to be able to work with a welding machine and have the skills to “handle” an angle grinder. It is important to correctly determine the size of the heat source - for this you need to calculate the required power.

Battery Power Calculation

The power of a radiator for liquid heating depends on the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe device and the thermal conductivity of the material. Special formulas are used to calculate power, but it is not easy for a non-specialist to navigate complex equations. If you plan to heat outbuildings where exact values \u200b\u200bare not needed, you can take a cast-iron battery as a basis.

For example, the power of one section of a cast-iron radiator is 160 W, and its volume is 1.45 liters. To replace a standard 10-section cast iron appliance with a pipe heater, you need the number of pipes that can hold 14.5 liters of liquid.

According to the norms, in residential buildings for each square meter the room requires 1 kW of power of the heater. Increase this value when calculating the system in houses with poor thermal insulation.

Necessary materials

In order not to run around in search of the missing little things, it is advisable to immediately prepare all the necessary materials and tools. For a homemade radiator with a volume of 14.5 liters, you will need:

carbon steel pipe about 2 meters long and 10-12 cm in diameter with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm;
steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm for end caps;
water pipe for throughput channels;
two drives with a diameter of 2.5 cm;
reinforcement to increase rigidity;
threaded connections for tapping into the system.

It's cheaper to buy materials at scrap yards, but for a permanent home, it's better to opt for new smooth steel pipes. It makes no sense to take pipes with a diameter of more than 12 cm for registers - this will increase the volume of the coolant, increase the load on the boiler and the current heating costs.

Manufacturing technology

A two-meter steel pipe is cut into three identical parts and two holes are cut in each of the parts for connecting the throughput tubes. The holes should be at a distance of 5 cm from the end and located at different ends at an angle of 180 degrees relative to each other.

At the next stage, round blanks are cut out of steel sheets to close the ends. The diameter of the covers must match the size of the pipe holes. Plugs are welded to the ends, closing the elements for the registers.

Pipes for supplying the coolant are welded to the holes, getting a kennel for the movement of hot water. To give the structure strength, the pipes are interconnected with reinforcement. In large registers, additional safety jumpers are provided. It is important that the distance between the sections is 0.5 cm greater than the diameter of the main pipe.

After completion of welding work, home-made pipe radiators must be checked for strength. Before testing, the lower hole is closed, and water is supplied to the upper one under pressure, completely filling the device. If there are no leaks, the battery is installed in the system. For floor mounting, legs are welded or brackets are provided. AT heating systems with natural circulation, the registers are installed with a slight slope in the direction of the coolant.

Similarly, a bathroom radiator is made in the form of a coil or ladder. For a heated towel rail, it makes no sense to take pipes with a large diameter - the more crossbars are planned, the smaller the pipe girth should be. If you take copper pipes instead of steel pipes, you get a durable and practical device.

If you have never used a welding machine, we strongly do not recommend learning this difficult task on heating devices. Even if you really want to install homemade radiators at home, it is better to entrust their welding to a specialist.

Video: do-it-yourself heating

Starting the construction of a house, a good owner provides for expenses not only for the actual construction, but also for communications. Costs can be somewhat reduced if you make some of the heating equipment yourself, fortunately, the necessary materials can be found not only in hardware stores, but even in your own shed or in a landfill. Do-it-yourself heating radiators are a laborious, but quite affordable business, which you will learn about from our article.

Where will he stand?

Before you make a heating radiator with your own hands, think about where it will be located. Such a unit can heat a room very well, but it is quite difficult to make it an interior decoration. However, it all depends on the style, and it is possible that you can install your creation even in the living room.

However, most often such products can be seen in the premises of workshops or warehouses, that is, where a particularly spectacular design is not needed.

Important! If you are going to make several batteries, start with those that will heat the basement or corridor, see what you get, and only then decide if they are needed in other rooms.

Pros of homemade radiators

The main advantage of a homemade battery is the extremely low price, despite the fact that it is a complete and very efficient unit. They are made from wide pipes. They can:

interconnected by jumpers;
made from bent pipes.

If we talk about other advantages, they are as follows:

you can use pipes that have already been in use;
the design allows such devices to work in systems with both natural and forced circulation;
if you put a heating element and a thermostat, the unit will be able to work autonomously.

Flaws

Before deciding to do something, you need to learn as much as possible about the shortcomings of your future creation:

To make such a thing, you need to have a welding machine and be able to work with it.
It is necessary to pay special attention to the quality of the welds - they must be very reliable, because the coolant is supplied to the radiator under high pressure.
Compared to industrially manufactured radiators, homemade heat transfer is quite low.
Homemade radiators can only be used in a private house; they cannot be placed in apartments.

Therefore, it makes sense to start such a business only if the owners of the future house are very limited in funds. A good reason to start making batteries if you can get the materials for free or at an extremely low price.

Important! Home-made batteries do not meet the safety requirements that heating devices in urban high-rise buildings must meet.

Heating register

The simplest version of a homemade battery is a heating register. The unit is made from several pipes welded together. The radiator works in the same way as the most common central heating battery:

Pipes are filled with coolant.
The coolant heats up the metal.
From the heated metal, heat spreads throughout the room.

Heating registers can be:

single-pipe;
from multiple pipes.

According to the installation method, they are divided into two types:

wall;
floor.

Important! Similar designs were placed in the bathrooms of old houses - once towel warmers looked like this.

Bent and sectional

Heating registers that you can do yourself are of two types:

bent, or serpentine;
sectional.

Sectional radiators

From the name it follows that the unit consists of several sections. It is made of wide pipes, which are arranged in parallel. Plugs are placed at the ends. Sections connected over thin tubes. The coolant enters and exits through the nozzles - they should be at the edges.

To prevent the structure from falling apart at the slightest touch, the pipes are connected by jumpers. They are also needed for another purpose - to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated metal, and, accordingly, to increase heat transfer. First, the coolant enters the pipe at the top, then through the nozzle enters the compartment, which is at a lower level, then fills all the pipes and goes to the next section.

Important! The system must withstand a pressure of 13 atmospheres.

coils

Bent structures are somewhat simpler than sectional ones. You have seen them many times - these are the very modern heated towel rails, which are mostly installed in the bathrooms of new houses.

Serpentine radiators have a lot of advantages over sectional ones:

simplicity and strength of design;
comparative ease of installation, if it is possible to get bent pipes;
greater efficiency, since there is practically no hydraulic resistance.

Important! The coil is made of straight and curved pipes of the same diameter. Hot water moves through them without any obstacles. To increase the strength of the structure, put jumpers from the reinforcement.

Calculate the radiator

What size will your sectional heating radiator be? It depends, first of all, on the size of the room, as well as the length of the sections. In many industrial premises, you can see pipes running the entire length of the wall - there may be only two of them. If you want the battery to take up less space, you can make it from more short pipes.

Jumpers are placed near the ends so that there is no interference with the free movement of the coolant.

Important! You should not use pipes of different diameters for sections - there will be hydraulic resistance, which will certainly affect the strength of the structure.

Making a radiator

Have you already decided on the design and weighed all the pros and cons? Fabulous! Everything is quite simple with the coil, so let's try to make a do-it-yourself sectional heating radiator for a large room. For example, you can build a battery 3 m wide in a four-pipe design.

You will need:

pipe 110-120 mm - 12 m (4 pieces of 3 m each);
sheet stainless steel for plugs;
metal water pipe - jumpers will be made from it;
building fittings;
threaded fittings.

Of course, such a structure cannot be assembled with bare hands - tools are needed. The set is small but serious:

Bulgarian;
angle grinder;
welding machine (whether it is gas or electric - it does not matter).

If everything is ready, you can start assembling the heating radiator with your own hands:

Cut pieces of pipe to the desired length.
Grind the ends with a grinder so that the cuts are even.
Cut the water pipe into pieces 5-10 mm longer than the diameter of the jumper section, process it too.
Cut out round plugs from sheet stainless steel - there should be 8 of them.
Mark places for jumpers on wide pipes - the more there are, the stronger and more efficient the radiator will be, however, only on condition that the seams are of high quality.
Cut holes.
Weld jumpers.
Weld a few more rebar jumpers to make the structure more reliable.
When the main part of the battery is assembled, weld the plugs.
Trim the plugs by cutting off excess metal.

Fitting installation

Insert fittings into two end caps:

Determine how coolant will flow into your battery.
Select a fitting layout.

Depending on how it will move through your system hot water, you can choose one of the following schemes:

lateral;
diagonal;
bottom.

In the first case, the fittings cut into the top and bottom plugs on one side, in the second case, into the top one on one side, and into the bottom one on the other. With the lower type of connection, the nodes cut into two plugs of the section below.

Appearance

After all the nodes are in place, clean up your creation so that it looks decent. It is very useful to paint - this way you will kill three birds with one stone: