Very convenient and multifunctional material for various construction works - oriented strand boards. Since the technology for the production of these boards is not complicated, for interior finishing work, the master can choose a specific option from the four types of OSB boards or consider special types of these boards.

What are the sheets of these products made of? It's simple - wood chips are used (flat fragments are used), shavings: these materials stick together and it turns out really excellent finishing material. Three or four layers of wood chips or shavings - these are the indicators that can be called optimal. Mounting OSB on walls is more preferable than using the same chipboard.

However, oriented strand boards are a kind of modification of wood-fiber material, some of its modern analogue. If finances allow, it is better to choose OSB for facing work (plywood or chipboard is increasingly being abandoned today).

Scope of OSB, classification of plates

Before considering the classification of slabs and deciding what is the best way to finish walls from OSB, it is important to pay attention to the characteristics of such a material.

Types of OSB boards

Here everything is as follows:

• OSB boards of the first class - they are usually chosen for such premises where there is a low level of humidity;
• Type two - the material can be safely chosen for dry rooms, it is even used as a structural element during construction work;
• Type 3 OSB - these plates are used in those rooms where there is a high level of humidity;
• The fourth type of such products is used for cladding structures that are able to cope even with significant mechanical loads. Moreover, we are talking about conditions where the level of humidity is high.

Application area

One thing can be said about the scope of application - the installation of OSB is a really relevant task, since such plates are used in many construction aspects.

It's just that this material has such a manufacturing technology, due to which all internal defects are simply excluded (at the same time, they often appear in chipboard sheets - voids, uneven fillings). Due to all this, OSB is a more preferable option - it does not deform, does not shrink.

And now in detail - Where can this material be used??

1. Often for walls, OSB sheathing is a very profitable solution. Due to this approach, the house receives reliable protection from dampness, while also gaining additional insulation. What is most pleasant here: there is no need for additional finishing work after OSB installation;
2. In the construction of frame-panel houses, OSB slabs are usually used, which have high level moisture resistance;
3. Since the material has such a valuable quality, it makes a decent reusable formwork;
4. It is used as a base when making external wall cladding, as well as during internal works ah - if the decoration of wooden country houses, cottages (from a bar, rounded logs) is carried out;
5. OSB boards are your faithful assistant if you are making a sheathing, roof rafters. This material can work even under serious load - it will definitely withstand the weight of not only the roof itself, but also all related loads (wind, snow) - even if natural tiles are laid on the roof (material that weighs a lot);
6. If you need to level the floors in the house or lay them from scratch - here again you can pay attention to the OSB installation. Just such a plate is ideal for creating a very strong, even base. It is best not to find under plank floorboards, carpets or other coverings;
7. Pay special attention to the process when it is necessary to fit the joints of the plates along the plane. If necessary, they must be equalized - without this in any way.

An interesting point - not every manufacturer can use OSB boards as underlayment layers - in the case of organizing floor coverings. And the laying of the panels is carried out so that the smooth side is located up.

What else does a master need to know?? Following:

• It is not necessary to apply an additional protective coating in the form of paint or varnish on the plates - the material initially has excellent protection in the form of a special impregnation;
• Processing plates is not so difficult - about the same as ordinary wood. Screws, nails on the surface are excellent. OSB boards are not afraid of rotting, fungal influences, the decorative qualities of such material are at their best;
• OSB panels are often used today in furniture production - after all, this is an excellent alternative to natural wood (but in terms of cost - it is significantly more profitable);
• The material does not weigh that much - therefore, it is perfect for finishing, construction, painting work and more.

How to finish your house faster

It is quite logical that any owner wants to move into his house faster - especially if the construction is carried out independently. Private cottages are located separately from neighboring buildings - so in this design you don’t have to worry about neighbors.

Here a well-founded question may arise: maybe not to make a rough sheathing - but immediately fasten the OSB finishing materials directly to the frame racks?

Is such an approach to business allowed, or is it excluded?

If you pay attention to the instructions drawn up by professionals, it will immediately become clear: this cannot be done. There will also be reasons for such a conclusion. Simply, it is important to insulate the house - only in this situation it will be comfortable in it (especially since winters in the Russian Federation are cold - almost throughout the entire territory).

Why are frame cuts required at all - lower and upper? Everything is simple here: they form spatial rigidity - together with the skin. They can also be called mandatory elements, if we consider the design of any frame structure.

A frame that does not have slopes, even with sheathing, will retain its mobility - as in the case when there are any. However, if there is no skin, you can imagine what the consequences could be.

Exterior wall cladding

For rough sheathing, a lot is used today different materials. There is definitely a choice here - everyone will agree with this. Pay attention to at least these options:

• Board;
• OSB boards.

Any of these surfaces needs a fine finish: it can be cladding with plaster - with a mesh or a layer of foam. There is an opinion that even boarding can be left as a fine finish - but in this case it will be necessary to process the wood additionally. Under the boards, hydro-wind protection of the walls is also arranged.

You should consider the following: it is not recommended to finish the frame with a board - without rough, preliminary sheathing of OSB with plates. Otherwise, there is a risk that the boards will unscrew in the fall or spring. In addition, it is important for the spatial rigidity of the frame.

You will get fewer joints due to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bOSB sheets - which cannot be said about working with other materials. OSB trim is usually made with a material whose thickness is 11-13 mm.

Let's take a closer look:

• The OSB plates are fastened to the racks so that there is a joint in the middle. And between the plates there should be a small gap - three to five millimeters is enough;
• The sheet completely overlaps the lower trim;
• The upper harness is closely connected with the number of storeys of the house. It will be hidden entirely - and the edge of the OSB plate will be aligned with the edge of the strapping if the structure has only one floor;
• When the building consists of two floors, the sheet is located as follows: it must go to the racks of both floors at once. But somewhere in the middle of the sheet, the upper trim overlaps. This condition cannot be called mandatory, but if it is met, the rigidity of the structure increases significantly, which benefits the structure;
• Sheathing with OSB boards, when fastening to a window opening in two-story houses, should be done in a single sheet - this is exactly what professionals advise. Then all joints can be moved to adjacent racks outside the opening racks. A window opening is simply cut through in the slab - there is nothing complicated in such work;
• When horizontal or vertical jumpers are made in the frame, a very convenient joining of the plates is obtained. In the event that these jumpers have the same cross section as the racks - and this happens often;
• For fastening, spiral nails are selected. Self-tapping screws are also suitable - 0.5 or 0.45 cm long. You should not refuse combined fasteners (both nails and self-tapping screws) either - such a solution is considered to be of very high quality.

Keep in mind that basic rules for the execution of fastening work must be observed.

Namely:

1. It is customary to fix the finishing of OSB plates in intermediate sections every 300 mm;
2. After 150 mm, fix the places where the plates are joined;
3. After 100 mm, the outer edge must be stitched.

So that a crack does not go through the material due to too zealous fasteners, a distance of 1 cm is maintained from the edge of the plate to the place of fixation (maybe a little less).

• A gap of 4-5 millimeters is left between the plates - so that they do not warp. Fasteners are driven into the rack by 4-5 cm;
• The part of the OSB board that is vulnerable (one might say, this is the “Achilles heel” of the finishing material) is the ends. To ensure the protection of these areas, gaps are provided, which are called expansion gaps (between the girder beam and the top edge, also between the foundation wall and the bottom edge). Here the gap will be 10 mm. And between those plates where the groove-ridge is not available, 3 mm is quite enough;
• To process these expansion gaps, an acrylic-based sealant is used. It is important that he carefully fills all the cavities - and that this work is done evenly;
• Wind protection, waterproofing - all these tasks will be performed by a superdiffusion membrane, which also has the property of vapor permeability (this figure is 750 g / m² or more).

Use polyethylene, various films, glassine - do not recommend the master. It’s just that these materials have a low level of vapor permeability, all excess moisture must be reliably ventilated.

Also, you should know:

1. The superdiffusion membrane is installed depending on what is the rough lining with materials, what is the fine finish. For example, the membrane is often attached close to the insulation - to the racks of the frame;
2. They make a crate (here wooden slats are used, the cross section of which is 2 by 5 or 3 by 5 cm. Thanks to this design, the required gap will be achieved. Then you can already finish the OSB surface with slabs, LSU, DSP or sheathe with boards;
3. From the inside of the room with the help of a film, you can make a vapor barrier of the walls. The material is installed in such a way that it fits snugly enough to the insulation. For fastening, a construction stapler is used. The overlap is done by joining - 150-200 mm, the joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

For such work, you can choose the simplest adhesive tape - there is no need to use construction material. Vapor barrier adhesive tape is also suitable.

• To perform a vapor barrier, foil polyethylene can be used, which will not thicken the wall insulation (basic). Foam material is also often used for this task - this practice is common in our time.

Finishing the structure inside

Which is better: OSB cladding or plasterboard cladding? Many people are unambiguously inclined in favor of option number one - when it comes to interior finishing work in the house. It is quite difficult to keep the frame racks in a completely even state - when work is being done, the same applies to drywall.

It's just that the sheets of this material are softer when compared with osb plates. They will easily repeat all the bumps - so then you have to work hard to get a completely flat surface - more layers for alignment will need to be applied.

OSB board in its structure is an order of magnitude tougher than drywall sheets, so that all flaws can be smoothed out to a certain extent. After that, they begin to carry out work related to the final finishing.

Watch a video about how OSB boards are used for interior decoration. This material will definitely be useful if you do not have much building experience.

OSB-3 boards and roofing

Roofing is a very popular way to use material such as OSB boards. By the way, to cover the roof with OSB-3 slabs, a material thickness of 0.18 cm is enough.

In order:

• Both the castle and the flat edge can have products. The first option is more preferable;
• The distance between the supporting beams should not be more than 609 mm - this applies to both the organization of sloping and flat roofs;
• Are the plates capable of expanding - this has great importance. It is customary to leave a gap for each linear meter: 2 mm is quite enough (believe me, this is enough);
• When laying plates with even edges, the gap is already made a little larger - 3 mm. Leave it around the perimeter of each plate - this is the only way to achieve optimal results;
• To fix the OSB to the roof, nails are chosen. Attached to support posts. There should be a distance between them: 10 cm or even more;
• Finishing OSB boards are attached with nails - they should have a length that exceeds the thickness of the board by two to two and a half times (or even more) - this is quite normal.

If the interior decoration is carried out using OSB panels, the following can be noted here: a slab of polished panels will look better if it is very important in your space appearance. For finishing such plates, it is better not to use ceramic tiles or wallpaper - this is recommended by the manufacturers themselves. And it is best to listen to their opinion!

Multifunctional, convenient materials for many construction works, can be viewed in photos and videos, are oriented strand boards. Simple manufacturing technology allows you to produce osb for interior decoration four types of basic and three special types of plates.
Flat fragments of the geometric shape of wood chips or shavings are glued layer by layer into sheets of products. The optimal number of layers of shavings or chips ranges from three to four.
These boards are better than conventional chipboard, or rather, they are their modified, modern version. If funds allow, and technical tasks require their use, then OSB is preferable to materials such as chipboard or plywood.

Considering the qualifications and deciding how to finish the walls of OSB, attention should be paid to the characteristics of the plates.
So:

• The first class includes OSB boards, characterized by application and use in an environment with low humidity.
• The second type of materials is suitable for use as structural elements in construction in dry rooms.
• The third type of qualification is used for the manufacture of structures in high humidity.
• The fourth type of products is used for the installation of structures that can withstand significant mechanical loads in conditions with high humidity.

OSB boards are widely used in construction. Manufacturing technology eliminates internal defects inherent in chipboard sheets(uneven filling or voids), which does not allow OSB boards to shrink or deform.
So:

• from osb will not only protect the house from dampness and insulate, but also minimize additional finishing work.
• Moisture-resistant OSB board is used in the construction of frame-panel houses.
• Its moisture resistance allows making reusable formwork from this material.
• It is used as a base for external wall cladding and for interior work when finishing country, wooden houses made of logs, timber and cottages.
• The device of the lathing and rafters for the roof is not complete without OSB slabs. They are able to work under significant load and withstand the weight of the roof itself, even from natural tiles, snow, wind.
• Need flooring or leveling? OSB board is again in use, creating an even, solid base for plank floorboards, flooring or carpets.
  Important point- fitting the joints of the plates along the plane, they need to be equalized if necessary.

Attention: Not all OSB boards can be used as underlayment under flooring, and the panels are laid with the smooth side up just before the flooring.

• Additionally, it is not necessary to cover the plates with a protective varnish or paints, because it is sufficiently protected by a special impregnation.
• Processing the plate is no more difficult than processing wood, it holds nails and screws perfectly. OSB boards are not subject to rotting and are not affected by fungus, in addition, they have good decorative qualities.
• OSB panels are successfully used for the production of furniture, being an excellent substitute for arrays. natural wood, but the price of products from osb panels is much lower.
• A fairly small weight of the material is convenient for finishing or painting with your own hands and construction work

How to speed up the home decorating process

The desires of people involved in the construction of their own are understandable, who are eager to move into their own, separate corner from their lovely neighbors. A natural question arises, is it possible not to do a rough sheathing and fix the finishing materials directly on the frame racks?
The instruction of specialists contains recommendations and an explanation of why this should not be done. In order for the house to be warm, it must be insulated.

The upper and lower slopes of the frame, together with the sheathing, form spatial rigidity, and they are indispensable elements in the construction of frame houses. Without cuts, the frame retains its mobility even with sheathing, as well as with cuts, but without sheathing, you can imagine the overall picture of the consequences yourself by turning on your imagination.

Exterior wall cladding

There are quite a lot of materials used for rough sheathing and there are plenty to choose from. Board, LSU, DSP and OSB boards.
All these surfaces require finishing, plaster with a layer of foam or mesh. Some advise to leave the sheathing with a board as a fine finish, but then additional wood processing is required, and even a device for wind and hydroprotection of the walls under the boards.

The area of ​​OSB sheets allows you to get fewer joints than when working with other materials, OSB finishing is used with a thickness of 10-12 mm.
So:

• OSB boards are attached to the posts in such a way that the joint is in the middle and there is a gap of 3-5 mm between them.
• The lower trim is completely covered with a sheet.
• The upper harness is tied to the number of storeys of the house. It is completely hidden and the edge of the OSB board is aligned with the edge of the strapping if the building has one floor.
  With a two-story building, the sheet is positioned so that it goes into the racks of both floors, but the upper trim overlaps with the approximate middle of the sheet. This is not a prerequisite, but when it is performed, the structure acquires additional rigidity.

• Finishing osb slabs when attached to a two-story house, it is better to do it with a whole sheet in order to move the joints beyond the opening racks to adjacent racks. The window opening is cut into the slab.
• Convenient docking of plates is obtained by making additional vertical or horizontal jumpers in the frame with the same section as the racks.
• Fastening is carried out with spiral nails, self-cutting screws 4.5 mm and 50 mm long, combined fastening with self-cutting screws and nails can be used.

The main thing is to follow the basic rules for the production of fasteners:

• At intermediate sections, the finish of osb plates is fixed after 30 cm.
• The joints of the plates are fixed after 15 cm.
• The outer edge is stitched through 10 cm.

Attention: In order not to get a plate cracked from diligent fasteners, the distance from the edge of the product to the place of fixation is 8-10 mm.

• A gap of 3-5 mm is left between the plates so that they do not warp and the fasteners are driven into the rack by 40-50 mm.
• The vulnerable part of the OSB plate or its "Achilles' heel" is located at the ends. To protect them, expansion gaps are provided between the upper edge and the crown beam, the lower and the foundation wall of 1 cm, between the plates, where there is no groove-ridge for connection of 0.3 cm.
  To process expansion gaps, an acrylic sealant is used, which should evenly fill all cavities.
• A super-diffusion membrane with a vapor permeability of 800 g/m² per day or more should perform the function of waterproofing and wind protection in this design. The use of films, polyethylene, glassine is undesirable, due to low vapor permeability, and excess moisture must be vented.
  The superdiffusion membrane is located depending on the rough sewing with materials and the finishing with products. The membrane is attached to the racks of the frame on the insulation closely.
  A crate is arranged with wooden slats 20x50 or 30x50 mm, it allows you to get the necessary clearance, then OSB slabs, DSP, LSU or board are finished.
• The vapor barrier of the walls is carried out with a film from the inside of the room, located close to the insulation, fastened with a construction stapler. Docking is carried out with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.
  Not construction, ordinary adhesive tape is used, but a special double-sided, adhesive tape for vapor barrier.
• Vapor barrier can also be made with foamed, foil polyethylene, which does not thicken the main thermal insulation of the wall.

Interior decoration

How to finish the slab was offended to give preference to drywall for the internal lining of the walls of the house. The dispute is won by the osb plate.
The frame racks are difficult to maintain when working in a perfectly even state and drywall, as a softer material, compared to OSB board, accepts these irregularities and, in order to subsequently obtain an ideal surface, more layers must be applied for leveling. The osb plate is much tougher in structure and allows you to somewhat smooth out the flaws.
Next comes the cleanup.

Roofing with OSB-3 boards

The most common way to use this material in roofing works. Optimal Thickness 18 mm for roof covering with OSB-3 boards.

So:

• Products can have either a flat or a locking edge, it is preferable.
• The distance between the supporting beams should not be more than 610 mm, both when creating flat and sloping roofs.
• The value is the possibility of expanding the plates, therefore, gaps per linear meter of no more than 2 mm are left.
• When laying slabs with even edges, gaps of 3 mm are provided around the perimeter of each slab.
• Fastening is carried out with nails to supporting supports with a distance between them of 100 mm or more.
• Finishing OSB boards is fastened with nails, the length of which should be 2.5 plate thicknesses or a little more.

The requirements for the use of water-based products apply to the interior finishes of OSB panels. A slab of polished panels looks better when the appearance plays a prominent role in the interior.
Manufacturers recommend not to use wallpaper or ceramic tiles for their decoration.

Since the end of the nineties, as a rule, OSB slabs with a thickness of 9-15 mm have been chosen as the cladding of the frame of the house from the outside. And if quite a lot has been written about the OSB panels themselves, then it’s quite difficult for a novice builder to find a description of the frame sheathing technology ....

And the lack of the necessary information, as a rule, leads to errors, such as sheathing the frame with OSB boards end-to-end, choosing the wrong screw pitch for attaching the boards to the frame of the house, etc.

When studying options for wall cladding with OSB slabs in Internet materials and in various forums, a lot of questions arise ...

Here are just a few of the most asked:

• Do I need or not need a gap between the plates?
• Why is there an additional insert from the OSB panel between the first and second floors on one option, and is it absent in the other option?
• How to arrange OSB boards when facing walls? Vertically or horizontally?
• What screw pitch to choose when attaching OSB panels to the frame posts?
• What is the required length of self-tapping screws or nails for attaching OSB sheets?

And so in order: Leave a deformation seam between the OSB panels when sheathing the walls, or fasten them end-to-end?

Let's think... OSB board, like wood, expands or contracts depending on air temperature and humidity. What happens if there is no expansion joint between the panels is easy to understand by looking at Figure 1. Expanding the plates, converge edges and warp, resulting in swollen edges of the panels after the first winter.

The expansion joint becomes especially relevant if the walls are planned to be sheathed not with OSB boards, but with plywood. The width of the expansion joint should be 3-5 mm. In practice, the most convenient expansion joints to form using not spacers between the plates, but by screwing a screw of the required diameter into the rack

For fixing OSB sheets on the frame wall of the house, it is better to use phosphated (black) self-tapping screws 55-70 mm long, and when working with a pneumatic hammer, ( if you think about it, even for a small house or outbuilding the number of nails that will need to be hammered goes into the thousands ... so, such a tool will be extremely useful, since budget models have now appeared on the market) special "ruff" nails with a notch 55-65 mm long are used.

The length of nails or screws is determined by the following factor:

For reliable fixation of sheathing sheets on the walls of the frame of the house, it is necessary that the nail enters at least 40-45 mm into the rack of the frame of the house wall. We add the thickness of the used OSB sheets for sheathing the frame, usually sheets with a thickness of 9-12-15 mm are used, and we get the required length of nails or self-tapping screws in the range of 55-65 mm.

Nails and self-tapping screws are hammered or screwed in at least 10 mm from the edge of the OSB sheet in order to prevent splitting of the sheet edge. The distance between the nails (pitch) along the edge of the sheet is 150 mm, in the center of the sheet 300 mm. (fig.2)

The main options for the location of the plates when sheathing the frame of the walls can be reduced to the three most used:

• vertically fig. 3a
• horizontal fig. 3b
• options with additional inserts fig. 3v

We'll look at these options in more detail next time...

Have you ever wondered why the problem with housing has been solved in America for a long time? It's simple, they massively build prefabricated frame or panel houses, such buildings are cheap, and the time from “beginning to housewarming” is only two weeks. In a similar way, the problem with housing in cities was solved in our country, when panel houses were built in the 60s. But in those days, the state was not engaged in construction in the villages, no one used accelerated technologies for low-rise buildings. Now everyone takes care of their housing on their own, in connection with this, frame and panel houses have become so widespread.

For all performance characteristics frame houses fully meet the most modern requirements. Except one. On TV, we are often shown the consequences of a tornado in the same America, many wooden structures are scattered around, entire cities are wiped off the face of the earth. And all because most of their houses are frame-type, such houses cannot withstand hurricane gusts of wind. But do not worry, we do not have and will not have a tornado, this drawback can be ignored.

Ways of sheathing frame houses

What is a frame house? A frame is assembled from wooden beams, either edged timber from pine and spruce is used, insulation is made, the internal and external surfaces of the walls are sheathed with various materials. For these purposes, drywall, plywood, boards, plastic panels and OSB boards can be used. Here we will stop on the last material (OSB boards). Let's talk about technology, you will get some practical advice on how to perform such work quickly and with minimal financial costs.

Choice of slabs

We recommend working with 12mm thick boards, but you can use thicker or thinner boards. Although we advise you to take our advice: thinner ones are a concern for strength, thicker ones will cost you dearly.

The slabs must be dry, for long-term storage it is necessary to use a canopy. Work should only be carried out in dry weather. The number of plates is determined based on the total area of ​​​​the walls of the building; it is not very difficult to make calculations. However, it must be borne in mind that the amount of unproductive waste will always be at least 10%. The more complex the architectural characteristics of the house, the more waste there will be, keep this in mind when purchasing the material.

General sheathing rules

There are many various options finishing of frame houses, both internal premises and facade walls. We will consider only one of these options - sheathing of external facade walls with OSB boards. How you will sheathe the interior - does not make much difference.

Can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position, leave a gap of 2÷3 mm between the plates. To facilitate the process of setting the gap, you can use a simple device. Find any plastic strip with a similar thickness and use it as a template, after fixing the slab, the strip is removed and used during the fixing of the next slab.

The distance between the stops of the slab should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. This must be borne in mind during the construction of the frame, it is better to use mineral or glass wool as insulation. Fasten the plates with spiral or ordinary nails, self-tapping screws and other hardware. The length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slab, while it should be borne in mind that the nail must enter the body of the timber to a depth of at least 40 mm. It is desirable that the caps of the fasteners have an increased diameter.

Nails should be driven ≈ 30 cm apart, at the joints of the sheets, nails are driven in at a distance of ≈ 15 centimeters. The distance from the edge of the board to the nail must be ≥ 1 cm.

Frame house cladding technology

Initial data - the foundation has already been completed, the lower strapping row has been laid, vertical racks have been mounted at the corners and perimeter of the frame house.

• We recommend starting the installation of the first OSB sheet from the corner of the house. In terms of level, fix it to the corner posts of the house, immediately fix the second sheet to the other side of the corner. During work, carefully check their position with a level. If you make a mistake on the first sheet of a few millimeters, then at the opposite corner your millimeters will turn into centimeters. Correcting such a mistake is very difficult. To fully guarantee the accuracy of the upholstery with sheets of walls, we advise you, as in many cases during construction work, to use strong ropes stretched along the walls. They will help you accurately maintain the parallelism of the sheet installation lines.

• Mount in a circle, leaving space for window and door openings. Do not forget that the sheet must be reinforced around the entire perimeter of the openings; in some cases, additional beams or special load-bearing racks will have to be installed for this purpose.
• Upholstery of the house with slabs from the corner greatly simplifies and speeds up the construction process - there is no need to install longitudinal braces. In the future, these cuts still have to be removed - extra costs time and material. But you can’t do without temporary transverse braces, otherwise the frame will be too unstable.
• To facilitate the process of attaching the OSB () to the bottom harness, we advise you to fix a small bar at the place where two large sheets of OSB fit, after which you can fasten the sheet with screws or nails to vertical racks. If you have problems with horizontality, on some sheets you can “sacrifice” the gap, make it a little larger or completely eliminate it. If this defect is on 3-4 sheets, then you can not be afraid of any deformation due to linear expansion of OSB sheets.
• Work in a circle from bottom to top.

• Install interior load-bearing wall studs only when at least three house frame walls are assembled and sheathed.

Finishing sheets can be done in any way. But we would advise you to additionally protect them with plastic panels or siding - this will significantly increase the life of the entire building.

OSB sheets in a frame house allow you to decorate the outer walls of the house. Outside, OSB sheets are finished with either a ventilated facade, such as siding or plaster.

What thickness sheets to use for outdoor work

OSB sheets have an outer and an inner side. The outer side consists of coarser fibers - it should be screwed in outward.

What membrane is used to cut off moisture

Use a quality waterproof membrane. Better, one that is used under the roof

Groove for thermal expansion of sheets

Leave 3-5mm between sheets as space for expansion

How far to fasten the screws

How to cut the crate profile

Scissors for metal

MASTERMAX 3-ECO membranes

material three-layer waterproofing super-diffusion membrane (PP fleece) MASTERMAX 3 ECO - Masterplast application vapour-permeable underlayment roofing film, secondary protection against moisture and snow, placed directly on thermal insulation density, g/m2 115 g/m2 (±20 g) vapor permeability (Sd), m 0.05 max. pace. use, °C +70

What is expensive waterproofing material used for?

Over time, every material ages. This also applies to waterproofing membranes. To leave the water resistance of the walls of the house from LSTC at the proper level, you should use a high-quality moisture-proof membrane.

Required Tool

• Screwdrivers
• Self-tapping screws with pressure washer
• Steam waterproofing
• waterproofing membrane
• self-tapping screws for metal

What it is

OSB (Orient Strand Board or OSB) is an oriented strand board (OSB) in which each next layer of chips is laid across the previous layer. After that, the layers are glued together with waterproof resins and placed under a press at high temperature. Types of OSB

OSB boards (OSB) were created for use in the construction of low-rise wooden houses in the relatively warm and dry climates of the United States and Canada. This probably explains the fact that in the humid climate of Russia, moisture-resistant sheets of the OSB-3 class are widely used. OSB classification is based on their possible use in construction.

Depending on the production method, moisture resistance and strength, there are four types of OSB.

• OSB-1 - has low mechanical strength and low moisture resistance.
• OSB-2 - has high mechanical strength and low moisture resistance.
• OSB-3 - has high strength and is resistant to moisture.
• OSB-4 is a high-tech type, has increased strength and rigidity, very high moisture resistance.

In addition, OSB is divided according to the type of coating into lacquered and laminated, which are used under the formwork. And also according to the degree of processing - into polished and unpolished.

Imported OSBs are divided into European and North American, depending on what standard they were manufactured to. The American standard is more stringent. This applies to strength requirements, dimensional tolerances, and environmental compliance. However, the water resistance of North American OSB is noticeably inferior to European ones.

Story

OSB was first made in 1982 in North America at one of the woodworking factories. In the USSR, the appearance of OSB dates back to 1986, when a plant for their production was opened in Belarus.

Production technology

For the manufacture of OSB, flat chips up to 180 mm long and 6 to 40 mm wide are used. Chip layers are laid in such a way that the inner layer is laid across the sheet, and the outer layers along the sheet. Usually OSB sheet consists of four layers, which achieves greater rigidity and reduces the ductility of the finished sheet. To increase the protective properties of the sheet, synthetic wax and a boric acid salt are added to the adhesive resin. Then, during the process of heat treatment at high temperature and subsequent hot pressing, the finished sheet is obtained from the chips. Properties

The main properties of the OSB sheet are strength, rigidity, low specific gravity, ease of processing.

OSB satisfies all the requirements for wood boards, but at the same time has the quality characteristics of wood. At the same time, OSB, unlike wood and plywood, is not subject to rotting, delamination and warping. In addition, they are not hygroscopic and are not affected by insects.

At present, thanks to a radical improvement in the quality of adhesive resins, it has been possible to establish the production of environmentally clean sheets OSB.

Advantages of OSB board

• The obvious advantages include their resistance to moisture and increased strength, as well as a small specific gravity.
• OSB processing is not difficult. They are easily drilled, planed and sawn.
• The OSB sheet securely holds the fasteners. These indicators are more than twice as high as those of chipboard.
• Application The use of OSB is due to their properties.
• They are used for wall cladding, and with any kind of external coatings.
• They also make a continuous crate under the roof from OSB, regardless of its type.
• In addition, OSB is widely used for the assembly of subfloors and flooring, and is also used as supporting surfaces.
• Load-bearing structures are made from OSB sheets in wooden housing construction, as well as removable formwork in the production of concrete work.
• High-quality packaging and sandwich panels are produced from OSB.

OSB processing

• OSB is processed in the same way as a massive tree. In this case, it is desirable to use milling cutters, saws and drills with hard alloy nozzles. In this case, the feed rate should be somewhat lower than that used for processing solid wood.
• Sheets should be supported to avoid vibration during processing.
• It is possible to cut OSB both on stationary machines and with the help of hand tools.
• Plates, during processing, to reduce vibration, it is desirable to fix.

Fastening OSB occurs, in general, in the same way as fastening solid wood products, with screws, nails and staples. To increase the strength of the connection, ring and spiral nails are used. Smooth nails are not recommended.

When installing load-bearing structures, fasteners made of stainless materials should be used.

Since, with a change in humidity in the OSB, changes in volumetric characteristics may occur, safety gaps should be left between the OSB sheets, which will protect them from deformation.

Features of the use of OSB, OSB

OSB slab, according to technology, should be transported and stored in such a way as to avoid damage during installation. For storage of Osb, it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation. It is also possible to store Osb under a canopy so that they are not exposed to the risk of precipitation. In case of impossibility of storage, laying of Osb slabs according to the technology under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare for laying a flat horizontal surface in the form of a platform and ensure isolation from the ground. Wrap the pallet with a film, cover with a tarpaulin or in some other way protect it from moisture, while at the same time allowing air to enter the plate. Possible options for protection technology and pallet stacking are shown in the figures.

Osb floor installation technology

Osb with straight edges should be connected according to the technology on the floor logs, observing a temperature gap of at least 3 mm around the plate. When installing an Osb floor between walls or in the case of "floating floors", a gap of 12 mm must be left between the Osb and the wall according to the laying technology. The slabs must be laid on the floor with the main axis perpendicular to the joists. The connection of the short edges of Osb according to technology should always be on the logs. Long edges not laid on joists should have a tongue-and-groove profile, an appropriate support or connecting brace. If the room where the flooring is being laid does not have a roof, then during precipitation, drainage should be provided.

OSB or OSB (oriented strand board) is a relatively new building material that has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction is great, with the insulation of standard houses. Especially often, with the help of OSB, floor surfaces are formed and leveled. Today we will talk about how to do this correctly.

Types of OSB boards and their characteristics

OSB - boards consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. Its gluing is carried out in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives the OSB strength, allows you to firmly hold the fasteners.

The following types of OSB are used in construction:

• OSB-2 - panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
• OSB-3 is a versatile material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
• OSB-4 - the most durable and moisture resistant plates. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions of high humidity.

For the construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and the movement of people.

When leveling small floor defects, it is enough to use OSB boards with a thickness of 10 mm. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require a material of 10-15 mm. If it is necessary to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

OSB boards are used as an even and solid base for various modern coatings- parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand board are:

• Creating a floor surface. OSB is a popular material for creating a subfloor on logs. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both on the upper side of the log and on the lower side.
• Surface leveling. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create a completely flat surface suitable for laying a finishing coat.
• Floor insulation. OSB board is 90% natural wood chips with high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, the OSB floor does not allow heat to escape and keeps it indoors.
• Noise isolation. The multi-layer dense structure of the OSB reliably absorbs any kind of noise.

Consider several popular technologies for laying OSB on different bases.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling the concrete base with OSB slabs. Work is carried out according to this scheme.

Debris is swept from the concrete base, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the mounting adhesive. The base is covered with a primer. This also contributes to better adhesion of the adhesive to the base. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to “dust” during operation.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is performed with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw. On the wrong side of the OSB, a rubber-based parquet adhesive is applied, using a notched trowel for uniform application. Glue the sheets to the concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with driven dowels. For guaranteed retention, the dowels are driven around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is even, the installation is carried out in a dry living room, then it is enough to fix the dowels at the corners of each plate mandatory application quality glue!).

When laying between the plates, expansion joints with a thickness of 3 mm are left. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity expansions (bulges) of the OSB during operation.

At the last stage of work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled mounting foam. Its drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that protrudes beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Installation of OSB boards on boardwalk

Laying OSB on an old wooden floor helps to level the surface and prepare it for the installation of the finish coat. Installation is carried out in this way:

1. To begin with, with the help of a level or a rule, the localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) of the boardwalk is determined.
2. Boards that “walk” or rise too high above the general level are attracted to the joists with dowels, sinking them into the material. In some cases, to eliminate the creaking and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be sorted out with the replacement (repair) of the lag.
3. They clean the influxes of paint from the flooring, bloating and protrusions are washed with a grinder or emery cloth.
4. OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with the seams of each next row shifted. Cross-shaped joints should not be! Dilatation gaps are provided (between the plates - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
5. Holes are drilled in the plates. Their diameter should match the diameter of the wood screws that were selected to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the plates every 20-30 cm, countersinking is performed under the caps of the self-tapping screws.
6. Self-tapping wood screws attract the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is at least 45 mm.
7. If you want to make the floor more durable, mount the second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
8. Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with mounting foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

Laying OSB on logs on a concrete base

In the presence of a concrete base (for example, floor slabs), the installation of a log and sheathing them with OSB sheets allows you to create a flat floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also to fit insulating, moisture and noise insulating materials into the structure.

Consider the technology of creating an OSB floor on logs on an existing concrete base. Logs (wooden bars) are fixed to the concrete floor with dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the lags, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the pitch is 40 mm, then the minimum OSB thickness is 15-18 mm, if the pitch is 50 cm - the thickness is 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.

Thanks to the lags, space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be put to good use by laying insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a heat insulator can be laid between the joists: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, XPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the ceiling, the floor structure is supplemented with vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB boards are laid across the log. The seams between adjacent plates (in width) should go strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm - between the plates, 12 mm - between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the lags with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). Step of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets - 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports - 30 mm. Nails (or self-tapping screws) fixing the plates along the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fasteners are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fasten OSB boards on logs in an ordinary city apartment, see the video:

Creating a subfloor from OSB on logs

OSB laying on wooden logs - simplest way get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate with the existing columnar, pile, pile-screw foundation. Work order:

1. Logs are mounted on the foundation. The step of the lag should correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the step, the greater the thickness).
2. Perform a rough floor roll. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the lag, OSB boards are laid and fixed on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing preparations, for example, bituminous mastic.
3. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the OSB.
4. Thermal insulation material is laid, for example, foam plastic, mineral wool boards, ecowool, etc.
5. Close the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on logs on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

At this point, the work process is considered completed.

OSB processing for different finishes

A strong, hard and even surface makes OSB a universal base for all modern floor finishes. How to cover the floor from OSB? Here are some popular solutions:

• Lacquer or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which will only require decorative finishing with paints and varnishes. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation, it is enough to clean them of dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
• Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying rolled materials, it is necessary to ensure that the joints between OSB boards are flush with the rest of the surface. It is desirable to remove all irregularities with sanding paper. Expansion gaps - fill with elastic sealant.
• Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the base of the OSB, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this, lags are placed more often than required by the thickness of the sheets. The step between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued to the OSB using a special adhesive suitable for wooden surface and tiles used.
• Laminate- topcoat, which is fixed in a "floating" way, without rigid fastening of the lamellas. This coating is quite rigid, so it is not necessary to prepare OSB for laying laminate. Minor irregularities that may be at the joints of the plates are leveled by the substrate.

What exactly to choose - it's up to you.

Using OSB makes it possible to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on the logs. The OSB surface will not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, coating with moisture-resistant compounds. This is an excellent choice for those who want to create a quality floor with minimal effort.

Orientation of OSB boards OSB OSB Boards consist of three layers. Chips in separate layers are located crosswise. This structure provides a high level of:

• Size constancy;
• Fracture resistance (flexural strength);
• Shear strength inside the slab.

Since the OSB board consists of three layers, it has a longitudinal and transverse axis. The longitudinal axis coincides with the prevailing direction of the top layer chips. It is parallel to the direction of the inscriptions (markings) applied to the plate on the edge of the plate. On milled panels, the longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the markings on the panel surface. The strength and modulus of elasticity of the plate when bending along the longitudinal axis is 2 times greater than that of transverse axis. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to observe the correct orientation of the slab specified by the designer (especially in single-layer building structures).

2. Acclimatization of plates and protection against water and humidity OSB OSB OSB

Plate acclimatization

Before installation on the construction site, according to the recommendation http://cmknn.ru/osb-3-osb-3, it is necessary to acclimatize the plates min. 48 hours to equalize their humidity with moisture environment at the place of application.

Approximate values ​​of board humidity:

• Installation conditions.
• Approximate material moisture content
• Premises with constant heating 6 - 9%.
• Premises with intermittent heating 9 - 10%.
• Room without heating 16-18%

OSB boards during their storage and use must be protected from water. After installation on the outside of the building, on the walls and roof, it must be covered with appropriate insulation to protect against adverse weather conditions. The edges of OSB 3 boards (especially at the edges) are exposed to high humidity, may swell moderately (in accordance with the norm). In this case, before installing the final elements (eg asphalt shingles on the roof), it is necessary to evenly sand the slab joints (to ensure an even surface).

To prevent damage to OSB boards, it is necessary to eliminate excessive moisture, which can be caused by:

• Using materials that are too damp or wet;
• Installation on non-dried objects built using "wet" processes;
• Errors during insulation work (water leakage into the building, improper installation of a vapor barrier, etc.);
• Insufficient weather protection (exterior walls and roof must be protected with appropriate insulation immediately after installation).

3. Cutting, milling, drilling OSB boards

The slabs can be processed in the usual way used for processing solid wood. It is best to use cutting tools and drills with a cutting part made of hard alloys. The feed rate depends on the tool being used. It is recommended to reduce the feed rate moderately compared to the feed rate used when processing solid wood. The slabs must be fixed in such a way that the slabs do not vibrate during processing. It is allowed to cut slabs with the use of hand power tools

4. Mounting plates

Fastening rules:

• The minimum diameter (section) of the staples should be 1.5 mm with a length of 50 mm;
• For OSB board, you can use nails as for solid wood, screws or staples.
• When mounting load-bearing structures, it is necessary to use connecting elements made of stainless materials (galvanized or stainless steel).
• Strengthening the strength of the connection can be achieved by using special nails; ring or spiral (the use of nails with a smooth core is not recommended.).
• The length of the connecting elements must be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board to be attached, but in no case less than 50 mm; the distance from the connecting element to the edge of the slab must correspond to seven times the diameter of the connecting element (i.e. when using nails with a diameter of 3 mm - at least 20 mm);
• the maximum distance between nails driven into the edge of the slab should not exceed 150 mm;
• the maximum distance between nails hammered in the middle of the slab should not exceed 300 mm; plates with even edges are mounted on supports (ceiling frame, ceiling beam);
• fastening of OSB boards of small thickness must be started from the middle of their upper part and evenly continue fastening in the direction to the sides and down (to prevent swelling and deflection of the board).

5. Dilatation gaps (lat. dilatatio - expansion) OSB OSB OSB

• When installing the plates as a supporting structure of "floating" floors, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 15 mm wide when they are joined to the wall.
• When installing plates as wall cladding, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 10 mm wide when they are joined to the foundation;
• If the length of the surface on which the boards are mounted exceeds 12 m, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between the boards with a width of 25 mm every 12 m.
• Since volumetric changes can occur in the boards (mainly due to changes in ambient humidity, which affects the material), it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between them, which prevent waviness or other undesirable phenomena on the boards. plates with even edges - it is necessary to leave gaps between them at least 3 mm wide when joining. plates with milled edges ("comb - groove").
• When docking, dilatation gaps are formed by themselves. Expansion gaps 3 mm wide must also be left when joining plates with other structures, for example, with a window frame, doors, etc.

6. Surface protection and paint coating on the OSB board

We recommend to carry out the so-called test painting, which can reveal the incompatibility of the paint with the substances contained in the board. When painting, follow the instructions and rules developed by the paint manufacturers. For interior surfaces to be painted, we recommend using sanded boards. To paint the surface of the boards, you can use the usual colorless or colored paints used for painting wood.

ATTENTION!!! - When painting or immediately after painting, chips may come out from the surface of the boards, and when water-based paints are used, chips may partially swell. Such occurrences are not grounds for complaint.

7. Application of OSB OSB OSB A1

• A1 Roof detail with prefabricated roofing
• A2 Roof detail with prefabricated wet environment
• B1 Roof detail with asphalt coating
• B2 Asphalt roof detail for wet environment
• C Detail of the external load-bearing wall
• D1 Detail of internal load-bearing wall
• D2 Detail of internal partition
• E1 Floor detail with "light" floating floor
• E2 Floor detail with "heavy" floating floor

Basic principles for the use of OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings

When designing and manufacturing reliable wooden structures with a long service life, it is necessary to follow the basic principles of wood protection. Without an appropriate solution of the components of the structure in terms of building heat engineering and checking the temperature and humidity inside the structure, it is impossible to guarantee the mechanical strength and stability of wooden structures, as well as their resistance to the destructive effects of biological factors. To ensure a long service life and reliability of new wooden structures and buildings, it is necessary to analyze all designed structures in terms of possible diffusion and condensation of water vapor or the temperature-humidity ratio, as well as the corresponding stable moisture content of the wood, for compliance with the requirements that establish environmental parameters for the use of OSB boards .

The main difference in the possible limitation of the influence of water vapor penetrating through the structure follows from the method of analyzing the properties of the vapor barrier layer. Vapor barrier layer of a building structure, which limits the penetration of water vapor from the environment into the building structure, due to the equalization of temperature and water vapor pressure in the indoor and outdoor environment. During this process, as a result of decreasing the temperature below a certain value, condensation of water vapor can occur. The resulting condensate can have a negative effect on the properties of the building structure or reduce its service life. Limiting the penetration of water vapor into the structure means limiting diffusion (penetration of water vapor caused by partial pressure) and moisture flow (penetration of water vapor caused by air current). In the specialized literature, one can find a classification of materials for a vapor barrier layer according to the equivalent diffusion thickness. The equivalent diffusion thickness Sd (m) determines the air gap, which provides the same resistance to water vapor as the corresponding layer of the building structure.

Note: The Sd value is not the diffusion resistance value of the structure layer, given in m/s-1). A significant increase in humidity in the outer layer compared to the calculated model at the site of material damage is caused by the spatial distribution of moisture and their unequal properties.

The difference in material properties can be caused by the following:

• violation of technological discipline
• poor-quality connection of certain types of materials and their contact with openings and surrounding structures
• compound aging

Humidity and OSB boards OSB-2

Carrier boards for use in dry environments (12% humidity resistance) OSB-3 Carrier boards for use in humid environments (24% humidity resistance) OSB boards are classified as OSB-2 and OSB-3 according to the standard.

Humidity class 1

It is characterized by moisture content in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20°C. and relative humidity of the ambient air, exceeding the value of 65% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 12%.

Humidity class 2

It is characterized by the content of humidity in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20°C and a relative humidity of the ambient air exceeding 85% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 20%.

Humidity class 3

It is characterized by climatic conditions that contribute to an increase in the moisture content of materials compared to humidity class 2.

General Recommended Principles for Designing Ceilings and Floors

9. Ceiling structures

OSB ceiling structures OSB OSB

Mounting: Mount plates with even edges on load-bearing beams with an expansion gap of 3 mm. Plates with tongue-and-groove edges must be glued together with glue (for example, polyurethane) to increase rigidity. Mount all plates in such a way that their longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the beams.

• Make sure that all faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on the beams. The width of the expansion gap along the perimeter of the walls must be at least 15 mm.
• fasteners: Nails 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, minimum 50 mm, with helix or grooves if possible. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm. (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm). The maximum distance between nails is 150 mm at the joints of the boards, 300 mm at the plane of the board. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab.
• Humidity Under the wooden ceilings of the first floor, located above the base, waterproofing is laid directly on the base to protect against moisture (film). During installation, protect the ceiling structures from possible exposure to rain. When the ceiling is open, holes must be made in it for the drainage of water.
• Recommended max. center distance between racks: min. the recommended plate thickness is 15 mm. 18 mm. 22 mm. Center distance between racks - 300 mm. 400 mm. 600 mm. 800 mm.

Note Center distances between uprights are indicative. Dimensioning is carried out taking into account the length of the slab and a certain exact value of the load on the slab.

10. Floor constructions on the bearing crate

The installation principles are the same as in the case of ceiling installation. When installing the boards, first lay a soundproof layer on the bearing bars (pillows) to absorb the sound of footsteps.

11. Designs of "floating" floors

Structures of "floating" floors OSB OSB OSB The floor structure consists of one OSB slab (OSB, OSB), "comb-groove" thickness. 18 - 22 mm or from two plates (recommended) thickness. 12 - 18 mm (min. 9 mm). The distribution surface of the floor can consist of a single OSB slab, for floors that do not have high requirements for dimensional stability, or in cases where no concentrated load is expected (in places above the tongue-and-groove joint). Otherwise, use a two- or multi-layer floor structure.

• The slabs are laid on soundproofing to absorb the sound of footsteps (hard mats made of mineral wool or polystyrene intended for use in floor constructions).
• Separate layers of plates are laid in mutually perpendicular directions and connected by gluing along the surface or by screws.
• When using screws, we recommend connecting the boards in both directions or laying an intermediate layer between them (extruded microporous polyethylene or PSUL sealing tape) to prevent possible creaking. OSB-2 and OSB-3 are manufactured as structural boards with the appropriate permitted tolerances. Therefore, they can be used as a base for a classic parquet floor.

12. General recommended principles for the creation of structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

OSB boards OSB OSPOSB OSB OSB Installation

• OSB boards used for walls are mounted vertically or horizontally.
• When installing load-bearing walls, it is recommended to use boards that correspond in length to the height of the walls (to facilitate the determination of the required dimensions and the installation of boards).
• When installing plates horizontally, it is necessary to place strips of plates or stiffeners under all joints and free edges.
• The slabs can be fitted with a wooden frame structure on one or both sides.
• Plates are allowed to be mounted on the outer and inner sides of load-bearing walls.

Dilatation gaps

To prevent possible water absorption, the expansion gap between the frame and concrete foundation must be at least 25 mm wide. Expansion gaps can be formed by installing the entire wooden structure on wedge pads, and the entire gap under the carrier wooden frame fill with cement mortar. If the frame is installed directly on the foundation, then it is necessary to provide its chemical protection and raise the plates above the foundation level to a height of at least 25 mm. An expansion gap of at least 3 mm wide must be left between the walls and along the perimeter of door and window openings.

fasteners Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, at least 50 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm).

Nails are hammered at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab, in load-bearing walls - at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fastening material (at least 20 mm). - 625 mm.

Thermal and waterproofing boards

As an additional heat and sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool from the front side. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the method of fastening this facade system. When using slabs for wall cladding on the outside, the diffusion resistance of the slab to the penetration of water vapor must be taken into account. On the other hand, slabs mounted on the inside of the wall can serve as a structural element with diffusion resistance (provided that the joints of the slabs and structural elements are sealed with appropriate insulating tape). When using tongue-and-groove plates, the tape can be replaced by gluing the tongue in the groove with glue (PUR, PVA). The junction of the lower edge of the wooden structure with the foundation must be covered with a protective waterproofing compound (for example, based on bitumen emulsions). Recommended max. center distance between individual fasteners (nails, screws) Plate thickness; 9 - 12 mm. 12 - 15 mm. 15 - 22 mm. At the edges of the plate; 100 mm. 125 mm. 150 mm. On the surface of the plate; 200 mm. 250 mm. 300 mm. For load-bearing walls, the center distance between fasteners is determined static calculation. 13.

Mounting plates Before starting the installation of slabs on the roof structure, it is necessary to check the location of the rafters in the axes, whether they have a curvature and distinctive dimensions. Curved and other sized rafters adversely affect the properties and appearance of the roof. The slabs are connected in such a way that the faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on supports (rafters, slats, etc.) along their entire length. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the location of the rafters in modules with a span of 833 mm or 625 mm. In the case of a different or greater span length (> 833 mm), in order to improve the surface of the roof structure, it is necessary to choose the option with a longitudinal battens or boards 80 - 100 mm wide.

Using rails mounted with a pitch (in axes) of 417 or 625 mm, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the thickness of the slab (depending on the load). Plates with an even edge Between the plates there must be an expansion gap 3 mm wide. To level the roof surface and accelerate the temperature equalization of the slabs, it is recommended to strengthen the longitudinal edges of the slabs with steel H-shaped brackets.

Tongue-and-groove plates

To strengthen the roof structure and increase the diffusion resistance of the structural layer, glue the edges with glue (eg PUR, PVA). Fasteners Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, i.e. 50 - 75 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves, galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of at least 3 mm. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, but not less than 45 mm (recommended screws with a size of at least 4.2 x 45 mm). Nails are hammered at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fixing material, but not less than 20 mm.

Environmental influences (temperature and humidity)

The boards are used in the roof structure as a material with diffusion resistance. In rooms with normal air humidity of 50% (residential and office premises, etc.), they can be used in structures without a vapor barrier, provided that the expansion gaps of the boards are sealed with an appropriate insulating tape or gluing tongue-and-groove joints.

Environmental Protection

Recommended max. center distance between individual posts and fasteners: Center distance between rafters; 600 mm. 800 mm. 1000 mm. Min. recommended plate thickness; 12 mm. 15 mm. 18 mm. Recommended distance between fasteners on the plane of the slab and the edge of the slab; 150 mm. Roof slope 40° or more - 150 Roof slope 30° - 40° - 200 Roof slope

Note. The dimensions are determined based on the adjusted value of the static load on the slabs. Boards that have been exposed to water (e.g. rain) must be dried before installation and roofing. The plate has a slippery smooth surface. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the safety of installers when working on slabs mounted at an angle. When carrying out installation work on the roof, it is necessary to strictly observe the safety regulations and sanitary and hygienic standards established for work at height.

14. General principles of storage and warehousing of OSB boards (OSB, OSB)

OSB storage (OSB, OSB)

• For storage of plates it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation.
• It is also possible to store the slabs under a canopy in such a way that they are not exposed to the risk of atmospheric precipitation.
• If it is not possible to store under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare a flat horizontal surface and provide insulation from the ground with a layer of film, as well as wrap the pallet with film.

OSB storage OSB OSB OSB storage (OSB, OSB)

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) must be laid flat on a flat surface. OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should not be in contact with the ground to avoid possible contact with water. The ideal base is a plank or slatted pallet. In addition, OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can be neatly laid on wooden slats of the same thickness, the distance between the rails should not exceed 600 mm. Storage of OSB OSB OSB Incorrect laying can lead to deformation and damage of OSB boards (OSB, OSB). When placing several packs one above the other, the wooden slats must be in the same vertical plane. OSB boards (OSB, OSB) with limited space can be laid on the edge. In this case, the slabs must not come into contact with the ground and must be supported by a special rack. OSB OSB OSB Protection OSB (OSB, OSB) The top of the packs must be covered with a protective panel to prevent mechanical damage.

If the plates are outdoors, they must be protected with a moisture-proof coating. Protection during transportation OSB (OSB, OSB) During transportation, OSB boards must be protected from atmospheric precipitation. Humidity OSB (OSB, OSB) Like other wood-based boards, OSB boards (OSB, OSB) are hygroscopic and their dimensions change in response to changes in humidity. Changing the amount of moisture in OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can lead to changes in the size of the boards, and this can cause problems during the operation of the boards. A 1% change in moisture content will generally increase or decrease the length, width and thickness of different grades of OSB (OSB, OSB).

What is OSB, their advantages and disadvantages, types of oriented strand boards and the rules for their selection, technology for mounting panels on logs and a concrete base, features of decorative finishes.

Pros and cons of OSB flooring

Every year the demand for OSB boards is growing, which is not surprising, because the material has the following advantages:

• High level of panel strength. It is achieved due to the fact that in different layers of the board the chips are perpendicular. With the right choice of tile thickness, the structure will be able to withstand large power loads.
• Lightweight panels. The standard weight of a whole board is no more than 20 kilograms. Such material can be lifted independently, you do not have to hire a special team.
• The structure is resilient and flexible, which allows you to bend the boards without fear that they will break. This is very handy if you want to make OSB floors with rounded or other shapes, as well as when working with uneven surfaces.
• The panels have a high degree of moisture resistance. This effect is achieved through the treatment of boards with resins. When compared with other wooden building materials, this board will be less deformed when in contact with water or moisture.
• OSB is convenient and easy to work with. Panels can be installed using simple construction tools - saws, drills and screwdrivers. The cuts are even, no additional processing is required for them. On the OSB, various fasteners are well fixed - nails and self-tapping screws. Installation of plates will not take much time.
• The material has high performance in thermal insulation. Since OSB boards contain more than 90% natural wood chips, they perform the function of floor insulation. Therefore, such a floor covering will not allow heat to quickly evaporate and will maintain a stable temperature in the room.
• OSB provide good level soundproofing. The panels are multi-layered, thanks to which they absorb any noise well.
• Resistant to chemicals due to resin treatment.
• Particle boards are environmentally friendly. They are impregnated with special solutions that will not allow fungus or mold to form on the boards.
• OSB panels are budget and affordable.
• OSB flooring perfectly levels the surface. The slabs can be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, while creating an even surface on which the main finishing material can already be laid on top.
• They have a stylish color "under the tree", so that they do not require additional design processing.

There are not many shortcomings in the material. Of these, the following can be noted: when cutting boards, it is necessary to work in a mask or respirator, since wood chips and dust are harmful to the respiratory organs. Moreover, some types of low-quality panels can release dangerous carcinogens when working with them.

In addition, an OSB subfloor may contain a synthetic substance such as phenol. But in the last few years, manufacturers have been actively solving this problem and are switching to the production of formaldehyde-free panels. Such material is considered absolutely safe for human health. On its packaging you will find the label "Eco" or "Green".

The main types of OSB for the floor

OSB is a panel consisting of three layers of wood chips, which are pressed and glued together with a waterproof resin during production. The direction of the chips inside the boards alternate: first along, then perpendicularly. Thanks to this arrangement, the plates are strong and hold the elements of the fastening system well.

In construction work, several types of OSB are used:

1. OSB-2. Such plates have a low level of water resistance, so they are used only for interior decoration of dry rooms.
2. OSB-3. These are universal boards. They are resistant to high humidity both indoors and outdoors. The material is very dense, therefore it is used in construction work of any complexity.
3. OSB-4 panels. The most durable and moisture resistant type of plates. Often they are used to create structures in rooms with a high level of humidity.

Features of the choice of OSB boards for the floor

The most versatile material for flooring in a residential area is OSB-3. It is recommended to choose products manufactured by Western European manufacturers. Such panels meet European quality standards and have a high density.

The thickness of the OSB floor slab can be different, but in order for the panels to retain heat well, perform soundproofing functions, and also level the surface, it is recommended to choose products with a thickness of eight to ten millimeters. When mounting boards on logs, the recommended thickness of the panels is 16-19 mm. OSP-3 boards withstand various power loads and people's movements well.

To well level small defects in the flooring, it is enough to use a material ten millimeters thick. If the floor is with strong bumps and cracks, then 15-25 mm slabs will be required.

OSB is often used on the floor under linoleum, parquet, tile or laminate. This material serves as a high-quality and durable basis for a decorative coating.

Technology for mounting OSB boards on logs

The choice of material and floor design depends on the purpose of the room, its characteristics. As a rule, two main types of laying OSB boards are used - on logs and directly on a concrete screed.

Advantages and disadvantages of fastening OSB panels to logs

This version of the installation of the subfloor is quite simple, it can be done in a few days on your own. OSB panels are dense, resistant to crumbling, moisture resistant, not afraid of contact with biological and chemical substances and, most importantly, perfectly attached to the bars.

OSB floors on joists - a great alternative concrete screed. Such installation allows you to save money on building materials. In addition, the surface can be easily insulated, and the wiring of communications will not cause problems - they can simply be placed in the cracks between the wooden blocks.

The advantages of laying OSB on logs include the fact that with their help the bases are perfectly leveled even with the sharpest drops themselves. It turns out a smooth surface, and the floor structure is not weighted. If some panels become unusable, they can be easily replaced.

Of the disadvantages of this installation method, it can only be noted that the whole structure turns out to be quite high, about 90-95 mm, and this will make the room lower.

Preparatory work before laying OSB on logs

The beginning of installation work is the preparation of the foundation. First of all, we inspect the floor for damage, cracks, chips, depressions, mold and mildew. If large defects are found, then they should be removed before laying the logs. Minor flaws can be left, since the height of the lags will hide them anyway.

Mold and fungus must be removed without fail. If this is not done, microorganisms will attack the logs, and eventually the OSB boards. This will lead to premature damage to the flooring. All debris from the floor surface should be removed.

Logs can be installed on the floor with a slope, but the maximum slope level should be 0.2%. To determine the angle, you must use a water level or a long building one. If too large slopes are found, they should be leveled with a self-levelling compound.

The procedure for installing lags on the floor

The dimensions of the bars for lags are always calculated according to individual measurements. In this case, the products must be of the same dimensions.

After they are prepared, proceed to the installation according to the following scheme:

• We install wooden beams around the entire perimeter of the room, fix them at the same distance from each other - 40 centimeters.
• The distance between the wall and the material should be no more than twenty centimeters.
• We fasten the logs to the base of the floor with bolts or self-tapping screws.
• The upper surfaces of the lags must be in a strictly horizontal plane. Their evenness should be periodically checked by the building level.
• If the room is damp enough, then the bars must be processed protective equipment from mold and mildew.
• If necessary, we put insulation in the gaps.

How to fix OSB on logs

For laying OSB panels on the floor, you will need construction tools such as a tape measure, a hammer, a water level, a jigsaw and a puncher. Also, for the installation process, prepare special fastening systems for woodworking and a nail puller.

Laying on the floor should be oriented strand boards with simple edges. Well, if they have grooves that will help fasten the panels together. To correctly calculate the required number of sheets, consider the fact that seven percent of the material will be lost during cutting.

Do-it-yourself OSB floors are easy to install according to the following instructions:

1. The plates are laid across the lags.
2. The seams between the panels should be minimal and go clearly in the center of the log. Between the OSB, you need to leave a distance of about two millimeters so that the floor does not deform over time and does not begin to creak.
3. Between the OSB plate and the wall we leave a larger gap - 12 millimeters.
4. We fix the panels to the beams by means of self-tapping screws or nails (ring, spiral).
5. The step of the fasteners along the sheet should be about 15 millimeters. On additional supports - 30 millimeters.
6. Fasteners that hold the plate around the perimeter are located at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge. This is necessary so that it does not crack.
7. The length of self-tapping screws or nails should be 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plate.
8. The gaps formed between the walls and the rough floor covering must be filled with construction foam or mineral wool.

Thus, with the help of OSB boards laid on logs, it is possible to prepare a rough base for further laying parquet, tiles or carpet on it.

Laying OSB panels on a concrete screed

The procedure for installing OSB boards on a concrete floor is preceded by a preparatory stage. From the base it is necessary to remove debris and dust. In order for the adhesive to adhere well, the surface must be clean. The base is covered with a primer. It will help the glue to better adhere to the panels, and will also prevent the screed from “dusting” during operation.

• The panels are laid out on the floor surface. If necessary, cut the OSB with a jigsaw or saw.
• Next, apply glue to the inside of the plate. To spread the product evenly over the surface, use a notched trowel.
• We glue the chipboards on the concrete base. Additionally, they can be fixed with the help of driven dowels, which should be placed every half a meter.
• Between each plate we leave an expansion joint, two millimeters thick.
• Between the walls in the room and wooden boards, the gap is no more than 13 mm. These seams are necessary so that during the operation of the coating no swelling occurs due to temperature and humidity changes.
• The last step in installing OSB boards on the floor is cleaning the panels from debris. We also carry out the sealing of all the formed seams with the help of mounting foam. It dries in three to four hours. Remove excess foam from the coating with a sharp knife.

Decorative flooring made of OSB boards

After the installation of OSB boards on the floor is completely completed, you can start finishing the flooring. If you plan to leave such a floor as the main one, then as an option, the surface can be completely varnished or painted, and skirting boards can be installed around the perimeter.

No additional preparation of OSB for painting is required. It is only necessary to clean the floor of dust and cover it with a couple of layers of varnish or paint. This can be done with a roller or a sprayer. Hard-to-reach places should be painted over with a brush.

There are panels that are more expensive, but they are already available with a glossy finish. Finishing such a coating will be very simple: just ennoble the perimeter of the room with a plinth - and that's it, the floor is ready for use.

If you are laying roll materials on top of the plates, for example, carpet or linoleum, then make sure that all the joints between the OSB panels are flush with the entire surface and do not protrude anywhere. Any small irregularities can be removed with sanding paper. Compensation gaps must be filled with elastic sealant.

For laying over OSB laminate, it is not necessary to prepare the panels. Small unevenness at the joints will be leveled by the substrate.

How to lay OSB on the floor - look at the video:

Installation of OSB boards is a way to inexpensively and efficiently level a concrete base. And if there is a need, then create a floor from scratch, fixing the panels on the logs. Such a coating does not need expensive finishing or impregnation with moisture-resistant solutions, and you can even lay it yourself.

OSB or OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is a relatively new building material that has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction is great, with the insulation of standard houses. Especially often, with the help of OSB, floor surfaces are formed and leveled. Today we will talk about how to do this correctly.

OSB - boards consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued together with waterproof resins. Its gluing is carried out in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives the OSB strength, allows you to firmly hold the fasteners.

The following types of OSB are used in construction:

• OSB-2 - panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
• OSB-3 is a versatile material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
• OSB-4 - the most durable and moisture resistant plates. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions of high humidity.

For the construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and the movement of people.

When leveling small floor defects, it is enough to use OSB boards with a thickness of 10 mm. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require a material of 10-15 mm. If it is necessary to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

OSB boards are used as an even and solid base for various modern coatings - parquet, tile, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand board are:

• Creating a floor surface. OSB is a popular material for creating a subfloor on logs. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both on the upper side of the log and on the lower side.
• Surface leveling. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create a completely flat surface suitable for laying a finishing coat.
• Floor insulation. OSB board is 90% natural wood chips with high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, the OSB floor does not allow heat to escape and keeps it indoors.
• Noise isolation. The multi-layer dense structure of the OSB reliably absorbs any kind of noise.

Consider several popular technologies for laying OSB on different bases.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling the concrete base with OSB slabs. Work is carried out according to this scheme.

Debris is swept from the concrete base, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the mounting adhesive. The base is covered with a primer. This also contributes to better adhesion of the adhesive to the base. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to “dust” during operation.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is performed with an electric jigsaw or a circular saw. On the wrong side of the OSB, a rubber-based parquet adhesive is applied, using a notched trowel for uniform application. Glue the sheets to the concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with driven dowels. For guaranteed retention, the dowels are hammered around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is even, the installation is carried out in a dry living room, then it is enough to fix the dowels at the corners of each slab (subject to the mandatory use of high-quality glue!).

When laying between the plates, expansion joints with a thickness of 3 mm are left. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity expansions (bulges) of the OSB during operation.

At the last stage of work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled with mounting foam. Its drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that protrudes beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Laying OSB on an old wooden floor helps to level the surface and prepare it for the installation of the finish coat. Installation is carried out in this way:

1. To begin with, with the help of a level or a rule, the localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) of the boardwalk is determined.
2. Boards that “walk” or rise too high above the general level are attracted to the joists with dowels, sinking them into the material. In some cases, to eliminate the creaking and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be sorted out with the replacement (repair) of the lag.
3. They clean the influxes of paint from the flooring, bloating and protrusions are washed with a grinder or emery cloth.
4. OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with the seams of each next row shifted. Cross-shaped joints should not be! Dilatation gaps are provided (between the plates - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
5. Holes are drilled in the plates. Their diameter should match the diameter of the wood screws that were selected to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the plates every 20-30 cm, countersinking is performed under the caps of the self-tapping screws.
6. Self-tapping wood screws attract the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is at least 45 mm.
7. If you want to make the floor more durable, mount the second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
8. Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with mounting foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

In the presence of a concrete base (for example, floor slabs), the installation of a log and sheathing them with OSB sheets allows you to create a flat floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also to fit insulating, moisture and noise insulating materials into the structure.

Consider the technology of creating an OSB floor on logs on an existing concrete base. Logs (wooden bars) are fixed to the concrete floor with dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the lags, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the pitch is 40 mm, then the minimum thickness of OSB is 15-18 mm, if the pitch is 50 cm - the thickness is 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.

Thanks to the lags, space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be put to good use by laying insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a heat insulator can be laid between the joists: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, XPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the ceiling, the floor structure is supplemented with vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB boards are laid across the log. The seams between adjacent plates (in width) should go strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm - between the plates, 12 mm - between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the lags with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). Step of fasteners: along the perimeter of sheets - 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports - 30 mm. Nails (or self-tapping screws) fixing the plates along the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fasteners are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fasten OSB boards on logs in an ordinary city apartment, see the video:

Laying OSB on wooden joists is the easiest way to get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate with the existing columnar, pile, pile-screw foundation. Work order:

1. Logs are mounted on the foundation. The step of the lag should correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the step, the greater the thickness).
2. Perform a rough floor roll. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the lag, OSB boards are laid and fixed on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing preparations, for example, bituminous mastic.
3. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the OSB.
4. Thermal insulation material is laid, for example, foam plastic, mineral wool boards, ecowool, etc.
5. Close the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on logs on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

At this point, the work process is considered completed.

A strong, hard and even surface makes OSB a universal base for all modern floor finishes. How to cover the floor from OSB? Here are some popular solutions:

• Lacquer or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which will only need decorative trim paintwork materials. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation, it is enough to clean them of dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
• Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying rolled materials, it is necessary to ensure that the joints between OSB boards are flush with the rest of the surface. It is desirable to remove all irregularities with sanding paper. Compensation gaps - fill with elastic sealant.
• Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the base of the OSB, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this, lags are placed more often than required by the thickness of the sheets. The step between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued onto the OSB using a special adhesive suitable for the wood surface and the tile used.
• Laminate- finishing coating, which is fixed in a "floating" way, without rigid fastening of the lamellas. This coating is quite rigid, so it is not necessary to prepare OSB for laying laminate. Minor irregularities that may be at the joints of the plates are leveled by the substrate.

What exactly to choose is up to you.

Using OSB makes it possible to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary - create it from scratch on the logs. The OSB surface will not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, coating with moisture-resistant compounds. This is an excellent choice for those who want to create a quality floor with minimal effort.