No matter how close modern man familiar with the topic of electricity, he always takes it in his house as a matter of course. But not always everything is so simple, especially for the owner of a newly built country house or cottage. Of course, there is an option to buy a house on a turnkey basis with all the necessary communications, including electricity, but the fact is that most developers do not take into account the individual needs of the buyer, and install electrical wiring according to standard scheme. Naturally, this does not suit everyone.
Especially those who independently build a new one or reconstruct an old house.
Incorrect calculation and installation of electrical wiring will cause the constant operation of circuit breakers, increasing the likelihood of damage electric shock, and even a fire - and such prospects are unlikely to please anyone. How to avoid these mistakes, connect the house to the mains, calculate and install the wiring in the house and will be discussed in our publication.

The first stage of electrification of a private house is the supply of electricity. Power cable, types, section, which one to choose

So, the first thing to do is to bring electricity directly to the house. We will make a reservation right away that here we will not talk about numerous permits, going through the authorities and documentation that needs to be obtained and agreed upon, since this is a full-fledged topic for a separate article, but we will focus only on the technical side of the issue. Also, we will not talk about how to connect to the air or underground electrical line This is the work of professional electricians. The developer directly should be primarily concerned with the question - which cable is better to use for supplying electricity to the house http://www.bezpeka-shop.com/catalog/silovoy_kabel/.

For these purposes, power cables are used. Power cable it is a conductor designed to transmit alternating current from the place of production or transformation (in our case the transformer) to the place of consumption (home).

Which power cable to choose depends to a large extent on the type of its laying - underground or over the air. Since in different cases the sheath of the power cable and the degree of its protection will be different.

Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, we will consider them briefly with recommendations for choosing a cable in relation to each method.

laying power cable underground

To start on a suburban or suburban area it is necessary to choose the simplest and most optimal way of laying the cable. The cable should be laid at least a meter from trees and places where earthworks are planned in the future. The cable should not be laid in places subject to increased stress, under the road, under parking lots, etc. The cable should not interfere with further construction. An almost ideal option is to lay the cable under the tracks or next to them.
Cable laying begins with marking and digging a trench. The minimum depth of the trench should be 70 cm. If you take into account the sand cushion that needs to be poured under the cable, then it is better to immediately dig a trench 80 cm deep. After the trench is ready, it is cleaned of debris - stones, pieces of iron, glass, etc. d. Sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of 10 cm, the cable is laid.
Now about the choice of cable.
Since the cable will be constantly under a certain pressure and exposed to atmospheric water, it is necessary to buy products designed for these loads. Quite often, power cables with PVC insulation and additional protection are used.
For laying underground, a power copper cable of the VBBSHV brand is excellent.

Of course, one can object that most air and underground power lines are aluminum, and it is highly undesirable to combine them with copper. This is true, but only with direct contact of metals. Today, there are a sufficient number of ways to reliably connect wires and cables made of different metals - for example, a threaded connection or a connection using terminal box. However, if you want or have a budget deficit, you can buy a cheaper AVBbSHV aluminum power cable.

The sheath of the power cable of both brands is made of polyvinyl chloride and is reliably protected from rodents with a steel tape.

overhead power cable laying

Such a connection system is also called "air". Compared to the previous method, this one is faster and cheaper. The disadvantages of laying through the air include the danger of a cable break, some inconvenience associated with a “lace” sagging over the territory of the site, and a slightly spoiled aesthetic appearance of the site as a whole. However, most developers opt for an air connection.
To minimize all the troubles that threaten sagging and cable breakage, it is necessary to observe a few simple conditions:

If the cable is not self-supporting (SIP), a special cable is used to support the cable.
The cable is attached to the cable with special ties (not electrical tape and not aluminum wire!) With a distance of about 70 cm between the ties.
The cable is not stretched along with the cable, it should sag slightly.
If the distance from the power line to the connection point is more than 25 meters, you will need to install an additional support.

In the case of an air connection, the use of a SIP cable is considered optimal, which is a 2- or 4-core (220 and 380 volts, respectively) aluminum alloy structure with UV-resistant thermoplastic polyethylene insulation.

SIP is intended only for supplying electricity to the object, its use inside the building is prohibited.

how to choose the right section of power cables

The cross section of the power cable must be selected, focusing on the future load. Correctly performed calculations will allow you to feel confident in the reliable and safe operation of the entire electrical network in the house.
The main indicator that helps to calculate the cross section and, accordingly, determine the brand of the cable is the amount of current that the cable is able to pass for a long time without heating up. Calculating the current strength is quite simple - you need to sum up the power of all electrical appliances in the house, which will be included in the electrical network.
Below is a list of some of the most common devices.

Electrical appliance power, W.

LCD TV 140-300
Refrigerator 300-800
Boiler 1500-2500
Vacuum cleaner 500-2000
Iron 1000-2000
Electric kettle 1000-2500
Microwave oven 700-1500
Washing machine 2500
Computer 300-600
Lighting 300-1500
Hair dryer 1000-2500
Total (approximately) 10000-20000

Single-phase network, voltage 220v:

P is the total power for all electrical appliances, W.
U is the mains voltage, V.
Ki = 0.75 is the coefficient of simultaneity.
for household electrical appliances.
cos=1

Three-phase network, voltage 380 V:

After the current strength has been calculated, let's turn to the tables with which you can find the cable required material and sections.

But it may turn out that the value obtained as a result of the calculations does not quite coincide with the tabular data. In this case, there is no need to save, we select the nearest value from the table, but upwards.
As you can see, in order to make the necessary calculations, you do not need to be a professional electrician. And with a strong desire, all the necessary calculations can be done independently. Of course, it does not hurt to consult with electricians in order to be completely confident in the reliability of your electrical network.

The second stage of electrification of a private house: electrical wiring

To begin with, it is necessary to draw up a plan-scheme for the installation of electrical wiring in the house. This will allow you to quickly and accurately select a list Supplies and will also greatly facilitate the determination of the location of the meter, switches, sockets, switchboard, stabilizers, uninterruptible power supplies, etc.

electrical wiring in a private house

According to the wiring requirements, room-by-room wiring is strongly recommended by circuit separation wiring, which allows to achieve additional protection overload circuits. You need to separate the circuits according to the power consumption of electricity. Such a separation is necessary for the optimal selection of the cable section and the circuit breaker according to the expected loads.

As for sockets, a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm is most often used for them; for lighting devices, a wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm will suffice. The power consumption of a group of sockets should not exceed 4.6 kW, and the total power consumption of lighting fixtures should not exceed 3.3 kW. On the internal electrical panel, a residual current device is installed separately for each group.

For some powerful electrical appliances: a boiler, a heated floor, an electric furnace in a bath, etc., it is required to allocate a separate electrical circuit. Focusing on the previously drawn up scheme, we calculate the total length of the cable (cross section for individual groups of electrical appliances), as well as the required number of switches, sockets, automatic machines of the required parameters. So, a conventional single-phase machine is triggered by a short circuit and overload in the network, and a differential machine is designed for short circuits and stray currents.
In order to lay hidden electrical wiring in a wall of brick, foam concrete or aerated concrete, strobes are made horizontally and vertically. The electrical system in a private house consists of:
Automatov.
counter.
intermediate machines.
Postings.
Switches.
Sockets.
Consumers.
However, if power surges are often observed in the network, then you should think about buying a voltage stabilizer for your home.

After all, if the voltage significantly exceeds normal values, then the device may fail, and at low voltage it will work intermittently or even turn off.
A voltage stabilizer is a bulky and rather expensive thing, and if the budget does not allow you to buy a stabilizer for the whole house, you should choose a device only for expensive equipment - a TV, refrigerator, etc. In general, a three-phase power system is more practical and convenient for a private house, since it makes it possible to connect three-phase consumers. For example, a three-phase boiler will work three times more efficiently than a single-phase one. In addition, it is possible to proportionally distribute the load among the phases.

which wiring is preferable - closed or open

The type of wiring is chosen based on the material from which the house is built. For example, in a house made of wood, wiring is only done open type. In this case, the wires can be laid in a special metal hose, which will provide additional fire safety.

In a brick house, wiring can be either open or closed.
Concealed wiring can be replaceable (laid in plastic pipes), or non-replaceable, laid in strobes made in the walls.

The wiring cable must exactly match the intended load. Regardless of the type of wiring, all cable and wire connections are made in special junction boxes, which you can access for monitoring and troubleshooting.

list of tools for wiring

For installation work, you will need the following tools:
Screwdriver-indicator.
Tester.
Perforator.
Pliers.
A hammer.
Insulating tape.
Wall chaser.
Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must be carried out with the obligatory consideration of the requirements for the location of sockets and switches. Thus, the placement of sockets and switches is strictly prohibited in rooms with high humidity, for example, in bathrooms and saunas.

wiring layout

The layout of the wiring begins with the main bundle of wires, while marking the places of branching, passing through walls, turns, etc. The wire is laid along the wall at a distance of 20 centimeters from the ceiling. Depending on which method is chosen, the wiring is laid from the switchboard to the consumers according to the scheme.

In a private house, energy consumption is an order of magnitude higher than in an apartment, so a cable for electrical wiring in an apartment can also be used with a smaller cross section than in a private house. The vast majority of outlets in the home are for portable appliances. Single-phase sockets during wiring are often combined into groups. The socket group is powered copper cable VVGng 3x25.

A 25 ampere safety switch is placed on such a group. If the house has a three-phase household electrical network, then the wiring must be done taking into account the correct load between the phases.

A circuit breaker for a group of lighting fixtures is usually used for no more than 10 amps, which is quite enough. If the total power consumption of all lighting fixtures exceeds this figure, it is recommended to create another lighting group, with a separate machine. To power a lighting group, it is most often used VVG cable ng 3x1.5.

For stationary appliances, install sockets of the required current rating for one phase, or three-phase socket. For electric stoves, the socket is powered by a four-wire VVGng cable for three phases or a three-wire cable for one phase.
For nutrition washing machine it is recommended to use a separate line with a machine of the required rating.

To date, electrical wiring is mainly used copper wires and cables. Aluminum, of course, is much lighter and cheaper than copper, but it has a number of significant drawbacks. Where possible, open connections between aluminum and copper wires, since a galvanic reaction occurs, the connection is gradually destroyed, it starts to spark, which can lead to a fire. There are quite a lot of adapters, boxes, etc. for connecting wiring from different metals.
And finally. It goes without saying that a person who first encountered the problem of electrifying his own house “from scratch” will definitely not cope with this task. But the basic principles and rules of installation and choice of materials will be useful to any owner of their own home.

The cross section of the electrical wire - all you need to know

Very often, repairs in a house are accompanied by changes in the wiring diagram, or even its complete replacement, because earlier aluminum wiring was used in residential premises, the characteristics of which do not meet modern requirements. Many want to save their cash and come to the decision to independently replace the wiring. However, in order to correctly calculate and install the wiring, you need to stock up on certain knowledge in this area.

The main step is calculation of the cross section of the electric wire. In principle, without using any formulas, it is enough to know that a copper conductor can withstand a current ten times its cross section. This means that a conductor with a cross section of 1 square millimeter can withstand a current of 10 amperes, a wire of 2.5 square millimeters - 25 amperes, etc. More accurate values for copper conductors can be found in the "summary table of conductor cross-sections, current, power and load characteristics". The main sections of wires used in home wiring: 0.75; one; 1.5; 2.5; 4 sq. mm.

Now you need to determine the consumption of electrical appliances in the room in which the wiring is being replaced. For example, an iron has a power of 1800 watts. Knowing the voltage in the network, according to Ohm's law, you can determine the current consumed by it: 1800W / 220V \u003d 8.2A. Now it is clear that a wire of 1 square millimeter is enough to power the iron. But the fact is that other appliances connected to sockets can work simultaneously with the iron in the room. Therefore, you need to add up the current consumption of all devices that can be connected at the same time and, based on the value obtained, select the cross section of the wiring wires.

Most often, a wire of 2.5 square meters is enough. mm. for connecting sockets and 1.5 sq. mm. to illuminate the room. It is necessary to take a wire of the same section for other household "electrical equipment". If the kitchen in the apartment is equipped with an electric stove, then a wire with a cross section of 4 square meters must be connected to it. mm. It can withstand a load of 8 kW. The given cross-sections of the conductors are approximate, for an accurate calculation, of course, the actual consumption of electrical appliances must be taken into account.

The cross section of the wires cannot be selected "butt" to the connected load. There must be a power reserve, because it is not known what new electrical appliance you will buy tomorrow, it may be dangerous to connect it to the new wiring.

When wiring circuits, wiring must be provided as a common circuit breaker, with which you can de-energize all rooms, as well as separate electromechanical machines for different wiring branches. Particular attention in terms of protection should be given to rooms with high humidity.

Calculating is only half the battle. House wiring is a source of potential danger, therefore, its installation must be carried out in accordance with all the rules, which must be learned from the relevant literature. Only after accumulating a sufficient level of knowledge and understanding all the intricacies, you can proceed to independent design and installation, otherwise, contact the services of an experienced electrician.

Now on the Internet you can find many reviews of various wires and cables, each of them is used only in a certain case. However, our subscribers are increasingly interested in which cable to choose to connect the house to the mains, because reading all the reviews and choosing the best one for yourself is long and tedious. In this article, we decided to tell you what kind of wire is needed for wiring through the air and underground. We've rounded up the most popular wires trusted by professional electricians.

Which cable to use over the air

SIP

gained serious popularity due to its low cost and large selection of sections. It works in the temperature range from -60 to +50 degrees. Suitable for connecting two-phase and three-phase network. Made of aluminum with strong insulation. However, this conductor has the following disadvantages:

It must be connected using special couplings.
The wire causes indignation among the inspectors. Indeed, the rules state that this conductor cannot be used to connect. The fact is that the line must be solid, and this conductor must be connected to a more flexible one.

AVK

The AVK cable is considered a reliable conductor that operates at temperatures from -45 to +45 degrees. It is distinguished by its reliability and versatility. With it, you can connect networks up to 380 volts, which is more than enough for home use. The cable received aluminum conductors and high-quality vinyl insulation, which is equipped with a coaxial braid.

AVVG

used in temperate climate withstands voltages up to 1000 volts. Its cost is acceptable. The conductor is deciphered as follows: aluminum, there is core insulation, a PVC sheath. However, there are no protective covers in this wire, although it will be more than enough for an over-the-air connection.

Note! This conductor can only be connected using cable wiring.

VVG

It is considered the most popular in our country. After all, its veins are made of copper (drunks do not steal it, no matter how regrettable it may sound). It can be used in networks up to 1000 volts. Its installation can only be through cable wiring. The price of this type of wire is kept at a low level, and it also shows excellent durability.

Which cable to use underground

If you wish to lay the wire in the ground, then we recommend using the following conductors:

VBbShv

made of copper, sheath - PVC. This conductor also received an additional armored coating, which makes it the best for laying underground. You can learn more about it in the article: specifications cable VBbShv.

AVBbShv

The AVBbShv cable received the following design: aluminum cores, PVC sheath, armored coating, protective hose made of polyvinyl chloride. The nominal voltage of this wire is 3,000 volts. Service life - 30 years.

A huge variety of cable products baffles beginners who decide to do electrical work with their own hands. And the very first question that they usually have is which wire to use for wiring in the house? The question is really serious and requires special analysis. So, let's figure out which electrical wires for internal wiring can be used.

Let's start with the fact that at present, the rules of the PUE prohibit electrical wiring in the house with wires or cables with aluminum conductors. We will not go into the details of this ban, just keep in mind for the future that such a requirement exists. So, when choosing a cable, you will have to look for a product with copper conductors. But even here the diversity is quite large. For example, there are cables:

single-core;
stranded;
consisting of one monolithic wire;
from many wires;
with conventional polymer insulation;
armored;
with the addition of a cotton layer or rubber to the insulation.

Accordingly, they all have different markings and names. Based on the quality of the insulation, what material it is made of, electrical wires can be laid in an open or closed way. By the way, if it is wires that are used in open (external) wiring, then they must be laid in protective boxes or pipes. But the cable can be laid without any protection.

Popular Models

Let's move on to the analysis of the wires themselves, which electricians most often use in home electrical wiring. In principle, there are not so many such wires. We offer three positions: NYM, VVGng and PUNP.

NYM

it electrical wire manufactured according to German technology. Unfortunately, not all Russian enterprises use the German standard, so you can find markings on the market: NUM, NUM or even NUM. All these wires are manufactured according to specifications, and each plant has its own specifications. But we must pay tribute to the fact that these products also have good technical characteristics, however, they are lower than those of NYM. Therefore, the calculation of the cross section of wires of these brands must be carried out with a multiplying factor of 1.1 or 1.2

The NYM wire itself is a high-quality product, but among all the wires used in the electrical wiring of a house, it is the most expensive. Therefore, not all consumers have the opportunity to carry out its installation. I would like to add that the cable design has several layers of protective insulation with internal filling, consisting of chalk-filled rubber. It is this layer that additionally performs the functions of protection when cutting the cable. After all, there is always a chance of damage to the insulation of the cores. This cannot be done with an intermediate layer. And another plus is the high flexibility of the product, which also reduces the complexity of the installation process.

VVG

This is an unarmoured cable with PVC insulation and sheath. That is, each core is insulated with PVC compound, and the overall protective sheath is made of this polymer. There is no internal filling of the space between the cores in this wire. It should be noted that the VVG cable can be used in any premises: dry and wet. Its only drawback is that it does not stretch.

As a subtype of this wire, there is a cable on the market with the addition of two letters in the marking. It's "ng". These letters indicate that this cable belongs to the category of non-combustible materials. That is, even in the laying in a beam, it does not spread combustion. If a VVG cable is installed in a bundle, then when any other wire burns, this one will also start burning. Therefore, when it comes to electrical wiring in a private house, especially in a wooden one, it is better to choose the VVGng model.

By the way, the wiring of this brand has a small variety. This is a form of laying veins. It can be flat, round, square and even triangular. Experts recommend installing a flat version in houses, it is just convenient to work with it, plus there is no need to make deep strobes.

PUNP

This is the cheapest wire for electrical wiring used in private houses and apartments. And it is an installation flat type. In execution PUNP can be two-core or three-core. At the same time, a single-wire wire is installed in each core. And this is its distinguishing feature.

You can use it, like the previous positions, both in power networks and for lighting. But many experts do not give their preference to this cable, it's all about insulation, or rather, its low quality. During wiring, heat is generated in it, which negatively affects the insulating layer of the PUNP cable, so over time they lose their qualities.

Additional items

Of course, these three brands are not the only ones. There is a fairly wide range of models that can be used for electrical wiring at home, both indoors and outdoors. What do manufacturers offer for these purposes?

PRN, which can be mounted both indoors and outdoors.
PRI is used in dry and damp rooms.
PRHE is recommended to be laid only in pipes or ducts.
PRD is used for laying lighting networks.
PPV - two-core flat wire.
PV1 is a single-core wire, very flexible. By the way, in this group of wires there is a huge variety of colors. The color is selected according to the wiring diagram for ease of connection. There is even a yellow-green for grounding.

For street lighting it is recommended to install armored cable VBbShv. He does great with negative impact soil and water, therefore it fits into trenches. The number of cores can be different: 4, 5 and 6. But for overhead lines best to use wire self-supporting SIP. This is, firstly, aluminum wire, inside which a steel wire is threaded. Hence, in principle, and greater strength. Secondly, the insulation is a light-stabilized weather-resistant polyethylene, this polymer does not degrade in the open air.

Conclusion on the topic

Probably, we can finish the analysis of the question on this, which wire to use in the house and on the street, which ones are needed specifically for private housing construction? The main requirement of cable products is strength, reliability and long term operation, because most often hidden wiring is used in houses and apartments, which means that it is practically mounted for centuries. All of the above wires for electrical wiring meet these requirements. So there is no reason to doubt their reliability.