Regardless of the size, kitchens are certainly divided into two zones. The first is for cooking, and the second is considered dining. In the working area, there must certainly be a sink, a stove, an extractor fan and a couple of tables for comfort. Many are trying to supplement this area with other elements: a dishwasher, microwave and other kitchen appliances to simplify the cooking process.

Of course, there are a lot of objects and all this should be comfortably placed in a very limited area. In this case, the salvation will be the installation of a corner kitchen, which makes it possible to rationally use the space. Assembling a corner kitchen is not an easy task, but you can still install it yourself.

Mounting the kitchen

It is better to install the headset after all the cabinets are assembled. For convenience, it is better to fix the doors last - this way you simplify the installation process. The installation process begins with the preparation of all holes in the walls.

Placement should be carefully monitored during installation. If not installed correctly, the kitchen will look inappropriate in the future.

Keep a straight line of all outer and lower cabinets so that they are on the same level. If the installation is not accurate, then the doors may not close or stand unevenly, so adjust them well before fastening all the drawers together.

Step by step installation

Assembling a kitchen set with your own hands requires careful preparation. To avoid mistakes, you should carefully plan everything and only after that proceed with the installation process.

• The first step is to make a drawing, where to think over the design, dimensions and layout of the corner kitchen to the smallest detail. L-shaped kitchen set will be great solution as for small kitchen as well as for large areas.
• Purchase of materials and cutting. When choosing a material, you should pay attention not only to beauty, but also to quality. Cutting and detailing are necessary to have a clear idea of ​​which parts to cut. Only after that you can proceed to the installation of the furniture itself.
• Preparation of tools and surfaces. Naturally, tools will be needed for collection, but in addition, when installing a corner kitchen, you need to prepare the walls and make them even. After all, all joints of the headset should be connected exclusively at an angle of 90 degrees.
• After all the preparations, you need to assemble the corner cabinet. This detail is always assembled first, because it is the main one.
• After mounting the corner, you can begin to assemble the remaining elements of the headset.

Assembly sequence

Each detail of the headset is nothing more than a wooden box (they differ only in size and shape). In order to fully assemble the kitchen, it is enough to learn how to assemble one cabinet, and you can assemble the rest using the studied technology.

If you are new to this business, then be sure to study the instructions for the standard assembly - the use of each part is clearly spelled out there.

After all the cabinets and drawers are assembled, you need to install all this, but this business also has its own characteristics and you need to follow the sequence.

• The corner cabinet is installed first, in most cases it comes with a sink.
• Then, focusing on the corner cabinet, install all the floor boxes. Immediately adjust their height and connection angle.
• After adjustment, the cabinets are fastened together using self-tapping screws or ties.
• Fix the countertop and sink.
• Proceed to the assembly and fastening of hanging boxes. Before attaching them, adjust the height for comfortable use.
• Attach all the doors and screw the baseboard.

Corner mounting

The correct installation of a corner cabinet with a sink consists in accurate calculations, it is for this reason that it is installed in the first place. An important feature is the opening for the sink and the layout of the pipeline, which supplies water to the sink and drain to the drain. With this layout, it is best to use a pipe without a back wall in order to provide access to the pipes. Then the rigidity for the structure is provided by special screeds.

As for the upper corner cabinet, the assembly of this drawer is no different from the standard assembly of ordinary cabinets with doors. The main thing is to observe a right angle when installing - it will be much easier for you to install the remaining cabinets.

Cabinet assembly

Consider the cabinet assembly procedure.

• Screw the fastener onto the side wall of the cabinet. It is necessary to drill small holes for self-tapping screws, with their help to fasten the mount.
• In addition, holes also need to be drilled on the walls of the drawers - it is on them that the rail will be attached. If you do not do this in advance, then when installing the kitchen set, difficulties may arise with this process.
• Where the box has a blind hole, a wooden chopik (dowel) should be inserted. This will help to assemble the box frame evenly and significantly increase the strength of the structure.
• Only after careful inspection and making sure that the structure is assembled evenly, it is possible to fix the parts with a screw and a hexagon. To hide the screw head and give the headset an aesthetic look, they put on a plug on top to match the kitchen.
• If the cabinets have legs, then they should be screwed and set to the required level.
• After the assembly of the box is completed, a sheet of fiberboard is nailed to the side wall with the help of small nails.
• As for the hanging drawers, you need to attach fittings to them, with which they will cling to the wall. It is best to use adjustable awnings.

Advantages

Of course, buying a kitchen set will save you the hassle, but it will not be able to meet all your requirements. Standard sets are on sale - they are not designed for some features of your kitchen. Benefits of making your own:

• the main advantage will be the cost of the kitchen, which will cost half as much as a finished or custom-made one;
• the ability to make a non-standard model - you can take into account all the features;
• with proper calculations and assembly, headsets will last for many years;
• you can choose a very original design that goes beyond the standard perception.

• Headset price: $1270
• Square:
• Layout:
• Furniture color:
• Facades: Plastic
• Style:
• An association: -
• Floor: Tile
• Apron: Tile
• Ceiling: -

Your repost will change the Internet :)

In general, something had to be done about it, and I decided to move the washer to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall by the window. According to the previously taken measurements, everything turned out “tuttle to tyutelka”: the width of the cabinet that had to be removed was 40 cm, the typewriter - 40 cm. However, in the process of dismantling the cabinet at the junction of the floor and the wall, a heating pipe appeared, which prevented the installation of the washer in a niche, and if a wooden cabinet is easily trimmed, then naturally nothing can be done with a typewriter. I had to hastily build a small pedestal (to the height of the pipe) and install a machine on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time for repairs.

As it turned out later, the machine not only launched this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and design of the future kitchen.

Initial data

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event. A kitchen with an area of ​​6.2 m2 (according to the data sheet), which has not been made for many years, even cosmetic repairs. The kitchen set has been standing like this since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years old. The window frame is old, wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs to be replaced. The gas stove is relatively new, but does not meet the requirements of the wife.

In general, from what was supposed to be taken from old kitchen and only the microwave oven and the washing machine mentioned in the prologue remained to be transferred to the new one.

It remains only to add that the old layout of the kitchen and the arrangement of all the elements on it always seemed to me terribly inconvenient, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every piece of free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit, that I got it.

General provisions

I won’t open America if I notice that before starting, it is necessary to create a project for the premises as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of existing communications. The thoughtless arrangement of light, sockets, water and sewerage, ventilation and other things in the early stages of repair, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish line it can be very striking, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room . So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a "homemade" and believe in yourself, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, common truths. Find on the Internet and study articles from the category of "20 common mistakes when designing a kitchen", "", "a", etc. From them it will become clear what standard sizes of furniture exist, what kitchen facades are, at what height the wall row of cabinets is hung and what distance is recommended to be observed between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start “drawing” cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large free-standing and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly imagine and know its installation dimensions and take it into account in the design. For what it is necessary and so it should be clear.

Design

Let's get back to my kitchen. As I wrote above, the choice of the concept of my headset was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is the vertical loading of laundry. That is, unlike most washers, in my “working” is the upper plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. This is how the idea of ​​​​a corner kitchen was born, where the sides of the corner are cabinets, and the top is a typewriter. This arrangement is the most rational and gives maximum functionality.

In the picture above, you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill, because I planned to fit the countertop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks were installed for household appliances. Later, laying of tiles on the floor and walls, and wallpapering took place. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I took up drawing the kitchen in AutoCAD, because I was not trained in any PRO100, and I did not set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide the fact that if you master this specialized program, then in the future, according to your finished dimensions of the lockers, it will itself detail them and even offer the best fastener. My AutoCAD drawing came out much simpler, but, at the same time, quite visual.

Editor's Note: You could also use . Special knowledge is not required for use - take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the lockers I got:

• I decided to put the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the possibility of adjusting them in height. In my opinion, aesthetically it looks better than a blank plinth, and besides, there is (albeit limited) access under the lockers (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for leaks from the water supply or sewer). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
• The facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, just in its original form I thought that it would be two cabinets, but I already left the numbering as it is so as not to change) will open up with the help of gas elevators.

• The front of the drying cabinet (2,3) will open upwards using the aventos HF system.

• The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washer) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on ordinary door hinges with a conductor.
• An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, there is only a small drawer under it for storing baking sheets and a grill grate.
• Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers that will be pulled together with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the retractable drawer are easy to look at. To get to things standing in the depths, it is not necessary to conduct archaeological excavations. Shelves, on the other hand, often turn into a "graveyard" of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Detailing and fittings

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your locker should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 wide, 700 high and 300 mm deep, and then you try to fit them. Naturally, you won’t get anything good at the end, because you don’t take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. This is exactly why it is necessary to do detailing - the division of the finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to a large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I will explain a few more points, what comes from where and how.

The height of the floor cabinet. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the countertop is usually 28 or 38mm (I have 38mm). The height of decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm. For the convenience of further calculations, I simply took 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

• The drawer box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

• Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, under which the bottom and back wall are only adjusted (cut out of chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating the installation dimensions, additive and installation of their tandemboxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study and proceed to detailing.

Gas lifts and aventos are mounted on top-row cabinets and are designed to open and hold facades by weight. In the construction market or in the store, the seller will advise you about these things, you just need to tell the material and dimensions of the facade that needs to be opened / held.

So, I present once again the scheme of the kitchen and the detailing that I got at the output.

Kitchen detailing (chipboard, plastic, fiberboard, countertop)

		WHD dimensions		Quantity, pcs	Material	Note
	Cabinet above the fridge
						2 holes under the hinges
	Drying cabinet above the sink					2 holes for hinges in the upper facade; glass cutout at the bottom. Get on the Aventos HF. Lacquered glass.
	Washer closet
						2 holes under the hinges
	Wall cabinet					2 holes for hinges in each facade; glass cutout at the bottom. They sit on door hinges and gas lifts. Lacquered glass.
	kitchen ceiling
	Wash cabinet
						2 holes under the hinges
	Oven cabinet
						Drawer front
						Drawer bottom
	Floor cabinets - 3 pcs					Drawers based on tandem boxes Boyard Swimbox SB 01-02 GR .1/400
						bottom of drawers
						Back wall
						Back wall
	tabletop					* a cutout is made for the window sill
Note: 1 - underlining indicates the side of the part that is glued PVC edge, double underlining means that two sides of the part with this size are pasted over with an edge. If the edge thickness is 1 mm or more, then it must be taken into account when detailing.
Chipboard Kronospan Plastic Abet Laminati 410 Groove Edging Polcemic 50S 06/22 Egger worktop 38 mm, Lazio blue grey, matt. Lakomat glass (2 pcs)

With this detailing, I went to the office that cuts and pasted chipboard, chose the materials that suited my taste and placed an order. For all the material with the work came out 660 dollars (of which 120 for the countertop).

While my order was being made, I was directly engaged in the purchase of all the necessary accessories, hardware, as well as household appliances. Everything I needed for the kitchen is shown in the table below.

Accessories, hardware, household appliances

Name		Quantity, pcs	Price for 1 piece, c.u.	Total, c.u.	Note
Gas lifts
Facade handles
Chrome aluminum legs
Door hinges GTV	with closer
	without closer
Hinges for hanging cabinets
hanging profile
Aventas HF
Boyard tandem boxes	L=400, H=84 and 200				With closers
tray insert
Telescopic guide
hob	Kuppersberg FQ4TGW
Oven	Wirpool AKP 461WH
	polyhedron
TOTAL:

As a result, the cost of the headset (without appliances) was $1270: facades, frames, fittings, countertops, glass.

Assembly of finished products

And now, a few days later, they brought me and unloaded a bunch of boards from laminated chipboard in front of the entrance, sprinkled plastic facades on top, added a couple of sheets of fiberboard and a 38-mm Egger countertop. I distributed all this goodness among the rooms of the apartment, having previously made the necessary sorting of the parts so that I knew exactly where and what closet I have

The most responsible, but at the same time, the most exciting part of the work begins - the assembly of finished products.

Equipment and tools for assembly

I need the following tools for my work:

• corner clamps (when working with confirmations, you can’t go anywhere without them). I bought cheap, flimsy ones on the market and reinforced them with two strips of chipboard. I assembled a kitchen with them, a wardrobe in the room, a chest of drawers and a shoe rack, and I will collect a lot of other things.

• Screwdriver + drill;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Special drill for confirmations (Euro couplers) and a hexagon bit;
• center punch (or awl) and a pair of pencils;
• joiner's corner, tape measure and rulers;
• A set of hammers and a mallet.

Before starting the assembly, I also made several templates for reaming parts for gluing onto wooden dowels, but immediately abandoned this idea in the process of work - confirmations securely and firmly tighten the product.

The collection of products should be carried out on a large flat flat surface and the better, the larger it is.

In order not to get confused in the process of working with the sides of the parts and their orientation, be sure to make marks on them with a pencil like “PR VN” (right sidewall outer side) or “Bottom”, i.e. so that you can understand.

I highly recommend marking and installing fasteners (for example, fasteners for gas lifts or adding telescopic rails for drawers) on individual parts, when they are not yet assembled in a box - you must agree that it is much more convenient to unfold a single part than to twist and turn every time there is a box on the table.

The algorithm of work is simple:

• marking with a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• pinning (possible with an awl or nail) a place for screwing;
• screw tightening.

I definitely advise you to screw it in, because just screwing a screw into a laminated chipboard will not work, it will scroll and slide off, which always causes considerable irritation.

When the markings for fasteners or additives are made, you can begin to assemble the box itself. Here, the main tools are angle clamps, a drill and a screwdriver.

We work on a similar algorithm:

• marking the place for drilling with a confirmation drill using a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• punching;
• fixing parts on corner clamps;
• drilling with a confirmation drill;
• tightening of details by confirmat.

The box is assembled, now it remains to hang the facade on it, attach the hanging loops to the wall and nail the back wall of fiberboard.

The facade is attached to the box on the door hinges without a closer. The holes in the facade for fastening the hinges are cut with a milling cutter with a diameter of 35 mm (in my case, this was taken care of by the office from which I ordered the parts).

Next, we attach mating parts to the facade for the installation of gas elevators and install the elevators themselves. Elevators can be installed in three positions, depending on which the facade will open at three different angles (less than 90, 90 and more than 90 degrees).

In the inner parts of the box we fasten the hinges for hanging.

At the finish, it remains to close the confirmations with plastic plugs, nail the back wall and attach a handle to the facade.

It turned out such a locker, which we will have located above the refrigerator.

Assembling cabinet No. 2,3 with aventos system

Aventos are different types and they are installed on different cabinets. For a drying cabinet, the most convenient is the aventos of the HF system (these are aventos for two facades that open simultaneously in an L-shaped upwards), which I purchased. Installing such a product in a locker is not easy, but it is not some kind of super task. Aventos always comes with detailed, intelligible instructions, following which you will definitely succeed. In my Kessebohmer aventos there was even a special "drilling map" of holes, which simply had to be attached to the lines drawn in advance on the sidewalls (calculated according to the formulas given in the instructions) and drilled directly into it.

We fasten power mechanisms with levers to the sidewalls.

Now it's time for the facades. The upper facade is cast, the lower with a glass cutout. The upper facade is attached to the cabinet on ordinary door hinges, the facades are connected to each other by special overhead Clip Top hinges (opening angle 120 degrees). In the picture below, they are shown by the upper red arrow. The lower arrow points to the holes for the hinges, which were mistakenly drilled on the sharag. I didn’t scold them much, but I solved the problem myself: I glued wooden rounds into the holes and painted them with white paint - anyway, with the aventos open, the back of the facade is not visible to the eye.

Reciprocal levels are also attached to the lower facade to snap levers onto them. Well, here's what it looks like assembled. It remains only to adjust the stroke of the levers and the position of the facades (everything is in the instructions). Drying cabinet No. 2.3 assembled.

Cabinet No. 5,6 in the process of being assembled

Now we will deal with three floor cabinets No. 10. Their main feature is the installation inside retractable systems (tandemboxes).

Again, I repeat, the whole process is carried out according to the additive schemes that are supplied with the product. First, guides are seated and attached to the sides of the cabinet.

Drawer mounted on rails. A latch is snapped into the upper hole, which is attached to the facade.

A latch attached to the front of the drawer.

The system is very convenient, because it allows you to simply remove the front from the drawer in case of emergency. Plus, tandemboxes are equipped with a system for adjusting the facades vertically and horizontally, which is especially convenient when there are a lot of drawers (I have 9 pieces) and you need to fit them together.

Fastening fronts to drawers

We drill holes in the facades and fasten the handles. You need to drill the facade from the outside, and to the inside you need to firmly press a piece of some board, then the drill at the exit from the chipboard will not crumble it and the hole will turn out to be even.

The cabinet with drawers is almost ready.

We complete the assembly of the cabinet by installing decorative aluminum legs. The legs consist of two parts: one (with an external thread) is attached to the bottom of the cabinet with self-tapping screws, the second (the legs themselves) is screwed onto the thread. This system allows you to adjust the height of the legs, for example, to compensate for small uneven floors.

The rest of the floor cabinets (under the sink, under the oven) are not particularly remarkable, their assembly is exactly the same. The only thing they differ from the rest is that there are no back walls in them (it is necessary to connect water and sewage pipes to the sink, and oven free ventilated space for hot air to circulate).

Kitchen installation

So, our products are assembled, now it's time to start installing the kitchen.

wall row

It is now customary to hang a wall row of cabinets not on ordinary blind hinges, but on special furniture hinges with a hook that cling to a metal profile bar screwed to the wall. The advantage of such hinges is that the cabinet already hung on the profile can be adjusted both in height and in depth, which is very convenient for placing the facades of adjacent cabinets in the same plane.

We hang the cabinets of the upper row and, using a screwdriver, adjust the hinges up and down, back and forth so that the facades of adjacent cabinets are in the same plane, and the cabinets themselves hang in level.

bottom row

We tightly compose the cabinets of the floor row, adjust them in height (twisting / unscrewing the legs) and tighten them with intersection bolts.

We cover the cabinets with a countertop and from below, through the side rails (cross bars), we fix the countertop with self-tapping screws. You can also resort to the help of corners.

On the countertop, we mark out places for embedding the sink and hob, drill a through hole so that you can insert a jigsaw blade and cut out pieces of the countertop.

We cover the holes of the countertop with a layer of silicone sealant, and also apply sealant to the front side of the countertop along the edge of the hole. We insert the sink and remove the squeezed out excess sealant with a rubber spatula. The same must be done for the hob, but only a heat-resistant sealant is needed.

Bottom row assembled. The tabletop on the right row is tightly fitted to the window.

Well, here's how it all looks together.

Installation of kitchen ceiling and bar counter

The next stage of work was the installation of the kitchen ceiling and bar counter. The kitchen is small, there is not much space on it, so the choice was made in favor of the bar counter, and not the traditional table, the place for which was only at the entrance to the room, which, you see, is generally inconvenient.

Especially for the ceiling, four parts were cut out of chipboard (the same from which the cabinets were assembled). Two pieces were made with rounding, which will be the completion of the ceiling. The parts were attached to the wall using thickened corners and self-tapping screws, but the bulk of the ceiling fell on the top row cabinets. Nothing complicated.

For the bar counter, a piece of the same Egger tabletop measuring 2000x400 mm was cut out, the edge of which was also made with a radius. It turned out that the rack and the ceiling element above it have identical dimensions.

We drill holes (14x170) in the table top and put them on hidden shelf holders, previously fixed along the free wall.

Usually the recommended installation height of the bar counter is approximately 1100 mm from the floor, but it turned out a little higher for me. The height of my rack was adjusted so that a microwave could fit in the free space between it and the floor row. It somehow turned out like this.

A little later, railing pipes with various hooks, spice jars and trays will appear above and below the counter.

Well, the whole composition was completed by the 50th chrome-plated pipe with a holder for glasses and a shelf for fruits. Under the rack on the pipe I installed a holder with hooks for towels.

While the ordered bar stools were moving, I slightly upgraded the wall above the counter by making for it the most expensive painting I could.

Well, here's what actually came out of it. Railing pipes with hooks are already in place, plus lamps were cut into the ceiling and another holder for glasses was added.

What happened in the end

That's it, my kitchen with my own hands is now ready.

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After completing the renovation in the kitchen, you will probably decide to buy a new kitchen set. As a rule, shops provide assembly services for an additional fee. But why pay money when you can save? After all, assembling a kitchen with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

To assemble the kitchen yourself, you will need a minimum set of tools.

• • Screwdriver - any, even the cheapest, will do. Its presence will greatly simplify the assembly process.
  • Perforator with a set of drills and an adapter for a drill with a drill for wood. It is needed if you want to hang cabinets on concrete wall. For wooden walls You can also use a screwdriver with a drill.
  • Hacksaw or jigsaw to saw off the countertop.
  • You also need to have a hex key for mounting furniture fasteners, some manufacturers add it to the hardware kit.
  • And, of course, the standard tools that should be in every home: a hammer, a corner, a level, a cutter, a tape measure and pliers.

Kitchen assembly process

If you have not dealt with assembling furniture before, then before assembling the kitchen, be sure to study the standard instructions. It schematically shows which parts are used for what, and also indicates the order of work.

If you screw the part in the wrong place, you will have to disassemble it, and this will reduce the strength of the connection. This is especially true for cheap cabinets made of chipboard modules, often the doors of them are pulled out along with the root.

• • First of all, a cross-shaped mount for doors is attached to the side boards. They are screwed with two self-tapping screws into pre-prepared holes.
  • Fasten rails for drawer cabinets to the side walls, then it will be inconvenient to do so.
  • Wooden chopsticks (also often referred to as dowels or wooden dowels) are then inserted into all blind holes to make the initial fasteners. These parts help to assemble a more even frame, and also increase the strength of the structure. It is best to put them on glue. Insert the dowel into one hole, put the second on its end and squeeze them.

• Then, making sure that the parts are even, screw in a furniture screw with a hexagon, it will finally tighten the two parts. A plastic plug is put on top to match the color of the furniture.
• Further, if legs are provided, screw them into place and adjust the height. In cheap kitchens, usually instead of adjustable legs there are ordinary plastic nozzles - which are nailed from below so as not to spoil the panels.
• After assembling the cabinet, nail a sheet of fiberboard to the side wall.
• On wall cabinets, you need to fix the fittings for fastening. Usually now adjustable canopies are used for this. They are attached to the side walls of the cabinet close to the top corners.

You can watch the assembly process of the wall cabinet in this video:

Assembly of drawers

• • The drawer walls themselves are assembled in the same way as cabinets - they are tightened with screws.
  • Collect 3 walls and insert a sheet of fiberboard into the bottom.
  • Then fix the front of the box. For this, an eccentric screed is usually used.

Screed-eccentric for fastening the front door

• To fix it, first screw the screw into the facade, and then insert the end with a hat into the holes on the side walls. On the side parts there is a large round hole inside the cabinet - a socket for the bushing. You need to insert the sleeve into the hole and turn it so that it grabs the screw head that will go to the side. To make it easier to understand its device, just look at the mounting diagram in the photo.
• Next, screw the roller guides to the bottom corners of the box. The roller on the drawer guide should be located at the back, and on the inside - at the front.
• Then simply insert the guides into each other at an angle, this completes the assembly of the drawer.

Kitchen installation

We proceed to the second stage - the installation of the kitchen in place. We do not hang the doors yet, they will interfere.

• First of all, a side cabinet is installed, usually a sink. In order for pipes to pass here, make holes in the hardboard wall in advance.
• Then install the following floor cabinets. Immediately they are adjustable in height and, if necessary, cuts are made in them.
• After installing all the cabinets, tie them together. To do this, use 30 mm self-tapping screws or an intersectional furniture screed. The second option is more reliable, since the screws have too small hats and they can crawl out along with the roots. It will be enough for 4 ties for floor cabinets and 2 pieces for wall cabinets.

sink mount

• • If you decide to install a built-in sink, you need to make a round hole in the countertop. To embed the sink into the countertop, mark out and drill a large diameter round hole. Next, according to the marking, saw off the countertop with a jigsaw and screw it onto the special fasteners that come with the kit.
  • It is most convenient to do this before attaching the countertop. Do not forget to process the joint along the edge with sealant!

You definitely need an assistant who can support the countertop while cutting, otherwise the piece will fall off and tear off part of the coating. To do this work yourself, you can pre-stick masking tape on the countertop. After sawing off a round hole, a piece will remain hanging on the tape.

• The fastening of the built-in plate occurs in the same way, but it is better to do it at the end so as not to damage the equipment.
• Installing a conventional sink on a cabinet is much easier. You just need to screw it on from below with self-tapping screws.

Tabletop fixing

• • Mark the tabletop by adding 1mm overlap from the edges, or mount it close to the wall. It's okay if there is a gap near the wall, you will then hide it with a plinth.
  • Using a fine-toothed jigsaw, cut the table top to size.
  • In the corner kitchen, the worktops are joined using a special metal bar that closes the gap between the two tables. It is screwed to the end of the tabletop.
  • Be sure to close the ends of the plate with a final metal bar. In places where there is no effect of heat, you can use it for this. It is glued with a hair dryer on a flat and clean cut surface.

• • When fixing the tabletop, set it with an allowance in front of about 3 cm so that the edges are even. Fastening takes place from below with self-tapping screws.

Wall panel fixing

• • If you decide not to make an apron made of glass, tiles or mosaics in the kitchen, there is a good and fast way protect the work surface from moisture and grease - wall panels. They are usually sold in sizes of 3 m in length and allow you to quickly and reliably protect the place above the kitchen table.
  • The panels are fastened to ordinary dowels. Hats are hidden by cabinets, so keep this in mind when marking and leave an allowance. Dowels should be placed approximately 1 cm from the edge of the panel.

Wall cabinets must be fixed at least 60 cm above the countertop, otherwise it will be inconvenient to cook.

• To cut a hole for an outlet, you will need a special nozzle for a drill - a crown.

Fixing wall cabinets

Hangers for wall mounting

• Step back from the countertop at least 60 cm and make a mark on the walls. Step back from it to the height of the cabinets, and draw a line for their fastening.
• Drill holes and fasten the bar (tire). On it you hang adjustable suspensions. Fastening to the wall with anchors is more reliable than with dowel-nails.
• Hang the cabinet on the rail by hooking it to the hooks. To make the cabinet hang evenly and close to the wall, adjust the 2 bolts on the hangers by tightening or loosening them.
• Start installation from a corner. If the wall is uneven or has an angle less than 90 degrees, then you will need to fix the bezel to hide the gap.
• Fasten the cabinets with zip ties after installation.

Door fixing

• • Now you can hang the doors on the cabinets. To do this, fix the hinges with self-tapping screws into the round recesses on the facade.
  • Put the door on the cross plates that you screwed in at the very beginning and tighten the bolts.
  • Then close the door and check its position. Adjust it horizontally and vertically with two screws.

Adjust the height of the doors with screws on the hinges

Final work

We close the gap between the table and the wall by installing a plastic plinth. Its first part is fastened with screws to the wall, and a decorative nozzle is snapped on top. To decorate the corners, special plugs are used. Usually hidden wiring can be placed inside the baseboard.
Next is the installation of household appliances,. For a gas stove, fix the hood at a height of 75-85 cm, and for an electric one - 65-75 cm. To hide it in a cabinet, provide an opening for the air duct in the upper wall of the cabinet in advance.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a kitchen with your own hands, and you can easily do it. The main thing is to approach the assembly carefully, as the Russian proverb says: "Measure seven times, cut once." It is because of insufficient measurements that most mistakes are made by inexperienced craftsmen.

Buying a kitchen set is a responsible and joyful business. A special anticipation is felt after bringing it home - any hostess can imagine what kind of decoration of the kitchen it will become and how convenient it will be to work here now. It remains the case for small - to install a headset. There are two options here - contact the experts or assemble it yourself. Why installing yourself is more profitable and how to do it right.

Of course, if there is no man in the house or working with a tool is not his strong point, then the installation of the kitchen will have to be entrusted to specially trained furniture assemblers, whose services any store selling furniture is happy to provide. But if the hands grow from the right place, then the installation will not cause much trouble and can be done independently.

Assembling a kitchen yourself entails many advantages:

• there is no need to wait for a specialist - you can assemble the kitchen at any convenient time;
• you can save a lot of money if the assembly is paid;
• assemblers do not install furniture in place immediately as they are assembled and do not connect communications, so it will be necessary to do this work with your own hands;
• assembly independently guarantees the quality of work, which cannot be said about assembly by unauthorized persons, especially when it comes to free assembly.

Important: installation of the kitchen and installation of equipment is ideally carried out on a day off. Then you can have time to install everything in one day.

What tools will be needed

If we assemble the kitchen ourselves, we need a variety of tools. As a rule, in the master's house it is a must. For fidelity, we list what is necessary in order to assemble the cabinets on our own by modules:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• perforator;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw;
• various drills;
• hex key;
• level;
• pliers;
• roulette.

special instructions

Before you cut the parts and screw them in place, you need to clearly think through everything. All parts of the headset must be disassembled into modules and decomposed into separate parts. Each cabinet has its own fittings. All components of one module should lie together - then the installation and installation of the headset will not cause any special problems and you will not have to waste time looking for the necessary parts and fasteners.

Important: before screwing the parts, you need to make all the markings and work independently exactly on them, without rushing. If the cabinet is assembled incorrectly, then the fasteners will have to be removed and reinstalled. This leads to the fact that the joints become loose and the strength of the cabinets deteriorates.

First steps

Installation of cabinets begins with their assembly. There are subtleties here:

• It is best to fasten the fasteners for the doors first, while the cabinet is not yet assembled. Then it will be easier to hang the doors later;
• Retractable rails for cabinets are also attached before the main assembly and installation takes place - this facilitates further work on your own;
• It is necessary to insert dowels into non-through holes - wooden parts of the dowel. They are designed to increase the strength of the frame, in addition, with the help of dowels it is easier to assemble the cabinets evenly on your own.

Next, the assembly and installation of cabinets begins. First of all, the furniture frame is assembled. After that, the back is nailed. Most often it is a sheet of fiberboard. The back of each module is best nailed with small carnations. Inside the cabinets, fasteners for shelves are inserted into the holes.

The next step is screwing the legs. The legs may be different. Expensive headsets have legs that can be adjusted in height. In inexpensive models, legs, as a rule, do not have such an option. The role of the height regulator in this case is played by thrust bearings - plastic lining. The last step is to hang the doors. By the way, the hitch can be postponed for a while after the modules are fully installed in place and the countertop is installed - it will be easier. By and large, assembling a kitchen with your own hands does not cause trouble if everything is done according to the algorithm.

Important: if there is an assembly instruction, then you must follow it exactly. Then the installation of modules will not cause trouble.

Assembly of boxes

Assembling the boxes should also not be difficult. They are assembled in the same way as the modules themselves and in the same way their frame is tightened with screws for strength.

Lastly, the drawer fronts are attached. Here it is best to use an eccentric screed.

Roller guides are attached at the bottom corners, making sure that the roller is at the back of the guide. The guides are inserted at an angle into each other.

Kitchen installation

After the assembly of the headset is completed, its installation begins.

Mounting the headset is also best done according to a certain algorithm:

1. First of all, you need to put a side or corner cabinet. Most often, a sink is located in this module.
2. Before installation, it is necessary to cut holes for communications - pipes.
3. Then the remaining cabinets are installed, forming a working line. Installation goes in parallel with height adjustment. If necessary, cuts are made so that the modules stand up clearly and evenly and do not sway.
4. As soon as the modules are installed in a line, it is necessary to tie them together to increase the strength of the structure. For this purpose, an intersectional screed is used. But you can get by with simple self-tapping screws 3 cm in size. Screeds are calculated as follows - 4 screeds are needed for floor cabinets, and 2 for wall cabinets.

Washing

In the countertop of the module under the sink, a hole is made under it with a jigsaw. After that, a sink is installed in the hole and the joints are coated with a sealant for sealing. Only after this is the installation of the countertop on the module.

Important: it is more convenient to work together. The installation of embedded equipment is carried out according to the same scheme.

Countertop installation

The worktop is marked out based on the dimensions of the length of the line of floor cabinets plus an overlap on both sides. According to the basting, the desired size of the countertop is sawn off with a jigsaw, after which it is installed.

Ideally, the countertop should cover all the cabinets and go all the way to the wall. If this is not the case and each module has its own countertop, then the joints between them are hidden by a metal bar. This not only gives the design an aesthetic appearance, but also plays a practical function - so water and food debris do not get into the joints and there is no deformation of the countertop material.

All edges must be glued with a special furniture edge. In this case, a furniture hair dryer or a simple iron is used.

Wall cabinets

From the level of the tabletop upwards, you need to measure 60 centimeters. This will be the bottom line of the cabinets. Then, from the basting up, set aside the height of the wall cabinets. Mounting points are marked along this line for each cabinet and holes for fasteners are made.

Wall cabinets are hung from the corner. When all cabinets are suspended, they are also pulled together with ties for strength and reliability of the structure.

After all these actions, we get an almost finished kitchen set, standing at the place where it was planned to be placed according to the project. Now it remains only to hang the doors and all work can be considered finished.

Door fixing

• The hinges are fixed with screws in special recesses under them on the doors.
• The doors are put on already attached cruciform plates under them. Fasteners must be well tightened.
• After that, the doors are closed and see how evenly they hang.

Do-it-yourself kitchen assembly (video)

Conclusion

You can assemble your headset without any problems if you follow the instructions. Besides, independent work will save a lot of money and make the quality high.

Kitchen furniture from a workshop or factory comes in a disassembled state. You can entrust the assembly to specialists, but few people are able to do better than the owner. Only those that work "as for themselves", and these are extremely rare. Therefore, many people prefer to assemble a kitchen set on their own. It will take a decent amount of time, but the quality will be on top.

Tools

Before assembling a kitchen set, you need to assemble a tool for work. Simple tools are required, but they greatly speed up and simplify the work.

It's nice to have a plane builder or a laser level. With it, placing cabinets in the same plane is much easier.

Assembly of kitchen cabinets

Disassembled kitchen set is a set of planks different sizes, some fittings and a set of fasteners. From all this it is necessary to assemble cabinets. Usually there are mounted and floor. How to assemble a kitchen set, in what order - the choice is yours. It is more convenient for some masters to assemble them in pairs - the upper one, then the lower one, and install them like that. But there are two other ways: first collect all the upper ones, hang them on the wall, then all the lower ones. They do it and vice versa - they assemble and install the lower ones, then the upper ones. In general, any method is correct, do as you like.

The correct installation of the confirmation is in the middle of the chipboard

Assembly of wall cabinets

In any case, we begin to collect cabinets. An ordinary wall cabinet consists of two side panels, a top, a bottom, a back wall made of HDPE and two doors - a facade. The build order is:

Hinge installation

They finally hang the facades (doors) after they assemble and put everything in place, but put the hinges from the very beginning. They are mortise (considered more reliable) and overhead.

Types of hinges - mortise overhead

The attachment points are marked on the sidewall and the door with holes. We fold the sidewall and the door on a flat surface (table or floor) close to each other, aligning the marks. We put the loops in place (they are included). Screw first to the sidewall, then to the facade. The door at the same time turns out to be slightly lower in level than the sidewall. Under it, put a bar of a suitable size or a folded rag so that it is on the same level, then we fasten the loop.

We disassemble the loop itself (it consists of two detachable loops that are connected with a screw. We unscrew this screw, set the doors aside, and work further with the sidewalls.

Assembling the body

We attach the top and bottom to the sides. They are attached to confirmations - special furniture fasteners that come with the kit, with a hexagon head. If there is a corresponding bit, we put it on a screwdriver, if not, we work with a manual wrench.

How to assemble a kitchen set: assembling the cabinet body

The places for installing confirmations are marked on the outer part of the sidewalls. We fold the sidewall and the upper part, install the fasteners, then the bottom, and then the second sidewall.

We turn the “face” down, lay and align the sheet of laminated fiberboard, which serves as the back wall. It is nailed with small carnations or staples from a construction stapler. First, they are nailed in the corners, carefully aligning the edges, then in the middle of each side and further, dividing each section in half. As a result, the installation frequency is 1 nail/staple approximately 10 cm.

Installation of corners or hinges, shelf holders

The hinges on which wall-mounted kitchen cabinets are hung are different, they are installed in different ways. We'll talk more about them below. Shelf holders are also different in material and shape, but they are attached basically the same way - into the holes in the wall. Under them, holes are drilled in the sides. Sometimes we install plastic chopsticks (small hollow plastic cylinders) in them, hammer them in by lightly tapping with a furniture hammer, then we put shelves stops in them. But most metal stops (namely, these are probably needed in kitchen cabinets) are simply placed in the hole.

Shelf holders

Actually everything, how to assemble a hinged Kitchen Cabinet you know. For a visual demonstration, watch the video. Floor cabinets with shelves without drawers are also assembled, only first legs are installed on the bottom and the upper part is a table top, and it is common to all cabinets and is placed after all floor cabinets are installed and fastened.

Assembling a cabinet with drawers

We continue to collect the kitchen set with our own hands. Now the most difficult moment is cabinets with drawers. The general procedure is as follows: install the hinges, the bottom and the back wall. The top-tabletop is placed after all the cabinets are assembled and fastened together with ties. There are more features - you need to attach drawer guides to the sidewalls. Go.

Installing the legs

Before assembling the kitchen set, legs are installed further to the bottom. You can install the legs even after the frame is assembled, but twisting a heavy nightstand is not very easy. In any case, it is best if they are adjustable - the floor is not always perfectly flat. With adjustable legs, it is possible to set them so that the load is redistributed to all legs. On small cabinets - up to 80 cm long - put 4 stops, more than 80 cm 6 reference points are needed.

Installation of legs on the lower cabinet of the kitchen set

If the cabinet has a partition, we place the legs under it. If there is no partition - in the middle. 5-8 cm recede from the edges, screwed onto self-tapping screws 15 mm long (with a chipboard thickness of 18 mm). In most finished furniture, under the legs there is also a countersink - holes of small diameter. Align the slots in the legs with the holes, install the screws.

Installation of rails and assembly for drawers

On the sides of the lower cabinets there are markings for the installation of guides (they are included). For their fastening, an M6 * 13 euro screw is used. We set the required number of guides on both sidewalls.

Installation of rails in a cabinet with drawers

The boxes are assembled with screws 4*45. Guides are installed first. Depending on the design, they can be mounted on the walls of the box or on the lower edge of the sidewall. If there are markings (holes) on the wall, then they are placed on the sidewalls. If not - to the end. To be sure, look at the assembly instructions. There should be an installation process in the pictures.

How to assemble a kitchen set: drawer assembly diagram

After the guides are connected, the sidewalls are connected to the back wall, then the front wall is installed, then the bottom. Before installing the bottom, check the diagonals. They must match to the millimeter. The bottom is fastened with nails or staples.

Assembling the body

The assembly of the case is already familiar: we attach the lid to the sidewalls, then the lower part with the legs. We put the cabinet in place, twist the legs so that the top cover is at the desired height and is horizontal. We check the horizon with a bubble or laser level. Then install the covers.

Features of the assembly of the corner cabinet

The main feature is that in budget kitchen sets the bottom consists of two parts (to reduce costs). If this cabinet provides for the installation of a sink, the back wall is almost absent, but there are several couplers-collets that give rigidity to the structure. Otherwise, everything is the same as when assembling a conventional cabinet with doors.

How to hang cabinets in the kitchen

Even before assembling a kitchen set, it is necessary to purchase canopies and intersectional furniture ties for attaching wall cabinets. Let's start with canopies, they come in different types, so we'll talk about them.

You already know how to assemble a kitchen set, you need to figure out how to install it in place. Hanging kitchen cabinets are mounted on the wall. They are fastened with furniture canopies. They come in the form of metal plates with holes for fasteners, but there are also more complex designs. Cheaper ones are ordinary metal plates. They can be different shapes, are made of ordinary or galvanized steel.

simple awnings

The most common option (top left) is a plate with two small holes for fasteners and one large one (a hook or a screw head installed in the wall is inserted into it). It is installed on the end of the sidewalls - on the right and left. At heavy load this type of canopy can break out, since the fasteners are at a small distance from each other and the chipboard can fall apart. The bottom option is more reliable - more fasteners, but there is still a risk.

Furniture canopies - types

The other two types of furniture canopies are more reliable, since one of the screws will also be installed in the cabinet lid, that is, the load will be distributed over a larger area.

The corners performed well. One edge of this canopy is attached through the cover. A through hole is made, a bolt with a washer is installed at the bottom, and a nut is tightened from above (also with a washer). They are installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge, if a large load is expected, you can put three or four pieces, which is impossible with previous models.

Kitchen cabinets are hung on corners with lining - to compensate for the difference in the thickness of the apron

The common disadvantage of all these mounts is that they are not adjustable. As hung, so be it. There is no way to move away from the wall or towards the wall. If the kitchen apron protrudes above the plane. walls, you have to mount a bar on the wall or select a lining for each fastener (a piece of plywood, a piece of wood, etc.). The second drawback is that a separate hook or dowel must be installed under each canopy. Not very comfortable.

More modern furniture canopies for kitchen cabinets

Adjustable

A more complex and expensive canopy consists of a plastic housing, a metal canopy and an adjustment system that allows you to move it forward / backward and up / down. These canopies are attached to the side walls of the cabinet from the inside, in back wall cut a small hole. Paired with these canopies is a mounting rail or bar. It is attached to the wall, hooks of canopies cling to its upper ledge. Installing and removing wall cabinets with this mounting system is very simple, and they have a sufficient “load capacity” of 20-50 kg per canopy (depending on the model and manufacturer).

How to install a kitchen set

As already mentioned, the order of installation of lockers is arbitrary. You can first hang the top then the bottom or vice versa. It doesn't matter. The order of installation is important: they always start from the corner. How even this first cabinet will be exposed will determine how easy further installation will go.

The mounting height of wall cabinets depends on the height of the "users", but not lower than 45 cm from the level of the countertop. When hanging cabinets on the wall, mark a horizontal line. It can be drawn using a bubble or water level, but the easiest way is to deploy a plane at the required height using a level or a plane builder. The top edge of the mounting plate is set along this line or the cabinets are leveled when mounted on conventional canopies.

The task is both simple and difficult at the same time - to set the cabinets so that they are on the same level, and their walls are vertical and horizontal. In this case, there will be no problems during operation.

Furniture intersection screeds

Because kitchen furniture consists of separate cabinets, they are fastened together. There are two options - install, then fasten, or fasten first, then hang. The second option is possible with the presence of assistants - even hanging two fastened cabinets alone is not an easy task.

Fasten the cabinets together with the help of intersection screeds. They are of different diameters and different lengths - under chipboard of different thicknesses. On one wall you need at least two screeds. They are placed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loops - a little lower or a little higher. Two cabinets are placed in the same plane, their walls are fastened with clamps, a through hole is made - according to the diameter of the screed into which the fasteners are installed, it is tightened with a screwdriver or a screwdriver.

How to install a countertop on a kitchen set

To assemble the kitchen set completely, you need to install the countertop. It is fixed after the cabinets are pulled together. Steel corners are installed on the walls, with which the countertop is fixed. For subtleties in the processing of ends and cutouts for the sink, see the video.

How to process slices of laminated chipboard worktops, see the following video. It is useful for those who want to assemble a kitchen set according to all the rules.

Video on assembling kitchen furniture