Chipboard - the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically looking internal structure of the product, edging is performed from the end - the installation of special decorative panels made of melamine, PVC or other available types of synthetic plastics.
Why else edge furniture
In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several other equally important tasks:
Where to hem
Furniture manufacturers often edging only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this looks quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can result in certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal chipboard structure.
If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, it is quite possible to do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with an ordinary iron.
Do not be too lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will analyze in detail how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edge materials
The edging of open surfaces of furniture can be performed using different decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
How to glue the edge with an iron
Edging in production is done with a tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, which ensures the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to stick the edge, several rollers are used, tightly pressing it to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove the remnants of glue and base material and grind the junction until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with an already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed similarly:
You can learn more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard in the video below:
Sticking a U-shaped profile on the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have discussed this method before. Such an edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.
The presence of micro-gaps between the edge of the U-profile and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or in the bathroom, therefore, edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order a tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on the machine will ensure perfect evenness and accuracy of application decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying a melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the lowest price.
In the manufacture or repair of furniture, craftsmen have to finish the edge of the product. For this, a special end edge made of PVC is most often used. Several popular ways to glue the specified frame on chipboard are described later in this article.
How to mount self-adhesive PVC edge
Polyvinyl chloride-based edging is sold in two versions. In the first version, a layer of glue is applied to its lower part at the factory. In another version, the edge is sold without it, and the glue has to be applied independently.
If the material has an adhesive layer, it must first be heated. After heat treatment, the adhesive will become tacky and the edge will easily stick into place. This is done with the help of an iron, which must be switched to the "synthetic" mode.
The edge is attached to the end on which it must be glued. In this case, the edge completely covers the end face of the workpiece. Then gently, with the help of an iron, the edge is heated. But you shouldn't do it directly. It is better to iron the product through a layer of newspaper.
It is easy to stick such material. As it heats up, the glue dissolves and as soon as this happens, the iron moves on. The edge itself is well pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. So they act until the edge is glued to the part along the entire length.
Installing the edge with a building hair dryer
By the way, you can glue the edge without an iron. Sometimes it is more convenient to use a building hair dryer. To do this, the edge must be heated on the reverse side, where there is a layer of glue. When the glue becomes sticky, the edge is applied to its place, pressed and smoothed.
How to glue the PVC edge on the "Moment"
If the product does not have an adhesive layer, you need to take the "Moment" and apply it yourself. But before applying the glue, you should check the end of the workpiece for quality. There should be no debris, dust and sawdust. The butt must be clean and strong.
Glue is applied immediately to both surfaces. That is, on PVC edge and on the end of the workpiece. At the same time, you should not rush. It is necessary to wait until the glue begins to set and only after that the edge can be glued in place with high quality.
While gluing the frame, it is strongly pressed against the workpiece and smoothed out. It does not hurt to roll the edge with a hard roller.
How to remove excess edge
If the edge sticks well the first time, you can proceed to the final stage. If not, the procedure is repeated. You need to apply more glue to the problem area and press it hard or roll it with a roller.
How to remove excess? The fact is that the frame is usually wider than the workpiece itself, so its extra width must be removed. This is done with a regular file by gently chipping.
The file is taken with both hands and the plane is pressed against the protruding edge. At the same time, it breaks off and becomes flush with the workpiece. The frame should be pricked towards the workpiece, and not away from it - so there is less risk that the edge will be damaged. However, if the PVC edge was glued with high quality, it pricks perfectly and this part of the work never causes any special complications.
Final grinding of the material
To finish the job of gluing the PVC edge, you need to take fine sandpaper and sand down the flaws, if any. All! The frame is glued on and ready to use.
Today I again tried to glue 0.4 mm PVC edge with an iron. My previous attempts failed (the edge melted before the glue, shrank even at the lowest heat levels. In general, nothing worked). Based on these experiments, I concluded that this is not possible at all. I confess, I was wrong - thanks to the guys - they convinced me. I picked up another iron - newer and again took up experiments.
Since I don’t have a glue applicator, I decided to use the method of applying glue from the melamine edge directly to the workpiece, which I also read about somewhere on the web. For work, I needed an iron (more precisely, two - see below), a sanding block (best not with an abrasive, but with felt - it will also flash in subsequent photos), a melamine edge - any color, a PVC edge (which we will glue) and a metal ruler or here is such a square. I will give a larger view of both types of edges (the photo shows that PVC is without glue, while melamine has a thermal adhesive layer applied).
To begin with, we fix the workpiece on a workbench, preferably vertically. 
Then we apply a piece of melamine edge to it and smooth it with a hot iron (we set the heating regulator to the second position).
Having ironed in one direction, we begin the movement of the iron in the other, tearing off the edge until the glue has cooled. 
We see that the glue remains on the workpiece. 
Another photo, more visual. It can be seen that there is almost no glue left on the melamine tape, while it is present on the workpiece. 
Now we cut off a piece of PVC tape of the desired length (with a small traditional margin) 
At first I tried to glue it again with my old iron (letting it cool beforehand) the result is deplorable. The edge immediately shriveled up. 
Then I took up the next generation iron (which I wringed out from my mother-in-law) and set it to the very minimum. 
Moved the edging tape to the right so that the deformed piece did not lie on the surface to be treated and began to smooth it with an iron. Things are progressing more slowly than with. 
Warming up in one direction, we begin to move the iron in the opposite direction, smoothing the edge tape after it with the palm of your hand. 
Surplus from the ends lends itself perfectly to simple scissors. 
The cut is perfectly even and does not require additional finishing. (but if necessary, you can rub a bar with a fine abrasive a couple of times).
To trim the overhangs on the edges, it is advisable to lay the detail horizontally .. Personally, it’s so much more convenient for me. They, as in the case of melamine, lend themselves perfectly to a metal ruler, driven at an angle shown in the photo. 
The cut is a little rough. It should be polished. 
This is done with a felt bar, with which we make several movements along the edge at an angle.
Turning the workpiece over, I found a non-glue zone. Not pleasant, but not fatal. 
Again we take the iron and press the non-glued area for 20-30 seconds. 
Then we change the iron to a felt bar, with which we also press it until the glue cools. 
The result is such a PVC-sealed butt end. 
This technique is quite suitable for large parts, especially when melamine edging is not suitable and edging is not available for some reason. But in terms of time, it is quite costly. 
If you yourself make furniture from laminated chipboard or MDF, then after cutting the sheets, you need to protect their end parts, which will increase the service life of the product and give it a beautiful appearance. For this, PVC edge for furniture is often used, but there are other varieties. In this article we will talk about all types, the need for edging and how to stick it with your own hands.
Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, PVC, ABS or other material. It protects and decorates the place of the cut. In the production of cheap furniture from chipboard edge simply necessary, as it saves people from exposure to harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture ingress.
Edge types
The following types of furniture edges are most popular. 
- Melamine edge with glue - the most budgetary, but not the highest quality look. It is afraid of moisture and can fall off over time (even without mechanical impact), it easily cracks and wears off at the corners. The only plus is the pre-applied adhesive layer, so melamine edging remains a popular option in the home.
- PVC furniture edge 2 and 0.4 mm is the best option. It is much more stable and durable. A thickness of 0.4 mm is usually used for processing hidden places, and 2 mm are glued to the outer ends, which will be visible. However, its application requires a special edge processing machine, so it is used only in production.
- ABS edging is a more environmentally friendly analogue of the previous option, which is less common on the market.
- Mortise T-profile - inserted into a milled groove at the end of the chipboard. It was popular in those days when a special machine for PVC edging was rare, and there were a lot of milling machines in the workshops.
- Consignment P-profile C18 is a good option, because it can be used for chipboard at home. Usually, the C18 P-profile is simply put on the end and glued to liquid nails. Minus - the edges protruding by a few millimeters, under which dirt is clogged. On the other hand, this feature is very convenient if you are cutting chipboard with your own hands, large edges will hide uneven cuts and chips. This type is often used for.
- PVC edge 2 mm - 40 rubles;
- PVC edging 0.4 mm - 25 rubles;
- edge for chipboard made of melamine - 25 rubles;
- in addition, you will have to pay for the processing of curved sections.
- On the inner inset shelf, only the front face is processed with a layer of 2 mm.
- Top overlay cover - from all sides (rear face 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
- The front of the drawer is processed on all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.
When buying furniture, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the processing of the ends. It is better not to take furniture with melamine treatment, as it will be short-lived.
Mortise T-shaped edge 
Profile C18
For gluing on the machine, a special melt adhesive for PVC edges is used. It is sold in the form of granules, after heating it becomes liquid. The adhesive is applied to the tape either when heated or during the manufacture of the tape.
Edging chipboard
To make the edge for a tabletop or cabinet beautiful and durable, in the best possible way will order edging in production. Usually this is done in the same place where chipboard is bought and ordered.
Approximate prices for application (per 1 linear meter together with the material):
Rehau PVC edging is the most popular in Russia, it has a wide selection colors, so you can choose a color for any chipboard. The width of the tape is different - from 15 to 45 mm. 
To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: in what places to apply it and what thickness. Those places that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4 mm PVC to save money (for example, back and bottom edges). All visible places are treated with PVC 2 mm. Where the joint will be attached to the joint with another part, processing is not needed. 
The difference between PVC coating 0.4 and 2 mm
Let's take an example.
To simplify the calculations, you can use special furniture programs, they create a project automatically. As a result, in order to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It will not be very cheap, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.
Glue the edge yourself
For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edge with glue, which is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repair old furniture- do not carry a few small boards into the workshop. To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the tabletop, it is better not to be too lazy and turn to production, or still use an overlay profile, because melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.
For gluing, an old Soviet iron or a building hair dryer is best suited. The thermostat of the iron is set to about 2.5 positions. In addition, you will need a rag, a knife, fine sandpaper and a stand for fixing parts.
You can also use an iron to remove the old edge tape. To do this, it is heated and pry with a spatula or knife.
In this video you can see how to stick a 2 mm edge at home:
To achieve a really good result, it is still better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too big, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to imitate wood or a plain version.
Everyone knows a fact that often occurs during edge banding - this is melting of the PVC edge, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.
There is a problem of wavy formation on 2 mm thick edges after scraping, edge delamination from the part, edge roughness of 0.4 mm, whitish edges and many more problems.
It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case deeper than to write off everything on the quality of the edges.
So, you should first consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage on this stage in detail, we are talking about the use of PVC edges only.
The process consists of several stages:
gluing
Facing
Overhangs milling
Cycling
Polishing
Bonding of PVC edges.
Regardless of the type of machine, edge bonding is carried out using glue - melt.
The likelihood of marriage at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:
Make the most suitable settings by trial and experiment
Choose a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature
Take into account the parameters of chipboard (moisture, friability)
The edge melts when glued.
If you use a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that the permissible temperatures declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape, and not to the part. We recommend changing the working temperature of the glue bath.
After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, the surface roughness appears:
A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the wrong selection of glue - melt.
The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right glue - melt. Bumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.
It will be possible to correct the problem by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the tuberosity will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.
When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:
Such a problem is easily solved. Just move the additional pressure rollers.
Too noticeable seam between the edge and the end of the part.
When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the adhesive for visual merging of the adhesive seam of the edge and laminated chipboard.
The edge is melted on curved parts.
This problem is also worth looking at in terms of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.
So, for example, for manual machines, when the part moves around a fixed adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.
For equipment with automatic feed, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edgeband.
Milling of overhangs, scraping.
After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.
This problem occurs if the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.
Increase cutter speed and decrease edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.
Chips formed at the edges of the edge.
Chips on the PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.
They may indicate that the speed of rotation of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both at the same time.
Polishing.
In order for the edge of the edge to be well polished, all the remnants of chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel with a separating liquid applied to the chipboard surface.
Conclusion:
Based on the above, we recommend that you do not immediately write off bad edge banding for when changing suppliers.
In order to make sure that the edge does not fit, it is necessary to check its use on several modes / machines, check whether the temperature and feed rate are set correctly, take into account the composition of the adhesive and much more.
Of course, the quality of the edges primarily affects the veneering process, based on many years of experience in the supply of edge bands, we recommend that you choose materials based not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.
So, in order not to spoil the product / part at the stage of edge banding, it is necessary:
Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges
Pay attention to how much the importer works in the market
How many suppliers/factories the importer has (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).
We offer to solve your problems at the edge banding stage.
You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the "LUX" edge, save without loss in quality, using the STANDARD PVC edge. ().
We are happy to solve all the problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program / in production, we accept a full refund.
We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edging materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.
