After the decision to breed bees is made, it is necessary to acquire several families and take care of their housing. The swarm is growing rapidly and as a result, new houses are needed. You can buy them, or you can make your own. Before starting work, you need to know all the subtleties of how to make a beehive for bees yourself. There are a lot of hive types and each has its pros and cons. Before you make a hive with your own hands, the drawings are initially carefully studied.

hive types

Making hives with your own hands is not a difficult task. Before you begin, you need to understand that the evidence differs in size, design and material.
By design, the hive is divided into:

• collapsible;
• non-separable.

Today, non-separable hives have become less popular. Most beekeepers use handmade frame evidence for bees.
Frame houses are divided into:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Horizontal or lounger, is a single-hull structure with a possible increase in different sides. These clues are suitable for inexperienced beekeepers due to their ease of use. There is one drawback - they are large and heavy. The vertical structure consists of several buildings. Plus, it's lightweight and easy to move around.
These two forms have more than one section, they are separated by a partition, which allows you to change the volume in different directions.

The most famous designs

Dadanovsky hive

One of the popular designs that is installed in many apiaries. Received its love because of its ease of use and spaciousness. It can be made with your own hands from wood, and it consists of 12 frames, which can be supplemented if desired. During the summer period and after an increase in the family, the hive can be enlarged with the help of additional buildings.

Alpine

A multi-hull hive built in the likeness of a hollow. Received great popularity due to the similarity with the natural living conditions of wild bees.

This structure is ideal for places with limited space. It has no partitions and holes for ventilation. Fresh air enters the inside of the hive through the notch.

Ruta

This dwelling is suitable for honey plants living in warm regions, because due to regular rearrangements of the buildings, the thermal effect inside the dwelling is disturbed. Ruta contains 6 cases of 10 frames.

Cassette

These hives have become popular due to the emergence of new bee diseases. This design has thin partitions, in connection with this, the swarm creates a microclimate for itself.

Important! It is built from natural material, impregnated with wax.

Ideal solution for inexperienced beekeepers. It can be quickly made by hand. They consist of 20 frames and insulated side walls, so honey plants survive the winter cold very well. Ukrainian lounger is easy to maintain.

Beehive

The hive is thin-walled, the wall thickness is 20 mm. Suitable for warm climate regions. The house has a lot of advantages - the buildings are light, easy to build with your own hands, very practical.

How to make evidence with your own hands step by step

The principle of operation for all types is the same. Before you make a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know the exact dimensions. 20 frame horizontal bee hive, step by step instructions:

1. We cut parts from a board four cm wide. These parts will serve as the front and back walls of the hive. Lateral, cut out from a board three cm long.
2. We assemble the structure so that all walls except the front one are in contact with the bottom, and the front one rises from the bottom by one and a half cm. This distance will serve as an entrance from below in the future. The corners are joined in a quarter and fastened with nails.
3. We make the floor from a board 3.5 cm thick. The bottom should look like a shield.
4. Ceilings are built from boards: L-47.8 cm, thickness - 1 cm.
5. We construct a roof. It can be made flat, single-sided or double-sided. This is the only part that can be upholstered with a metal sheet.
6. For the northern regions, the lounger must be insulated on both sides.

Do-it-yourself hive-bed for 20 frames

The sunbed consists of a bottom, a roof and walls. The frame is built from shields. Dimensions of the front part: 87x37. The height of the back wall is 87x34. The length of the side shields is 44x49 cm. The size of the bottom: 84x54.5, thickness 3.5 cm.
You can make bee evidence with your own hands from:

• plywood;
• polystyrene;

Simplicity in construction, with your own hands, is that the foam is inexpensive and reliable. Building from this material is simple and profitable. Before you build a beehive for bees with your own hands, you need to know the dimensions. The size of the future hive can be very diverse, it depends on the number of frames that will be there. To find out the width, you need to multiply the number of frames by 3.75. The length is calculated: the length of the frame plus 1.4. The height is calculated: add the height of the frame to the height of the folds.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Initially, you should decide on the size and start construction in stages.
2. We put stencils of the future house on the foam sheet.
3. We cut out future walls and clean the corners with sandpaper.
4. To fasten all the details, cut out the quarters and use nails and self-tapping screws to connect.
5. The bottom is made of galvanized sheet.
6. The roof must be flat or pitched. After fastening the roof, it is weighted.
7. Lettki perform standard.

After the construction of the hive is completed, it is necessary to make frames. They consist of: top, bottom and side bars. It is made from dried, natural material.
Dimensions according to GOST:

• top and side - B-2.5 cm
• top rail - H-2 cm;
• lower rail - B - from 1.5 to 2.5 cm;
• H - 1 cm;
• dimensions depend on the type of hive, dimensions according to GOST - 43.5x30.
  (H-height; B-width; L-length)

frame scheme

Frame

The central part of the hive is a four-walled box. It has a bee nest. As the bee family increases, the bodies can be pointed at each other. According to the number of buildings, houses are divided into: single, double-hull and multi-hull (from 3 or more). The wall thickness should be 35 mm. This size will help the swarm to overwinter well. The number of frames in the case can be from 16 to 24.

The parts prepared for the body are connected with nails or PVA glue. A cut is made in the lower part of the front wall: B-4cm, H-1cm. This slot will serve as an entrance and exit for the swarm. Also, at the bottom of the case, a hole is drilled for ventilation. The made case is treated on the outside with a water-repellent material and painted in White color.

Important! On the case, it is necessary to make notches on the sides, 7mm below the top of the case. They will serve as handles for easy transportation from place to place.

Roof

The roof is made from a board 2 cm thick. From the prepared boards we make a structure in the form of a shield and, to prevent the board from rotting, we cover it with a tin sheet.

Important! When building a hive, a tin sheet is used only to cover the roof, it is not used for wall cladding.

Most beekeepers place a mesh on top of the hive for extra ventilation when transporting bee houses. It is also necessary to isolate the swarm from the outside world.

Bottom

For regions with a cold climate, the bottom is made of two layers of boards with insulating backfill. In the southern regions, insulation is not required, therefore, it is made from a single board.

The bottom is made of bars. Three side bars have standard dimensions - 57x6.5x3.5. The bars that will be installed in the back are 44.5x6.5x3.5. In each bar, at a distance of 2 cm from the top edge, it is necessary to make puzzles. After all the details are cut out, we proceed to assemble the parts of the structure. The bottom should be assembled with the letter "P". Grooves are needed to install the floor. The arrival board is made from a 5 cm protruding beam, the front bottom beam.
The bottom, for convenience, should be removable and double-sided.

1. Left side wall. 2. Front top bar. 3. Arrival board (notch valve). 4. Inclined board arranged in a notch. 5. Front lower block of the entrance hole. 6. Bar for fixing the bottom mesh. 7. Grid. 8. Middle bar of the back wall. 9. Lower bar of the back wall. 10. Upper bar of the back wall. 11. Flooring bottom. 12. Letkovy insert.

Sample Toolkit

Before you start making a hive, you need to prepare the following tools:

• wooden hammer;
• awl;
• wire;
• pliers;
• nails and screws;
• measuring tape;
• perforator, welding machine and Bulgarian;
• board 32x18, 12 mm plywood;
• insulation;
• a metal sheet;
• PVA, paint, brushes.

Blueprints

Drawings are more convenient to use ready-made.

Due to the large number of frames and housings, it will be difficult for a beginner beekeeper to make a multi-hull hive.

This type of hive is a large, long box. The floor and roof fit snugly into the structure itself. Drawings of the manufactured structure:

When designing a multi-hull house, you must follow a few rules:

1. The bottom can be made by anyone. The removable bottom makes it much easier to care for insects.
2. It is better to make the roof of the hive flat, for more convenient transportation.
3. Frames should be with side bars and have side bars.
4. For a family of bees, you need to make a feeder from a nomadic mesh.
5. The roof is assembled after the assembly of the entire structure and after the stage of insulation.
   The house should be warm, comfortable and airtight. Otherwise, the swarm will get sick, will not endure the winter cold and will not bear honey well.

Video

When deciding to go into beekeeping, you will inevitably be faced with the choice of a hive system. Well, having decided, you need to decide whether to purchase ready-made dwellings for bees or make them yourself. Self-production will significantly increase the profitability of beekeeping. You need to consider before you make beehives for bees with your own hands - the drawings are of paramount importance.

Hive systems and their assembly schemes

Since the invention by the Ukrainian beekeeper Petr Ivanovich Prokopovich of the first collapsible frame hive in 1814, many different modifications have been invented. We will look at the most successful hive systems that have received the greatest distribution. It should be noted that there is no universal solution. Each beekeeper who selects hives takes into account the following factors:

Today, using the capabilities of the Internet makes it easier to make beehives with your own hands. Dimensions, drawings, online videos are publicly available within the World Wide Web. You can find everything: what the hive should consist of, characteristics, what devices are used for manufacturing, production step by step.

Dadan-Blatt's invention

The hive was created by a Frenchman, in the USA by Charles Dadant. After his death, the project was improved by the Swiss Blatt. The classic design has one nest box with internal dimensions of 450 mm wide and 450 mm deep - a Dadan hive for 12 frames. The drawing is shown below.

Above the nest compartment there are two extensions for a half-frame, then a liner and a roof.

The frame of the lower case is 300 mm high and 435 mm wide (without hangers). Such dimensions allow the bees to fit the brood with a strip of honey on top. This is important for the life of the family during the free periods. The lower Dadanovsky building is able to accommodate the nest of a strong family. It contains enough food for wintering outside.

Sunbeds

The 300th frame is popular in the post-Soviet space. In addition to the ten and twelve frame hives of Dadan, it is used in common beds for 16, 20 or 24 frames. In these structures, the development of the bee community occurs in a horizontal plane. To protect empty space or unoccupied frames, a front board is used, which is rearranged depending on the strength of the family.

The figure shows a twenty frame version of the design.

An identical view has a sun lounger hive for 24 frames. The drawing, the dimensions of which will be increased by 137 mm in length, will fit 4 frames more.

As mentioned above, the 300th frame holds enough food for wintering, however, it is not ideal for mid-latitudes. When the club reaches the top bar, the bees are stressed. Movement along the frames in winter is a necessary measure.

An interesting solution was the Ukrainian lounger. In it, the frame described above is inverted vertically, that is, 300 mm wide and 435 mm high. The narrow high format allows the bee club to move like in a hollow tree trunk - from the bottom up (see diagram).

The most capacious is the Vladimir sunbed. It is designed for 32 frames 435 by 450 mm. The walls of the hive are framed - two sheets of plywood with polystyrene foam between them. Large volume allows you to keep several families at the same time through blind partitions, with the possibility of uniting for the main bribe.

The advantages of all sunbeds include:

• accessibility of the nest for the beekeeper;
• no need for substitution of cases;
• ideal for a beginner or an amateur who observes all the processes in a bee colony;
• suitable for operations with frequent reformatting of the nest (obtaining royal jelly, hatching queens).

The main disadvantages are the bulky design, the need for time-consuming framework work. In this regard, these hives are not suitable for commercial beekeeping, more for the household.

Hive Ruta

The modern technology of industrial keeping of bees is not possible without the use of a multi-hull hive. The most common system in the world is the root system..

The frame differs from Dadanov's in height, it is 230 mm. This size allowed to reduce the weight of the filled body. This solved the problem of the beekeeper's labor costs for working with each individual frame. There was an opportunity to make substitution or a fence of the whole case. There are enough of them 4 pieces per season, but you can not be limited to this number. The bottom is more practical to make removable. The design is suitable for transportation during roaming.

Disadvantages of the hive: there is little space for food for wintering in one building. The solution is substitution of subsidies or wintering on two buildings.

Some beekeepers, for example, A.N. Kuznetsov, create universal hives that allow you to work with the Dadan and Rut frames.

Cebro uses a 300 frame in his multi-hull hive, but his design is very bulky and completely stationary.

Horned

The bee house got its peculiar name for the pins protruding from the body. The protrusions are needed to fix the structure. This type includes the palyvoda hive, in which all elements are simplified as much as possible. Minimal costs required homemade production structures called horned beehive. The drawings are shown below.

Making such a hive is quite simple..

One case contains 8 frames 145 mm high. A metal mesh is also used at the bottom of the hole for the entrance to the full width. The design allows, if necessary, to install it on top of the hive.

The advantages of the system include light weight, possibility of transportation, low budget for production. However, we note that thin walls will require measures for warming during wintering. At the peak of the development of colonies, the hive becomes too high.

Cassette

The ideal solution for beekeepers with limited mobility. The cassette hive eliminates the need to rearrange heavy hulls. They are inside the column. Enclosures designed in such a way that they can be pulled out along the rails onto a mobile stand.

Frameless hives

There is a category of beekeepers who have bees without commercial intent. Some of them consider any interference in the life of a bee colony harmful. And also there are people who want to keep bees, but do not plan to delve into the intricacies of beekeeping.

For these categories, a frameless hive is most suitable. The content of bees in such dwellings is as close as possible to natural conditions. The beekeeper does not need deep knowledge of the biology of the bee colony.

Varre

In hives of this type, wooden slats serve as the basis for honeycombs. As the author Emile Varre said, his system does not require the use of frames, wire, foundation. Visits are kept to a minimum. Another feature is the high attic roof, which is filled with heat-insulating and moisture-absorbing material (sawdust, straw, fallen leaves).

Hive Shapkin

Can be used with or without frames. The hive was invented by the Russian popularizer of contactless beekeeping V.F. Shapkin. In essence, it is a collapsible board.

The walls of the buildings are based on a frame made of wooden bars. There is a plastic layer outside, plywood sheathing inside, foam plastic between them. The combined bottom helps to produce a successful fight against flare.

Manufacturing nuances

It is not necessary to completely copy the finished drawing of the hive. You can combine successful devices of different designs, for example, use a high bottom according to German technology. The same decision is radically changed by small nuances - whether or not to make holes for tapholes in the hulls, to use a blind or mesh bottom, etc.

The most popular material for the manufacture of beehives, no doubt, is wood. It is important to take into account its moisture content before building evidence. According to GOST, it should not exceed 15%. In the case of a high moisture content, the structure will inevitably lead, the dimensions of the board will change.

In their natural habitat, wild swarms use small mountain crevices, hollows of old trees or earthen burrows as dwellings. Bee communities prefer to settle in places that are reliably protected from the wind and located in close proximity to water bodies. Unlike free relatives, domestic bee colonies initially live on everything ready. After all, the owners of apiary farms make every effort to create comfortable conditions for their wards to live and work. And far from the last role in this matter is played by the correct organization of the hives. Let's talk in more detail about manufacturing technology and installation of bee houses with your own hands.

What types are hives?

So, first you need to decide on the design of the evidence. Modern beekeepers use various constructive solutions of bee houses from the classic 12-frame Dadan-Blatt to compact alpine evidence. From their detailed description, pluses and minuses can be found in any source on beekeeping.

As for the main types dwellings for bee colonies, then most often in apiaries there are:

In both types of houses, it is supposed to use standard nesting frames 479 * 300 mm in size. Which design to choose best to find out from local beekeepers.

New apartments for a bee dynasty must meet several requirements at once:

And the last. The building should be convenient not only for the living and recreation of striped workers, but also well arranged for current maintenance by the beekeeper himself. That is, it is necessary to build a high-quality, wear-resistant and sufficiently ventilated structure, where strong fasteners and interchangeable parts are provided. Such a structure will make maintenance as simple as possible, and transportation will be hassle-free.

Selection of drawings and diagrams

For the first time, to build a hive with your own hands, it is advisable to use diagrams and drawings that have been "tested" by colleagues with experience more than once. Choosing the right drawing, you need to focus on several factors:

• the number of beekeeping workers;
• climatic conditions of the area and relief;
• the number of bee colonies at present and planned in the future.

For beekeepers who have to rely only on their own strength, for example, it will not be easy to maintain multi-hull structures alone, so in such cases it is more advisable to install home-made hives-beds. Accordingly, with assistants, such a problem is not worth it in principle.

Another important point when choosing a drawing - the intended purpose of the bee house. So, if you plan to:

Advantages of bee houses for 12 frames

Many beekeeping farms and amateur beekeepers prefer to work with 12-frame beekeepers, where an insulated main body with a wall thickness of 40 to 50 mm is provided. It is this solution that is considered universal for all Russian regions, including the northern regions.

Dadan hives are optimally suited for beginner beekeepers. In addition, 12-framed houses simultaneously provide an opportunity for insects to overwinter in the wild and have an earlier cleansing flyover than when they overwinter in a hare. Which is especially important for areas where bee colonies, due to the climate, have to increase their strength in a short time. Therefore, it is extremely important for beekeepers that with the advent of spring, families can quickly get stronger and gain the ability to to work fully on a bribe.

The dimensions of the internal space and other parameters of the hives

Regardless of the design chosen, assembling a hive with your own hands implies the need to comply with mandatory internal dimensions, which determine the biological characteristics of the honey bee.

Therefore, it is important:

In accordance with GOST, the walls of the structure must have a thickness of at least 35-37 mm, which is just obtained after processing 40 mm boards, which are pre-planed. Although, the excellent ability of lightweight structures to provide all the conditions for the normal life of bee colonies was confirmed experimentally. In addition, it is more convenient for beekeepers to work with them.

Familiarize with the main parameters of the hives various types possible in this table.

It is not necessary for beginner beekeepers to delve into all the details of the design scheme of the future home of the bee colony. It is enough to understand the main characteristics of your own hives, and as the farm expands, when buying or independently manufacturing new hives, give preference to the same type of equipment.

Key points for making hives

Before you start building a hive with your own hands, you should find out two main points: the first concerns the use of possible materials, and the second concerns the technology of assembling such structures.

The guarantee of long-term operation of products are:

• use of exclusively high-quality lumber;
• correct processing and assembly of parts;
• external painting of the structure, as well as periodic renewal of painted surfaces every 3–4 years.

Bee houses can and should last at least 10-15 years.

Features of the use of various materials

Schemes and drawings, which explain in detail how to build a hive yourself, exist in large numbers, for which special thanks must be said to various innovative craftsmen. It remains only to use suitable option for your own needs . As for the materials, which can be used to build a bee house, then here you should take the time to study and compare the characteristics of each of them. Let's consider this question in more detail.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood

Hives are usually associated with wooden buildings. It was these dwellings that beekeepers built for their wards, when beekeeping and beekeeping were just emerging. In houses made of wood, striped workers feel as free as possible, as in the wild.

If the priority is the manufacture of a classic wooden beehive, then it is desirable to give preference to wood:

• fir;
• pines with low resin content;
• cedar;
• poplars;
• willow;
• lindens.

The listed deciduous and coniferous species are considered the softest, so the hives from them are very light and warm. Whereas when using dense wood, the structures will not only be heavy, which is inconvenient for the beekeeper, but also cold, and this will already negatively affect the well-being of the bees themselves.

coniferous tree is a budget option for building material for beehives. Its main advantage is the ability to retain heat perfectly, which, in turn, is a guarantee of a good wintering for bee colonies. The disadvantages include the formation of condensate, which accumulates inside the house and the presence of coniferous notes in the smell of honey, especially if the building is new. With deciduous species, there are no such difficulties: in such hives, you can not be afraid of moisture accumulation in the summer season and honey is obtained without a specific smell. Indeed, care must be taken good insulation dwellings before wintering.

wood requirements

Lumber is needed only dry, with a moisture content of not more than 15%. The wood must be straight-grained, and rot, redness, cracks, wormholes and other defects are unacceptable here. An exception is a material with a blue surface, which will not affect the quality of the finished product.

When using a porous sieve tree (sick faut spruce), the boards are necessarily lined (sheathed) with healthy wood. Knots are allowed provided they are healthy, small in size, densely intergrown with the tree and located not along the edges of the structural elements of the hive.

From rotten and falling knots immediately disposed of - drilled and sealed with wood plugs, which are preferably planted on waterproof glue.

Plywood: negative and positive sides

In addition to wood, the manufacture of environmentally friendly and durable plywood hives is practiced, and birch plywood is considered the best material in this regard. Such structures suggest the presence of double walls and a foam pad between the heat-insulating layers.

The advantage of a plywood hive is the optimal microclimate, regardless of the time of year and weather conditions. The main disadvantage of plywood structures- vapor-tight walls that prevent moisture from escaping naturally. For this reason, it is important to consider the ventilation system. It is necessary to make another notch, with the help of which it will be possible to ventilate the nest and regulate the flow of fresh air inside.

Pros and cons of synthetic materials: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam

The absence of carcinogenic properties allows them to be used for the assembly of bee dwellings. Compared to other materials, expanded polystyrene has the lowest cost and structures made from it do not require additional insulation during wintering. However, in terms of strength characteristics, it definitely loses to wood and plywood, since the structures are fragile and brittle. A plus, when using low-quality polystyrene foam the quality of valuable bee products may suffer.

Large household appliances are packed in polystyrene foam, which is then simply thrown away as unnecessary. But some enterprising beekeepers use it to build bee dwellings. By the way, there is simply no cheaper option. Foam structures are very light and have excellent thermal insulation properties. As for the shortcomings, the houses also turn out to be too fragile - once, and they must also be treated with paint in order to minimize the effect of ultraviolet radiation, which has an extremely negative effect on the foam - these are two.

Facades are insulated with polyurethane, as it has a high thermal conductivity, will not rot and decompose, and is highly resistant to mold and mildew. Birds, mice and the bees themselves will definitely not be interested in this material: they definitely will not gnaw it. What can not be said about beehives made of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, structures from which striped workers will definitely begin to sharpen. Besides, their installation increases the risk unwanted neighborhood of bees with ants and other insects.

Reed beehives - an environmentally friendly design made from natural material

The prototype of the reed hive was a straw hive, which the author of the book "Secrets of the Bee Hollow" O. Golub called "diffuse", that is, having optimal thermal conductivity properties. Old sources on beekeeping also contain a lot of information about the straw hive and how to make it. Such hives are either woven or made using a press machine. Only instead of straw, the stems of which are almost impossible to find, so that they are whole, and not broken and “chewed”, reed is used.

Arguments for reed houses for bee colonies:

Of the minuses can be identified:

• the need to use a special press machine for assembling;
• independent calculation of all parameters of the structure;
• the complexity of the manufacturing process.

Whether it is worth installing reed beehives on your own farm, everyone decides for himself. And how to do it yourself, we'll talk a little later.

Technical nuances of assembly and processing of parts

In the manufacture of a bee house, the accuracy of observing the internal dimensions of the structure is important. When the body and extensions are made with high quality, then there will be no problems with increasing the volume of the hive in the future. Between themselves, the connection of structural parts - cases, extensions, stores, roofs should be carried out according to the principle of a lock in order to exclude gaps, and therefore drafts that are undesirable for bees. Therefore, in terms of size, then the permissible deviations for such parameters as length, height, thickness are up to 1 mm, from 0.5 to 1 mm and 0.5 mm, respectively.

The remaining requirements are more related to the correct processing of wood, although they will also be relevant when using other materials.

Features of the design of hives

Structural solution typical hives are presented:

• one or more buildings;
• one or two store extensions or upper tiers;
• liner;
• notch - a hole that can have a slit-like or round shape;
• bottom;
• ceiling;
• roof;
• framework;
• feeder;
• arrival board

With the help of stores, they regulate the volume of the nest and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcombs during the bribe period. Structurally, magazine extensions are a reduced copy of the socket body, having half the height. Extensions are completed with magazine frames or semi-frames. The difference between them and the main nest frames is only in height. For the manufacture of magazine frames, ordinary nest frames are used, which are simply shortened to the desired size. As a rule, one hive is understaffed with one or two stores.

The main part of the hive

hive type is determined by the main element of the bee dwelling - the frame, since the structure of the hive itself, as such, is only a shell of the frame. Within the framework of the bees, they build honeycombs, so they make these important details, adhering to strictly defined sizes that correspond to the housing system of bee colonies.

The design of the frames is an upper and lower bar, limited by side slats. It is necessary that the distance between the side rails and the housing wall is 8 mm. The lack of free space will create difficulties in the work of bees and the beekeeper, and insects will build up a large passage with honeycombs, which is also inconvenient for servicing the hive, where the frames and walls will be glued with wax.

The constructive solution of the frames can also be different and be square, narrow-high, low-wide. Regardless of this, it is first of all important to match the external dimensions of the frames and the internal dimensions of the case. It is important that the hive completed with frames of the same design, and ideally identical frames should be used throughout the apiary.

Frame sizes

The dimensions of the frames are determined taking into account the biological characteristics of honey bees. Of course, the beekeeper should also be comfortable working with such frames.

Frames are nested and semi-frames - store extensions. Each frame has a top bar, a bottom bar and two side bars. At the top bar, a pair of protrusions (shoulders) of a centimeter length is provided, for which the frames are hung in the hives.

In any typical hive, the width of the top bar and side bars will be the same 25 millimeters each. In this case, the top bar should have a thickness of 20 to 22 mm, and side bars - from 8 to 10 mm. The cross section of the lower bar is 15 * 15 mm, and its length is equal to the frame clearance.

Frames, where permanent dividers are provided, are used for multi-hull hives to simplify preparatory work before transporting bees. Side plank size in such a framework it is up to the upper third in width is 25 mm, and then it expands to 37 millimeters.

Russian beekeepers use the same outer frame sizes:

• for nesting, which are equipped with 12-frame or 14-frame, sunbeds and double-hued hives is 435 * 300 millimeters;
• for magazine extensions - 435*150 or 435*145;
• in multi-hull structures - 435 * 230.

Frames with dimensions of 435 * 300 millimeters - wide and low are often called standard or dadan. They are used in the classic 12-frame, common almost everywhere. And frames with dimensions of 300 * 435 (narrow and high) are called Warsaw extended. A striking example of their use is Ukrainian deck chairs.

In the table below you can find the dimensions of the frames for the hive and magazines.

How to make a frame for a beehive with your own hands

The beekeeper does the main work with frames. By and large, they are one of the Supplies, which need to be updated frequently and is good when there is a sufficient number of new frames in stock. Ready-made frames can be purchased at specialized stores, or you can make your own.

Tools and materials:

• dry slats;
• hammer, pliers, awl;
• shoe nails and thin wire (skein).

Procedure:

• Cut out the details of the desired size, guided by the above table and the selected drawing of the hive.
• Connect all the elements with nails.
• In the side planks, use an awl to make several holes at the same distance from each other to secure the wire.
• Gently pull it through the holes like a snake, using pliers and an awl.
• In the last hole, the wire must be securely fixed to prevent accidental breakage of heavy honeycombs.

The finished frames are waxed and installed in the hive.

How to make a beehive with your own hands: photos and step by step guide

Consider the construction of a bee house on the example of the classic 12-frame construction of Dadan-Blatt. It is good if all work is carried out in a closed room, where there is constant air humidity and a uniform temperature regime. On the street, the boards can be saturated with moisture and the hive will dry out unevenly, which will increase the chances of cracking the structure, which means that it will have to be puttied again.

After all the preparatory operations, the procedure includes building the hull, checking it and installing the base. Then shops are already made and the final element is the lid. Let's take a closer look at each stage.

Preparatory work

• Inspection and polishing of wood.
• Cutting boards to desired width.
• Cutting blanks according to the selected drawing.
• The formation of grooves that ensure the tightness of the connection of all structural elements (lock connection in a tongue and groove).

Hull construction and base installation

Shop and roof assembly

Production of store extensions:

• The formation of stores is carried out similarly, but with a change in height.
• When building the walls of extensions, thinner boards from 1.8 to 2 cm can be used. With the onset of the honey collection period, such structures will be easier to transport.
• Stuffing the slats on which the frames will rest around the perimeter of the upper part of the store.

The final structural element should turn out to be universal in order to fit the body (for the period of wintering or organizing hives without store extensions), and to stores.

• Unlike hulls, extensions dry out much more often. For this reason, when designing the cover, it is necessary to provide for the presence of gaps for a small play, however, at the same time, it should fit as much as possible over the entire plane.
• Production of ventilation and upper notch. Some sources on beekeeping advise to have ventilation equipped with a protective grill on the sides of the body, and make the entrance small. Others suggest making the notch elongated up to 12 cm and narrow, which half solves the problem of ventilation of the hive. In both versions, the ventilation duct has an almost identical area, so it remains only to choose the most effective one for yourself.
• Installation sheet metal or plastic as additional cover protection. The main requirement for materials is quality and odorlessness.
• Painting wooden parts.

In fact , the whole process of assembling the hive Do it yourself will take a couple of working days.

The technology of making a beehive from reeds

To build such a hive, you need to worry about harvesting reeds or cattails in advance. These building materials are free. But if there is no timber, plywood and roofing material for the roof, then they will already have to be spent.

Another good news is that wood for the construction of a reed structure will be required in a small amount. The frame is formed from rails or a wooden beam, and the pressed reed goes to the manufacture of the walls and bottom. Therefore, the main tool here will be a press machine, which you can make yourself by watching a video on the topic.

In the manufacture of the body, beekeepers use different technologies. In the first case, the walls are pressed separately, after which they are connected to each other. The advantages of this method are convenient transportation and space saving in the workshop. This option is also considered more versatile, since it allows using a flat mold to produce cases with walls of different lengths, without being tied to the dimensions of the equipment. The disadvantage is somewhat cold corners.

Another method involves pressing a one-piece body. Of the advantages, it is worth noting a higher speed of production of hives in just one operation on the press, increased strength of the geometry of the body due to the tightness of the ligation of the bulrush stalks to each other in the corners of the body. The disadvantages include the need to design an overall machine and the inability to change the size of the finished hives.

Experienced craftsmen recommend making the case in the second way, and use the first one for the production of the liner. As for the roof, it is best to make it gable. You can familiarize yourself with the manufacturing technology in detail on the video, but here we will focus only on its main points.

The process of making a reed hive

Work order:

When using soft reeds, so that the reeds do not fall out when the finished hive is removed from the mold, it is recommended to fix the middle of the walls outside and inside with hardwood planks. For what, however, you have to remove the press and climb into the structure itself. You can also use slings that will temporarily tighten the walls. If the reed is hard, such difficulties do not arise.

To extract the finished hive, at the end, the upper frame of the press is removed, the pins in the lower and upper parts of the machine and the walls of the press are folded back.

Then the hull will need to be improved, which means:

• installation of intermediate wooden planks;
• installation of skirting boards on internal corners;
• fastening the outer and inner strips in pairs with each other using a long self-tapping screw, using a grinder to trim the protruding end;
• trimming excess protruding or broken reeds with secateurs;
• the formation of guide frames for hangers, for handles and boards of the hive base.

It remains to make a liner, which is then necessarily covered with roofing felt, galvanized or aluminum sheet (an additional heat-insulating gasket will be needed here), flexible tiles, shingles or roofing paint. For processing wooden parts hulls use water-based paints, and reeds most often use linseed oil. Some advise to treat the reeds with a mixture of turpentine based on resin + melted wax.

So, in the manufacture of beehives with your own hands there is nothing particularly complicated. If you listen to the advice of more experienced beekeepers, then unexpected moments in the process of arranging your own apiary will occur much less frequently. After all, the centuries-old experience of ancestors and the achievements of modern beekeepers is a huge and unique information base, where everyone can find a solution for their apiary and its workers. From additional sources you can also learn how to build a hive using the Ozerov method.

Do-it-yourself beehives

Home >> Livestock >> Beekeeping

hive- an artificial dwelling that a person prepares for bees. Depending on the system, one or more beekeepers may live in the same hive.

The methods of bee bees in different systems are somewhat different.

The nest of the family of bees consists of a vertical double-sided clock. The life of the family of bees is inextricably linked with the satin, which they build from wax, which is intended to store food supplies and breed breeding animals. Each honeycomb is made up of a common vertical medium, and on both sides the hexagonal cells leave. The layers of honeycombs in a nest are always vertical.

The thickness of the combs intended for breeding is 24-25 mm. The width of the cages intended for the removal of worker bees averages 5.42 mm and a depth of 11-12 mm. Stem cells for an average diameter of 6.5 mm. The wall thickness in the cell is 73 ± 2 µm. In the course of bee honey, 10 to 12 mm of free space is left (“street”).

Cellular clocks have a regular hexagon in the form of a graph. The bottom of the cell is made up of three diamonds angled to form a pyramid that deepens the cell.

The bottom of each cell on one side of the comb simultaneously serves as part of the bottom of three cells on the other side of the comb.

Cells are divided into several types of structures:

• Bee bees - for removing bees, cleaning and storing honey and panna in them;
• Trout - when removing unmanned beams, stacking honey (bees avoiding storage of pergoza), drones are larger than bees;
• Stem cells are special cells for queen extraction.

  Usually they are built outside the hatches, they are more often attached to the clock and continue, less often they are separated (for example, on the frame);

• Transition cells are irregularly shaped cells that build bees when moving from bees to drones, usually to the top and side bars of frames, and to repair mechanical damage to combs;
• Honey - usually located at the top of the honeycomb.

  They are oblong in shape and inclined upwards by 13° so that the honey does not work.

Cells different breeds bees vary because each breed has its own size of worker bees.

The cells in the combs are slightly up (4-5 °, this is basically the basis for the operation of the radial honey receiver).

The construction of honeycombs goes from top to bottom. Bees always closely monitor the integrity of the honeycombs.

Bees regulate ventilation by creating special barriers in the vents.

Newly built clocks are made of pure wax, they are white in color, but before use, they will polish the bees with propolis and give them a slightly yellowish tint.

Over time, honeycombs become clouded due to the remnants of cocoons. From these cells, bees of smaller size and mass are hatched. In very old combs, the bees are forced to compress part of the accumulated layers, they spend a lot of time and effort preparing the wall for honey eggs.

hive types

Non-opposite stumps

Under natural conditions, bees live in tree cavities, less often in cracks. rocks and other suitable natural amounts.

Honey and wax have been mined in the forests of Russia since early times.

People have long learned to create artificial cavities to save bees - pearls. The remains of a bird apiary were found at the end of the 19th century. Centuries in the forests of Bashkortostan. Often notches were cut with the tree, as well as bee colonies and moved to another location.

When these panels in the form of decks began to be collected in one place for ease of protection and maintenance, there was a transition from beekeeping to apiary to apiary.

In the southern breeding areas, bees fed on mussels - bees from bees or straw, covered with clay. In the steppe regions, box bees were made from slabs or from thin duplexes in which bees were kept.

Battle, roof, dub, hack were non-selective. The bees were built with faeces and a person could break into the nest (for example, pick out honey) only destroying the bee's flat.

Folding nettles

Linear hives

Going from an affordable collapsible hive to a honeycomb line where a removable lid is placed parallel to a row of wooden rulers so that each row of bees builds a separate cell.

By cutting out the clock from the sides and thereby separating it from the side walls, it was possible to carefully pull out the individual clock without destroying it. However, linear stumps of wide distribution were not obtained and were only transitional phases of modern threads, which made it possible to control the vital activity of bees.

carcass nettle

The frame bush was invented in 1814 by the Ukrainian beekeeper P. I. Prokopovich.

The request also includes Jan Jerzhon (1838) and August von Berlepsch (1852). However, the frame design was close to the modern U.S. patented L.

Langstroth in 1851; Footage in the Langstroth Gorge was pulled from above, it has become the most common in the world.

Sliding parts of the hive

The distribution frame is made up of components.

In some special cases, hives can be made in different ways. Typically, a set of hives includes:

• Removable bottom (in many models the bottom is part of the 1st building).
• Examples (depending on the type of hive, from one to several).
• Saving extensions (this can be one or more, often regardless of the type of hive); Each extension has one set of frames (depending on the model 10-24).
• Roof (with the content of the bee pavilion may be missing, because the hives are under the roof of the building / trailer).
• Frames in which bees build honeycombs; In each case, two framesets are usually stored and one for the extension.
• Frame separators (e.g. hooks or other system for determining the specified frame width).
• The canvas or ceiling is made of a thin plate (it is mounted on top of the frame of the top case).
• Feeding the trough (most often these are troughs).
• Prihodišče; more often than not, it cannot be removed and is under every touch.
• Membrane (to separate families that separate one body or living part of the body from an empty one).
• One or more separation rods (do not allow the uterus to enter the body or honeycombs and there there)
• Cushion or more (filled with dry moss, cotton or other material).

Honeycomb frame types

Vertical baths (risers) which are called all hive frames whose volume increases upwards, establishing a nest of new buildings or shops ("semi-expansion"). Thus, the frames in a vertical hive with an increase in its volume are located at several levels.

Horizontal stumps (solarium) called hives, whose volume is increased by adding frames to the socket on the side.

Frames in loungers lie in one row, and the hives themselves look like oblong boxes. In fact, umbrellas only have one design, which can be modified by some beekeepers.

They look like long boxes or old chests. Usually they contain 16-20, and sometimes 24 frames of 435x300 mm. Here the nest of bees is spread out horizontally.

The 16-frame hive-house was made for one family, and 20 and 24 drawings were made for two. The degree of this straw allows you to raise families stronger than in the 12-frame system.

Typically, the two lower and upper flaps are installed in front, but they can also be located on opposite sides - in front and back walls. There are one or two shops. Folding ceiling. The roof is flat and flush with the walls of the hull, and is held by an external ridge. Since the deck is very easy to work with, beginner beekeepers usually start with it.

In Russia, double-sided blowers and beds are equally widespread.

Hives with a large body It is believed that it is more appropriate when working with a large number of bee colonies, because it allows you to work not in frames, but in cases.

Often a single bee body bee has 200 or more bee colonies.

In a multipart carcass, the carcasses are placed vertically, one on top. As the bee family develops, cabinets and store extensions are added.

As a rule, two, three or more carcasses are marked. In this case, the number of carcasses depends on the method of beekeeping and the calculation of beekeepers, and not on the design.

The world's most popular (and almost the only) multi-hive structure is the Langstroth-Root hive. Its buildings are designed for a frame size of 435-230 mm, and the stores do not differ from the buildings.

The examples vary depending on the height of the frame being used. The most commonly used Routine framework.

Langstroth Hive Route

As a rule, it consists of several buildings, up to 6 pieces, usually in frames, 10 frames in the body, the frame size is 230×435mm.

The principle of keeping bees in the Langstroth-Root bath is a simple understanding and is based on the behavioral characteristics of the bees.

After hibernation in the upper part of the body, where the bees of the family dormant in winter, the second body is fixed by a frame and land filled with honeycombs. Bees Tired winter bees and the queen want to move into a warmer enclosure and a spacious apartment. After that, the object is replaced, and another block with frames is inserted between them. The characteristic behavior of bees is that they are always filled with honeycombs from top to bottom, so when between buildings filled with honey space, then some kinds of destruction are their homes, they try to recover and touch, after a while, fill with honey and honey.

After that, for two or three weeks, when the bee family learns and gains power, everything is done the same way. The body of the burial, in which the queen is located, is closed with a special mesh, through which the worker bee passes, but the queen does not pass.

Due to the need to create permanent rebuild buildings and restore the bees to their homes, Langstroth hives Ruth is more suited to areas with warmer climates, with constant handling of hypothermia being a risk of stagnation in temperate zones.

To prepare for winter, you need to keep one body of honey and place it in winter. But here is the choice of everyone who can then feed them with sugar or other methods.

There are times when beekeepers complement Dadant hives as multi-colored - they put more buildings and extensions (the latter can be both buildings and standard extensions up to half the frame).

Twelve Dadan-Blatt frame huts

Increase

One horned bush with 12 half moon extensions.

It is made from discs.

Apiary with bees

Dimensions of wrinkles at the end, 20×40 mm. Machines are used to produce them. The top of the store has wrinkles on the back and front wall. Single-wall housing can be made on 12, 10 and 14 frames. This can be seen in the photo.

All sizes are the same. After all, in the future, from two stores, you can get a regular case.

You can finish the frame with paraffin wax. Its melting is performed before processing. In the house, the queen and the bees feel comfortable. The temperature is maintained by heaters.

Proper installation of hives

Proper placement of nettles in the hive gives the worker bee the ability to move around the universe in space to distinguish the beating from others.

The hive is a chain of solid fences or hedges of plants (hazel, willow, acacia, lilac, gooseberry, currant, hawthorn, fragility, turn, etc.). The height is less than two meters.

This is done in such a way that the bees flying from the apiary for a bribe, and when returning in advance when they reach a height of more than two meters.

If they move along the fence at such a height, they will not be able to collide with people or animals and will not obey them.

Without a trip to an apiary, you cannot keep more than 20-25 bee colonies in the absence of other apiaries and the presence of forest, field, meadow honey bees within a radius of 2-3 km. If 50 bees are placed on a stationary hive, it will be 3-4 kg per colony. It is best to start beekeeping with 2-3 colonies of bees. As you gain skills and experience, the apiary can be enlarged through your own reproduction or through the acquisition of new families.

Beans with bees are placed in the shade of the crown of trees, shrubs and protected from the sunset. The best place to roast beehives is in the garden. Koprivnica with fruit trees on the left and behind (from north to south), so that the crown covered the hive from the sun at noon. In the absence of natural shelters, the removal of the hives from the sun can be protected by placing the roof on fresh slanting grass, thatch or wood slab, plywood, plaid, which puts them under the rails.

On a fixed apiary, shade from the sun, planting fruit trees and shrubs, corn, sunflowers, raspberries, etc. can be planted. Racks and grape plants can be near the beehives:. beans, annual Bindweed, vines, hops. These plants will serve as a good guide for summer bees.

Distance between hives it is permissible to withstand 3-4 m, between types of hives 4-6 m.

Stumps are mounted on supports 30-50 cm high. In hives with a limited area, nettles can be found at a distance of 0.7-1 m in groups of two, three, four or one at a time. When combined, they are placed in groups rather than on a single line, and tabbed in different directions. Do this to prevent bee weaving. For the same purpose, nettles should be dyed different colors: yellow, blue, blue, white. These colors are most characteristic of bees and queens.

In which direction should the belts appear? As a rule, apiaries are located in the direction of the ambient in the apiary. We most often recommend the east or southeast direction. According to Academician Letka, A. M. Butler wrote: “The hole can be oriented in all directions, but in the south direction it is worse than the other, because the hive receives a lot of light and heat, the direction to the southeast and southwest is better for stumps, of which the swarms wish to head north, northeast and northwest, better for honeycombs.”

The prominent Russian beekeeper N. M. Vitvitsky wrote in his works that wild bees are becoming more and more honey in the corners, for years that have been in the north. Based on long-term observations on a fixed hive of spring and autumn hives, it is better to point the holes to the south, in the summer months - to the north, in winter - in the direction of the dominant wind (the wind blows in the last wall of the hive). The hive, in order to circumvent its axis at the same time, must not exceed 45 degrees. If the hive does not have the ability to rotate the hives around its axis, it is most convenient to place them in the southeast.

In the spring, most of the spring was placed in the same places where they were illuminated in the fall. The positioning of the apiaries in the apiary should be carried out in such a way that the worker bees do not fly to other stumps after flying and returning from pastures. Creating "homes" for bees is necessary in places with good milestones that will make young stupid queens running to the computer clearly remember and return to their homes.

In a home apiary, it is forbidden to give combs near the path leading to the entrance to the house and to commercial premises, since the movement of people often annoys the bees.

In open areas of apiaries it cannot be tested against the prevailing winds, as the free-floating wind influences the development of the bee colonies.

The most common ways to place an apiary in an apiary are:

• correct lines;
• chess problem;
• group method

Nettle Dispersion Method regular lines It is used, as a rule, in cases where honey bees, as well as during the period of migration of bees, stand out over a fairly large area.

The stumps were placed on the racks one at a time, at a distance of 3-4 m from each other. According to the usual methods, in the first order of spring, in exceptional cases, weak families are usually encountered. The strengthening of such beekeeping families will be caused by attacks.

If the bees are exported in bribes, it is desirable that the hives are rarely located in the same row, as otherwise beekeepers with a low departure rate will fly to other dwellings in the first row.

After all, bees with a full "guardian" nail are allowed to fly. For better orientation in a hut in a nomadic city, tree branches or rods of different heights should be placed. At the ends of the poles, it is desirable to hang multi-colored flags.

There is another feature of the placement of bees during the period of bee migration. Consideration should be given to the location of the main doses. For example, if there is a floating buckwheat on the east side, then several stumps need to be stretched from north to south.

Practice shows that the regulation of hives in a row has one significant drawback:

• First, it occupies a lot of territory and is inevitably wandered by bees;
• Secondly, the work time of beekeepers is unproductive during the transition from one bee colony to another. After learning the next colony, the bees are forced to move and hand over all the necessary equipment to the next hive.

Laying of hives by the method of breaks, i.e. distributed This is very common.

More often than not, equidae spreads everything in due course. In hives, observe a distance of 3-4 m and 4-5 m between rows. So in terms of convention, the honey bee has a great view of the bee's "home", with one line in between compared to the other two views.

However, placing hives in a distributed manner is a significant disadvantage:

• placing hives in this way creates monotony in the apiary, especially if the bee population is 100 or more bee colonies and the "houses" have the same appearance;
• In this case, the belts are oriented in the same direction;
• the bees and the queen are poorly oriented and often hit other bees;
• it is inevitable that the bees and the diving of the bees are hindered, which hinders the management of breeding work in the apiary, causes the loss of young queens returning from mating;
• conditions have been created to increase the irritation of bees;
• a herd of bees develops;
• conditions have been created for the rapid spread of infectious diseases of bees

Instead of placing the hives in a distributed way, it's better to use the hook space Group.

The advantages of organizing hives in groups are as follows:

• the honey-forming group method is suitable for all types of apiaries;
• the distribution of hives into groups can be used to play in the forest, steppe or garden;
• when combined together, they make 3-6 hives, which allows the beekeeper to take care of several hives at the same time, preventing the transfer and transfer of inventory after studying each family;
• In addition, the beekeeper can train better with several beekeepers, as the trainee can find all kinds of working methods in all places;

As a type of placement of hives for each point diagonally method.

Its essence is that the nettles, in turn, are mutually displaced along the width of the side wall of the hive. In a diagonal row, you can install 5-6 hives with a distance of 0.5 m and a row from a line of 4-6 m.

Groups of hives are placed in a semicircle or triangle, and the belts turn in different directions, except north. The distance between groups of hives should be greater than for mating and isolation.

In addition, the hives must be placed at different heights from the ground.

In what order the dogs were placed, the grass should be destroyed around them, especially at the front.

This is necessary to remove the bees from the hives. Depending on the debris around the bees, the beekeeper assesses the condition of the bee family.

The best place to place apiaries is fruits and berries.

See also hive sizes

HIVES FOR BEES. THEIR TYPES. BASIC REQUIREMENTS AND PARAMETERS OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF HIVES.

The main equipment of the apiary are hives - the dwellings of bees.

Basic requirements for bee hives

The hive for bees must meet the following basic requirements:

• keep warm well
• be provided with reliable ventilation;
• have a design that allows you to easily change its internal volume (reduce or increase depending on the strength of the bee colony and the amount of nectar brought from the field), interchange parts, that is, put a frame, extension, body in any hive - this is absolutely necessary, it is desirable to have interchangeable roofs, landing boards, etc.;
• reliably protect bees in bad weather (from rain, wind), as well as from overheating in hot weather;
• be convenient for the work of the beekeeper when caring for bees and transportation, light, small volume, neat.

Outside, bee hives must be painted. In this case, light-colored paints (white, yellow, blue, light green, pink, gray, beige) prepared on natural drying oil. Painted hives for bees do not get wet and do not rot, have a neat appearance. If the outside of the hives is not painted, then during the autumn rains they become very wet and they have to be removed wet into the wintering house, and excessive humidity in the wintering is very harmful to the bees. From the inside, the hives for bees should not be painted - this is useless, since every spring the inner walls of the hives have to be cleaned (scraped) with a chisel, knife or scraper, and often burned with a blowtorch flame.

As a rule, bee hives are made double-walled, which allows them to keep warm in spring and autumn, during the period of building up a bee colony, maintain a more stable temperature in winter and avoid overheating in summer.

Types of bee hives

At present, several types of bee hives are mainly used, which differ in volume - the number of frames placed in them and the size of the frames, in addition, bee hives are divided into double-walled, with filling between the walls with insulating material, and single-walled, with a detachable volume or irreplaceable.

Consider some of them, the most commonly used types of hives for bees.

Single-hull twelve-frame hive per frame 135 X 300 mm

A single-hull twelve-frame hive on a frame 135 X 300 mm is used with magazine extensions.

In the lower - nesting case of this type of hives, 12 frames can be placed, and on top you can put two extensions (magazines) of 12 half-frames with dimensions of 435 X 145 mm. If necessary, 12 full frames can be placed in extensions placed one on top of the other instead of half frames.

Instead of two extensions, you can put a second body, only full frames are placed in it. In this case, the hive is used as a double-hull. 24 full frames will intervene in it, and if necessary, you can put it on top of the second body or between the bodies of the extension on the half-frame.

This type of hive can be double-walled or single-walled, with a removable and non-removable bottom. The 12-frame nest - the lower body - is not enough in terms of volume when growing bees in the spring, there is not enough space for brood in it during the growth of the family at the beginning of the season. During this period, a second building has to be installed, which somewhat complicates the work.

Single-hull 14- and 16-frame hive per frame 435 X 300 mm.

Single-hull 14- and 16-frame hive per frame 435 X 300 mm.

Increasing the volume of the hive to 14-16 frames improves it. Such a volume provides a large space for building up a family of bees to the main honey collection.

This type of hive is easy to use and can be recommended to beginner beekeepers. Experience shows that the volume of the nest in such a hive is sufficient to build up a large number of bees by the main honey collection (by June 10-20) and even by the flowering of gardens (by May 20-25), and from the beginning of a good honey collection, the bees come to a swarm state less .

It has the ability to grow strong families, which, with the onset of honey collection, are supplied with shops. After filling with a spray (fresh liquid honey) of one store, a second one is placed under it. Instead of stores, you can put a second building, but it is made for 12-14 frames.

You can combine the case with shops.

18-20-frame hive-lounger per frame 435 X 300 mm.

18-20 frame bed hive per frame 435 X 300 mm. Some beekeepers keep bees in bed hives.

With the growth of the colony in the spring, the volume of these hives is filled with bees in a horizontal direction, in contrast to 12- and 14-frame, double-hull and multi-hull hives, in which the colony grows vertically.

Under natural conditions, for millennia, Central Russian bees lived in hollows of trees and the colony grew in a vertical direction. It has been established that the development of the family and its growth proceeds better, on the basis of which many beekeepers put shops in hives-loungers.

Work in hive-beds with frames measuring 435 X 300 mm is the simplest, but they have a big drawback - they are bulky and heavy, take up a lot of space in the winter hut, it is difficult to clean them for the winter, transport them for honey collection or pollination, rearrange, disinfect, etc. Such hives for bees are currently used only in stationary apiaries and they are mainly made of double-walled or made of boards 50 mm thick.

Multi-body hive on a frame 435 X 230 mm.

Multi-body hive on a frame 435 X 230 mm. Consists of four or more interchangeable cases, each of which contains 10 frames. The growth and development of the family in this hive occurs in a vertical direction.

It is always made single-walled, with a detachable bottom, from well-dried and seasoned boards with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm. The thinner the boards, the more carefully the hulls must be made to avoid distortions. Leningrad amateur beekeeper P. G. Kuznetsov makes excellent cases of this hive from hard foam. They are distinguished by lightness - low weight, retain heat well and do not warm up by the sun. As a rule, the bodies are knitted into a spike, with casein glue, and for boards of 25 mm this is a must.

Each body must be tightly connected to the rest, the gaps between them are unacceptable. In order to prevent the hulls from moving in the docking places during transportation, they are made with folds or covered with slats.

Do-it-yourself beehives for bees: materials, features, drawings and recommendations

In apiaries where the hives are not transported, they do not make folds in the cases and do not close the joints with slats. It is more convenient to work with foldless cases, they can not be placed on top (when setting up, bees are inevitably crushed between the walls), and putting one edge of the case on the bottom, gradually the entire case is pushed into place, and the bees sitting on the walls move to the side without crushing .

Multi-body hive for bees on a frame 435 X 145 mm.

Multi-body hive on a frame 435 X 145 mm. It has been used recently by individual beekeepers. All the features of a multi-hull hive are inherent in this one, but some of them should be noted. Each case holds 12 frames, but the case is much lighter, one person can work with it (take it off and put it back on) without bulky devices (tables, stands, skids, lifts, etc.)

The whole hive consists of five buildings.

The cases are made of boards 25 mm thick in a spike on casein glue. In a cold climate, a multi-hull hive has a significant drawback - it is single-walled, and no matter how well the hulls fit one to the other, gaps remain at their joints, sometimes hardly noticeable, but greatly cooling the nest during the spring build-up of bees. This is especially noticeable for bees during return cold weather in early May.

However, such hives have a number of advantages over others.

It is easier to prevent swarming in them, to change queens, to make layering, etc. At the same time, it is necessary to eliminate the danger of cooling the nest through the cracks in the joints of the housings and to warm it well from above.

In all of the above types of hives, you can successfully keep bees, get a lot of honey and wax, but in each of them the work must be carried out according to the appropriate method and in a certain order.

bee family

honeycombs

High quality and high quality hives are a prerequisite for a productive and profitable apiary. Nowadays, buying hives is not difficult, but there is no need to spend a lot of money on buying houses for bees.

They can be made by themselves and have necessary tools and suitable materials. You can use the following materials for your own hive production:

• Natural wood is one of the best options. The tree reliably protects insects from heat and cold, and also provides an ideal level of air circulation in the hive.
• Plywood is an environmentally friendly and durable material that is resistant to weather conditions and is not damaged during transportation of the apiary.
• Styrofoam - often used for self-service.

  Polystyrene is very light and compact, it always maintains the temperature required for the bees in the bee hive.

• Some beekeepers also use materials such as polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyurethane foam for the production of hives. It's warm and durable modern materials, from which you can easily make a house for bees at home.

So, with the material you have decided, but how do you make the hive itself?

Before you start making beehives directly, you should carefully study all the features of your design. The standard part consists of the following parts:

• An example with special grooves that will later be attached to the frame.

  The body is the wall of the future stump. The size of the body can be very different - depending on the size of the family of bees and the number of frames in the hive. In the case, circumcision is mandatory - usually slightly above the center line.

• The bottom of the hive - it can be fixed and removed.
• Storage Settings - These devices are used to store honey during honey harvest. The presence of stores is not necessary and is determined directly by the beekeeper.
• The roof can come in almost all shapes, but many beekeepers prefer flat roofs.

  The main purpose of this element is to protect the hive and its inhabitants from wind and precipitation. In some cases, special ventilation holes are provided on the roof.

• Frames are nested and separated. The nest frames are two rails connected to rails.

  It is used to detach the honey watch. Sectional frames are made of wood chips. Sectional frames are designed for the production of honeycombs.

• feeders

Before you start making a hive, you should draw a rough drawing of your future structure.

A large number of drawings of beehives for every taste can be found on the Internet. You need to determine the size of the hive - they directly depend on the number of hives in the hive.

After a complete drawing of the entire hive, separate drawings of each part must be made - the body, roof, bottom, frame. Depending on the drawings of each element, they can be drawn according to the drawings.

The next step is to combine all the details. To do this, use self-tapping screws.

bee herself

The walls of the hives are attached with special edges. Keep in mind that there are no gaps or gaps between the hive components.

The last part of the production and installation of hives with my own hands is the installation of the roof. The roof must be attached very tightly, reliably protecting the hive and the family of bees from atmospheric precipitation.

TECHNOLOGY OF HIVES PRODUCTION IN SAINT PETERSBURG

As already written in our previous articles, Kalinka LLC is engaged in the production of Dadan hives for 10, 12 frames, sun lounger hives for 14,16,20 and 24 frames (analogue of Lazutin hives), Langstroth-Root hives, cores and beekeeping equipment in St. Petersburg.

You can buy hives both at the production site and in the Beekeeping stores in Moscow and Saratov (see the "Contacts" section in the top menu).

For the production of hives, we use Russian wood: pine (since 2013, only the highest and first grade). Wood for production is specially harvested during the winter period, since "winter" wood does not turn blue during storage and processing, in addition, it is less susceptible to the formation of fungi.

Pine harvested for the production of beehives is cut down in the northern regions of Russia, as it has a high density due to the smaller number of knots. The density of a tree affects the formation of cracks in it, that is, the denser the wood, the less cracks.

Before getting into the production of beehives, the wood is pre-selected and processed. At the selection stage, boards with rotten knots, cracks and chips are rejected.

Boards selected for the production of hives are dried to 10% moisture on special Italian equipment.

Do-it-yourself drawings for a bee hive

Drying on this equipment eliminates the formation of cracks in the wood and the board does not lead, which is practically impossible to achieve by natural drying.

After the drying stage, the boards go through another stage of verification and only then are put into production. Further processing and sawing of the hive parts is carried out on high-precision German and Italian equipment, the maximum error of which is 0.5 mm. Measurement accuracy is ensured by the use of electronic calipers.

All boards pass mandatory step processing - planing.

Planing provides a smooth surface of the boards and perfectly even corners of the beehive.

The construction of Dadan hives and sunbed hives consists of several main parts: a bottom with a landing board, one or more buildings, a roof with a roof lining, one or more magazines, nest or magazine frames and a diaphragm.

The bottom of the Dadan-Blatt hives and sun lounger hives produced at our enterprise is detachable.

It is assembled from boards spliced ​​on a microthorn and glued with frost-resistant glue with a hardener (“Kleiberit” D-4). The floor is cut into the bottom trim, thickness 35 mm. In the front bar of the bottom strapping for the departure of bees, there is a notch with a notch barrier. The width of the notch can be adjusted using a special valve. An arrival board is attached to the front bar. The arrival board is fixed at a slight angle for a more comfortable landing of the bee, has a width of 55-60 mm.

and length - 500 mm.

The body of the hives consists of 4 walls, the thickness of which is 35 mm. In the upper part of the case, folds for hanging frames are knocked out; a round or oblong notch is made in the front part. The round notch is specially drilled at an upward angle to protect the hive from water ingress.

The boards of the hive body, as well as the bottoms, are spliced ​​with a microthorn and glued with high-quality frost-resistant glue with a Kleiberit 303 D4 hardener.

Sufficiently thick walls of the body of the hives allow you to safely transfer the wintering to the bees.

In our apiary, wintering of bees takes place in the open air and, contrary to the fears of many beekeepers, the bees not only survive the winter without problems, but also show great efficiency during the honey collection period.

The liner in the hives produced at our enterprise is detachable, has a thickness of 22 mm. The liner is designed to accommodate an insulating pillow in it.

The store or store extension for hives is twice as high as the main body. Frames in the store are respectively half the size of a regular nest frame.

The diaphragm for the hive resembles a nesting frame, only with a closed wall. The diaphragm has a sealing rubber that allows you to create a blind partition in the hive, which is necessary to separate the nesting part of the hive from the empty space.

Or the diaphragm is used when keeping two bee colonies in the hive to divide the hive into two parts.

Nesting frames for hives are the base on which the bees build their nesting combs. It consists of a top bar with hangers, a bottom bar and 2 side bars. The side bars of the frame are equipped with special permanent dividers, necessary for fixing the frames in the hive during the transportation of bees over long distances.

The cover of the hives produced at our enterprise is made of boards, the thickness of which is 35 mm.

The lid is a removable part of the hive and has a slight slope. In addition, the cover of the hive is upholstered with a layer of plywood and a layer of aluminum. All this helps to protect the hive from water ingress during rain, the harmful effects of electromagnetic waves and overheating from the sun's rays, while at the same time keeping the hive warm.

Recently, we have begun to immediately install rectangular and round entrance obstacles on them at the production stage of hives, which makes working with hives convenient and does not require any modifications. The hives are fully equipped, so the beekeeper only needs to paint and proliferate the hive, and you can get to work.

The hives produced at our enterprise will serve you from 15 to 20 years. When buying hives, the buyer is provided with a guarantee for 1 year, all necessary documents are drawn up.

Beehive production is not just a business for us. We put our soul into production, constantly striving to improve the quality of hives, using new equipment and high-quality materials.

Your opinion is important to us. Call us, we are always happy to listen to your wishes or answer all your questions.

In addition, you can ask a question in a special section "Question - Answer".

PHOTO OF HIVE PRODUCTION HERE

The beekeeper can make a beehive with his own hands, using wood, plywood and even foam plastic for this. The development of the pupa and the productivity of adults will depend on the conditions created in the bee house, therefore, its design and manufacture must be approached with all responsibility.

Typical structure of hives and components

To make a house for bees on your own, you first need to deal with its basic structure. Any model should have the following components:

• Frame. It is located at the bottom of the structure and implies the presence special grooves on which the frames are set. Depending on the size and type of the hive, their number varies from 9 to 16. As a rule, such joints are installed parallel to each other. The walls of the body are made with a heater, which most often acts as a veil - a heat-insulating plate made of paper impregnated with bitumen. Its main substitutes are linen mats, expanded polystyrene.
• Bottom. At the same time, it performs two functions - the base of the structure and the "runway" for bees. The bottom can be nailed or removable. From the point of view of operation, the second option is optimal, since it simplifies the cleaning of the nest. Between the bottom and the frames, you need to form a sub-frame space with a length of at least 20-25 mm. It is necessary for cleaning the hive before the spring flight of bees. Some beekeepers leave a space of 40-60 mm, and place a container of insect food under the frames.
  

  The subframe space forms a steam-air valve, without which the activity of the swarming state of the bee colony will decrease, since the flying bees will not sit on the combs with brood.

• letok. This is the hole that allows the bees to fly out and return to the hive. It is cut in the front of the case, often at the bottom, since the top hole takes about a third of the heat. It is closed with a hinged latch, attached to the front wall of the housing using rotating hinges. Some models have two notches - upper and lower. The first of them opens in spring and summer, and closes in winter. The lower entrance is slightly opened for the winter season to provide fresh air.
  

  In the case of a removable bottom, the notch is often made just above the central part in the form of a semicircle with a diameter of 30 mm. If the bottom is nailed, then the diameter of the slot hole should be at least 100 mm, and the length should be about 10 mm.

• Store (store extension). The section of the hive that sits above the body. In this compartment, the bees put honey during the honeydew period, which greatly facilitates the task of collecting it for the beekeeper. Usually the store is made with the same linear parameters as the body, so it accommodates the same number of frames for honeycombs. Sometimes the extension is used to place the layer in the winter season, so it is insulated along with the body or made with double walls. Some models do not have a magazine.
  

  Experts advise using the store for small bee colonies that do not produce a large amount of a sweet product.

• liner. The upper part of the house that covers the store or nest box to protect the shoulders from precipitation and at the same time create an attic-like air space that helps maintain optimal temperature conditions in the hive. For ventilation and free movement of bees, a hole is made in the ceiling. If the roof liner replaces the roof, then it is made of plywood or board and sheathed thin sheet steel to protect the wooden parts of the hive from moisture.

Such structures are often equipped with the following components:

• framework. Depending on the shape of the hive, they can be square, low-wide or narrow-high, but in any case they have the same protruding edges - folds that rest on rails mounted on the walls of the store or case. The thickness of frames made of natural wood is often 10-40 mm. To assist the bees in creating combs, stainless steel wire or thick fishing line is sometimes stretched over them. Between the frames and the walls of the body, you need to leave 6 mm in order to form an inter-frame fishing rod through which the bees will fly after the construction of the combs.
• separators. Provide the necessary distance between the frames. The slots in them are made so that the worker bees can fly up. Permanent separators are either dot or line. The former fasten adjacent frames at the required distance only at one point, and the latter - along the entire lower bar. There are also profiled side dividers in the form of an extension of the side rails at the top, which prevents the combs created by the bees inside the frame from touching. It is also called a coat hanger and is usually about 100 mm long.
• Diaphragm (plug-in board). This is a plank or wood board, the width and height of which correspond to the internal dimensions of the case. It locates inside the hive and divides it into two parts. It is often used in the case of keeping two bee colonies in one house.
• Ruberoid stretcher. Sheet of roofing material, the length and width of which corresponds to the dimensions of the bottom of the hull. It is inserted into the hive through the notch when replenishing the hive with food for the winter. During the winter season, wax crumbs and deadness accumulate on it, so in early spring it must be removed and stored until the end of the season.
• Dividing grid. It is installed between the body and the magazine so that the uterus does not move from one part of the hive to another. The grate is made of wire or plastic and has cells no less than 4.2 mm in size. Thus, worker bees pass freely through them, but queens and drones with larger sizes remain in the main nesting section.
• ventilation frame. Lightweight construction from wooden slats with a metal mesh stretched over them, the cells of which have dimensions of 3x3 mm. It fits in the upper part of the hive instead of the ceiling panel, but sometimes the ventilation window is also made in the liner itself.
• Hinged panels. Used to connect the body and magazine extension. Loops are attached at the corners on the front wall of the hive, between the body and the store. With their help, you can tilt or completely remove the magazine to free up the interior of the nest housing. Some models use retractable brackets instead of hinges.
• Connecting tape. Guarantees reliable connection case, store and liner. To do this, it is installed along the docking lines. As a rule, a steel strip tape is used, the width of which is 25 mm and the thickness is 2 mm.

The following diagram shows the basic structure of the hive, where 1 is the base, 2 is the bottom, 3 is the body, 4 is the divider, 5 is the magazine with frames, 6 is the ceiling, 7 is the lid:

The main types of hives with drawings

With your own hands, you can make a hive of different shapes and sizes. We will consider the most popular options among beekeepers separately.

Found in almost all apiaries. It is made of wood - cedar, spruce, pine, linden or aspen. As follows:

Its clear advantage is simplicity, spaciousness and modularity. The classic model consists of 12 frames, but as the bee colony grows, it can be supplemented with new cases or magazines. Here is a drawing of a classic Dadan hive for 12 frames:

The cover can be made not flat, but 1- or 2-pitched, so that raindrops roll off the roof surface better.

According to the principle of construction, the design resembles a hollow, since during its development, the beekeeper Roger Delon tried to recreate conditions for bees that were as close to natural as possible.

Outwardly, the alpine hive is a multi-hull vertical "pyramid", since the nest boxes in it are located one above the other. Because of this, the design is compact, but has a large height, and also involves the following features:

• there are no partitions, ventilation gaps and grilles in the cases;
• in the lower part of the house, a notch is arranged through which natural air circulation is carried out and the accumulation of moisture is prevented, as well as the precipitation of condensate;
• a feeder or ceiling is made in the upper part of the hive to create an air cushion;
• all cases, except for the bottom one, do not have a bottom, therefore, combs or slats are fixed on the walls to install the frames;
• each compartment of the common body contains from 3 to 8 frames, depending on the number of individuals in the bee colony.

There is no need to insulate the walls of the hive, since in winter it is simply covered with a plastic bag.

The vertical type construction is made in several floors of 10 frames and takes up a minimum of space. Experienced beekeepers create hives of this type up to 7-8 floors and with their help collect more than 200 kg of honey in combs per season. Beginners, on the other hand, can use the option in a minimal version - with one body and a half store, since a large store nozzle will significantly increase the total volume of the structure and make it difficult to insulate the nest.

Here is a diagram of a multi-hull hive:

If individual blocks of the structure are equipped with pins, a more reliable structure can be obtained.

cassette hive

Unlike other models in such a hive, the nest boxes are made in the form of drawers, which are installed in a common case with bars fixed on its sides - skids, along which the cassettes will walk. The distance between the frames in the body must be at least 10 mm in order to, if necessary, isolate part of the hive from the main space with horizontal bars or plywood partitions.

On each retractable body of such a hive, notches are made, the central ones of which have a diameter of 25-30 mm, and slotted ones have a length of 200 mm and a height of 10 mm. If you plan to make a common door, then the holes for tapholes must be made in it, opposite the gaps between the cassettes. An arrival rail is attached under each entrance. The entire structure is protected by a shed roof, under which ventilation holes are provided.

A multi-cassette hive for 10 frames can be assembled according to the following scheme, where 1 is a single body, 2 are cassettes, 3 are frames, 4 is a dividing panel, 5 is a layer of insulation, 6 is protective covers, 7 are under-cassette sections:

The cassette hive requires more effort and materials to manufacture, but it is more convenient to transport than others, therefore it is the best option for exit apiaries.

Unlike the above models, this hive is horizontal and is great for accommodating several bee colonies. A similar design is a box, divided by stationary partitions into several parts, in each of which a separate family of bees settles with its queen.

The hive can be additionally equipped with a magazine by installing it on top of the nesting compartments or between them. For each of the departments in the lower part of the front wall, a notch is prepared. It is better to make a gable roof to protect the structure from precipitation and overheating in extreme heat.

The lounger can be made for one bee colony. Here is a drawing of such a primitive design:

Material selection

In the manufacture of a hive, you can use various materials:

• Wood. The classic option for building a bee house. Helps create a natural environment for insects. It is best to choose a native tree - cedar, although you can use linden or aspen, but the structure will have to be additionally insulated. These hives are dry, breathe well and smell good. The use of pine, spruce and fir should be abandoned - it is warm in such houses, but moisture and resin accumulate in them, and there is also a coniferous aroma.
  

  For the manufacture of the hive, you need to choose wooden boards, the humidity of which is kept within 15-16%.

• Plywood. It belongs to durable and environmentally friendly materials, but the structure of it needs to be covered with paint, and insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam to keep warm and dry. Plywood is extremely sensitive to moisture, so it needs constant and proper care.
• Styrofoam. Relatively new material in the manufacture of beehives. Attracts with low cost and no need for additional insulation in winter. Expanded polystyrene has its drawbacks - it is fragile and brittle. When using poor quality material, there is a possibility of deterioration in the properties of honey.
• Styrofoam. One of the most economical and affordable options, since you can even use packaging from household appliances. The foam construction is light weight even with filled frames and provides excellent thermal insulation, however it is very fragile and needs to be permanently painted to protect from the sun.
• Polyurethane. It has good thermal insulation and does not allow moisture to pass through, so fungi and bacteria do not develop inside the hive. This material is practically not gnawed by bees, mice and birds, but it has its drawbacks - it is highly combustible and practically does not let air through.

A hive made of any material should be painted white, as it is better remembered by insects and repels the sun's rays.

How to make a wooden beehive?

This design is often of two types - vertical and horizontal. We will consider the assembly of each model separately.

Beehive bed for 16, 20 and 24 frames

The principle of manufacturing a sunbed is the same, regardless of its capacity, but before proceeding with construction work, you need to correctly calculate its dimensions:

• For 16 frames. The thickness of the inner case is 2-2.5 cm. The height of its front and rear walls is 60.5 cm, and the length is 32 cm. The same parameters for the side walls are 53 and 32 cm, respectively. The thickness of the outer walls is 1.5 cm. The height of the front and rear walls is 67.5 cm, and the length is 50 cm. The same parameters for the side outer walls are 56 and 50 cm.
• For 20 frames. The thickness of the structure remains unchanged, but the dimensions of the walls are adjusted. The height and length of the front wall are 87 and 37 cm. The same parameters for the back wall are 87 and 44 cm, and for the sidewalls - 49 and 44 cm. The bottom parameters are as follows: height - 84 cm, width - 54.5 cm, thickness - 3.5 cm.
• For 24 frames. The body is made 84 cm long, 56.6 cm wide and 63.5 cm high. Its bottom should have a thickness of 3.5 cm. Outside, the length of the roof is 93.5 cm, and inside - 81 cm.

In order for the bee hive to turn out to be even and without large gaps, its dimensions must be strictly observed.

In the manufacture of a hive, you will need the following materials and tools:

• well-dried wooden boards, plywood, polystyrene;
• board processing machine;
• hacksaw or other tool for cutting blanks;
• a hammer;
• drill, drill, self-tapping screws;
• chisels;
• casein glue;
• square;
• pencil.

Instructions for assembling a sunbed of any size are as follows:

1. Cut the board to the desired size, and remove all burrs with a planer. Using sandpaper, sand its surface so that it is smooth and without defects.
2. Connect blanks for sidewalls with carpentry glue. To do this, grease the ends with it and press the parts on a flat surface. To fix on one side of the table, install a vertical edge, and on the other, fix the building level in the right place with clamps. On top, you can put another workpiece for additional pressure and eliminate unevenness.
   
   
3. In the same way, glue the end walls and the bottom of the box. Remove all irregularities found on the surfaces with a grinder.
   
   
4. Check the conformity of the dimensions and eliminate minor defects, and then assemble the box, the parts of which are fixed with glue and self-tapping screws. Level to check the accuracy of the angles.
5. From wooden planks (10x10 mm) make supports for the frames, fixing them with glue and nails. After checking the conformity of the dimensions of the parts.
   
   
6. For each edge of the box, create a frame using 40x20 mm rails.
   
   
7. Cut tapholes in the side wall with an electric jigsaw - two in the lower part and one in the center. During operation, open them as the bee colony grows. On the front and back walls, make grooves for frames measuring 1.8x1.1 cm.
   
   
8. Attach bottom. It can be assembled from two battens and flooring using soil and nails. In this case, it is worth making a protrusion beyond the bars of 2 cm.
9. Install polystyrene - leaves 20 mm thick and 25 kg per m3. Mount the lining on top. The resulting structure will be multi-layered and with good insulating characteristics.
   
   
10. Make a roof. To do this, cut boards 100 mm long and make a box out of them. Install a rail at the bottom and check that the dimensions match. Create a roof surface with clapboards, cut ventilation holes in it and close them with galvanized sheet to protect against atmospheric influences.
    
    



11. At the final stage, mount the arrival board, paint the box and install a special latch to secure the lid during transportation.
    
    
12. Use a flexible band to secure the top in the raised position.
    
    

Carry handles can be attached to the manufactured box.

How to assemble a budget hive for 12 frames can be found in the following video:

The optimal dimensions of such a house are 130x60x60 cm, and the height is measured from the roof ridge. Here is his drawing:

A similar design consists of such parts made of wood and metal:

• vertical racks of the case (1) 48.6x3.2x1.8 cm - 4 pcs.;
• vertical racks of the store (2) 15.4 x3.2x1.8 cm - 4 pcs.;
• longitudinal bars of the bottom of the nesting compartment (3) 42.4x3.2x1.8 cm - 2 pcs.;
• transverse bars for the nest compartment, magazine, bottom and liner (4) 60x3.2x1.8 cm - 10 pcs.;
• longitudinal bars for the nest compartment, store, bottom and liner (5) 56.4x3.2x1.8 cm - 12 pcs.;
• transverse bars for the bottom of the nest box (6) 56.4x3.2x1.8 cm - 2 pcs.;
• ridge roof beam (7) 56.4x3.2x1.8 cm - 1 pc.;
• roof truss legs (8) 39.2x3.2x1.8 cm - 2 pcs.;
• roof rafter legs (9) 42.4x3.2x1.8 cm - 2 pcs.;
• footboards (10) 8x8x0.3 cm - 4 pcs.;
• supporting legs in the form of a steel corner (11) 50x5x5x0.3 cm - 4 pcs.;
• covering the ridge beam in the form of an aluminum corner (12) 68x5x5x0.3 cm - 1 pc.;
• facing board (13) 6-8 mm thick - 1 pc.;
• arrival board (14) 46x7x0.6 cm - 1 pc.;
• plywood panel with ventilation holes (15) 46x46x1.2 cm - 1 pc.

To make the indicated structural elements, as well as to insulate it, you need to prepare the following materials:

• plywood 10-12 mm thick;
• timber with a section of 32x18 mm - 20 linear meters;
• unedged board or wooden lining 6-8 mm thick;
• nails 5 cm long;
• screws 2.5 cm long;
• steel corner 200 cm long;
• aluminum corner (5x5x0.3 cm) 70 cm long;
• steel plates (8x8x0.3 cm) - 4 pcs.;
• a sheet of steel with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm and a size of 60x100 cm for roofing (instead of it, you can use the same board as for wall cladding);
• folding loops - 4 pcs.;
• window hinges (5x3 cm) - 2 pcs.;
• linen insulation;
• linseed oil for wood impregnation;
• wood paint.

Of the tools you will need:

• welding machine;
• electric drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw or wood saw;
• grinder for cutting metal;
• tape measure, square, pencil;
• a hammer;
• paint brush.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start making the hive, following these instructions:

1. Prepare frame parts. To do this, plan the timber, soak it with linseed oil, mark and cut into blanks using electric jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw for wood. To prevent the beam from cracking when driving nails, hammer them at an angle. You can pre-drill a hole in it at an angle of 30 °, the diameter of which is 1-1.5 mm less than the thickness of the nail leg.
2. Make the lower frame of the frame, after laying out the timber along the building corner so that the corners do not warp. Fasten each side with two nails or self-tapping screws, driving them through a longer beam into the end of a short one. Assemble the upper case frame in the same way. Next, connect 2 frames to each other with vertical angular bars.
3. Measure 18.2 cm from the lower frame and at this level, between the vertical posts on the front and rear sides of the frame, nail horizontal bars so that their upper edge coincides with the top of the steel corner of the legs.
4. Measure 5.2 cm from the edges of the fixed beam and nail bars No. 6 perpendicular to them along the walls. Between them and the vertical uprights, there will be a space in which the corners-legs should fit freely. They will serve as a stand for the ventilation grill and the inner corridor leading from the entrance. Measure 5.5 cm from the edges of these bars and fix short bars No. 3 perpendicular to them.
5. Assemble the magazine extension by first making the lower and upper frames, and then fastening them together with vertical stalls.
6. Fasten the roof elements. To do this, initially assemble the lower frame, and then fix the truss elements installed at an angle on it and connect them together with a ridge beam. At this stage, the assembled structure looks like this:
   
   
7. Prepare the legs of the hive. To do this, mark the steel corner and cut it into segments 50 cm long. Mark 2 holes at 2 cm from the upper edge of the corner, and 2 more at 18 cm. Their diameter is 5 mm. Next, take steel plates and weld them to the legs from the side opposite to the drilled holes.
   

   Some beekeepers use wood to make the legs of the hive, but in this case, the material must first be carefully treated with a protective solution, since in the future the stand will need to be deepened into the ground to ensure the stability of the house.

8. Press the finished legs to the bottom of the vertical racks of the frame, and then screw them with self-tapping screws through the prepared holes. The optimal distance from the footrest to the lower beam of the frame frame is 30 cm.
9. On the inner side of the beam of the upper frame of the store and the socket housing, fasten the protruding stops on which the frames will be attached. Fasten slats 8-9 mm wide along the entire length of the side bars of the frame. On one of the sides of the hive on the roof frame and the upper frame of the store, as well as on the lower frame of the store and the upper nest box, fasten folding hinges. In the future, this will help to easily remove frames with honeycombs from the hive.
   
   
10. Sheathe the front side of the nest box with facing material - wooden boards, pre-treated with linseed oil. Mount them at an angle to the frame beam so that each top board rests on the bottom one.
11. In the fixed casing of the lower part of the hive, cut a notch in the form of a rectangular hole measuring 46x7 cm. Save the cut-out part of the board to use it to equip the folding door.
    
    
12. Under the cut out window, fix a small board as a stand for the entrance flap door. When opened, it will turn into an airstrip.
    
    
13. Fasten the cut-out part of the skin on the hinges, which are installed under it so that it opens outward. To fix the door in the closed position above the cut out hole, use self-tapping screws to fix a plank or a metal strip, which should turn over freely and become a simple latch.
    
    
14. From the inside of the entrance hole, fasten the corridor board to the frame beam. Next, insulate the floors. To do this, turn the nest box over, lay linen mats on the bottom of the boards and cover them with waterproofing material. Sheathe the bottom from the outside with plywood. Sheathe the remaining sections of the hive from the inside with plywood, and then install linen mats into the frame frames from their outer side. From above, cover the insulation with a windproof waterproofing film.
15. Cover the roof with the same board as on the walls, or with galvanized steel sheet. In the second case, 2-3 rafters should be added to the slopes of the structure, and then sheathe the roof with plywood and only after that lay a metal coating.
    The second option is optimal, since it eliminates the risk of blood leakage. If boards are used, then start fixing them from the eaves of the roof and lead sequentially to the ridge. Mount each subsequent board with an overlap on the previous one. At the end, fasten an aluminum corner to the roof ridge.
16. Install a plywood panel with ventilation holes in the under-roof space. When operating the hive, install a dividing grid between the magazine and the body, and a feeding trough with syrup on the panel and bottom.

The outer lining of the hive can be done both before installation in a permanent place, and after digging the supports into the ground.

How to make a beehive out of Styrofoam?

A typical styrofoam object is a 44x25 cm body, which has a lid, a bottom and a feeder. Wooden frames weighing about 10-12 kg are mounted inside it.

For the manufacture of the structure, the following materials and tools will be required:

• expanded polystyrene sheet;
• wood screws 5-7 cm long;
• sandpaper of small grain size;
• liquid Nails;
• aluminum mesh with mesh sizes up to 3.5 mm;
• water-based coloring mixture;
• steel corner;
• a circular saw or clerical knife with a reliable, hard blade to ensure evenness of the cut parts;
• screwdriver;
• a metal ruler with a length of at least 100 cm.

To make a bee hive, you must follow this plan:

The beehive can be insulated with tiles, the thickness of which corresponds to the dimensions of the finished product, but varies between 2 cm, 3 cm or 5 cm.

Instructions for making a beehive from polyurethane

Creating a hive from such material is a rather laborious process, so it is advisable to divide it into several stages, each of which we will consider below.

Case assembly

To do this, you need 8 metal plates - 4 for the outer and inner contours. Between the opposite sides you need to install spacers, and fasten the outer tiles with bolts. In order to form notches in the housing for gripping, to internal parties external tiles screw metal lining.

Make the base and the closing cover with grooves into which the plates will be inserted. Apply metal strips along the edges and connect them with bolts. Drill holes along the inner and outer perimeter of the body so that threaded metal rods can be inserted into them during assembly. Screw the bolts on them, holding the entire structure. Make a hole in the lid for pouring the mixture and mount a valve with a plug to close it.

Bottom and roof installation

The roof is made of two rectangular parts, one of which should have protruding sides along the edges, and the other should have a protruding rectangular inner part.

The bottom is a rectangular frame with a metal mesh in the center. It is best to assemble it from separate polyurethane foam bars, fastening them with bolts.

Separately, you need to make molds for the bars - side, rear and front. Lay out a strip of metal along the inner perimeter of all the bars to form folds. Lay and nail a metal mesh on them with a stapler. It is better to place the front bar lower in height to obtain a notch opening.

After casting in the inner sidewalls, use a cutter to select a groove for the bottom valve. Cut it out of polycarbonate. The rear bar should also be placed lower in height in order to insert the valve into the resulting slot and direct it into the grooves of the side walls.

Preparation of a mixture of polyurethane foam

This material is obtained by the reaction of a polyol and a polyisocyanate. When pouring the mixture, it is necessary to correctly calculate the total mass, adhering to the following order:

1. Calculate the volume of the hive part and multiply it by the width, thickness and length.
2. Multiply the resulting value by the technological loss factor (1.15) and the estimated density of polyurethane foam (60 kg / sq. M).

As a rule, for one hive body 5 cm thick, about 1.5 kg of polyol and 1.7 kg of polyisocyanate are consumed. The mixture must be poured very quickly - in 10 seconds, as it quickly hardens. For mixing and pouring, use special devices or a conventional construction mixer. In the second case, pour the polyisocyanate into a flexible container and immediately mix it with a mixer, and then pour in the polyol and stir for 3 seconds. After that, pour the finished composition into the mold.

Extraction and staining of the hive

Within 30 minutes, the mixture solidifies. After that, the bolts holding the rods must be unscrewed. Knock down the top of the mold with a wooden block and a hammer. Next, unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, but proceed carefully so as not to deform the structure. So go two circles over all the bolts and remove the spacers. Remove excess polyurethane foam along the edges of the body with a sharp knife.

At the end, sheathe the structure with fine-grained sandpaper, and paint the facade with acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet rays. Paint the house within a week after production, but not earlier than after 8 hours.

You can make a bee hive with your own hands, using various drawings and materials for this. In addition, you first need to choose one of the options for a similar design, taking into account the region of residence and the size of the apiary. In any case, the finished hive must be completely airtight and have good thermal insulation properties.

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