To work with drywall, various materials are used. The most common method of building profile metal frames, however, quite often you can find wooden structures.
Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical Properties
The frame for drywall is made from high-quality coniferous wood.
Make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.
Main physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used;
- For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different thicknesses of the plasterboard are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 ×14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
- The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
- Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
- The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm;
- The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.
You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.
Chemical processing
Treatment with an antiseptic is a condition for the long service life of lumber.
In addition to fire treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.
This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and collapses;
- biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
- carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
- rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.
Insect pests can damage wood in a short time.
Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.
It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.
Sodium fluoride sinks well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.
An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.
Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.
The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:
- creosote,
- coal,
- shale,
- anthracene oils.
These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.
Installation of a wooden frame under drywall
Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls
Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to Build a Drywall Partition: Features.)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the GKL sheet.
It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.
A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.
This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the legs correspond to the 3rd and 4th, and the hypotenuse to the 5th.
At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we build an arc of a circle in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.
Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
Connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. With the help of a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also Drywall Niches in the Wall: How to Make.)
Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we should get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.
Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.
Frame mounting
Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.
As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.
To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.
If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.
The Knauf bracket can be used to mount the beams to the wall.
We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.
So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.
Doorway
The doorway is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.
Racks
Racks should be installed vertically in level.
To determine the location of the jumper (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and place the jumper in place of its edge so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.
Advice!
To connect the bars, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembly truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.
We check each detail according to the level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.
You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.
All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.
The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.
The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.
It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.
Tool
To work, you will need a standard set of tools for wood.
So, you will most likely need a set like this:
If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store. Also don't forget about mineral wool required for soundproofing.
You can use thick mats so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a grid or other basis that prevents the material from caking.
Conclusion
Assembling a wooden frame for plasterboard is a simple job that does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of assembling the structure.
Drywall is great for interior decoration walls. With its help, you can make absolutely smooth walls, while only a real professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Drywall is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.
There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. In this way, you can hide communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.
Tools and materials:
- Laths from soft grades of wood. The optimal section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but less is possible.
- Drywall screws
- screwdriver
- Wall dowels
- Drill
Advice. Sound and heat insulating material can be laid under the drywall sheets. For greater effect, you can use heat-insulating drywall.
Process:
- With chalk, draw marking lines for fastening the rails along the perimeter of the wall and for vertical rails. Calculate the spacing between the vertical battens so that the edges of each drywall sheet are in the middle of the next batten. Cut the slats to the required length with a saw.
- We fasten the rails to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
- Between the attached racks of those de wooden slats, install spacers. They must be adjusted to the size of the drywall sheets so that the joints between the sheets fall in the middle of the spacer. However, nail the slats at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails into their ends.
- In those places where the slats do not fit snugly against the wall, place supports from scraps of wood or drywall between them and the wall.
- When the base mesh is ready, we begin to fix the drywall. Recall that its edges should pass exactly in the middle of the racks and struts. For fasteners, it is best to use screws - they will reduce the risk of splitting drywall. Mark the fastener every 15 mm and so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. Where the drywall sheet is too large, cut it to size with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- We seal the joints between the sheets of drywall. Use adhesive reinforcing tape to seal the seams or regular tape, sticking it with a small amount of plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster, and then with tape. Cover the tape on top with putty so that you get a very sloping imperceptible elevation along the seam. After sanding and painting it will be invisible.
- The wall is ready! Now you can cover it with plaster or do the usual finish, for example, glue the wallpaper.
Working with GCR, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders prefer frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.
Drywall finishing of a wooden house
Some prefer to use wooden floors due to environmental cleanliness material despite its shortcomings. These are: biological corrosion, susceptibility to climatic influences and combustibility. Special processing will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame for drywall, you should know important points that provide reliability.
Installed frame for plasterboard sheathing Do-it-yourself bars are used to build a partition coniferous trees with different section sizes, the choice of which depends on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition being erected.
The main requirements, under which the design will last longer:
- The humidity level in the room is less than or equal to 18%;
- For partitions, the height of which does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the crate is 6x4 cm;
- For partitions over 3 m - crate and riser with the same section, which is 6x5 cm.
- The choice of drywall depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional, the higher the structure, the thicker the drywall;
- Regardless of the chosen height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
- Processing that reduces the ignition index of the material is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
- Fastenings are carried out using nails, screws, spikes. Using the latest type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
- For sound insulation use mineral wool with a thickness of at least 5 cm and not more than 6 cm;
- The thickness of the new partition with the highest value of 132 mm and the lowest value of 85 mm;
- The calculation of the insulation index is based on the selected thickness of the partition. It varies between 41 - 51.
Do-it-yourself drywall finishing Before starting the installation, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time, she will acclimatize.
Chemical treatment is no less important stage than fire fighting. It is aimed at a productive struggle with a variety of factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:
- Mold and fungus render the lumber used unusable, which is further fraught with destruction;
- Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
- Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna make the material unusable;
- Rodents are no less dangerous. A special composition is able to scare them away.
antiseptic Various antiseptics are chemical compositions. Due to efficiency, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows sodium to penetrate deeper. The indisputable priority is the poor washability of the solution, it does not decompose, has no unpleasant odor, is non-toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.
Sodium silicofluoride is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination turns the first substance into a pure composition of sodium fluoride.
Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential premises. It:
- Anthracene oils;
- Shale;
- Carboniferous;
- Creosote.
They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.
Wood damaged by insects Partition frame assembly
Installation begins with tracing - markup. It is applied to the floors used for the construction - walls, floor, ceiling. Initially, the gap is measured on which the partition will be placed. From the intended line, the width of the GKL used is additionally measured.
For these purposes, it is advisable to use the ceiling-wall line. Having outlined the required point on the ceiling, it is transferred down, it is easy to do it yourself using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is hammered, to which the plumb line clings, at the opposite point, where the plumb line points, a mark is made. Connecting the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.
The resulting point, after drawing the perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. Thus, the third line is obtained. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle comes out, which acts as the basis for the partition.
tracing Frame and features of its installation
Frame - a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally arranged bars and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the lines outlined earlier. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or self-tapping screws as fasteners. Otherwise, it's screws and dowels. The frame is fastened with brackets or hangers.
Installation involves the use of integral bars. Especially when it comes to doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), solid bars must be on its sides. Holes are made with an impact drill used for concrete surfaces.
Shaping the future door
After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. In order for the work to be done with your own hands, follow the sequence of actions:
- Risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the installed door. The opening is about 5 cm wider;
- The risers are reinforced with bars to give additional rigidity;
- The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and set them vertically. They serve as a docking point for the GKL and give greater rigidity.
Finished frame Final stage of work
Installation assumes the presence of a step between the racks of 60 cm, at least. If the size of the drywall is less than the height of the ceilings, horizontal jumpers are installed, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.
Determining the location of the vertical jumper (above the door frame) is easy. It is enough to attach the installed GKL and put a mark. The edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the jumper.
For people who do the installation with their own hands, the masters give advice: it is better to connect the bars with metal plates and corners that are used in the assembly of truss systems. They are reliable and withstand heavy loads.
Observe the horizontal and vertical jumpers and racks. To determine them, use the level. When installing the racks with your own hands, they are placed so that the maximum number of whole sheets of drywall is attached to the wall. This saves material and time.
It is easy to assemble such a wooden structure with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology of cladding the GKL of a wooden frame is similar to that in the case of working with a metal structure. Doubters can watch the video and see the truth of these words.
For the construction of wooden partitions, high quality lumber is used.
Insulation needed
If the partition performs not only a decorative function, the craftsmen advise to insulate it. Installation of insulation is carried out after sheathing with sheets of gypsum plasterboard on one side of the wooden structure. Foam materials or mineral wool are most often used.
Doing this step with your own hands is not difficult, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Rigid insulating materials are fixed to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.
In contact with
Despite the fact that there is currently a way to install drywall on a metal profile frame, many people prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.
It is preferable if you need to mount a single-level ceiling or just sheathe a wall. This method is cheaper, dried in a chamber does not deform, perfectly withstands such a load and is able to reliably serve for many years. In addition, such installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who lead the plasterboard sheathing on their own.
Installation of a rack frame for a suspended ceiling
- 1
Preparatory work.
Before starting installation work, the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. Its design position is marked from it: 5 cm retreat, and with the help of a level, a horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter. If the work is done correctly, then the start and end points should match. A rail is attached along this horizontal with the help of self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.
- 2
Installation of longitudinal rails.
Next, you need prepare longitudinal slats for the crate. The profile is chosen from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. Possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by squeezing the rail, or small pieces of thick cardboard are placed in the cavities. Longitudinal rails are fastened with self-tapping screws to the ceiling surface.
- 3
Lathing installation.
For wooden framing choose slats dried in a special drying chamber. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that the raw material, when dried, can lead to the loss of self-tapping screws from the body of the wood. If the material good quality, then slats are fixed in increments of 50 to 70 cm. For regions with a humid climate or if the room is not well ventilated, step is better to reduce to 40cm. It is not worth saving on self-tapping screws. In any case, reliable fastening of the frame rails to the ceiling will provide you with a long and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.
- 4
Installation of longitudinal rails for connecting drywall sheets.
Suitable size for work - 25 * 80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, it guarantees the reliability of the installation. It is necessary to mark the future location of the rails in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After that, the electrical cables are laid and the installation of drywall begins.
With us you can install drywall only from high-quality lumber. It has undergone special drying in chambers, so its surface is dense with the required moisture level of 12-14%. The slats do not deform and easily withstand loads as a supporting frame. Mounting on wooden rails is simple, reliable and fast.
Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase excellent goods at the lowest price and repair your home at no extra cost.
A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability to a supporting structure made of metal profiles.
Gypsum boards (gypsum plasterboards) are a fairly complex material of the composite type. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main among them is high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using GKL, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it favorably from other construction activities.
Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:
- standard;
- fire resistant;
- moisture resistant.
Types of drywall sheets
GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, KNAUF) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for flooring. Due to the fact that GKL does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally friendly) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.
Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Nowadays, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for performing various kinds repair work. They make both simple designs and chic multi-level structures. Due to this, you can create the most modern bright and original design in your home.
There are the following technologies for mounting drywall sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.
The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of GKL is allowed only on a flat wall. But with the help of a frame technique, drywall can be fixed on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.
Frameless installation method GKL
The frame technology for mounting GKL is a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the structure skeleton and the wall surface.
The frame for the subsequent installation of drywall sheets on the wall is easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will erect a skeleton for a plasterboard in a matter of hours. And then it will also quickly fasten drywall to a self-made structure.
In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is also a simpler method. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from light and easy-to-install wooden products (battens, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.
It is recommended to build a frame for mounting the GKL on the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo a special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or laths. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:
- rodents (the smell of an antiseptic well repels mice and other animals that can damage the structure);
- mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
- carpenter insects;
- biological natural decay.
It is allowed to do the antiseptic protection of wood with your own hands. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to mix the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process with the resulting composition all the elements of the future frame for drywall.
Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood
Fluorine antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during operation. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. Almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium silicofluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, add a little soda (calcined) to it.
It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compounds containing the following components:
- anthracene oils;
- coal;
- creosote;
- slate.
The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before arranging the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to give wooden products lie down in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to the humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.
The construction we are interested in is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools - hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, levels. Nails and mounting dowels are used as fasteners.
Important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also desirable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. The implementation of the adhesive technology for mounting GKL with their own hands in such high rooms is recognized by professionals as inappropriate.
Installation of plasterboard on a frame structure
A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:
- Analyze the state of the wall surface. Found irregularities are sealed with putty (plaster), areas with a peeling old coating are cleaned.
- Mark up the wall. Perform this operation with strict observance of levels and angles (use measuring tools).
- The horizontal beam is mounted first. It should be fixed to the floor base with anchors.
- Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed beam. They should be about 1 cm from the edge of the crate. The distance between the individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
- Check the correct position of the rails with a level.
- Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.
Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, you should align the frame made. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal beam can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of chipboard products under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fix all its parts. That's the whole technology of assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to proceed with the installation of the GKL on a skeleton made by yourself.
The installation of drywall sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GCR is fixed with wood screws. The mounting step of the hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with a length of no more than 3.5 cm.
Installation of drywall sheets on a wooden frame
Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with jagged galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the GKL (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the GKL. According to them, you can subsequently easily close the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).
Finally, we add that the fasteners must be installed as carefully as possible. Make sure that the heads of nails or self-tapping screws do not break through the front side of the plasterboard. Such fasteners hold the sheets very poorly. Over time, drywall products will begin to walk and loosen up, which, quite possibly, will lead to the destruction of the entire structure.
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