Scab of apple and pear and apple trees is a fairly common disease that spoils a significant part of the crop. However, with timely preventive maintenance, a harmful fungus may not appear at all.

The name of the stone fruit disease is the same for pears and apples, but its causative agents are different. Yes, fungus hit the apple tree, not dangerous to a standing pear.

Manifestation of scab

Apple and pear scab: control measures

• For preventive purposes, infected leaves are destroyed, which, after autumn leaf fall, can be burned, buried in the ground in the trunk circle, and put into compost. If you didn’t have time to do this in the pre-winter, remove the foliage in the spring. In a pear, in addition, the affected branches are also cut off.
• Trunk circles are freed from weeds, mulched with peat or humus.
• In wet weather, tree crowns should be blown out and well lit. Therefore, the crown is cut off annually, dry and diseased branches are removed, as well as those that thicken the tree.

Features of treatment

Complex treatment

Gives the best results . After harvest, until autumn leaf fall, trees are sprayed ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate. These drugs are used at a concentration of 10%. For potassium chloride and potassium sulfate, the concentration should be 3-10%. Potassium nitrate and potassium salt should have a concentration of 5-15%.

Processing is carried out at an air temperature of at least 4 ° C. This measure contributes to the destruction of both scab and other dangerous fungi and various pests, increases productivity.

There are varieties of pear and apple trees scab resistant. Be aware that early varieties of apple trees are more likely to be affected by scab.

in number early varieties apple trees include:

The following varieties resist scab well:

• Cinnamon New;
• Welsey;
• Pepin saffron and others.

More disease-resistant varieties of pears:

• Lada;
• Chizhevskaya;
• Space;
• Northerner.

With timely preventive measures against scab on pear and apple trees, at the first signs of the manifestation of the disease, the disease will recede.

In rainy summers, a large number nutrients washed out from the top layer of the soil. In such conditions, trees are stronger are affected by diseases and tolerate frosts worse. Regular fertilization will help prevent this.

Scab on a pear - how to fight?

For the fight, fungicidal drugs are offered. Before use, read the instructions and follow the prescribed precautions.

The most popular drugs are copper-based products. The fungus quickly dies under the influence of this trace element. Despite the high efficiency drug, it has its drawbacks and features:

Drugs are sold in specialized stores. You need to process the pear three times:

• when buds appear;
• after flowering;
• before autumn harvest.

The last spraying is carried out at least two weeks before harvest.

Bordeaux mixture

The fungicide contains copper sulfate and lime. The drug is available in the form of a powder, which is diluted with water and applied to the affected areas of the plant. Gardeners advise cooking water solution in the following concentrations:

• 3% solution for treatment in very advanced cases before flowering;
• 1% solution after flowering.

During the season, the pear is processed no more than four times. If the product does not protect well enough, the fungus is not afraid of copper and multiplies, up to seven chemical treatments allowed.

Bordeaux liquid

The preparation includes the same active substances as in the Bordeaux mixture, but diluted with water. The tool is available in plastic bottles volume of 100 and 500 ml. Liquid is more expensive than powder.

An aqueous solution of scab eliminates no worse than a dry mixture. It must also be diluted with water to obtain the required concentration. The instructions indicate how to treat a plant with varying degrees of damage, the exact dosages are indicated.

Horus

Horus Soluble Granules contain no copper. The main active ingredient in the product is cyprodinil, also an effective fungicide. Protection against infection is achieved after two treatments: before and after flowering. You need to spray the pear with an interval of 10 days, the effect after that lasts a month.

The fight against scab should be carried out at the first sign of the disease. Chemical treatment is the only way to scab a pear when the fungus has already hit the tree, and brown spots have appeared on the leaves and fruits.

Following the rules of prevention and choosing resistant varieties, you do not have to worry about the fact that the tree is sick, and look for information on ways to get rid of scab.

We are growing pear trees. The second year something incomprehensible happens to her: it blooms beautifully in spring, and then the flowers dry up and fall off.

So right away, it’s hard to say what prevents a pear from living. But most likely pear affected by scab: it is with this disease that infected flowers cannot form ovaries; they disappear, crumble. On pear leaves, scab spreads from the bottom of the leaf in the form of small foci, zones, spots.

On young leaves, these disease-causing areas can be large (up to 14 mm in diameter), and in the second phase of the summer season, when a pear is infected with scab, they change in size, decrease by two to three times.

If you do not carry out protective spraying, then the leaves will be severely affected and also crumble. The further development of the disease usually damages and negatively affects the processes of formation of the future pear crop, defective laying of fruit buds occurs.

If a fruit-bearing pears are affected by scab, this significantly degrades the quality of the fruit. Dark formations appear on them in the form of black spotting with an inherent coating, like on the affected leaves, conidial sporulation.

On the shoots of a pear we find the scab in the form of cracks and swellings, in them the source of the scab disease on the pear develops - the mycelium of the fungus, and in the spring of next year the initial infection develops there - conidia.

Pathogenic swellings on the shoots of the pear burst, and the scab spores come out, the infected areas of the plant are covered with small cracks and peel off a little.

Scab appears on a pear from the causative agent - a marsupial fungus, which forms on the leaves that have fallen to the ground, which have lain until spring, affected by scab, the primary infection - bagospores.

In May, in the third decade, a new wave of scab on a pear develops a secondary infection, and over the summer period, the scab infection resumes more than five times. Young leaves on a pear are the first in the scab affected area, but those older than 25 days are not afraid of the scab pathogen. In any case, if you want to have a stable harvest every year, you need to carry out protective measures on pear trees - both agrotechnical and chemical ones.

How to spray a pear from scab?

Experts strongly advise, in particular, to carefully destroy the entire wintering infection in a young fruit-bearing garden. Of course, it was possible to collect and take out all the fallen leaves outside the site. But those who did not touch the leaves did the right thing, but treated them in late autumn with a 5% solution of urea or ammonium sulphate (500 g per ten liters of water).

The same tree spraying preferably in early spring, before bud break. In this case, mineral fertilizers will not only destroy the primary infection of the scab, but also feed the plants. Scab-infected annual shoots will need to be cut and burned, and trunk circles dug up.

Early spring should find time and for spraying pear 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of freshly slaked lime per ten liters of water). This work will need to be continued during the growing season. In this case, you can take one of the preparations for spraying: 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate and lime per ten liters of water), cuproxate (50 ml each), fast (2 ml), saprol (20 ml), Vectra (3 ml) per ten liters of water.

The number of pear sprays from scab and the intervals between them depend on the weather (if wet, increase their number). It is accepted that the breaks between spraying pears from scab should be at least 10 days.

Last year, our pear was affected by scab. What to do now so as not to ruin this year's harvest?

At the beginning of bud break, it was necessary to carry out a blue spraying of the pear with a three percent Bordeaux mixture. Even if you have done this, spray pear and apple trees in the phase of a slight bud opening ("pink bud") with a fast preparation (2 g per ten liters of water).

Repeat spraying soon (2 g per 10 liters of water) immediately after flowering. 10-14 days after the coarsening of the leaves, experts recommend spraying the pear with one percent Bordeaux liquid, and repeat this spraying three weeks later. Is it labor intensive? But what to do - your bag, they say, does not pull your shoulders.

Pear varieties resistant to scab.

This is Bere Hardy, Bere Bosk, Clapp's Favorite.

To make your life easier, not to make so much effort to fight scab, it is advisable to have resistant pear varieties in your garden. There are many of them, both domestic selection and foreign. Among them are Vrodlyva, Zolotovorotskaya, Etude, Vyzhnitsa, Tavriyskaya, Trembita, Stryiskaya, Margarita Marilla and some others.

Apple scab is a fungal disease. It is important not to let it develop and start take action as soon as scab appears on the apple tree. How to deal with it? Let's talk about this further.

As a result of inaction, by autumn, instead of beautiful, juicy and delicious apples small, deformed fruits will hang on the tree, which are not stored for a long time and have an unpleasant taste.

One of the most serious tasks of a gardener is how to save an apple tree from scab.

Scab is a disease in which young shoots, leaves, fruit stalks and apples become strewn with rounded dry spots of small size.

Such damage is caused by the spores of the marsupial fungus. Spores hibernate on fallen leaves and crumbling damaged fruits. Some of the spores persist in cracks in the bark and on dry old branches.

Favorable conditions for the onset of the development of the disease are cool and humid weather..

Awakening dispute begins then when the shoots start to grow on the apple tree and young leaves bloom. The spores are attached to the surface of the leaf, but do not penetrate inside.

Leaves at the tops of branches are damaged first.. It is easy to recognize the disease - the leaf is covered with light green spots. After a while, the spots turn brown and begin to crack.

Whether it is apple scab or pear scab, control measures for fruit trees will be the same.

The activity of the pathogen increases when the air temperature reaches + 20 °, it often rains or fogs rise. After 15 - 20 days, the disease passes to the ovaries of fruits, petioles and branches.

When damaged by scab, the fungus does not penetrate deep into the plant., photosynthesis is not disturbed, the tree continues to grow and set fruits.

With scab, the fruits are deformed.

But if the action of the fungus is not stopped at an early stage of development, then the fruits become small, deformed, lose their taste and stop accumulating vitamins and nutrients.

Through sores and cracks, the apple tree becomes vulnerable to other fungal and bacterial diseases.

In a sick person, the foliage begins to fall off ahead of time, most of the apples crumble on early stage development. An urgent need to develop an action plan on how to get rid of scab on apple trees.

Scab treatment on an apple tree

If a scab appeared on an apple tree, how to treat it - we will consider this important issue for the gardener later in the article. The fight starts with prevention. When laying a new garden, it is important:

Further, agrotechnical activities are carried out in the garden, which reduce the likelihood of infection of apple trees with scab:

• in autumn, all fallen leaves and damaged fruits are collected from under apple trees and burned. In some cases, instead of harvesting plant debris, deep digging of the soil can be carried out.

ATTENTION! Digging is effective only if scab infestation has not been observed or has been suspended in the current year. Otherwise, when digging in the next season, layers of earth with infected foliage may again be on the surface, which increases the likelihood of disease.

Apple tree nutrition.

Measures to combat scab on an apple tree also include proper care:

• Crown thinning not only prevent scab, but also increase yield;
• and the ground in tree trunks with fungicides. The use of pesticides, their concentration directly depends on the growing season. Chemicals are not removed from the fruit for a long time, this should be taken into account during processing. After the last treatment, at least a month must pass before you start eating the crop;
• Foliar apple trees with mineral fertilizers has a positive effect on productivity and destroys fungal spores.

Chemicals

In deciding how to cure an apple tree from scab, the dominant place is occupied by chemicals. These pesticides for scab control are toxic, so they are applied after the entire crop has been harvested.

If you are solving the problem of how to treat an apple tree for scab, it is important not to miss the moment of processing:

• leaves must fall, but at the same time the air temperature should not fall below + 5 °, otherwise the active substances will not work.
• The weather must be dry. If after treatment with chemicals it rained, then spraying will have to be repeated.

The whole apple tree, processing the trunk, skeletal branches and shoots.

Fungal spores are microscopic, they can hide in cracks in the bark and near the kidneys.

When is an apple tree treated for scab , except for the apple tree itself, tillage is carried out.

Possible options for dealing with apple scab in the fall are processing:

• Nitrafen, diluted 100 g per 10 liters of water;
• 3% Bordeaux mixture- copper sulfate 300 grams, lime 400 grams, water 10 liters.

Important! If these means are processed when the apple trees have not yet shed their leaves, then the burn of the green parts of the tree is inevitable.

If the scab is on the apple tree, what should I do in this case? Effective treatment with microelement solutions:

• Urea (urea)- prepare a 10% solution, for this, 100 grams of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water. You can not wait for all the foliage to fall, but you need to process the entire apple tree and crumbled foliage under it. If the infection was strong, then the destruction of the spores must be carried out twice with an interval of 10 days;
• Ammonium nitrate- strengthens the immunity of the apple tree, does not allow spores of the fungus to gain a foothold on the foliage. Prepare a 10% solution. Ammonium nitrate is equivalent to urea;
• Potassium chloride- from the scab, a 7% solution is used. In addition to the destruction of the causative agent of the disease, it strengthens the plant and improves the yield for the next year.

Mandatory fertilization.

Folk remedies for apple scab

Folk remedies in the fight against scab safer than chemical pesticides but less effective. Their application should be methodical and regular. Only then can scab disease be minimized.

If scab appeared on an apple tree during fruiting, how to deal with it? Here only folk remedies, because toxic chemicals should not be used during this period.

• Foliage under apple trees is not collected, but dig so that it is at a depth of 10 cm.
• The trunk circle is mulched with sawdust and spilled with Baikal EM-1 fertilizer.
• Fertilizer is used when the air temperature has not yet dropped to + 10 °.
• In the spring, re-digging is not carried out, but watered with this fertilizer again. The microorganisms contained in the fertilizer will accelerate the decay of the affected foliage and improve the composition of the soil.

Mulching apple trees.

• They carry out sanitary, cutting out all broken and diseased branches.
• They clean the exfoliating bark on the trunks, lichens and mosses.
• trees are carried out to the height of a raised hand, carefully all skeletal branches, forks and cuts. It is best to use garden paint, because it contains substances from many diseases and pests.

From scab, spraying apple trees with saline helps. 0.5 kg of salt is diluted in 10 liters of water. Processing is carried out after leaf fall.

IMPORTANT: Salt solution should not be used frequently, because it can cause salinization of the soil.

If the treatment is transferred to the spring, then this must be done before bud break.

Disinfect soil and bark in autumn on apple trees you can use a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate.

spring the solution is made weaker so as not to burn the young foliage.

This method can be used up to three times.

Prevention in the spring

If there is already a scab on the apple tree, the treatment is carried out in the fall (we described it), but preventive measures begin before the buds open on the apple tree in the spring.

Bordeaux mixture processed twice:

• Until the buds open, when the air temperature stops dropping below + 5 °;
• After the apple trees bloom.

For the first treatment, a 3% mixture is prepared, and after the leaves open, only 1% is prepared to prevent burns.

dry mustard dissolved in a small amount of water and poured into a bucket of water. All you need is 4 tablespoons of mustard powder.

It is best to spray immediately after rain, the solution adheres better to wet branches.

Processing time - mid or end of May. At the beginning of summer, re-treatment is carried out.

Used for prevention fresh horsetail. The bucket is filled with grass ¼, poured hot water and insist 3 days. Before processing, filter and add water to 10 liters. This preventive method can be applied several times during the growing season, with an interval of 2-3 weeks.

Increase immunity in apple trees, increase resistance not only to scab disease, but also to other diseases such means as "Epin" and "Zircon".

Application of fungicides

If the weather contributes to the rapid development of the disease, then to save appearance and the taste of apples will have to use fungicides.

They must be used strictly according to the instructions. and taking into account the time of removal of chemicals from the plant.

• "Horus" - 3rd class of danger. It is used both for the treatment of scab and for protection against it. Can be used at temperatures from +3°. If the air is heated to + 25 ° and above, the effect of the drug is reduced. Effective only on young trees.
• "Gamair" - hazard class 4, can be processed with an interval of 7-10 days, does not accumulate in fruits;
• "Fitolavin" - hazard class 3, acts quickly, penetrates deep into the tissues of the plant, can be addictive, so apply once;
• "Strobe" - hazard class 3, it is not washed off by rain, its action is not affected by air temperature, it is used no more than 3 times per season;
• "Skor" - hazard class 3, acts 2 hours after treatment, long-term effect on fungal spores, re-treatment after 2 weeks. Sprayed before flowering, in the phase of a pink bud, after shedding the petals;
• "Rayok" - hazard class 3, quickly penetrates deep into the plant, after 2.5 hours is resistant to rain, is used both for prevention and for the destruction of fungal spores. Should be alternated with fungicides with another chemical composition. The analogue of this tool is "Skor".
• "Abiga-peak" - hazard class 3, releases copper in an active form, prevents scab spores from penetrating deep, blocks oxygen from spores.

The use of iron sulphate

Iron vitriol to combat scab.

From scab on apple trees, iron sulfate helps.

It has low toxicity to humans. To combat scab, it is used in the fall after the leaves fall or in the spring before bud break.

For autumn use, a 7% solution is prepared: 700 grams of iron sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water.

In the spring, you can apply a 1% mixture, for this: 100 grams of powder are dissolved in a 10 liter bucket.

Important! Do not use a metal bucket.

Foliar treatment not only destroys fungal spores, but also improves the fruiting of old apple trees.

Features of the struggle at different times of the year

If scab is a frequent occurrence in your garden, then the fight and prevention should be carried out throughout the growing season - from early spring until late autumn.

First treatment in spring carried out when the air temperature is above + 5 ° -10 °.

Chemical treatment is important to carry out before the appearance of leaves.

At the same time, it is important to monitor the humidity of the air. The more it rains, the less incubation period the causative agent of scab, the sooner you need to start taking action.

IMPORTANT: processing of apple trees can not be carried out during the flowering period.

How to deal with scab on an apple tree in August?

Summer processing also depends on the weather. In dry hot weather, the disease stops. You should follow the weather forecast, because with the first rains the disease will resume.

Summer processing is carried out only in the early morning or evening. Spraying during the daytime in bright sun causes leaf burn.

In the heat, the agent quickly evaporates from the surface of the apple tree, the active substance does not have time to be absorbed and the treatment does not bring the desired results.

When the scab is on the apple tree, how to fight in the fall? Processing not carried out until the harvest. Most fungicides have a long decay period, and the chemical compounds are not removed from the fruit for 20-30 days. These apples should not be eaten.

Scab control is best done after the leaves have fallen.

The photo below shows apple scab on leaves and fruits. Treatment is detailed in the article above.

Scab control is carried out after harvest.

How to treat during fruiting?

During the fruiting period, folk remedies or preparations of biological origin belonging to hazard class 4 should be used to combat scab.

They are non-toxic to humans, bees, insects and fish in nearby waters. In addition to fighting scab, these drugs heal the soil, increase immunity in apple trees, and promote rapid growth and development of fruits.

10 - 15 days before harvest should not be processed by any means.. The fungus has already damaged the fruits, so nothing can be changed a few days before picking apples. The fight against fungal spores is carried out after the removal of the fruit.

Scab control

On some varieties of apple trees

Among the variety of varieties of apple trees the least resistant to scab disease are Melba and Golden Chinese.

When landing in Melba's garden should allocate a place for her on a hill well lit by the sun. With excessive moisture, scab damages the tree instantly, so prevention is a prerequisite for growing this variety.

Treatment as a preventive measure is carried out three times per season.:

• At the time of leaf blooming;
• After flowering;
• 20 days after the second treatment, when fruits are set.

The same can be said about the variety Golden Chinese. Only timely preventive measures will help this variety cope with the disease.

In different regions

The terms of processing apple trees from scab depend on the region. Thus, in middle lane the first treatment is carried out in late April or early May, in Ukraine or Crimea - in mid-April.

Time of processing depends on the stage of development of the apple tree. In any case, the first spraying is carried out when the buds burst and the tips of green leaves appear.

This stage is called the green cone phase. It was during this period that the active spread of scab spores began.

Phase green cone.

In the middle lane, spraying is carried out a second time when the young leaves bloom completely, after 15 days - the third time, after 10 days - the fourth.

In Ukraine and Crimea, three treatments are enough. The second is carried out in the rosebud phase, and the third - two weeks after it.

Whether it is still necessary to carry out spraying is determined by the results of observing the apple trees and depending on the frequency of rains.

Conclusion

The main fight against scab is carried out in the fall. Cleaning fallen leaves, damaged fruits, hygienic pruning of the crown and processing of trunks - by performing these agricultural practices, scab disease can be minimized.

Before fruit set preparations containing copper are effective. They destroy the bulk of fungal spores.

For the complete destruction of the scab, the treatment is carried out up to four times with an interval of 10-15 days..

Useful videos

See an expert review of what scab is:

See information from an expert on how to deal with scab:

Watch a video analysis from gardeners on the effectiveness of scab treatments:

Watch the video on how to make Bordeaux liquid:

As a preventive measure, it is desirable to use folk remedies or biological products that are not toxic to either humans or beneficial insects.

In contact with

A beautiful tree that can become the highlight of any.

But what to do when everyone's favorite tree is suddenly affected by scab?

What is dangerous and where does it come from

Scab- common fungal, often found in trees temperate climate. The causative agent is the marsupial fungus Venturia pirina. The danger is that plants with this disease cannot form ovaries and fall off.

If you miss this signal and do not treat it, then the scab passes to the leaves of the tree and they also crumble. All this negatively affects the quality of the future harvest, because fruit buds are laid incorrectly. If plants that bear fruit are infected with scab, then dark spots with a coating appear on them, spoiling the taste of the fruit.

Signs of defeat

Symptoms of the disease can be seen on all aerial parts of a pear- shoots, fruits, flowers and leaves. When the disease is just beginning to develop, small rounded spots appear on the leaves, which darken over time and fall on other parts of the plant. The photo below shows what this disease looks like. With the further development of the scab, the plant becomes covered with large brown spots, and the surface of the fruit cracks. As a result, fruits grow small and with deep cracks.

Did you know? The tree is widely used for making furniture and musical instruments. Also, kitchen appliances are often made from it, because such a tree does not absorb odors and does not deform from moisture.

Preventive measures

In order not to wonder how to treat scab on, preventive measures should be taken in time. Remember that prevention is useful even if the plant is healthy and brings good harvest. After all, there is always a risk of contracting the disease from neighbors who are nearby.

The main rules for protecting pears from scab:

1. The plant should grow in a well-lit and ventilated place. It is better if the trees are further away from each other.
2. It is worth monitoring the integrity of the tree, because broken branches and various cracks are the basis for the development of the disease.
3. Regularly (once a year) it is necessary to remove weak branches and treat cracks with a special liquid.
4. Fruits that fall to the ground should be picked up immediately to prevent fungus from getting on them.
5. After harvesting the entire crop, it is necessary to carry out a general cleaning of the garden. So, you should burn all the leaves, because in the future they can become the cause of the disease of the plant.

Important! If the signs of the disease have already appeared, preventive measures will not save the situation. In this case, it is worth using a special remedy for scab on a pear.

How to deal with "adversity"

Any disease in trees requires comprehensive measures, and scab is no exception. To once and for all get rid of this disease:

• plant combined with lime. Such an event should be held several times a year. Alternate spraying (you can also use copper oxychloride or) and copper sulphate also gives good results;
• regularly get rid of the affected parts of the tree (especially if they are young shoots);
• destroy spoiled fruits.

It is not enough to know how to process pears from scab, because there is also a certain tree processing schedule. In especially severe cases, the tree requires 5 procedures per year:

1. When the kidneys are just forming and swelling. Treatment with copper sulphate is recommended.
2. When the buds start to form. Good fit.
3. When the plant stops flowering. Again, the fungicide "Skor" is ideal.
4. Half a month after the last treatment.
5. This spraying is carried out on winter varieties pears in early autumn or late summer.

especially strongly apple scab spreads in wet years - in some years the infestation of susceptible varieties reaches 100%.

Its fungus overwinters on fallen leaves. In spring, the wind carries the spores to young leaves and fruits. Brown spots with a velvety coating appear on infected leaves and fruits, which grow, merging with each other.

The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that affects the kidney scales, leaves, petioles, ovaries, fruits, stalks, young shoots. The disease appears first on the underside of the leaves, which become infected when blooming, in the form of spots with a greenish-brown bloom. Young leaves are more affected. At severe scab damage the leaves on the trees dry up and fall off prematurely, wounds and cracks form on the branches, fruit twigs do not bear fruit the next year.

The spots on the fruits are black and gray-black. Under the spot, a layer of corky tissue develops, which interferes with the normal growth of the fetus. Affected apples and pears grow ugly and crack. In a pear, shoots are often affected by scab, in an apple tree - a one-year growth of plants in a nursery, less often - in a fruit-bearing garden. Small swellings appear on the bark of the shoots, the bark cracks, peels off, the affected shoots die off over time.

The causative agent of apple scab does not infect the pear, and vice versa.

The fungus overwinters in fallen leaves in the form of the rudiments of fruiting bodies, as well as in the form of mycelium on the affected shoots. Bagspores ripened in fruiting bodies germinate in a drop of water and infect young leaves of an apple tree even before the trees bloom, but maturation and ejection of bagospores lasts several months. The germinated bagospore forms spots of mycelium of the fungus on the leaves with a touch of conidiophores and conidia. Conidia secondarily infect leaves and fruits. During the season, 7-8 generations of spores develop. Precipitation is favorable for their dispersion.

Fruit, scab affected, differ in uneven development, their tissue cork, cracks form on the skin. Gradually, in the affected areas, the skin bursts, summer spores spill out from there, which germinate and infect new parts of plants in wet times.

Scab control measures

In autumn, after leaf fall, the leaves are raked and burned, the soil is dug up in the trunk circles and between the rows, covering the remaining leaves. In gardens heavily affected by scab, in autumn (after leaf fall), at an average daily air temperature of at least + 5 °, trees and the soil under them are abundantly sprayed with nitrafen (60% paste) - 200-300 g per 10 l of water. This eradicating spraying also partially destroys the hibernating stages of pests (eggs of mites, aphids, leafworms, moths, etc.).

Instead of treatment with nitrafen, spraying with mineral fertilizers can be carried out: 7% urea, 10% ammonium nitrate, nitrophoska or nitroammofoska. Before the leaves fall in autumn, the trees can be sprayed with a 4% urea solution. If the garden was not sprayed in the fall, in the spring, during the period of dormant buds, at an average daily air temperature of + 5 ° C, the eradicating spraying of trees and soil with nitrafen (60% paste) is carried out - 200-300 g per 10 l of water.

If the garden is not processed either in autumn or in early spring, and the trees are severely affected by scab, during bud break (“green cone”), “blue” spraying is carried out, that is, trees are treated with a mixture of copper sulfate and lime (respectively 300 and 400 g per 10 liters of water).

In areas where "blue" spraying was not carried out, during the period of isolation of buds, trees are treated with 1% - 100 g each and lime per 10 liters of water or copper oxychloride (90% w.p.) -30-40 g, polyhomom (80% s.p.) - 40 g or polycarbacin (75% s.p. or 80% s.p.) - 40 g (per 10 liters of water). Immediately after flowering, the garden is once again treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes.

The protection of the garden from scab is carried out taking into account the development of the disease in the season. In years unfavorable for the development of scab, 2-3 protective sprays are needed, in years of its strong development - 5-6. The interval between treatments is 2-3 weeks.

After flowering, polychom and polycarbacin are used (expenditure rates are indicated above). Copper sulphate should not be used, as a "net" is formed on the fruits. Processing should be completed no later than 20 days before harvesting the fruit. It is desirable to alternate drugs. It is not recommended to use polychom and polycarbacin more than six times per season.