How to grow and care for garlic outdoors for a good harvest. Growing winter garlic: everything from planting to harvesting How to grow winter garlic with large heads

It's hard to believe that garlic was once almost never used in the kitchen. Today there are more than 600 species of this amazing plant. It would seem that there is nothing difficult in growing it, I planted the largest cloves and got large bulbs. But this is a complete delusion, because the plant requires sufficient moisture and light, timely planting and harvesting, as well as light soil.

On sale you can find dozens of varieties of garlic, which differ in shape, color and number of cloves. Winter (winter) varieties are considered the most productive. Such plants have heads with a hardened arrow and are frost-resistant.

Spring (spring) garlic is inferior to winter garlic in yield, but it is better stored.

Winter varieties
The leader in size and yield is elephant garlic Rocambole. The diameter of the head can be 15 cm, the total weight is 1 kg, an individual clove is 20 g.

Lyubasha can be recognized by her pink color with purple streaks. Its teeth are large, reaching up to 20 g, heads up to 300 g.


The Bogatyr variety has impressive bulbs, up to 85 g. The advantage of this type is resistance to nematodes and good keeping quality.

Spring varieties

Among spring crops, one can distinguish a rounded-flat species of Gulliver, the bulb of which weighs 120 g and consists of 5 teeth.

Garlic cultivation and care

Garlic is mostly unpretentious, but there are special cultivation requirements for the plant that should be taken into account.

garlic - sun

Lack of sun is one of the most common problems that can be encountered when growing garlic. This condition negatively affects the productivity of the plant. The area with garlic should receive 3-4 hours of sunlight. The beds are made from west to east to achieve uniform lighting.

garlic - earth

Garlic grows best in a sunny, well-drained area. In addition, loose (crumbly), loamy soil is suitable for it. The site should be evenly damp, but a dry, heavy site will result in irregularly shaped bulbs. Every year, organic matter and a little sand are added under each bush, which makes the site loose.

Acid and heavy soils are contraindicated for the cultivation of garlic.

The acidity of the site is determined with a special device or observed for the growth of weeds. For example, lovers of sourness are sedge, horsetail and sorrel.

garlic - ash

The introduction of ash will not only enrich the soil, but also feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus minerals.
For the full growth of garlic, an organic product is used, but the ashes from synthetic items for feeding are unsuitable. Sometimes the ashes are prepared for the future and are initially applied during the preparation of the beds: in early autumn for the winter and in early spring for the spring species. The consumption rate of natural fertilizer depends on the composition and condition of the soil. As a top dressing, ash is sprayed about 4 times per season.

Fertilization can be:

  • Dry, when the ashes are sprayed between the beds and then loosened. This method is effective for disease prevention and pest control.
  • Irrigation from a watering can, in which ash is used filled with water (0.5 l of ash per 10 l of water) and infused for several days.
  • When foliar top dressing with ash infusion, the leaves are irrigated, which is useful for twisting and yellowing of the leaf tips.

garlic - watering

Too much moisture can cause teeth to rot. Bulbs begin to moisten in early May with an interval of 7-10 days.

Each phase of plant growth requires its own watering:

  • active growth - plentiful;
  • bulb ripening is moderate. Especially monitor the humidity of plants during heavy rains, so that there is no dampening of the bulbs.
  • a month before harvesting - watering is stopped.

garlic - manure

It is advisable not to add fresh mullein and unripe humus for garlic, because the bulbs can become loose and crumbly. But mowed crops, called green "manure", are laid in the soil in the fall. It can be peas, oats, buckwheat, sorghum, clover and other crops that are mowed before the seeds ripen and dried.

Why do the tips of the leaves turn yellow in garlic, causes and how to eliminate

Yellowing leaves are a sign that the garlic is ripe, but premature burnout indicates problems with the plant itself.

Garlic winter, spring - differences

Spring and winter garlic are largely similar to each other, but have a number of minor differences. Here is a photo and diagram of both types.
Spring garlic: the number of cloves can reach 30 pieces, arranged in a spiral, in 2-3 rows.


Oz and washed garlic: the number of teeth is smaller, larger, placed in one row in a circle.


The spring species is planted only with cloves, and the winter species propagates with cloves and air bubbles. As in the first, and in the second grade there are non-shooting plants, but the "stump" is typical only for the winter species. Moreover, if the aerial part is not torn off, you can lose 30% of the crop. Aerial nodules propagate a winter plant and get better genetic material. The growing season in both species is approximately the same, 90-110 days. The yield and average weight of a bulb of a winter variety can be 3 times higher than that of a spring variety.

Winter and spring garlic, storage

Heads of spring varieties are better preserved, but they are inferior to winter varieties in size and yield. If the first type lies before the new harvest, then the winter one is usually stored until January, and in the chambers until March.

Video how to distinguish spring garlic from winter

Differences between species are minimal, but a hard arrow can immediately recognize the winter variety.

Spring garlic - large varieties

The yield of garlic directly depends on the right variety. The spring species is characterized by a large number of teeth and good keeping quality.
The medium-late variety Gulliver stands out for its size, which has 3-5 teeth, with a total weight of up to 120 g.


The whitish fruitful type of Elenovsky has pinkish teeth and is distinguished by a stable yield.


Bulbs of a flat-round shape of the Victorio variety reach up to 40 g.


The Ershovsky species has up to 25 teeth, and the weight of the bulbs reaches 35 g.

Spring garlic cultivation technology

The spring species does not like heat, and its productivity drops if the teeth are lowered into the ground late.

spring garlic planting time

They begin planting a spring variety with melting snow and the first warmth, but no later than the third decade of April. Acceptable planting temperature +5 C. If the soil is moist, watering is not required. Previously, the teeth are sprayed with water, and kept in the cold in an open plastic bag for 2-3 weeks. Such preparation gives the best germination and plant resistance to spring winds.
Too early planting, due to the poor development of the bulbs, leads to rotting. Cold temperature (+4 ° + 10 °С) is favorable for root growth. In hot weather, their growth stops and the formation of bulbs begins.

spring garlic planting method

During spring planting, the teeth are laid to a depth of 4-6 cm so that the planting material is in a humid environment. The distance between large teeth should be 6-8 cm, medium heads are planted 4-6 cm apart. There are 50-55 teeth per 1 m2 of area.

Planting too shallow pushes the bulbs to the surface.

It is important in this lesson to choose the right side - the pointed end up. An incorrectly planted clove will not grow.

how to feed garlic to grow large

Before planting, the soil must be cultivated. Clay areas with addition organic matter can be made suitable for growing garlic. Liming is carried out if the pH is less than 5.8.

  • Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil in autumn. Yellowing of the leaves, poor growth and low yield indicates a deficiency of the element.
  • Phosphorus deficiency is characterized by dark green leaf color and slow growth. A symptom of potassium deficiency can be lethargy and marginal "burn" of the leaves.
  • Calcium deficiency is compensated by the introduction of lime flour. The yield of sulfur is not increased, but the taste of the bulbs is improved.

big garlic secrets

The yield of spring garlic is affected by:

  • The mode of storage of uterine bulbs. For this, a combination of two modes is suitable (1st half of the year +18 C + 20 C, 2nd half of the year +3 C +6 C) or a stable basement temperature of +2 C.
  • Site preparation is carried out 2 weeks before planting: dug up and fertilized.
  • For beds, choose plots with pumpkin, legume and cabbage predecessors.
  • Teeth for disembarkation are selected weighing at least 4 g and pre-soaked.
  • Until the first shoots, the site is not watered.
  • Watering cycle 7-8 days.
  • Harvest at 80% drying of the stems.

Large garlic Rocambole, winter or spring

This variety can be grown as a winter and spring species, but in the first case, garlic is larger and of better quality. With a thick snow cover, it winters well, and in snowless winters it can freeze. The main difference between Rocambole and the usual domestic varieties is frequent and abundant watering, as well as the presence of children.

Spring garlic harvest time

Spring garlic is dug up later than the winter relative, because it needs additional time to grow. Rainy summers can make adjustments, when harvesting times are reduced, or heat and drought, when they are extended. The approximate spring harvest is harvested at the end of August, when the lower leaves dry up and the tops turn yellow.

Spring garlic storage

Store the crop in a dark room, at a stable temperature and sufficient air circulation. Any cool, well-ventilated area will work well for garlic. In very cold areas, the bulbs are insulated. The crop is pre-placed in nets and lowered into the basement. For planting, the largest and most even bulbs are retained.

Whole heads are not stored in the refrigerator, but individual cloves in a closed glass container can be left for a while.

Winter garlic how to grow large

Garlic for planting is purchased at a garden center, not a supermarket. The plant loves crop rotation and does not adapt well to other climatic zones. The main condition for a good harvest is the regular rejuvenation of the bulbs. Before planting, they are dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (1 tsp: 2 l). Do not leave arrows on the garlic - this delays ripening and reduces the teeth.

Secrets of growing large winter garlic

It is important to guess with the time of planting winter garlic. It is advisable to throw it into the ground 2 weeks before the first frost. This will give the plant extra time to root.

Basic rules for growing a winter species:

  • Choose a variety adapted to a particular region. Not all types of plants grow equally everywhere.
  • Prepare the soil for planting, determining its acidity, moisture and nutritional value.
  • For planting, choose the largest cloves and let them germinate.
  • They stop at a site that is in the shade during the hottest part of the day. Light-colored mulch (straw) reflects light, insulating the soil from heat and retaining moisture.
  • Timely watering increases the size of the heads.
  • Weed control is essential for garlic growth, as they also need water and nutrients.
  • Mandatory destruction of arrows.
  • Timely harvest.


Winter garlic how to plant

Garlic is usually planted 4-6 weeks before the first frost, the exact time depends on the region: the middle lane is October, the warmer climate is November. The main task of the gardener is to ensure that the plant has a well-developed root system in winter. Autumn green shoots indicate the timely planting of garlic.

Winter garlic - large varieties

The best varieties of winter garlic are:
The high-yielding species of Alcor has 4-5 dense cloves.


The heads of the early ripe Belarusian variety are twice as large as Alkor. It can be recognized by the scales of a purple hue.


Dry-resistant Lyubasha has heads up to 120 g.


Frost-resistant Spas bulbs with ten teeth weigh up to 100 g.

Winter garlic agricultural technology planting

To grow large heads of garlic, the soil is loosened with a rake before planting. A well-seasoned mixture of compost or manure is introduced into the soil. Several shallow furrows are prepared at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Holding each clove with the pointed end up, insert it into the soil 5 cm deep. After that, smooth the surface with fingers or a rake. When planting several varieties, the plots must be marked. Within a month, the soil is allowed to settle, and then mulch is applied.

Winter garlic in winter, how to cover winter garlic for the winter

Due to the shallow root system, garlic stops growing under dry conditions. Mulching the area will prevent the growth of weeds, retain moisture and protect the roots from freezing. The protective layer may consist of straw, chopped leaves or grass clippings. In cold regions, the mulch should be up to 10 cm thick.

Winter garlic top dressing after winter

The main growth of plants begins in the spring. You can take ready-made complex dressings and apply them after rain or dilute mullein in water (1: 7) and water the soil under the plant. A good bait for garlic is spraying ash or spraying with ammonia.

Garlic watering method

Garlic is picky about moisture, but its excess can lead to bulb rot.

Do not irrigate the plant when falling and dry tops.

Spring is the time for active growth. In accordance with the amount of rainfall, plants require additional moisture during this period. April and May are the critical period when garlic is prone to disease. The type of soil dictates the frequency of watering. Light sandy soils quickly erode, so they need more frequent watering, but clay areas warm up slightly and the moisture in them lasts longer. The optimal moisture rate is 2.5 cm per week of water with good drainage.

Winter garlic harvesting

The crop is harvested in late spring or early summer, when the plant has five or six green leaves, and the bottom one or two have already dried up. Pitchforks are harvested for work, but if the soil allows, the garlic is simply pulled out. Shake off excess soil and stack the crop in a pile.

Winter garlic storage

A week later, after drying the crop, cut off the tops. Leave the garlic for another 2-3 weeks in a dry, ventilated area, and then send it to mesh bags or storage baskets. Sometimes bunches are formed from several plants and hung away from sources of heat and light.

Given the above secrets and cultivation rules, you can grow a good harvest of garlic.

Many Russian summer residents have experience in planting garlic, but not every one of them can boast of results. Despite many efforts, it is often impossible to grow large tasty heads with numerous cloves. To avoid disappointment and save energy, it is enough to find out what features of agricultural technology exist and how to properly grow garlic crops.

The time of planting seeds depends on the type of plant and the climatic features of the growing region. There are two varieties of garlic - spring and winter. It is the belonging to the variety that determines the time of planting and the taste characteristics of the crop.

The winter species is sharp and non-shooting. These varieties are planted in the fall. Compared to spring species, they yield earlier, but are not subject to long-term storage. Spring garlic is only arrowed. These varieties are planted in the spring. The main advantage of spring species is a long shelf life and versatility of use.

Some people practice growing garlic varieties at home for a valuable source of vitamins and minerals. To obtain the proper result, it is important to choose a capacity of at least 20 cm, use fertile soil and follow the basic rules of agricultural technology for growing a plant.

How to grow spring garlic

The technology for growing spring garlic involves planting in the middle Russian regions from mid-April. An important factor is the selection of high-quality varietal material. The choice of the right place for landing and adherence to the scheme has a great influence.

Choosing a place for spring garlic

For growing garlic in the country, a fertile piece of land is chosen. It is recommended to choose a sunny site, without the threat of stagnant water and without nearby ground water. High humidity will lead to stunted growth and fungal diseases. The formation of a high bed will help to get rid of the hassle.

To increase the friability and breathability of the soil for better growth of garlic, the introduction of sand or peat into the soil will help. You can plant a plant not only on traditional beds, but also use it as a decorating element on the site, landscape design, decor is one of the unusual uses of the plant.

Scheme of planting spring garlic

You can get high yields only by providing the plant with fertile soil and proper cultivation techniques. Garlic is planted at a distance between rows of 20 to 25 cm, between each clove is left from 6 to 8 cm. The maximum depth of planting material should not exceed 3 cm, otherwise there will be problems with plant germination and head maturation.

Some gardeners, in addition to standard scheme landing, use the following technologies:

  • in two tiers - the first cloves are deepened by 10 cm, the second row is planted as usual to a depth of 6 cm, the distance between them is from 10 to 15 cm, between the rows from 20 to 25 cm, the result is a double crop;
  • sowing - the cloves are laid out in a chaotic manner or simply scattered around the garden.

The first method is more often used when the garden plot is limited, the second, if you want to save time.

How to grow winter garlic

The soil for garlic should be of good looseness and fertility. During the season, the soil is enriched 3 times. In order for the variety to grow and bring a good harvest, the place should not be flooded, as waterlogging negatively affects the growth of the plant.

Before planting, the soil is carefully loosened and shed to a depth of at least 30 cm.

Planted cloves 35 days before a cold snap. In the time before frost, the seeds should form a root system, but the green mass should not appear above ground level. Garlic planted ahead of time will germinate, and being late in planting dates threatens the plant with freezing.

The cloves are planted in compliance with the distance between the beds of 20 or 25 cm. The depth of seeding should be from 4 to 5 cm, between them leave from 6 to 8 cm. After planting, after 2 weeks, 2 cm of peat is formed on the beds, which will allow the plant to winter better .

Preparing beds for winter garlic

Before planting, the soil is carefully loosened and shed to a depth of at least 30 cm. It is important to consider what kind of soil garlic loves. The soil should not be acidic; if there is a similar problem, chalk or ash is added to the garden. It is important to follow the rules of cultivation, that is, do not plant a plant for several years in the same place and take into account garden crops that are favorable for the neighborhood. It is not recommended to grow a plant in one place for more than 3 years. The best predecessors are pumpkin, cabbage, legumes.

The preparation of the beds must begin in August. In 1 m 2 of soil, humus or compost must be added, 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, 1 glass of dolomite flour. Peat is recommended for clay soils. The bed is dug up to a depth of 20 cm and treated with a solution prepared from copper sulfate with a calculation of 40 g per 10 liters. The tool is prepared on the basis that 1 liter is required per 10 m 2 of area.

Winter Garlic Care

The first shoots appear in early spring, they need to be loosened. Watering is carried out as needed and stopped 20 days before the planned harvest. The rules of cultivation and care set the watering rate in the form of 10-12 liters every 10 days per 1 m 2. With sufficient natural rainfall, watering the plant is not required. Care consists in timely weeding, fertilizing and, if necessary, loosening. Summer residents when growing garlic resort to the method of mulching the soil, which can significantly save time on watering the plant.

Diseases of culture

Untimely planting of teeth and non-compliance with agricultural cultivation practices are often the causes of plant disease and poor growth. The most common is rust, which is when spots appear on the garlic. The danger of a fungal disease lies in the rapid pace of spread. The reason for its appearance is waterlogging of the soil and high temperatures.

Common illnesses include:

  • bacteriosis - depressions and sores of a yellowish tint appear on the teeth;
  • green mold - during storage, the cloves become soft and covered with bloom;
  • fusarium - the leaves turn yellow, the process begins from the top with a gradual death of the root system;
  • yellow mold - the aerial part of the plant turns yellow, the leaf plates become crumpled or corrugated;
  • mosaic - small blotches or wide stripes of a light color appear on the leaves, the leaves can begin to creep along the ground and the growth of the plant is greatly slowed down.

Fungal diseases often occur due to waterlogging and non-compliance with the planting pattern. Shading is not suitable for the plant, only garlic likes shade for growing green mass as a seasoning.

Planting material preparation

Before planting, only high-quality heads are selected. If there is a defect even in one clove, it is rejected. The cloves are carefully separated and planted, pre-sorted by size. Planting seeds of the same type in size will ensure uniform germination and ripening.

Winter and spring garlic is prepared immediately before planting, carefully separating the cloves.

For planting, if possible, it is recommended to choose the largest cloves, which will allow you to get a large harvest. You should not take heads with 2-3 cloves or fused together as planting material, as this indicates the degeneration of garlic. When using such seeds, it is impossible to obtain the desired crop volume, and the grown vegetables will be of poor quality.

A month before the proposed planting, it is recommended to place the garlic in the refrigerator, the temperature should be at least -3 C and not more than +2 C. The day before, it is taken out and the disinfection procedure is carried out. For this you can use various ways. The most popular is soaking in one of the following solutions:

  • ash, prepared from 2 liters of water and 300 g of wood material;
  • 1% potassium permanganate;
  • "Fitosporin";
  • 1% copper sulfate.

The teeth are immersed in the solution for 30 minutes. After that, it is recommended to place them in growth stimulants, most often used "Epin" or potassium humate. Organic and mineral fertilizers are first applied to the soil under garlic. During the season, top dressing is repeated at least 3 times.

Growing garlic seeds

Growing garlic indoors requires a significant amount of seeds, so garlic is often grown from seeds instead of cloves. In June, arrows with inflorescences begin to form in winter varieties, which are called “bulbs”, and it is from them that seed material is collected. In cold regions, a greenhouse can be used for planting.

For collection, it is necessary to choose healthy plants, at the time of bursting the inflorescence, the culture is removed from the garden and dried. To do this, the plant can be completely pulled out or cut off. Before direct sowing, the bulbs are cleaned, completely removing the inflorescence.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Growing garlic from air bulbs-bulbs allows you to significantly save planting material in the form of full-fledged heads. This method is not typical for spring varieties, but is used for winter species. In the period from September to the first week of October, the largest bulbs are sown. By July, each of them will grow into a full-fledged single-tooth, which is later used as planting material before winter to obtain full-fledged heads in the future.

For planting, a bed is preliminarily prepared, 3 kg of humus and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate. The optimal width is 90 cm, with a larger size, care will be more difficult in the future. For sowing, grooves from 2 to 3 cm are formed, the seeds are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other. From above, the grooves are sprinkled with loose earth.

In cold regions, the beds are mulched on top or sprinkled with sawdust, which are removed when the first heat comes and the soil thaws. Plant care is standard and consists in timely watering, loosening and weed removal. Some grow garlic in a greenhouse using a conventional planting pattern.

The first top dressing is done in July, at which point the plant should form 4 true leaves. To do this, use a solution of 2 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, diluted in 10 liters of water. If desired, you can use special organic fertilizers - Agricola, Fertility. For 1 m 2 there are from 2 to 3 liters of solution.

The second feeding is carried out after the first in 14 days. To do this, use the same solutions, but increase the consumption. For 1 m 2 use 3-4 liters of solution. The third procedure is done in June. To do this, take 2 tbsp. l. crushed superphosphate per 10 liters of water, using a solution in a volume of 5 liters for every 1 m 2.

Caring for garlic in August comes down to standard watering, weeding and loosening plantings. To obtain large heads of the winter variety in the underground part, it is necessary to break off the arrows before the onset of August.

  • choose a sunny, dry place for planting, with a strong acidity of the soil, lower the level with chalk or ash;
  • use only high-quality material for cultivation, having previously disinfected it;
  • observe the timing and scheme of planting;
  • timely loosen, feed and not overmoisten the soil;
  • monitor the health of the plant, at the first sign of the disease, immediately begin the fight;
  • follow the cultivation rules and do not plant garlic for more than 3 years in one place, choose the right predecessors.

Garlic harvesting is carried out from late August to mid-September. A signal of the possibility of harvesting is the mass lodging of leaves and their rapid yellowing. After digging, the heads must be thoroughly dried for a week and pruned, leaving the stem at a distance of 6 to 8 cm.

Garlic is a popular culture among gardeners, which today can be found in almost every personal plot. Due to its unpretentiousness in care, this vegetable can be easily grown even by novice gardeners. Gardeners only need to know how to grow garlic, what kind of care the plantings will need, how to properly plant the seeds in order to get the maximum possible yield.

Proper cultivation of vegetables

Growing this plant is not difficult, so every gardener can get a good harvest of garlic. It is only necessary to decide when to plant garlic, which can be done in spring or autumn. In cold regions, winter planting is most popular, when garlic is planted in the fall, which allows you to get an excellent harvest next year. In the south, where it gets warmer already in March, and the first frosts are observed only in December, the spring technology of growing this vegetable is very popular, when the seedlings are planted in early spring and harvested in September-October.

How to grow garlic? This culture is bred on almost every suburban area. Such a plant can even be propagated indoors on a balcony or on a windowsill in a pot. This is due to the fact that the fragrant spice is undemanding in care and grows rapidly.

Below you can get acquainted with the varieties and varieties of the plant, as well as tips on how to germinate and care for winter and spring garlic in various conditions.

Species and varieties

To date, a large number of different varieties of garlic have been bred. But they are all divided into two types, namely:

  • winter (planted in open ground with the arrival of autumn);
  • spring (suitable for growing in spring).

Garlic is also divided into two large groups - arrowing and non-shooting varieties. In the first group, instead of seeds, single-toothed bulbous bulbs develop, which are used for planting crops in the ground. Often arrows let only winter types of garlic, and in spring this feature is extremely rare.

Large, large garlic can be grown from winter varieties. However, such a culture will be stored very little. Already in almost the last month of winter, the vegetable will begin to deteriorate.

As for summer garlic, the bulb heads don't grow as gigantic, but the shelf life can be up to 2 years.

In order to grow a good harvest of garlic without problems and hassle, experienced gardeners advise planting two types of vegetables in the garden at once. Despite the fact that the spring crop is in second place in terms of yield and head size, it is still stored longer than the winter crop. In terms of taste, both types of garlic are exactly the same.

Winter varieties of garlic are grown on a large industrial scale for sale. A spring vegetable is cultivated for long-term consumption.

Can be grown in the countryside different varieties vegetable culture. For example, most farmers grow Indian and Chinese garlic (the "solo" variety), and also grow the "rocambole" variety (such garlic is called "elephant" or giant).

If you want to grow garlic with a head the size of a fist, it is advisable to use large-fruited crop varieties. For such purposes, it is best to take "rocambole". It is worth noting that only when planting seeds for the winter, the size of the heads will be large. If you plant a vegetable as a spring crop, the bulbs will be small.

Many are interested in the question: “Is it profitable to grow garlic for sale?” Such a business, of course, does not require large expenses, however, it usually does not bring high profits either. The main thing is to regularly care for the spice, as well as plant high-quality seeds, which in the future will give a good harvest. In addition, farmers and enterprises engaged in the cultivation of vegetables in open field, argue that such a business may be accompanied by risk and organizational difficulties. This is due to the fact that high-quality seed is not cheap, cultivation also depends on climatic conditions. In this regard, farmers often grow garlic in a greenhouse.

How to grow winter garlic?

Winter garlic is characterized by a fairly high yield and large dimensions of the bulbs. However, this type of plant has a short shelf life.

This vegetable crop is great for salting with other vegetables, as well as for preservation.

Landing time

It is necessary to plant winter garlic in the fall, when the weather will be cold outside, but the soil should not yet freeze. Landing is carried out approximately from October to November.

Soil preparation

One of the secrets of how to grow large winter garlic in the open field is the proper preparation of the land for planting a crop. A few weeks before planting the spice in open ground, the substrate must be mixed with sand and ash. You need to grow garlic from seeds in well-drained soil, since the vegetable crop does not like stagnant moisture, and also prefers soil with organic matter. In this case, the beds should be high.

Either compost or rotted manure must be added to the ground. To do this, a five-centimeter layer of fertilizer is distributed over the entire surface of the area, and then dug up.

Garlic prefers to grow in soil, the acidity of which will not exceed 6 or 7 units. If the soil is fed with compost or rotted manure immediately before winter sowing, the soil will not need to be fertilized until the spring months.

According to the rules of crop rotation, it is undesirable to plant a crop in the same area more than once every 5 years. However, often a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden does not make it possible to adhere to this rule. In this regard, the plant can be planted in the same area if an interval of 3 years is maintained, and the correct predecessor crops are selected.

You do not need to grow garlic where onions, potatoes or carrots grew, because after their cultivation, the soil loses a significant part of its nutrients. Also, do not plant a crop after nightshade, which can infect the plant with Fusarium. It is best to grow garlic after melon, legumes or cucumbers.

To properly grow garlic in the garden, consider the following:

  1. At the place where the vegetable is bred, the sun should shine for at least 5 hours a day.
  2. The acidity level of the soil should be either medium or weak.
  3. It is not recommended to fertilize the land with fresh manure.
  4. Seedlings must be distributed at a distance of fifteen centimeters from each other and immersed to a depth of seven centimeters.

Properly prepared soil will be the key to a large, plentiful harvest.

Planting material preparation

To grow a good and healthy winter garlic, seedlings must be processed before planting in the ground. In this way, the culture can be protected from bacterial, fungal and viral infections.

For the treatment of seeds (cloves), you can apply various chemical compositions, for example "Maxim" or "Fitolavin".

According to grandmother's advice, in order to obtain a quality harvest, the cloves must be dipped in a weak manganese solution for about 12 hours.

Immediately before planting, the seedlings can be immersed in a saline solution for 3 minutes (3 tablespoons of salt will be needed for 5 liters of water).

You can also treat garlic heads with a solution of copper sulfate (0.1 g of copper sulfate per 1 liter of water).

Reproduction methods

You can grow winter garlic by several proven methods. The following methods of culture propagation are considered the most effective: from bulbous cloves, bulbs and single-toothed bulbs. Which method is best, everyone chooses individually, based on personal tastes and preferences.

From bulb cloves

To grow garlic from onion cloves, on the day appointed for planting, it is necessary to make beds up to 2 meters wide. Seedlings need to be planted to a depth of 7 cm, while maintaining a distance of 20 cm from each other. The landing site must be sprinkled with a centimeter layer of humus.

For planting, you need to take cloves that weigh at least 4 grams. Garlic grown from cloves should have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, it is advisable to sow the crop from early October to mid-November.

Garlic should be sown not with a whole head, but with single cloves. Therefore, before planting, the bulb must be divided into slices.

From bulbs

To harvest a high-quality garlic crop, you need to sometimes change the planting material. For this purpose, the seeds of small air bulbs of garlic are used, which develop from the arrow peduncle. As soon as the twisted garlic arrow becomes even, it will be possible to remove the seeds of the air onions.

Growing garlic from arrows is done for the winter in the year of collecting seeds (bulbs), which must first be sorted and then dried for a month.

The planting time, as well as the procedure for preparing the land, are the same as when growing a winter vegetable with cloves. Before sowing in the soil, the bulbs must be immersed in a solution of wood ash (1-2 tablespoons of the substance per 100 ml of water) for twelve hours.

Planting seeds is carried out to a depth of up to 4 centimeters, while maintaining a distance between planting material of 6 centimeters.

After planting, the soil must be covered with a two-centimeter mulch layer. With the advent of spring, crops need to be looked after in the same way as during the planting of onion cloves.

Initially, only a single-tooth bulb (also called a set) grows from the bulbs, which can serve as planting material for a new crop of garlic.

It is very important to harvest on time, because ripe single-toothed bulbs can self-burrow. The time of harvest is determined by the state of the crop, namely: the leaves begin to turn yellow and slop down.

After 2 years, the bulbs will reach the standard size of a garlic head.

From single-tooth bulbs

To grow large single-toothed garlic, sevok needs to be planted in the soil in the spring, in mid-April. If you need to bring out ordinary garlic heads, then planting is carried out with the advent of the autumn months.

Before sowing planting material, you should pick up the brightest, even and largest heads. Seedlings should be sown in rows at a distance of twelve centimeters from each other. The distance between rows should reach 20 centimeters.

The planting time and the procedure for preparing the soil and material for sowing are the same as for propagating garlic with bulbs and cloves.

Winter care

After the seedlings are in the soil, they will need to be covered with a thick layer of leaves or straw. This will protect the heads of garlic from sudden changes in temperature during severe frosts until the thaw. As a result, the bulbs will not freeze.

Caring for a grown plant is quite simple. The main thing is to do all the procedures on time.

With the advent of spring, the mulch layer can be removed so that the earth can warm up with the sun's rays, thereby accelerating the growth of seedlings.

When the soil warms up and the first garlic shoots grow, a small layer of mulch should be returned to its original place to retain moisture and prevent the development of weeds.

If the ground is not too dry, there is no need to pour garlic abundantly. The less liquid will be used when watering, the richer the smell of the vegetable will be.

In the summer, winter and spring garlic give arrows that need to be disposed of, otherwise they will not allow the crop to grow normally.

Cultivation of spring garlic

Spring garlic differs from winter garlic in the number of cloves and the size of the bulb. Such a vegetable is quite small and is not often used in cooking. However, spring crops are characterized by a long shelf life. This makes it possible to use the vegetable during the entire cold period of time.

Planting dates and co-propagation

It is best to grow spring garlic at the end of frost, that is, from mid-April.

In addition to meeting the deadlines for planting seedlings, you also need to choose the right neighbors in the garden, whom garlic will protect from infectious diseases and pests.

Clue! Lettuce leaves and spicy plants grow well next to vegetable crops. Remarkably, they can be planted on the same bed, alternating rows.

If you grow spring garlic near strawberry and strawberry bushes, the vegetable will scare away ants and aphids from berries, and will also contribute to high yields.

In no case should you grow summer (spring) garlic along with beans, cabbage and peas. The spicy plant slows down their development, resulting in low yields.

If garlic is grown in Siberia, then the material for sowing a month before planting in the ground should be placed in the refrigerator. And the day before planting, the seedlings will need to be removed from the cold, leaving at room temperature.

plant care

After planting, spring garlic does not need special care. It will be enough to moisten, loosen, feed and weed the soil from weeds in time to get a good and rich harvest.

To reduce the amount of watering, as well as protect the land from drying out on hot days, the beds with the plant must be mulched.

From May to July, the green mass begins to actively grow, so the plant needs to be watered four times a month. If there were heavy rains and the soil is too wet, then it is better not to water, so that there is no excess moisture in the soil. From the second half of summer, the number of waterings should be reduced.

During the growing season, the spring crop should be fed twice, namely:

  1. For the first time, fertilizers are applied to the ground when the first green shoots are formed. For these purposes, a solution of wood ash is used (a couple of glasses of ash will be required for 12 liters of water). Nitrogen fertilizers can also be used.
  2. The second time the plant is fed when the bulbs are formed. Here you can take either humus or some mineral fertilizers.

At proper care spring garlic will bring many healthy and strong fruits.

Harvest and storage

Winter varieties of garlic begin to ripen by early August. As soon as the leaves turn yellow, you can start picking fruits. Cleaning should not be delayed, as the bulbs can dry out and begin to crumble. In this case, the shelf life of the product can be drastically reduced.

Spring garlic can be harvested from the end of summer, when the leaves turn yellow and droop down, and the bulbs are fully formed.

After the crop is harvested, it must first be shaken off the ground, and then dried for 1.5 weeks.

After drying, the roots and a little stem are cut off from the plant, leaving a 5 cm long stem for winter garlic, and 2 centimeters for spring garlic.

For planting material, it is advisable to take only large specimens.

Garlic storage conditions:

  • temperature regime for winter plants - +4 degrees, and for spring - +20 degrees;
  • humidity for all types of culture should be medium.

Many are interested in the question: “How much garlic can be grown on a hundred square meters?” The amount of crop harvested from 1 acre of land will be different. It all depends on which variety is cultivated in the field. For example, the “saved” garlic variety can bring up to 200 kg, and the “benefit” variety gives 400 kg per hundred square meters.

Growing at home

Garlic can be grown at home (on the balcony or on the windowsill). In winter, it is preferable to breed winter varieties of plants that can bring a good harvest of greenery. If you want to grow garlic arrows, then it is better to plant a spring variety of a plant in the summer.

For growing in an apartment on a window or balcony, it is best to use garlic cloves, which can quickly bear fruit. To do this, take only strong, large and dense slices.

From sprouted garlic cloves, fruits can be grown much faster.

Suitable for growing garlic on greens winter variety plants, because it is able to give a powerful green mass. Remarkably, greens can be grown even from store-bought sprouted vegetables. In this case, the crop can be harvested in a short period of time. Of course, you can take unsprouted garlic, but then the green mass will have to wait a long time.

As for the soil, the soil from the street must first be disinfected, and then calcined in the oven. After that, sand and peat must be added to the ground.

If the soil is purchased in a store, then you need to take a universal substrate for seedlings, which must be fertilized.

The capacity for plant propagation should be spacious and up to 20 centimeters deep. Also, there should be a small rim at the top so that water does not spill over the edges when watering.

At home, garlic can be grown in a ceramic pot, a plastic box, or a glass container. In this case, the container must be placed either in a pallet or on a stand so that the liquid can drain freely.

Garlic cloves are introduced into pre-prepared pits to a depth of 3 centimeters. The distance between crops should be 5 centimeters. The soil should be slightly moist. As soon as the seeds are introduced into the soil, they need to be sprinkled with earth and watered. After that, it remains only to wait until the first shoots appear. The ripening period is approximately 21 days.

Seedlings need to be watered every three days. However, if the soil dries quickly, then the interval between waterings can be reduced.

You can feed the crop with both nitrogen and mineral fertilizers.

The optimum temperature for growing a plant at home is +20 degrees. Therefore, it is best to grow garlic on a glazed balcony.

Periodically, the ground near the seedlings needs to be loosened. As a result, the heads will be large and developed.

As you can see, growing garlic outdoors or at home is not so difficult. The main thing is to choose the right plant variety and planting time for planting material, and then it will be possible to get a high-quality and high yield.

Below is a video showing how to grow winter garlic.

Garlic is an indispensable seasoning on any table and an excellent medicine. It owes its appearance to the foothill regions of Central Asia, and the first mention of it occurs 5 thousand years ago. It was found in the burials of the Egyptian pharaohs and the diet of the Roman legionnaires, it is found on the pages of the Bible and the Koran.

Since then, this plant from the bulbous family has been grown everywhere, including on household plots open air. Garlic - unpretentious plant but to get a good harvest will have to work hard.

Species of garlic

Garlic belongs to herbaceous plants from the bulbous family. It has a round bulb with a fibrous rhizome. The leaves are narrow, lanceolate, 30 to 90 centimeters long, growing from each other, forming a false stem. The peduncle grows separately and reaches a height of 1.5 meters, ending in an umbrella inflorescence, on which seed pods appear after flowering.

The leaves and the bulbs themselves are suitable for food, which form from 2 to 50 cloves covered with scales. This part of garlic contains a large amount of vitamins and antioxidants and is considered the healthiest and most delicious. Garlic is spring and winter for planting under the snow in autumn. Growing garlic is easy and requires no special tools.

Varieties of garlic

Spring garlic

This species is planted in open ground in early spring, and harvested in early autumn. Heads of spring garlic are medium-sized, but are perfectly stored until the next fresh harvest without losing their properties. In addition, the plants do not form arrows, and the bulbs themselves consist of small internal cloves and larger external ones. For seed material, large slices are selected.

Popular varieties: Elenovsky, Gulliver, Victorio, Moscow.

Winter varieties

The difference with summer varieties lies in the planting technology and the size of the bulbs - in winter garlic they are noticeably larger. It is used in everyday nutrition and culinary production, it is stored poorly. Arrow varieties ripen earlier and produce crops in early summer, but require additional care.

Popular names in Russia are Zubrenok, Alkor, Lyubasha, Lekar, Herman and others.

Soil preparation

It is important to know that any garlic is sensitive to soil acidity. This plant prefers normal or alkaline soils, so apply fresh organic fertilizers before landing is not recommended.

The landing site should be in a dry and well-lit area. In the shade, the plant will go into the arrow, and the bulbs will remain underdeveloped. Optimal soil it will be loamy with a large amount of organic matter (peat, humus, compost), which has good moisture capacity.

For garlic, the following crop rotation rules are observed:

  • Grows well after zucchini, potatoes, cabbage;
  • Suitable for neighborhood with raspberry bushes, currants, gooseberries, strawberries;
  • It is not recommended to plant after onions, carrots, cucumbers and tomatoes;
  • The maximum period for planting garlic in one place is 2 years in a row, the next planting in this place is not earlier than in 4 years.

Land preparation begins in the fall, when the bed is cleared of weeds and fertilized with compost, leaves, and overripe manure. To reduce acidity, lime, chalk solution or dolomite flour are added.

In the spring, everything is dug up and minerals are added in the form of superphosphate - 30 g / m 2 and potassium salt or urea 20 g / m 2 each.

When the soil is depleted, ordinary furnace ash, which is applied dry or with a solution, helps well.

Seed preparation

Ready-made teeth for planting can be bought at the store, but it is better to do it yourself. To do this, the best bulbs from last year's harvest are selected for each type separately. The main selection criteria are the large size of the slices, their cleanliness and the absence of mold on the surface. Even one infected clove in the bulb can cause infection to all the others. Until planting, the heads are not divided into slices, but stored in a dark and dry place.

Cleaned teeth are soaked before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or late blight, to prevent the development of fungal diseases.

You should always clean each clove from the upper shell, which can accumulate rot and microorganisms. After that, it is immediately placed in the ground to prevent the bottom with the spine from drying out.

Another popular way to get seeds is from arrows with inflorescences. Take away best plants and leave arrows on them until fully ripe. The onion (air bulb) is considered ready, which has acquired a characteristic color and is freed from the protective film. Large and healthy bulbs are plucked for seeds. This scheme is designed for a two-year cultivation. In the first year they get one clove, and in the second a full-fledged bulb.

The advantages of this method:

  • Planting material does not have contact with the soil and is therefore practically sterile;
  • A large number of high-quality cloves from the heads of garlic are not consumed.

A feature of any variety of garlic is the need for long-term stratification - finding planting material in cold conditions. Therefore, winter garlic is planted just before the onset of cold weather, and spring garlic in cold soil immediately after the snow cover has melted. This planting technology favors the development of a healthy plant and a bountiful harvest.

Planting winter varieties of garlic

AT middle lane In Russia, the best time to place seeds in the ground is considered to be the end of September - early October. If planted earlier, the cloves will germinate and give rise to shoots that freeze and do not sprout in the spring. If planted late, they will not have time to take root and will slowly rise.

For planting under the snow, the slices are dried, then they are not afraid of any frosts.

The standard distance between rows is 25 cm, between plants - 8 cm. The depth of penetration is at least 10-12 cm so that the germinating roots do not push the seed to the surface before the onset of cold weather. Good results are obtained by landing among others garden plants. This compaction does not affect the yield in any way. Dry soil can be watered once before the onset of cold weather.

The quantity and quality of winter garlic harvest is affected by the amount of snow in winter. For snow retention, a bed with plantings of peat, sawdust, is covered with spruce and fir spruce branches. It is useful to throw snow on the beds with garlic in winter with little snow.

Planting spring varieties of garlic

For spring sowing, it is desirable to have a prepared bed. The top layer of soil thaws before anyone else and is already suitable for planting garlic seeds, without waiting for the soil to thaw to the full depth. Early planting is the key to a future excellent harvest.

There are several options for planting garlic:

  • In rows with an interval between plants of 10 cm and a distance of 20 cm to the next furrow;
  • Square method with a cell size of 15 by 15 cm;
  • Two-layer landing in one hole, when the first clove is deepened by 15 cm, and the second by 8 cm;
  • Two-layer planting in squares - the cloves of the lower layer are located in the center of the squares formed by the upper row of seeds.

Such nesting schemes help to get a crop throughout the season, and the yield exceeds the standard one by 1.5-2 times.

When do you prefer to plant garlic?

springautumn

Caring for garlic after planting

Seedlings of plants need regular care and respect for them. This applies to watering, weeding, fertilizing.

Watering

It's no secret that garlic loves moist soil and abundant watering, especially during the period when sprouts appear. At this time, he needs regular watering in the amount of 10-12 liters per square meter.

As the bulbs grow, the intensity of watering is reduced, and from August until the harvest it is completely stopped. This reduces the risk of rotting and spoilage of ready-made heads of garlic in the ground.

Weeding and fight against shooting

Weeding begins with the appearance of the first sprouts. They remove not only weeds, but also extra garlic shoots that interfere with the full formation of the main bulbs. Simultaneously with weeding, the beds are loosened (it is recommended to loosen the soil after rains).

The breaking of shooters begins with their growth up to 15-20 cm, if it is not planned to obtain bulbs for seeds. Arrows should be broken or cut closer to the bulb. Broken shoot will continue to grow, taking away a lot nutrients at the root system. This operation is carried out regularly.

soil fertilization

The introduction of mineral and organic substances greatly affects the yield of garlic. It is important to follow exactly
dosage and time of fertilization. Preference is given to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium: superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, urea, ammophoska.

These fertilizers are applied 3 times per season - at the beginning of planting, after a month, when a small bulb is formed.

Organic fertilizers are applied with the appearance of the first leaves. The best in composition is the mullein solution. It is rich in nitrogen and harmless to plants and humans. Bird and other droppings are used carefully, making them in a decayed form or weak solutions. A large amount of nitrogen is needed only at the initial stage of growth.

Always combine fertilizing with watering. This contributes to the rapid absorption of nutrients by the plant.

Diseases and pests of garlic

Plants are susceptible to fungal diseases that may be airborne or contained in untreated soil.

These diseases are:

  • bacterial rot;
  • black mold;
  • Peronosporosis;
  • Fusarium.

Treatment of affected plants is carried out by spraying with fungicides or Bordeaux mixture. After harvesting, the stems from these plants are burned, and the garden bed is treated with the same preparations. It is advisable to change the crop grown, for example, sow carrots or potatoes.

From the onion fly and tick helps proven folk remedy. Pour a glass of tobacco dust and ground pepper with several liters hot water, insist 2-3 days, filter and dilute in one bucket of water. Sprayed every 10 days.

Harvesting and storage

They begin to dig up winter garlic in July and finish harvesting in late August - early September with spring varieties. You should focus on the yellowed lower leaves and ripe seed pods. Ripe garlic stops releasing new feathers, and the inflorescences begin to crumble.

Without waiting for the complete withering of the tops, the bulbs carefully dig in and remove the entire plant. Harvesting is carried out in dry weather, and watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before.

The rhizomes are shaken off excess earth and sent to dry in a warm and well-ventilated place. It is allowed to dry garlic under the rays of the sun in daytime, and at night it is removed into the room.

During drying useful material leaves grow into bulbs.

Dried garlic is tied into bunches or braids and hung in a cool, dry place. The optimum temperature for cold storage is 1-3 degrees, and for warm storage it is not higher than 25 degrees.

Properly harvested and dried garlic can be stored for several years without loss of taste and vitamins.