How deep should garlic be planted before winter? Preparing garden tools

In the list of autumn garden work, there is certainly a planting, but it is important to know how deep it should be planted so that it does not freeze. Experienced gardeners do everything accurately, but for beginners, ignorance can cost the harvest.

Shallow or deep?

The depth of planting garlic in the fall should be small. After all, for a plant to have a good wintering, rooting will be enough. It is considered normal to plant slices into the ground by 5-10 cm, and the maximum allowable depth is 15 cm. For planting, shallow grooves are dug, on the bottom of which, at a distance of 15 cm, garlic cloves are laid with roots down.

It is very important not to press them too tightly into the ground, so as not to damage the roots. Or you can make a separate hole for each clove using a stick of the desired length. Both methods have their adherents.

The depth of planting winter garlic will be different for different regions. So, in areas with a harsh climate, the landing should be carried out as early as the beginning or middle of September, but in the south, work can be postponed until November.

Landing time

Not only the correctly chosen depth of planting garlic before winter matters. An important factor is the time when these garden works are carried out. Garlic before the onset of frost should take root well, and then no winter is terrible for him. It should not be forgotten that cloves root best in moist soil, and therefore should be planted after rain or preliminary watering of the site.

You need to plant teeth 3-4 weeks before the expected cold weather. This time will be enough. But if you missed the planting time, then there is a way out of this situation - planting garlic to a depth of 20 cm will help out. And although such a deep planting may affect the amount of the crop, it will not allow the teeth to freeze in the winter.

Some tricks

Not everyone knows that planting garlic two years in a row for one and the same place is unacceptable - the harvest will be poor. But after the onion sow winter garlic- just a great idea.

The soil requirements of garlic are similar to other plants - it likes neutral fertile land, but what it does not like is fresh cow dung, which is too acidic and contains nitrogen. Winter garlic is best planted in light soils with a high sand content, in order to melt water did not stagnate and the harvest did not ripen.

So that the garlic does not get sick, before planting, the cloves are soaked in a medium-intensity manganese solution. After the cloves are planted, the area should be mulched with sawdust or humus.

Kira Stoletova

In cultivation technology great importance also has a depth of planting garlic. The desired result of the yield indicator will depend on how correctly the vegetable was planted. Therefore, this issue remains at the level with the main problems that arise when planting this crop.

How to choose planting depth

The essence of the question at what depth to plant garlic before winter is that you need to choose the optimal deepening.

It should be sufficient so that the culture does not freeze in the winter and germinate in the spring. After all, shallow planting of a vegetable leads to bulging of teeth from the soil because the bunch of roots grows rapidly. Under adverse conditions, the teeth will die.

Also, the depth of planting garlic for planting for the winter should not be too large. To survive the winter period well, it is enough for a vegetable to take root, but not to let green stems. Temperature drops are especially dangerous in November and December, when there is no snow. It is not worth planting seed cloves too deep, this will entail liquefaction of crops, stunting the growth of cloves, thereby reducing the yield.

Preparing garlic

Before preparing the seed, you need to approach it carefully, because the result of the entire growing process will largely depend on this.

The requirements for cloves for sowing are as follows:

  • grown in the same region
  • all of the same sort;
  • healthy, strong and large.

Soil preparation

In order for the soil to settle, the bed must be prepared in advance, somewhere in 2 weeks. It is dug up, with the help of a rake fertilizer is applied - compost or humus. The height of the beds should be 20-25 cm. Make a markup - draw rows at a distance of at least 20 cm. In order to make it easier to mark them, the soil must be moistened. If possible, you need to plant less often, but you can also at a distance of 5-8 cm between the holes.

To accurately make the same recesses for planting a given vegetable, serifs of the desired size are made on the back of the shovel (its handle). We remember: we plant larger cloves deeply, smaller - small in size.

Planting winter garlic

The rules for planting winter garlic are determined by many factors that also affect the depth of planting.

The maximum depth of planting garlic for the winter is recommended to be somewhere around 15 cm. But it can be different depending on the above factors (varies from 3-5 cm to 10-15 cm). There are times when garlic is deepened even up to 20 cm! As a rule, this is done when the vegetable was not planted on time and a cold snap is approaching. But it should be noted that using this method, the risk of crop loss increases.

In order to calculate how deep to plant garlic, you also need to pay attention to the structure of the soil. Where the soil is dense and heavy, planting should not be too deep. And if the winters are cold, then the vegetable should be planted deeper, otherwise the cloves will simply freeze. Therefore, in the same region, this crop is planted in different ways.

Optimal depth

  • for cloves, the groove size becomes 15 cm;
  • for the bulb, the groove is 3-4 cm.

As a rule, garlic cloves are planted in rows, but you can choose other methods (various shapes, semicircles).

Landing dates

Many gardeners are in a hurry to plant garlic in the winter in September. If the "Indian summer" has not yet passed, then they run the risk of warming it up too much. Then the vegetable can sprout, which is not useful for it.

Start planting a vegetable for the winter should be 3-4 weeks before the possible onset of cold weather. Then the culture will have time to take root. It is necessary to strictly observe the timing and accuracy of deepening. Depending on the region, this can be from mid-September to the end of October.

Planting spring garlic

Spring garlic does not give such yield indicators as winter garlic, but it persists for a long time and does not lose its taste. Therefore, many gardeners choose this variety for planting.

Frosts are not a threat to him, since he is planted in the spring. Therefore, the depth of its planting is less than the winter one. And it becomes about 5-7 cm.

Landing dates

Spring garlic is planted in early spring, when the soil temperature is 5-6°C. Culture is not afraid of frost, which can still be in the spring. And in order for a large bulb to form over the summer, seating must be done early.

Do not delay planting a vegetable - this will affect the yield. After all, it begins to form roots at a temperature of 4-10 ° C, which, under conditions of soil moisture, begin to grow along with the leaves. Their growth stops when the temperature rises. Then the bulb begins to form. Its value will depend on how powerful the roots and leaves have grown.

Against the background of a huge number of varieties of garden strawberries, the ampelous variety stands out. This strawberry with uncharacteristic pink, very decorative flowers is easily recognizable by both fruit-bearing mother plants and rosettes extending from them. After reviewing the care of her, having studied the rules of cultivation and looking at the photo, you can safely proceed to planting this unusual berry crop.

Features of ampelous strawberries

If an ordinary strawberry bears fruit once a season, a remontant two, then it can be said about an ampelous strawberry that it is able to bear fruit throughout the year.

Thanks to the work of breeders, ampelous strawberries grow before flower stalks are formed, flower buds are laid on them and, accordingly, an additional crop ripens. Further, the mustache itself continues to form the following. As a result, one bush can be continuously harvested.

In addition, this variety has excellent decorative qualities and can serve as a wonderful decoration for a balcony, veranda, etc.

Advice. For growing in a room, it is better to select varieties of neutral daylight hours that have a very long fruiting period.

In some sources, you can find it under the name "curly", but this is not entirely correct. By nature, strawberries cannot wrap themselves around anything. Some gardeners, for decorative purposes, simply tie a mustache with rosettes to a support. At the same time, it seems that the strawberry itself “climbs” up.

Ampel strawberry continuously yields

If you plant several bushes in a flowerpot or hanging pot, the rosettes will fall very beautifully from the mother plant, creating cascades of leaves, flowers and berries.

When considering the fruiting of ampelous varieties, it can be unequivocally stated that this is a remontant variety. On the bush at the same time you can see buds, flowers and berries. Thanks to this, in appropriate conditions, it is possible to observe flowering and pick berries almost all year round. Popular varieties:

  • Homemade delicacy;
  • Temptation;
  • Tarpan;
  • Elan;
  • Novel;
  • balcony stream;
  • Balcony charm.

Almost all of them are hybrids that are adapted to growing in any conditions, resistant to some diseases and give a decent harvest. I would especially like to note the Tuscany variety. Despite its recent appearance, it has already gained worldwide recognition. It differs in rich pink flowers and rather large fragrant berries.

Growing Options

If you show imagination and make very little effort, then bushes of ampelous strawberries can become a wonderful decoration for the site.

Ampel strawberries can be grown even in an apartment

  • Growing in pots and vases. In this case, any containers can be used for landing. For the normal development of the plant, their depth must be at least 30 cm. A mandatory requirement is holes for water drainage and a drainage layer. Seedlings intended for planting should be sprinkled with earth and kept for two weeks in a dark, cool place. Planting plants in a pot should not be too dense and not very deep.

Advice. A lush strawberry bush grown by hand in a hanging planter can be a wonderful gift for a novice gardener.

  • Grid growing. As a lattice, you can use a metal mesh, wicker fence, etc. Bushes are planted in the soil 30 cm apart. Growing mustaches are tied up along the lattice.

Advice. The height of the lattice should be selected no more than 1 m. So the plants will be able to completely cover it with fruit-bearing and flowering bushes at the same time.

  • Landing in the form of a pyramid. For such a landing, you will need 3-4 boxes 30 cm high, without a bottom, different sizes. The largest is placed on the ground in the garden and covered with fertile soil. A second, smaller one is placed on top and is also filled with earth. The smallest of them is placed on top. Soil is also poured into it. It turns out a cascade of boxes in which seedlings are planted. After growing, this structure looks like a green pyramid, covered with flowers and berries.
  • Vertical beds. This method is used for growing ampelous strawberries in greenhouses. They are made from wide plastic pipes(diameter about 110 cm). Holes are cut into them after a certain interval, into which, after filling the pipe nutrient soil seedlings are planted.

How to plant seedlings

Planting ampelous varieties does not differ much from planting other types of strawberries.

  1. The bottom of the pot or groove in the bed is lined with drainage material.
  2. From above it is covered with nutrient soil, consisting of soddy soil, humus, manure and peat.
  3. Well watered. After the soil settles, the earth is filled up.
  4. Landing holes are being made.
  5. One plant is distributed in each well.
  6. The roots are pressed with wet earth so that the core remains at the top.

Advice. In order for the seedlings to take root faster, it is advisable to dip each rhizome in a clay mash.

How to care

Planted seedlings need frequent moisture. It should be watered 2 times a day a little. After 2 weeks, watering is reduced - it will be enough 1 time in 3 days. The first flower stalks are removed. So the plant will give all its strength to the development of the root system, which will make the plant strong.

Strawberries need regular hydration

Mustaches on each bush should remain no more than 5 pcs. All excess is plucked off. Top dressing is carried out regularly with mineral fertilizers.

Ampelous strawberry transplantation must be carried out every 3-4 years. In the spring, the antennae are plucked from the strongest bushes and transplanted to a new bed or into a new container. In the case of a flower bed, you can completely replace the soil and plants.

For the winter, you can not leave containers with strawberries on the street. All of them need to be brought into a warm room. If this is not possible, the container is dug into the ground and covered with a covering material.

For beds protruding above ground level, special frames are constructed, the surface of which is covered with roofing material, lutrasil, etc., and then sprinkled with something insulating, for example, sawdust, straw or hay.

25-08-2018 - village

Many gardeners plant garlic for the winter. This procedure allows the soil to be in constant activity. In the spring, you can already feast on fresh herbs. This earlier appearance of the crop attracts many gardeners.

A row of garlic before backfilling the soil

The first issue when growing this crop is the time of planting. It is difficult to say the exact date, because it is influenced by many characteristics. You can only determine the approximate landing time:

  • In regions with short summers and early frosts, it is recommended to plant in September. Later planting for the winter will lead to the fact that the plant will not be able to acquire the desired root system.
  • In regions with a mild and hot climate, landing begins only from the beginning of October. With an early planting, the plant will begin to grow and die when the first snow falls.

Choose a variety

In regions with a moderately cold climate, it is best to leave your choice on winter varieties.

They are planted for the winter at the end of September. Before the first frosts appear, the plant has time to acquire an extensive root system and gain immunity. As a result, winter passes with ease for them.

Variety of winter garlic Lyubasha

Late planting of winter garlic before winter leads to poor root formation and, as a result, some of the plants die, while the other will slowly come out in the spring.

The increased yield is affected not only by the variety, but also by the following characteristics:

  • the state of the soil layer;
  • characteristic weather conditions;
  • the quality of the selected seed.

Variety of winter garlic Gribovsky Yubileiny

Choose a place

Garlic loves dry places that have good light. Only loamy soils with low acidity are suitable for cultivation. A bed for planting is required to be prepared in 1.5 months.

To get a bountiful harvest, crop rotation must be observed. On the same bed, a plant can only be planted twice.

Good predecessors are cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, pumpkin and zucchini. All of them are annual crops that have a short growing season. Such plants enrich the soil with nitrogen. It is this substance that garlic requires for the full development and obtaining a rich harvest.

It is better to prepare a bed for planting in advance

Do not plant winter garlic for the winter after potatoes, radishes, turnips and carrots.

After these vegetable crops, the land is very depleted and it takes a long time to restore its useful material. Even if you use high-quality fertilizers after them, you still cannot achieve the desired result in a couple of months.

Preparing the bed for planting includes fertilizing. To prepare it you will need:

  • Horse manure humus - 1 bucket.
  • Nitrophoska - 1 tbsp. l.
  • Superphosphate - 1 tbsp.
  • Dolomite flour (you can take lime) - 1 cup.

This amount of fertilizer is consumed per 1 m2.

Scheme and depth of planting garlic

After top dressing, the bed is carefully dug up, deepening more than 20 cm. Then the earth is leveled with a garden rake. A solution of copper sulphate is sprayed onto a flat surface with a watering can. For this, 10 liters of water are taken, in which 40 grams of vitriol is dissolved. A liter of the mixture is enough for 1 m2.

As soon as the whole process of feeding the soil is over, it is covered with a film or a piece of roofing material. Such a shelter should be in the garden before disembarking.

Before planting garlic, it is necessary to designate future rows. Wood ash is poured between them. This will drive away insects and various pests from the beds.

Preparing garlic

Everyone knows that the propagation of garlic is selective. Therefore, the winter species is planted with cloves or bulbs-bulbs.

If planted with cloves, the result will be a good and quick harvest. If planting will be carried out with bulb bulbs, then the result is getting large bulbs.

Garlic cloves prepared for planting

True, you need to know that in the second option, in order to obtain seed, the plant must grow for two years. In the first year, the bulb produces only one clove, and in the second year it already has many cloves.

A healthy harvest can only be obtained with careful selection of planting material.

Choosing and preparing cloves:

  • The selection is based on size. For landing for the winter, only large cloves are required. They take root better and grow well.
  • Materials bitten and damaged by insects are excluded. Such cloves give a sick crop.

Disinfection and hardening must be carried out. To do this, garlic is aged in a solution that can be made from potassium permanganate or copper sulfate. Ash lye is also excellent. To prepare it, you need 400 g of wood ash and 2 liters of water. Everything is mixed and boiled for about 30 minutes. After cooling the solution, seed is placed in it for 2 hours.

Planting cloves in the garden

  • Preparation of winter garlic is as follows:
  • Only the largest are selected;
  • The seed must be well dried;
  • Immediately before planting, the bulbs are sprayed with a solution that is prepared either from potassium permanganate or from ash lye.

Landing

It is very good if the soil is slightly moist before planting. This will make it easier to mark rows. They are drawn at a distance of 25 cm. Which planting to choose will depend on the seed.

For teeth:

  • the depth of the groove is 16–17 cm;
  • river sand 3 cm is laid at the bottom of the groove;
  • the gap between the teeth is not more than 15 cm.

Bulbs will give a harvest only in the second year

For bulb:

  • the depth of the furrow is 3–4 cm;
  • the interval between the bulbs is not more than 10 cm.

Eat various ways planting plants in the fall:

The bed for winter garlic needs to be slightly moistened. For this, ordinary warm water is suitable. You can dissolve some yeast in water. After that, furrows are drawn at a distance of 20–25 cm. The plant is planted every 10 cm. After that, they are covered with earth and watered. Soil mulching is required. by the most in a simple way is falling asleep leaves.

If the plot is small, but you want to plant more, then you should use this option. This method involves a double planting of the plant in the fall.

The first cloves deepen by 10 cm. 5-6 cm of earth is poured on top and the second layer is planted. It should also be covered with 5-6 cm of earth. This method also requires soil mulching.

Garlic sprouts break through mulch in spring

The following method is very often called "lazy". In this case, the plant is planted for the winter, at any depth and there is no need to adhere to a certain distance between the seed. Here, only the gap between the rows is observed, which, as elsewhere, is 20–25 cm. After that, the rows are sprinkled with earth and leaves.

Which planting to choose depends on the gardener. The main thing is to provide the plant with the necessary fertilizers, because in early spring it will actively want to grow. Therefore, in the fall, special attention is paid to mulching. All leaves must be folded over. Before frost, the leaf layer can be updated.

If the plant does not keep up with acquiring a wide root system before frost, then it is recommended to cover the beds plastic wrap or a piece of ruberoid.

This will insulate the soil and give the plant extra time to establish itself before the onset of cold weather.

Hello! We all love garlic. Almost no meal is complete without it. Therefore, like many of you, I really want to have a good harvest. I think that I won’t boast too much if I say that my harvest is excellent every year. But it doesn't just happen to me. As they say, if you want to stomp - love and stomp. So you have to work hard.

Pledge good harvest garlic begins with its planting. I prefer to grow winter garlic, planting it before winter.
First you need to decide how deep to plant the garlic. I plant at two depths. And so that all the garlic cloves were planted at the same depth and the same distance, I made a small adaptation. I took a stalk from an old shovel, from its lower edge I noted three heights of a clove of garlic. Why three heights? Because one height is still sprinkled with earth when pulling out the cutting. Having measured the required distance on the handle, I nailed a limiter rail so as not to overdo it. The length of the nailed board on the handle is 23 cm. Of these, 3 cm is the thickness of the shovel handle, plus 10 cm on each side is the distance for planting teeth. Then the landings I get are perfectly even, measured to the centimeter.
I prepare a bed for planting garlic in advance. This year I will plant garlic under the predecessor - potatoes. This is one of the ideal predecessors for garlic: a lot of manure was brought under it in the spring, a lot organic fertilizers. Over the summer, the potatoes "ate" them and there was food left just for garlic.

Help from "Economy"
In no case should you put manure under garlic! This is fraught with outbreaks of fungal diseases.

I do not soak the garlic before planting. On the contrary, it must be dried very well so that “clothes fly off” from it. I plant two to three weeks before the expected frost, so that the cloves in the ground have time to strengthen and take root.

My advice
Every year I harvest garlic bulbs from the flowering heads. I do this in order to update my planting material from time to time, since garlic, like many crops, tends to accumulate diseases and degenerate.

Bulbs - the future planting material, I plant between two beds of garlic, which I plant with cloves. To do this, with the help of a flat cutter, I make a groove with a depth of 5-6 cm. It's okay if two or three bulbs fall next to each other. Single-teeth will grow from the bulbs, from which a very good planting material will be obtained in a year.
After planting the bulbs, I proceed to planting the cloves.

Advice from "Economy"
In no case should you do it the way many gardeners do - they literally drill teeth into the soil. So you can damage both the rudiments of the root system, and the clove itself.

Using a homemade planting tool, I make holes at a distance of 10 cm from each other. When all the holes are ready, I put a clove of garlic in them and then dig in. That's it, the garlic is planted. Watering and covering it is not necessary.
We are waiting for spring and the first shoots.
Irina Ploshkina

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