But no matter how successful human activity is in selecting useful plants, it still lags behind the nutritional needs of a growing society. We constantly need more and more productive plants. The population is growing very fast, we already know about this phenomenon. And more and more grain, potatoes, fruits and vegetables are required for the table, grass for livestock. Each cultivated hectare of land should be sown with productive plants. Only then will there be food for all.

We ourselves and our future generations look at selection and seed production with special hope.

After all, there is almost no free land suitable for cultivation in the world, and even in our country. On the contrary, the area of ​​arable land in the 20th century has been steadily decreasing. Look how many roads, cities, mines and reservoirs take away arable land and meadows from people!

But we simply have to get as much as possible from a hectare. So far, the possibilities are endless.

Scientists have found another way to far-reaching changes. This is the so-called mutagenesis, the unexpected appearance of out of the ordinary plants with new hereditary qualities. And we use it, even create artificially such plants.

The emergence of mutants, strange individuals - from the point of view of nature itself - is not fully understood. This may be a sudden change in the strength of solar radiation in one very limited place in the field. Or the impact of particularly strong reagents that suddenly appeared in the soil solution caused a major change in the hereditary constancy of the plant. Then either oppressed specimens appear and live, these short-lived inhabitants on earth, or plants that differ from relatives in one or more qualities: vigorous growth, foliage, high seed productivity, early or late ripening, an increase in protein in grain, sugar in fruits, resistance to illness.

Let's take one of such examples.

More than two decades ago, in the United States, one biologist walked around the experimental field. He drew attention to the nondescript corn with ears filled with hazy grains. The scientist suspected a mutation and comprehensively studied his find. Opeyka grain, as this form of corn was called, was found to contain slightly more protein than any other variety of corn. And although the plant itself gave a low yield, it was necessary to find out whether the trait of high protein content is inherited. Crossing productive varieties of corn with opaque brought a surprise: high protein content was inherited! The first corn hybrids with a high protein content appeared in the breeding center. For Agriculture where corn is one of the main fodder crops and is necessarily given to livestock with protein supplements - soybeans, peas, alfalfa, the appearance of hybrids containing an increased percentage of protein is a more than welcome phenomenon. Breeders have been working on increasing protein in corn grain for many years and not very successfully. different countries. Today, opaques can be seen in almost every laboratory. There are already high-protein hybrids in our country. In particular, such scientists-breeders as academicians M. I. Khadzhinov, B. P. Sokolov and G. S. Galeev were engaged in their cultivation.

Similar finds of experimentalists and breeders where more important than discovery new deposits of gold or platinum.

Let us recall that our famous Yaroslavl and Perm clovers became what they became famous in the country and throughout Europe, not by themselves, but with the help of selection: people did not pass by the mutants created by nature - especially productive specimens, propagated them. And, as they say, do not regret it!

We have already mentioned the Russian oilseed sunflower, such varieties as 8931, Smena, Mayak, created by breeders academicians V.S. After all, this is also the result of directed selection, the most difficult work of smart and enthusiastic people who have devoted their entire lives to selection.

So many of the vegetables we know most—cabbages, red beetroots, carrots, onions, and garlic, as well as sugar beets—are the result of long and painstaking selection and hybridization of wild plants of little value by often obscure plant breeders.

Their work is a great science, and the selection of geographically distant relatives, and hybridization, and selection are used here. And what is very important - a special art of insight, without which it is difficult to achieve real success.

Being engaged in selection at home, how to find out if it turned out new variety? I can tell a lot about gloxinia, although I have only recently begun to be interested in them. The most exciting thing is that you can pollinate and grow new varieties yourself from the resulting seeds. And the rest is very simple. The main thing is to sterilize the soil for planting seeds (I do this in the oven) and cover the leaf with a greenhouse for rooting. And two more factors:

1) the light mode is good to choose lighting, especially in conditions without artificial lighting;

2) irrigation mode water should cover the entire surface of the substrate, and not just half of it.

Following the path of error, I came up with the following:

I place my gloxinias on the southern windowsill, but in the summer I shade with old tulle;

I use wick watering (this is especially convenient and effective for a large collection).

When doing home breeding, how do you know if a new plant variety has turned out? Do I need to register it somehow in order to assign my name? And if so, how to do it? Which organization should I contact?

Many amateur flower growers receive seeds, and then seedlings, from their home plants. But in order for them to become official varieties, a lot of work needs to be done. When pollinating flowers, you must record from which pairs the seeds are obtained. Next, you need to choose from all the seedlings those that have well-distinguishable features, and you should take into account not only the decorative qualities (flower size, shape, color), but also the number of flowers, the duration of their flowering, the shape and quality of the leaves, the general appearance of the plant, resistance to diseases, etc.

If the seedling is superior in most of these traits to known varieties, you should propagate it to have a sufficient number of specimens, and at the same time check how well it reproduces and how accurately it transmits and retains its characters. Only after that you can name your intended variety and submit an application to the variety testing commission. Specialists will check whether such a name has been used before and whether the variety meets the standard requirements. After that, you will receive documents for authorship.

By the word “variety”, flower breeders understand a developed form, in which decorative and economic features are persistently transmitted in vegetative offspring. According to one of these characteristics, the new form should differ significantly from existing varieties belonging to an identical color class and size group. It is precisely such significant differences in each new variety or group of varieties (variety type) that determine the progress in the development of a particular culture and maintain a constant increased interest in it, which is especially enhanced when races with new original properties appear.

Recall the history of the development of gladioli. The first outbreak of enthusiasm for culture was noted in 1841, when a garden form was bred with a large flower of the Gandavensis type. Later, close attention to gladioli led to the involvement of the African gene pool in the selection, as a result of which the variety of colors and flower shapes increased. However, if new super interesting hybrids with original features are obtained, this does not mean at all that they are guaranteed success, and their appearance will entail progress in the development of culture. It is necessary to organically invest these features in modern garden forms (varieties). Here good example: the outstanding American breeder Amos Kandert in the 20s of the last century received an interesting hybrid with folded-fringed, dense perianth lobes. However, he did not have other best qualities garden gladiolus: a large flower, original color, powerful inflorescence, a large number of simultaneously open flowers, etc. Only when many breeders included new interesting traits in their breeding programs, carried out serious and lengthy work, most gladiolus lovers preferred varieties with folded-corrugated dense perianth segments. Thus, success came several decades after the appearance of a new feature.

When carrying out breeding work, the originator must remember that slight differences between the hybrid and the previous varieties, which, moreover, quickly disappear and have, apparently, a recessive character, do not give the right to design it as a variety, since it most likely will not have a public significant and will disappear without a trace in 2-3 years. Such cultivars appear “for an hour”, confusing even experienced growers who waste their strength and energy in vain, occupy a precious area for the reproduction of these “novelties”. In fact, if the breeder is honest and responsible for his products, he must reject such hybrids so as not to deceive himself, and, moreover, his hobby colleagues.

All the best new features of the hybrid must be stably transmitted to vegetative offspring, which is checked for a sufficiently long time. (5 - 6 years). Only after such a study, hybrids selected for the "elite" can receive the status of a variety.

What can you advise a gladiolus grower who is taking the first steps in breeding? Starting work, you should study the existing assortment well ( the best varieties) and clearly represent the purpose of their breeding activities. The crossbreeding program should be short, with a limited number of initial parental pairs, which will allow you to get and view a larger number of hybrids from one combination (direct and reverse crosses are desirable). For each trait of interest, the number of grown hybrids should be at least 500. This will allow us to draw the right conclusions about the prospects of the used crossing options and the feasibility of their further expansion.

Here we must remember the following patterns: the color of the mother plant is dominantly transmitted to the offspring; hybrids with larger flowers than the parent forms are obtained from the seeds of the lowest bolls; the same seeds dominantly transmit such a trait as a spot on the perianth lobes of the mother plant; varieties that have deficiencies in the structure of the inflorescence, in the fastening of the flower and the texture of the "petals" should not be taken as the mother, all these negative traits, as a rule, are dominantly inherited by the hybrid offspring; the same variety unequally transmits its traits to the offspring as maternal and paternal form.

So, I was convinced by experience that if we take the Heppines variety, outstanding for its time, as a mother plant, there will be no hybrids in the offspring with a full set of positive features inherent in it. When using it as a paternal form, hybrids are obtained with interesting corrugation, dense tissue of lobes, a large number of buds and simultaneously opened flowers, their frequent arrangement in the inflorescence, and strong peduncles.

When selecting previously studied varieties for crossing, first of all, you need to keep in mind the following features: at least 20 buds in an inflorescence, their successful arrangement in the spike, strong attachment, dense and corrugated perianth lobes, viability and high reproduction rate (at least one of the parents) , interesting and clean coloring. So, in an effort to get hybrids with a flower of purple or dark cherry color, you should choose parents from this color class, not attracting pink or white. True, light varieties (yellow, white, light bluish-lilac) obtained from crossing dark cherry red or purple varieties can be used as the paternal form.

In the genetic apparatus of gladiolus cells, a number of positive traits are linked to sharply negative ones, for example, the most saturated dark cherry-black color - with the non-viability of the hybrid, super-corrugated lobes - with a small number of buds in the inflorescence. However, it happens that during vegetative propagation, a short inflorescence increases from year to year, so super-corrugated hybrids require a longer study and verification. It should be remembered here that even super-corrugated varieties should not be used as a mother plant if there are few buds in the inflorescence, since the offspring will most likely be hybrids with a very short inflorescence (12-14 buds).

Starting to try your hand at breeding, you need to find "your face", and not use the already known combinations of crosses. And that's why. For example, Gagarin's Smile variety is very good as an initial parental form. But I have already exhausted its genetic potential to a large extent, so a less experienced breeder can achieve an outstanding result only if the number of hybrids grown is sharply increased (up to 100-150 thousand). With a smaller number (10-15 thousand in the variant), I worked hard and used most of the potential genetic possibilities, obtaining a number of good varieties, including the well-known Yantarnaya Baltika and the growing popularity Nizhny Novgorod. Other originators who included this variety in crossings, in most cases, received hybrids that were inferior to the original parental forms, which did not allow them to gain popularity and spread widely (Bolshaya Medveditsa, S. Vasilyev's selection, was a pleasant exception). Even the best of them after 3-4 years, having lost their recurrent viability (such as heterosis), gradually gave way to already known varieties.

How should the selection process be carried out? The first selection of hybrids is preferable to be carried out in the second year of flowering, when the plants are grown from large corms with a diameter of 2.83.5 cm. large, they will get inflorescences with more buds and larger flowers. But most often this does not happen: the heterotic effect, which manifests itself in the hybrid for the first two years, disappears, and powerful development and even purity of color disappear.

During the primary selection, if the hybrids do not have super-decorative features, promising and very promising are distinguished among them. They are labeled as follows: for the first, three crosses are placed on a thick sheet of paper, for the second - four, roll up such a “label” several times and lay behind the 3-4th stem sheet (instead of paper with marks, you can use different colors wire, twisting it around the stem). If the work is carried out in a large volume, all hybrids in the first year are not described. When harvesting, plants marked with three crosses are put in one box, leaving only 2-3 largest children with each corm (this is necessary to preserve the hybrid). They do the same with the marked four stars, leaving 4-5 children. The corms are labeled with the cross and hybrid combination numbers. This information is recorded in the breeder's log, along with a listing of the parental forms, the year of primary selection, and the main flowering times during which the selection was made.

The following spring, the corms are checked before planting. If there are attacks of planting material (especially among hybrids with 4 crosses), then their tubers are sown. This delays the second selection, but retains the selected material. It often happens that by the first selection, not all hybrid plants, even with powerful development, have time to bloom. An inexperienced breeder thinks that they will be the most valuable. Practice shows that, as a rule, there are no prospects here.

The subsequent, most responsible, selection is carried out in the "elite", moreover, both decorative features and biological and economic qualities are evaluated. Hybrid plants that are not endowed with super original decorative properties or especially valuable economic ones must meet the highest requirements for varieties within each individual size group. In recent years, many new varieties have appeared, especially from the Czech Republic and Slovakia (size groups 300 and 400), with 18-19 buds per spike. I must say that in this case the inflorescence, especially if the perianth segments are folded-corrugated, does not look perfectly slender and harmonious. As a rule, such novelties quickly lose their competitiveness when varieties with a large number of buds (up to 23-27) appear in this size group, which combine ornamentality, sophistication, and harmony.

However, there are such valuable features, thanks to which the hybrid can get into the “elite”, be used by the breeder for further work, and in some cases become a variety. This is first of all:

Early flowering period (at least two days before known early varieties);
the beginning of the formation of a replacement corm in mid-late hybrids simultaneously with the development of the inflorescence and its completion by the end of September - the first decade of October (in the Non-Chernozem zone);
flowering in the first year of cultivation from a medium and large baby (20 or more buds in an inflorescence);
more than 30 buds per ear;
the original form of a flower, lobes or inflorescence (hybrids, when finalized, can serve as the basis for a new group of gladioli);
original new color, a successful combination of several colors or different tones of one color;
persistent odor that does not disappear during the daytime;
full development of 3-4 inflorescences from one corm;
strong immunity to fungal diseases;
very dense tissue of perianth lobes and leaves, which increases resistance to thrips;
the ability to grow and develop well at low positive temperatures.

This list may include some other qualities. The breeding journal describes in detail the main features and indicators of the "elite" hybrid. As a rule, no more than 5-6% of plants fall into the "elite" from the first selection, which the next year (12-20 tuber buds are sown in the best hybrids) undergo a detailed study. Approximately 3-4% of them are selected for the "super elite". These are the contenders for the title of the variety. They sow the entire medium and large baby, and young corms are used in the subsequent competitive study.

The breeder by records studies the preservation of the leading traits of the hybrid in the vegetative offspring, identified during the first and subsequent flowering. The success is due primarily to the fact that they do not deteriorate after 45 years of cultivation.

The final competitive study is carried out against the background of the best modern varieties, selected according to size groups, color classes and other leading indicators. Large juvenile and young corms of the studied hybrids and control varieties are used here. Variety candidates should outperform control cultivars, and even more so not inferior to them. Therefore, no more than 3-4% of hybrids become varieties.

It is not easy to choose the right name for a variety. Some gladiolus growers irresponsibly use sonorous names and names famous people, but this will not make a bad undeveloped hybrid good variety and will not open a wide road to life, but will fade like a one-day moth.

The variety, and with them the breeder, stand the test of time. Any other path will not work here.

A. GROMOV, candidate of biological sciences

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According to violet lovers, these plants reproduce easily, so that, having an adult bush of varietal Saintpaulia, dozens of young plants can be grown very soon. In this case, vegetative methods are most often used, with the help of which it is possible to preserve all varietal characteristics.

Saintpaulias are propagated by leaf cuttings, dividing the bush and even flower stalks. When breeding new varieties, violets are propagated by seeds.

In the article, you will learn everything about the reproduction of violets at home with a leaf, cuttings, dividing a bush, etc. and about the subsequent care of indoor flowers.

Propagation of Saintpaulia by leaf cuttings

Consider how to propagate violet by cuttings. Best of all, leafy cuttings take root in the spring and summer. For rooting, choose a healthy violet leaf with a sufficiently long petiole (at least 4 cm in length).

You need to take the leaves not young, but not old. They should be large and without yellowness. Old and very young leaves usually die without taking root.

The leaf should be cut as close as possible to the stem of the plant. If part of the petiole still remains on the mother violet, it must be removed. Such a petiole can rot and destroy the entire plant.

The petiole of the cut leaf is cut diagonally so that the cut surface is as large as possible. After that, the leaf is rooted and planted in the ground. Leaf cuttings allow you to get a plant that is fully consistent with the mother. Only a few varieties, when propagated by leaves, lose their varietal characteristics.

Methods for rooting cuttings

Rooted leaf cuttings in water, in the ground or in sphagnum. Rooting in water is the easiest way. Cooled boiled water is poured into a glass and leaves are placed there with petioles down. The temperature during rooting must be maintained from 20 to 24ºС. Under these conditions, roots should appear in 2 weeks.

Do not rush to plant rooted leaves in the ground. You can wait another 2-3 weeks until sprouts begin to appear on the petiole. Now the leaves can be planted in separate pots with Saintpaulia soil. It is not necessary to deepen them much, they are planted no deeper than 10-15 mm. After planting, rooted leaf blades are watered as adult plants.

Sometimes a freshly cut leaf is immediately planted in the ground. After that, it is watered in normal mode, glass or jar do not cover.

Roots and young leaves appear after 1-1.5 months. Rooting in the ground is associated with the risk of leaf rotting and this method is considered not very productive.

Good results are obtained by rooting leaf cuttings in sphagnum.

In this substrate, they do not rot, since sphagnum moss has bactericidal properties. You can use both dry soaked and live moss.

Rooting violets immediately in the soil mixture

Very often, violet leaves are rooted directly in the soil. To do this, choose large and healthy leaves without defects and damage. Sluggish, rotten, broken leaves are not recommended to be taken, as they quickly disappear without taking root. The leaf stalk is shortened, leaving no more than 3 cm. The lower cut is made at an angle so that the area for root formation increases.

Leaves are rooted in small plastic pots up to 5 cm wide. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom, equal in thickness to 1/3 of the height of the pot. A moist rooting substrate is poured on top. It consists of an earthen mixture for violets and perlite in equal parts.

The leaves are not buried deep - no more than 2 cm. In order for the heavy sheet to hold tightly and not fall out of the soil, it is fixed with sticks or matches. For speedy rooting, it is placed under a glass jar or placed in a plastic bag along with a pot.

The temperature for rooting should be between 22-25ºС. Leaf lighting - diffused, at least 12 hours a day. The substrate should be moistened as it dries, and the leaves should be opened and ventilated. Under these conditions, they take root much earlier than in water.

Propagation of saintpaulia with part of a leaf

Violet can be grown not only from a whole leaf blade, but even from a leaf fragment. To do this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting material. The leaf is cut in half and the central vein is removed. Then it is cut into fragments having at least one vein.

Planting material is dried for 15-20 minutes to dry the sections. Then the leaf fragments are planted on the ground. They should not be buried. Pieces that are not dug in, but simply in close contact with moist soil, take root best of all. Sticks are used to fix them.

The planted parts of the leaf are covered with glass jars. The substrate is moistened as it dries.

The temperature for rooting is maintained at least 22ºС. Under these conditions, a lot of young plants can be obtained from one leaf, since a baby grows from each vein.

Practice shows that leaf pieces are best rooted not in the soil mixture, but in pure sphagnum moss. This material is very moisture-absorbing and has bactericidal properties. When rooted in it, planting material rots extremely rarely, takes root well and forms babies.

Violets are propagated by fragments of the leaf only by experienced flower growers, since any mistake leads to decay or drying of the planting material. But sometimes this method of reproduction is the only possible one.

This happens if a valuable violet leaf begins to disappear. Then all its diseased parts are removed, the leaf is cut into fragments and rooted.

Division of the violet bush

All varieties of violets are propagated in this way, even those that lose their varietal characteristics when propagated by leaves. Usually chimeras are propagated in this way. When grown from leaf cuttings, young plants often lose their unique coloration.

The division of the bush can be carried out during the spring transplantation of a very overgrown plant with many shoots.

Separate the shoots that grow from the base of the bush and already have their roots. Such sockets are carefully cut off so that a sufficient number of roots separate with them.

When propagated by a peduncle, varietal characteristics of violets are preserved. This method also manages to propagate all varieties of indoor violets while maintaining their varietal characteristics. Choose a peduncle that has recently faded or together with flowers so that it has small leaves.

The peduncle is cut above the leaf and 1.5-2 cm lower. Then it is rooted in water or in sphagnum and planted in the ground to such a depth that the leaf is on the surface.

Sowing Saintpaulia seeds

Varietal seeds of indoor violets can be bought at flower shops or garden centers. Sometimes you can get them at home.

During flowering, violet flowers can be pollinated, and sometimes they themselves are pollinated if pollen from a neighboring flower falls on the pistil. After that, a box with seeds is formed, but the seeds ripen within 6 months, and in some cases even longer.

Before you grow a violet from seeds, you need to prepare everything you need for seedlings. Violets seeds are very small, each box contains from 100 to 300 pieces.

Seeds are sown in late March or early April. They are not sprinkled with soil, but only pressed down to the ground. Watered with a moisture sprayer.

The temperature during germination must be maintained at least 22ºС. The container is covered with glass, but regularly ventilated to avoid the growth of fungi. Under such conditions, the seeds germinate in 2 weeks.

Seedlings dive 3 times as they grow. During the third pick, they are planted in separate pots. Reproduction of violet seeds is not an easy task.

soil for violets

The substrate for violets should be nutritious and at the same time loose and breathable. You should also take care of the sterility of the soil mixture, as violets are susceptible to various fungal infections and rot easily.

Soil for violets is sold in flower shops in assortment. Each potting mix manufacturer provides customers with substrates for these popular indoor plants. For sterilization of purchased soils, heating or freezing at low temperatures is used.

The soil for violets is difficult to prepare on your own. But if you really want to, you can try. The soil for violets should include:

• Leaf ground from under a birch or linden - 2 parts;
• Horse coarse-fiber peat - 1 part.

Humus is added to the resulting mixture - 1/10 of the total volume.

Perlite and vermiculite are used to loosen the soil. They are mixed in equal parts and add 1-2 cups per 1 bucket of soil mixture.

Ready soil for violets must be steamed. This procedure destroys pest eggs, harmful bacteria and fungi.

Caring for violets after breeding

Violet babies appear at the base of the leaf stalk. If the leaf was rooted in the ground and was covered with a glass jar on top, it is gradually opened. While the children are too small, they are not touched, but only moisten the soil as it dries. Young plants need diffused light, the sun's rays can burn them.

As soon as the young sockets reach a diameter of 5 cm, they are seated in separate pots.

By this time, the rooted old leaf is already drying out. For miniature varieties, the diameter of the rosette for transplanting can be 2-3 cm. Babies ready for transplantation should have 2-3 pairs of leaves. If there are fewer of them, it is likely that the young plant still has a very weak root system.

When transplanting, it is necessary to prepare several plastic pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. Drainage is laid on the bottom, and 1-2 cm of soil for violets is poured on top. Young rosettes are removed from the pot and carefully separated. Each baby should have well-developed roots. They are planted in a new pot, sprinkling the roots with soil on top. The earth in the pot is slightly compacted.

If some children have very weak roots, they are also planted in new pots and covered with glass jars on top. In conditions of high humidity, young rosettes take root quickly. When they go up, the banks can be removed. If the leaf gave only one baby, it is transplanted into a larger pot by transshipment.

After transplanting, young sockets must be watered. Further, they need to be looked after as adult plants. After the violet grows 5-6 large adult leaves, the old small leaves can be carefully cut off.

The first 2-3 months after transplantation, the sockets are not fed. Then you should start feeding with liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Usually young violets, rooted in late spring, begin to bloom in early autumn.

Now you know how to propagate violets at home correctly. You can read about the basic care of Saintpaulias here.

dom-florista.ru

How to breed new varieties of violets yourself

How to breed new varieties of violets to please a girl on her birthday) Who has already done this or who knows who did it, please throw pictures in the comments)

The work of a breeder in breeding a new variety of violets requires great patience, experience and knowledge from him. The process of how to breed a new variety of violet has been described and studied for more than one millennium. Its principle is based on the repeated process of crossing different varieties of violets and requires years of painstaking work. To breed a new variety of violets, you must first acquire a solid basic knowledge of growing different varieties of violets and be able to grow healthy flowers of various varieties. Then you need to learn how to properly pollinate them. In order to properly pollinate a violet flower, you need to apply pollen to the pistil, which is borrowed from the yellow anthers of the plant. The anther is opened in advance with a sterile needle. Pollen is ready for pollination after maturation, 5-6 days after the flower opens. After maturation, it remains active for three months. The maturation of the pistil can be determined by the characteristic drop of liquid that has come out, thanks to which the pollen is well attached to the surface of the pistil. After pollination, the amniotic ovary will begin to form a capsule in which, as it matures, small dust-like seeds are formed that have a dark brown color. After 5-7 months, when the seeds reach their maturity, the stalk will wither and the box can be easily separated from the plant. The ripe box must be removed from the plant, dried for several days and opened with a needle. Seeds are placed in paper bags and stored in a dry and dark place. Seeds can be sown 2-3 weeks after ripening, although depending on the variety, they can remain viable for six months or more. Transferring the characteristics of parental pairs to a new species of violet is extremely difficult. For example, if you cross a purple and pink violet, you can teach offspring with blue and purple shades of flowers. If you cross a violet with simple flowers and a terry, the probability of getting offspring with simple flowers is extremely high. During repeated pollination, new, previously uncreated varieties can be bred. But it will take time to grow a new variety, and more than one year.

Well, maybe for a girl's 50th birthday... It's VERY DIFFICULT AND VERY LONG. If your girlfriend loves violets and collects them, then go to any site dedicated to the trade in varietal violets and order planting material for cool varietal violets, get it in the mail and hand it to the girl. You can open the catalog and ask the girl to choose the violets that she liked. The key here is to stop...

This is a very long and painstaking business, if you start now, maybe in five years you will please her with a new variety. But this is if you are already an experienced grower and growing violets from seeds is not a problem for you.

Buy ready-made, at the exhibition. I think your girlfriend will be happy with any violet if there is none in her collection

indoor-plants-tips.ru

How violets breed at home - K-dou18.ru

Also, during the laying of buds, you can fertilize with a fertilizer containing phosphorus, and for young plants - with a large amount of nitrogen. Fertilizer for violets can be applied no more than once a month, alternating different types.

For good growth, only one plant can “live” in a pot, therefore, when growing, extra sockets must be planted, but with care so as not to touch the roots. This makes it possible to get another plant without spending extra money.

There are several ways in which the uzambar violet reproduces. Care at home will make it quite easy to prepare planting material for its reproduction and even the cultivation of new varieties:

• pieces of leaves;
• sockets or stepchildren;
• seeds (the longest process).

The best time for this is spring and summer, because in winter the plant is at rest and requires specific conditions for care.

Propagation by cuttings (leaves)

The easiest way to grow many plants of the Uzambar violet species at home is to propagate by cuttings. For this, the largest leaves are used, which must be cut with a very sharp knife at a slight angle (so as not to crush the stem).

There are 2 ways to root leaves:

• in the water, where a small piece of the leaf stem falls, the germination of the roots usually takes 10-14 days (the water must be added little by little, maintaining the same level);
• in special soil (peat mixture) at a depth sufficient to hold the leaf in a standing position at a slight angle, while the most important point is to maintain a microclimate above the ground using a plastic bag, can or cut piece plastic bottle, the soil must be maintained with sufficient moisture, the mini-greenhouse is removed after the rooting of the cutting.



Reproduction by rosettes

When the adult violet has already grown well, then daughter rosettes (stepchildren) begin to appear next to it, which will also help to propagate this plant. To plant a socket, you need to wait until it grows to a minimum of 5 cm in height. After that, it is very carefully separated from the main stem, trying not to harm the roots.

It is better to plant in the same soil, after rooting, after a month, the violet will release fresh young leaves and the formation of buds will begin.



Varieties and varieties of Saintpaulia

Varieties of uzambara violets are a great variety of different colors and shapes of leaves that were bred by professional biologists on purpose or even by amateurs by accident. Moreover, when propagated by cuttings, any grower can grow a completely new variety (degenerate varieties).

Saintpaulia varieties are divided into several groups according to the size of the rosette, the variety of flowers and the shape of the leaves.

So, varieties with a monochromatic color or with a border naturally inherit the traits of their parents during the leaf propagation method, and the border can appear only during the second flowering.

Fantasy species (decorated with spots, stripes, dots) are recommended to be propagated by peduncles or with the help of stepchildren, then they inherit this color. Violets-“chimeras” are propagated in the same way, having a pattern on flowers in the form of rays.

Ampel varieties with a long stem and growing at several points are distinguished by a large number of flowers and many rosettes.

Wasp-type varieties are one of the new and original types of violets, in which the flower has 2 short upper petals and 3 lower ones, longer and narrower, forming an exotic appearance.



One of the now popular varieties - the blue violet, bred in Russia, has large, up to 10 cm, bright blue flowers, and the plant itself is strongly branched and up to 40 cm high. There are several such varieties of violets that have different flower shapes:

• Blue fog - pale blue fluffy balls with wavy edges.
• Blue Danube - has many blue flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
• Blue dragon - pale blue stars with a blue center, a wide red border with a white-golden edge, flowers up to 6 cm in size.
• Blue Lagoon - bright blue violet with a blue spot and a red flounce around the edge.



Diseases and treatment of Saintpaulia

Violets are very whimsical plants that require a certain humidity of air and soil, a lot of light, but not direct sunlight, certain care and feeding. But even when all these conditions are met, it happens that the plant gets sick.

The main task in such a situation is to learn how to determine the cause of the disease and distinguish infectious diseases uzambar violet and non-infectious, i.e. caused by a lack of some useful substances or improper conditions of detention.

One of the common problems is the yellowing of the leaves of the plant, most often caused by improper soil acidity, too bright sun or strong shading.



Infectious diseases of violets:

• Fusarium (rosette rotting) - the causative agent is the Fusarium fungus, which penetrates into young roots under the wrong conditions (heavy soil, regular water overflow, especially cold, a very large pot). Due to the disease, the petioles of the leaves turn brown and begin to fall off. To prevent the appearance of this fungus, it is recommended to water the plant every 2 months with a solution of foundationol. For treatment, violets should be treated with fungicides, after removing dried or rotten stems and leaves.
• Powdery mildew - appears as a whitish coating on all surface parts, spreads with a lack of lighting, improper humidity, dust or dirt in the air. The reason may also be a lack (potassium and phosphorus) or an excess of trace elements (nitrogen). For treatment, you can use spraying with foundationazole or benlat (usually 1 time is enough, but can be repeated if necessary). To not get sick powdery mildew uzambara violet, home care for it should be as follows: for prevention, wipe the leaves with wet wipes, ventilate the room and prevent excess moisture in the pot;



• Late blight - rotting of the root neck of violets and the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which is caused by a fungus that penetrates through the roots or wounds on the stems. The danger of late blight is that fungal spores settle in the soil, and therefore the only way out is to destroy the plant and sterilize the pot. To prevent the occurrence of this unpleasant disease, superphosphate should be added to the soil and the humidity in the room should not be higher than 60%;
• Gray rot, which is caused by the fungus botrytis, manifests itself as a gray-brown bloom on all upper parts of the plant, and then rotting and death of the violet. The fungus often enters with contaminated soil, therefore, before planting each plant, it is recommended to freeze the soil in a freezer, and then water it with a solution of manganese. All diseased parts of the violet must be destroyed, and the plant should be treated with fungicides. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to prevent excessive watering and a sharp drop in temperature in the room.

Violets pests

The most common pests that affect saintpaulias:

• worms - affect leaves and young flower stalks, deforming them and causing red spots to appear; treatment with Actellik or Fitoverm helps against them;
• aphids are usually brought into the house from fresh flowers, insects eat flower buds, using plant sap as food; to get rid of aphids, you must use "Moskpilan" or "Aktellik";
• ticks (several species) - spoil young leaves, to combat them, plants are treated with Akarin, Fitoverm, etc.



Uzambara violet, or Saintpaulia - very beautiful and diverse in colors and varieties ornamental plant, which is successfully grown on windowsills by many amateurs and professionals of decorative floriculture.

Propagation of violets by leaf

Violet is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant, which has more than five hundred varieties that differ in color, shape and size of leaves and flowers. Since it blooms in early spring, its flowering seems to mark the end of winter. It is believed that the birthplace of violets is Australia.

Violet: care and reproduction at home

This flower can be grown in a greenhouse or at home. Violet reaches a height of 30 cm and is characterized by active growth.

Caring for flowers is quite simple and does not take much time. Violets love good lighting however, do not place them in direct sunlight. most better side for cultivation will be northern, in extreme cases - eastern or western.

In order to ensure uniform growth and development of the violet from all sides, it is periodically necessary to turn it different sides in relation to the world.

It is advisable to add coarse sand and peat moss to the ground with a pot. Is it necessary to prepare drainage in advance so that it takes at least? pot.

Violet loves water, so the soil in the pot should be constantly moist. However, do not pour too much water, otherwise the roots may begin to rot.

Violet needs to be repotted once a year. However, do not take a larger pot. It is enough to change the earth and plant the plant in the same pot.

How to propagate violet leaves?

Reproduction of violets is carried out by leaves or their fragments, that is, part of the leaf. Leaf rooting can be carried out in water or soil.

Rooting a whole leaf in water

• We pinch off a leaf with a cutting from a bush at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the petiole should be no more than 4 cm.
• . Let the cutting area dry for 15 minutes.
• For rooting in water the best way a dark glass container is suitable. You can take medicine bottles. Little water is needed. Pour the liquid to a level of no more than 1.5 cm from the day of the container.
• We create greenhouse conditions for the leaf by covering it with a plastic container.



Rooting a whole leaf in the ground

Rooting a leaf fragment in water or soil

If “tight” varieties of violets are used in the growing process, then babies may appear no earlier than four to six months from the moment of planting. In this case, you can stimulate faster growth of children if you intentionally damage the leaf plate. With a sharp knife, you need to cut off one third or one quarter of the leaf. The cut can be made obliquely by cutting a triangle along the veins, or in a straight line, as shown in the photo below.

The technique for planting a part of a leaf is the same as for the whole.

If you follow the rules for the care and reproduction of violets at home, you will be pleased with luxurious hats of beautiful flowers.

Reproduction of violets at home

There are several ways to propagate indoor violets and they cannot be unequivocally called simple or complex, as well as the process of their reproduction as a whole. Violets are whimsical and delicate plants, but those who have been growing for a long time, confidently say that with experience it becomes absolutely simple. What are the subtleties, what are the features, and which method gives the highest probability of rooting a new plant, we will describe further.

There are vegetative methods of reproduction: by a leaf, a whole or part of it and a peduncle, or by sowing seeds. Each has its pros and cons, so that everyone understands how it will be easier for him, we will describe each method in detail.

Violet leaf propagation

Propagation of violets by division of a leaf or a whole leaf is the most common and in a simple way. Everything here is primitive and simple: a healthy leaf is cut off or neatly torn off from the mother plant and planted in the ground. You can wait for the roots to grow in the water and only after that, knowing for sure that there are already roots, plant them in the ground. This is already individual for everyone. For germination in the store, a special soil for violets is selected (it may also be called "for saintpaulias"). If germination took place in water, then rooted cuttings are planted in the soil with great care, since the root is very fragile and sensitive.

If it is not possible to root a whole sheet, or if you want to get several rosettes from one leaflet, then there are options for dividing the sheet. The upper part is cut off from it, but not horizontally, but along the veins (a triangle is cut off) and this part is planted to form rosettes.

It is possible to divide the entire sheet into several segments along the veins and plant them all in a kind of greenhouse, then much more borings will be created. This, of course, is a somewhat jeweler's work that requires accuracy, skills and a very sharp tool (the use of which also requires accuracy and skill), but with a strong desire it is worth a try. The first time may not work out, but with each subsequent everything will become much easier.

It is worth noting that not all violets undergo this method of reproduction. The common and beloved “violetcomans” of Saintpaulia reproduce very well with this method, but it is not suitable for chimeras, varietal characteristics are not transmitted when the leaf is separated.

Propagation of violets by peduncles

We immediately warn you that not all flower stalks are suitable for propagation, so they should first be carefully examined, and then it should be determined whether to use it in this way, or still cut off the leaf. So, if there are small leaves on the peduncle slightly below the flowers, then it can become the basis for a new violet.

Here, again, there are two options: you can simply bend such a peduncle to the ground, giving it the opportunity to grow roots in this way, or carefully cut it off and root it like a leaf. When choosing an option, you should be guided by how the peduncle is located and whether bending the plant does not injure.

When propagating, therefore, varietal characteristics are always transmitted, which is a plus, but there are two minuses. Firstly, flower stalks with leaves are rare, and secondly, not everyone wants to deprive their beauty of his main decoration - flowers.

Reproduction of violet seeds

Propagation of violets by seeds is also practiced, but not too often, and there are two good reasons for this. The first is that this process is lengthy, painstaking and unreliable, and the second is that when sowing seeds, the original plant variety is not preserved, that is, the violet reproduces, but not the same. The method is used mainly just for breeding new varieties.

The method of sowing seeds, as you can already understand, is used by breeders. To prepare enthusiasts for future results, we note that no more than 1-3% of newly bred plants will continue to grow after the first flowering, all the rest will become unusable and thrown out. In addition, germinated sprouts will require constant supervision, control and care, therefore, at home, this method is not considered appropriate and generally real, so we recommend choosing any method. vegetative propagation violets.

Vegetative propagation of violets

The article provided two options for vegetative propagation of violets: a peduncle and a leaf or part of it. They are used most often and give good results. There is a third option - reproduction by side rosettes, children.

Children grow up quite often. This may be caused by injury to the plant, removal of the stem of an adult plant, or it may be a species feature. Babies can grow in the axils of the leaves or on the stem, but even so, and so they are quite easy to separate. The separation of children is generally recommended so that they do not interfere with the development and growth of the main plant. The unequivocal advantage of this method of reproduction is the absolute repetition of species characteristics and simplicity, especially since the children take root quite quickly.

How to grow a violet from a leaf, video

And finally, a useful video and growing violets from a leaf.

How to propagate violet leaves at home?

Violet leaf propagation at home is possible. However, there are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account. There are certain requirements for choosing a seedling, and there are also rules for its primary processing. In order for the leaf to begin to take root, you need to properly plant it in soil or water. In the first case, one should not forget about the irrigation regime, so that the plant will take root soon, and about the harm that bacteria can cause to seedlings.

Violet leaf propagation takes place in several stages. They consist of:

1. Selection of strong leaves. This is an important point, since the success of reproduction depends on the correct selection. The main thing is to make sure that the leaves are healthy (not infected with bacteria).

2. Seedling preparation. For him, it is necessary to create favorable conditions in which he can take root. There are two ways to prepare a seedling: in soil and in water.

3. Planting the cutting and further care. At this stage, it is worth observing the conditions associated with the choice of soil, pot and irrigation regime.

Best time The year for plant propagation by leaf is spring and summer, since during this period there is enough light and heat. But if breeding a plant with a leaf is the only way to save a rare variety, then an experienced grower will be able to carry out his plan in the rest of the year. To do this, create greenhouse conditions. The temperature in the room should be at the level of + 22 ... + 26 ° C, the humidity of the air is considered optimal at 50-60%.

Before you start transplanting a plant, you need to study the planting material. Choose juicy, dark green sheets without defects. Tips for choosing material for transplanting a flower:

k-dou18.ru

How to propagate violet leaves at home

Uzambara violets are attractive for home maintenance with their long flowering, variety of varieties, unpretentiousness and the ability to easy breeding. These flowers do not need a lot of space on the windowsill, sometimes they are even kept on racks next to the window, illuminated by lamps daylight. Saintpaulias are considered a symbol of home comfort, they are in almost every apartment. Let's talk about how you can propagate these delicate plants with just one leaf.

Description of the uzambar violet (photo)

Violet belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. This plant was first discovered in East Africa. Saintpaulia is classified as a herbaceous plant with a very short stem and a lush rosette of leaves. The leaves are most often heart-shaped, they can be rounded and more elongated. The upper side of the leaf has pubescence, its color can be different shades of green. The lower part of the leaves is lighter, greenish or purple. The leaves look quilted due to pronounced veins.

On one peduncle, from 3 to 7 medium-sized flowers are formed. With the full flowering of an adult rosette, up to 100 flowers can be present on a violet at the same time. At good conditions Saintpaulia content bloom continuously 8-9 months a year. Nearly 1,200 new hybrid varieties. Their difference can be seen both in the size of the leaf rosette and in the shape and color of the flowers.

Violets are bred with simple, semi-double and double inflorescences. Violets-chimeras are gaining more and more popularity. Their gene structure is changed in such a way that the synthesis of pigments occurs differently in different parts of the petals and the color is very unusual. Unfortunately, the varietal characteristics of such plants are lost during leaf propagation, remaining only in stepchildren.

Violet leaf propagation correctly (step by step)

The rooting ability is strongly influenced by the quality of the planting material. If you decide to propagate the violet with a leaf, choose it from the middle layers of the leaf rosette. The lower old leaves are already weaker and have less vitality. Their proximity to the ground increases the risk of pathogenic microflora and fungal spores on them. And if you cut a leaf from the top of the outlet, it is easy to damage the growth point, in which case the plant will stop developing.

On a note! The leaf selected for propagation must be fully formed, have good turgor and sufficient size.

If you got a leaf received by mail or brought by your friends, which managed to become slightly lethargic, soaking in warm boiled water with the addition of a few crystals of potassium permanganate will help. It is advisable to hold it in solution for about 2 hours, this will restore elasticity and at the same time kill the pathogenic flora.

After that, the sheet must be blotted with a napkin and cut off the edge of the handle with a sharp knife so that its length is 3-4 cm. The cut can be made either straight or at an angle of 45 degrees. Then proceed to the process of rooting, which can be done in two ways: in water and in the substrate.

Rooting in water

The “water” method is more suitable for inexperienced flower growers, since with this method of rooting it is easy to observe the process of root growth and the condition of the cutting. It is advisable to use boiled or filtered water so that it does not spoil quickly. It is better to use dishes from dark glass. For rooting in water you need:

• Thoroughly wash and rinse the cup for the leaf cutting with boiling water and fill it with water.
• Place the sheet in a container so that the lower part of the petiole is immersed in water by 1-2 cm. You can keep it in the required position with a lid or a sheet of thick paper with a hole. The petiole should not touch the walls of the glass.
• Throw a pill into the water activated carbon or small charcoal to prevent rotting processes.
• After that, monitor the water level, constantly topping it up to the original level.
• When the roots reach a length of 1-2 cm, plant a leaf of violet in the substrate.

If the process goes as it should, then the appearance of the roots can be seen in 2-4 weeks. Sometimes it happens that the end of the leaf petiole still rots. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the affected tissue to a healthy place and put the leaf back into the rooting cup. In this case, the dishes are treated with an antiseptic, and then fresh water is poured.

Attention! Some lovers of violets with the "water" rooting method leave the leaf in the water until a young rosette appears. We do not recommend doing this, as in this case the shoots may be weakened, which will worsen their further development.

When planting a leaf with roots in the soil, keep in mind that you can not deepen it much, otherwise it will be more difficult for the outlet to break through. The pot for planting is 1/3 filled with expanded clay, on top of which a loose soil mixture is laid. The planted leaf is covered with a glass jar, after moistening the substrate. The jar is lifted daily for 5-10 minutes for ventilation, this is necessary. They remove the shelter after 2-3 weeks when a young outlet appears.

How to propagate a violet leaf in water: video

Rooting in the substrate

If a leaf cutting is planted immediately in the ground, rooting will occur even faster than in water. It is better to resort to this method if the leaf is not quite mature or, on the contrary, is old, having lost turgor. When planting in the ground, the petiole of the leaf is cut a little shorter, up to 1.5 centimeters. It is enough to take a pot quite small, 5 cm in diameter. It must have a drainage hole. A drainage layer is poured to the bottom, and then soil, consisting of fertile soil and perlite. Perlite will help retain moisture in a small amount of soil and at the same time facilitate air access to the roots.

Useful advice! For an antibacterial effect, sphagnum can be added to the composition of the substrate.

• Before planting, the substrate should be slightly moistened.
• Leaf cuttings of miniature hybrids are deepened by 0.5 cm, and standard cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
• If you have a lot of planting material, you can plant several leaves in one cup at once.
• In order not to get confused in the varieties, markings are glued on the outside.
• After planting, cover the leaf with a film or jar, creating a greenhouse. This will provide increased humidity inside and protect the seedling from drafts. Periodically moisten the earth and ventilate.

Some flower growers share their experience of planting leaf cuttings in peat tablets. They claim that, due to the presence nutrients, with this method of planting, roots and young rosettes form very quickly. Warmth and light are important for successful rooting in the substrate. Daylight hours should be at least 12 hours, and the temperature in the room should be 22-26 degrees.

Rooting a violet leaf cutting in a substrate: video

violet care

In order for violets to remain healthy and bloom for a long time, they need to create comfortable conditions by providing the necessary temperature, lighting, humidity, timely feeding and transplanting. Let's take a look at these important points.

Temperature and lighting

Violets are thermophilic. The minimum temperature of their content should not fall below 18 degrees, the optimal indicators are 20-24 degrees Celsius. Plants must be protected from drafts. If window sills are too cold in winter, place the violet pots on insulating stands to keep the roots cool.

Saintpaulias need bright and diffused lighting, without direct sunlight. In summer, it is better to place them on the northern and eastern windows, and in winter move them to the southern and western window sills. On very sunny days, it is necessary to organize shading on the windows; in winter, the plants, on the contrary, illuminate. So that the socket does not bend, it is periodically turned to the light on the other side. It is possible to grow violets in completely artificial light, this does not affect their growth in any way. For this, fluorescent lamps are quite suitable.

Humidity and watering

Violets do not like dry air. Especially flowers suffer from it during the period when central heating is turned on. At the same time, it is impossible to spray the leaves due to the fact that they are pubescent. The villi can retain water, as a result of which rot will develop on the leaves. To humidify the air, it is advisable to use special humidifiers or place water containers on the windowsill.

Violets can be watered from above from a syringe or a watering can with a narrow spout, such watering is called drip. In this case, you need to be careful with the amount of water and make sure that it does not fall on the leaves. If you find it difficult to regulate watering in this way, water the saintpaulias through the pan.

Clean, settled water is poured there, the soil is allowed to soak with moisture, after which the remaining water is drained. This method is considered safer in terms of waterlogging. Some use wick watering, but it is not suitable for all varieties and has several disadvantages. This method is best used when necessary, for example, while leaving on vacation or a business trip.

Top dressing and transplants

For top dressing, you can use superphosphate granules, which are laid when transplanted into the soil. This supply of violets will last for a while. After 1-2 months, you can start making weekly complex and organic fertilizers, alternating between them. Organics are well absorbed only by adult and healthy specimens. Complex fertilizer is diluted in water according to the instructions and watered with a solution of moistened soil.

Violet should not be planted in large pots, otherwise you may not wait for flowering. The new pot should be 2 cm larger than the old one in diameter. Better if it is made of plastic. You can plant a violet in the same container. In this case, they take it out of the pot, cut off the old and dead roots, shake off the old soil, and then plant the flower in place, adding some fresh earth. It is better to rinse the pot well inside with a brush to disinfect it and remove fungal spores.

As a primer, you can take special soil for Saintpaulia, adding a little perlite and vermiculite to it.

Before landing on the bottom, it is necessary to lay a drainage layer of expanded clay. The soil should be moist, but not damp. Plant the plant so that the leaf socket does not touch the ground. The first watering is carried out two days after transplantation.

Flower growers are advised to start breeding violets with simpler varieties, capricious hybrids require experience in keeping. If you provide a plant ideal conditions, it will not create any problems for you. As you gain experience, you will make fewer and fewer mistakes, learn to "understand" your flower. After that, it will be possible to start keeping and propagating more exotic varieties.

Source

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We will tell you how to cross between two varieties of the same plant species - this method is called hybridization. Let it be plants of different colors or differing in the shape of petals, leaves. Or perhaps they will differ in terms of flowering or requirements for external conditions?

Choose plants that bloom quickly to speed up the experiment. It is also better to start with unpretentious flowers - for example, foxgloves, marigolds or delphiniums.

The course of the experiment and the diary of observations

First, formulate your goals - what do you want to get from the experiment. What are the desired traits for new varieties?

Keep a notebook-diary where you write down the goals and record the progress of the experiment from beginning to end.

Do not forget to describe in detail the original plants, and then the resulting hybrids. Here are the most important point: plant health, growth intensity, size, color, aroma, flowering time.

flower structure

In our article, a flower will be considered as an example, you can see it in the diagram and in the photographs.

Appearance of flowers different plants may vary considerably, but are essentially the same.

flower pollination

1. Start by choosing two plants. One will pollinator, and the other seed plant. Choose healthy and strong plants.

2. Keep a close eye on the seed plant. Choose an unblown bud with which you will carry out all manipulations, mark it. In addition, it will have to isolate before opening- tying it in a linen light bag. As soon as the flower begins to open, cut off all the stamens from it to avoid accidental pollination.

3. Once the flower of the seed plant is fully opened, put pollen on it from a pollinator plant. Pollen can be transferred with a cotton swab, a brush, or by tearing out the stamens of the pollinating flower and bringing them directly to the seed. Apply the pollen to the stigma of the flower of the seed plant.

4.Put on the flower of the seed plant linen bag. Do not forget to make the necessary notes in the diary of observations - about the time of pollination.

5. To be safe, repeat the operation with pollination after a while - for example, after a couple of days (depending on the timing of flowering).

Choose two flowers - one will serve as a pollinator, the other plant will become a seed.	Immediately, as soon as the flower of the seed plant blooms, cut off all the stamens from it.
Apply the pollen taken from the pollinating flower to the pistil of the flower of the seed plant.	A pollinated flower should definitely be marked.

Obtaining hybrids

1. If pollination went well, then soon the flower will begin to fade, and the ovary will increase. Do not remove the bag from the plant until the seeds are ripe.

2. Plant the resulting seeds as seedlings. When will you receive young hybrid plants, then give them a separate place in the garden or transplant them into boxes.

3. Now wait for the hybrids to bloom. Don't forget to write down all your observations in your diary. Among the first, and even the second generation, there may be flowers that exactly repeat the parental properties without changes. Such copies are rejected immediately. Check in with your goals and select among the received new plants those that best fit the desired characteristics. You can also pollinate them by hand, or isolate them.

The flower of the seed plant should be protected with a textile bag.

When you get the seeds, plant them for seedlings. Place young plants in boxes.

Keep a close eye on your new hybrid, and record your observations in a diary.

If you decide to seriously engage in breeding new varieties, then you will need the advice of a specialist breeder. The fact is that you will need to find out whether you really have bred a new variety or are you following the path already beaten by someone. Competition in the field of creating new varieties is very high.

For those who decide to experiment with hybridization as a home hobby, we wish to get a lot of pleasure from this activity, make many joyful discoveries and finally give all our gardening friends a new variety of some wonderful flower named after itself.