Stone wool, one of the varieties of mineral wool, is perfect for warming the house and any room in it. With the help of our advice, you can choose the right material, make high-quality installation and take care of its long service life.

Stone wool: what is it made of

Cotton wool is made from rocks of basalt, marl or metamorphic origin. Basalt rocks are considered the best component. However, the quality will determine the acidity, which should be controlled by carbonate additions. The higher the acidity, the stronger and more durable cotton wool.

Stone wool insulation: what is it made of? Stone wool also contains a binder that holds the fibers together. The most famous substances are synthetic. They include phenol-formaldehyde resins and various impurities that make the material waterproof.

In modern production, stone insulation is made from a special component - "Pele's hair", or glass fiber. The stone wool technology for its manufacture consists of a number of stages, the main of which is the separation of the rock into fibers.

Characteristics and indicators of stone wool

The material has several important properties that are indispensable for repair or construction.

• Thermal insulation. Wall insulation with stone wool is a great way to protect yourself from the cold in winter and the heat in summer. The temperature in the room will be constantly regulated. The effectiveness of this property depends on the components in the composition. It turned out that stone wool for wall insulation is the right solution.
• Does not ignite. Even at temperatures above 1000˚C, stone wool does not ignite. Therefore, it belongs to safe materials, and, moreover, it protects other combustible parts of the house, preventing the spread of fire. Although the binders evaporate already at 200˚C.
• permanent form. Due to this characteristic, cotton can withstand mechanical stress. This allows you to use stone wool for floors that are constantly under load. Efficiency depends on the selected binder.
• Soundproofing. Provides simple protection from street or neighborhood noise as the fibers block sound propagation.
• Waterproof. Excess moisture in the room comes out without getting into the cotton wool. This property helps to maintain optimal humidity. And no matter how humid the air is, stone wool always remains dry, and mold and other muck do not start on it.
• Environmental friendliness. During production and operation environment not subject to negative influences.

Pros and cons

Mineral wool for insulation has the following advantages:

• non-combustible;
• Waterproof;
• Stone wool - insulation for walls - has a wide range of operating temperatures;
• Eco-friendly;
• Safe during installation and operation;
• Good heat and sound insulation;
• It is easier to insulate with stone wool than with other materials.

Flaws:

• Wall insulation with wool is a costly undertaking. Don't expect to buy cheap cotton wool. Low prices for it indicate that it contains a lot of impurities and low-quality material.
• Dust. The process of insulating the walls of a house with stone wool is accompanied by an abundant amount of dust, especially if it is handled carelessly. For protection, it is advisable to take a respirator, although a regular mask from a pharmacy will do.

Stone wool: application

Wool insulation is used in the construction of baths, saunas, swimming pools, when laying communications, wells and air ducts. It is even placed in the foundations of houses.

Depending on where the insulation will be used, and what load it will have, it is divided into classes:

• Soft. Suitable for laying wells and ventilated walls.
• Semi-rigid. Suitable for walls in multi-storey buildings, for thermal insulation of pipes.
• Hard. Used in foundations, floors.

Is there any harm to health during installation?

Many inexperienced builders often confuse stone wool and glass wool, although they are actually two. different material belonging to a single class of mineral wool. Because of this, a common myth has arisen that stone wool, like glass wool, is also harmful to health, damaging the eyes and lungs. But this is only a delusion.

The point here is its special structure. Insulation - stone fiber bonded with formaldehyde resins, they do not break down and do not spread harmful substances. Therefore, we confidently declare that this building material is absolutely safe.

How to choose stone wool?

Before purchasing stone wool, you need to find out the amount of material you need and calculate the load that will fall on the insulation.

We have already said that the prices for it are high, but you can still save. The following factors will affect the cost:

• cotton wool density;
• Manufacturer;
• Binder category and rock;
• The presence of another layer of coating;
• Purchased quantity.

When buying, be sure to look at the instructions, they usually indicate the scope of stone wool and its specifications. The most trusted companies are Ursa (URSA), TechnoNIKOL and Rockwool. The last company is located in Denmark; insulation materials from this country are of the highest quality, since strict certification bodies work there.

When choosing, check with the seller how the fibers are located: horizontally, vertically or in a chaotic manner. The first two types do not allow the material to deform, and the latter provides good heat and sound insulation.

Depending on the density, stone wool is usually divided into categories. Stone wool: wall slabs:

• Mark P-75. Suitable for horizontal, unstressed interior surfaces for pipe insulation.
• Insulation for walls cotton wool brand P-125. Suitable for both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is ideal for insulating ceilings, floors and interior walls.
• PZh-175. Stone insulation for walls made of metal profiled sheet or reinforced concrete.
• Wool insulation PPZh-200. The hardest stone wool. This is used in buildings for engineering purposes, protecting them from fire.

Which mineral wool is better for wall insulation

Warming a house with stone wool begins with the choice of a manufacturer.

Stone wool "ROCKWOOL" - popular both in the domestic market and in the foreign. It has the following distinctive characteristics:

• Good level of strength;
• Mineral wool for wall insulation serves from 15 years;
• The fibers are arranged in a chaotic manner;
• Helps save electricity, as the manufacturer claims;
• An additional layer that increases resistance to moisture.

Stone wool "TechnoNIKOL".

• Produced only on the basis of basalt rocks;
• Extra layer for noise reduction;
• Light weight for easy work.

Wall insulation stone wool "URSA":

• Special packaging will make it easy to transport the material and work with it;
• Does not contain formaldehyde resins, therefore it is recommended for schools, hospitals, etc.

Buying a truly high-quality product can sometimes be difficult. Therefore, you need to know some important points.

• Pay attention to where and how cotton wool is stored. Most often, it is stored in its original packaging and wrapped in shrink film. Make sure there are no holes or cuts on the packaging. Cotton wool should not be in the open air, but under a canopy.
• If stone wool is packed in cardboard boxes (expensive heaters are usually placed in them), then its storage place must be protected from moisture. Even after a little getting wet, it will not be usable.
• Purchase goods only from trusted sellers. Give preference to those stores that are closer to you - this will reduce the cost of delivery.

Stone wool installation

Before you properly insulate the wall with mineral wool, you need to determine where the work will be carried out. After all, the insulation of the walls of the house with cotton wool in each area will look different. On the facades, one technology is used, on the attics - a completely different one.

Balcony and loggia

The effective insulation of a house with stone wool directly depends on the quality of the surface preparation. Therefore, it is logical to talk about it briefly.

• Remove all excess debris from the loggia. Make the necessary measurements by calculating the amount of mineral wool. Estimate the load on the floor.
• Next comes the glazing of the balcony. Here it is better to give preference plastic windows. Seal all cracks in frames and railings mounting foam. This will greatly protect the balcony from moisture and cold.
• Waterproofing is the next step. protective equipment(rolled or coated) must first be applied to the floor and ceiling. But wall protection is also desirable.

Only now you can proceed directly to laying. Insulation with mineral wool slabs occurs as follows:

1. First of all, the crate is made. It is most often made of wood (less often - of metal). Optimal Thickness timber - 1 cm more than stone wool slabs. The dimensions of the cells in the lattice should be about a centimeter smaller than a piece of insulation.
2. Wool insulation for walls: laying goes from top to bottom: first the ceiling, then the walls and the floor. The ceiling needs a denser mineral wool, the usual one is suitable for walls and floors.
3. A special glue is applied to the plate, and it is placed in place in the cell. Before doing this, do not forget to clean the surface of dirt and remove irregularities.
4. You can press the slab firmly and evenly with plywood of a suitable size. Thermal insulation: stone wool is the best material for this.
5. The last step is vapor barrier using penofol (it is sometimes replaced with ordinary polyethylene).

Stone wool for attic walls

After you have installed the rafters and laid the roof on them, you can start warming the house with cotton wool. But first you need to create a layer of waterproofing. It will not allow water to get on the mineral wool and wooden structures. The best material for this is ordinary polyethylene. Fastening is carried out with a stapler.

If the waterproofing layer goes over the entire surface of the roof (up to the ridge), then it can only be insulated up to the attic ceiling. This is only done to save money. Quality repairs include insulation of the entire roof.

When laying stone wool, the most successful option is when the width of the beams on the roof is equal to the width of the slab. In this case, they simply fit between them, attached to the stapler. Additional reliability will be provided by a lath crate or a rope net laid from below. All gaps formed are sealed with mounting foam, and the crate (if it is made of wood) is treated with an antiseptic. Stone wool wall slabs insulate perfectly.

The last layer is the vapor barrier. As a suitable material, many builders choose glassine - it is cheap and performs its functions perfectly. It is attached to the rafters with a stapler, it is desirable to glue the attachment points with adhesive tape.

Insulation of walls from the outside with stone wool

In the process of insulating a house, the question often arises: is it better to insulate walls from the outside or from the inside? In the direction of each option, there are both disadvantages and positive aspects. The first option is like this:

• High protection against cold, noise, sun and wind;
• Will not let the walls freeze, because. moisture is released. For the same reason, mold and fungus do not form on the structures;
• The area of ​​the room inside will not decrease;
• It becomes possible to choose any internal design, as well as, if necessary, change it.

Convinced of the merit this method, insulate the stone walls of the house. The traditional way of laying looks uncomplicated: the first insulating layer is medium-density mineral wool (75 kg / m³), ​​it closes the unevenness of the wall; the second layer is high-density wool (from 125 kg/m³), its role is to create a smooth and rigid wall surface, because this will facilitate the next finishing work.

In total, wool for wall insulation from the outside should be a layer of 15 cm or more. The best option is when the thermal insulation is between the load-bearing wall and the outer cladding.

In practice, it is possible to insulate a house with stone wool from the outside according to the following plan.

1. The first step is to prepare the surface. Rid the walls of irregularities, and apply a layer of plaster. Sometimes it makes sense to apply a couple of layers.
2. Next comes the installation of metal guides, they are fixed above the basement of the building using anchor bolts.
3. How to properly insulate a wall with mineral wool? The first layer of heat-insulating material is installed (immediately followed by the second). Glue is applied to the back of the plate, and it is pressed against the wall. According to the same scheme, all external wall insulation with stone wool takes place.
4. Help protect the material from deformation metal corners, which are attached to the outer slopes.
5. Placed on top of the layer facing brick, the seams are sealed with plaster.

We considered the first installation method, called a ventilated facade. You can insulate the walls with stone wool in the second way.

The second method is called "wet". The technology is only slightly different from the previous one. Stone wool: wall insulation:

Both of these methods insulate the house equally well.

After you have insulated the walls with stone wool from the outside, you need to take care of some important things.

The thermal insulation layer will increase the thickness of the walls by about 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to lengthen the slopes, ebbs and window sills so that the weather conditions do not spoil the material.

If you decide to lay not two layers of mineral wool, but more, then this is a bad idea. The more layers, the more air pockets between them. And they lead to a deterioration in thermal insulation properties.

Wall insulation from the inside with stone wool

Warming with stone wool from the inside is much faster and cheaper, and even novice builders can easily cope with this matter. However, work can only be done in a room where there is no high humidity. The advantages of wall insulation from the inside are as follows:

• Low cost and labor intensity.
• You can put insulation not only on the entire building, but also on individual rooms in which you will live. This is quite economical.
• It is permissible to work at any time of the year, regardless of weather conditions.

Insulation of the house with mineral wool can be started by calculating the required amount of mineral wool. There is a special formula for this. Wall area (m²) multiplied by the mineral wool thickness (mm) and divided by the package volume. That is, if the area is 15, the thickness is 100, the volume is 0.432, then you will need about three and a half packages.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with stone wool is carried out in several stages. General scheme An insulated wall may look something like this: first there is a load-bearing wall, followed by a layer of vapor barrier, then thermal insulation, and another vapor barrier layer, at the end there is an interior finish.

stone wool for internal walls suitable for medium density (look for indicators in the region of 100 kg / m³). Such mineral wool will increase the thickness of the wall by 8-10 cm. Keep this in mind when carrying out repairs. It is possible to insulate a small room with mineral wool in one day.

One of the methods for fulfilling the above plan occurs according to a relatively simple technology. Stone wool: installation:

1. A strong support is created from metal suspensions and profiles. Under it, you can put a foam-based tape to improve the thermal insulation in the room. If you plan to create two layers of mineral wool, then you will need another additional frame.
2. Then comes the vapor barrier. If polyethylene was chosen as the material, then a small air chamber should be left between the wall. It can be attached either with adhesive tape or with glue.
3. Stone wool insulation is placed inside each section in the frame.
4. Then again comes the layer of vapor barrier. This time it is better to fasten it directly to the metal profile with self-tapping screws.
5. Drywall is laid on top and the interior is finished.

Stone wool of internal walls, as well as wool of external ones, perfectly protects against unnecessary noise. This is especially useful in those houses that are located near roads.

Foundation insulation

Usually baths need insulation of the foundation, so we will first talk about them. Why is it necessary to insulate the foundation?

• Due to the difference in temperature inside and outside, condensation forms, spoiling the base of the bath. The heater also helps to cope with this problem.
• Thermal insulation will reduce the amount of wood needed for kindling.
• Stone wool can protect against some mechanical damage.

It is better to insulate with mineral wool on the outside of the plinth, because in this way the foundation will be better protected, and therefore will last longer. The installation technology shown below is suitable for a strip foundation. Warming with mineral wool:

1. Free the foundation from the earth. To do this, dig a trench with a depth of one and a half meters and a width of 50 cm.
2. After that, sand is laid, and the foundation is smeared with bitumen.
3. Then the heater is installed. Its thickness is at least 20 cm. Seal the formed seams with foam. At the corners of the bath, a layer of mineral wool is 1.5 thick. Working with stone wool is easy here.
4. Stone wool needs additional protection from a brick wall (thickness - from 25 cm), which is placed around the perimeter. At the top there will be a blind area.

A few rules and notes for quality work.

How to choose and apply glue on mineral wool

Without proper selection and use of glue, insulation can sag, ceasing to act effectively. Stone wool is a rather unusual material, and not every adhesive is capable of providing high-quality adhesion to the wall.

The highest adhesion will provide polymer-cement compositions. They are sold as a dry mix similar to cement. There are several well-known brands: "EK THERMEX", "ERESIT CT190", "ERESIT CT180".

Using the package directions, dilute the mixture with water and mix well (repeat the same after 5 minutes). The solution will retain its adhesive properties for 2 hours.

Apply the solution evenly on a flat surface of the wall so that 7-8 glue circles are obtained. On the back side of the cotton wool (closer to the edges) we also apply glue; the surface should be covered with the composition by more than half. It is also better to grease the joints. The glue hardens for some time, so it is possible to properly lay the slab. Attaching stone wool to a wall is easy.

Sometimes, for greater reliability, additional fastening may be required. Anchor bolts or slats fixed to the crate can help here.

Self-arrangement of thermal insulation of a wooden floor on logs requires the performer to have relevant knowledge and at least a little experience with elementary construction tools and related devices.

After reading the instructions below and performing all the necessary actions in accordance with its provisions, you will be able to equip a high-quality, reliable and durable thermal insulation system on your own, forgetting about drafts in the room and overpayments for heating.

The modern market offers a wide range of materials suitable for insulating a wooden floor on logs. You can find the properties of the most commonly used heaters in the following table.

Table. Popular heaters

Thermal insulation material	Basic properties
Sawdust	One of the most budgetary, and sometimes completely free thermal insulation material. It is characterized by good thermal insulation properties, helps to normalize the level of humidity inside the floor structure. The main disadvantage of sawdust is its poor resistance to various kinds of insects, fungi and other harmful microorganisms. In addition to this, the material supports combustion, which is also a big minus.
Mineral wool insulation	Materials based on mineral wool are characterized by high thermal insulation properties and do not support combustion. Along with this, the material does not tolerate contact with moisture - under the influence of water, it swells and loses its original performance characteristics. In the case of using mineral wool for insulation, waterproofing will need to be equipped on both sides of the material.
Expanded clay	Relatively inexpensive and easy to arrange material with good thermal insulation characteristics. For insulation, it is recommended to use granules different size- so the backfill will be more dense.
Styrofoam	One of the most popular heaters. It is sold at a relatively affordable cost, provides highly efficient insulation, is not afraid of contact with moisture, but supports combustion, releasing, at the same time, substances that are unsafe for human health. In addition, the foam plastic attracts rodents, "meetings" with which are not in the best way affect the life of the material.

The procedure for arranging a thermal insulation system

There are 2 main options for arranging the floor on logs: on the ground (in residential premises located on the first floors, in basements and various one-story buildings) and on the floor (usually on a concrete slab or screed, poured over any suitable base, most often used in rooms located above the ground floor and even in city apartments). You are invited to familiarize yourself with both options and choose the insulation method that is best suited specifically for your case. The procedure for arranging a thermal insulation system

Floor insulation on logs on the ground

We offer you instructions for arranging an insulated wooden floor from scratch. For owners of finished floors, the recommendations remain the same, you just need to exclude the relevant items from the manual.

First step . We equip support posts in increments of up to 200 cm. For the manufacture of supports, you can use concrete or brick. Choose the option of your choice - whichever is more convenient for you.

The height of the columns is selected individually, in accordance with the design height of the floor. We make the supports themselves so that their upper faces are strictly in the same horizontal plane. Otherwise, the logs will be laid with distortions, which will accordingly affect the evenness of the floor itself. To align the columns in height, we use cement mortar. If it is necessary to equip a mortar layer with a thickness of more than 30 mm, we put a reinforcing masonry mesh into the mixture, sinking it in cement. We cover the top of the supports with a layer of waterproofing material.

Second step. On top of the waterproofed supports, we lay wooden beams - logs. The installation step of the elements is selected taking into account their cross section and in accordance with the expected level of loads on the structure. In terms of the convenience of further laying the insulation boards, the most optimal is a 60-cm lag installation step.

As for the cross-section of the beams, for the specified installation step of the supports and the lag itself, with an average level of expected loads on the base, a beam with a section of 10x5 or 15x5 cm will suffice. If you wish, you can use a material with more impressive parameters, focusing on the specifics of your specific situation.

To fix the lag to the posts, we use suitable fasteners. Usually these are dowels and self-tapping screws, anchors, corners, etc. We must impregnate all wooden structural elements with an antiseptic agent, if this was not originally done in production.

Third step. We fasten the log to the bottom, laid on the supporting pillars, reinforcing the mesh of galvanized steel. If desired, it can be replaced with boards from 2 cm thick, nailed in a run - as you prefer. Recommendations for fasteners are standard: we use nails, screws, staples or other suitable products.

Fourth step. We fix a waterproofing windproof film with vapor-permeable properties, for example, isospan, over the boards / mesh and log. The material will prevent heat loss and the formation of dust, while not interfering with the evaporation of moisture from structural elements.

The film must be laid on top of the log, across in relation to them, and lowered on both sides of each beam until it stops in the grid / boards fixed below. As a result, a kind of trays will be formed between the lags. We attach the windproof film to both sides of each log using a stapler.

If you decide to use one of the modern thermal insulation materials equipped with a windproof bottom layer, there will be no need to lay the film.

Fifth step. In the cells between the lags, on top of the windproof film, we lay the selected insulation. For example, mineral wool is well suited.

We choose the thickness of the insulation in accordance with the climatic conditions at the location of the house, as well as the features of the operation of the building. For example, in regions with a cold harsh climate, especially if the foundation / basement of the house is not insulated, it is recommended to equip a 15-20 cm thermal insulation structure, sometimes even thicker. In regions with temperate climate provided that the foundation is insulated, the thickness of the thermal insulation is usually reduced to an average of 10 cm.

Experts recommend equipping two-layer insulation, laying the second ball across the first - this will eliminate cold bridges and increase the efficiency of the heat-insulating system. To equip the second layer of the structure, we fasten transverse bars with a thickness of 5 cm or more over the log.

Material group	Properties
Fibrous insulation	They are mainly made on the basis of mineral wool. They are characterized by high sound and heat insulation properties. They do not burn, but they do not tolerate contact with water. If wet, the material increases in volume and loses its original thermal insulation characteristics. The use of fibrous insulation is strictly contraindicated for rooms in which leakage is likely. In other rooms, such thermal insulation is subject to mandatory moisture protection on both sides.
Foam insulation	A typical representative is polystyrene. The material burns, has a relatively low strength and is sold at a relatively affordable cost. If the cost of insulation is a decisive factor, foam plastic can be preferred, but in this case it will be necessary to lay gypsum boards, chipboard or plywood sheets on top of the insulation in order to ensure effective distribution of point loads and maintain the integrity of the thermal insulation. An improved analogue of polystyrene is extruded polystyrene foam. This material does not burn. In addition, extruded polystyrene foam has a higher strength, which allows you to pour a concrete screed over it.
Sprayed heaters	Such materials are not particularly demanding on the cleanliness and evenness of the base. The main thing is that there are no greasy and other similar spots and large differences in height, otherwise the consumption of the sprayed insulator will increase. After applying such a heat-insulating material, a seamless, seamless coating with very high heat-insulating performance is formed on the surface. The only drawback is that when arranging many sprayed heaters, it becomes necessary to use special expensive equipment for application. In addition, the performer must have the skills to work with this kind of installations. Otherwise, it is not necessary to count on high quality thermal insulation.

Useful advice! To equip the upper crate, use bars 2-3 cm thick more than the thickness of the second heat-insulating layer. This will allow you to lay the waterproofing material with allowances on the rails and provide the most effective protection.

Sixth step. We lay another layer of waterproofing material on top of the insulation and the crate. Fastening is carried out with a construction stapler. We glue the joints with tape.

In conclusion, it remains for us to fix boards / sheets of plywood or other suitable material on top of the crate and lay the selected finish.

Insulation option using penofol

If you wish, you can replace the second layer of thermal insulation and vapor barrier with penofol - a modern insulation made on the basis of a foamed polymer and covered with a thin layer of aluminum foil. Other similar materials are also on the market, for example, isolon. Choose at your discretion.

The heat-insulating material is laid with the foil up, across in relation to the elements of the crate, with obligatory allowances on both sides of each rail.

We use a stapler to attach the penofol to the bars. We glue the joints with aluminized adhesive tape.

On top of the penofol, we attach the subfloor flooring to the bars of the crate. You can use boards, plywood and others suitable materials. The flooring elements are laid across in relation to the crate. Spacers are additionally fixed between the elements of the crate - the boards or other selected material will rest on them with its short side. As a result, the edges of each decking element must rest either on a spacer or on a batten.

Correct and incorrect arrangement of spacers

If desired, thermal insulation can be performed using foam or polystyrene foam boards, however, in the case of arranging wooden floors, experts recommend refraining from such a decision - such a heater will disrupt the processes of moisture and vapor exchange in the structure, which will not have the best effect on the service life of wood and its properties in general. In addition, mineral wool and other heaters based on it are characterized by higher elasticity, which contributes to an increase in the density of thermal insulation.

Name	Properties	Thermal conductivity	Where applicable
Izolon	Elastic material, light weight, waterproof and durable	0.040 W/mK	As a substrate for laminate and linoleum, mounted under warm floors
Penofol	Flexible, thin material, eco-friendly, waterproof	0.037-0.049 W/mK	Can be used as a vapor barrier for conventional thermal insulation materials
Isover	Non-flammable, dense heat-insulating material	0.041 W/mK	For insulation of concrete and wooden surfaces
Rockwool	Durable non-flammable material, resistant to deformation	0.39 W/mK	Insulation of floors on logs, heat and sound insulation of walls and ceilings
Foil Styrofoam	Temperature resistant, durable	0.037-0.041 W/mK	For insulation of a warm water floor, insulation of a floating screed

Insulation of a wooden floor on the floor

There is a technology that allows you to equip the thermal insulation of a wooden floor on logs not only on the ground, but also on top of the ceiling, which is usually a concrete slab. If the already used floor is insulated, the procedure will be as follows:

• the flooring is dismantled;
• all elements are removed until a “bare” base is obtained. In the presence of logs preserved in normal condition, you can't get rid of them. There is also no need to replace a high-quality screed without significant damage - it is enough to repair the flaws with the appropriate building compounds, for example, a cement-sand mixture;

  Floor insulation with polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam)

• subfloor flooring is installed;
• the chosen finishing covering keeps within.

Recommendations for the implementation of each stage are similar to the corresponding technological operations discussed in the instructions for floor insulation on logs, equipped on the ground. Follow the given sequence and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Insulation of a wooden floor on logs

When building a private house, special attention should be paid to the insulation of structures. Important elements that are directly exposed to cold air are the floors of the first floor with a cold basement, external walls, attic floors, and attic roofs. Mineral wool can be used as a universal type of insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool allows you to ensure a comfortable floor temperature and maintain heat in the room. Due to its incombustibility, the material can be used in both wood and stone construction without any concerns.

What is minvata

This insulation is a material of fibrous structure. The fibers are arranged in a chaotic manner. Each manufacturer has its own recipe. All components are melted at very high temperatures and then torn into fine fibers in a centrifuge. Further, with the help of heat treatment, mineral wool is made.

Types of mineral wool

For the construction of a house, mineral wool is produced in three types.

1. Glass. The material is made from broken glass.
2. Stone. This type can be called the most common. Most often you can find material from basalt fiber, but it is also made from other minerals. It is easier to insulate with stone wool compared to the other two.
3. Slag. It has the lowest thermal insulation characteristics and increased fragility. Not suitable for facade works and pipelines.

In addition to this classification, there is a division according to the form in which mineral wool is produced.

1. Rolled material - has a low rigidity, therefore, it is more used for warming the walls of a house or the floor along the logs.
2. Rigid mineral slabs or mats are excellent for use in insulating floors and attic roofs.

For floor insulation, it is preferable to use the second option, since hard mineral wool will ensure reliable operation of the floor under load.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

The positive qualities of mineral wool include:

• good thermal insulation;
• simple laying technology, in the construction of the mineral wool floor does not require special fastening;
• low degree of absorption of moisture from the environment;
• democratic price;
• resistance to high temperatures and open flame;
• human safety subject to technology;
• resistance to bacteria, mold and fungus.

Thanks to these qualities, mineral wool has become widespread in both wooden and stone construction.

But it is impossible not to say about its features and disadvantages, which include:

• need additional protection for workers: overalls, gloves, mask;
• it is necessary to provide protection of insulation from moisture, the technology includes vapor barrier and waterproofing;
• the ability to absorb water, the inability to use for wet rooms;
• a high degree of shrinkage in violation of the conditions of installation and operation;
• when laying in a wooden building between the logs, it is necessary to provide a gap between the insulation and the flooring structure of 3-5 cm.

If these features are not taken into account, insulation will become dangerous for a person, for example, the lack of overalls for workers will lead to particles of the material getting on the skin and lungs. This will cause irritation, itching, allergic reactions.

Application for floor insulation

Mineral wool boards are used as floor insulation in the house in the following cases:

• in the floor structure of the first floor in the presence of a cold basement or underground;
• in the construction of interfloor overlapping to increase sound insulation;
• in the design of the attic floor in the presence of a cold attic.

For an individual house, when laying in all cases, it is necessary that the technology be strictly observed, otherwise the insulation will not fulfill its function.

Warming technology

When laying the insulation, the technology must be strictly observed. The "pie" of insulation depends on the type of floor, so let's look at the instructions below.

Covering the first floor

In the presence of a cold basement or underground, insulation of the floor structure is required. Regardless of the building in which the work is carried out, wooden or stone, the layers are laid in the following order when installing mineral wool on top:

1. overlap;
2. waterproofing;
3. insulation;
4. vapor barrier;
5. clean floor.

In wooden housing construction, slab or roll material is laid between the joists in accordance with the order of the layers. It is possible to fix the material from below, this is more competent from the point of view of heat engineering, but very laborious.

Mineral wool insulation from below

Sound insulation of floors

As a protection against the spread of sound, mineral wool is placed in the floor pie in the following order:

1. overlap;
2. vapor barrier;
3. insulation;
4. waterproofing;
5. clean floor.

The event is especially effective in the construction of brick or concrete house, but in a wooden one, too, it will not become superfluous.

Note that in reinforced concrete ceilings, 3-5 cm of mineral wool under the screed is enough to dampen impact and airborne noise. And in wooden floors the layer of material should be at least 5-10 cm.

Attic floor insulation

If the building provides for a cold attic, it is necessary to protect the ceiling of the upper floor. In a wooden building, mineral wool is laid between the joists, in a stone building - both between the joists and under the cement screed.

Protection of the structure in this case is carried out to prevent excessive heat loss from the room to the cold attic room. The heated air accumulates under the ceiling and, in the absence of the necessary measures, freely enters the attic space, creating large heat losses for the house.

In this video, the technology of attic floor insulation is analyzed in detail:

Thickness calculation

AT individual house there are no requirements for thermal protection of structures, so the thickness of the insulation can be selected approximately. It depends on the climate of the territory, for most cases it will be enough to protect with mineral wool 100-150 mm thick.

To calculate a more accurate value, you can use the help of a specialist or a simple Teremok program. It can be found online for free.

Mineral wool is a modern heat-insulating material that, if used correctly, will last a long time and reliably protect building elements. The material is suitable for work with all types of floors from basement to attic.

Floor insulation with mineral wool wooden house- It is a responsible and rather complicated matter. The finished floor seems to the guests just beautifully laid boards, giving the room a special chic and nobility. And only the owner of the house knows what a complex structure lies under the even rows of wooden floor boards and how much work needs to be invested in order to insulate the floor with their own hands and lay out the screed.

Floor device

A properly laid floor in a wooden house is a multilayer structure that provides reliable waterproofing, protection from cold and overheating, insects and fungi, as well as providing strength and durability to the entire house. Also, in the correct design, a ventilation gap is needed to ensure air circulation. Depending on the floor of a wooden house, the floor arrangement may be different.

The floor on which the room is located, the degree of humidity, as well as the purpose of the entire structure also dictates its requirements for floors: the requirements for floors in a country house, for example, are not as strict as for a coating in a private country wooden house. The floor of the attic is also different from the floor of the first floor. The floor of the second floor is arranged differently than the floor of the first floor or attic. Most often, the floors are arranged in the form of a so-called pie, by analogy with the well-known puff pastry. One of the layers of the floor pie is the thermal insulation layer, along with wooden coverings, screed and insulation layers of other types.

materials

The floor insulation material is selected depending on the characteristics of the room (floor, purpose, humidity, floor material), as well as on the climatic conditions of the area in which the house is located.

The following materials are most often used as a heater:

• Expanded clay is a porous and lightweight material made from fired clay;
• Sawdust - woodworking waste. One of the cheapest materials. The cost of one m2 laid is almost worth nothing;
• Polyfoam - porous polymeric material, easy and moisture resistant material. In addition to thermal insulation properties - also excellent waterproofing;
• Penoplex - extruded polystyrene foam - is similar to polystyrene, but much more durable and is considered to be better in its properties, but has a higher price per m2;
• Mineral wool- mineral fiber mats;
• Glass wool - fiberglass mats, it is considered that its thermal insulation is not much worse than that of mineral wool, but better performance waterproofing.

All of these materials have their own advantages and disadvantages. For example, polystyrene, with all its heat and waterproofing properties, has a fairly high fire hazard. Expanded clay is an excellent insulation, but rather inconvenient to use and has poor moisture-proof properties, and also has a high cost per m 2. And all these materials are still better than simple sawdust, although their use increases the cost of each m2 of flooring.

In mid-latitudes, the most acceptable option is mineral wool. This material has long been familiar to everyone, has high heat-shielding and sound-proofing properties. In addition, and not least, the price of one m 2 of mineral wool and, especially, the prices for laying m 2 are among the lowest among all building materials. The material is so easy to use that even a non-specialist can lay it with their own hands.

Mineral wool is supplied in rolls or mats in certain sizes and thicknesses. Mineral wool laminated with aluminum is also produced. The price of such cotton wool per m 2 is higher than that of ordinary wool. However, the cost of laying one m 2 they do not differ. The thickness of this material varies from 50 mm to 200 mm or more, depending on the application. Unlike Styrofoam or Penoplek, mineral wool does not require pre-cutting in shape and size. The roll is simply unwound and the mineral wool is placed in the right place.

Sequencing

Mineral wool floor insulation is part of a multi-stage floor installation process, which is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• Alignment. The surface on which the floor will be laid must be perfectly flat;
• Vapor barrier - laying a layer of vapor barrier material;
• Installing guides- wooden lag;
• Insulation laying- filling each m2 of the floor with insulating material;
• Laying the flooring is the last, finishing layer of the pie.

Actually, this whole process is carried out in order to ensure reliable insulation and waterproofing of the room. Therefore, it makes no sense to consider laying mineral wool separately from the other stages.

alignment

Leveling is especially important when laying the floor of the first floor on the ground. There are also irregularities and cracks in the floor slabs. To eliminate irregularities in the first case, it is necessary to level the soil surface with a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick, on which it is necessary to fill in a layer of sand of the same thickness.

Should know. When laying the floor on reinforced concrete floor slabs, a leveling screed is usually used. The screed is usually used concrete or cement-sand. The absence of a screed can lead to the destruction of the entire floor due to unevenness and the uneven load associated with them on different parts of the floor surface. This circumstance makes it necessary to arrange a screed even in the attic.

vapor barrier

A layer of vapor barrier over the screed must be laid in the floors of the premises on the ground floor for every m2 of surface. This is necessary precisely when using mineral wool as a heater. Mineral wool easily dampens, which leads to a decrease in its thermal insulation properties. Also, when laying the topcoat, it is important to observe the ventilation between the mineral wool and the floor surface.

Roofing material can be used as a vapor barrier - it is better to use such material in the country, where the requirements for floors are mainly limited by the price of materials and all work is done by hand. Film waterproofing is used as modern and reliable materials for vapor barrier:

• polyethylene film, including aluminum coated;
• polypropylene film;
• vapor barrier membranes.

The most commonly used polyethylene, polypropylene or film coated with aluminum. This is due primarily to the price of the material. However, the efficiency of such a material is low, due to the possibility of accumulation of condensate on its surface. This can lead to wetting of the mineral wool and, consequently, to a decrease in its thermal insulation properties.

The most modern and reliable material is multi-layer vapor barrier membranes of great thickness, made using a more complex technology using many waterproofing materials. They are best used in country houses and cottages.

The vapor barrier layer is laid as evenly and densely as possible to the surface of ceilings and walls. In this case, there should not be any ventilation gap. Holes in the bottom layer of the vapor barrier will not lead to ventilation, but to the appearance of moisture on the insulation layer. This principle is preserved on all floors, including the attic.

Warming

Mineral wool is laid on the first layer of vapor barrier. The mineral wool roll is unwound and laid in such a way as to leave no ventilation gaps between the wool and the joists, and no ventilation gap between the wool and the first layer of vapor barrier to avoid moisture accumulation on the mineral fiber.

This prevents the fiber from getting wet and the mineral wool from losing its heat-insulating properties. The technology provides for the installation of special ventilation gaps between the insulation and the second layer of vapor barrier.

The thickness of the mineral wool sheet is selected depending on the purpose of the building and climatic conditions. So, in a country house used mainly only in the warm season, it is enough to use mineral wool 50 mm thick. The same applies to technical buildings and houses in the southern regions, where it is still impossible to do without insulation at all, despite the milder climate. The thickness of mineral wool sheets used on the second and third floors, in the attic or in the attic may also not exceed 5 cm. This is due to lower requirements for floor insulation on the floors, as well as the need to preserve the volume of the room.

Note. In private country houses, it is better to use cotton wool 200 mm thick. Cotton wool of this thickness will provide reliable thermal insulation.

After laying a layer of mineral wool, it is necessary to lay another layer of vapor barrier on top of it. This is especially important when arranging the floor in the attic of a house or cottage. However, here the laying technology will be somewhat different than in the first layer. To ensure ventilation in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture on the insulation layer, the technology provides for the installation of ventilation gaps - special holes between the sheets of the vapor barrier film through which air will pass and the moisture trapped under the vapor barrier will evaporate. Ventilation gaps are needed between all sheets of film or membrane.

Insulation of the room is a crucial stage during the repair. The most common is thermal insulation of floors. There are a large number of thermal insulation materials. Most often, for such purposes, builders use mineral wool.

Since floor insulation with mineral wool is a laborious process, it is necessary to study in detail each of its stages, to study the advantages and disadvantages of this insulation, the types and criteria for choosing one of them.

Many people before the procedure of thermal insulation of the floor are faced with the problem of choosing a heater. Most often the question arises: what is better to use expanded clay or mineral wool. In most cases, preference is given to a mineral coating, since the process of its installation is easy, you can handle it yourself without resorting to the help of outsiders.

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool floor insulation

The benefits are:

• This coating does not burn in fire. It can withstand temperatures up to a thousand degrees Celsius without losing its properties.

Mineral wool is resistant to high temperatures

• Mineral wool can act as a sound insulator.
• Mineral wool is a relatively inexpensive product for insulation.
• This material does not need to be replaced during the entire period of operation.
• Easy installation process.

Mineral wool, like any product for floor insulation, has disadvantages. One of them is good absorbency. For this reason, experts do not advise using mineral wool in a damp room, such as a bathroom. However, swelling of this coating can be avoided.

Before applying a layer of mineral wool on the floor surface, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier coating. It will not let in water or evaporation from below. Such a maneuver is most often carried out when laying mineral wool in the basement.

In order to avoid moisture getting on mineral wool, it is covered with a waterproofing coating on top. Water that will seep through the top layers will linger on the polyethylene and evaporate over time.

The disadvantage of using mineral wool in a suburban building for floor insulation is the appearance of mice and rats. In an apartment, there is practically no need to be afraid of the occurrence of such pests, since concrete walls protect residents from the invasion of these pests.

Rodents in insulation

Rock wool for rodents is excellent building material. Inside the pieces of mineral wool, mice and rats build holes and give birth to offspring, before which they carefully remove the unnecessary coating.

As a protection against rodents, you can impregnate mineral wool with boric acid or tobacco dust, lay layers of ash or dry mint. However, these methods are rational to use for a small room. To protect a suburban building when using mineral wool as a heater, you can enclose the basement of the structure with a metal mesh with small cells. So, it will be difficult for rodents to get into the room.

Ultrasonic weapons also help in the fight against such pests. It is used if the rodents have already attacked the house. Repellers are installed on the street along the perimeter of the building.

The disadvantages of using mineral wool for floor insulation are quite significant, but they can be easily eliminated if you prepare for the installation procedure in advance.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation with mineral wool

The technology for insulating a concrete or wooden floor is quite simple, so anyone can insulate a small room on their own.

Tools required for the installation of mineral wool

To carry it out, you will need the following tools:

• tape measure for accurate measurement;
• gloves (preferably rubber, since mineral wool hairs tend to cling to clothes and the body);
• construction stapler for fixing;
• a large clerical knife (this heat-insulating coating is quite thick);
• face protection: goggles and a respirator (as mentioned above, the mineral coating consists of hairs that crumble and cling to clothing during installation so that they do not get into the eyes and respiratory tract, it is necessary to protect these parts of the body);
• 6. screwdriver for installing guides and the outermost layer of the coating;
• 7. screws of various lengths;

Stages of floor insulation with mineral wool

The process consists of surface preparation and direct thermal insulation. For the correct installation work, it is necessary to divide the procedure into several stages and proceed with the implementation.

The procedure for installing mineral wool on the floor

The first step is to remove the old flooring. Almost any room, new or already inhabited, has some kind of floor covering. To carry out the warming procedure, it must be removed. If the flooring is new and it is planned to use it again, then dismantling should be carried out carefully and parts of the linoleum or laminate should be marked, for example, with chalk. This is necessary in order to subsequently put the parts in their places.

After removing the floor covering, it is necessary to remove debris, remaining dirt and dust from the rough base. Before starting installation work, the floor must be clean and “bare”.

The second step is leveling the surface. This process must be carried out in order for the mineral coating to adhere tightly to the floor surface. If even small pits remain between these layers, water can accumulate there, deform the coating, and eventually it will swell.

Often the floor is leveled with a screed. Today there are a large number various ways alignment. The choice of one of them depends on the budget and desires of the owner of the premises.

floor leveling process

In some cases, cracks in the concrete can be the cause of a cold floor. To do this, before carrying out the leveling procedure, you should carefully check the surface for cracks and splits, remove them and level the floor. Then you need to give the surface a few days to dry completely.

The third stage of the mineral wool installation process is the installation of a vapor barrier material. After the alignment procedure, you can proceed to the next step. It represents a failure to apply a polyethylene coating to the floor. It protects against moisture and various kinds of fumes. Laying of vapor barrier material occurs with an overlap on the walls, taking into account the height of the guides and mineral wool.

There are many materials for the implementation of vapor barrier. The choice of one of them depends on the characteristics of the premises, the scale, preferences and budgets of the owner of the home. For this reason, before buying this material, it is advisable to consult a specialist. He will select a vapor barrier material for individual requests that will serve the owner for eternity.

The fourth stage is the installation of guides. After laying the vapor barrier layer, it is necessary to install guides. The distance between the lags depends on the scale of the room and the size of the mineral wool. The gaps should be even, so before starting the procedure, everything must be carefully calculated. It is not recommended to take steps more than one meter.

Important! great attention should pay attention to fixing the lag. They should not swing, move away from the floor. You should also avoid gaps between the rails and the walls.

Installation of a heat-insulating floor covering along the logs facilitates the work. So the mineral wool can be laid more tightly, evenly and quickly.

Stage five - laying mineral wool. After installing and securely fastening the lags, you can start laying mineral wool. First, you should cut this coating according to the dimensions of the distances between the guides. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps between the piece of mineral wool and the lags. To do this, cut the mineral coating a centimeter wider than the distance between the beams.

Mineral wool can be laid in one or two layers, if the height of the room allows this action. The second layer of heat-insulating coating should be placed on top so that the joints of the first are approximately in the middle of one piece of mineral wool. This method of laying will help the owner of the room to eliminate the occurrence of leaks between the joints of the beams and pieces of insulation.

Laying mineral wool between lags

Stage six - laying waterproofing. Since one of the disadvantages of mineral wool is rapid absorption, after laying this insulation it is necessary to protect it from moisture from above. To do this, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the mineral wool. It is a kind of vapor barrier layer, consists of dense polyethylene. The choice of waterproofing coating also depends on the preferences of the owner, the characteristics of the room and the top coating.

The seventh stage is the final one. The process of floor insulation in the house with mineral wool ends with the flooring of the final floor. This coating is attached to the lags. It must be strong enough so that the load on the heat-insulating layer is distributed evenly, and it does not sag at the installation sites of heavy furniture sets.

As such a material, you can use fiberboard, dense drywall, chipboard, any dense boards. Their fixation on the surface occurs with the help of special fasteners or screws.

After carrying out all the stages, the process of installing mineral wool can be considered completed. After it, the flooring is laid: linoleum, laminate, parquet, tiles.

Finished flooring process

How to choose mineral wool for warming a wooden or concrete floor

Today there are a large number of varieties of mineral wool. They differ in composition, thickness and properties. All of them can be divided into three groups.

Glass wool is made up of molten glass waste and silicon particles. The particles of this material (hairs) are the longest. Sometimes their size reaches three millimeters. Due to this structure, mineral wool of this type has the following features:

• The fibers adhere tightly, which gives the pieces of mineral wool a special density, for this reason, the consumption of raw materials for its manufacture is minimal. Therefore, the price is low. It is used as a heater quite often.
• The second feature is a disadvantage of this type. Since the hairs of glass mineral wool are small pointed sticks, it becomes difficult to work with this material. Particles cling to the clothes and body of the installer, and also enter the eyes and respiratory tract. To prevent such situations, you should work with this material in a respirator, goggles and a protective suit.

Glass mineral wool

The next type is stone wool. The main raw material for its manufacture is basalt. The technology for the production of such heaters is simple, since the composition includes a minimum amount of substances. Particles of this insulation reach a size of up to one and a half millimeters.

Since it has a more rigid grip, it is better to use it for warming vertical surfaces. Due to this feature, stone wool is used for temporary installation.

Stone wool fibers do not take on a pointed shape, which greatly simplifies the installation procedure. Particles have less tenacity, however, it is necessary to use protective equipment in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

The third type is slag. It consists of blast furnace slag. Its particles are the smallest in comparison with other varieties of mineral wool. From a technological point of view, the production of this material is difficult, which is reflected in the price.

Slag mineral wool

Slag wool has a minimum rigidity, therefore it is used mainly for floor insulation. It is difficult to cut, therefore it is used for large-scale insulation, where this process is carried out using special machinery. During installation, it is recommended to use protective equipment.