If the hydrangea does not grow. Hydrangea does not bloom, what to do

It often happens that a gardener buys a flowering hydrangea in a container, plants it in the ground - and it dries out, the flowers wither. Or after wintering, the hydrangea does not bloom - neither in the first, nor in the second, nor in the third year. Why is the hydrangea not blooming? How can you help the plant? Let's figure it out.

Why hydrangea does not bloom: typical mistakes of gardeners

Most of all, there are problems with large-leaved hydrangea (garden, marcophila, large-leaved), since not all varieties of this delicate plant are adapted to our conditions. Large-leaved hydrangea will be discussed.

Freezing buds on hydrangeas

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the current year, the buds are laid on the tops of the shoots in the fall. If you cover the hydrangea too late, or open it too early, the buds will freeze and the hydrangea will not bloom. What can (and should) be done? Cover hydrangea for the winter. The leaves remaining on the bush are cut off, the bush itself is pulled together with a tourniquet, wrapped with covering material and film. Mulch is poured around the bush - dry leaves, straw. With the advent of frost, the hydrangea is bent to the ground, fixed with staples, covered with spruce branches. In the spring, the hydrangea is opened gradually, finally ridding it of shelter with the departure of night frosts, that is, until the beginning of summer.

Incorrect hydrangea pruning

If you cut off shoots in spring or autumn large-leaved hydrangea, is it any wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom. We remind you once again - hydrangea blooms on the shoots of last year, in the upper part of the shoots.

Incorrect feeding of hydrangeas

If the hydrangea is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, the plant may not have time to become stiff by the arrival of frost, and, again, will not survive the winter. Therefore, to feed hydrangeas, like most garden plants, remember one simple rule: in late spring and early summer we apply nitrogen fertilizers (for green growth), in summer - potassium-phosphorus top dressing (to maintain flowering), at the end of summer - phosphorus fertilizers (to help hydrangeas overwinter, preserving shoot buds for flowering next year).

Problems with growth and acclimatization of the root system

First of all, this is the problem of large-leaved hydrangeas, which were planted from containers in open ground. It often turns out that the sellers of hydrangeas, in order to give violent flowering, feed the plant with top dressing, organizing drip irrigation. Such a hydrangea has a poorly developed root system - it was not used to getting its own food with its roots, but got everything prepared with fertilizers, and on special soil. And when you plant it in your garden, a spoiled plant is not able to absorb nutrients, and withers before our eyes. Without emergency measures, such a hydrangea will not only not bloom - it may even disappear altogether.

What to do in this case? Correct the "disservice" of sellers and gradually wean the hydrangea from bait. Firstly, container flowering hydrangeas do not need to be cut off the roots, as is often advised, they do not need to be soaked or shake off the substrate. The plant already spends a lot of energy on flowering, and under such conditions, the development of the hydrangea root system will no longer be extended. Wither away.

Secondly, for the first two months, still feed, gradually reducing the dose.

Thirdly, when preparing the hydrangea planting hole, make sure that the place will be shaded at noon, otherwise the garden hydrangea may not withstand the heat, and even heavy watering will not help. In the pit, you need to add a mixture of soil from your garden with a nutrient substrate from a container of hydrangeas, and in an area of ​​\u200b\u200bat least 20 cm from the hydrangea roots. Thus, you will help the hydrangea adapt to new conditions.

Hydrangea variety is not suitable for climatic conditions

Large-leaved hydrangeas have recently begun to be planted in open ground in our area, new varieties appear all the time, which are praised and convinced that there are no problems with care. And then buyers, especially from the northern regions of the country, cannot understand why the hydrangea does not bloom. It is sad, but even if all agrotechnical practices are followed, greenhouse hydrangea seedlings do not always have time to lay buds for the next year during the warm season (if the summer is short). As a result, we get a chic green bush, but the hydrangea does not bloom.

Don't rush the hydrangea - let it develop a strong root system that could feed the color. In paniculate hydrangeas, this period takes about 6 years. In addition, hydrangea can bloom simply because of insufficient watering, an unfortunate place, heavy soils, diseases and pests. Just carefully study the rules for caring for hydrangeas, choose a non-capricious variety (if you are a beginner) - and you will definitely succeed!

- a beautiful, but capricious flower that does not always live up to the expectations of flower growers, and does not always bloom in response to caring care. What is the reason for this phenomenon, why does indoor or garden hydrangea refuse to bloom, and what should be done to correct the situation? There are many answers to these questions, let's look at them together.

The right choice when buying

When buying a room or garden hydrangea, you should pay attention to whether there are buds on the stems. If the answer is positive, then the sellers watered the hydrangeas with flowering stimulants, forcing them to bloom to give them a “presentation”. A young plant has already spent a lot of energy on the formation of buds, and after transplantation it may not bloom for two years, or it will not take root at all in a new place. What to do in this case? Transplant the bush into another pot or into open ground along with a clod of earth so that it adapts better in a new place. And after a period of adaptation, start feeding it with mineral fertilizers.

To answer the question: why the hydrangea does not bloom, you need to know what kind of plant you are buying. Some types of hydrangeas cannot bloom at a young age, or bloom poorly because they have not yet accumulated enough useful substances for beautiful and lush flowering. After all, the inflorescences of most hydrangeas are large, the bush spends a lot of energy on them.

Such types of hydrangeas as garden large-leaved, tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas do not immediately bloom. The first 1-2 years after planting, they spend on the development of the root system, then the aerial part is strengthened, if both stages are successful, the plant will begin to bloom only in the third year.

And yet - for planting in open ground, choose zoned hydrangea varieties. If the summer in your area is too short, flower buds will not have time to form, and there will be no flowering.

Effect of pruning on flowering

Incorrect pruning is another factor that has a significant impact on the flowering of a garden or indoor hydrangea. In order not to wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom, it is necessary to cut it correctly. Moreover, the concept of "correct" for each type of hydrangea is individual.

So, in spring and autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut off so that they do not break under the weight of snow. If the hydrangea did not bloom in the summer, then it does not need to be cut at all.

In the spring, paniculate hydrangea is pruned before bud break, if you miss the pruning time, the development of the plant will be suspended so much that it will not bloom this season. When pruning, weak and small shoots are removed, as well as shoots frozen in severe frosts. Annual shoots are cut so that 3-4 pairs of buds remain on them.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms only on last year's shoots, more precisely, on young branches grown on last year's shoots. And if you remove last year's shoots when pruning, there will be no flowering. Pruning of large-leaved hydrangeas is carried out only to remove damaged stems and last year's inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea blooms on young shoots this year. Its pruning consists in shortening too long young branches, due to which the bush becomes more branched and blooms more abundantly.

From this we can conclude: in order for the hydrangea to bloom, its pruning is carried out taking into account its species characteristics, otherwise you may never see it bloom at all. We must not forget that the hydrangea growing in wild nature, blooms without any pruning, so at home you should not get too carried away with this operation.

Proper wintering

To protect the hydrangea from severe frosts, in the fall they begin to prepare it for winter. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, and where the temperature drops below 25 degrees in winter, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.

Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to make a box - branches are laid in it. In order not to bend them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground, and branches are laid on this pillow. From above, the box is also boarded up with boards; after a heavy snowfall, it is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, with the onset of heat, the entire structure is removed, the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the case of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofiber - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze slightly, the plant will not bloom this year.

The whims of a home flower

Sometimes indoor hydrangea does not bloom, growing in favorable conditions. What is the reason, and what to do in this case? Let's start from afar - in the fall, indoor hydrangea can completely shed its leaves and retire. At this time, it is taken out to a dark, cool room, watering is reduced, spending them only so that the roots do not dry out and with the beginning of spring the plant begins to grow and bloom again.

At the end of winter, room hydrangea is taken out to a bright and warm room, they begin to water and feed well. In this case, you should not put a flower pot under the direct rays of the sun - hydrangea prefers coolness and diffused light. If the room temperature is too high, they try to create special conditions- they clean it away from the window and heating appliances, often ventilate the room without exposing the flower to drafts. Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, this feature must also be taken into account.

Soon, new shoots will begin to grow from the roots, on which inflorescences will also form. If there are too many shoots, some of them are removed, leaving 3-4 of the strongest and largest. The remaining stems are fed with mineral fertilizers. A good fertilizer for hydrangeas is sleeping coffee, which is scattered on the surface of the soil in a pot.

Every 3-4 years, the hydrangea is transplanted to a new place, for this they make a soil mixture with an acidic reaction from peat, needles, leaf and sod land. You can use ready-made soil for azaleas by adding a little needles to it.

Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden plants, the flowers of which can be of many shades. There are different varieties of hydrangeas, but they all have rather large inflorescences, consisting of many small fruit-bearing and several large sterile flowers. Hydrangea begins to bloom at the age of five, but sometimes mature plant does not bloom. There may be several reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden.

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    Reasons for the absence of flowers

    The main thing when buying a hydrangea is to choose right sort, which in the climate of the region will be able to take root and survive the winter cold. If the variety is chosen correctly, the lack of flowers can be caused by one of the following factors:

    • Unsuitable climate - hydrangea is quite a heat-loving plant, transplanting into new conditions can be stressful. In an unfamiliar climate, generative buds will not develop. Before buying a flower, you need to find out in what conditions it grew.
    • Insufficiency of the root system: in young hydrangeas, the roots are quite fragile and weak; after transplantation, such plants may not bloom for two to five years.
    • Young plants do not give flowers; for flowering, the age of hydrangeas should begin at 5 years.
    • Incorrect pruning - with an annual incorrect pruning, there will be no flowers, or there will be very few of them.
    • Cold - for the winter, the plant must be covered, acting carefully and carefully. If it is not enough to cover the hydrangea, the shoots will freeze; if it is done too tightly, there is a risk of damaging the branches.
    • Inappropriate feeding - may be one of the reasons why the flowers do not bloom.
    • Poor soil - the plant is quite demanding on the quality of fertilizers and the soil on which it grows.
    • Artificial stimulation of flowering - if before the sale the flower was drip-fed with fertilizers to simulate a lush flowering appearance, next year there may not be any flowers at all. In order for the bush to start producing flowers, it needs proper care.

    How to help the plant bloom?

    Before buying, you need to ask the seller under what conditions the hydrangea was grown - in a greenhouse or on open ground. A greenhouse flower will need a long time to acclimatize, so you should not wait for flowers right away.

    In order to speed up the process of the flower getting used to the new soil, when transplanting, it is recommended to leave a coma of the soil in which the hydrangea originally grew on the roots.

    In the first two months, fertilizers are applied on average once every two weeks. It is better to choose a top dressing specialized for hydrangeas, but fertilizer for azaleas and heather is suitable. A plant that was watered drip with the addition of fertilizers will not be able to feed on its own in the open field - such a flower is weaned from an excess of complementary foods gradually, over a year or two.

    Landing Rules

    Hydrangeas should be planted in early spring, after the snow has melted, but before buds appear on garden trees.

    Holes for a bush are best done about half a meter in diameter and about the same depth. When planting, the roots are trimmed a little, in young plants this is not required.

    In the center of the planting hole, it is necessary to make a small earthen mound and evenly distribute the root system along the slopes. The earth is compacted tightly, and then watered abundantly.

    Soil mulching is done in the spring before flowering and in the fall, before the plant is hidden for the winter. The layer of mulched soil should be about 8 cm thick. For broad-leaved and paniculate hydrangeas, it is better to choose loamy soil, with the addition of peat.

    pruning

    In hydrangeas, flowers are located on the shoots of last year, which is why, if pruned annually, the hydrangea does not bloom. Although the hydrangea grows quickly, inflorescences are formed only on healthy and strong shoots. In the spring, you can prune dried and frozen branches, but you can not do this in early spring.

    The best time for hygienic pruning is mid-April and early May.

    You need to remove only dried and non-viable shoots. You can also thin out the shrub by removing weakened zero shoots. When pruning more than two or three mature buds from one branch, there may not be flowering.

    Before the onset of cold weather, it is better to cut off all the inflorescences, but all viable buds must be left.

    Proper bait

    You can not overfeed hydrangea flowers with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise it will freeze in winter and die. For hydrangeas, fertilizers must be applied in the following sequence:

    • In early spring - nitrogenous fertilizers, for more lush flowering;
    • In summer - potash, so that the plant does not dry out and retains flowers and shoots;
    • In autumn - phosphates, to develop frost resistance and successful wintering.

    Young hydrangeas may also need aluminum salts. Well suited for hydrangeas are ammonium sulfate, fertilizers with super-phosphate, as well as specially designed fertilizers with all the trace elements necessary for a flower.

    Shelter from the cold

    Starting from the end of September, you will need to wrap the hydrangea with a film for greenhouses or lutrasil in two layers.

    You can hide the plant for the winter, starting from mid-October. Before covering the plant, you need to cut off all the inflorescences, while leaving the kidneys. Plants under five years old are immediately covered with earth or peat, but old thick bushes can be broken in this way.

    In order for the hydrangea not to suffer, it is necessary to build a litter of stones, branches, leaves and coniferous branches, and carefully lay the plant on it so that the stem and shoots do not suffer, fix it with ropes, and make an earth mound on top. In the spring, it is necessary to remove the mound, but until the end of May, in case of night frosts, it is necessary to cover the hydrangea with lutrasil or film. This is especially important for young plants - this will help maintain more shoots and viable buds.

    Watering Requirements

    Hydrangeas are moisture-loving, but different varieties different requirements to lighting: some species need to be planted in shaded places, while others, on the contrary, in the sun. One of the most capricious species are broad-leaved varieties - they require a lot of moisture, and grow mainly in places with good lighting. It is necessary to maintain a balance between lighting and plant moisture.

    For irrigation, water with a slightly acidic environment is needed, tap water is not suitable, as it will shift the balance to the alkaline side, which will harm the plants. You can water with rainwater, or defend tap water for several days. If watering is needed urgently, you can boil the required volume of liquid in an open container - this will help evaporate impurities harmful to plants and eliminate excess water hardness.

    To preserve the acidity of the soil, you can add a small amount of citric acid, kefir or a weak acetic solution to the liquid during irrigation.

    In the hot season, you need to water the plant quite often and plentifully, about 20 liters per adult plant, but you can not create an excess of moisture - otherwise the root system will rot. In rainy summers, the frequency of watering decreases several times.

    You can judge the acidity of the soil by changing the color of hydrangeas: in acidic soil, the flowers have a bluish tint, in neutral soils, white or orange, and when the soil is leached, they become pink or lilac.

    Reproduction methods

    Hydrangea is best propagated by cuttings in early July and until its middle, it is best to take cuttings from young plants. You need to choose shoots without visible diseases, not withered, with large buds. You need to cut the cuttings in the morning to protect them from drying out, it is better to do this from the sides of the plant.

    Tops with buds must be cut off, cut off the lower leaves and kept for several days in a solution that stimulates growth. You can make a solution yourself by adding a small amount of honey to the water.

    After the formation of callus, the shoots are planted in a richly moistened mixture of sand and peat, made in the ratio of one part of sand to two parts of peat. It is advisable to water the cuttings daily, as well as spray the leaves. In suitable conditions, the shoots will take root within a month.

    It is impossible to propagate hydrangea seeds in open ground - it is necessary to grow a plant in a pot for the first two years, and then transplant it into garden soil with all precautions. Experienced gardeners can try to plant offspring, propagate by layering or divide the bush into several parts.

    Variety selection

    In order for the plant to show itself in all its glory, you need to choose a frost-resistant variety that will not die after wintering:

    • One of these frost-resistant flowers is paniculate hydrangea, in conditions middle lane This shrub grows up to two meters. Its inflorescences are shaped like lilac inflorescences. The variety prefers slightly acidic or clay soils.
    • Hydrangea tree - a plant with a height of one and a half to two and a half meters, one of the most cold-resistant species. In warm winters, it does not need to be covered, and in general it requires less care than other hydrangeas.
    • Large-leaved hydrangea requires a lot of attention, and does not tolerate cold weather. It can bloom both on last year's shoots and on those that have grown this year.
    • In addition to flowers, the oak-leaved hydrangea is distinguished by very beautiful curly leaves. It does not tolerate cold and can only grow in greenhouses or in the southern part of the country.

    Before buying, you should pay attention to the presence of buds: if they are, the plant was artificially fed, and it will be more difficult to take root. If you properly care for the plant and provide it with the necessary amount of moisture and fertilizer, it will be able to please with lush inflorescences and a variety of colors.

    Hello dear readers! Hydrangea is unusually beautiful in bloom. Her delicate lace flower caps look spectacular in any garden. Hydrangea is magnificent as a single planted bush on the lawn, and as a hedge, screen, planting along the fence. Despite the unpretentious disposition of hydrangeas,Not all gardeners succeed in achieving lush flowering. Why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden, but gives only foliage - let's try to understand this issue without missing a single important point.

    To achieve lush flowering from your garden pet, you need to know the features of the care and preferences of garden hydrangea in irrigation, soil characteristics, pruning features, fertilizers, planting sites and plant varieties. But everything is not as difficult as it seems, even a novice gardener can handle it.

    What to do to make hydrangea bloom

    Hydrangea variety

    So, do you know your hydrangea variety? Now about 70 species and varieties of hydrangeas are known. There are species not only in the form we are used to in the form of shrubs, but also in the form of small trees, lianas, both evergreen and deciduous. There are a lot of varieties of hydrangeas in stores, but not all of them are suitable for our climate, despite the assurances of sellers. It's just that some types of hydrangeas do not have time to bloom in our short summer season. Perhaps you purchased just such a variety of hydrangea?

    In our climatic conditions, only a small part of the variety of hydrangea varieties that exists in the world can bloom. This is mainly tree hydrangea (H. arborescens L.), paniculate (Hydrangea paniculata Sieb), ground cover (H. heteromalla Dipp). When choosing a hydrangea for your garden, give preference to proven and unpretentious varieties of this amazing plant.

    If you are a beginner gardener, then opt for the variety "Grandiflora" (Grandiflora). This is an old proven variety of hydrangea, exactly the one that grows in my grandmother's garden. The hydrangea of ​​the Grandiflora variety is unpretentious, frost-resistant, and has been living in our gardens since ancient times, but is in no way inferior in beauty to modern varieties. There are paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas of the Grandiflora variety.


    If you want bright colors in the garden, then pay attention to varieties that blush early. They are also unpretentious in care and feel great in our climate: "Pink Diamond" or otherwise "Pinky Winky", "Vanille Fraise", pistachio green colors "Lime Light" (Lime Light).


    Age of Hydrangea

    In order for the Hydrangea to grow in lush color, its root system must form and strengthen. Seedlings younger than two years old do not have such a developed root system, it is only being formed, therefore, in the first years of life, the hydrangea is unlikely to bloom. In some species of panicled hydrangea, flowering does not occur until the bush reaches the age of six years.

    Place for planting hydrangeas

    One of the important conditions for flowering hydrangeas is the landing site. Hydrangeas love light partial shade or diffused sunlight. Not all types of hydrangeas tolerate the direct rays of the scorching daytime sun, however, more unpretentious species (paniculate and treelike) feel fine in the sun, but subject to sufficient watering in the heat. The part of the site where the morning rays of the sun fall will be the best place for hydrangeas.

    Hydrangea almost does not bloom under the crowns of trees, especially if they drown it out. Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant, not for nothing that its Latin name "Hydrangea" is translated as "a vessel with water", so you should not plant it next to large trees, shrubs, which will take most of the moisture from the ground. Do not plant hydrangea near the house under the slope of the roof. Falling snow from the roof in winter can break branches with buds, and in the next summer season you may not wait for flowering.

    Watering Hydrangeas

    In order for the hydrangea to bloom, and not only give foliage, it must be watered regularly. During the hot and dry season at least twice a week. It is better to use rainwater for hydrangeas, if it is not possible to collect rainwater, then use any other water, after insisting it for at least five days. Single watering a hydrangea bush - a bucket or a half.

    soil for hydrangea

    Asking the question: Why does the hydrangea not bloom in the garden, but gives only foliage - pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. Hydrangea will bloom if the soil is well moistened, loose and fertilized. For most varieties of hydrangea, the soil should be slightly acidic, and for blue varieties of large-leaved hydrangea, acidic. So if your soil is alkaline or neutral, then hydrangea is unlikely to bloom in such conditions. Change the acidity of the soil, and the hydrangea is sure to bloom.

    One of the proven ways to oxidize the soil for hydrangeas is to water the bush with an electrolyte solution (diluted sulphuric acid) used in car batteries, and water, in the proportion of one liter of water to one ml of electrolyte.

    Hydrangea not blooming- maybe the reason is wrong soil fertilization.

    The introduction of nitrogen fertilizers into the soil stimulates the growth of Hydrangea foliage, and potassium-phosphorus positively affects the abundant flowering of the bush. But this does not mean that nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied at all, they should be applied only in the spring, for the development of the crown of the bush, and in the summer we apply potassium-phosphorus to maintain abundant flowering. In the fall, we fertilize with phosphorus fertilizer to help the hydrangeas overwinter and preserve the buds.

    Hydrangea does not bloom due to heavy pruning of the bush

    This is one of the common reasons for the absence of flowers on hydrangeas. If you cut off all the hydrangea branches before winter, then it definitely will not bloom next year, but all because the buds that will bloom after winter are formed in the fall, they must overwinter, and wake up next season.

    limit yourself autumn pruning only dry branches without foliage, weak and thin shoots, cut off the branches that grow inside the bush, we still don’t need them. Buds form at the tops of the branches, so do not shorten the branches of the hydrangea. If our goal is the abundant flowering of the hydrangea, then it is necessary to ensure that its buds overwinter well, and shoot with abundant flowering next year, so we need to take care of sheltering the hydrangea for the winter.

    Hydrangea does not bloom due to freezing of the kidneys

    Most unpretentious types of hydrangea tolerate frosts normally, but recently winters have been snowy, so in order to keep the buds until spring, it is better to close the hydrangea for the winter and the sooner you start doing this, the better, from mid-September just right. In dry weather, flexible hydrangea branches are bent to the ground, you can fix the branches with braces. Stiff branches with strong pinning to the ground can break off, you can put stones, bricks, a layer of spruce branches under them.

    Then cover the bush with woven covering material. Good ventilation must be maintained under the shelter, so polyethylene cannot be used. From above, the material is covered with a layer of peat or earth of 10-20 cm and everything is covered with spruce branches (spruce branches). You can open the hydrangea when the frosts finally recede and the sharp spring temperature drops end. Such a shelter will protect the buds from freezing and next year you will get earlier and lush flowering.

    These are, in principle, the main reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden, after the elimination of which your garden pet should definitely bloom. Another tip, when you buy a hydrangea, make sure that it is not greenhouse, such seedlings do not take root very well in open ground. When choosing a hydrangea in a store, we are attracted to profusely flowering specimens, but this is not an indicator of the health of the plant. Most likely, drip irrigation and a large amount of fertilizer were used for the lush flowering of seedlings, which interfered with the development of the root system. It is better to refuse to buy such a hydrangea, and give preference to a non-flowering specimen.


    It blooms for me, but the flowers are frail and small, and the shoots are too thin. After correcting the mistakes, I had one huge flower in the form of a lace cap. My hydrangea grows under a plum tree and its crown strongly suppressed my bush, I had to prune overgrown plum branches. I began to acidify the soil, cut off all the weeds under the bush and increased the frequency of watering. Haven't applied fertilizer yet. Many new buds appeared at the tops of the shoots. Next year I will transplant the hydrangea to a more suitable place for it. Now I don’t have a question: Why doesn’t the hydrangea bloom in the garden, but gives only foliage? Good luck with your gardening!

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    The heat-loving perennial shrub hydrangea is native to Japan and first bloomed in the 18th century. Initially, the plant was only indoor, but the experts "relocated" the hydrangea to the open ground. Hydrangea is known as a frost-resistant plant that will delight the eye in a flower bed in a temperate climate for many years.

    Varieties of flowering hydrangea

    Today, many different varieties and types of flowering hydrangeas are available:

    1. Oakleaf. Brought to temperate latitudes from North America, the dignity of the species in frost resistance - the plant can withstand temperatures down to -29 degrees. Among the popular varieties are Tennessee Clone, Applause (Applause), Little Honey and many others, which are characterized by lobed leaves (oak) up to 24 cm in length and large flowers up to 3 cm in diameter.
    2. Serrated. Low growing perennial shrub. Varieties: "BlueBird", "Golden Sunlight" (Golden Sunlight), "Veerle". Spreading plant with serrated leaves and inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter. hallmark variety is the color of the flowers - a bright, rich blue hue.
    3. Chereshkovaya. The plant is a deciduous vine with aerial roots, the total length of the hydrangea can reach 25 meters with proper care. This type of blooming hydrangea is used by florists to decorate arches and pergolas. The plant variety is distinguished by a wide variety of flowering in color and shape, but the main feature is the spicy aroma. Often such a hydrangea is called curly or climbing.
    4. Garden large-leaved. Another name is broad-leaved, large-leaved. decorative look blooming hydrangea for planting in open ground, at least 130 cm high and with straight ovate leaves, as well as spherical inflorescences. The flowers are large, up to 3 cm, usually pink. The shoots of the current year are herbaceous and green, becoming woody the next year. The most common flowering varieties are 'Forever & Ever', 'Romance', 'Red Sensation' and many others.
    5. . The name of the crop is directly related to the shape of the flowers, which are associated with a panicle and reach a length of 20-25 cm. This is a bush up to 2.5 meters high, which tolerates low winter temperatures and has a dense crown. Varieties: Vanilla Fraze, Diamond Rouge, Limelight.
    6. treelike. The peculiarity of the plant is high tolerance to cold weather and strong, abundant flowering. The tree-like variety is a tall shrub, up to 160 cm with oblong leaves and small flowers in the inflorescence. Often the flowers of this species are called white spray hydrangea. This type of flowering culture is represented by such popular varieties as "Grandiflora", "Pink Annabelle" (Pink Annabelle).

    When and how much do hydrangeas bloom?

    It has the following properties:

    • Allows increase yield by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
    • You can get good harvest even on low-fertility soils and in adverse climatic conditions
    • Absolutely safe

    Features of flowering hydrangea

    Blooming hydrangea was named after the sister of the Prince of the Holy Roman Empire, Karl Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen, Princess Hortensia. The literal translation of the name is “a vessel for water”, which means that in order to get abundant flowering, it cannot be left without life-giving moisture.

    If the hydrangea is planted in early spring with high-quality soil fertilizer, the bush can please with several inflorescences by the middle of summer.

    What year after planting the hydrangea will bloom depends on the region.

    On average, the plant will bloom 3 years after planting, it is worth considering that the hydrangea does not bloom on the 2nd and 4th year of planting.

    The culture tolerates light shade and partial shade.

    Why is the hydrangea not blooming?

    If improperly looked after, it often happens that the shrub does not bloom.

    To succeed, you need to find the causes and eliminate them:

    1. Improper soil fertilization, namely, the excessive use of potassium-phosphate elements will lead to oversaturation of the soil. must be applied to the soil during spring, summer and autumn, in winter time use is strictly prohibited.
    2. Too much pruning hydrangea crowns will lead to the fact that the inflorescences will have nothing to develop on. In the spring, only dry branches and those growing inside the bush can be cut, so as not to interfere with the formation of the crown.
    3. Careless Care before winter will lead to freezing of the last year's shoots, so it is important to take care of the high-quality shelter of the crown of the bush for the winter. It is worth cleaning up woven dense material after frosts and a decline in spring temperature changes.
    4. Hydrangea does not bloom if the kidneys are damaged. This happens with varieties that have large leaves. Buds form on top of last year's shoots. Flowering occurs precisely on these shoots, so it is important to cover the flower completely for the winter period so that the buds do not freeze.

    How to achieve flowering hydrangeas in the garden?

    For crops in open ground, subject to all the rules of care, in order to increase flowering and so that the plant blooms faster, use the following methods:

    1. Early stunting perform in November or early December, in which case the first flowering can be expected in early March.
    2. For faster flowering apply the method of warm watering, for this they are watered from the early spring months with water at a temperature of at least 35-36 degrees.
    3. With the appearance of the first leaves and shoots, watering the shrub is doubled, and additionally spraying is used at a temperature of at least 14 degrees.

    For hydrangeas in tubs and pots, there are other ways to speed up flowering:

    1. Thermal baths when the pot is placed for 10-12 hours in a basin of warm water (36-38 degrees).
    2. To ensure flowering in December-January, it is necessary to carry out measures for additional electric lighting. To do this, tubs and pots are placed under lighting lamps for 8-10 hours at a time, especially at night. Such an event accelerates the beginning of the formation of inflorescences by 15-20 days.

    Flowering room hydrangea

    Rules for caring for a home flower:

    • Cut an adult bush of home hydrangea 25-30 cm from the ground, plant it in the ground for the winter.
    • Qualitatively cover with dry leaves, spruce forest.
    • In spring, cut the stems to the very base.
    • After updating the crown in August, plant the plant back in the tub.

    Pot Size Tips:

    • With one shoot on a bush, a tub with a diameter of no more than 10-12 cm is chosen.
    • Two or three shoots - it is better to give preference to a pot with a diameter of up to 15 cm.
    • For a large bush - 18-20 cm.

    Care after flowering

    The hydrangea of ​​the paniculate and tree-like varieties is cut off qualitatively, but the large-leaved hydrangea is not touched at all, because it blooms on the shoots of last year. Perennial care after flowering must be carried out either in late autumn, or all activities should be postponed to spring. When flowering has passed, the inflorescences must be carefully removed from the bush.

    How to trim?

    The pruning technique is divided into two main types:


    Hydrangea paniculate varieties are cut to old branches, leaving a few main shoots. Indoor hydrangeas are pruned sparingly, forming a shrub crown and somewhat updating old branches with new ones. The event is held in late autumn.

    Updating the bush, if done correctly, is completely safe and will allow the bush to acquire more luxury and pomp.

    Preparing for winter

    Before the onset of the winter period, the hydrangea is covered with a dense fabric, natural, breathable. Cold-tolerant is a tree-like hydrangea, but it is also covered for the winter.

    A step-by-step plan for preparing a perennial plant for winter:

    • In the 20th of September, excess leaves are removed, according to the recommended pruning scheme. This will provide lignification of the shoots and strengthen the bush.
    • After that, it is important to feed the soil with potassium phosphate elements in order to provide the plant with quality nutrition in the winter.
    • It is important to know that in the autumn it is categorically not recommended to introduce nitrogen preparations into the soil.
    • After that, cover the bush with woven material.

    Hydrangea transplant

    It is not recommended to transplant perennial shrubs in autumn, this will cause difficulties in adapting the plant and lead to death. But, if we are talking about tree-like hydrangea or paniculate, experts allow transplantation in the fall.

    It is better to transplant the plant in the spring, if possible, before the start of sap flow.

    For this:

    1. dig a hole with a diameter of up to 30 cm;
    2. bring in, pour in a bucket of water;
    3. the branches of a flowering shrub are tied with twine so as not to damage them;
    4. plant a bush in the prepared hole and cover it with earth.

    At the end of the event, carry out a rejuvenating pruning of the crown so that the hydrangea takes root as quickly as possible and puts up new roots and blooms. Blooming hydrangea is undesirable to transplant, this will lead to the death of inflorescences and poor survival.

    Photo gallery: blooming hydrangea in garden design

    Stories from our readers!
    “I am a summer resident with many years of experience, and I started using this fertilizer only last year. I tested it on the most capricious vegetable in my garden - on tomatoes. The bushes grew and bloomed together, the harvest was more than usual. And they didn’t get sick with late blight, this is the main thing.

    Fertilizer really gives more intensive growth of garden plants, and they bear fruit much better. Now you can’t grow a normal crop without fertilizer, and this top dressing increases the number of vegetables, so I am very pleased with the result."

    How to feed hydrangea?

    Proper systematic top dressing of soil for hydrangeas is a guarantee of longevity of growth, lush flowering and good general condition of the shrub. It is necessary to fertilize so that the plant survives the winter and is resistant to diseases and pests.

    For the spring period, the following fertilizer application scheme is used:

    • In the spring the development of leaves, the laying of inflorescences, the growth of the crown. For this, nitrogen is an important element, therefore, for top dressing, it is recommended to use solutions of potassium sulfate and urea in equal frequent 1: 1 and diluted in water (10 liters). To water one flowering bush, at least 4-6 liters of solution are required.
    • For hydrangea to receive enough nitric acid use slurry, which is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10.
    • Before bud tying it is recommended to introduce a slightly different composition into the soil, a large amount of phosphorus and potassium is required. For this, a drug such as superphosphate helps perfectly.
    • For a strong powerful stem, hydrangea is fed with a weak, slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. It can be applied only three times during the entire spring season.

    AT summer time to obtain abundant flowering of hydrangeas, the drug "Kemira flower" is used, as well as the following feeding recipes:

    • Organic-based solutions, such as bird droppings or manure, diluted in equal proportions with water.
    • In the summer, nitrogen substances are limited.
    • In the summer, lactic acid is well used, in which case it is allowed to use kefir, whey, yogurt for irrigation.
    • An effective simple option is to feed the soaked sourdough bread.

    In autumn, they are especially attentive to the issue of fertilizing blooming hydrangeas and carefully follow the recommendations:

    • Potassium sulfate and superphosphates are added to the soil. Specialized phosphorus-potassium solutions help the perennial prepare well for winter, strengthen the roots. To do this, dilute 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and use at least 7 liters per bush.
    • It is strictly forbidden to introduce nitrogen elements into the soil in the autumn period.. Otherwise, this can lead to the plant being vulnerable to frost and not surviving the winter. The only thing that is allowed to be used is peat and manure in small quantities.

    Hydrangea diseases and how to revive a flower?

    Among the most common diseases and pests of hydrangea are the following:

    gossamer Description:

    covers inside leaves of a flowering hydrangea with a brown cobweb. In this case, yellowing of the foliage is immediately noticeable, after which it dries and falls off.

    How to fight?

    As preparations for pest control, such means as "Tiofors", "Fitoverm" are used.

    Mealybug Description:

    The disease caused by the mealy worm manifests itself on the leaves and stems of the bush, they are covered with extensive yellow spots. If no control measures are taken, the spots gradually grow and the plant dies. The development of such an unpleasant situation is facilitated by high humidity and high temperature.

    How to fight?

    To get rid of the disease, use a solution of copper sulfate, water and green soap in parts 15g: 10l: 150 g.

    Chlorosis Description:

    The first sign that the hydrangea was exposed to chlorosis , are white leaves, in which only the veins remain dark green. This often manifests itself when there is an excess of humus or manure in the soil.

    How to fight?

    In this case, it is necessary to use a solution of nitric potassium 40 g per bucket of water and water 3 times in three days.

    green leafy Description:

    If a flowering hydrangea is affected by green leaf aphids, most often under conditions of crop growth in closed ground.

    How to fight?

    As a struggle and prevention, the method of spraying with a solution of anabazine sulfate is used, in a proportion of 20 g per 10 liters of water.

    mushroom rot Description:

    Hydrangea fungal rot spreads mainly to the roots of the plant. This process stops the influx of moisture, nutrients, due to which the perennial is covered with storms and dies. The cause is bacteria in the soil (organic additives), which mainly affects young immature plants.

    How to fight?

    To get rid of fungal diseases in a timely manner, use effective drug phytosporin and other high quality .

    snails Description:

    Often blooming hydrangea is attacked by snails (grape and common amber). Insects eat the inflorescences, feed on moisture from the leaves, and "steal" the nutrients from the plant. Often snails can be seen near the bush in winter, they winter there and in the dug-in soil around the laying of snails. With the advent of the first rays of the sun, the snails begin to feed on the still unblown shoots.

    How to fight?

    To get rid of them in the spring, metaldehyde powder is used, scattering it around the bush. It mixes with the soil and blocks the path of the snails, preventing them from reaching the leaves and flowers.

    gall nematode Description:

    It is a small worm, which in the process of life creates swelling on the roots. This leads to rotting and death of the plant. This problem is most often encountered by owners of young bushes.

    How to fight?

    To fix the problem, use a light solution of potassium permanganate to water the roots.

    To reanimate the plant, depending on the cause of its death, a variety of chemicals and high-quality, effective fertilizers are used.

    • To get rid of light spots on hydrangea leaves, you need to save the culture from direct sunlight.
    • If only the tips of the plant rot, the problem is lack of moisture and dry air.
    • If the hydrangea does not bloom, it may be necessary to feed the soil with nutrient solutions.

    We answer questions

    Hydrangea is a unique flower, and many inexperienced gardeners are asking the most common questions about caring for and growing a perennial plant.

    We answer questions:

    1. Hydrangea bush with inflorescences of different colors - how to achieve this effect? To achieve this effect is not difficult, top dressing will help with this:
      1. To get a different shade on one bush inflorescences, you need to add ammonium-potassium alum diluted in water on one side of the bush (10 pcs per 2 liters). So one part of the hydrangea bush will become blue.
      2. For sky blue blooms feed the soil with iron salts or you can dig an iron pipe for subsequent oxidation.
      3. To get pink color flowers on a bush, it is necessary to pour a handful of lime into the soil on one side of the perennial.
    2. Is it possible to make a purchased blooming indoor hydrangea bloom several times? Hydrangea is a unique plant, inflorescences appear from mid-summer to late autumn. But if the flowering period has already passed, it is impossible to make the flower bloom again, even if it is transplanted into open ground.
    3. Is it possible to cut a flowering bush? Hydrangea cuttings are best done in the summer with annual cuttings, up to 15 cm long. The flowering bush is cut for cuttings, but the inflorescences are removed (cut off). In this case, better rooting of the branches is ensured and the material for planting is of better quality.

    Conclusion

    Hydrangea is the most beautiful perennial for home and garden. Thanks to constant high-quality care, the bush will delight its owners with chic flowers and bright colors for many years. Growing hydrangea in the country will not be difficult even for a novice gardener, if you follow the rules and recommendations described above.