Thanks to the original bell-shaped flowers, synningia has firmly won a place among the most spectacular flowering houseplants. Its more familiar name is gloxinia. Care at home will require some skill and accuracy. But this flower does not set difficult requirements for its owners, but thanks for the proper care and attention with abundant and long flowering.

Gloxinia flower is one of the representatives of the numerous Gesneriaceae family. The botanical name is inspired by the German Glocke, which means "bell". The flower received its second name, sinningia, in honor of the German botanist W. Sinning. Previously, it was used exclusively to refer to tuberous forms, while the former was used more widely and included tuberless varieties. Today, both names are equivalent.

Gloxinia is a herbaceous perennial that "came" to our window sills from tropical Brazil. Most varieties have a tuber that is beige when young, later darkening to brown; in some natural forms, it is replaced by a scaly rhizome. The stem is juicy, erect, covered with sparse hairs. Leaves are ovate, velvety, dark green; thanks to the prominent veins, they look “quilted”. They are located opposite. The size of the leaf plate depends on the variety and can reach 20 cm. Occasionally there are forms with hairless leaves.

Flowers are bell-shaped; color, size and degree of doubleness depend on the variety and are distinguished by an enviable variety. The petals are usually unevenly colored: the pharynx is lighter than the edges. It can be painted whitish or yellowish even with dark petals; sometimes additionally “decorated” with speckles or strokes of a darker shade. Peduncles solitary, formed in the axils. Easily pollinated. The seeds are small.

Common varieties

There are many varieties of gloxinia given to us by nature. Two of them have taken root in indoor floriculture: royal gloxinia (Gloxinia regina) and beautiful gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa). Thanks to active breeding work, many varieties and hybrids have appeared within each species.

By size, gloxinia are divided into standard (25-35 cm), compact (15-25 cm), miniature (5-15 cm) and microminiature species (5 cm or less). For example, the popular gloxinia Avanti is a series of hybrids with compact, not prone to stretching, and at the same time profusely flowering bushes.

According to the arrangement of the petals in the bud, gloxinia is divided into terry and simple. Gloxinia terry is more attractive, but it is more difficult for her to open buds. Due to demand, more and more terry varieties appear. For example, the Negress, which is distinguished by the rich purple color of the petals. Among the white terry varieties, the large-flowered High Light and the marshmallow-pink Triumph Tender are remembered.

Gloxinia Yesenia, a standard Dutch hybrid with raspberry-colored petals, which has become widespread, also boasts a large double flower. Not inferior in beauty and popularity and simple varieties. For example, gloxinia Kaiser Wilhelm with dark purple petals, bordered by a clear white stripe. Gloxinia Rosalind does not lose ground - a variety with simple snow-white petals, bordered by a wide crimson stripe.

According to the color of the petals, monophonic, chintz and tiger gloxinia are distinguished. Gloxinia Madonna - an example of a solid color - a large-flowered snow-white plant. Gloxinia Empress, a popular variety in indoor floriculture with a simple flower, can be attributed to chintz. Its white petals are covered with small purple dots. Another chintz gloxinia, Zaznoba, is decorated with a larger speck. Gloxinia Shagane is an example of a brindle coloration. In addition to the speck, it has a wide strip along the edge of the petals.

Gloxinias are also distinguished by the shape of flower buds, highlighting cup-shaped, tubular, funnel-shaped, gramophones and unusual slipper-shaped tidei. Among the variety of varieties, everyone will be able to choose a suitable "pet".

How to care for gloxinia

Caring for gloxinia at home is simple, it is enough to clearly follow the rules of agricultural technology; but they require attention. Surprisingly, even in ideal conditions a plant that is rarely approached develops worse. But the proud Brazilian beauty perceives love and care with “gratitude”.

Lighting

For optimal care of synningia, bright but diffused light is required. Moreover, the intensity of lighting affects only the appearance of the bush. On the west and east side, the stem will be thicker and the internodes shorter, respectively, the plant will be more compact.

A thinner stem is formed on the northern windows, drooping under the weight of leaves and buds, leaves are laid less often: in this case, gloxinia will need a backup. You can form a bush by pinching the growth point at the desired height: this procedure will make it more lush and compact, but will delay flowering for a month and a half. On window sills of southern orientation, without shading, sinningia feels uncomfortable.

Buds, regardless of the location of the pot, are laid when the daylight hours reach 12 hours. For some varieties, 10 hours is enough. Therefore, experienced flower growers organize additional lighting for their flowers with the help of fluorescent or LED lamps, artificially prolonging the daylight hours and simulating the laying of buds.

Temperature and humidity

Like other indoor flowers that came to us from the tropics, gloxinia is thermophilic. The optimal range for caring for her is 20-25 degrees. The lower limit of endurance is 17 degrees. The plant tolerates the period of summer heat calmly, but it has a negative attitude to temperature changes. Do not like gloxinia also drafts and wind. Therefore, this representative of the Gesneriaceae family cannot be taken out into the open air: even if she survives, she will not be able to restore her appearance this season.

Gloxinia is quite suitable for the humidity of the air in our apartments, so no additional measures are taken to increase it.

How to water gloxinia

Gloxinia care involves moderate watering without waterlogging or overdrying the earthy coma. In the first case, the tuber rots, in the second, the leaves wither and flowering stops. The main guideline is the top layer of soil - it should dry out between waterings. Sinningia tolerates light drying better, so if you are not sure if it has dried out enough, wait another day. It is better for novice flower growers to add water more often, but little by little.

Gloxinia can be watered both from above and below. With the first method, it is easier to control the amount of moisture that the soil will “take”; the second method allows you to avoid droplets on the leaves and tuber.

Do not forget to drain excess water from the pan! During the dormant period, watering is not required - it is enough to spray the soil from a spray gun once a month.

Fertilization

Gloxinia is quite “gluttonous”: full flowering does not occur until the tuber has accumulated the required amount nutrients. During the growing season, top dressing of gloxinia is carried out every two weeks, after the appearance of peduncles - once every 10 days. Moreover, during the active set of green mass, additives with a predominant content of nitrogen and potassium are used; after budding, the plant needs more phosphorus. The concentration indicated on the package is halved. Top dressing begins 2 weeks after planting the tuber and stops as soon as it begins to prepare for rest.

Post-Purchase Care

Gloxinia care after purchase may be different depending on the goals. Gloxinia tubers grown in industrial greenhouses are forcibly "brought" to abundant flowering using hormones. Spending all the energy on the formation of more and more buds, the plant either dies immediately after flowering, or goes to rest and does not wake up. Usually synningia produces fewer flowers, saving strength.

If you want to enjoy flowering as long as possible, the bush is watered and fertilized in the usual way. If your task is to preserve the variety in the long term, it is better to remove the flower stalks and replace the substrate with a more nutritious one. In the process of transplanting, the tuber is carefully examined for the presence of gils; upon detection, the damaged areas are cut out, the wounds are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

During and after flowering

Gloxinia blooms in spring and summer. Specific dates for laying buds depend on the variety and variety.

During flowering it is important:

1. Carefully ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
2. Fertilize the plant every 10 days with flowering fertilizer.
3. Remove faded buds along with flower stalks in a timely manner: remaining on the bush, they “pull” as much strength from the plant as during flowering.

After the gloxinia has faded, it can be forced to bloom again - but only if the tuber is healthy, mature and strong. To do this, the stems are cut so that 2-3 pairs of leaves remain on each. The bush continues to be fed regularly. A second wave of buds can form on the stepsons that have appeared - they will open in the fall.

Care for gloxinia after flowering is minimal: during this period they reduce, and then completely stop feeding. The leaves of the plant turn yellow and wither, giving the accumulated nutrients to the tuber. You don't need to cut them. Sinningia drinks less water: they continue to water it little by little until the aerial part dies off completely.

rest period

After the tuber has fallen asleep, it can be left in the same pot, which is cleaned in a dark, cool place. Some growers prefer to extract it from the old soil and place it in sawdust or coconut fiber. Regardless of the option chosen, the substrate is slightly moistened from a spray bottle once a month. For a good rest of sinningia, three months is enough. Young plants in the first year of life are not allowed to fall asleep - their nodules are too weak and will not be able to wake up! They continue to be watered and fed in normal mode all winter.

Reproduction of gloxinia

Reproduction of gloxinia at home is not difficult. You can get young plants vegetatively (top or leaf cuttings, flower stalks), seeds and tuber division.

Among other methods of propagation of gloxinia, vegetative is preferable. Children obtained in this way bloom within six months and retain the flower color characteristic of the mother plant. Some features (for example, the compactness of the Avanti gloxinia bush) are preserved only when the gloxinia is propagated by a peduncle.

Reproduction of gloxinia leaf:

1. A healthy leaf is cut off.
2. If you plan to plant it as a whole, the cutting is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
3. When planting using the toaster method, the sheet plate is cut into several parts so that there are several veins on each segment along the cut line - they will release the children.
4. The planting material is dried, the places of cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.
5. For planting, a mixture of peat, perlite, vermiculite and sand (3: 1: 1: 1: 1) is used, the planting material is deepened by 1 cm, watered abundantly.
6. You can wait for the roots to appear in the water, but in this case, the planting material rots more often.
7. The containers are placed in greenhouses, regularly ventilated and watered.
8. After 1.5-2 months, babies appear.
9. Young growth is seated in separate containers in the phase of two true leaves.

When propagating gloxinia with a cutting, the upper part of the stem with 2-4 leaves is cut off, and sits down as in the first method. To root the peduncle, its base is additionally treated with root formation stimulants. The buds are removed before planting.

Growing gloxinia from seeds at home is an interesting activity. For pollination, pollen is applied to the pestle with a soft brush. You can collect it from other buds of the same plant or from synningia of other colors. In the first case, most seedlings will be similar in color to the mother plant; in the second, you can get unexpected and original colors. But be prepared for the fact that most of the best varietal traits will be lost - most plants will turn out to be unattractive, especially when pollinating hybrids.

After full ripening (about 3 months), gloxinia seeds are sown in a pre-moistened mixture of peat and sand. No need to deepen. The containers are placed in a greenhouse, if necessary, moistened from a spray bottle. Shoots dive twice, and when they reach 6-8 cm, they are seated in separate containers.

Large and strong gloxinia tubers can be divided. Do this after new shoots have hatched, using a sharp, clean knife. On each part there should be points of growth. The places of cuts must be treated with crushed charcoal; the delenki are dried and planted in the usual way.

Transfer

Gloxinia is transplanted annually after the tuber awakens. The procedure is not difficult - even beginner flower growers can easily cope with it.

Suitable soil and pot for gloxinia

The soil for gloxinia should be light, breathable, and at the same time moisture-intensive. Therefore, leafy soil, peat and sand (2:3:1) are used for the base. Peat should be low-lying or neutralized - gloxinia does not survive in acidic substrates. Perlite and vermiculite must be added to the resulting mixture to improve moisture capacity.

The root system of synningia is superficial, so the pot should be low. Like any indoor plant, gloxinia blooms only after it has completely covered the roots with an earthen ball, so the distance between the sides of the pot and the tuber should not exceed 3-4 cm.

Step by step transplant process

For gloxinia, transplantation begins with awakening. If you plant a sleeping tuber and cover it with earth, you will have to wait a long time for sprouts from it.

The tuber is woken up as follows:

• in late February - early March, they are removed from the substrate in which he slept;
• stand for several hours in a weak solution of Fundazol;
• you can process it with Epin or Zircon;
• drainage and a layer of fresh soil are poured into the prepared container so that the tuber is subsequently buried by 1-2 cm;
• the tuber is placed on the ground, watered, it is not necessary to fall asleep until the required number of sprouts appears;
• put the container in a warm, well-lit place;
• after the appearance of 2-3 sprouts, soil is poured so that the tuber is covered;
• after the sprouts grow up, add more earth so as to deepen the tuber a little.

Until the gloxinia tuber is covered, it is better to use bottom watering - moisture ingress on it is undesirable.

Diseases and pests

The diseases most characteristic of gloxinia are caused by various fungi. It's gray rot powdery mildew, late blight, which appear most often due to violations of agricultural technology.

The main pest of gloxinia is the cyclamen mite. When it appears, young leaves are deformed, do not grow to the desired size. The plant is treated with acaricides (Neoron, Kleschevit, Fitoverm) at least three times. Sometimes gloxinia is affected by thrips - they are interested in pollen. It is not difficult to notice these pests - they are small black bugs with a forked tail. To get rid of using systemic insecticides (Fufanon, Aktara); all flower stalks must be removed.

Potential Growing Problems

When caring for gloxinia, it is important to follow all the rules of agricultural technology. Their violations are manifested by a number of external signs. If they are not eliminated in time, the plant may die.

External manifestation	Cause and remedies
Leaves are curling	A possible cause is cyclamen mites. In addition, in this way gloxinia can react to cold drafts, waterlogging or excessive nitrogen content in the soil. Follow agricultural practices.
Gloxinia buds dry without blooming	Nutrient deficiency or young tuber. Fertilize the flowering plant regularly with a phosphorus-containing fertilizer. If a young plant has many buds, remove some.
Dry tips of leaves	Insufficient or excessive humidity, air temperature above 35 degrees. Change the watering regime or move the pot to a cooler place. The lower leaves can dry out for natural reasons: they have grown old and die off.
Spots on the leaves	If the spots are wet, it is a fungal infection. Treat the plant with a fungicide and eliminate the causes that led to it. If the spots are dry, they are most likely caused by exposure to direct sunlight or too high a temperature.
Leaves wither	Most likely, the reason is a lack of moisture. Do not allow the earthen clod to dry out. If this happens when the soil is wet, the tuber has begun to rot. Get it out of the ground, cut off the damaged parts. Most of the trunk will have to be removed. After transplanting into fresh soil, the plant is placed in a greenhouse.

Suitable growing conditions for gloxinia are not difficult to form on any windowsill in a city apartment. Therefore, growing gloxinia at home is a fairly simple and exciting activity. You can read about how to organize the care of gloxinia in a pot at home in this article, which tells all the subtleties and secrets. This plant has abundant flowering with a variety of bud colors. Requires rest period winter time when you need to completely stop watering and top dressing. In response this spring, the gloxinia flower will produce a lush rosette of pubescent dark green leaves and a huge number of funnel-shaped buds.

We offer you to learn even more facts about the care and cultivation of gloxinia in order to properly carry out all agricultural activities.

See how gloxinia is cared for at home in the photo, which shows the main operations:

What do gloxinia indoor flowers look like (description)

Family: Gesneriaceae (Gesneriaceae).

Number of species: over 50.

Homeland: tropics of Central and South America.

The description of gloxinia is as follows: the plant is a beautifully flowering tuberous plant with thickened stems up to 10 cm long. On a bush there are usually 4–6 pairs of oppositely arranged leaves of a broad oval shape, slightly heart-shaped at the base, about 15–20 cm long. The leaves of gloxinia indoor flowers are velvety-pubescent, with silver staining along the veins, the reverse side of the leaves is sometimes reddish.

The flowers are bell-shaped, velvety, have a long peduncle, their color is varied and, depending on the variety, can be:

Gloxinia white

Gloxinia pink

Gloxinia purpurea

Gloxinia lilac

Gloxinia red

There are also varieties with two-color flowers.

In addition, they can be simple or terry, drooping or pointing up.

Flowering is profuse, long proper care can last from early spring until autumn.

Kinds: only a few species exist in nature. As indoor plants, under the name of gloxinia hybrid, varieties obtained as a result of hybridization are common:

Gloxinia royal

Gloxinia beautiful

See what gloxinia looks like in the photo, which shows a variety of types:

How to grow gloxinia flowers at home

Before you grow gloxinia, you need to know that the best place for this is eastern or western exposure.

Lighting Requirements: Gloxinia is photophilous, it requires bright diffused light. When kept in direct summer sun, yellow-brown spots may appear on gloxinia leaves - sunburn.

Temperature. Gloxinia home flowers prefer moderate temperatures both during the active period and during the dormant period. Thus, the optimum temperature during the active period is 15–17 °C, and during storage of tubers during the dormant period, it is 10–12 °C.

Watering, spraying: during growth and flowering, it is watered quite abundantly, but excessive dampness is detrimental to plants. When watering, use warm water, watering so that water does not fall on the flowers and leaves. From the end of August, when flowering ends, watering is somewhat reduced, and by the end of September it is already watered a little, as the plant wilts and a dormant period begins. Requires high atmospheric humidity (80-90%), but does not tolerate direct spraying, the air must be moistened at some distance from the plant.

Top dressing: start around April and run until early August weekly. Use special fertilizers for flowering houseplants (containing more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen). You can apply irrigation and organic fertilizers(for example, mullein infusion diluted with water, however, excess nitrogen can lead to the formation of powerful intense green leaves and small ugly flowers).

Rest period. After flowering, gloxinia begins a dormant period, which lasts approximately from November to January. For a comfortable entry of the plant into a dormant state, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering from October. When the aerial part of the plant dries up, it should be removed, the tubers should be carefully dug up, dead or rotten roots should be cut off, and the tubers should be washed in cold water, dry and store in a plastic container, which is kept in a dark, cool place.

After about 3 months, new shoots will appear on the tubers, it is important not to miss this moment, since when they appear, the tubers should be planted again in pots with soil.

Air humidity. During flowering, gloxinia prefer high humidity. However, plants cannot be sprayed, however, an increase in humidity can be achieved by placing the pot in a container with moss or expanded clay, which must be moistened regularly.

Possible problems: after spraying, spots similar to burns may appear on the leaves.

Gloxinia indoor plant transplant

Gloxinia transplantation is carried out annually in the spring, but a larger pot is taken only when the old one becomes cramped. Use fairly wide pots of small height. Gloxinia has a well-defined dormant period. After flowering begins withering of the aerial part, which should be removed. Then the pot is moved to a cool (10-12 ° C) dark place, or the tubers are placed in sand or dry peat and stored at the same temperature. They can be stored in the sand until the end of February, after which in the spring they are again planted in the ground, slightly pressed into a loose soil mixture, and placed in a lighted place with a temperature of about 16 ° C.

The substrate for a houseplant gloxinia is a mixture of 2 parts of leafy soil, 1 part of peat (or greenhouse soil) and 1 part of river sand. You can also use purchased mixes "Violet", etc. Good drainage is required.

Propagation of gloxinia by cuttings (with video)

Reproduction. Gloxinia can be propagated by dividing the tuber, leaf cuttings and seeds.

For propagation of gloxinia by leaf cuttings, young leaves taken during the budding period are suitable. For rooting take loose nutrient soil, in the middle of the pot, make a hole with a diameter of about 3 cm and the same depth and pour wet river sand into it. The stalk is planted in the sand and covered with a jar. Roots form more efficiently with soil heating, so the rooting cutting is kept on a sunny windowsill, covering the leaves from direct rays. The jar can be removed when nodules begin to form at the ends of the petiole, usually this happens a month after the start of rooting.

When propagating by dividing the tuber in the spring, a strongly overgrown tuber is taken and cut into pieces with a sharp knife. Each part should have 1-2 sprouts. Slices of the tuber are sprinkled with crushed coal and the parts are planted in separate pots. At the same time, after planting the tuber, it is not watered for 2 days.

Watch the reproduction of gloxinia in the video, which shows the process of grafting, rooting and planting:

How to plant gloxinia seeds

When propagated by seeds, they are sown in November - February in wide bowls covered with leafy soil (can be coniferous, heather) mixed with sand. Before planting gloxinia with seeds, you need to know that they are sown not thickly, without deepening into the soil and without sprinkling with earth. The bowl is covered with glass and kept at a temperature not lower than 22 ° C. Shoots usually appear 2 weeks after sowing. When the first 2 leaves become clearly visible at the sprout, they dive into a bowl at a distance of 2 cm from each other.

The second pick is made when the seedlings have a third pair of leaves, and are seated at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

The third pick is made when three pairs of leaves are already well developed, while the seedlings are also planted in a common box at a distance of 10 cm from each other. When young bushes begin to touch the leaves, they can be planted in pots with a diameter of 12 cm. Flowering, with proper care, can begin as early as 7 months after sowing.

Grower question

During flowering, this houseplant impresses everyone - large bells of rich dark blue or burgundy color look very impressive. Friends, seeing such a miracle, immediately begin to ask for layering, leaves for divorce. In addition to leaflets, flower stalks are also used for this purpose. But today I saw tiny seeds on flower stalks (though not all of them). I think you can also get new plants from them. But how do you take care of them?

Indeed, gloxinia sometimes forms seeds. But they require specific treatment. Sterile conditions are needed, it is recommended to germinate them in Petri dishes, which are usually used by seed growers and biochemists. These are two glass plates that are put on top of each other. They put disinfected, calcined sand there, moisten it and place the seeds on top. Shoots appear tiny. In this case, the plant develops slowly, you have to wait 4-5 years until it blooms. Reproduction of gloxinia with leaves and peduncles is more reliable and will not take much time.

Gloxinia (synningia) hybrid (Sinningia hybrida hort.), the Gesneriaceae family.

Homeland: tropical Brazil.

Appearance and structure: tuberous plant with large funnel-shaped bright flowers of blue, red, pink, white color. The leaves are green, velvety, on juicy petioles, emphasizing the beauty of numerous flowers (up to 50 pieces).

Reproduction: propagated by seeds, young nodules or leaf cuttings. Seeds are sown in a mixture of leafy soil, peat and sand (2:1:1). They are not closed up, the sown seeds are watered through a fine sieve or from a spray bottle. Shoots appear on the 10-15th day. They are regularly sprayed, preventing drying out and excessive moisture. The temperature should be +18–20 °C. A month later, they are transplanted into a more spacious dish, a month later - again. After closing the leaves, each plant is planted in a pot with a diameter of 7 cm. After a month and a half, they are transplanted into a pot with a diameter of 9–12 cm. Plants bloom in 6–7 months. The first buds are plucked. The temperature should not be higher than +15–18 °C.

Flowering continues until November, with additional illumination - until December. Leaves with short petioles also take root well - they are planted in sand and covered with glass. Rooting lasts 3–4 weeks at a temperature of +20–25 °C and an air humidity of 80%.

Peculiarities: after the autumn flowering of gloxinia, the roots of the plant die off. Flowerpots with tubers are installed in a dark, cool place for 4–5 months. Tubers are periodically viewed. In January, they begin to be watered, rearranged to a warmer and brighter place. With the advent of sprouts, watering is increased. Sprouted tubers in early spring are divided into two parts according to the number of sprouts and planted again in the ground. When planting and transplanting, use an earthen mixture of leafy and humus soil with sand (4:4:1). Grows well and blooms in peat. In the room, it is recommended to grow on the southern windows, and water from the pallet. Resting tubers can be stored in living rooms in the same pots under a thick layer of sand poured over the ground.

Gloxinia is a wonderful indoor plant of various varieties. It strikes with the elegance of the shape of flowers, their brightness and tenderness, pleasant to the touch leaves. Many indoor plant lovers love to grow gloxinia.

And although gloxinia requires careful care, it conquers not only amateur flower growers involved in the cultivation of country crops and houseplants, but also people who have never grown them.

Even those who are indifferent to indoor plants admire the sophistication of a home flower and try to breed it at home.

The surface of the leaves is velvety, pubescent. Flowers of different colors: white, purple, red, pink, bell-shaped. They have a long peduncle 20 cm.

Flowers are simple and double, depending on the variety. If the plant is properly looked after, then they bloom profusely for a long time from April to October.

Description of varieties of synningia

Do you love gloxinia with its amazingly beautiful flowers and velvety leaves? Previously, during our childhood, raspberry and purple gloxinia.

But time goes on, and breeders have created many different varieties synningia with an abundance of shades and shapes of houseplant flowers. We will now consider some of the most popular ones.

Gloxinia varieties are classified:

1. according to the size of the bush; According to the height of the ground part of the plant, they are divided into miniatures that do not grow more than 20 cm and ordinary ones, the diameter of the leaf rosette of which exceeds 30 cm;
2. beater characteristics. Corollas can consist of one row of petals (simple) or several (terry);
3. According to the type of coloring, synningia are divided into:

• plain. They are painted in one color from white to purple. Only a spot in the middle of the neck can be lighter;
• chintz, which consist of spots of the same size or specks;
• tigrins are decorated with a border around the edge of the bell and peas;
• terry.

• Madonna. This is a very beautiful, double flower, reminiscent of a white rose. Its calyx is slightly yellowish. A barely noticeable fringe frames each petal, making the flower more elegant. Petals are arranged in several rows.

With enough heat, light and moisture, a red smear appears on the petals. The leaves are light green, purple on the reverse side.

Features of gloxinia

In order for gloxinia to give a sufficient number of peduncles, the following features of the plant must be taken into account:

Rules for caring for gloxinia at home

Growing synningia is not difficult, but you should follow the rules for caring for it.

Gloxinia is a photophilous plant. Her daylight hours should be from 12 to 14 hours. Therefore, at night, additional lighting is necessary for a home flower.

It is best to place gloxinia on an artificially lit rack, where diffused light. You can place it on the windows on the west and east sides so that there is no active sun.

On the south side, the plant takes root in the spring, when the sun is not so warm. In summer, from the direct sun, gloxinia can get burned. Sometimes it is required to shade the place where the synningia is located.

To maintain humidity near a houseplant, you need to spray the air around it, but do not allow water to get on the pubescent leaves. You can put a container of water next to the plant.

Another way to keep synningia during dormancy is the following. Dig up the tuber, sprinkle it with sand or sawdust and put it in the warmest place in the refrigerator: in the vegetable tray. The storage temperature of the indoor flower should be + 10 degrees.

With the appearance of buds on the tuber, the dormant time ends.

Planting gloxinia

It is necessary to prepare a houseplant for transplanting to a new land. To do this, we take out the root, wash it under running water and lower it into a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes.

Damaged places on the tuber are removed and sprinkled with wood or activated carbon open, cut parts of the root. Before planting, the root should be dried for 24 hours.

Then two-thirds we plant the tuber inside, part of the root looks out. The ground should be moist when planting. Don't forget to put drainage in the pot.

The soil should be taken the same as when growing violets, in which add any baking powder of the earth: sphagnum moss, or vermiculite. Such soil is necessary so that gloxinia is not fed after planting.

For the same purpose, you can take a mixture of parts of the soil: 3 parts of peat and 2 parts of sand, and add manure or humus to it at the rate of 200 g per 5 liters of the mixture. When planting, take not a deep, but a wide pot, because the roots grow in width.

The distance from the edge of the pot to the tuber should be 4-5 cm, and if the gloxinia flower is small, then 3-4 cm is enough. As soon as you plant the plant, put it in the sun. First, it should be watered with a little settled water, and then increase the amount of water for irrigation.

Reproduction of gloxinia

A houseplant propagates in the following ways:

1. seeds;
2. leaf cuttings;
3. part of a sheet;
4. tubers;
5. stepchildren;
6. peduncle cuttings.

Propagation by leaf cuttings is the most popular and easiest method.

A cutting 3-4 cm long is taken at the time the buds appear. If the leaf is limp, dip it in water so that it regains its shape. Keep the cutting in boiled water at 22-25 degrees, and then plant it in loose nutrient soil.

One type of propagation is the use of flower seeds. It is best to use granulated seeds. Usually they germinate in 4-6 months, but you can also speed up the process of emergence of sprouts with the help of a greenhouse.

You can arrange it yourself. We take dishes from plastic, we make holes in it. At the bottom we put moistened peat tablets. We put seeds on them. Let them remain on the surface of the peat, they do not need to be pushed further into the ground.

Put the made greenhouse on a lighted place with a temperature of 22-23 degrees. After one and a half to two weeks, the crops should be moistened. When the sprouts hatch, place them with peat in disposable cups. After some time, transplant the crops into a pot.

Gloxinia also reproduces by dividing the leaf. In this case, the leaf is divided into several parts: it is cut across by veins. The stalk is left no more than 2 cm. Leaf fragments are planted in moist soil in a greenhouse and covered with polyethylene.

The planted parts of the leaf can not be opened or watered for a month. A month later, start accustoming the sprouts to live without a greenhouse, gradually opening the polyethylene for a short while. You can plant part of the leaf immediately into the ground, while covering it with oilcloth until new leaves appear on the gloxinia.

Reproduction by tuber division is a rather rare occurrence, because this process is very painful for a plant. A healthy tuber is taken.

If there is rot on it, then remove it, and sprinkle the cut-off place with crushed coal. The tuber is cut into several parts with a disinfected sharp knife so that each fragment has a process of at least 2 cm. Plant the parts of the tuber each in your own pot.

Keep an eye on the soil: it should always be moist, but do not allow excessive watering so that the root does not rot.

If flowering has stopped, you need to cut off the flower stalks, leaf plates and leave 2-4 lower leaves. Stepsons soon form in the sinuses, of which we leave 2-3 of the strongest and most viable. You need to put them in water so that they give a root, and then plant them in a pot.

Reproduction by stepchildren, shoots is carried out in the spring or after the first flowering. It is advisable at this time to apply fertilizer to the plant for growth.

In a month, buds will appear on the gloxinia, so the fertilizer must be changed to another one for flowering. Sinningia blooms all summer. Fertilizer with the end of flowering is not necessary.

Gloxinia can also reproduce with a peduncle. To do this, after the end of flowering, cut the flower stalks and put them in water. Further, we do everything in the same way as when propagating by leaf cuttings.

Gloxinia diseases

With improper care, synningia can fade.

Gloxinia pests

Gloxinia is affected by insects that appear on it due to improper care. Let's consider some of them.

Blooming gloxinia is exquisite with its velvet petals. different color, pubescent, pleasant to the touch leaves. The main thing is that the care of gloxinia at home is correct.

Only thanks to your efforts, love for the plant, synningia will give you a beautiful, delightful flowering.

The popular indoor plant gloxinia got its name from the name of a doctor from Alsace, B.P. Gloksin, who was also a professional botanist. Gloxinia belongs to the Gesneriev family. The plant is native to South and Central America. You can meet her both in Brazil and Peru, and in Mexico. In deciduous forests, gloxinia grows in the form of perennial herbs and shrubs.

Gloxinia also has a second name - synningia. It was given in honor of W. Sinning, a botanist from Boston University, who became the second father of gloxinia, engaged in its selection and hybridization. It was he who created homemade gloxinia, which today everyone can grow at home. Sinningia has a large number of different varieties.

Description of a houseplant gloxinia

Gloxinia belongs to the tuberous perennials. It has a short stem and large, succulent leaves that are bright and rich green in color and have a velvety surface. The flowers are bell-shaped. To the touch, they can be both simple and terry. The color of the flowers are red, white, pink, purple. In nature, 25 plant species are found, and only 2 species became the basis for breeding: beautiful gloxinia and royal gloxinia. The seeds of the plant are very, very small.

Gloxinia indoor flower varieties and photos

Below are photographs of four varieties of gloxinia flower and a brief description.

• has several interesting varieties. Popular varieties of home gloxinia are Avanti, Hollywood, Brokada.
• characterized by large flowers of bright colors that bloom together. The leaves of this variety are dense and small in size.
• characterized by large purple flowers without any inclusions.
• - the perfect gift. It is a compact dwarf with excellent double flowers.

Like every plant, gloxinia requires consideration of its features. Since room gloxinia is bred by selection, it is sensitive to certain factors.

Lighting, humidity, temperature

Gloxinia is not demanding in care

Caring for gloxinia at home will not be difficult, but it will require attention to some points. The plant must be given a fairly spacious place and provide bright and diffused light. The light day of gloxinia should last approximately 12-14 hours, so additional lighting should be turned on at night.

There is a very simple way to determine how much light a plant gets. If the leaves are arranged horizontally, then everything is in order, and if they reach for the light, then his gloxinia is clearly not enough. However, direct sunlight can be detrimental to the plant.

Drafts for the plant are very destructive, so if the plant is located on the windowsill, then frequent ventilation will have to be excluded. Gloxinia needs high humidity, but she does not like moisture on the leaves, so you will have to place water containers next to the pot.

The normal temperature for gloxinia during the growing season is normal room temperature. But during the dormant period, the optimum temperature for the plant will be 10 degrees Celsius. If you carefully observe gloxinia, then she herself will tell her condition what she needs. Leaves hanging down indicate that the flower is frozen. Leaves raised up indicate overheating.

Watering a houseplant

When fertilizing gloxinia, you need to remember that an excess can do more harm than a lack of fertilizer.

Gloxinia should be watered with water that is a degree or two warmer than room temperature. During the growing season, it is necessary to water in a pan or top watering, but it is important not to wet either the leaves or flowers. Allow the top layers of the soil to dry out between waterings. At the end of August, the intervals between waterings increase so that until mid-October, gloxinia gradually enters a state of rest.

Fertilizer

Gloxinia needs to be fertilized once a decade with a complete fertilizer complex for ornamental plants. To prepare for the dormant period in mid-August, top dressing is stopped. If you do not fertilize gloxinia, the flowers become small, and the color fades. Due to this, the flowering period is reduced, and the aesthetics and decorativeness of the flower suffer greatly.

In summer, deep notches may be visible on the edge of the leaf blade. This indicates a lack of boron. In this case, the plant should be fertilized with a 2% boron solution.

When fertilizing, it is important to remember that an excess of fertilizer is much more dangerous than their lack. Therefore, it is important to observe moderation in this matter.

Gloxinia transplanted during dormancy

At the end of the dormant period every year, gloxinia needs to be transplanted. To do this, you can buy a soil mixture in the store, which will be the same as for begonias and violets. You can make up the soil mixture yourself. To do this, take 2 parts of leafy soil and 1 part of humus or sand.

So, at the end of February, the tubers of the plant, along with a clod of earth, are transferred to a larger pot. Before that, a layer of drainage is laid on the bottom of the new pot, and then a layer of soil. After transplanting, the plant is sprinkled with soil and compacted. Gloxinia tubers should only be half buried as a result. Similarly, you need to make the initial landing.

If gloxinia has faded

After the flowering period has ended from May to June, it is necessary to cut the stems and almost all the leaves. At the same time, 2-4 bottom sheets remain. Very soon stepchildren will begin to form in the sinuses. Of these, only 2-3 of the strongest and most viable should be left. The rest are removed. During the laying of stepchildren, it will be good to feed the plant with fertilizers intended for growth. And when the buds begin to appear in a month, you can apply fertilizer for flowering. The second flowering cycle is likely to be much more modest, and that's okay. It happens that gloxinia blooms throughout the summer, and then preparation for re-blooming is not needed.

The flowering period of gloxinia ends in May to June

When the flowering time is completely over, you need to stop fertilizing, greatly reduce watering and wait for the leaves to dry and turn yellow. Next, the tops are cut off, and only a small stump 1-2 cm long is left above the tuber.

Gloxinia in winter

For the winter period, there are two options. The first is cutting the plant for the winter and storing it until the end of February in a dark and cool place, for example, under a bathroom or on an insulated loggia. Watering occurs no more than 1-2 times a month so that the tubers do not dry out.

Tubers during dormancy can also be stored in a plastic bag with a lock, because during the growing season the plant still needs to be transplanted with a new substrate. The tubers are cleaned of soil residues and placed in a bag along with vermiculite mixed with the substrate in a 1: 1 ratio. Then the lock is fastened, and the tubers are placed in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator. So you don’t have to worry that during the dormant period the tubers will dry out without watering.

If gloxinia grown from seeds is still small, then in winter it is simply moderately watered.

Reproduction of a home flower gloxinia

There are several ways to propagate gloxinia, but the simplest, most popular and labor-intensive are vegetative methods.

Reproduction by seeds

Gloxinia from seeds germinates in 4-9 months, depending on what time of year you planted

There is a huge selection of gloxinia seeds in specialized stores, and newcomers to flower breeding may well want to try themselves as breeders. However, one should not expect much from such experiments.

If you want to grow gloxinia from seeds, then you should start by buying seed. It is better to choose granulated seeds. Germination time will be indicated on the packaging. This is usually 4-6 months, and if you start sowing seeds in winter, then all 9-10 months. Sowing seeds in March will greatly speed up the germination process.

To speed up germination, you can buy a greenhouse or make it yourself. To do this, take a deep plastic container with a lid. Several ventilation holes are made in the lid, and soaked peat tablets are placed on the bottom. They have seeds on them. However, they do not need to be buried in the ground.

It is important to place the greenhouse in a warm and sufficiently lit place with a temperature of about 22-23 degrees. One and a half to two weeks, crops will need constant moisture. When sprouts appear, they, along with peat tablets, are moved into disposable plastic cups. After some time, a transplant into permanent pots will be required.

leaf reproduction

Gloxinia also reproduces well in a vegetative way.

If you are not an amateur breeder and do not have special reasons to grow gloxinia from seeds, then it is better to prefer vegetative reproduction, which is much more reliable than seed. For reproduction, either the smallest leaf is usually taken, or a large leaf is divided into fragments.

The leaf is cut across with veins. The petiole is cut off, and no more than 2 cm is left. For cutting, you must choose the sharpest tool in order to prevent the leaf or its fragments from rotting.

The resulting fragments are planted in pots with light and moist soil. They are placed in a greenhouse and covered with polyethylene. For a whole month, the greenhouse can not be ventilated, and the fragments can not be watered. After a month, the fragments should be gradually accustomed to life outside the greenhouse. To do this, you need to open a little at first polyethylene film. The greenhouse should be located in a place with good lighting.

For leaf propagation, it can be placed in water or directly in the ground. The sheet should be covered with oilcloth until new leaves appear.

Reproduction by tubers

Gloxinia tubers are rarely bred, this is due to the fact that this is a painful process for the plant.

The division of tubers is resorted to only in extreme cases, because for the plant this is a painful process. The tuber must be chosen healthy. If there is rot, it is cut off. The tubers are cut with a sharp disinfected knife. Sections are processed with crushed coal. Each fragment must have at least one shoot of at least 2 cm. The fragments are planted in pots, and in order for them to take root, the soil must always be well moistened, but not excessively, so that the tubers do not rot.

Reproduction by peduncles

After the end of flowering, the peduncle is carefully cut off with a sharp knife and placed in water for rooting. Next, you need to act in the same way as when propagating with a leaf.

Reproduction by stepchildren (shoots)

In the spring or after flowering, many shoots appear on the tubers. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed. The shoots are placed in water to root and then planted in pots.

Reproduction by leaf cuttings

This is the easiest way to propagate gloxinia. The petiole, which is taken during the budding period, should not be longer than 3-4 cm. If the leaf is sluggish, then it should be lowered into the water. He will swim a little and restore turgor. The cutting easily gives roots in boiled water at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. Then it is placed in loose and nutritious soil. Growth will be especially active in intense sunlight. A month after rooting, tubers will begin to appear.

Diseases and pests

The most common disease that occurs in gloxinia is gray rot.

As a result of improper care, gloxinia may develop leaf diseases. The most common of these is gray rot, gradually covered with brown spots. For treatment, it is necessary to remove all damaged areas, and then treat the plant with a fungicide.

Root rot is no less common. The roots in this case turn brown, and the stem rots at the base. The disease can lead to the death of gloxinia. It develops as a result of too abundant watering with cold water.

Gloxinia can also suffer from diseases such as powdery mildew, black leg, late blight, and various fungal infections. For prevention, the drug phytosporin will be effective, and for treatment - fundazol.

Indoor gloxinia flower may suffer and viral infections. The likelihood of this will increase if spider or cyclamen mites or thrips start on the plant.

It should be noted that it is impossible to see the cyclomenic tick with the naked eye. You can only notice a large accumulation of mites, and it will look like a layer of dust at the bottom of the leaf plate. The presence of cyclomen mites is indicated by deformed and thickened leaves that roll down along the edges, twisted stem, wilted buds, dry tops of shoots, deformed petals.

Read about how to transplant a cordilina indoor plant.

No less relevant will be information on how the arrowroot plant is transplanted and whether a transplant is needed after buying a flower. To these questions.

At first, it will also be extremely difficult to notice the spider mite. It is also on the underside of the leaf and feeds on the juices of the plant. You can calculate the pest by white dots, which later transform into yellow and brown spots, or by a thin cobweb that appears in the later stages of infection.

In this photo, gloxinia is affected by thrips

If light strokes are visible on the leaves, dots and spots, this indicates the presence of thrips. Undamaged areas will have a silver sheen. Over time, the infected leaves will dry out, turn brown, and their edges will wrap up.

Thrips larvae usually penetrate the soil, therefore, it is simply impossible to do without replacing its upper layers, and best of all the substrate. For reliability, you should also thoroughly treat the plant with insecticides.

Sometimes gloxinia leaves turn yellow and fall off.. This happens either with frequent watering, or with a lack of nitrogen. If the leaves are curling, then the room is probably too dry and hot. If, on the contrary, the humidity is too high, the leaves also curl, short pedicels form, and the flowers hide under the leaves and deform.

Gloxinia may not bloom due to excess nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down the flowering process. The plant sometimes does not bloom due to lack of light or at too low a temperature.

If gloxinia leaves fade in autumn, then everything is in order, because the plant is preparing for winter. If the leaves wither and darken, turn blue-green during the growing season, then this indicates that the tubers rot from excessive watering.

Watch and video material on indoor flower gloxinia, in this video Lyudmila Fedorchenko will talk about some of the secrets and techniques of growing this plant at home.

Gloxinia is a herbaceous perennial native to Brazil. Flowers can be of various shades, they are called bells, gramophones. If you want to have a healthy gloxinia, home care must be done according to the rules. Even a beginner can cope with the cultivation of a flower, if he tries.

Among the varietal variety, single-row and terry varieties with a velvety surface stand out. In addition, the flowers themselves are not always the same color palette, most often they have several shades. You can create a real Garden of Eden on the window!

• Drainage and soil are placed in a pre-disinfected bowl. A recess is made, planting material is placed in it with the sprout up. When filling up the soil, you need to ensure that the growth part is free. By planting gloxinia with a tuber, you can quickly get a new plant.

Reproduction of gloxinia at home

There are several ways to reproduce a flower, each of them has its own characteristics.

Breeding methods:

• Vegetative - tubers and its parts, cuttings, leaves, leaf cuttings
• Seed.

Vegetative propagation

Consider how to propagate gloxinia vegetatively in more detail.

1. Reproduction by cuttings

When propagating gloxinia at home, you can use leaf cuttings, which are taken only from a healthy flower. A young leaf can be planted directly in the ground or germinated in water:

The cut stalk is left in the air for 50 minutes, then placed in a transparent glass. Water should be warm and clean. Accelerate the root formation of charcoal. You can use growth promoters. The appearance of roots is a signal for planting.

How to propagate gloxinia with a leaf that germinates in the ground. First, the soil is prepared from sand, peat, deciduous soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 1. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the tank, soil is placed on top. The earth needs to be heavily shed. Gloxinia leaf is placed vertically, a glass jar is on top. A constant temperature of + 22-25 degrees should be maintained. Germination lasts less than a month.

1. Using part of a leaf to get a new plant

Gloxinia can reproduce with a leaf blade petiole. Veins are cut on the sheet, laid on the ground. It is necessary not to press the petioles strongly, a greenhouse is installed on top. With proper care, several small gloxinias are obtained from one sheet plate. Small nodules should be planted in prepared containers.

1. Peduncles - a good planting material

After flowering gloxinia, flower stalks remain. This is an excellent breeding material for gloxinia. The peduncle must be cut and placed in water for rooting. And planting is carried out in the usual way, as with leaf propagation.

1. We divide the tuber

Reproduction of gloxinia by tuber division is the most common method. As a rule, several sprouts appear on it. When dividing, pay attention to the presence of two shoots in each part. After cutting, the resulting planting material is sprinkled with charcoal. Each piece is planted separately. So that the plantings do not stretch out, they are left without watering for a couple of days. But this method has a negative side, the occurrence of fungal diseases is possible.

1. Have you tried stepchildren?

Stepchildren appear after the plant has faded twice. From them, too, you can grow a healthy flower. They need to be rooted in water. Gloxinia grown in this way bloom in the same year.

seed propagation

Seeds can be sown from November to February. It is not necessary to thicken the crops, as well as to deepen. Good seedlings are obtained by creating favorable conditions. Elongated material can create problems when transplanting. Therefore, the bowl with seedlings must be rotated daily. When the planting material is ready, it must be dived, moreover, this operation is carried out several times, not allowing the seedlings to stretch.

Growing problems

We talked about how to properly care for a beautiful plant with velvety leaves and bluebell flowers. But gloxinia, like other indoor flowers, have problems from time to time. Florists, especially beginners, need to know what to do.

Sometimes leaves begin to curl on the flower. The appearance of the plant becomes unpleasant. If the leaves of the gloxinia are twisted, then most likely the room is cold or dry, or the plant is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers. This problem is easily solved. Curling leaves appear when harmful insects settle on them. Will have to resort to pesticide treatment. Leaflets of any size can be wrapped.

No less worried about the question of why gloxinia does not bloom. There are many reasons too. Among the most common mistakes in organizing gloxinia care are lack of lighting, too large a pot. The presence of pests, improper watering, uncomfortable temperatures can also leave you without beautiful multi-colored gramophones.

Grow gloxinia, it gives considerable pleasure.