Magnolia susan. Hybrid magnolia Susan (Susan, Suzanne, Susan): photo, variety description, frost resistance

Magnolia "Suzan"

In 1955-1956, several varieties of beautiful magnolia were grown in the USA by crossing lily magnolia (m.liliflora) and star magnolia (m.stellata). The result is medium to tall plants that bloom later than regular spring magnolias and therefore avoid the frequent late spring frosts that destroy buds and flowers. All these hybrids received girlish names as names and differ in the shape and color of the flowers.

Magnolia 'Susan' flowers are lily-shaped or slender tulip-shaped, deep pink to red on the outside and light on the inside, and rarely open at the end of flowering, such as the Betty variety. This is the most colorful spring magnolia. Blooms at the ends of last year's shoots, very abundant, even if the plant is still young.

Even after flowering, the magnolia remains very attractive due to its dense foliage, which retains a rich color in summer. green color. We do not recommend pruning, but if there is a need to form a young plant, then pruning should be done in the spring, immediately after flowering.

Deciduous magnolias require moist, moderately acidic or neutral soil and planting in full sun or partial shade. They have shallow roots that collect nutrients mainly from the topsoil, so you need to pay attention when planting to powder quality peat over magnolia roots, possibly with the addition of soluble long-acting fertilizers. Magnolia should not be planted too deep - this can kill the plant. For landing, choose a place where you will not dig or dig anything within a radius of 2 meters from the magnolia - this beauty is quite selfish and does not like to be disturbed by her roots, which she spreads widely around her. The plant is completely cold hardy. Due to the large flowers and leaves, we advise you to plant it in a place protected from the wind and mulch the roots so that it does not lose moisture at any time of the year.

Frost-resistant from -27 to -29 ° C.

Charming magnolia hybrid Susan belongs to the group of late hybrids, the flowering of the plant begins in early May and lasts until June. Vibrant lavender-pink flowers appear on graceful branches before the leaves open.

The diameter of one flower can reach 12 cm, but it is worth buying Susan hybrid magnolia not only because of the beauty of the flowers, but also for the inexpressible fragrance that spreads around the tree in spring. The aroma of magnolia is so bright and strong that the tree is full of extraordinary charm.

Magnolia Susan: Growing Basics

You can order an amazing Susan magnolia in our store, but first you need to figure out what kind of care a spectacular tree will require:

Lighting - equally well grows in partial shade and in the sun.
Wind protection - seedlings should be planted away from windy places.
The soil is light, fertile, permeable. To maintain moisture, the soil is best mulched with bark. coniferous trees.

The frost resistance of the plant is high, without shelter, magnolia can endure maintenance at a temperature of -30C.

Magnolia Susan in a garden landscape

A slender tree looks great in the garden at any time of the year: in winter, branches of the tree create an exquisite pattern against the sky, in spring, bright numerous flowers give magnolia charm. They use culture to create group and single compositions, magnolias planted in long alleys look especially impressive. The tree is suitable for creating hedges.

Magnolia (lat. Magnolia)- a genus of flowering plants of the Magnolia family, which includes more than 200 species. The first magnolias came to Europe in 1688, and the name of the genus was given in 1703 by Charles Plumier in honor of the botanist Pierre Magnol. Members of the genus grow in tropical and subtropical climates. East Asia and North America. Magnolia is an ancient flowering plant of the dinosaur era that spread in the Cretaceous and Tertiary periods. Archaeologists have discovered a fossilized magnolia flower that is 95,000,000 years old. And by how easily magnolia today adapts to a climate that can hardly be called warm, it becomes clear how it has been able to survive for so many centuries. In those days when there were no bees yet, magnolias were pollinated by beetles - they have retained this ability to this day.

There is a beautiful and sad legend about magnolia: a Japanese girl named Keiko made a living by creating paper flowers that were beautiful, but, alas, cost a penny. One day, a parrot, whom she fed from time to time, revealed to her a secret: paper flowers can be revived if they are irrigated with a drop of their blood. However, in no case should this drop be the last. Using this secret, the girl became rich, but her greedy lover forced her to work more and more so that he could live in idleness and luxury. One day, Keiko gave her last drop of blood to a paper flower and died... The flower animated by this drop was called magnolia. Since then, the magnolia flower has symbolized the nobility and generosity of the soul.

Planting and caring for magnolia (in brief)

Bloom: early spring, some species - early summer.
Landing: mid to late October or April.
Lighting: bright sunlight, partial shade is possible for several hours.
The soil: light, moderately moist, rich in organic matter, slightly acidic or neutral reaction.
Watering: regular, even permanent: the soil under the magnolia should be slightly damp all the time. Regular watering is especially important for seedlings under the age of three years.
Top dressing: Fertilizers applied during planting are enough for two years. From the third season, complex mineral-organic top dressings must be applied with early spring until the middle of summer. For example: a solution of 15 g of urea, 1 kg of mullein and 20 g ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of water - such a fertilizer in the amount of 40 liters is applied instead of watering once a month.
Pruning: there is no need to form a magnolia crown, and sanitary pruning is carried out after flowering.
Reproduction: usually cuttings, layering, grafting. For breeding experiments, you can use the seed method.
Pests: rose thrips, mealybugs, peach aphids, spider or transparent mites, rodents.
Diseases: chlorosis, seedling rot, powdery mildew, gray mold, black fungus, botrytis and scab.

Magnolia - description

The magnolia plant can be a deciduous tree or shrub with brown or ash gray bark that is smooth, furrowed, or scaly. In height, magnolia can reach from 5 to 20 m. Large scars from leaves and narrow annular scars from stipules are noticeable on its shoots. Magnolia buds are large, as are entire, leathery, emerald green leaves with pinnate venation and slight pubescence from below, which are mostly obovate or elliptical in shape. Single fragrant bisexual terminal or axillary flowers with a diameter of about 6 to 35 cm, white, cream, pink, red, lilac or purple, consist of 6-12 elongated wax petals tiled overlapping each other, arranged in one or more rows. Magnolia blooms in early spring, but some species bloom in early summer. Anyone who has seen a magnolia bloom will definitely want to grow this tree in their garden.

The magnolia fruit is a composite cone-shaped leaflet, consisting of many one- or two-seeded leaflets. Magnolia seeds, triangular, black, with a fleshy pink or red seed, hang on the seed threads when the leaflets open.

The magnolia tree, like the magnolia bush, is highly ornamental plant. It is especially beautiful in the spring: blooming magnolia- a spectacle that will be remembered forever. But magnolia is valued not only for its beauty: its flowers, fruits, leaves and even bark contain essential oils, which are a unique antiseptic for rheumatism, hypertension and diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.

Planting magnolia in the garden

When to Plant Magnolia

Magnolia does not grow everywhere, but if your area is suitable for growing it, then plant it in a sunny area, protected from the north and east winds, away from large trees so that no shadow falls on it: slight shading is only permissible in southern regions. Magnolia also has requirements for the composition of the soil: it should not be highly calcareous or saline, too wet, heavy or sandy. Neutral and slightly acidic soils rich in organic matter are considered optimal. When buying planting material, give preference to a seedling about 1 m high with one or two buds and with a closed root system so that it does not dry out while waiting for planting. Seedlings whose root system is in a container can be planted in open ground in spring, summer, and autumn.

As for the timing of landing, most experts believe best time for this, autumn is from mid to late October, when the magnolia seedlings are already at rest. At autumn planting almost 100% of seedlings take root. Magnolia planting in the spring is carried out in April, but it must be borne in mind that even minor return frosts can greatly harm the trees that have started to grow.

How to plant a magnolia

When preparing a planting pit, it should be borne in mind that its size should be at least twice the volume of the root system of the seedling. The soil of the upper fertile layer removed from the pit should be mixed with rotted compost, and if the soil is too dense, add some sand to it.

Lay a layer of drainage material in the hole - crushed stone, broken brick or crushed ceramic tiles- 15-20 cm thick, then place a layer of sand about 15 cm thick on top, and on it - a layer of prepared fertile mixture. Place a magnolia seedling in the center of the hole so that the root collar after planting is 3-5 cm above the surface. Fill the remaining space in the hole with soil, lightly tamp the surface, and water the plant liberally. When the water is absorbed, mulch the trunk circle of the magnolia seedling with peat, and on top of it with dry bark of conifers to prevent the soil from evaporating moisture too quickly.

Magnolia care in the garden

Growing Magnolia

Magnolia moisture is needed constantly. Especially in need of regular and abundant watering seedlings aged from one to three years. The soil in the trunk circle should be moist, but not wet, and the water for irrigation should be warm. It is only necessary to loosen the soil in the near-trunk circle with a pitchfork and very carefully, since the magnolia has a superficial root system that is easily damaged by garden tools. Therefore, it is recommended that the trunk circles of magnolias be mulched.

Growing magnolia involves the introduction of fertilizers into its near-stem circle. Trees up to two years old have enough nutrition laid in the soil during planting, and with three years of age you need to start feeding. Fertilize magnolia in the first half of the growing season. As a top dressing, you can use ready-made mineral complexes, the packaging of which indicates the required dosage, but you can make top dressing yourself: dissolve 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of urea and 1 kg of mullein in 10 liters of water. To feed one adult tree, you will need 40 liters of this solution. Bring it instead of watering once a month. Keep in mind that magnolia is easy to overfeed, and if you find that its leaves begin to dry prematurely, stop fertilizing and increase watering when watering.

magnolia transplant in the garden

Magnolia does not tolerate transplanting very well, but if you have such a need, do everything as she likes: find the most suitable place, taking into account the growth dynamics of magnolia. Before digging up the plant, be sure to water it well and remember that the larger the earthen ball on the roots of the plant, the easier it will take root. Magnolia is dragged to a new place on a piece of oilcloth or a sheet of plywood. Transplantation is carried out in the same order as the primary planting: first, a spacious pit is prepared, drainage, sand, and some fertile soil are placed in it, and then a magnolia is placed in the center of the pit and the free space is filled with earth, leaving the root neck of the plant above the surface of the plot. You do not need to compact the soil around the plant much, just lightly press it with your hands.

After transplantation, abundant watering is carried out, and then the trunk circle is mulched. If the transplant was carried out in the autumn, for the winter in the near-stem circle you need to pour a mound of dry earth - this measure will protect the root system of the plant from freezing. The trunk and branches of a transplanted tree are wrapped with a cloth for the winter.

pruning magnolia

Magnolia does not need formative pruning in the garden, and sanitary cleaning is carried out only after flowering: shoots frozen in winter, wilted flowers, dry and thickening branches are removed. Fresh cuts need to be treated with garden pitch. Do not prune magnolia in the spring, as all plants of this genus are characterized by intense sap flow and can die from wounds.

Pests and diseases of magnolia

For a long time it was believed that magnolia is immune to diseases and pests and suffers from completely different problems. For example, sometimes yellow spots begin to appear on its leaves - chlorosis. In this case, the veins of the leaves remain green. This is a signal that there is a lot of lime in the soil, and the magnolia root system in such an environment develops poorly and dies. In this case, you need to add acidic peat or coniferous soil to the soil. And you can use to restore the required level of acidity commercially available chemicals eg iron chelate.

Slows down the growth and development of magnolia oversaturation of the soil with fertilizers, because from excess nutrients salinization occurs. It is possible to determine that too much fertilizer has accumulated in the roots by the edges of the old leaves of the plant that dry out already at the end of July. Stop fertilizing and increase water consumption when watering.

From insects, magnolia thrips, mealybugs and peach aphids can harm magnolia, and during the dry period, spider or transparent mites can settle on the plant. All these pests suck the juices out of the magnolia, weakening the plant. From this, the leaves from the tree begin to fall off already in July or August. Sucking pests sometimes weaken the magnolia so much that it almost does not grow the next year. In addition, they carry incurable viral diseases. It is necessary to fight ticks, thrips, worms and aphids with acaricides - treating the tree with a solution of Aktellik, Aktara or a similar drug.

AT winter time magnolia can suffer from rodents eating the roots and root neck of the tree, but you will only know about this if you remove the top layer of soil. If bites are found, treat them with a one percent solution of Fundazol and continue to cover the near-stem circle for the winter only after the top layer of soil freezes. In this case, the rodents will not get to the roots.

Of the diseases in our climate, fungal infections can affect magnolia: seedling rot, powdery mildew, gray mold, soot fungus, botrytis and scab. These diseases can be dealt with if they are detected in time and measures are taken immediately: reduce watering and treat the plant with a fungicide solution. It is possible that the processing will have to be carried out repeatedly. And from bacterial spotting, magnolia is treated with copper sulphate.

Magnolia reproduction

How to propagate magnolia

Magnolia is propagated by seed and vegetative methods - cuttings, layering and grafting, but only vegetative way allows you to get hereditarily identical plants. In fairness, it should be said that generative propagation contributes to the development of new varieties, varieties or forms, moreover, this method is the easiest to perform.

Magnolia seeds ripen in September. Spread the collected seeds on paper, shake out the seeds from them and fill them with water for 2-3 days, then rub through a sieve to free them from the seeds. To remove oily deposits from the seeds, wash them in soapy water and then rinse thoroughly in running water. Pack the dried seeds in a plastic bag with wet sand or sphagnum (1: 4) and store until sowing in the refrigerator on the middle shelf for at least 20 days - the seeds must be stratified.

Before sowing, remove the seeds from the refrigerator, disinfect them in a fungicide solution and place them in damp moss for a while so that they peck. Of the stratified seeds, more than half germinate, but if the seeds are not prepared, there will be much less seedlings.

Magnolia seeds are sown in grooves 2 cm deep and covered with a layer of soil 1 cm thick. Since magnolia has a tap root system, the seedling container must be at least 30 cm deep. Seedlings are transplanted into open ground by transshipment when the threat of return frosts has passed. For the winter, they are covered “with their heads” with dry peat.

Reproduction of magnolia cuttings

It is necessary to harvest cuttings for reproduction of magnolia from young plants, before the buds bloom on the tree. The ideal cutting should be green on top and woody on the bottom. Planted cuttings in late June or early July in a greenhouse, where it will be possible to control the temperature and humidity of the air and soil. Sand or a mixture of sand with peat, perlite and vermiculite is used as a substrate. Rooting should take place at a temperature of 20-24 ºC, and then the appearance of roots in the cuttings can be expected in five to seven weeks. Large-flowered magnolia cuttings take twice as long to root. Try to be strict temperature regime, since at a lower temperature the process will proceed much more slowly, and at temperatures above 26 ºC, the cuttings will die. During the entire period of grafting, the greenhouse must be ventilated, and the soil must be kept moist.

Propagation of magnolia by layering

Shrub magnolias are propagated by layering: in the spring, a low-growing branch of the plant is pulled at the base with soft copper wire, bent down, fixed and poured a small mound of earth at the attachment point. The process of root formation will go faster if you make an annular incision at the place where the branch is in contact with the soil.

Magnolia can also be propagated by air layering. In late spring or early summer, make a circular cut of the bark 2-3 cm wide on the branch of your choice. Try to do this carefully so as not to damage the magnolia wood. Treat the cut with Heteroauxin, cover the wound with wet moss and wrap with cling film, fixing it above and below the cut. Then tie the branch to neighboring branches so that when strong wind she received no damage. Keep the moss moist: spray it several times a month, piercing the film with a syringe of water. After two or three months, roots form at the cut site. In autumn, the cuttings are cut off from the branch and grown at home.

Magnolia after flowering

Magnolia care after flowering

Magnolia blooms in spring or early summer and is a sight to behold: magnolia in bloom is the queen among garden trees. And when this holiday is over, you have to do sanitary pruning of the tree: remove wilted flowers, broken ones, dead in winter from frost and branches and shoots growing inside the crown. But even without flowers, magnolia is decorative due to its beautiful leathery leaves.

magnolia in winter

When deep autumn comes and the garden begins to fall asleep, your task is to prepare a shelter for the magnolia, because even the most winter-hardy species of this genus can suffer from frost, especially in windy and snowless winters. To avoid frost cracks, wrap the trunk of the tree with two layers of burlap, being careful not to damage the fragile branches. Then, after waiting for real frosts, cover the trunk circle with thick mulch. Now your beauty will not be afraid of frost, mice or other rodents.

Types and varieties of magnolia

The largest collections of magnolias are collected in the UK: in the Arnold Arboretum introduction center and in the Royal botanical garden. But there is also an excellent collection in Kyiv, and it is the Ukrainian experience of growing magnolias that gives hope for the promotion of this plant to the east and north. The most common types of magnolia in cultivation are:

- deciduous tree up to 10 m high, but more often a tall shrub with broadly elliptical leaves up to 15 cm long and fragrant cup-shaped, somewhat drooping white flowers on a pubescent thin pedicel. The diameter of the flowers is from 7 to 10 cm. This is one of the most winter-hardy species, tolerating short-term frosts down to -36 ºC. Cultivated since 1865;

or magnolia white flower comes from Japan and the island of Kunashir, in the Kuriles. This is a deciduous tree with a gray, smooth bark, reaching a height of 15 m. The leaves of this magnolia are collected in 8-10 pieces at the ends of the shoots, and the beautiful flowers up to 16 cm in diameter, creamy white in color, are distinguished by a spicy aroma. Fruits of bright red color reach a length of 20 cm. This tree is decorative at any time of the year, it tolerates shading and frost well, but it is demanding on the level of soil and air moisture. Cultivated since 1865;

- a plant originally from China, an analogue of obovate magnolia, but with larger leaves. Her flowers are also large, fragrant, reminiscent of water lilies, but with narrower petals pointed towards the top. In China, this species is used as medicinal plant, and in our area magnolia officinalis is still rare;

or magnolia cucumber from the central part of North America, where it grows in deciduous forests at the foot of the mountains and along the rocky banks of mountain rivers. This is a deciduous tree up to 30 m high with a pyramidal crown at a young age, which becomes rounded over time. The leaves are oval or elliptical, up to 24 cm long, dark green above and grayish green, shortly pubescent below. Flowers up to 8 cm in diameter are bell-shaped and yellow-green, sometimes with a bluish bloom, color. It is the most cold-resistant member of the genus. Cucumber magnolia has a form in which the leaves are either round or heart-shaped at the base, and the flowers are smaller than the main species and canary in color. In the United States, hybrids have also been obtained between pointed magnolia and lily-colored magnolia, united under the name Brooklyn magnolia;

- one of the most elegant and spectacular magnolias comes from Japan. This is a small tree or shrub up to 2.5 m high with bare gray-brown branches, narrow elliptical leaves up to 12 cm long and original flowers up to 10 cm in diameter with numerous snow-white, elongated ribbon-like petals directed in all directions, like the rays of a star. . This species has two decorative forms: pink and kei. Some varieties and hybrids of this plant are also popular among gardeners:

Magnolia Susan- a variety with flowers of a dark purple-red hue on the outside and lighter on the inside. This variety is part of a series of hybrids with female names- Judy, Betty, Anna, Pinky, Randy, Jane and Ricky - which was bred in the 50s of the last century.

widely distributed in culture. It is supposedly originally from eastern China, and the plant came to Europe in 1790. Lily magnolia blooms profusely with lily-shaped flowers up to 11 cm in diameter. The flowers are purple on the outside, white on the inside, they have a barely perceptible aroma. Of greatest interest is the decorative form of this type of magnolia Nigre (Nigra) with ruby-red outside and white-lilac inside flowers that open in late April or early May;

originally from northern and central Japan and South Korea, and in 1862 the species was transported to New York, from where it came to Europe in 1879. In culture, the plant reaches a height of 10 m, but in nature it can grow two and a half times higher. The leaves of the tree are broad, obovate, with a sharp apex, bright green above and lighter below. This magnolia is white, fragrant, with flowers up to 10 cm in diameter. The plant blooms in the ninth or twelfth year. The species is characterized by frost resistance, gas and dust resistance. The northern form of the species is a plant with larger flowers and even more resistant to low temperatures;

comes from the southeastern states of North America. She has a slender cylindrical trunk, a beautifully shaped crown, dark green, large shiny leaves and white flowers up to 25 cm in diameter, with a strong spicy aroma. Even the fruits of this plant are attractive: the original cone-like shape, brightly colored and very showy. At a young age, magnolia grandiflora develops slowly, growing annually by only 60 cm. It does not differ in frost resistance, withstanding colds of at least -15 ºC, but it copes well with urban conditions, is resistant to diseases and pests and is durable. The main decorative forms of large-flowered magnolia are:

angustifolia- a plant with narrower leaves than the main species;
lanceolate- a plant with elongated leaves;
famous- magnolia with very wide leaves and flowers with a diameter of up to 35 cm;
round-leaved- this plant has very dark green leaves and flowers up to 15 cm in diameter;
early- magnolia, blooming earlier than the main species;
exonian- a tall tree with a narrow pyramidal crown shape and oblong leaves pubescent from below;
Praverty- magnolia with a strictly pyramidal crown;
Hartvisa- a tree with a pyramidal crown and wavy leaves;
dragon- a plant with a low crown, the branches of which, hanging in an arcuate manner, touch the ground and take root easily;
gallison- magnolia of higher winter hardiness than the main species.

Magnolia Sulange (Magnolia x soulangeana)

- a hybrid bred in 1820 by the French scientist Etienne Soulange. Since then, more than 50 forms of this hybrid have been registered and are incredibly popular all over the world. Magnolia Sulange is a deciduous shrub or tree up to 5 m high with obovate leaves up to 15 cm long and goblet flowers with a diameter of 15 to 25 cm, sometimes fragrant, and sometimes completely odorless, with petals from pale pink to purple, and only occasionally there are specimens with white flowers. The plant is resistant to adverse climatic factors and grows well on soils of different composition. Of the many garden forms of this hybrid species, the following are most often grown:

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Magnolia hybrid Susan /Susan (purple)

Magnoliahybrid Susan/ Susan

Magnolia hybrida/hybrids Susan

One of the many later hybrids obtained by crossing lily-colored magnolia with star magnolia (M. liliiflora + M. stellata). Susan is especially good among the varieties of this group. Already a young plant, it blooms very profusely and for an unusually long time - from late April to June. One of the most popular varieties of magnolias.

The form: Dense shrub, initially cone-shaped, rounded with age.

Height: up to 2-3.5 m in height.

Leaves: dark green, obovate or oval, 6-10 cm long.

Annual Growth: about 20 cm.

Kidneys: dark purple.

Flowers: narrowly calyx, bell-shaped, up to 15 cm in diameter, purple, lighter inside and at the ends, sharply fragrant. Blooms at the end of April. They bloom before or simultaneously with the leaves. There are only 6 petal-shaped tepals in the flower, 10-15 cm long. An amazing sight that attracts all guests, neighbors and passers-by.

Petals: often twisted. Blooms profusely and for a long time in late May - early June.

Magnolia planting and care: Prefers sunny sheltered places. The south side of the house is the best place.

Soils: fresh, fertile, permeable, soils. For the climate of the Kyiv region, annual mulching with finely crushed coniferous bark is a must.

It is better to buy Susan magnolia seedlings in Ukraine (acclimatized) in a plastic container with fertilizers, so the plant is not dug up with inevitable damage to the root system and is guaranteed to take root after planting.

Usage: a valuable variety for small gardens.

Zone: 6b- winter-hardy in Ukraine with normal care. It is better to cover young plants for the winter with a white spunbond using a primitive pyramidal frame of three guides connected at the top.

For three years of working with magnolias, we have discovered many secrets of this plant, which was not available to us before. Each buyer who buys a magnolia from the PROXIMA nursery receives detailed professional advice on planting and care.

You can buy Magnolia Susan in Kyiv at low prices in the PROXIMA plant nursery.
Read more: planting, watering, care, fertilization, protection, mulching, shearing - with photos in the "Planting, care" section.

Often, gardeners call magnolia the most aristocratic tree, and this is not in vain. Seeing a magnolia with its beautiful leaves, large and fragrant flowers, you are unlikely to confuse it with another plant. Currently, there are more than 100 varieties of magnolia trees and shrubs.

Magnolias are bushes and trees from 2 meters high. The foliage is elliptical or obovate in shape. Large bisexual flowers reach a diameter of 20-25 cm, usually placed one at a time at the very edge of the shoot. The color can be anything - white, pink, cream, purple, yellow, purple - it all depends on the variety you choose. From the flowers comes a pleasant delicate aroma.

It is customary to divide magnolias into two types: evergreen and deciduous.

evergreens grow in warmer areas where the temperature difference in winter is less significant.

In the middle lane, open field, grown as a rule deciduous varieties of magnolia .

Mostly early flowering varieties: Kobus (lat. Kobus), Magnolia Lebner (lat. Magnolia loebneri) - hybrid m agnolia Z starry (lat. Magnolia stellata) and Kobus., Sulange magnolia (lat. Soulangiana) they begin to wake up at the end of March (when the air temperature begins to stay at +10 degrees). Then the first buds appear (mid-April). When the temperature regime exceeds 15-25 degrees, magnolias will begin to bloom abundantly, which will amaze you with its beauty and aroma.

In mid-May, the following flowers begin to bloom varieties: Watson (lat. Watson), Wilson (lat. Wilson), Siebold (lat. Sieboldii) and Ash (lat. Ashei). The flowers of these varieties of magnolia bloom one at a time, which significantly prolongs the flowering process, unlike blooming in early spring.

The duration of flowering cannot be determined exactly, because each species has its own biological characteristics, age. Changing factors include climatic conditions and care.

Magnolia varieties for the Moscow region

Many varieties are quite hardy, so they can be grown without much difficulty in the Moscow region following our recommendations.

The most persistent varieties - Kobus (lat. Kobus), Lebner (lat. Loebneri kache).

Relatively persistent varieties - Wilson (lat. Wilson), Siebold (lat. Sieboldii) and Ash (lat. Ashei).

Even in severe frost, only some buds freeze slightly in these varieties, which does not harm the entire tree as a whole. The longer the magnolia is in central Russia, the higher its winter hardiness, a couple of years after planting the magnolia, shelter for the winter is no longer required.

Do not worry if in the first years after planting the plant blooms for only 7-12 days, while the flowers are very rare - this is the norm for a plant that is still adapting to the climatic zone of the Moscow region. It will take another couple of years, and your magnolia will please the eye with its flowering for 30 days!

Choice of time and place of landing

Disembarkation time

If you bought magnolia in a container or pot, you can repot it from mid-March to the end of September. The method of planting a plant from a pot (container) is most preferable, because. it is planted with a small amount of soil to which it is accustomed. In this case, the adaptation of the plant is much faster.

Place to land

Before planting a plant, you need to study the microclimate of the garden or area where you are going to plant magnolia. Lighting plays a huge role in the successful cultivation of magnolias. As you know, these plants are quite thermophilic, but young plants cannot stand the scorching sun at noon: the result of "overheating" can be light yellow leaves.

If you plant a magnolia in a less sunny place, then the level of green pigment increases. That is why, the plant should be planted in the shade of another tree. In the image above, a magnolia tree was planted in the floor of the shade of pines, a good solution, the pines will not only give the floor a shadow, but also slightly acidify the soil with their fallen needles.

As far as air pollution is concerned, the varieties Kobus (lat. Kobus) and Magnolia Soulange (lat. Soulangiana) do an excellent job with a large percentage of emissions from enterprises and car exhaust.

General landing rules

Magnolia should be planted in light and slightly moist soil.

The composition of the soil should include sod land, peat and compost in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, respectively.

In order not to spoil the root system, you should dig a hole three times the size of the roots. Do not compact the ground from above, so as not to harm the roots.

The soil under the seedling must be covered with coniferous bark - this technique will help maintain the water balance in the soil.

To prevent the roots from drying out when planting, be sure to buy seedlings in special containers.

Care and preparation for winter

Magnolia is a very rare plant in central Russia and many will tell you that it is impossible to grow it, and if it does, it will cause a lot of trouble. - Do not believe!

If you have chosen the right places for planting a plant and planted it in the “right” soil, then the first flowers will appear on it very quickly.

Magnolia should not be transplanted from one place to another.

Soil loosening

Watering

if the summer turned out to be very dry, do not forget about watering the bush. It should be watered once every 2-3 days (about 2 buckets of soft water with a low level of lime in the composition). Do not overdo it - if a swamp has formed around the tree, you should stop watering until the soil is completely dry.

top dressing

during the period of leaf growth, magnolia is fertilized with a mineral complex, but not earlier than two years after planting, this will allow the leaves to grow much faster and fight the weather.

The composition of the fertilizer per 10 liters of water: 15 g of urea (urea) + 20 g of ammonium nitrate + 1 kg of mullein. Fertilizer consumption for one medium-sized tree is 30 liters.

You can use ready-made fertilizers, such as Agrecool or "Kemira - Universal"(applied according to the instructions).

The last top dressing is done at the beginning of the second half of summer (July 15), because very soon the plant goes into calm mode and begins to prepare for winter.

pruning

the plant does not need to cut off excess branches. Dried branches should be removed at the end of flowering.

If the plant has branches that cross inside the crown, it is best to remove them immediately to improve the decorative effect and accelerate the growth of neighboring branches.

Preparing for winter

within 2-3 years after planting, be sure to cover the roots of the plant with straw, coniferous branches or sawdust with peat. In the first 2-3 years, the trunk should be wrapped with agro-cloth up to the first or second tier of skeletal branches, as in the image below.

It will also not be superfluous to cover the tree from the cold winter winds with the same agricultural fabric, wrapping its plant around and securing it with thread, wire or an ordinary stapler, this method shown in the bottom photo.

Pests

these plants are not afraid of insects and other pests, so there are no “special secrets” for protecting trees.

For residents of the Moscow region and nearby regions, magnolia is a very rare plant. And all because, due to unreliable rumors, we consider her very thermophilic and vulnerable.

In fact, magnolia is one of the most beautiful plants with excellent endurance, including temperature extremes. middle lane Russia.

Now, having learned about the main features of planting and care and having read our guide to action, you can safely experiment in growing magnolia in the Moscow region.