Today, furniture items made with my own hands are very popular. After all, it is in them that the master can embody all his original ideas that will help decorate and make the interior of the home individual. In this regard, the question arises, how to make.
A furniture shield can be purchased at a hardware store, or you can make it yourself, while saving money.
Many people who have never been involved in gluing boards believe that there is nothing complicated in this process and the technology of work is quite simple. But gluing shields is far from simple work containing many features.
The quality of a furniture board is influenced not only by the material and its texture, but also by the skill of the craftsman to combine the pattern of wood, the accuracy of the joint and the quality of the glue.
Properly prepared shields have the following characteristics:
- preserve the natural texture and pattern of wood;
- do not shrink, deform or crack;
- are an environmentally friendly material;
- regardless of the size of the blanks, the shields can have any required dimensions.
Material selection and preparation
Having decided to make any piece of furniture, you need to choose the right material. Typically, furniture panels are used in production, having a thickness of 2 cm (or 20 mm). This means that at home it is necessary to make blanks of a similar thickness. This is where the difficulties begin: boards with a total thickness of 20 mm are not suitable for gluing a shield. Even the most ideal wood when gluing will require additional processing. It will need to be cut or sanded. Therefore, the boards must be taken with a margin.
The best option for the manufacture of furniture panels is boards with a thickness of 2.5 cm. An allowance of 0.5 cm is removed in 2 steps: when processing surface defects before gluing and when finishing after it. Thus, the workpiece is brought to a thickness of 2 cm.
When choosing a material, you should immediately abandon warped or uneven wood. It is better to cut blanks from a massive board with a thickness of at least 5 cm: sawing it lengthwise into 2 parts, you will get boards with the same color and texture. You also need to pay attention to the length of the blanks. It should have a margin of 2 to 5 cm, which will allow high-quality processing of the end sections of the glued panels.
To make the material with your own hands at home, you need to prepare the usual carpentry tools:
The device of the machine for gluing workpieces.
- planer or jointer;
- surface grinders and belt grinders;
- coarse sandpaper;
- level;
- corner;
- machine for gluing workpieces.
You will also need to prepare the wood from which the bars will be cut. It is better if these are wood species such as pine, aspen, birch or oak. Each furniture board is made from bars of the same breed. Typically, the dimensions of the bars have a ratio of width and thickness of 1:1, but other dimensions, for example, 1:3, can be used.
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Algorithm and manufacturing rules
After the material has been prepared, its surface must be carefully sanded, and then the wood should be cut into bars of the required size. Cuts must be made strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. If any defects or irregularities form, the shield will fail. In some cases, small distortions can be eliminated with a planer or jointer.
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Combination of elements
An extremely important stage is the combination of blanks in color, texture and pattern. There is no need to hurry here, it is necessary to match the bars to each other as accurately as possible. A properly glued shield should be of the same uniform color, with a continuous pattern across the entire width. If parallel lines of the pattern pass along one edge of the workpiece, they must also pass along the other edge of the product.
In the case when the bars are glued incorrectly, the inverted shield looks like a fence made of separate boards. To prevent this from happening, you must try to choose wood for the product with a straight, and not a curvilinear or oval arrangement of fibers. In addition, close attention must be paid to the orientation of annual rings on wood cuts. They are arranged according to two main principles:
Each wood has its own shade, so it is very important to choose the right color for each board.
- plots (boards from which the furniture board is made) alternate in the direction of the rings;
- the plots are glued together so that all the rings look in the same direction.
In the first case, the surface of the shield after manufacturing has a slightly wavy pattern resembling numerous deflections. With the second method, the pattern resembles one large deflection. This manufacturing method can be used when working with hard and stable woods, such as cherry.
Orientation of annual rings should be taken into account in the manufacture of furniture for various purposes. So, when assembling countertops that experience little stress and almost do not warp, this factor may not be decisive. And in the manufacture door panels or massive tables that do not have reinforcing elements, preference should be given to assembly by alternating rings on bars.
After all the elements are matched to each other, they are marked with triangles. This allows you to fold the bars during gluing the way you intended.
Furniture made from natural wood, very expensive, so not everyone can afford it. And analogues such as MDF and chipboard are rather short-lived, so the shelf life of products reaches only a few years. The most acceptable and budget option is the manufacture of furniture from a furniture board. In addition to the fact that this material is quite durable, it also harmoniously fits into the interior of the room, regardless of the style direction of the design. But, unfortunately, due to the standard dimensions, the furniture board is not always suitable for the production of non-standard furniture models, so it is much easier to make it yourself. If you still decide, then our experts will tell you how to make a furniture board with your own hands at home.
What is a furniture board?
A furniture board is a type of wood-based material that is produced by gluing together planed timber made exclusively from wood. This material is characterized by a rather high strength and environmental friendliness, due to which it is equated to a solid wood. The difference lies only in a kind of chess pattern, which is obtained by connecting the bars. The furniture board is used not only for the manufacture of wooden furniture, but also in the finishing and construction sectors.
Important! Working with a furniture board requires at least basic carpentry skills and knowledge, since improper processing or use of this material can lead to deformation of the finished product.
Benefits of using a furniture board:
- Environmental friendliness. It is non-allergenic and does not emit toxic substances into the environment.
- The finished furniture looks very beautiful and is similar to products that are made from solid wood.
- Practicality. Even if there is any damage to the fittings, due to the homogeneity of the wood structure, it can be easily repaired.
- High service life of finished products.
- Due to the natural structure of the tree, aesthetic properties are improved.
- The formation of cracks, shrinkage and various defects during the operation of finished products from a furniture board is uncharacteristic.
- The ability to create a future piece of furniture of the desired size and model.
- Furniture made of this material regulates the level of air humidity and absorbs harmful substances.
Varieties of furniture boards
Depending on the manufacturing technology, the following types are distinguished:
- Whole type. Such a shield consists of spliced lamellae, the combination of which forms an integral surface. Because of its integrity and strength, this species is also called single-layer or massive. It is used exclusively for its manufacture. wooden slats, bars or boards. They are glued together only in the direction of the fibers. The thickness of the finished shield varies from 1.5 to 6 centimeters.
- Spliced type. This type is made exclusively from small bars, which are glued together along the length or width. The thickness of such a shield varies from 1.1 to 6 centimeters.
Important! In a spliced type furniture board, the number of middle layers should only be odd and with strict observance of symmetry during laying.
Also, depending on the quality of wood processing, furniture panels are divided into classes:
Important! In this case:
- Grade A - full imitation of the natural texture of wood;
- Grade B - surface uniformity, no defects;
- Grade C - the presence of small knots and mechanical damage.
The highest class provides for the complete absence of notches, various deformations and damaged areas on the surface. The furniture board of the middle class is characterized by a low price and the presence of a small number of knots on the surface. The low class is characterized by the use of low-quality wood and the presence of knots and surface defects.
Base materials
Before you glue the furniture board with your own hands, you should also take into account the type of wood that is used to make it:
- Pine. Due to the presence of a large amount of glue in the wood, the finished furniture board is highly durable and elastic.
- Oak. Such shields are intended for the production of lifting frames, as they have a fairly high strength. Because of their beautiful texture, they are ideal for making furniture. Its only drawback is the high price.
- Larch. Also suitable for further furniture making. It has a beautiful woody texture, a wide variety of different color shades. The most important advantage of this material is its high resistance to moisture, respectively, it is resistant to decay.
- Chipboard. Furniture panels made of this material are characterized by rather low strength, budget price and high exposure to moisture.
Important! A furniture board based on chipboard is not safe due to the presence of binder resins in this material.
How to make a wooden furniture board with your own hands?
The process of making a furniture board is quite simple, even at home. The most important thing is the presence the right tools and the ability to use them.
Required inventory
To work with wood, you should prepare the following tools and materials:
- Circular Saw;
- Drill;
- Milling machine;
- long ruler
- Electroplaner;
- Belt and surface grinding machines;
Important! If you do not have the opportunity to purchase these machines, then an emery cloth worn on a block will be their excellent analogue. A significant disadvantage of this method is the duration of the grinding process.
- gage;
- Roulette;
- clamps;
- Level;
- A hammer;
- Pencil;
- lumber;
- Glue for furniture boards;
- Plywood or thin slats.
Important! When choosing lumber for the manufacture of furniture panels, you should take boards with a thickness of 2.5 centimeters. This is due to the fact that they will be subject to grinding before gluing, due to which the width of the bar will decrease by 0.5 centimeters.
Step-by-step instructions for gluing a furniture board
After you have prepared the necessary equipment, you can proceed directly to work.
- Lay the boards in the desired position so that the annual rings are most optimally located. Cut off the ends of the boards.
Important! In order not to forget the correct layout of the boards, draw a triangle on the surface before parsing.
- Next comes the gluing process. In order for it to pass much faster, you can put the boards in a pack, smear several ends at once with glue.
Important! In order for the glue not to dry quickly, and for you to have more time to collect the workpiece, you can wrap the smeared areas with a plastic bag.
- Using a clamp, pull off the glued wood.
- Dry the finished workpiece and sand it, while removing traces of glue.
Important! To remove wood pile from the finished product, you can cover the surface with water, due to which it will rise and be easily removed during grinding.
The main methods of connecting shield plots
In order to deal with shield warping caused by sawn timber, you can use the following methods:
- Gluing lamellas on dowels or using finishing tips. This type of fastening is used to fix short boards. In this case, a tip with a tongue-and-groove assembly is used, which is connected flush with the lamellas.
Important! Depending on the further use of the product, the tip may protrude above one or both layers.
- If the future product will be in a room with high humidity, it is not worth connecting the workpiece with glue. It is best in this case to use rallying to compensate for the swelling of the wood.
- Depending on the future product, flashing strips can be used to manufacture the workpiece.
- Powerful coupling is used if the future product will be used in conditions of high humidity and with constant mechanical stress.
- Dowel bonding. This method requires the mandatory use of a drill stand and stop so that the holes are positioned with perfect accuracy. This is due to the fact that due to improper placement, the geometry of the future product will be violated.
Successful busy people must have hobbies. It relieves stress and reduces the risk of a heart attack. You can collect candy wrappers and coins, or you can do a serious craft. For example, glue a furniture board with your own hands. The process is not as complicated as it might seem, but it requires at least a minimal knowledge of the tool.
Tools and materials for the manufacture of furniture panels
- Circular Saw.
- Milling machine.
- Drill.
- A hammer.
- Electroplaner.
- Belt and surface grinders. You can clean the tree with an emery cloth by screwing it onto the block. True, it will take a little longer.
- Reismus.
- Clamps or homemade devices for pulling boards.
- Long metal ruler, pencil, tape measure.
- lumber.
- Plywood and thin slats for rallying the shield.
- Glue.
Preparatory work
First, let's decide what size furniture board we need in order to stock up on a sufficient amount of material. In any case, blanks must be longer and thicker than the final dimensions of the shield. We choose boards from a tree of the same species, dry and even, with a minimum of knots. You also need to know the basic properties of wood. We offer a small carpenter's dictionary, so as not to get confused in terms:
- Plast - wide longitudinal sides of the boards.
- Plots - separate bars, planks, sawn from a wide board.
- Lamels are solid, non-jointed blanks. In fact, the same as the plots.
- Curl - a random arrangement of wood fibers in the workpiece. Occurs when a board is sawn from a butt of a tree.
- Sapwood is the outer layer of wood just below the bark.
According to the advice of the old masters, how to make a furniture board good quality, plots are taken that have a ratio of width to thickness as 3x1. Such a lamella is stable, because internal stress there is not enough wood to split the lath. We have all seen boards cracked at the end. This is the case when material stress caused by improper drying splits the workpiece. So, first we dissolve the lumber into slats with a width of no more than 15 cm. In the process of sawing, at the same time we remove all defective sections of the boards.
Before assembling the shield, we take into account that the wood warps in different directions during shrinkage. The strongest - in the direction of annual rings (tangential direction), two times weaker - in the direction of the core lines (radial direction). We glue the sawn blanks in the order indicated on the very first photo:
Shields a and b: heartwood to heartwood, sapwood to sapwood. This will avoid warping when the shield shrinks, which reduces the strength of adhesive joints.
Shields c and d: we orient blanks with pronounced pilosity along the lines of annual rings, then the deformation of the finished shield will be much less.
Step-by-step instructions for making a furniture board
Methods for connecting plots in a shield
How to make a furniture board with your own hands so that in the future the wood retains its original stability? There are several ways to deal with shield buckling caused by sawn timber.
We glue the lamellas on the dowels (the lower shield in photo 6) or use the finishing tips, following the example of the drawing board. To fix short boards, we use a tip with a groove-comb assembly (upper shield in the photo), connected flush with the lamellas. The tip may have a protrusion over one (middle shield) or both layers, depending on the purpose of the product.
If the furniture board is intended to be used in conditions of constant fluctuations in humidity, it would be better not to glue the boards. Compensation of wood with frequent swelling is achieved different ways rallying plots. The upper shield in photo 7 is connected in a quarter, the middle one in a quarter with chamfering from the upper edges. The boards of the lower shield are also cohesive in a quarter, but with a selection of profiled edges on the front side.
Another type of conjugation of plots without the use of glue is the use of flashing strips. The upper shield in photo 8 is pulled together with a regular rail, the middle one - with a profiled bar without grooves, the lower one - with a profiled bar with grooves.
If the furniture board will be operated under constant mechanical load, in conditions of high humidity and temperature differences, then the boards should have a more powerful interface. Photo 9 shows examples of such compounds. The upper shield is assembled on dowels, the middle one - on a plywood rail. The width of the lath should be equal to the thickness of the plots, the thickness of the lath - one third of the thickness of the plots.
The example of the lower shield shows a tongue and groove connection used when laying a floor or facing partitions. All these methods can be used in the manufacture of collapsible panels (for example, for sliding furniture). Glue is not used in these connections.
Gluing the lamellas on the dowels requires perfect accuracy in the location of the holes, otherwise the geometry of the shield will be broken. Nests are marked with markers. Drilling the ends is best done using a drill stand and stop. The depth of both holes in total should exceed the length of the fastener by 2-3 mm.
If not milling machine, grooves and profiles at the ends are removed using a drill mounted on a stand. An appropriate cutter is installed on the tool and high speeds are turned on.
We saw off the assembled, dried and polished shield to the desired size. Now you can put it to work - make furniture, doors, window sills, sheathe walls and ceilings. Strength, aesthetics, naturalness of furniture panels are best recommendations for building material.
Novice furniture makers sometimes face a problem - where to buy a furniture board. Factory samples are not always suitable for the intended design, but blanks can be made independently.
For the manufacture of shields, you will need special equipment: a planer, grinders(belt and surface grinding). Choose boards for work of the same breed, without knots, dried, with minimal warpage. The best option- buy a log and saw it into pieces of the required size. The cutting angle is 90 degrees. Pine, oak, birch are suitable for the manufacture of shields.
Wooden panels are very practical - they do not deform, have slight shrinkage, the structure of the tree is not damaged, so the investment in the production of lumber quickly pays off.
The figure shows another way to connect wood parts: gluing boards into a shield (panel for carving) and additional fastening of wooden cross planks in the form of a spike. Jointed boards or bars in shields should be directed along the long side of the shield, in square or round shapes - vertically. The material of the constituent parts is taken from the same wood, mainly from the same trunk; the material of the transverse slats should, as a rule, be from another wood that is more durable or has other advantages: for example, it is known that oak is not afraid of moisture, pine and spruce are also less susceptible to hygroscopicity, they are less depleted by woodworms, cedar, olive, larch, boxwood is resistant to rotting and cracking. The transverse planks (dowels) have a trapezium-like profile (“dovetail”) and slightly taper towards the end in the form of a wedge. They are driven into sawn grooves one towards the other.
Manufacturing technology of composite shields
Dried wood is carefully checked to detect and eliminate defects that will certainly interfere with work.
First, planed boards of the required length and thickness are taken, taking into account the allowance from 30 to 100 mm, and the face and edge are jointed at an angle of 90 °. The width of the boards when gluing can be from 50 to 100 mm. The quality of the joint is checked for clearance, applying edges to each other. The edge jointing accuracy must be sufficiently high, otherwise the shield may crack at the point of gluing both during the threading process and after.
When laying out the blanks in a shield on the front side, where the carving will be carried out, the texture pattern and color of the wood are selected, since the “banding” of various blanks can affect the quality of the product and reduce the overall effect.
Gluing wooden blanks with edges to obtain boards of large width:
clamping with screws and wedges
The jointed workpieces are placed in clamps or clamps (in the figures above), they check the correct layout at the ends, according to the texture pattern and according to the density of the edges, lubricate the edges with glue and clamp them with screws or wedges. To obtain blanks of large cross-section, the boards are glued in layers
Gluing boards in layers into blocks to obtain a workpiece of large cross section:
1 - workpiece, 2 - clamping screw.
For gluing shields, depending on where the decorations will be, use different kinds glue. So, for gluing boards that will be installed outdoors, casein and synthetic adhesives are used, which have high bonding strength and high water resistance.
For carved panels, souvenirs and other products, synthetic and glutinous (carpentry) adhesives are used. Casein glues, carpentry glues, PVA emulsion, EDP glue, etc. are on sale. The method of application is usually indicated on the labels or in the instructions. Types of adhesive joints are shown in the figure.
Types of side adhesive joints in panels:
1 - connection to a smooth fugue; 2 - connection on dowels; 3 - rail connection;
4 - connection in a quarter; 5 - rectangular spike; 6 - triangular spike;
7 - oval spike; 8 - trapezoidal spike; 9 - spike "dovetail".
Correctly glued shields are less prone to warping. Occasionally, panel boards or other large carvings may come into contact with a surface that is subject to cooling or moisture, which in turn can cause warping. In this case, the shields are reinforced by gluing into the end or into the face of profiled bars or battens.
Reinforcement of shields with inserts from profiled bars and rails:
1 - pasting a beam with a rectangular spike; 2 - pasting a rectangular rail; 3 - pasting trapezoidal bars.
Lumber, which is sold in Building Materials stores, is also suitable for house carving: sheathing-lining, boards and bars for flooring. They are easy to glue, because they are already milled and have a certain sectional shape.
After drying, the glued shields are carefully cut out and cleaned with a planer with a double piece of iron or a jointer. Shields are not ground before carving, since when grinding the abrasive powder crumbs get stuck in the pores of the wood and greatly dull the tool.
The ideal case for the durability of the parts to be joined is the use of stained wood, that is, it has been in the water for a long time. For miniature crafts, the desired material is pear, which retains its shape well when dried, and wild pear is more durable.
It remains to be recommended, if the opportunity presents itself, to use the middle fractional cuts of the same trunk to compile the shield, they exclude warping during drying. It must be remembered that when dried, the board bends in the direction of straightening of the annual layers.
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