Often such design technique it is customary to use for decorating private houses, where the layout includes. At the same time, the decor can act not only in the form, but also as a pattern that surrounds the fireplace. In addition, this interior decoration will look great in door and window openings, the main thing here is to choose the right size and texture. Aerobatics - a decorative bas-relief, which will include the presence of illumination. It will make images more voluminous, giving the impression of 3D graphics.

An important point in using relief decor on the wall is that it does not necessarily have different colors, as is the case with ordinary painting. The main thing here is to choose the right lighting, this will allow you to get the selection of various edges of the image, using only artificial lighting, as shown in the photo.

There is an erroneous opinion that decorating a house with elements of bas-relief inserts is too expensive. In fact, how to do it, do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall is quite accessible for beginners. enough to follow closely step by step guide which is presented below. It is complemented by a video that will allow you to answer many questions that arise in the course of work.

Do-it-yourself bas-relief master class for beginners

People who are far from repair often mistakenly think that such an artistic decor is a prefabricated structure, the elements of which are cast from plaster. In fact, it is made by hand, and in its essence is a truly original and unique work of art. Each bas-relief is unique in itself, even if the same sketch is used to create. In principle, creating a three-dimensional drawing on the wall requires certain skills and abilities, as well as careful adherence to technology, however, even beginners can cope with the task.

First you need to decide on the material to create the decor. In this process, you can use various options, for example, plaster, gypsum, alabaster and even clay. However, if you are new to this activity, it is best to start with plaster only for now. In extreme cases - gypsum-based plaster.

Master class Do-it-yourself bas-relief of a flower from gypsum putty video

After choosing the material, you should begin to create the so-called base, in which a decorative bas-relief will be created on the wall. To do this, you need to assemble a wooden box with low sides, which will require several slats and plywood as a bottom. The dimensions of the resulting box will match the dimensions of the future decor, this should be taken into account when assembling it. Any box that will have rigid walls and a base can replace the box.

The base of the box should be covered with a film, while it is necessary that there are no wrinkles on it at all, or you should try to make their number as small as possible. Then you need to start preparing the solution, which should be carried out exclusively according to the manufacturer's instructions. The finished solution is poured into the mold. For tall patterns, you will need wire for reinforcement. After pouring the mixture into the box, leave it alone for the initial drying, the duration of this period depends entirely on the manufacturer's recommendations.

Bas-relief in the interior photo in the apartment

Now you can proceed directly to the manufacture of a bas-relief with your own hands. The main condition here is the creation of the contour of the future ornament, which then needs to be filled with a mixture, which in turn will be prepared anew. The volume of the future decor should be increased stage by stage, while allowing each previous layer to dry properly. You can draw contours on the surface with a film, covering the surface with it, after which the film is removed.

Master class for beginners Bas-relief of a tree video

Stucco will be a very successful material, since it is very convenient to work with it while it is wet. Due to the pliability of the material, it will be quite possible to remove excess plaster, as well as adjust the shape of the future pattern. Also, plaster that is not dry enough is easily sanded. You should not try to immediately perform several layers, since the hardening of each segment is a prerequisite.

In addition, the "beginners' guide to creating artistic wall bas-relief" includes the possibility of creating indentations in the future wall mural. The indentation is created in two available ways:

• Cutting through the material and removing some of it from the finished layout using a chisel.
• Increasing the background around a certain point, which as a result is lower.

Most often, a flower, usually a lily or a tulip, is chosen as the basis for the image in the bas-relief. Creating a lily with your own hands may initially seem like a too difficult task, but in fact, even a beginner can do this process. It is important to follow every step of the process, which guarantees the creation of a successful relief.

Bas-relief paintings on the walls design photo

Often, lilies are applied directly to the wall, without creating a base in the form of a box. In this case, the obligatory moment is the complete closure of the remaining elements of the interior with masking tape to avoid damage. Next, the future base of the drawing must be covered with putty, and then, after waiting for it to dry, apply a primer. It is advisable to use the so-called primer paint as a primer, because, due to its properties, it allows you to get maximum adhesion to the decorative bas-relief elements in the future. This composition dries for about three hours.

Marseilles wax is applied with a trowel, which is a fast-curing material suitable for the starting step. With the help of a film fixed over the entire surface of the future bas-relief, details should be drawn. When fixing the film, do not forget to be able to bend it freely, for this one edge should be left free.

Bas-relief on the wall in the interior photo in the apartment

Initially, you can outline the outlines of the future pattern on the film using a marker. After that, having unfolded the film, one should draw the future lily according to the traces obtained with the help of all the same Marseille wax, which will be the most successful material if the painting goes directly on the wall, without using a substrate.

Usually the wax used in the work is white in color. To diversify the bas-relief, you can further cover the frozen flower with a certain composition. Nevertheless, the main task of the master is to give the bas-relief maximum realism. As an end layer decorative finishes lilies can use acrylic paints. We must not forget about the finishing layer, which needs to draw each element of the composition.

Master class how to create a flower on the wall video lesson

As you can see from the guide above, the bas-relief on the wall is an interesting, but time-consuming process to create it yourself. Novice masters will need a little perseverance and attention, as well as strict adherence to technology. The important thing here is to stock up on attention and the necessary tools.

If you are striving to create an individual and extraordinary interior, then you just need to know how to make a bas-relief with your own hands. Such work requires a creative approach and certain skills, but do not despair, you just need to study the technology and practice a little - then you will succeed!

Making a bas-relief from plaster

You will need:

• tracing paper;
• carbon paper;
• masking tape;
• spatulas and palette knives of various sizes;
• soft brush;
• self-tapping screws;
• plaster;
• finishing putty;
• construction mixer.

Before proceeding, you need to prepare a sketch. For this purpose, it is best to use a sheet of tracing paper. If you are new to this business, then do not use too complex drawings with multi-step relief. For the first time, it is enough to take a pattern with a small volume, for example, a flower, a branch with a bird, etc. Transfer the pattern to tracing paper with a simple pencil.

The bas-relief is made on a surface prepared in advance, the wall must be leveled, plastered and primed at least 2 times (necessary to improve adhesion). If you plan to make a panel in a room with high humidity, then use an antifungal primer. Work begins after complete drying of the primer layer. Using masking tape, attach carbon paper and tracing paper to the wall, transfer the drawing. In order for the bas-relief not to collapse, it is necessary to insert dowels in the thickest places and tighten the screws (not completely). This is a kind of reinforcement that will not allow the plaster to crumble.

Dilute the plaster according to the attached instructions, let it stand for about 5 minutes, mix again with a construction mixer. Apply the bottom layer of plaster according to the drawing, let it dry well. Then apply the second layer, as if molding the elements. To work, use a spatula, palette knife or own hands try to feel the material. In order to give the relief elements additional strength, use a bandage dipped in plaster. You can prevent cracking if you moisten the finished panel parts with a damp brush from time to time.

It is desirable to make the last layer of the bas-relief from the finishing putty, since this material can be easily sanded. It is best to use a ready-made composition. Putty is applied either with a spatula or with a brush. At the finishing stage, additional lines are drawn, the gaps between the wall and the bas-relief are closed. After the putty has dried, the panels are polished with fine sandpaper. Next, the surface is primed, then coated with acrylic paint.

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Bas-relief in the "Terra" technique

To create a bas-relief using the Terra technique, you will need: dry flowers and herbs, plaster, finishing putty, PVA glue, acrylic paints.

You will need:

• dry flowers and herbs;
• PVA glue;
• plaster;
• finishing putty;
• acrylic paints.

Everyone can make a bas-relief using the Terra technique, for this you do not need to have the talent of an artist or sculptor. In this case, nature will do everything for you, you only need to stock up on dry flowers and herbs. Spikelets of cereals, roses, beautifully shaped leaves, cereals, sand, etc. will do. After the material has been collected, you can get to work. First of all, prepare the wall, it must be leveled, plastered and primed. In this case, PVA glue diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 1 can be used as a primer.

Lay the herbs on the table, make a composition out of them, mark a place on the wall under the panel. Dilute the plaster with water according to the attached instructions, add PVA glue so that you get the consistency of thick sour cream. Apply the resulting mass to the wall, press the herbs into it, fill the voids with sand, seeds or cereals, leave to dry completely.

In order to give strength to dried flowers, it is necessary to prime them with PVA glue 3-4 times.

An interesting effect can be achieved if dark paint is applied to the entire surface, for example, brown, then wiped off with a damp cloth so that only the recesses remain dyed. Then emphasize all the bulges in a light tone (white, milky, lilac, beige, gray).

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. The achievements of modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

1. Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
2. Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
3. Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
4. Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief is a plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead of them (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters clean them off old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, induce a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

Next essential tool- a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest ones, made of bull's-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool rots, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
• A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, shaping and toning is not required;
• In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for plaster moldings- they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. The model is dipped into it ( artificial flower, napkin) and put on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of foam, penofol, polyurethane, etc. soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering on the spot are best sculpted from salt dough, the very one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. To plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salt dough is glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wood, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here it is necessary not to forget to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After the time of gaining 3/4 strength with a cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

flat

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

About branches

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of the limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
• After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (toning can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use a thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

Modeling on the walls of the interior has always been considered a sign of good taste and prosperity. Today, despite the fact that there is a wide variety of different plaster and plastic ready-made elements that can be used to decorate the walls of a particular room in the house, sculpting on the wall with your own hands will bring a lot of pleasure and make you proud of your work. What’s more, you made it yourself. Someone may think that sculpting on the wall is difficult. Not at all. Every person who has never even sculpted before can easily cope with such work. There would be only desire to create.

Beautifully designed molding will decorate any wall, make it expensive and stylish.

How to make wall art with your own hands

This will require:

• building mix for plaster;
• sculptural clay (or other material);
• stacks, knife, mixing containers;
• rolling pin

Before you start sculpting, you should prepare the wall of the room, it must be carefully leveled with plaster. Clay for modeling must be kneaded so that it does not stick to your hands. From it, the elements of the intended composition will be formed. Part of the clay is kneaded in a container to the state of liquid sour cream. It is called slip and is needed in order to connect finished elements together.

You can sculpt anything, but most often various plant compositions are made. From a piece of mixed clay, you need to break off as much as it takes to create one element, and the rest of the clay should be kept wrapped in a wet cloth and a plastic bag. This will keep it from drying out.

Can be on simple example consider how very simply a bunch of grapes is molded. You need to take a leaf of grapes, put it on polyethylene film and circle around. This will be the template. Then clay and slip are kneaded. A piece of clay is rolled out with a rolling pin into a cake and, with the help of a slip, is attached to the surface of the wall. The template is placed on clay and traced along the contour. With the help of tools, excess clay is removed. You can use both professional tools (stacks) and any improvised ones. First, the contour of the sheet is formed, and then the inner part (veins and depressions).

The leaf must be on the vine. Therefore, a thin tourniquet is rolled out of clay and attached to the wall. Then balls are rolled from the clay and a bunch of grapes is formed. After manufacturing, the composition must dry. Then, together with the wall, it is covered with a primer and painted. water-based paint or whiten. You can also make a color composition by adding color to the paint and using artistic brushes.

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Modeling using putty and other materials

Putty can be used instead of sculptural clay. It is kneaded in a container, applied to the wall and, while the putty is damp, the elements of the composition are formed. It is recommended to form successively small areas, since this material dries quickly enough. Instead of putty, you can use gypsum or alabaster.

Photo 1. Putty embossed painted walls will decorate the nursery room.

In the described way, you can decorate the wall with a relief. But you can make a three-dimensional image and decorate, for example, a wall or a corner of a children's room. The child will be delighted with such decoration (photo 1).

The easiest way is to do all the same plant compositions, as in the above example with grapes. Consider how you can fashion a voluminous branch of a tree with leaves and a bird sitting on it.

In order for the branch to be voluminous, it is necessary to make a frame. It is made of wire, which is screwed to the wall of the room with self-tapping screws. In the wall at the attachment points, you must first drill holes and drive plastic dowels into them. The wire fixed on the wall should be wrapped with a bandage and coated with a solution of sculptural clay, putty, gypsum or alabaster. Using a knife, you need to form the bark of a tree on the resulting branch. It remains only to attach the leaves and plant a bird on a branch. The easiest way to sculpt a bird is from clay, as it is more plastic.

After drying, the entire composition is painted. You can use gouache or water-based paint, adding color to it. This decoration looks just great, especially if you make the backlight with a small spotlight with a directed beam of light.

Let's make a reservation right away: step-by-step technologies and complete list all components will be listed below in the relevant section.

First, we list only the basic things you need to have:

• Alabaster;
• PVA glue;
• Finishing putty;
• Water.

This is the basis of the basics, but the auxiliary materials already depend on the type of drawings, which we will deal with here and now.

The most solid bas-reliefs come out of the alabaster mass, poured into molds.

Depending on the type of the latter, you can get absolutely any configuration of a convex pattern: fruits, flowers, shells, and even classic capitals.

The main thing here is just to find the right form, and the rest is just trifles. Casting plaster is easy..

Here are some of the decor elements that can be done in an hour. This is a marine theme, and you are free to choose whatever you like.

These shells are molded with regular baby toys for sand and attached to drywall sheets. And the framing of the frame is made of ready-made foam baguettes, which are usually attached to the junction of the ceiling and wall.

Like, nothing complicated. Gypsum is full in hardware stores. But where to get a good form?

Here you will have to upset you, the choice is not so great: it is not enough to find just a sample that is visually suitable in appearance, you also need the material to withstand the heating of gypsum during solidification.

Yes, yes, it warms up quite strongly and expands! Therefore, molds for making soap, for example, will not work. They just burst and that's it, because they are made of too thin plastic, not of the best quality.

You need something more substantial, such as the same plastic apiaries, and even better - silicone for baking. He is not afraid of any metamorphoses of the material, since it is designed for high heat and stretching.

And most importantly, removing the finished product from it is much easier than from something hard.

We dealt with this type of bas-relief with our own hands superficially, and we will give you a detailed description of the process below, in the corresponding subheading. You will also find a complete list there. necessary materials and fixtures for each type of painting with their own hands.

But in addition to casting, there are other versions.

For example, a bas-relief from ready-made plaster figurines! Such a picture looks extremely expensive, but its final price cannot but rejoice.

Panels with various Greek mythological characters, such as Aphrodite or little angels, look especially beautiful.

If you take these ladies from gypsum, and not marble, then such a purchase will not hit your pocket. But that's not all the options!

You can make a very cute arrangement using ordinary fabric flowers, which are innumerable in gift shops. In addition, you can use cones and other suitable shapes. It will look like this:

A gypsum bas-relief can be made removable, like a regular painting, or it can be monolithic, as one piece with the wall, as you have already seen in the upper picture with shells.

And if you know how to draw, then it will not be difficult for you to make a three-dimensional drawing directly from putty, without using any auxiliary means and forms. But for this you need to have an artistic taste and the most basic modeling skills. Here's what might happen:

Or even so, but for this you need to be a master.

Here, in fact, are all the methods available to almost everyone. And now let's get to the specifics and let's finally start doing, not dreaming!

We make a mold for pouring plaster

If for all sorts of different shells, fruits and bugs you can find a shape and it makes no sense to make it, then for some details, such as grapes, it’s easier to make the base yourself than to try to find it.

Of course, they can not be cast, but rolled from putty, but it will look a little worse, since this material is more porous when it dries.

In general, with a certain skill, you can make any shapes you like using ready-made figurines. Bought one, and then poured at least ten! And if you want to give them, if you want to make panels ...

Well, let's get started. If we are talking about casting a grape berry, then you need to first roll it up from a thick putty mass mixed with PVA glue, in the proportion:

• Finishing putty - 0.5 kg;
• PVA glue - 1 tablespoon;
• Water - 100 grams.

Knead a thick mass, pouring water gradually. Since we gave its amount approximately, because it can differ significantly in application with different types putties.

After kneading, blind a grape and put it to dry for about a day. It should not burst, since the mass with the addition of PVA becomes quite resistant to cracking.

By the way, in the same upper picture with shells, you can see the wall below, finished using the technique of decorative strokes. So they need to be made with just such a mixture, based on PVA.

Well, the grape has dried up? Let's make a shape. For this we need:

• 0.5 liters of silicone;
• Plywood box;
• self-tapping screws;
• Brush.

Liquid silicone is sold in hardware stores, and you can pick up any box, you will put a grape in it and fill it with a silicone mixture.

The main thing is that it can be easily disassembled, and then reassembled into self-tapping screws, and cover the holes with a mixture of silicone. This is necessary so that you can then easily, without damaging, pull out the finished form. If a suitable box was not found, then you can assemble it from plywood sheets.

We will show you step by step photos on the example of pouring a figurine, and you can already put whatever you want there. It is important to understand the sequence, and that's all. And the amount of silicone can be different. A grape needs 100 grams, and an owl, shown below, is already 1 liter.

So:

And now let's move on to the most interesting, the formation of figurines from alabaster with our own hands.

How to make alabaster mixture for bas-reliefs

If you are using silicone molds, you do not need to grease them with anything. But if you pour gypsum into a plastic bead, then you need to thoroughly lubricate it with sunflower oil.

We do the filling mixture like this:

• 2 parts plaster
• 1 part water

Pour the powder into the water gradually, stirring constantly, avoiding the formation of lumps.

There is no need to interfere too intensively, there is no point, you will only supersaturate the substance with oxygen and the finished figure may be covered with bubbles.

Then pour it into the selected shape, flush with its edge. And rest for about a day.

In general, gypsum sets much earlier. But the longer the figurine stays in the form, the stronger it will be, and the chance of damaging it when taking it out will be zero.

We mount a bas-relief on the wall

Now the finished composition needs to be fixed on the wall or on a piece of drywall if you want to make a removable bas-relief. In any case, they are attached in the same way. You can attach them with liquid silicone or simple putty.

The main thing here is this: cover up the gaps between the wall (plasterboard) and the figure, so that it comes out as a single conglomerate. You can also do this with putty.

If there are any irregularities, they must be carefully removed with an abrasive tape. And then you cover the finished picture with water-based paint in a couple of layers.

Pure white compositions look best on the same background, this is a classic version. But you can paint in any color you like, but only then, on top of a layer of white paint.

Bas-relief based on poured forms

And here we will list everything that may be needed specifically for this type of panel:

• alabaster mix
• Forms
• Drywall base (if your idea is intended)
• Putty (or silicone glue)
• Water based paint

How to make an alabaster mixture, we already wrote above, therefore, we will not repeat ourselves, it is better to give you some important recommendations regarding the process.

If you have come up with any composition, then do not rush to immediately glue the elements on the wall.

It's best to lay them out on the floor first and see if they look good. Indeed, it is not good to remove and glue the workpieces several times, they will get dirty and then more layers of paint will be needed.

In addition to the elements cast in the molds, you can add various materials to your composition. For example, if you are making a picture with shells, then you can stick ordinary rubble on the wall and paint it white. This will add volume and the picture will look much more interesting.

Bas-relief from finished figurines

You will need:

• picture frame;
• Profile;
• self-tapping screws;
• Drywall;
• putty;
• silicone adhesive;
• Statuette;
• Decorative items to choose from;
• Water based paint.

Panels with antique figures must be done within some framework. You can't just hang it on the wall, it will look ugly. What can you do?

You can fasten a picture frame directly to the wall, level the inside with putty, forming a single whole, then attach a pedestal for the statue (for this it is convenient to use profiles sheathed with plasterboard), which you also putty.

Then put the figurine on the glue and go through all the cracks again to make the look cast. You can add various elements to the space in the frame: pebbles, shells, columns (you can buy them in the pet supply department, there are many different decorations for aquariums in the form of castles and other beauty that suits the style).

And then just cover everything with paint, including the frame. If necessary, not even two, but three layers. It's nice that this do-it-yourself bas-relief looks just amazing, but in fact, for beginners this is quite a feasible task.

Bas-relief - a picture of putty

You will need:

• Putty mix on PVA;
• Water-based paint;
• Artistic talent.

And here everything is already in your hands, moreover, in the literal sense of the word. There is no special technique that can be given and everyone can do it, even if they don't have the skill.

The only thing we can say is that you need to make a bas-relief from putty with your own hands in stages.

If you immediately put a large piece on the wall, it simply will not hold. The pattern is formed gradually, building up as it dries. And of course, use a PVA-based mixture recipe.

You cover the finished panel with paint and you can invite guests to show off!

Bas-relief of rag flowers

You will need:

• Fabric flowers or spruce cones
• Liquid alabaster mixture
• Silicone adhesive
• Water based paint

The alabaster mixture needs to be made a little thinner than for pouring the figures. You dip the blanks in it and leave them to dry. When they dry, then dip a second time so that the figure acquires a uniform and monolithic color.

Then you attach them to the wall with glue, and it is easier to paint them from a spray can, with matte paint. Since they are quite fluffy and fiddling with a brush is not very convenient in this case.

Such flowers are not too obliging to adhere to a strictly defined interior style. For example, if you are making Aphrodite, then you need to duplicate the columns or the Greek fresco somewhere.

And in this case, everything will be in harmony: bas-reliefs, any paintings on the walls, any design kitchen furniture, framed photo, etc.

In conclusion: how to care for bas-reliefs

No matter how much you interfere with PVA, a home-made bas-relief, sooner or later, begins to lose its appearance. There are gaps between it and the wall and this is normal. You only need to occasionally cover up the cracks and tint these places.

OK it's all over Now! You know how to make a bas-relief from gypsum with your own hands and it's up to you: start acting.