Biologically, pepper is perennial. If in the fall it is transplanted into a bucket and transferred to a room, then it will continue its development and will bear fruit for several years.
Pepper seeds quickly lose their germination. Therefore, they should not be bought in reserve. If your seeds are old, then, first of all, they must be checked for germination.
Seed preparation begins with dressing in a 2% solution of potassium permanganate at room temperature for 20 minutes, followed by rinsing them in cold water. Then the seeds are soaked for 18 hours in a solution of zircon (1 drop of the drug per 300 ml of water) at room temperature.
The same result is obtained by dressing the seeds in a 2% solution of potassium permanganate, and then soaking for 18 hours in a solution of epin (2 drops of the drug in 0.5 cups of water) at room temperature.
To speed up germination, you can also soak the seeds in nutrient solutions preparations Ideal, gumi, potassium humate, Agricola-start, Albit, etc. according to the attached instructions. Positive effect gives soaking seeds in a solution of slurry (1:10) or ash solution (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of hot water).
After that, the seeds are wrapped for 2 days in a damp cloth placed on a saucer and placed in a plastic bag so that they do not dry out. The temperature must be maintained at 25°C. Do not put seeds on the battery, they will dry out and not germinate.
The soil for growing seedlings of pepper should be loose, moisture-intensive, with a sufficient content nutrients, not acidic and free from pests and pathogens. You can prepare such soil yourself if soil harvested in autumn is stored on your balcony, or you can purchase it in a specialized store without any hassle.
A very simple and reliable soil mixture, consisting of 4 parts of ventilated peat, 2 parts of soddy soil, 1 part of old sawdust (brown) and 1 part of humus.
On a bucket of the mixture, add a half-liter jar of sand, 2-3 tbsp. l. ash, 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 1 tsp. urea and pour it with a warm solution of rhizoplan or a warm strong solution of potassium permanganate.
You can use ready-made soils from the store. It is best to take for this purpose ready-made soil soil Special No. 1, created on the basis of the Living Land.
HOW TO DETERMINE THE TIME OF SOWING
The term for sowing pepper seeds depends on the period of planting seedlings in a permanent place. Early-ripening varieties are usually sown 65 days in advance, mid-ripening 65-70, and late-ripening 75 days before planting in a permanent place.
The term for sowing pepper seeds, taking into account the time from sowing to germination, each gardener must calculate very accurately - when he sowed, when they should sprout, when the seedlings are planted in the ground. And this period depends on the condition of your greenhouse, on the weather, and most of all on whether you live in the garden all the time or visit only on weekends.
The fact is that if pepper seeds are sown too early, then the plants grow in pots, and the lower fruits begin to set. In low light conditions on the windowsill, all this leads to the depletion of the plant. As a result, even when 1-2 lower ovaries are removed, the plants take root more slowly, and the main wave of fruiting is delayed. Therefore, it is impossible to overgrow seedlings of pepper in any case.
SOWING PEPPER SEEDS
Peppers are best grown without picking, sowing seeds immediately in pots. But this will require a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe windowsill or greenhouse. Therefore, more often pepper seedlings are grown in sowing boxes, followed by transshipment into a “personal” container.
To do this, on the soil compacted after watering with warm water, after 3-4 cm, grooves are made up to 1 cm deep and seeds are laid out in them after 1-2 cm. The less often they are placed, the longer the seedlings can be kept in the seed box without fear of thickening. A box with sown seeds is covered with a film or glass and placed in a warm place with a temperature of 25 ... 27 ° C. Then it (without removing the film) is transferred to the south window or to a warm greenhouse, maintaining the temperature at a level of at least 23 ... 26 0C.
The soil in the box is lightly sprayed with water every 2 days using a hand sprayer.
Seedlings appear together at a temperature of 25 ... 27 ° C on the 7-12th day, but depending on the temperature, this can happen much later. So, at a temperature of 20 ° C, pepper shoots will appear on the 18-20th day, at a temperature of 16 ° C - only on the 27-30th day.
With the advent of the first shoots, the film is removed from the box and rearranged on a sunny and warm windowsill. Lack of lighting at this time can lead to curvature and stretching of seedlings.
Good advice! In the initial period of seedling development, it should be transferred to a round-the-clock lighting regime. This will significantly accelerate the growth and development of plants.
The air temperature for 3 days after the emergence of seedlings is reduced during the day to 17 ... 18 ° C, and at night - to 14 ... 15 ° C, so that the seedlings are stocky and the roots grow well. At higher temperatures, plants begin to stretch strongly and root growth slows down.
Then the air temperature is again increased during the day in sunny weather up to 24...26 °C, in cloudy weather up to 18...20 °C, at night up to 15...16 °C.
Pepper seedlings are sensitive to lack of heat (below 12°C at night), which causes leaf drop and can lead to plant death. This is also facilitated by the cooling of the soil from cold concrete window sills. Pepper seedlings do not tolerate cold air from the window.
The first 2-3 days after the emergence of seedlings, seedlings should not be watered, if the earth is dry, it is moistened with a sprayer. When the cotyledon leaves unfold, the seedlings begin to be watered with warm (30 ° C) water. Plants should not be allowed to wilt, but excess water is no less dangerous, since plants can get sick with a black leg. In this case, good ventilation of plants is very important.
Seedlings before picking with sufficient preparation of the soil usually grow without top dressing. But if they are very weak, then when the first true leaf appears, it is necessary to feed Agricola-forward (1 tsp of liquid fertilizer per 1 liter of water), which enhances the development of seedlings and strengthens the root system. The second top dressing should be done when the second leaf appears (1 tsp. Barrier per 1 liter of water).
During the cultivation of seedlings, it is necessary to carefully monitor the lighting of plants. At the same time, it is interesting that if, with a lack of light, the tomatoes stretch out, then the pepper chooses another form of protest - a "sitting strike". Plants freeze and may not grow for weeks. At the same time, their roots often rot, which is also facilitated by low temperature soil from concrete window sills.
Boxes with seedlings should be turned back to the window every other day so that the seedlings do not stretch in one direction. With a lack of light, seedlings should be highlighted fluorescent lamps. They do this with the emergence of seedlings, spending it from early morning at 10-12 o'clock in February and at 8-10 o'clock in March. Keep in mind that in low light, the buds on the first brush may not be laid.
Pepper is a short daylight plant. The best duration of illumination for seedlings of pepper is 9-10 hours. Late varieties of pepper require even shorter daylight hours. All together, this means that peppers need short daylight hours, but with very high light levels.
Pepper seedlings tolerate picks worse than tomatoes. But this largely depends on the growing conditions. If you nevertheless decide to grow pepper seedlings in a box with its subsequent picking, then this is done in the phase of 1-2 true leaves, after watering the plants abundantly with water. Seedlings cannot be selected from dry soil, otherwise the soil will crumble from the roots. But when making such a decision, it must be remembered that picking delays the development of plants by 8-10 days.
This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the roots. At the same time, you can’t pinch the roots of pepper seedlings, as is usually done with tomatoes, since they are very poorly restored. 2 hours before picking, seedlings are abundantly watered with warm water. The seedling is carefully dug up, taken out with a clod of earth. If at the same time you still damaged the roots, then be sure to treat these sections with phytosporin-M, because. pathogens can enter through them.
A hole is made in the ground with a depth of 5-6 cm, into which the seedling is lowered to the cotyledon leaves. The latter is extremely important for obtaining good harvest, since when planting pepper seedlings in the ground, they do not bury it, i.e. all additional roots are formed only as a result of a pick. Burying pepper seedlings when planting seedlings greatly delays the first harvest and reduces its total number.
It is necessary to ensure that the root does not bend up during picking and that the roots of the plant have good contact with the soil. Therefore, when planting, the roots of the transplanted seedling are pressed tightly with soil so that the seedling cannot be pulled out by the cotyledon leaf.
More acceptable for seedlings of pepper is its cultivation not with picking, but with transshipment, i.e. with a change in the container with soil from a smaller to a larger one, in which the seedlings are transplanted with a lump of earth without disturbing the root system.
During the growth of seedlings, it is desirable to feed twice. The first top dressing should be carried out a week after picking with a solution of Planta or Kemira, and in their absence - nitrophoska (per 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon) with the addition of trace elements or a solution of mullein (1:10). It is even more useful instead of mineral fertilizers to fertilize them with solutions of biofertilizers - Signor Tomato, Chamomile, Planta, Ideal, New Ideal, etc.
An excellent fertilizer for seedlings is dry bird droppings. He is bred in hot water(1:20), where it swells for 2 hours. It is not necessary to ferment it so that there is no smell.
If the seedlings are weak, it is useful to spray them 2-3 times with a solution of epin at intervals of 8-10 days. After that, the plants react less to adverse growing conditions, especially the low light inherent in city apartments. For good root formation, plants can be fed with potassium humate (25 ml per 10 liters of water). It is advisable to water the seedlings once every 10 days with a solution of rhizoplan (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).
When watering seedlings, it must be remembered that this should be done rarely, but plentifully, only in the morning, preferably with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, followed by ventilation. Frequent surface watering can lead to blackleg disease in seedlings. If, nevertheless, it appears, then watering must be immediately temporarily stopped, ventilation must be increased, and the soil should be sprinkled with a layer of calcined sand or powdered with ash.
To prevent the appearance of pests on seedlings, a week before planting in open ground it must be sprayed with infusion of calendula, marigolds, onions, garlic or coniferous extract.
V. Shafransky
Newspaper "GARDENER" №7, 2010
To increase the yield in the garden, you need to plant only good productive varieties and be able to determine the germination of seeds. After all, even the most best grade will not sprout if the germination period of the seeds has long ended.
Determination of seed germination - what to look for
In the choice of seeds great importance has a reputation as a producer - the risk of buying low-quality seeds will be significantly reduced if they are produced by a large agricultural company that is well known on the market. You should not buy seeds from unknown companies, as well as from hands, in the markets. When buying, you should also carefully study what is written on the bag of seeds: the highest germination of seeds lasts throughout the year, so you should not spend money on seeds from the year before last.
Before going to the seed store, it’s a good idea to study the qualitative characteristics of the plant varieties that you need to purchase and make a ready list of the necessary seeds. In this case, you can save a lot of time and know in advance what you can expect from the next harvest.
How to test seeds for germination
Seed germination can be determined by germinating them in damp tissue. This must be done in advance, without waiting for the time of planting for seedlings, so that it is possible to buy other seeds in a timely manner. Together with germination, the energy of seed germination is also determined - how evenly sprouts appear. You can check the germination of seeds immediately after purchasing them. To do this, it is worth selecting a few seeds from each bag. To make it convenient to determine the germination of seeds as a percentage, it is necessary to soak 10-20 seeds of each crop in wet gauze. At the same time, each hatched plant can be taken as 5-10% and the percentage of germination in this case can be determined quite quickly.
Seed germination is considered within the normal range for carrots, parsley, dill - 60%, beets, onions, lettuce and peppers - up to 80%, cabbage, pumpkin, radish - up to 90%. If germination showed a lower percentage, when sowing, it will be necessary to increase the sowing rate or purchase other seeds. Seed germination time is different for each crop. For fresh high-quality seeds of cabbage, zucchini, radishes, carrots, sprouts should appear on the 3rd day, peas, beans - on the 4th, beets and tomatoes - on the 5th, spinach and parsley - in a week.
Additionally, high-quality seeds should be sorted - in a solution of table salt (2 tablespoons per 1 glass of water), you need to fill in the seeds, mix and leave for 2-3 minutes. Those seeds that float to the surface must be discarded, they are not viable. On this, the determination of seed germination can be considered complete. After that, the planting material must be washed in running water, dried well and stored in a dry place for storage. In this case, you can be completely calm about the sowing campaign - the seeds will sprout in due time, and the harvest will be ensured.
Using these simple tricks to test seed germination, you can achieve good yields in your garden.
KakProsto.ru
Soaking, sprouting, sowing seeds of eggplant, pepper and tomatoes - 2
Rules for gardening in harsh conditions. Growing seedlings, soaking and germinating seeds
Depending on the situation, the seeds are sown dry, wet or germinated. Each method has its pros and cons - sowing with dry seeds is carried out very quickly, however, seedlings in this case (unless we are talking about seeds that have fast germination, such as mustard, watercress, etc.) are usually in no hurry to appear on White light.
It is rather difficult to sow wet, and even more so germinated seeds, but such seeds germinate very quickly (which means there are real chances to get an earlier and more significant harvest). Naturally, the cultivation of seedlings (we are not talking about tomatoes or peppers - everyone grows their seedlings anyway) brings the moment of obtaining vegetable products to an even greater extent. Which of the options to speed up the process to choose depends on the specific situation and specific cultures. In general, it is recommended to soak and even germinate slowly germinating seeds (carrots, parsley), seeds that require a lot of moisture (onions, legumes) or have some special specific properties (beets). It is advisable to soak and germinate the seeds of heat-loving crops (peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, etc.) - this will allow you to get earlier shoots and, therefore, extend the time of consumption of fresh products. A good result is also obtained by soaking the seeds of early green crops (only with sufficiently large seeds, for example, Beijing and Chinese cabbage, spinach, chard, borage, etc.) in order to get an early harvest in the shortest possible time.
seed soaking
For soaking, ordinary settled water is suitable, and even better - melted snow water (the snow must be clean, preferably freshly fallen). The soaking process lasts for a day at the temperature recommended for specific crops.
Soak the seeds in a wide flat dish, placing them between the layers of the wet cloth. Water should only slightly cover the fabric (with more water, the seeds will inevitably suffocate and die), and the fabric itself with seeds should never dry out (otherwise the seeds will also die). In the conditions of dry air in apartments, it is rather difficult to ensure a constant humidity of soaked seeds, so it is more reliable to place the cloth with seeds on a layer of wet sawdust (or on another material that retains water well, such as cotton wool), and then install the containers with seeds in a wide ajar plastic bag. In this case, you do not have to check the humidity level every couple of hours.
seed germination
The duration of seed germination and the optimum temperature for this process depend on the specific crop. As a rule, germination is carried out until roots 0.5 cm long appear in the bulk of germinated seeds. Single seeds can have roots up to 1.5 cm long. When this stage is reached, seeds are immediately sown. If this is not possible (we are talking only about the seeds of carrots, parsley and dill sown in the ground), then you can slightly shift the sowing dates by placing containers with seeds on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (+1 ... + 4 ° C) directly in an ajar plastic bag . And at the same time regularly monitor the moisture content of the seeds. According to foreign scientists, such hardening of germinated seeds not only does not worsen their qualities, but, on the contrary, contributes to an increase in field germination.
It is most reliable to germinate seeds in wide flat containers filled with wet sawdust - between layers of fabric. It is possible, as is usually recommended, to germinate simply in fabric bags, but then, firstly, the seeds dry out faster, and secondly, they will need to be thoroughly washed every day (directly into the fabrics), placed under running water. When germinating on sawdust, the need for such washings practically disappears, with the exception of the germination of hard-to-grow carrot seeds. Large seeds (cucumbers, pumpkins, tomatoes, peppers, corn) do not even have to be placed on the fabric - just sawdust is enough. Moreover, seeds with brittle roots when germinated on sawdust without cloth are much easier and safer to remove before planting. When using tissue, extracting seeds with slightly overgrown roots is fraught with breakage, as they often germinate through the tissue. A very good result during germination (as well as during soaking) is given by a single spraying of seeds with the growth stimulator Epin.
How to sow wetted and sprouted seeds
Wet and germinated seeds are much more difficult to sow than dry ones. If you wet the seeds, then you need to dry them to flowability (in no case should you overdry the seeds) and immediately sow.
Large germinated seeds (for example, gourds and many nightshade crops, beets, chard, etc.) are sown individually by hand. Smaller seeds (carrots, parsley) cannot be sown by hand - you have to resort to liquid sowing. For such sowing, an ordinary paste is first prepared (it must be homogeneous, without clots, viscous enough and without a film on the surface to keep the germinated seeds in suspension) and cool it. In parallel, holes are made on the ridges. Then the germinated seeds are sent to a bucket of paste, and a glass with a spout is taken as a tool. Before sowing, right at the ridge, gently stir the jelly with seeds with your hand, fill a glass with it and pour the contents of the glass into the hole-row, quickly moving the hand with the glass along it. Then the jelly is stirred again, etc. Immediately after sowing, the furrows are covered with loose soil.
Out of habit, evenly distributing the seeds over the hole may not work, but after a few workouts, you will adapt and be able to sow three large ridges of carrots in 15 minutes in this way.
Sowing seeds of nightshade crops (eggplant, pepper and tomatoes)
I would like to dwell on these cultures in particular. The fact is that it is traditionally customary to sow these heat-loving crops directly into the ground, for example, in a low box, and then dive into separate containers. The long-term experience of the author shows that this technology is not the most effective, since the root system of seedlings extracted from the soil during picking does not differ in power. In addition, after picking, plants do not immediately start growing, they are very painful (despite the generally accepted belief that nightshades love transplanting) they endure this procedure.
It is much more efficient to first sow the seeds in looser soil than ordinary soil, for example, in sawdust. To do this, a sufficiently deep container is taken, filled with moistened sawdust, and seeds are sown in it at some distance from each other. The distance between the seeds should be at least 2 cm, because the plants will be together for a long time. The containers are placed in ajar plastic bags in a warm place, since during the period of seed germination it is desirable to maintain the temperature in the range of 24-26?C. With the emergence of seedlings, the seeds are sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil 3-4 mm thick, and the temperature is reduced - during the day to 23 ... 24? C, and at night - to 16 ... 18? C.
Containers are moved under the lamps daylight, maintaining 12-14-hour daylight hours. When the first true leaf appears (the cotyledons do not count), the seedlings are planted in ordinary soil in separate containers. It should be noted here that at the time of picking, seedlings from sawdust will have a very powerful root system, and the plants themselves will transfer the transplant absolutely painlessly and immediately begin to grow. It is categorically impossible to delay the transplantation process, since a lack of nitrogen will quickly appear on the sawdust layer in plants, which will immediately affect their development.
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
floraprice.ru
On what day after planting do bell peppers sprout. Thank you.
Ludmila Venediktova
The main factors affecting the germination period:
1. Freshness of seeds (germination decreases, and the germination period increases with time)
2. Humidity (the main thing here is not to "go too far" - if the seeds are soaked "with their heads" for a long time, then they can "drown" - suffocate and die, because they also need air)
3. Temperature (peppers are heat-loving plants, so I place them on the windowsill above the battery, where there are no drafts)
4. Access to air (soaked seeds covered with glass or film must be aired, sown in loose soil, at first watered very carefully - do not flood!). I usually soak the seeds on toilet paper under a film for a few days, then put the earth in a seedling box, lightly mow, spray abundantly from the sprayer, lay the seeds firmly pressed to the ground, spray again, sprinkle with a layer of earth 0.5 cm and again spray from sprayer, but I don’t ram it anymore).
When I sowed peppers for the first year, I sowed them with dry seeds, to a depth of about 3 cm, and watered them very plentifully. 3 or 4 weeks passed, there were no shoots. I, deciding that the seeds would no longer sprout, loosened the ground in order to sow something else. Shoots appeared the very next day. And all the seeds came up with a "brush". I think that having dug up the ground, I "pulled out" the seeds from a great depth, from where they did not have the strength to break through. As soon as they "saw" the light and felt the air, they immediately began to grow.
Good luck and good harvest!
·°· Dream ·°·
From two weeks to a month. Pour well, cover with cling film and put in a warm place (it will come down faster and see that the earth does not dry out), as soon as it goes down, put it in a well-lit place. Dive is not recommended!
kitty
Usually at 10-14, but maybe later. And then. sow dry or hatched.
Nika
if the seeds were treated with growth stimulants, they sprout slowly, sometimes for two or more weeks. processed in "epin" ascended to the 7th. 9th day. but as a rule, even processed ones can lie longer. of course, after planting, you need to water and cover the box with glass or film. so it is easier to maintain high soil moisture, which guarantees friendly seedlings
SlavuskaYa
Much depends on the seeds and the temperature in the room. At a temperature of 24-26 degrees. (sowed in January) sprouted on the 7th day), but those sown on February 20 at a temperature of 20-22 degrees. the loops have only just "appeared", they have not even crawled out yet above the ground.
Usually if the seeds are not overdried and you cover the container with a film or glass from 7 to 18 days.
Don't worry, there is still time, everything will grow in the best possible way.
Alexey Leontiev
Marina Nikolaeva
I have from a week to 3, depending on the temperature and seeds.
Tatiana B
Natalya Zakharova
I got up in 6 days. Soaked for days. The temperature in the apartment is 25 degrees.
Gene Abos
From 5 days to three weeks. It all depends on the freshness of the seeds, the correctness of their storage, soaking (including stimulants), temperature. It also depends on the water you soak in. Snow penetrates faster to the seed germ and acts on it "more energetically".
And at the same time, there will always be a couple of "upstarts" that will germinate in two days.
Irina Murzinova
Preparation of pepper seeds before sowing is an important condition for obtaining good seedlings and an excellent harvest.
Preparation of pepper seeds before planting should be done without fail, as this will help to get an excellent harvest when growing peppers. This is already achieved by the fact that when growing pepper seedlings you get good, healthy plants. In addition, the harvest will be 25-30 percent more. The truth has long been known: “There will be no good tribe from a bad seed!”. More precisely, you can’t say, right to the point. And this truth is true not only for peppers, but also for potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and for growing all vegetables and fruits. First of all, decide what kind of pepper you want to grow: early or late, yellow or red, round or oblong, etc.
Pepper seeds, like all nightshades, are relatively small, flat-round, light brown in color. Pepper seeds have the highest germination capacity at the time of full biological maturity of the fruit. Therefore, dosing unripe fruits for 10-15 days is of great practical importance, especially in the northern regions, where it improves the sowing and yielding qualities of seeds. Seeds remain viable (remain viable) for 3 years. The best seeds for sowing 1-2 summer age. The minimum soil temperature for seed germination should be at least 13-15°C. The higher the soil temperature, the faster the seedlings appear. So if the soil temperature is 20-25 ° C - sprouts appear in 12-15 days.
When choosing pepper seeds, follow the rules below, and you are guaranteed a high yield:
- Give preference to hybrids of the first generation (F1), they are more expensive, but your costs will definitely pay off. Hybrids are superior to ordinary varieties in terms of yield, they are more resistant to diseases, lack of moisture, pests, cold snap, and finally, their taste qualities are an order of magnitude higher.
- The package with seeds must contain information about the manufacturer (trademark of the company, its full name, full address and telephone number).
- Give preference to Russian manufacturers that have been operating on the market for a long time. The packaging must contain a reference to compliance with state standards (GOST) or specifications(THAT).
- The bag should be well closed (preferably hermetically sealed) and the number of seeds, not the weight, should be indicated on it. There should also be a description of the variety, recommendations for caring for plants. If the expiration date is indicated on the package, and not the harvest date, it is better not to buy such seeds.
In addition to choosing good, quality seeds, they also need to be planted correctly. Studies show that many diseases are transmitted with seeds, which means that in order to get friendly, healthy seedlings, it is necessary to take a number of measures to prevent and neutralize possible whitening.
Pepper seed dressing.
In the preparation of pepper seeds before sowing, dressing is of great importance for increasing the plant's immunity to diseases. Pepper seeds are pickled in the simplest disinfectant solutions: 10% hydrogen peroxide or 0.1% potassium permanganate of dark cherry color. Etching time is at least 20 minutes.
Warming the seeds of sweet and hot peppers is not recommended due to the threat of loss of germination.
Preparation of pepper seeds for sowing by hardening.
Hardening pepper seeds at the stage of seed awakening is a very important procedure not only for increasing plant resistance to diseases, but also for successfully overcoming sharp temperature fluctuations (night and day). The simplest and effective method hardening is the effect on the seeds of a contrasting temperature. First, the seeds must be soaked between two layers of damp cloth at room temperature (18-20 degrees) for 15-20 hours, and then overnight (6-8 hours) placed in the refrigerator under the freezer, where the temperature is 0-2 degrees. During the day, take it out again and keep it at room temperature. Hardening with variable temperatures should be carried out for 5-7 days. In doing so, it occurs " natural selection"- less viable die during hardening. This is a very important preventive method, especially for heat-loving crops, which include pepper.
Bubbling pepper seeds.
In other words, this is many hours (up to one day) mixing of seeds in water enriched with air bubbles. At the same time, the seeds swell faster, various substances that delay germination are removed. This is easy to do - the seeds are placed in a tall glass or other container two-thirds filled with water. The end of the tube is lowered to the bottom, the other end of which is connected to the aquarium compressor. It pumps air to the very bottom, and the seeds are constantly in motion. As a result of this procedure, the seed embryos are saturated with air (oxygen), which increases their germination. The seeds are then dried.
Preparation of pepper seeds for sowing by soaking in various solutions.
This is the most famous way to speed up the germination of pepper seeds. The best effect can be achieved if melt or rain water is used instead of ordinary water. It is necessary to fill in the seeds for two or three days, but at the same time, the water should only slightly cover them, since the seeds can suffocate and rot. If the room is dry, the liquid may evaporate. Therefore, it is better to use not a saucer, but a jar with a lid. As a liquid, you can use the juice from the leaves of aloe or Kalanchoe. To do this, the leaves of the plant must be placed in the refrigerator for a day - the juice is easily squeezed out. In such a liquid, the seeds can withstand about a day. As a soaking liquid, you can use a growth stimulant solution: sodium humate (0.005%, the color of the solution should resemble beer or weak tea), epin-extra or zircon (3-4 drops per 100 ml of water for 5-6 hours).
You can soak on hydrogel, which is a translucent crystals that absorb a lot of water. After that, they turn into a loose mass, resembling jelly. Seeds are poured onto this substance in one layer. At the same time, the seeds absorb water and air in an optimal combination, and neither drying out nor decay occurs. But the most important thing is that sprouts appear after a few days. After that, the seeds are dried to a free flowing state.
The order of processing is the same as on the page: heating and dressing, hardening, bubbling, and then soaking just before sowing.
After preparing the seeds, they are sown in a greenhouse or a do-it-yourself greenhouse, as well as in open ground (if conditions permit) or in a container for seedlings in a room or winter garden. If you like the site, tell your friends about it on social networks
You will need
- Pepper seeds, growth regulators, 3% salt solution, potassium permanganate solution, sowing container, soil, water.
Instruction
First, select promising seeds in this way: dip the seeds in a 3% solution of table salt (dissolve 30 grams per 1 liter of water), chat them and hold for several minutes. The good seeds will sink to the bottom and the weak ones will float to the surface - discard them. Remove healthy seeds and dry. Carry out the procedure right before sowing. A favorable condition for the rapid germination of seeds is warm temperature: more than +25 °С. It often happens that seeds planted together do not sprout at the same time. Some seeds may not have enough heat or moisture, so they wake up later.
Use a 1% potassium permanganate solution to disinfect seeds. Soak them in the solution for 10-15 minutes. After that, rinse with plain water and dry. The dressing procedure expels disease foci from the seeds: it is performed immediately before sowing. Process with microelements one to two days before planting them. In order not to confuse different types seeds, put them in gauze bags. Pour the solution containing trace elements into a small container and lower the gauze bags there for 12-24 hours. Then take out the seeds and dry.
One of the best substances for soaking seeds is ash. After all, it contains about 30 nutrients. To prepare the solution, take 2 grams of ash and dissolve them in one liter. Infuse the solution for a day, stirring occasionally. Then dip the seeds in gauze bags into it for three hours, and then rinse with plain water and dry. Soak in the ashes for a day or two before sowing. After the treatment, the seeds can sprout already on the 5th day after sowing. Untreated seeds germinate only after a week or 10 days. The longest stay of seeds in the ground: 14 days.
Bubbling is considered the most effective method. Spend it one to two weeks before sowing. Take a high container, fill it with water not to the brim, the water temperature should be 20–22 ° C. Lower the tip of the aquarium compressor to the bottom of the dish. As soon as bubbles appear in the water, dip the seeds into it. Make sure that the air is evenly distributed. After 24-36 hours, remove the seeds and dry them in the sun.
There are also two ways to harden seeds. First: after disinfection, dip the pepper seeds in warm water. As soon as they swell, put the container in a cold place (temperature 1-2 ° C) for 24-36 hours. Then take out the seeds and dry. The second way: within 10 days, affect the seeds with a temperature difference. Keep for 12 hours at a temperature of 20–24°C, and for the next 12 hours at +2...+6°C. However, never delay the hardening off so that the sprouts do not outgrow.
How to calculate when to sow pepper seedlings? How many days after sowing do pepper seeds germinate? Maxim, Saratov.
From knowing how many days pepper sprouts and what factors affect the timing and uniformity of seedlings, it depends on when it is necessary to sow seeds in order to get high-quality seedlings of pepper on time.
On the features of the timing of seed germination
Being a heat-loving vegetable crop, pepper is quite demanding on growing conditions. Often, gardeners complain that they did not wait for the emergence of seedlings. There may be several reasons for this:
- use of poor quality seed;
- violation of growing conditions;
- ignorance of the timing of seed germination and the use of soil for re-sowing other crops.
One of the reasons for poor germination is the use of low-quality seeds.
Attention! The germination period of pepper seeds depends on several factors and averages about 2 weeks. When creating favorable conditions, the period of emergence of seedlings can be reduced to 10 days and, conversely, under adverse conditions, it can increase to 3 weeks.
Pepper seeds retain quite high germination for only 3 years. As observations show, pepper seeds germinate faster if they were planted. And preliminary stratification and soaking of seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate increases not only germination, but also the resistance of hatched sprouts to fungal diseases.
What factors affect the germination of peppers
The timing and germination rate of pepper seeds can be influenced by several key factors, which include:
1. Freshness of seed material. The longer the seeds are stored, the longer the period of their germination will be.
2. Carrying out pre-sowing treatment of seeds with growth stimulants. Sowing germination of pepper seeds will be higher if they are treated with the bioregulator "Zircon", "Azotofit", "Novosil", "Agricola-start" or "" before planting.
Attention! The treatment of pepper seeds with the preparation "Zircon" increases their germination up to 23%, at the same time reducing the period of emergence of sprouts by an average of 5 days.
3. Compliance temperature regime. Peppers begin to germinate together at t ° + 23-25 ° C. The lower the temperature, the longer the seeds germinate. When the temperature drops below + 14 ° C, the seeds may not germinate at all.
4. The degree of humidity. The lack of moisture, as well as its excess, overwhelmingly affects the germination of pepper seeds.
The optimum temperature for seed germination is 23-25 degrees.
5. Availability of access to fresh air. Sowing seeds in loose, well-drained soil, regular airing of crops, contributes to faster germination.
6. Depth of embedding seeds in the ground. Seeds planted too deep take longer to germinate than shallow ones. The optimal planting depth for pepper seeds is 1-2 cm.
Knowing the timing of seedling emergence allows you to correctly calculate not only the time of planting seeds, but also the timing of seedlings and subsequent crops.
Sowing pepper seeds for seedlings - video
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