Ceiling plaster, like other types of finishes, requires careful surface preparation. This is done regardless of the finishing method:

• traditional, with wet plastering;
• dry, using sheet material.

Both methods end with finishing coat of plaster. The choice of material depends on the upcoming work: repairing the ceiling, leveling the concrete slab, finishing the ceiling with decorative plaster.

This finishing method is suitable for rooms with high ceilings and creates space for hidden engineering systems: ventilation ducts, cable ducts. GKL joints and sheets are puttied with a thin layer of finishing plaster, then the surface is painted or wallpapered.

The traditional way wet plaster known from antiquity. A wooden rack frame (shingles) was being prepared. Then 3 layers of putty were applied with a lime mixture:

1. Approximately 8 mm (3/8 in.) thick was applied through the gaps between the planks to achieve a strong bond to the laths.
2. The so-called floating coating is about 6 mm (1/4 inch) to achieve a smooth surface of the last layer.
3. The last (installation or finishing) was about 3 mm (1/8 inch) under trim for decoration.

Traditionally, the first and second layers were usually a 1:3 mixture of lime cleaning paste and quartz sand. Animal hair was mixed as a binding additive. The third layer is lime paste on its own or 3:1 for a thin sand mixture.

Modern gypsum plasters much harder and more brittle than the traditional lime dough used in older designs. This must be taken into account when reconstructing buildings.

Apartment buildings have concrete ceilings. Their finishing consists in sealing the joints of the panels, followed by plastering. This method has the following advantages:

• room space is preserved;
• fire safety is ensured;
• the possibility of timely elimination of defects;
• the possibility of creating designer decorative stucco.

The construction market has dry plaster mixes on cement, lime, gypsum basis. There are decorative plaster mixtures. Their composition includes additives that increase strength characteristics, reduce setting time, and improve water resistance. The main thing is ease of use.

The packages or attached instructions indicate the amount of water to be added, the consumption of the mixture at a certain layer thickness per square meter, technology of preparation and application to the surface. In order to plaster the ceiling with your own hands, buy a hand tool.

You will also need: a construction knife, a soft sponge, sandpaper of different grain sizes, a hammer, grout, a rule, a smooth comb, a building level, a container for mixing the mixture, a mixer. We will get acquainted with other tools when performing work.

Attention! Do-it-yourself ceiling plastering is best done on a fairly even ceiling with a slight height difference. The application of plaster on the ceiling of a thick leveling layer is carried out along the beacons. It takes skill to do this job.

Choose the type of plaster. Repair of concrete surfaces: sealing seams, cracks, chips - perform ceiling plaster cement mortar. Inexpensive dry mix will do MikCity Cemosloy. In terms of technical characteristics, it is not inferior to expensive gypsum-based mixtures. The use time is 4 hours, which allows you to mix large volumes and plaster large areas.

You can plaster the ceiling with gypsum plaster, but you need to work with it quickly.

Attention! Dry mixes are prepared at the rate of use for the time indicated on the package. Do not dilute the mixture, especially at the end of the term.

The applied layer without additional reinforcement is from 5 to 30 mm for walls. Ceilings are recommended to be reinforced with a special plaster mesh. The composition of the mixture includes mineral fillers and modified additives that improve strength characteristics, the working solution is plastic, adheres tightly to the concrete surface, brickwork, gas silicate blocks, stone slabs. The choice of dry mixes is huge.

Which plaster to choose for the ceiling, entrust the experts.

Preparatory work includes cleaning the ceiling from dirt and dust. With a metal brush, scraper, spatula, detergents - they clean the ceiling from old paint, lagging plaster, other, worn out, finishing material. Joints of panels, potholes and cracks are sealed with prepared plaster mortar from a dry mix.

The repaired surface is left for the hardening time (about a day). Then the seams are cleaned and primed. This is necessary for better adhesion of the plaster to the concrete surface.

There are deep penetration primers that protect against fungus and mold and reduce the consumption of finishing material. It is recommended to prime the surface 2-3 times at intervals for better penetration. The joints with the walls and between the panels are glued with a reinforcing mesh (if necessary), and then the finishing layer is applied.

Then, at the request of the Customer, artistic plaster moldings are made. This expensive type of decoration is performed by highly paid craftsmen. There are ready-made decorative fragments made of gypsum or polyurethane. They are fixed to the ceiling and wall with liquid nails. Looks rich and classic.

Available for sale ready plaster decorative mixtures. You can choose the appropriate tone and prepare decorative ceiling plaster with your own hands. Dyes are sold, which are added to the kneaded plaster mortar to obtain the desired shade.

Wooden ceiling plaster

Above, the traditional method of wet plastering using shingles was considered. This method is laborious and requires a certain skill. Much easier to level the ceiling GKL and then applied to the surface leveling layer of finishing plaster. Such work is called puttying. Applying decorative plaster to the ceiling with this method will reduce the consumption of an expensive mixture, and the ceiling will look like this.

On the GKL applied Venetian plaster. The smooth glossy surface looks like marble. Under the chandelier will run plaster molding. This is how it changed wooden ceiling performed by the master.

How to plaster the OSB ceiling?

OSB boards are sheathed on the ceilings of many private houses built according to frame technologies. For better adhesion to the plaster, the OSB surface is glued with a paint mesh with PVA glue. Self-adhesive nets are available for sale.

It is recommended to plaster the ceiling on the grid in two steps: smooth with longitudinal and transverse layers. Get an excellent result when applying textured plaster to the ceiling. Various dyes are added to the usual mixture and, due to a professional set of puttying techniques, decorative patterns are formed on the ceiling. Use special rolling rollers, templates, fixtures.

Ready mixes are available. They are advantageous to use because they have high ductility. The consumption is indicated on the plastic container, this allows you to buy the right amount of putty. The relief surface of textured plaster hides small irregularities and small cracks.

How to plaster the ceiling with your own hands?

Even experienced plasterers, before plastering the ceiling, try different application techniques on a separate section of the sheet(imitating the ceiling). And only after a successful selection, this technique is used for the main ceiling. Practice, choose a reliable way to properly plaster the ceiling, bring your skills to professional level and get to work.

Structural decorative plaster differs from textured the composition of the fillers. For internal works choose ready-made mixtures on a water-dispersion basis. As a structure, the composition includes marble chips of various fractions and binder polymer fillers with the addition of acrylic resins.

There is a difference: plastering and puttying. Putty, according to professionals, is intended for finishing. So, for example, the picture shows the materials of the manufacturer BORO.

How to plaster the ceiling in the bathroom?

There is no significant difference. It all depends on the preferences of the customer. Decorative putty, as a rule, is moisture resistant. In addition, it can be protected with moisture resistant paint. The paint is tinted using computer programs in building hypermarkets. In order not to be mistaken: “how to plaster the ceiling in the room?” carefully read the composition of the mixture, which should consist of natural ingredients and meet fire safety requirements.

This method of surface finishing has been the most popular among a variety of homeowners for many years. It is not difficult to explain this state of affairs - the whole point is in the wonderful technical specifications. Well, you should not forget about the moderate cost. Let's talk about how to properly plaster the ceiling.

Introduction

Many people doubt that finishing the ceiling with plaster - reliable way do the job, are skeptical about it. But speaking essentially, such a finish has a very right to exist. Like any other option, it has its advantages and disadvantages.

Pros of plaster ceiling

• This is ideal for finishing drywall constructions. By means of plaster, all seams are easily sealed, as well as those places where self-tapping screws were screwed;
• The material is environmentally friendly. The plaster will not release any toxic substances into the air. This is highly valued these days;
• The cost of plaster is more than moderate. Compared with stretch ceilings, this option compares favorably with availability, in comparison with all analogues;
• The height of the ceiling will not decrease if it is plastered. If the ceiling height in your room is not high, it is often this quality that is decisive.

Plastering ceilings - disadvantages

It would not be fair to the reader to speak only of the merits, and overlook the shortcomings.

Are there any downsides to plaster ceilings?? Here everything looks like this:

1. If you know how to plaster a ceiling, you have probably heard that only those differences that do not exceed 50 mm can be smoothed out with plaster. This is not only due to the fact that the consumption of material will be too large - safety considerations also take place. For example, if a large layer of plaster falls from above, it is very dangerous: not only for human health, but also for his life!
2. Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is not the easiest finishing job. Certain skills come in handy here. Otherwise, the finishing process can take a very long time.

Preparing to plaster the ceiling

What needs to be done before plastering the ceiling yourself? Of course, certain preparatory work- without this, there is no way, as in many other finishing procedures. Let's talk more about preparation.

Surface cleaning

In the case when plastering of drywall is planned, you only need to seal the seams, as well as those places where the screws are installed. After - apply any finishing material. But if the task is more global - it is necessary to bring a shabby, old concrete ceiling into an aesthetic appearance - you will have to work carefully.

In this work, you definitely can not do without:

• Respirator;
• Films that cover the floor. If there is no film, old newspapers will always help;
• A set of sharp spatulas;
• Perforator (a drill with high power will also fit);
• Goggles (remains of old putty, concrete - all this will pour down, so eye protection is mandatory).

When all the elements and tools that are listed above are prepared and at hand, you can take up the process of cleaning the ceiling surface for its subsequent finishing.

The procedure here is:

• A layer of old plaster is removed with a spatula (if necessary, you can always sharpen the spatula - to make it easier to work).

When removing old coatings, also try to remove all uneven areas that protrude above the surface of the ceiling - they are not needed here.

• In order to seal the joints between the plates on the ceiling with really high quality, it is recommended to remove the old connecting materials. Of course, we are talking only about those fasteners that are weakly fixed. If some elements of the plaster cannot be easily dismantled, a perforator will always help you in such work;
• As a rule, such a ceiling is performed for painting. That is why the old layers of finishing material always have to.

It all depends on what kind of coating on the ceiling was earlier. The method of removal may be different - this is an individual matter.

Just watch the video: cleaning the ceiling before plastering - perhaps you will learn a lot of useful things for yourself during this lesson, which will definitely help in the future work.

Consider the most popular materials that have to be cleaned from the ceiling surface, as well as the methods that are ideal for this:

• To remove lime from the ceiling, proceed as follows: the ceiling is moistened, then the old layer is simply removed with a spatula;
• If you need to get rid of water-based paint, the surface of the ceiling is also wetted with water. Iodine is added to the composition of this water (for each liter no more than 20 ml). After that, everything is cleaned with a spatula (the tool must be sharp - for the effect to be maximum);
• To remove water-dispersed compositions, special solutions are used - some other option is hardly possible here.

What to do after the old coating was removed from the ceiling? Do so:

• The surface must be checked for the presence of fungi (they simply pose a danger to human health). To get rid of the fungus, if any, the ceiling is treated with water, which contains copper sulfate (5 grams of vitriol for each liter of water);
• When the ceiling dries completely, you can gradually take on the next stage of the plaster.

Leveling and kneading mortar

Before plastering the ceiling, you need to prepare the surface accordingly - we discussed this point in detail above. But it's not all there. The fact is that if the preparation is not completed completely, it will hardly be possible to count on the fact that the plaster of the ceiling will be durable and its surface will be even. In a word, it is the preparation that determines the success of the entire procedure.

If the height differences on the surface are more than 50 mm, then this method of finishing will have to be abandoned. It is better to choose for yourself the finish with plastic panels or the installation of a stretch ceiling.

How to level the ceiling before plastering? In general, the alignment process is very important point on the way to the goal, and we are going to make the coating aesthetic.

For ceiling leveling You will need the following tools and materials:

• Do not do without a dry plaster mixture;
• A primer is required (deep penetrating compositions are recommended for use);
• roller;
• Two trowels (one made of metal, the other made of plastic);
• Construction mixer to knead the solution (if not, a drill with a special nozzle will help);
• Also at hand should be sandpaper, putty and sickle.

The work is done in the following order:

• First, the surface is primed in two layers - this is necessary in order for the adhesion to be maximum;
• While the surface dries, you can make a plaster mortar. You will find all proportions on the packaging of the material. Be sure to observe the proportions - this is the only way you can count on the fact that the result of the work will be excellent.

Many professionals advise using gypsum plaster compositions for plastering the ceiling - they respond more easily to the shrinkage that a new house can give. In addition, the adhesion of gypsum plaster is higher - this is a fact.

• The mixing process is as follows: water is poured into a container, the mixture is poured into it and everything is mixed with a drill until the composition is completely homogeneous. The resulting mass should stand for five minutes, after which it is stirred once more - in order to surely remove all lumps.

Plastering the surface of the ceiling

When the primer has dried and the composition for application is prepared, you can take on the next step - applying plaster to the ceiling. He is also the most responsible in all the work - it was for this that we did all the procedures that were discussed above.

Installation of beacons

If it is necessary to finish the ceiling with plaster, then such elements are often used - this is necessary in order for the coating to acquire the highest possible evenness. Of course, an experienced finishing specialist can easily do without such a procedure, but ordinary person she needs.

Beacons are installed in this order:

1. A perforator drills holes around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. The step in this case should be slightly less than the length of the rule that you are using. This is due to the fact that you will align with them and it will be difficult. If you put beacons with a smaller interval, it won’t be worse for sure, because the more such structures you use, the more accurate the result will be
2. Then, dowels are inserted into the holes obtained - self-tapping screws are screwed into them. Further, there is an overlay of "tracks" from plaster between lighthouses. They must be positioned in such a way that they are slightly higher than the caps of the self-tapping screws.
3. Next, you need to take the profile strip and attach it directly to the track. The profile is pressed evenly until it starts to rest against the caps of the self-tapping screws. When the lighthouse is prepared, they begin to cover it with a solution
4. This simple method is used to install all the remaining beacons. Now you have to wait a bit and you can proceed to a new stage of plastering the ceiling.

How to put beacons when plastering the ceiling - see the thematic video. After viewing, you will definitely be able to do such work with your own hands and the result will be no worse than that of professional craftsmen.

Plastering the ceiling

It's time to move on to the main, final stage - the plaster mixture is applied to the ceiling. This work is done like this:

• The mortar is applied with a float so that its thickness is only slightly greater than the height of the beacons. Then it will need to be leveled - the tool is pressed against the surface very tightly so that there are no voids or shells left;
• When the first layer has been applied around the entire perimeter of the ceiling, a plaster mesh must be installed on it. It is this element that guarantees the strength of the entire coating. The grid should be pressed a little to the solution - the point is that it should stick to it.

In certain situations, it makes sense to use a galvanized mesh - for example, when there are significant irregularities on the ceiling surface. In this situation, in general, the first layer is recommended to be applied directly to the mesh.

Effort at the same time much more needs to be put in- after all, a thick mixture of solution should seep right through the cells.

• Once you have fixed the grid, it's time to take on the application of the second layer of plaster - it is applied on top of the grid. To remove all excess mortar, the rule is stretched along the plaster beacons. All excess will be removed as a result, the layer will be much smoother than before the procedure;
• When this operation is completed, the beacons must be removed - after all, over time they will simply rust and the entire ceiling will suffer from this. The plates should be dismantled before the plaster dries completely. All furrows from lighthouses are simply sealed with the same solution - to make everything accurate, use a level in such work.

Now we can say one thing - you definitely have an idea of ​​​​how to plaster the ceiling correctly, competently, in stages. At the end of the work, you can apply to the surface water-based paint or some other similar substance.

Only when they apply maximum perseverance and really try, they get the desired result - with ceiling work, this thesis is only confirmed.

That's all the work - nothing complicated. However, if for the first time something didn’t work out for you - you shouldn’t despair, without experience to perform plastering work, especially working with the ceiling - not every person can decide on this. Try to follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out!

Plastering the ceiling is an important stage in the repair of the ceiling surface. Regardless of which design method is chosen (painting, wallpapering, whitewashing), you will first have to level the ceiling. For this, purchased or self-prepared compositions are used.

How to plaster ceilings: with or without beacons

For plasterboard construction, slatted, suspended or stretch ceiling plaster is usually not needed. Before starting work, the old finish is removed, then the floor is primed. But, if the ceiling is supposed to be painted, then the base base must be perfectly flat, since the paint will make defects on the surface even more noticeable.

You can plaster ceilings using one of two technologies: with and without beacons. It is better to work with beacons to get a flat plane. But sometimes there are ceilings on which there are significant differences in height. On such surfaces, too thick a layer of the composition will fall off.

Professional craftsmen for such cases recommend installing plasterboard structures, and then covering them with plaster. Drywall will level the ceiling, while finishing will take less time. However, the suspension system will reduce the height of the room. In this case, it is better to plaster the ceiling without beacons.

The main task of the technology is to make the ceiling smooth in certain areas. Then the height differences will not be very striking, and the surface will look even. In this case, all work starts from the center of the room.

How to properly plaster ceilings: choosing a mixture

The procedure for preparing and applying the solution depends on which plaster for the ceiling is chosen. Each package is supplied with instructions, which indicate the exact proportions of the dilution of the mixture.

Suitable for plastering concrete ceilings. The advantages of such compounds are strength and long service life. In addition to performing the main function of leveling the plane, cement plaster is a versatile material that is used for interior and exterior work.

Buyers are alarmed by the myth that cement-based mixtures crack after drying. In fact, this is a misconception. Cracks on the surface appear as a result of a violation of the technology of work and the preparation of plaster:

• if the proportions of the components are not observed. Cement is a material that is sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity. As the cement dries, it shrinks. To prevent this from happening, fine-grained sand is added to modern formulations. Fillers make the plaster dense, therefore, during the hardening of the mixture, the stress on the plaster layer becomes less;
• forced drying will adversely affect the plastered surface. Do not use a hair dryer, fan or other equipment to speed up drying. This will cause the plaster layer to crust on the outside and remain damp on the inside.

Used for plastering ceilings made of wood or plasterboard. The result is a smooth and even surface.

Such compositions have the following advantages:

• dry quickly compared to cement counterparts. 3-4 hours are enough for the complete drying of the layer;
• adhere well to the ceiling surface;
• absorb excess moisture, do not give it back;
• gypsum mixtures include quartz, perlite or lime sand. These additives give the composition useful properties improve the quality of work.

Since the material dries quickly, you also need to work with gypsum plaster quickly, and dilute as much of the mixture as you can work out in one go.

Used for plastering clay ceilings and concrete floors. The pluses include:

• the solution can be prepared independently from natural clay, which will reduce the cost of finishing;
• material is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• the ability of clay to recover quickly allows you to repair a damaged section of the ceiling without replacing the entire coating.

Modern purchased formulations

According to professional craftsmen, the following types of plaster are of high quality:

• Knauf Rotband based on gypsum is used for finishing smooth ceiling and wall surfaces;
• Knauf Sevener - cement plaster with polymer additives is used to restore old plastered surfaces. Suitable for outdoor decoration;
• Bergauf Bau Interuer on a cement base with perlite fillers is used for finishing rooms with a normal level of humidity;
• Volma-Kholst - gypsum mixture for interior decoration rooms with normal humidity.

If you have not previously had experience with plaster, when choosing a composition, consider the time for complete solidification of the diluted mixture. During this period, it is necessary to fully develop the solution. Of the listed species, Volma freezes longer, faster than the rest of Knauf.

Any coating that is applied to a floor slab is a multi-layer composition. In addition, each layer must be performed qualitatively. Otherwise, the result of all work will suffer.

The putty mixture will better grasp the concrete floor if the ceiling is treated with a primer before applying the composition. Painting will also be faster and easier if plastered ceilings are primed. This will not only improve the adhesion of the two materials, but also the paint will lie more evenly.

Another plus in the piggy bank of the primer mixture is to ensure the strength of the decorative coating. Especially if the materials are prone to cracking and shedding.

There is also a primer that prevents the appearance and development of mold on the ceiling surface. The bactericidal components that make up such a primer make the ceiling safe for humans.

Conventionally, primers are divided into three types:

• deep penetration, penetrating deep into the material being processed. For example, "Ceresite";
• strengthening. The adhesive components included in the primer prevent cracking and shedding of surfaces. The disadvantage of this type is that the composition is not recommended for processing hard and dense surfaces, since after drying it forms a polymer film that peels off and falls off along with the finishing material. But for loose ceilings, this type is better than the rest;
• general purpose, improving the adhesion of decorative layers of materials to the base. Such compositions are used in the preparation of the ceiling surface for painting.

How to plaster a ceiling: rustication

For sealing joints, it is better to use gypsum-based plaster, which sets quickly, is plastic, and is pliable in work. Dilute the dry mixture to a homogeneous consistency, break up the lumps. Remove the old finish from the ceiling, embroider the rustication with construction tools (chisels, drills or perforators), remove dust and excess debris from the recesses, clean the joints with a metal brush. Prime the rustications with a deep penetration compound and proceed to embedding:

• fill too deep rusts mounting foam, wait until it dries, remove excess parts with a knife;
• Apply a small amount of plaster to the ceiling with a small spatula. The strokes should be neat with light pressure so that the mortar fills the space between the floor slabs;
• remove the excess solution with a spatula in the direction along the rust. If you work across, depressions are formed, which will become more pronounced after the mixture has solidified;
• simultaneously correct other surface defects;
• after the mortar has set, reinforce the joints with a sickle mesh. The joint of adjacent plates should be in the middle of the tape;
• coat the mesh with a layer of mortar 3-5 mm thick.

If the work is done correctly, the result will be a flat and smooth ceiling with missing seams between the floor slabs.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands will be easy and fast if you prepare the ceiling for work with high quality.

Surface preparation

Before applying the plaster mixture, the ceiling surface is first primed. For concrete floors, one coat of primer is sufficient. The composition will remove dust from the ceiling and create an adhesive layer for the plaster layer. If there are joints between the floor slabs, they first work with them, only then they proceed to align the ceiling plane.

If the work will be carried out on painted or whitewashed ceilings, the old finish is washed away with a soapy solution and removed with a spatula. After that, primed with two layers of primer. Each layer takes 1-1.5 hours to dry. The composition must dry well before plastering the ceiling.

When the surface is primed, assess the irregularities on the ceiling with a tape measure, applying measuring device one by one to all sites to find the lowest point. Beacons will be placed on plaster or alabaster from it.

Beacons are perforated planks with a protruding back. It serves as the basis for leveling the plaster mix. Before proceeding with the plastering of the ceiling with their own hands, beacons are installed:

• first markup is applied to the ceiling. The first beacon is installed 30 cm from the wall, the next - in increments of 120-130 cm;
• as each beacon is set, the accuracy is immediately checked using the building level. The resulting indicator is then transferred to opposite walls;
• self-tapping screws are screwed into the walls and a nylon thread is pulled, along which alignment is made;
• when the beacons are exposed, they wait for the solution to completely solidify and begin to plaster the ceiling.

To get a flat surface, use a spatula and a falcon. Using the second tool, the mixture is thrown onto the ceiling. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• dry plaster is diluted with water so that the composition resembles thick sour cream in consistency;
• apply the prepared solution to the ceiling by throwing or brush strokes. Choose the option that is easier and more convenient to work with;
• it is better to apply the composition in strips of 50-60 cm, gradually filling the space between adjacent beacons;
• then the rule is set on beacons, the mixture is leveled with a tool. In order for the plaster to adhere more closely to the ceiling, the rule is slightly swayed;
• the solution that remains on the instrument is removed with a spatula;
• check the area for evenness. In the presence of defects and depressions, add the mixture;
• leave the surface to dry for 5-8 hours.

If ceilings are plastered in wooden house, a special metal mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 cm is attached to the ceiling surface or a two-layer shingle is stuffed, deepening the nail heads into wooden slats. This is necessary to prevent cracking of the mixture after solidification. The plaster is applied in two layers, each carefully leveled with a spatula and dried.

The rusts formed after the removal of the lighthouses are filled with the same composition that was used for plastering. The rule for work is no longer needed, level the ceiling with a wide spatula. It remains only to wait for the complete drying of the surface. This will take 5-7 days.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is a simple process, but it requires accuracy and high-quality materials. At the same time, not a single stage of work can be left without attention. Only then will the plastered ceilings turn out to be even and smooth, ready for further finishing.

Related videos

Repair of any premises, whether residential or office, begins with the ceiling. Regardless of what kind of finish is provided for by the design project: whitewashing, painting or pasting with decorative panels, the surface to be treated must be prepared in accordance with all the rules.

Comparing various methods leveling the ceiling, you should find out what is the fundamental difference between plaster and putty? Both options for eliminating nervousness refer to the “wet” method, which is based on the use of various building mixtures and compositions. Ceiling alignment is considered “dry”, but they resort to such a cardinal solution to the problem as a last resort.

Surface puttying is performed as a finish before painting or wallpapering. The layer of material cannot exceed 3-4 mm. The peculiarity of such a coating is that its use is permissible on almost even surfaces with minor defects, inconspicuous cracks and small irregularities, since a finely dispersed putty mixture is not able to tighten and hide more significant problems.

Stucco screed is made on surfaces with height differences up to 45-50 mm. Thanks to coarse particles, the mixture easily copes with deep cracks and seams between slabs and ceilings. However, if the differences exceed 5 cm, it is not recommended to use plaster mixes - too thick a layer of material is not only aesthetically unattractive, but also dangerous due to the likelihood of cracking and peeling of the plaster from the ceiling, which can be a potential health hazard and lead to injury. In such situations, the best solution would be to install frame ceiling structures using slabs made of or stretch ceilings made of modern materials.

When choosing one or another method of finishing, you should take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of the material.

The advantages of plaster are in the following aspects:

The disadvantages of plaster mixes are as follows:

• there is a restriction on the maximum thickness of the plaster layer - experts do not recommend exceeding a threshold of 5 cm - with large differences, it is not advisable to level with this material and is characterized by a large consumption of the mixture;
• if it is not possible to do the work yourself, the services of professionals will cost a significant amount, plus consider the cost of the material itself;
• leveling the ceiling with plaster mixtures requires certain skills in working with materials and tools, and the process itself can take a very long time, since the main task is to make the surface smooth and even.

To plaster the ceiling on your own, you will need the following materials:

Step 1. Surface preparation

The preparatory stage is of great importance even if it is a new building. Ideally, the ceiling should be cleared down to a concrete slab.

Traces of mold, fungus and rust smudges should be removed with a wet sponge, and then wash the ceiling area with special compounds. Old and peeling layer of plaster and other building materials need to be removed.

Even if the coating looks durable and without noticeable signs of wear, experts recommend removing it. Firstly, sooner or later cracks may form on the ceiling, and secondly, such layering will steal extra centimeters of space.

The most suitable tool for the work is a narrow spatula. If layer finishing materials is difficult to remove, you can try to “beat” the treated area with a rubber hammer or use an electromechanical drill with a special brush attachment. It is very important not to forget to protect your eyes, head and respiratory tract from construction dust.

It is useless to blur the plaster with various solutions, since after such treatment a thin, smooth and difficult-to-remove layer remains on the ceiling surface, which will prevent high-quality work due to low adhesion, which can cause peeling and cracks in the applied plaster layer.

Relatively flat ceilings

The ceiling is plastered with two, less often three layers of the mixture. If there are minimal surface defects, it is allowed to apply plaster on selective areas, followed by leveling the material, but the craftsmen recommend applying at least one solid layer to the entire surface. If the irregularities are numerous and the estimated layer of plaster will exceed 10 mm, before starting work on the ceiling, you need to fix the paint grid - this will protect the coating from cracks and give greater strength.

Ceilings with large irregularities

If the surface differences are significant and are more than 2 cm, then alignment is best done using. Their installation is a responsible and important stage.

• The planned minimum thickness of the plaster layer depends only on the specific conditions of the room to be finished and the wishes of the owners. As a rule, a layer less than 5 mm is not applied when plastering.
• The amount of difference in the height of the ceiling, which must be eliminated by plastering.
• Master's skill level. For a professional, no more than 5% of the solution will go to waste, and for a beginner, at first, 15% of the stock may not be enough.

The resulting value will initially be expressed in kilograms. But dry plaster mixtures are sold in paper bags of 25 or 30 kilograms, and acquiring an open bag is a great stupidity, since no one can already guarantee the quality of the solution. This means that one way or another it will be necessary to round the amount of the purchased composition up to the whole number of bags. This stock will still not be superfluous - all the repairs are yet to come! This is also taken into account by the calculation program.

Despite modern technologies and materials used in renovation work, ceiling plastering is still the most popular way of finishing. In almost any apartment or private house, you can find a perfectly flat base covered with a layer of plaster.

Find a specialist who will perform finishing work on high level, won't be a big deal. However, the price of such services sometimes exceeds the cost of building materials. Therefore, many, wanting to save the family budget, are engaged in plastering the ceiling on their own. And this is not surprising, since everyone can master this method of leveling concrete bases. How to plaster the ceiling with your own hands?

Plastering, like any other finishing option, has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of this alignment method include:

1. Environmental friendliness. Plaster mixtures are made from absolutely safe for human body materials, so they are allowed to be used even in bedrooms and children's rooms.
2. Versatility. The special properties and high adhesion of this material allow it to be applied on any substrate (brick, concrete, wood or plasterboard). At the same time, they can perform not only internal, but also external work.
3. Preservation of the height of the room. Unlike leveling the GKL surface, plastering the ceiling has practically no effect on the height of the room.
4. Cheapness. The relatively low cost of plaster makes it a truly indispensable material with a limited budget.

To disadvantages this method leveling can only be attributed to the high dustiness of the work and some restrictions on the thickness of the applied layer. Experts recommend abandoning the plastering of a concrete ceiling if the height difference on it is more than 50 mm. Otherwise, the risk of cracking and peeling of the finish increases.

Varieties of plaster mixtures

Before plastering the ceiling, it is necessary to choose the right mixture, since it will depend on its composition and quality. appearance and service life of the finish. According to the type of binder, types of plaster can be divided into 4 groups:

1. Cement-sand is the cheapest material that you can not only buy ready-made, but also cook it yourself. Your solution is the best option for primary alignment.
2. Gypsum. Gypsum ceiling plaster is ideal for interior work. The small grain size of the material allows it to be used even as a finishing layer.
3. Polymer. Such compounds have increased strength, moisture resistance and flexibility, and also perfectly adhere to all building materials. However, their cost is an order of magnitude higher than plaster mixtures of other types. Therefore, this material is usually used in cases where it is required to plaster a ceiling with small height differences.
4. Clay. They are characterized by high flexibility, well resist high humidity and temperature extremes. Found their application in the decoration of ceilings in commercial premises.

Having decided on the type of plaster mixture, you can proceed to the preparatory and finishing work.

Preparing the ceiling for leveling

To level the concrete base with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

• electric drill with mixer nozzle;
• building level or laser level;
• ladder;
• a set of metal and rubber spatulas;
• long rule;
• trowel;
• Master OK;
• a hammer;
• wide brush or roller;
• sandpaper;
• container for mixing the solution;
• respirator and goggles;
• plaster mixture;
• deep penetration primer;
• reinforcing fabric;
• metal guides;
• fiberglass serpyanka-self-adhesive.

Before plastering the ceiling, it is necessary to make its thorough preparation, which consists in cleaning the working surface up to the floor slabs. First of all, using a metal spatula and a hammer, the old plaster is removed from the base. If in some places it sits firmly, it should first be moistened with plenty of water and left for several hours, and then scraped off.

All cracks and tile joints must also be cleaned and, if necessary, embroidered. If there are traces of fungus and mold on the concrete, such areas are additionally treated with antifungal compounds. In rooms with high humidity, antibacterial treatment is mandatory for the entire ceiling.

The main problem that the master may encounter when preparing to level the base of reinforced concrete slabs lies in sealing the tile joints, because in old houses they are quite wide. After cleaning these places, a deep penetration primer should be applied, and then puttied with a thick cement mixture. If the thickness of the solution is more than 30 mm, it is better to seal in 2 passes. In this case, the second layer is applied after setting the previous one. To prevent cracking and shedding of the plaster during seasonal shifts of the plates, the docking points after applying the first ball of cement are glued with a fiberglass sickle.

Having got rid of the tile joints, the entire perimeter of the ceiling near the walls should be plastered in the same way. If in some places the cracks are very deep, before applying the cement mortar, they can be filled with mounting foam or clogged with rags, having previously moistened it with a primer.

At the last stage of preparation, the thoroughly cleaned surface is treated with a deep penetration primer in 2 layers. This process allows you to improve the adhesion of plaster to concrete, thereby extending the life of the finish. After the primer dries, you can apply plaster to the ceiling.

Plastering a concrete ceiling

Depending on the degree of unevenness of the concrete base, leveling can be done in 2 ways:

• without beacons with the application of one or more layers of the solution;
• by lighthouses.

The first method is suitable for more or less even surfaces with minor defects. The sequence of work will be as follows:

1. In a metal container, a cement-sand, gypsum or polymer mortar is prepared according to the proportions indicated on the packaging from the dry mix. To avoid the formation of lumps, everything is thoroughly mixed with a drill with a mixer nozzle.
2. With the help of a trowel, the first layer is laid - spray.
3. The applied solution is leveled with a trowel. Excess plaster is immediately removed.
4. After setting the first ball, the second one is mounted. If the total thickness of the plaster is more than 10 mm, a reinforcing mesh of nylon fiber is additionally laid.
5. The last layer is applied over the mesh with a trowel, which is carefully leveled with a trowel.
6. When the mortar sets a little, the working surface is grouted, at which all irregularities are finally smoothed out.

If the concrete base has a height difference of more than 30 mm, it is recommended to level it along the guide rails. Plastering the ceiling on the lighthouses will look like this:

1. With the help of a laser level installed under the ceiling, the maximum height differences are detected, and then the zero level is indicated. This conditional plane is transferred to all walls and is beaten off with a masking cord.
2. Perforated slats are exposed along the received line. Each beacon is fixed to the ceiling with a thick gypsum mixture. This installation method will allow you to install all the guides exactly on the mark. For example, if any element protrudes from a common plane, more mortar is placed under it. The first beacon is mounted at a distance of 20-30 cm from the wall. Subsequent rails are attached to the floor slabs in increments of 120-130 cm.
3. After that, the prepared solution is applied to the ceiling between the beacons and leveled with the rule. Excess mixture is removed into a common container.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands on the lighthouses is carried out in stages, that is, first we completely plaster one span, and then move on to the next. At the same time, the evenness of each section is rechecked with a laser or conventional level. When the plastered ceiling dries out a little, the beacons must be removed, and the gaps formed should be filled with a newly prepared solution of the same consistency.

After the plaster has completely hardened on the ceiling, you should walk with sandpaper to remove the resulting defects. At the last stage of work, the base is puttyed, and then it is painted, whitewashed or wallpapered.