What variety electrical appliances in shops! Everything seems to be necessary. However, having come home, it turns out that there is nowhere to connect it already. And again to the store for a tee or extension cord. And then dissatisfaction: either the wires are underfoot, or the same tee does not look. That's when the desire appears - so that there are enough connection points, and they look. As long as there is demand, there is supply. The industry has long been producing double and triple sockets.

The range of these devices is huge: and color, and shape, and size. It seems that it is easier - to choose which one you like, and that's it. However, there are manufacturers who make low-quality material, and in order to buy it, they make it beautiful. How to choose a beautiful and high-quality outlet? There are two types:

with spade contacts;
with spring contacts.

The former are easier to manufacture and therefore, as a rule, cheaper. They can be used to connect low-power electrical appliances or where the plug is rarely pulled out, such as a TV. Under heavy loads, the contacts heat up and lose their elasticity. With frequent use of the socket, the contacts are deformed. In both cases, a gap appears between the plug and the socket contacts, which leads to sparking and heating. This, in turn, can cause either a short circuit or a fire.

The second design is more complex and expensive. It has a movable contact, which is pressed against the stop with a spring. The distance between the movable and fixed contacts is easily changed, which makes it possible to use such a device frequently. Clinging tightly to the plug, the contact allows you to use high current, and hence the power.

The second thing you should pay attention to when buying is the material of the mounting platform - what the contacts and terminals for connecting wires are attached to. They also come in two types:

from ceramics;
from plastic.

Ceramics is not only a good insulator, but also absolutely non-combustible. Does not deform when the temperature changes. The second material also does not conduct electricity. But some manufacturers use combustible material in order to save money. This can lead to both fire and toxic gas poisoning.

But that's not all. You need to be discerning. What will the socket be used for? And in the future? Today it will be needed to recharge the phone, and after some time, perhaps, a powerful vacuum cleaner will be connected to it. Will it then function normally? To do this, you need to know what current will pass through it. Manufacturers usually indicate on the back of the case the voltage and current that the device is designed for.

If you put three single sockets in a row, they won’t look, you need a finished composition.

Ready-made three-socket blocks are sold, and there is also a separate front panel that covers three nearby sockets. The choice will depend on the cost, and on the model you like. When buying a panel, you will need to match the sockets to it so that they fit exactly together.

Determination of the installation location

Where to put the socket block? Comfort, aesthetics, and safety are all taken into account. But it is necessary to take into account the safety rules and technical operation. If you look at European standards, then the distance between the floor and such a block should be 20-40 cm, according to Soviet - 100-120 cm . Perhaps the location will depend on the installation method.. And she happens:

outdoor;
internal.

Outdoor is used in old buildings, in industrial, non-residential premises. Produced directly on the wall. The cable or wires are placed in a tray made of non-combustible material.

In new houses and in premises after renovation, as a rule, internal or hidden wiring is installed, as well as sockets with switches. In any case, wires from junction box to the outlet must be laid strictly vertically or horizontally. This must be taken into account when choosing a place, so that later you do not have to go around obstacles.

Preparatory work

We are talking about installing a triple socket internal. Again, there are two installation methods:

with one socket;
with three sockets.

Whatever the choice, it is necessary to mark the installation site. Some recommend using a level, however, if the floor is not level, the design will look uneven. Therefore, it is better to make the socket for the outlet a little larger so that you can adjust it. If you decide to install a triple socket in one socket, then you need to measure the dimensions of the socket, make a tolerance and gouge a hole in the wall.

When installing three single sockets, you need to put a socket under each of them. Here special precision is needed. It is necessary not only to set the level, but also to calculate the distances so that each of them enters its socket on the front panel.

It is necessary to fasten the socket box firmly, even a little laxity can destroy the plaster, and it will be unpleasant for yourself. You can fix it with dowels, if you have the skill, as you can destroy the socket. However, it will be more practical to use screws, who knows, you may have to change or remove them.

The stores sell kits: screws and sleeves. We put the socket box in the hollowed out socket and mark the place for the fasteners. We drill a hole along the diameter of the sleeve (it can be a little less, but not more) and insert the sleeve, it should hold firmly. When tightening the screw, the sleeve will press even more tightly against the wall. If the wall is brick, you can use an ordinary drill, although if there is a soldered one, the desired diameter is better. For concrete, it’s definitely worth taking a soldered drill, since they are now freely sold.

Wire preparation

It's time to think about laying cables or wires. To do this, you need to decide what you will use. According to the rules, each outlet must have its own wire. If the sockets are provided with grounding, then one more conductor is additionally needed. The earth wire is used without insulation.

It would be nice to have one or two cores in stock. When connecting a triple socket, one of the cores can be damaged. Aluminum wire, especially if cut, breaks easily. You can make a mistake and cut shorter than necessary. During work, due to heavy load wires may burn. That's when the backup core will be more than ever useful.

A little more about the material of the conductive conductor. Earlier it was said about the need to think under what load the outlet will work. This is true for wire as well. There are many reference books, tables for calculating the cross section of a conductor, depending on the current passing through it. A stranded conductor carries much more current than a single-core conductor of the same cross section. Based on this, you can decide what will be used - wire or cable.

After you have bought everything you need, draw a line on the wall from the main electrical outlet or box to the nest you made.

Remember, the line must go strictly vertically or horizontally. Hollow out the track so that the cable or wires go completely under the plaster. If there is a suspicion that there will be wiring nearby, it is necessary to de-energize the apartment.

This is possible when the gasket is made to the box, which is nearby, but slightly to the side.

Before installing the socket box, a hole for the wire (cable) is drilled in the case. If there are three of them, then in each of them. After that we fix it to the wall. After securing one end, check the level. If one outlet is crooked, it is hardly noticeable, but if it is triple, it immediately catches the eye. Screw the sockets and go to the wire.

Before you fix the cable, ring all its cores and mark them. In some cables, the insulation of each core is colored in its own color. If wires are used, marking is not needed, but it is necessary to ring. After that, lay them in the groove and secure. Measure the end that will be connected to the network so that it is enough to put it into the box and connect it. Do not forget about the rule - always leave a reserve, even if more is better than not enough. Do not connect to the network yet.

Insert the other end into the socket and connect to the socket terminals. Check the integrity of the wires and the correct connection. This can be done in the following way. A jumper is made from a bare wire and inserted into a socket, then this circuit is called. The same is done with the second and third. Grounding is connected separately, if it is not there, you will have to do it yourself.

It remains to plaster the wires and the socket. If the holes for the wires are very large, they must be sealed so that the plaster does not get inside. After the plaster has dried, seal the wall and cover the triple outlet. It remains to figure out how to connect a triple outlet to the network. Connection can be of two types:

to an existing box, for example, we change a single outlet to a triple one;
directly to the center line.

Connection in a box

First of all, completely de-energize the apartment. Never try to work under voltage! Open the box and inspect the connections. If they are wrapped with electrical tape - unwind, put on caps - remove. This is done in order to provide access to conductive elements. At the same time, try on if the wires fit in the box?

Check the bare wires in the box to make sure they are not touching and apply voltage. Next, it will be necessary to determine where the phase is located - the conductor through which the current comes. You can use an indicator or a device that measures voltage. Everything is clear with the indicator: touch the conductive element, if a light signal appears - this is a phase.

The device is another matter. As it is measured alternating current, it is impossible to understand where the phase is, and where is zero. Therefore, the person himself is used as zero. The probe of the device is taken in one hand, and the other touches all connections in turn. There is no need to be afraid: the current passing through the circuit will be so small that the most sensitive person will not feel it. But for this, the connected scale of the measured voltage on the device must be at least 250 volts.

If there are more than two connection points in the box, you must make sure that the found phase connection refers to the center line.

Connect the phase to the three stripped wires that go to the contacts of the three outlets. The other three, connected to other socket contacts, connect to zero - this is another wire of the central line.

Line connection

To connect to the central line, purchase a junction box in advance. De-energize the apartment, cut the wire of the central line, install the box, strip the wires of the central line and from the outlet, put it all into the box. Connect the wires from the first contacts of the socket to one conductor of the line, connect the wires of the other contacts of the socket to another conductor. Connect the earth to the earth conductor.

How to choose a socket of the desired diameter and the tricks of its installation. Triple socket in one socket

When installing modern sockets or indoor switches, their mechanisms must be placed in a special plastic box - a socket box. Today, almost all electrical fittings are made in such a way that it allows you to install several sockets or switches in one row.

Agree that one outlet in the kitchen is no longer enough, and outlets installed at different ends of the wall are not always convenient to use. Therefore, often an electrician is designed in such a way that several points for connection are located in one place. household appliances. It is very practical and functional.

Some masters unknowingly assemble not under one multi-gang frame, but install free-standing sockets next to each other. This design does not create the impression of a single whole device, because of this, such an installation does not look very nice.

When installing a socket block, professionals always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows. But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation, sockets can hardly be installed in boxes, due to the fact that they overlap each other.

The decorative frame in this case also does not fall into place. This is due to the fact that when installing the socket boxes, the distance between their centers was not respected. Ideally, the distance between the centers of the sockets should be 71 mm. And when installing a large number of boxes, they begin to shift relative to each other or deform under the action of the putty mixture.

Good afternoon dear friends! I am glad to welcome you again on the Electrician in the House website. In this article, we will talk about one simple and, at the same time, useful thing for installing socket boxes in walls made of brick, concrete and gas blocks. Those people who are professionally engaged in electrical installation know how difficult it is sometimes to install a block of five outlets evenly.

With the help of a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, you can install socket boxes with an accuracy of a millimeter. Such things are not produced by industrial enterprises, so the craftsmen independently make homemade products suitable for them. This fixture in electrician slang is called a template for installing socket boxes. There are also names such as conductor or layout, but they all perform the same function.

Plank for installing socket boxes

Most plastic outlet boxes are 68mm in diameter and about 45mm deep. Boxes from different manufacturers may differ slightly in size and characteristics, but the functionality is the same for all - being assembled into a block, they provide a center-to-center distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.

To prevent the boxes from dancing relative to each other during installation, they must be rigidly fixed to each other. How are boxes assembled into a block? Consider the firm's sockets Schneider Electric for indoor installation. If you look closely at the front, there are special latches for docking several boxes.

You can also dock the boxes using special connectors - plugs.

At first glance, the matter seems simple - after collecting the boxes into a block, the required center-to-center dimensions are automatically obtained. Why is a template needed at all for installing socket boxes? Everything fits together so well.

However, it should be borne in mind that in order to fix the socket, the entire space between the walls of the hole in the wall and the socket itself should be filled with mortar. Therefore, the laying of the solution in the nest is carried out in excess. And when you start to press the box into place, the solution will begin to come out of all the cracks, filling the voids, resulting in a very strong fixation of the socket box.

But when pressing the box, it is necessary to apply a fair amount of force, under the influence of which the plastic box can simply burst or change shape (become oval), and a block of several boxes will surely blur into different sides. At the final stage of installing the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate for all these shortcomings with calipers.

Moreover, during installation, the boxes must be clearly leveled so that the ends do not protrude and are not recessed, but are flush with the wall. When installing the socket block with your bare hands, this can be done, but a lot of time and effort is spent on this.

It was to solve such problems that I made myself such a device as a template for installing socket boxes, which saves not only time, but also nerves.

How to make a template for installing socket boxes with your own hands

Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device. To do this, I took an aluminum corner measuring 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the number of socket boxes installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for attaching the corner to the wall (approximately 10 - 15 cm on each side). I decided to make a layout for five socket boxes, so I took a 60 cm long corner.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to make a template from a corner, and even more so from aluminum. You can take any rigid material of arbitrary shape, who has what, for example, a pipe profile. The convenience of the aluminum template is in its lightness. By the way, there were ideas to make a layout from a din rail, there is no need to drill holes there.

Now, in the center of the rib, where the boxes will be attached, you need to mark the line. On both sides of the corner, using a tape measure, we find the center and mark a line with a pencil.

Along the marked line, we will drill holes for mounting the socket boxes using self-tapping screws. Our template for installing socket boxes is almost ready. Let's start drilling holes. To do this, a screwdriver and a metal drill with a size of 3 mm will help us.

We retreat from the edge of the corner 12 cm and drill the first hole. To prevent the drill from slipping off the intended drilling site, I recommend that it be punched.

Then we measure the distance between the centers of the socket box screws and transfer it to our template. I got 60 mm. This will be the point for drilling the second hole. Similarly, we drill holes for all the sockets in the block.

Trying on a box on a plank

We retreat 5 cm along the edges of the corner and drill two more holes. During installation, this will help to press the entire structure against the wall.

Now we fix all the sockets on the finished layout, we get an even design that can be inserted into the wall without distortions and bends.

Let's see what distance we got between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:

To install the block of sockets, using a template, we throw a little solution into the hole in the wall, put the wires into the sockets and attach the template to the wall. First you need to drill holes in the wall. We fix the corner to the wall with dowels.

The convenience of this design is that all boxes are installed with the exact distance relative to each other, and there is no need to constantly align and correct each box until the mortar is completely dry. Also, deformation of the boxes is excluded, and all of them are exposed flush with the wall.

You can make sharpening along the edges so that it is convenient to set the template horizontally.

I hope, dear friends, the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you facilitate and speed up installation. Who has any opinions? Maybe someone already uses this design or have opinions on how to improve it. Let's share our experience.

review of the best models. Do-it-yourself installation and connection instructions

What an outlet looks like and why it is needed is known to everyone, even little child, since from an early age we are taught where not to stick our fingers. We are all used to the appearance of this fitting and take it for granted, but what if there is a need to replace or connect where it was not there before? That is why we will consider how to properly install a socket with grounding with your own hands.

Brief content of the article:

What is a grounded socket?

The design consists of a plastic body together with the working part. Additionally, there is a third metal contact, which is the ground. Installation of this type of sockets is possible only in the house where wiring with three cores has already been laid.

Otherwise, it will not be able to carry out its overcurrent protection function if only 2 pins are connected. But from the point of view of the safety of electrical appliances, it is not recommended to use it without connecting the ground.

The advantage of this socket is that the grounding contacts first touch and only after that the electrical contacts of the plug enter the socket. This removes the voltage in electrical appliances and will protect in the event of a device malfunction. There are 2 types of designs of electrical appliances with grounding: internal and external (overhead).

At internal sockets with grounding, all wiring is hidden in the wall and does not cause any inconvenience about this and is the most popular option in modern homes. The whole mechanism is placed in a special hole and hidden in the case. In the event of a malfunction, it is not difficult to repair it. The built-in decorative cover does not spoil the general interior of the room.

Surface-mounted sockets with grounding have a rear surface-mounted cover with holes for easy wall mounting. A large recess is not required since the entire mechanism is external, only a few holes for fixing the rear panel of the socket with dowels.

The location of the electrical cable can be, for example, inside a corrugated pipe, cable channel or without additional protection. It is also possible to hide it in the cavity of the wall or use a strobe.

The instruction for a grounded outlet is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. An ordinary user can easily handle this on their own, just understand the theoretical part, be careful when connecting, and follow the sequence. Before you start installing a new outlet, make sure what type of wiring you are dealing with. Earlier we mentioned that the presence of three wires indicates that the outlet has a ground wire.

Installation

The first thing to do is to turn off the power in the switchboard and you can verify this by connecting any electrical appliance. Next, we proceed to dismantle the old outlet. Clean the socket from dust or residue finishing materials if something accidentally breaks off.

The next step is to work with the wires. Determine which wire corresponds to "phase", "zero", and which "ground", special devices will help you with this. The indicator screwdriver, when in contact with the phase, lights up, on zero and ground - no. With a multimeter, you can check the grounding in the outlet.

After the cable with the phase has been determined, one contact of the multimeter is fixed on it, and find the “ground” with the other. 220V indicates that you have "zero" in front of you, if the indicator is less than this number - this is a ground wire. Also, according to the requirements, the wires must differ in colors, which simplifies the task and makes it possible to remember where which cable is.

It's easy to remember:

"Earth" - painted in yellow-green color (or just separately yellow or green). It is diverted to the lower or middle terminal;
"Zero" is almost always a blue cable, in rare cases it is replaced by a black one;
"Phase" can be any color other than blue, yellow or green. In most cases it is white, red or brown.

Several sockets in one socket

The modern house is more and more filled with a variety of electrical appliances and it becomes necessary to use several of them at the same time. That is why double and triple sockets with grounding began to be in great demand. To a greater extent this applies to the kitchen. Each housewife will notice the significant convenience of this kind of design, since it is not always possible to use an extension cord, plus it is not entirely comfortable.

The place for installation plays a huge role, the functionality of the device directly depends on it. If this is a kitchen, it is more convenient to choose a place above the countertop, where most of all electrical appliances are located. In the living room or bedroom, it is good to place a triple socket in the media zone, behind the TV or near the computer.

As well as standard sockets, triple sockets are internal, external (external) and overhead. Installation of each type involves the simultaneous collection of all three connectors.

For comfortable use and beautiful appearance, it is recommended to combine into one frame, consisting of three outlets. But all the insides must match the chosen shape. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of cases, their shapes and colors. Look suitable options for your interior, you can use the presented photos of sockets with grounding.

Installing a triple socket is a little more difficult, in this case you should have a building level with you so that the fixture looks neat and even. The design, according to the instructions, is located at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor.

The advantages of this option sockets:

They take up less space, there is an option to combine them;
Profitability. The whole mechanism will not cost much more than a conventional single socket, but here for the same price, as many as 2 or 3 connectors.
Ease of use, increased functionality in the home;
No spacers needed for additional wires.

The following facts will be a minus:

It will not work to make a good mount in a standard socket, because of its design, it is likely that the socket may fall out. Therefore, it becomes necessary to drill socket boxes for several modules;
The need for additional tools during installation;
Installation takes more time and effort, and the formation of dust and dirt is also inevitable.

Photo sockets with grounding

electrikmaster.ru

The diameter of the socket, its dimensions, installation features

If an apartment or a house is being renovated, then it is often necessary to install new sockets, change switches and even electrical wiring. In the case of walls made of concrete, brick, this can be difficult to do. It is important to correctly determine the diameter of the socket, its size, choose necessary tools.

Among what may be required is a special crown for concrete surface treatment. Such equipment is also suitable for drilling brick walls, concrete with additional reinforcement, stone, natural and artificial. A high-quality crown penetrates the structure of the material at an impressive distance - up to one and a half meters.

Important! It is better to refuse typical drills intended for processing metal, wood. They are not suitable, because in such conditions they quickly become unusable.

Determine the diameter

If installed triple socket in one socket, it is important to correctly determine the diameter. These indicators are determined by the size that the crown has, as well as other factors:

The design of the equipment is the diameter that the socket box has and its dimensions. Knowing these characteristics, you can safely go shopping for the right crown;
In order not to be mistaken, it is advisable to check for which socket boxes a particular crown is suitable;
If we are talking about standard concrete sockets, then their dimensions may vary, but the diameter is 68 millimeters. All modern sockets, other similar equipment correspond to them. Thus, for drilling, you can safely choose 68 mm crowns;
Equipment with a diameter of 70-75 millimeters is used much less frequently.

Where to begin

Before you start work, you should assemble the crown, doing it carefully and carefully - first the drill itself is fixed with bolts, then the threaded bowl. Among the main requirements for assembly are density, the absence of inconsistencies. Neglect of these recommendations can lead to deformation of the bowl or even the drilling element. In the worst case scenario, the person doing the work could be seriously injured.

Then you can start the drilling process using a puncher. An alternative to a hammer drill can be a percussion type drill. A regular drill won't work. You should first apply the markup, which will be convenient to navigate. In addition, for each of the items of equipment there are corresponding installation rules. Here are a number of standards that modern specialists try to adhere to in their work:

In residential premises - about 30 cm from the floor. This is a European standard, and the depth of the socket is calculated in accordance with it
Kitchen - about 100 cm from the countertop
Bathroom with washing machine- about a meter from the surface of household appliances
Pass-through type switches - about 90 cm from the floor line.

Important! These standards are not strict rules. It's about recommendations.

Hole Size Correction

It happens that the diameter of the concrete socket coincides with those of the crown perfectly. In the case of depth, discrepancies may be noted. However, this is easy to fix. All that needs to be done is to adjust the depth so that the socket slightly falls into the hole - not too much, just a few millimeters. The stock is needed so that not only the equipment itself can be placed in the hole, but also alabaster, another fixing solution.

After fixing the socket box, its protruding section is carefully cut off - thus, the element will be recessed to the desired depth and will be flush with the concrete, brick wall. The design will look neat
To connect the wire to the socket, a strobe is made - it should be located at the top. It is easy to make it with a puncher or even an ordinary chisel - it depends on the characteristics of the material from which the wall is made. It is important that the wire is placed neatly
The socket is turned over, on it you need to find a slot into which the wire will be placed. The best option is to fix the wire at the back. Thus, it will be much easier to install the equipment
The wire is inserted into the socket and in this form is placed in the previously prepared hole.

Important! The hole must be provided with a margin, which was mentioned above.

How to connect a double outlet to one socket - do-it-yourself installation

Replacing or installing an outlet in most cases does not require a call to the master at home. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the theory and safety rules in order to get to work and complete it quite successfully.

Often in the kitchen or in any other room where several household appliances are used at the same time, there is a catastrophic lack of a free outlet.

You can solve the problem if you install a double outlet.

What you need to know before connecting a double socket?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine what a phase and zero are in an electrician, i.e. wire accessory. To do this, you will need a tester screwdriver and rubber gloves.

The cover of the old outlet is removed and measurements are taken using the tester. In phase, the indicator will light up, and the absence of a light signal will indicate the neutral wire. Of course, there is cable marking by color, but it's better to play it safe.

Then the line is necessarily de-energized through the meter - this is the main safety rule. The levers of the machines are transferred to the off position! This is the bottom position of the switches.

The voltage is re-checked at the installation site of the double socket.

If there is still current on the phase (that is, the line is not de-energized), you must turn off all the machines, and not just those that, as you think, control the wires going to the outlet.

Before you install a double outlet, you will need the following tools and materials:

insulating tape;
sharp knife for stripping wires;
Phillips and flat screwdriver;
pliers.

In the process of connecting a grounded socket, you must remember the wiring rule: on the right - phase, on the left - neutral, and a ground cable is connected to the central or upper terminal of the device.

A separate article is devoted to identifying faults in sockets and repairing them.

Dual sockets are single-terminal devices equipped with distribution strips.

On a note. Such an outlet is not very convenient if you plan to use two powerful devices - the voltage is the same, but the current strength in each of the outlets will depend on the load of the neighboring one. Therefore, it is preferable to connect two outlets in parallel.

The cable is used with the same section as the main wiring in the room. The materials must also be the same. If the connection has been made aluminum wire, it is also used when connecting sockets.

Use of the device requires caution. The total load on this type of socket should not exceed 10-16 A.

Installation steps - do everything in order

The double socket connection diagram consists of the following steps:

A suitable place is chosen on the wall. Typically, the outlet is mounted near an electrical junction box or a wire running in the wall.
Its base is outlined in pencil. At the marked place, with the help of a perforator, a recess is made, sufficient to fit the inner case (glass) of the outlet.
A hole is made in the glass through which the wires are brought out, and then it is fixed with cement or alabaster. The solution is given time to solidify. You can also fix the glass with dowels, which will speed up the installation time.
The socket is unscrewed with a screwdriver. The outer panel is separated from the inner mechanism.
The wires in the glass (socket box) are shortened with pliers. Using a knife, the insulation is removed from each wire for a length of 0.8 to 1 centimeter. The edges of the cores are bent up for ease of assembly.

Important! It is impossible to fix the phase and neutral to the same plate. This will lead to the emergence short circuit and damage to all wiring.

Phase and neutral are attached to different terminals of the mechanism (side), and grounding is strengthened in the central connector.

The phase wire is brown or red (optionally black or white), the neutral is blue or blue-white, and the ground is always yellow-green. Typically, sockets of this type do not have a top and bottom (contacts are on both sides).

On a note. Do not strongly clamp the wires in the terminals, as applying too much force can damage them.

Then the mechanism is fixed in the glass with special screws (fixing). They are on the sides.
From above, the front panel is installed and clamped with screws.
The machines turn on, the socket is checked in operation. The test instrument is a simple desk lamp, and not some expensive household appliance like a TV or computer.

This completes the installation work. If the quality of the installation is in doubt, contact a professional electrician. He will inspect your work and make sure that the exploitation will not lead to defeat. electric shock.

Video on how to install a double socket

electronic24.net

triple sockets

Triple sockets allow you to connect up to three consumers in one place. These sockets have one power wire. In most cases, both for external and internal sockets, the block assembly method or the so-called stacked sockets are used. This method consists in the fact that the assembly is made up of three or more separate sockets.

External visible elements of the triple rosette

For convenience and a more aesthetic appearance of this design, the outer frames of individual sockets are replaced with one common (purchased separately) frame. When buying a frame, you should pay attention to the correspondence between the shape of the inside of the front panel of the socket and the shape of the frame. It is advisable to buy sockets with a square inside of the plastic panel (pictured right). They are more versatile in terms of options and installation directions. Although this is a matter of taste of the owner (customer).

This triple-assembly frame, although it has square places for socket covers, but the rounding of the corners is not the same as that of the frame in the right photo.

It should be remembered that the frames are available in various shapes and colors. Expensive sockets and switches are generally sold separately: in one box there is an inner part with contacts and in the other box there is an outer decorative cover with a frame. They produce overhead outer parts of various colors and shapes.

For outdoor sockets, specially designed (but not common) ones are produced, from which you can partially bite out part of the case and then assemble the triple assembly beautifully and tightly.

Installation elements of a triple socket.

In addition to special external elements for the equipment of triple sockets, type-setting installation boxes are used. This part is in the wall and is usually invisible to users.

Boxes for brick and concrete walls

Composite boxes have lugs or locks that allow you to accurately and securely assemble the wall-mounted part.

Strip wall boxes

For cavity walls (lining, drywall), one-piece triple installation boxes are also produced.

All of the above applies to quadruple, quintuple and other multi-place sockets. Boxes for cavity walls can also be used in solid walls (brick ...), while the clips can be removed

The location of the plugs (holes for the plug).

When installing and using three-place or more sockets, pay attention to the location of the connecting holes for the plugs. It is desirable that these holes go along or at an angle to the line of placement of sockets (see photo below). The transverse arrangement (as in the bottom photo) can make it difficult to connect the side plugs of electrical appliances.

When using tees - devices for temporarily connecting several consumers to a single outlet, you should be very careful. With this method of connection, there is an additional mechanical and electrical load on the contacts of the main outlet, which can lead to emergency situations.

The main cause of emergencies lies in the weakened contacts of the outlet. In case of poor contact, strong heating of both plugs and plug contacts occurs. At the same time, they are oxidized, melted, which leads to an even greater deterioration in contact and strong heating during subsequent connections. In the future, the outlet will burn out. And even a lot of power is not needed here.

The photo shows a melted-out extension cord to which a 1600-watt hair dryer was connected. The hair dryer worked for about 10 minutes. And the main problem was in the poor contact of the plug in the outlet. Before that, a plug with thick plugs was inserted, and then a plug with thin rods was inserted.

More reliable in this case, in my opinion, will be a multi-place socket with the inclusion of plugs of different standards (thickness) in “their” holes. For example, only plugs with thin rods are inserted into the left, and thick rods (Euro plugs) are inserted into the right.

You should also pay attention to the location connecting wire inside the assembly. In some boxes, it can get under the spacer clips on the inside of the outlet. In this case, the destruction of the insulation of the wire will occur with a possible short circuit of the conductive cores.

To connect sockets, it is desirable to use a monolithic wire with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm square (for example, VVG-1 3x2.5). Connect thicker wire to household socket problematic - it simply will not enter the connecting hole of the terminal. VVG wire-2 3x2.5, although it has the same effective cross section as that of VVG-1 3x2.5, the actual thickness of the conductive core of VVG-2 is greater due to the gaps between the individual wires of the bundle.

The VVG 3x2.5 wire allows you to transmit up to 5 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V. This is usually the total allowable power allocated by the RES for an average house or apartment.

Triple socket shapes. Multiple sockets and assemblies

Line blocks

triangular blocks

Temporary (tees) and Stationary internal

Installation of triple sockets

Installation of hidden triple sockets in a brick wall.

Consider the example of finalizing electrical wiring in a new building with plastered walls.

The main stages of work on the installation of triple sockets

Studying the electrical circuit
Marking at the location of electrical points (places for installing sockets and switches, junction boxes)
Chasing and laying wires
Installation of boxes for sockets and switches
Installation of electrical sockets, switches and other fittings.

There are several cable routing options.

Shtroblenie on the bottom of the wall - as in the photo. This option was chosen due to the lack of a floor, so that there would be no problems when installing skirting boards.
If there is a floor, wires can be laid in special skirting boards with built-in cable channels. This method is applicable even in residential equipped apartments.
In the absence of a special plinth, you can make a strobe at the very bottom of the wall under the plinth, removing it for a while. (Also applicable in already lived-in rooms.) Attention - do not damage the wire by fixing the plinth!

Adding a new outlet in an already equipped living space.

Under the existing (preferably low-lying) outlet, cut the wallpaper with a sharp knife. We spread them apart. We make a strobe to the plinth. We do the same in the place of the new outlet. We lay the cable along the strobe and under the plinth. We bring to a new outlet. We close the strobe. We glue the wallpaper (after the plaster has dried). The junction of the wallpaper is noticeable only after the story about its presence.

Installation of open outdoor (external) sockets on the wall.

You can use ready-made blocks

You can use dial-in external sockets.

When installing outdoor (overhead) sockets, pay attention to the back side of the socket.

External sockets are produced with an open back, which during installation will need to be covered with a special overlay.

External sockets with a closed back are also produced. Such a socket can be immediately fixed on the surface.

elektromonter.com.ua

I welcome you to the Ewro-remont.ru website. On this page we will talk about how easy and simple it is to install sockets and switches on your own.

Socket boxes are installed, as a rule, after plastering work. The fact is that when installing socket boxes or glasses, as they are also called, it is necessary that the edge of the socket box is flush with the wall, in extreme cases, it can be a little deeper from the edge of the wall, but not protrude from it, otherwise after installing the socket or switch, they will also stick out of the wall. In the event that a tile is glued on the wall in the future, the edges of the socket should protrude from the wall by the thickness of the tile and glue, that is, an average of 1-2 cm.

Socket boxes are installed only if the socket (switch) is internal, that is, it goes halfway into the wall. When the socket (switch) is outdoor, socket boxes are not installed.

When installing, it is necessary to ensure that the socket boxes are leveled, both in a vertical and horizontal position, depending on how you will install them,

Socket box concrete (ears for docking)

vertically or horizontally. Unless, of course, it's unique. Here it is necessary to explain, the sockets can consist of one socket (when a double or triple socket or switch, such sockets are joined using the ears of the “protrusions on the sides”), there are already solid sockets for two or three sockets (switches).

In the socket, the places marked with a dotted line must be cut off. In the future, a wire will pass through them from one socket to another.

Socket box concrete (docked)

Socket boxes can vary in shape, color, ears (protrusions on the sides), etc. Their main difference is that they are divided into two categories; the first for concrete, the second for installation in drywall. The installation difference is:

Drywall sockets during installation are bursting into the wall, usually with a screwdriver (special legs, “paws” made in the socket itself, and the shapes of the “legs” are very different).

Socket boxes for concrete are frozen into the wall with various plaster compositions or gypsum (alabaster).

Consider a specific example of installing a socket box.

It is necessary to decide how the socket boxes will be installed vertically or horizontally and at what height they will be. Now most often the height of sockets from the floor is 30 cm, the height of switches from the floor is 90 cm. We also determine the number of sockets (switches) at one point (that is, single, double, triple.).
If the socket is for drywall, then we make a hole in the drywall according to the level, according to the size of the socket, and insert it there, having previously started the electric wire. electric wire, also the wire is thrown inside 2-3-4 socket boxes docked together). After that, the "legs" are twisted, they are bursting inside the wall.
If the socket is for concrete, then in the wall, using a perforator, also by level, they hollow out a hole, a little larger than the socket itself, insert it there, insert a wire into it and freeze it with plaster, gypsum, alabaster, also by level. The work with the installation of socket boxes is completed.

When the fine finishing begins, we begin to install sockets and switches. When installing, de-energize the system

Installing an outlet.

If the apartment has grounding, then most likely you have a wire of three wires, if there is no grounding, then a wire of two wires. When choosing sockets, you need to look at whether they are grounded or not.

When we install a socket without grounding, the cores on the wire are slightly separated, stripped and inserted into the attachment points in the socket and fixed. The cores on such wires can be of the same color or white and blue. At correct connection- the white core is the phase, the blue one is zero.

When we install a socket with grounding, you need to check exactly where the phase is. Check with indicator screwdriver, the indicator lamp lights up. As a rule, on a three-core colorless wire, the phase and zero along the edges, the earth lived in the middle. If the wire is colored, then with the correct connection, the white wire is phase, blue is zero, yellow-green is ground. The earth core is fixed in the middle, the phase and zero at the edges, at the attachment points.

If the socket is double or triple, then the wires coming to the socket are fixed in it, extended and transferred to another socket.

Install the switch.

If there is only one switch - single:

A core with a white phase is inserted into the place for fixation, where the incoming arrow points. The zero core (on the switch, unlike the socket, the color can be any) is inserted where the outgoing arrow points.

If the switch is single - double:

The core with the phase is inserted into the place for fixation, where the incoming arrow points. The core zero is inserted where the outgoing arrow points. The second core is zero, it is inserted where the second outgoing arrow points.

When installing the second and third switches, zero is usually already set and the phase is taken from the first switch.

After gluing the wallpaper, or painting the walls (decoratives), install the frame on the switches and sockets.

We also read: How to connect a warm floor with your own hands

ewro-remont.com

Double socket in one socket, all models, prices, availability in warehouses, delivery in Russia

If you want to create a convenient electrical wiring without applying great effort and without creating many holes in the walls of the room, you should install double sockets in one socket. Such devices are produced by most companies involved in the production of electrical installation products. When buying double sockets, you should pay attention to their characteristics. In addition, experts recommend that you first familiarize yourself with the main pros and cons of such devices.

Main characteristics

Like other electrical installation products, double electrical sockets can have different current carrying capacity, which limits the power of devices connected to it. It is strictly forbidden to exceed this indicator - this may cause damage to equipment or the spread of fire. To determine the actual load level, it is enough to divide the power of consumers by the voltage in the network and add the reserve to the resulting indicator.

Dual internal electrical outlets can vary in security level. When installed in normal conditions, it is worth giving preference to accessories that comply with the IP20 standard, and in conditions of high humidity or dust - IP44. In new homes and other facilities, it is imperative to install double sockets with grounding, which protect a person from the effects of current leakage. Double sockets without grounding may only be installed in old residential buildings where there is no system for discharging electrical impulses.

Advantages and disadvantages

Dual electrical outlets have significant advantages that have made them very popular. Among them it is worth mentioning:

· Ease of installation of the socket box, no need to create two holes in the wall;

Possibility of installation in limited space;

Ease of installation and ease of wiring electrical network.

But dual sockets also have their drawbacks, which you have to put up with when installing them:

Reduced reliability of the mechanism;

Impossibility to install a stylish decorative frame;

· The tight arrangement of mechanisms, making it less convenient to connect large power supplies.

www.220.ru

Connecting a triple outlet for non-professionals can cause some confusion. But there is nothing complicated in this, and, following our simple tips, you can connect everything in just a few minutes.

The main thing here is attentiveness and not neglecting the safety rules.

Before proceeding directly to the connection, you should decide on the possibility and correctness of our decision. For this , rated current circuit breaker, which feeds this group, as well as the absence of prohibitions on the installation of sockets in a room of this type.

So:

Before installing a triple socket in an already working electrical network group, you should decide whether the circuit breaker can withstand the additional load. To do this, we need to calculate the possible rated current in the outlet. This is done by summing rated currents the most powerful consumers electrical energy that can be connected to this outlet.
If we know only the rated power of these devices, then we calculate the rated current based on the formula I \u003d P / U × cosα. Where I is the rated current, P is the rated power of the device (usually indicated in the passport or on the device case) and cosα is the coefficient the power of the electrical appliance (the instruction manual for the appliance should help you find its value, but if you did not find it, then you can take it equal to 1).
Now, summing up all the rated currents for a given group, we can check the compliance of the machine with these parameters. Often the machine needs to be replaced with a more powerful one. But if the socket is designed to connect low-power video and audio equipment, then this may not be required.

Note! According to clause 6.2.2 of the PUE, the maximum allowable rated current of the circuit breaker supplying the group network cannot be more than 25A. So, if you already have a 25A machine installed, then you will have to think about dividing the group or restrictions on connecting devices to this group.

Also, if installing a triple socket in an existing group involves controlling the cross section of the supply wire. Often, if the machine does not fit, then the existing wiring will not meet the new requirements. Therefore, again, you will have to think about the limitations of the connected load for this group.
And finally, you should decide, but is it possible to install an outlet here at all? It is impossible to mount the socket in bathrooms and storerooms. At the same time, there is an exception for bathrooms, which allows installation when installed in the power circuit of this group of an RCD.

In addition, if it must be installed on a combustible base, you should take care of its fire safety. To do this, mortgages under the outlet must be made of fireproof materials. Usually, steel products are used for this.

Installing a triple outlet

Assembling a triple socket

At the moment, there are a huge number of different sockets on the market. But either the price of them "bites", or they do not meet our requirements. Therefore, often a triple socket is assembled from three ordinary sockets.

How to make a triple outlet, we will now tell you:

For this we need three ordinary sockets, required by us nominal parameters. It can be one socket for 6A, the second for 10A and the third for 16A. The main thing is that they meet the above requirements. We also need an overlay for a triple outlet, which will create the appearance of a single whole.

We measure the required height from the floor, usually it is 30 cm, but you can choose any other height. At the installation site of the outlet, we draw a horizontal line parallel to the floor.
Now we remove the decorative covers on the front side of our single sockets and install a triple overlay in their place.
We put overhead boxes on sockets and apply our triple socket to the mark. We mark the place where the wall is shredded under the embedded boxes (see).

Note! If you use plastic embedded boxes with guides (they are also called mortgages for drywall), then it is enough to put on the mortgages and attach them to the installation site.

We drill the wall and install the embedded boxes. We fix them and install the sockets directly. If you did everything according to the dimensions, then you should get a good triple socket. At the same time, its price is often significantly lower than that of similar stationary counterparts. Now it remains to connect.

Connection from junction box

The most common case is to connect the outlet directly from. It is used in 99% of cases when installing socket groups, and also in most cases when adding sockets to existing groups.

So:

First of all, we make the connection between the sockets. To do this, we need a wire with a cross section no less than the wire with which we plan to connect.
From the outlet to which you plan to connect, we make jumpers to the adjacent outlet. And from the next - to the third outlet. In this case, we attach the ground wire to the ground contacts, and the zero and phase wires to the power ones.
Now our triple socket in one socket is ready to be connected. But before you do it, you should relieve the tension from the group with which you have to work. In addition, if wires of other groups pass through the junction box, they should also be de-energized.
We open the junction box and determine the phase, neutral and protective wires of our group. If your electrical network is installed in accordance with the PUE standards, then the blue wire is zero, yellow-green is protective and the third is phase. If this is not the case, then we are looking for these wires by briefly applying voltage. The search methodology is described in other articles on our site.
Now we connect the phase wire in the junction box and on the outlet, then we do the same with zero and protective. It is important not to confuse the place of connection of the protective wire; phase with zero can be connected to any power outlet contacts.

After connecting all the wires and closing the junction box, you can apply power and test the performance of our sockets.

Connecting one outlet to another

This method is often used when adding a new outlet to an existing group. It is designed to reduce the amount of work associated with wall chasing and reduce the final connection price. And although it is rarely used, it also has the right to exist.

In order to make such a connection with your own hands, you should first of all assemble our triple socket, as described above.
The next step is to remove the voltage from the outlet from which the connection is to be made.
Then we open this outlet and then we act according to the established scheme. In essence, we install a jumper, as between sockets in our triple socket.
This completes the connection and you can apply voltage to our entire socket group.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a triple outlet and assemble it from several single outlets. We hope this will help you in creating a comfortable electrical network for your home.

I would just like to note that additions to an existing network carry certain limitations. Therefore, they should be used only in exceptional cases.

triple sockets allow you to connect up to three consumers in one place. These sockets have one power wire. In most cases, both for external and internal sockets, the block assembly method or the so-called stacked sockets are used. This method consists in the fact that the assembly is made up of three or more separate sockets.

External visible elements of the triple rosette

This triple-assembly frame, although it has square places for socket covers, but the rounding of the corners is not the same as that of the frame in the right photo.

For outdoor sockets, specially designed (but not common) ones are produced, from which you can partially bite out part of the case and then assemble the triple assembly beautifully and tightly.

Installation elements of a triple socket.

In addition to special external elements for the equipment of triple sockets, type-setting installation boxes are used. This part is in the wall and is usually invisible to users.

Boxes for brick and concrete walls

Composite boxes have lugs or locks that allow you to accurately and securely assemble the wall-mounted part.

Strip wall boxes

For cavity walls (lining, drywall), one-piece triple installation boxes are also produced.

All of the above applies to quadruple, quintuple and other multi-place sockets. Boxes for cavity walls can also be used in solid walls (brick ...), while the clips can be removed

The location of the plugs (holes for the plug).

You should also pay attention to the location of the connecting wire inside the assembly. In some boxes, it can get under the spacer clips on the inside of the outlet. In this case, the destruction of the insulation of the wire will occur with a possible short circuit of the conductive cores.

To connect sockets, it is desirable to use a monolithic wire with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm square (for example, VVG-1 3x2.5). It is problematic to connect a thicker wire to a household outlet - it simply will not fit into the connecting hole of the terminal. Although the VVG-2 3x2.5 wire has an effective cross section the same as that of VVG-1 3x2.5, the actual thickness of the conductive core of VVG-2 is greater due to the gaps between the individual wires of the bundle.

The VVG 3x2.5 wire allows you to transmit up to 5 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V. This is usually the total allowable power allocated by the RES for an average house or apartment.

Triple socket shapes. Multiple sockets and assemblies

Line blocks

triangular blocks

Temporary (tees) and Stationary internal

Installation of triple sockets

Installation of hidden triple sockets in a brick wall.

Consider the example of finalizing electrical wiring in a new building with plastered walls.

The main stages of work on the installation of triple sockets

Studying the electrical circuit
Marking at the location of electrical points (places for installing sockets and switches, junction boxes)
Chasing and laying wires
Installation of boxes for sockets and switches
Installation of electrical sockets, switches and other fittings.

There are several cable routing options.

Shtroblenie on the bottom of the wall - as in the photo. This option was chosen due to the lack of a floor, so that there would be no problems when installing skirting boards.
If there is a floor, wires can be laid in special skirting boards with built-in cable channels. This method is applicable even in residential equipped apartments.
In the absence of a special plinth, you can make a strobe at the very bottom of the wall under the plinth, removing it for a while. (Also applicable in already lived-in rooms.) Attention - do not damage the wire by fixing the plinth!

Adding a new outlet in an already equipped living space.

Installation of open outdoor (external) sockets on the wall.

You can use ready-made blocks

You can use dial-in external sockets.

When installing outdoor (overhead) sockets, pay attention to the back side of the socket.

External sockets are produced with an open back, which during installation will need to be covered with a special overlay.

External sockets with a closed back are also produced. Such a socket can be immediately fixed on the surface.

H often one outlet is not enough and you have to invent something. Or insert a tee into it, or an extension cord. Let's solve this problem once and for all and make three from one outlet, that is, from a single one we will make a triple one. Here you can go in two ways: the first, as you know, is simpler, the second is more difficult, but the result of the effort justifies.

So, you decided to make three outlets instead of one, let's look at how this can be done.

Triple socket in one socket

The first is a simple option, it is to remove a single outlet and install a triple in its place in the same socket. Such sockets do not look very beautiful, they have a triangular shape, and it is not entirely easy to buy them, they are not very popular and, accordingly, few people sell them. The photo below shows such a triple socket, which is installed in one socket.

Installing it will not be a problem, we remove the old one, install a new one, it is described in a separate article.

Three sockets in one frame

The second option, although more time-consuming, but allows you to get a high-quality and modern socket device.

These are three socket mechanisms in one triple frame. To make three out of one outlet, you need to drill holes in the wall for the other two outlets. If you have wallpaper pasted, they must be carefully removed so that you can stick them back.

Making holes for sockets

Next to the hole for the outlet, we drill two more, on the right or left. If your wall is concrete, then drilling holes will be difficult, and not always possible. For example, in panel houses, drilling, ditching walls is generally impossible, but many do not even know about it. If the wall is plaster - this is the easiest option for arranging outlets. On a brick wall, it will also not be a big problem, monolithic concrete is a difficult option, but at least possible, unlike panels.

How to punch holes for sockets depends on the material of the wall. A gypsum wall can be chiselled with a perforator with a spatula nozzle. It is most convenient to drill with a drill bit, but not always and not everyone has such crowns. Buying a crown for the sake of 2 sockets is expensive, it costs at least 600 rubles at retail.

When chasing a gypsum wall, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to gouge it through and through. Typically, such a wall has a thickness of 75-80 mm. A brick wall can also be chiselled with a spatula nozzle. A good option is when holes are drilled around the socket with a drill 10-12 mm in diameter. and the insides are removed with a spatula. We strobe carefully, because we have a live wire here.

In the wall you can find fittings that can be cut off with a grinder, or simply go around by moving the socket a little if you can’t set the sockets to the desired depth. After the hole is ready, try on the sockets.

We moisten the hole for the triple socket with water, that is, we remove dust, this can be done with a brush. Be careful, because we have a live wire here.

We prepare and install a triple socket box

Do not forget to make holes in the socket for the wires, if you do not have them. Where it's needed. In order to connect three sockets to each other, so that current flows through all of them, inside the socket you need to lay a cable from one to the other and to the third. We make holes with this in mind, on the sockets there are usually already suitable, marked places for the holes.

We dilute the gypsum solution. Alabaster or gypsum plaster. Alabaster dries quickly, plaster takes a long time, it is best to mix them 1 to 1. Alabaster ( building plaster) dries for 3-5 minutes, so if you use it, you need

We coat the socket with a solution and install it in place. We check the verticality of the installation with a level, and also make sure that the socket is flush with the wall, this is usually checked with a spatula.

We cover all the remaining cracks, align the socket. We start the existing wire in the extreme outlet.

We glue wallpaper. For example, we have a triple socket with a TV socket.

The TV wire is connected separately to the third socket. From the far right socket, the wire starts up in the middle one. And, if the right extreme would also be power - from the middle to the extreme. To do this, a 20 cm cable is cut off, stripped and pushed into the hole between the sockets.

Installation of sockets in a triple socket

Sockets are installed one at a time. Each has two contacts, there is also a third - ground, if the sockets are grounded. We will not consider this option, in any case, if your sockets are grounded, then the third contact is not connected at all and remains empty.

The socket has two contacts at the top or bottom. We connect two phase wires to one of them, two zero wires to the other contact.

It looks like the photo above. We install the sockets in place, close the frame. This process is shown in detail in the article on installing sockets with your own hands. Do not forget to check the level to see if the outlet is level.