What variety electrical appliances in shops! Everything seems to be necessary. However, having come home, it turns out that there is nowhere to connect it already. And again to the store for a tee or extension cord. And then dissatisfaction: either the wires are underfoot, or the same tee does not look. That's when the desire appears - so that there are enough connection points, and they look. As long as there is demand, there is supply. The industry has long been producing double and triple sockets.

The range of these devices is huge: and color, and shape, and size. It seems that it is easier - to choose which one you like, and that's it. However, there are manufacturers who make low-quality material, and in order to buy it, they make it beautiful. How to choose a beautiful and high-quality outlet? There are two types:

1. with spade contacts;
2. with spring contacts.

The former are easier to manufacture and therefore, as a rule, cheaper. They can be used to connect low-power electrical appliances or where the plug is rarely pulled out, such as a TV. Under heavy loads, the contacts heat up and lose their elasticity. With frequent use of the socket, the contacts are deformed. In both cases, a gap appears between the plug and the socket contacts, which leads to sparking and heating. This, in turn, can cause either a short circuit or a fire.

The second design is more complex and expensive. It has a movable contact, which is pressed against the stop with a spring. The distance between the movable and fixed contacts is easily changed, which allows you to often use such a device. Clinging tightly to the plug, the contact allows you to use high current, and hence the power.

The second thing you should pay attention to when buying is the material of the mounting platform - what the contacts and terminals for connecting wires are attached to. They also come in two types:

1. from ceramics;
2. from plastic.

Ceramics is not only a good insulator, but also absolutely non-combustible. Does not deform when the temperature changes. The second material also does not conduct electricity. But some manufacturers use combustible material in order to save money. This can lead to both fire and toxic gas poisoning.

But that's not all. You need to be discerning. What will the socket be used for? And in the future? Today it will be needed to recharge the phone, and after some time, perhaps, a powerful vacuum cleaner will be connected to it. Will it then function normally? To do this, you need to know what current will pass through it. Manufacturers usually indicate on the back of the case the voltage and current that the device is designed for.

If you put three single sockets in a row, they won’t look, you need a finished composition.

Ready-made three-socket blocks are sold, and there is also a separate front panel that covers three nearby sockets. The choice will depend on the cost, and on the model you like. When buying a panel, you will need to match the sockets to it so that they fit exactly together.

Determination of the installation location

Where to put the socket block? Comfort, aesthetics, and safety are all taken into account. But it is necessary to take into account the safety rules and technical operation. If you look at European standards, then the distance between the floor and such a block should be 20-40 cm, according to Soviet - 100-120 cm . Perhaps the location will depend on the installation method.. And she happens:

• outdoor;
• internal.

Outdoor is used in old buildings, in industrial, non-residential premises. Produced directly on the wall. The cable or wires are placed in a tray made of non-combustible material.

In new houses and in premises after renovation, as a rule, internal or hidden wiring is installed, as well as sockets with switches. In any case, wires from junction box to the outlet must be laid strictly vertically or horizontally. This must be taken into account when choosing a place, so that later you do not have to go around obstacles.

Preparatory work

We are talking about installing a triple socket internal. Again, there are two installation methods:

1. with one socket;
2. with three sockets.

Whatever the choice, it is necessary to mark the installation site. Some recommend using a level, however, if the floor is not level, the design will look uneven. Therefore, it is better to make the socket for the outlet a little larger so that you can adjust it. If you decide to install a triple socket in one socket, then you need to measure the dimensions of the socket, make a tolerance and gouge a hole in the wall.

When installing three single sockets, you need to put a socket under each of them. Here special precision is needed. It is necessary not only to set the level, but also to calculate the distances so that each of them enters its socket on the front panel.

It is necessary to fasten the socket box firmly, even a little laxity can destroy the plaster, and it will be unpleasant for yourself. You can fix it with dowels, if you have the skill, as you can destroy the socket. However, it will be more practical to use screws, who knows, you may have to change or remove them.

The stores sell kits: screws and sleeves. We put the socket box in the hollowed out socket and mark the place for the fasteners. We drill a hole along the diameter of the sleeve (it can be a little less, but not more) and insert the sleeve, it should hold firmly. When tightening the screw, the sleeve will press even more tightly against the wall. If the wall is brick, you can use an ordinary drill, although if there is a soldered one, the desired diameter is better. For concrete, it’s definitely worth taking a soldered drill, since they are now freely sold.

Wire preparation

It's time to think about laying cables or wires. To do this, you need to decide what you will use. According to the rules, each outlet must have its own wire. If the sockets are provided with grounding, then one more conductor is additionally needed. The earth wire is used without insulation.

It would be nice to have one or two cores in stock. When connecting a triple socket, one of the cores can be damaged. aluminum wire, especially if it is cut, it breaks easily. You can make a mistake and cut shorter than necessary. During work, due to heavy load wires may burn. That's when the backup core will be more than ever useful.

A little more about the material of the conductive conductor. Earlier it was said about the need to think under what load the outlet will work. This is true for wire as well. There are many reference books, tables for calculating the cross section of a conductor, depending on the current passing through it. A stranded conductor carries much more current than a single-core conductor of the same cross section. Based on this, you can decide what will be used - wire or cable.

After you have bought everything you need, draw a line on the wall from the main electrical outlet or box to the nest you made.

Remember, the line must go strictly vertically or horizontally. Hollow out the track so that the cable or wires go completely under the plaster. If there is a suspicion that there will be wiring nearby, it is necessary to de-energize the apartment.

This is possible when the gasket is made to the box, which is nearby, but slightly to the side.

Before installing the socket box, a hole for the wire (cable) is drilled in the case. If there are three of them, then in each of them. After that we fix it to the wall. After securing one end, check the level. If one outlet is crooked, it is hardly noticeable, but if it is triple, it immediately catches the eye. Screw the sockets and go to the wire.

Before you fix the cable, ring all its cores and mark them. In some cables, the insulation of each core is colored in its own color. If wires are used, marking is not needed, but it is necessary to ring. After that, lay them in the groove and secure. Measure the end that will be connected to the network so that it is enough to put it into the box and connect it. Do not forget about the rule - always leave a reserve, even if more is better than not enough. Do not connect to the network yet.

Insert the other end into the socket and connect to the socket terminals. Check the integrity of the wires and the correct connection. This can be done in the following way. A jumper is made from a bare wire and inserted into a socket, then this circuit is called. The same is done with the second and third. Grounding is connected separately, if it is not there, you will have to do it yourself.

It remains to plaster the wires and the socket. If the holes for the wires are very large, they must be sealed so that the plaster does not get inside. After the plaster has dried, seal the wall and cover the triple outlet. It remains to figure out how to connect a triple outlet to the network. Connection can be of two types:

1. to an existing box, for example, we change a single outlet to a triple one;
2. directly to the center line.

Connection in a box

First of all, completely de-energize the apartment. Never try to work under voltage! Open the box and inspect the connections. If they are wrapped with electrical tape - unwind, put on caps - remove. This is done in order to provide access to conductive elements. At the same time, try on if the wires fit in the box?

Check the bare wires in the box to make sure they are not touching and apply voltage. Next, it will be necessary to determine where the phase is located - the conductor through which the current comes. You can use an indicator or a device that measures voltage. Everything is clear with the indicator: touch the conductive element, if a light signal appears - this is a phase.

The device is another matter. As it is measured alternating current, it is impossible to understand where the phase is, and where is zero. Therefore, the person himself is used as zero. The probe of the device is taken in one hand, and the other touches all connections in turn. There is no need to be afraid: the current passing through the circuit will be so small that the most sensitive person will not feel it. But for this, the connected scale of the measured voltage on the device must be at least 250 volts.

If there are more than two connection points in the box, you must make sure that the found phase connection refers to the center line.

Connect the phase to the three stripped wires that go to the contacts of the three outlets. The other three, connected to other socket contacts, connect to zero - this is another wire of the central line.

Line connection

To connect to the central line, purchase a junction box in advance. De-energize the apartment, cut the central line wire, install the box, strip the wires of the central line and from the outlet, put it all into the box. Connect the wires from the first contacts of the socket to one conductor of the line, connect the wires of the other contacts of the socket to another conductor. Connect the earth to the earth conductor.

In home and work life modern man surrounded by a mass of electrical appliances. For their full functioning, it is necessary to increase the number of connection points. Therefore, the triple socket is becoming more and more in demand.

A stationary specialized device closes contacts much more reliably, ensuring a safe supply of electricity to appliances and equipment. With particular acuteness, real problems are felt in the kitchen. In this room, a person spends about a third of his life. Cooking and eating food require maximum use of many electrical appliances.

Triple sockets are becoming popular in living rooms, bedrooms, offices. In these places it is often necessary to connect a group of interacting electrical appliances. With the accumulation of technology, their own or other people's miscalculations become clearer during the initial layout of devices.

In an effort to increase the number of connection points for electrical appliances, the inhabitants of the premises clutter up the space with a web of extension cords. To improve comfortable living, standard devices are loaded with twins or tees. Similar Constructive decisions create additional inconvenience, reduce the level of security:

• the mechanical effect on one connection point increases (leads to a breakdown or short circuit);
• the electrical load increases (an increased number of consumers leads to overheating of the wiring);
• the risk of various mechanical damage increases (a double or tee protrudes noticeably above the wall surface).

The dominance of extension cords, twins or tees, in addition to inconvenience and reduced security, noticeably worsens the interior. Installing triple sockets helps to correct such situations. Mounting such a block allows you to get several connection points at one point.

Design features

The design of the socket consists of a housing and an internal (working) part. Functionally important elements are terminals with attached springs for the plug and contacts. Most models are equipped with a ground connection device. This helps to reduce the voltage from the connected equipment, increase system security.

There are many types of products on the market today. When selecting specific modifications, one should take into account the features of the use of electrical appliances. A significant number of them are compatible with products of type C6 (euro). But standard devices such as C5 (Soviet) are still in demand. They differ from each other not only in appearance, but also in design features. In addition to a more attractive design, euro sockets are able to withstand high current (up to 16A, standard ones - up to 6A). Older models are not equipped with ground contacts. Round holes in euro sockets have a larger diameter for the corresponding plug rods.

Triple sockets may differ in the types of contacts. They are petal and spring. The former are considered not very reliable. Petals lose their rigidity and elasticity over time. Then, inserting the fork, they notice a spark. Spring contacts are characterized by greater wear resistance. They can safely operate for several decades.

When connecting a triple socket to a power source, it is best to know that it is equipped with brass contacts. The high quality of the product is complemented by a lid made of heat-resistant plastic and a ceramic core.

Main varieties

Manufacturers offer built-in sockets of various shapes. Masters often opt for devices that have a square shape. Such models are considered more universal.

triple socket happens:

• internal;
• external or external;
• embedded;
• overhead.

To install all modifications, use the block assembly method. This method allows you to connect three electrical appliances to one power wire at the same time. Experts recommend abandoning the external frames for autonomous sockets, replacing them with one common overlay. It is selected under the contours of the inner part.

Particular attention of consumers is attracted by a triple socket equipped with a switch. The design allows you to de-energize the unit for a short or long period. This eliminates short circuits or other malfunctions when the inhabitants are not in the room.

Installation of a triple outlet is carried out using a horizontal or vertical panel. Structurally, these blocks are carried out on 1 frame or on 3 stand-alone devices under a common overlay.

Selecting and determining the connection point

Before installing a triple socket in a designated point, it is necessary to form a general location geometry and ease of connection. To give the structure the maximum possible even line, a building level is necessarily used. The skew in the landing of the block not only spoils appearance, but also makes it difficult to connect the power wires.

A number of important requirements must be strictly observed. One of them boils down to the fact that there should be a distance of 72 mm between the centers of the sockets. Deviations up or down will lead to difficulties in fitting the decorative panel. This requirement must be taken into account in the process of marking.

As recommended modern design places for installing built-in products are determined according to European standards. The devices are placed in the wall at a height of 25-40 cm from the floor level. The final choice of installation site is determined by considerations of appropriate functionality and design.

Preparatory stage of mounting

At this stage, under the built-in socket boxes, seats are created using the strobing method. Use a perforator, various nozzles. You will need a chisel, screwdrivers, a hammer.

A strobe designed for laying wiring must have a strict horizontal or vertical line. The width and depth of the supply channel depend on the circumference of the cable. The most suitable for domestic conditions is a cable with a thickness adequate to a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2. However, the volume varies depending on the presence or absence of corrugations.

Installation of the socket

Before connecting a triple socket, it is necessary to securely fix the socket in the wall plane. It is recommended to place the built-in device in a monoblock. Then a single frame reliably combines 3 sockets.

Alabaster is used for mounting. It is important to calculate the amount of batch with sufficient accuracy. Excess will stick out, quickly harden. With a small amount, it will not be possible to ensure reliable fastening of the socket box.

The consistency of the alabaster mixture should not be too thick or runny. It is better to prepare batches in small portions. This ensures reliable adhesion of the material to the wall and the socket box. Actions are performed in a certain sequence:

1. it is advisable to drill 3 holes for wires in the socket;
2. the power cable is passed through the hole in the socket;
3. the diluted mixture is applied to the inner walls of the recess;
4. the block is inserted;
5. the design is set along strict geometric lines;
6. the socket for some time is securely fixed.

It is necessary to pay attention to the mounting screws: whether they correspond to the horizontal and vertical level of the installed devices. The final drying time of alabaster is 2 hours. After the mixture seizes, they take up the connection of a built-in outlet.

Wiring

You can pre-draw a parallel diagram of how to properly connect the built-in unit. On her different colors it is necessary to note the wires connecting the ground, zero, phase contacts. It is not recommended to connect in series according to the loop principle.

With the help of the indicator, the zero and phase conductors are determined. Switch off the power supply at the switchboard. According to the scheme, connections are made between the installed devices. Use wires with the same cross section.

Jumpers are made from one outlet to another. The protective conductor is attached to the grounding contacts. Zero and phase wiring are connected to power contacts. The places for connecting the ground wire are strictly observed. Zero or phase can be connected to arbitrary power contacts. The coloring of the cores has an established color tradition: zero - blue, phase - brown, grounding - yellow-green.

The ends of the cores are connected to the corresponding contacts, tightly fixed with screws. Then the cores are twisted inside the box. The design is leveled by tapping on the body. The fixing screws are tightened, decorative and external linings are installed.

Safety connection

Connecting a triple socket requires compliance with safety standards and regulations. Therefore, it is recommended to use special contact tips for twisting wires. They are inserted into the clamps, screwed on.

During installation work, it is necessary to use tools equipped with insulating handles. Electrical wires of great length are neatly twisted, avoiding bends at a small angle. You can hide the extra wire in the twist into the wall, but it is better to cut it to the specified length.

To build up the cores, soldering is used, not twisting. Use wires suitable for the power consumption of electrical appliances. Check the reliability of the insulation.

The safety and quality of electrical work depends on compliance with the prescribed rules. Then triple products will provide comfort when using electrical network and electrical appliances. At the slightest doubt in one's own abilities better installation entrust to professionals.

Installing an outlet in a ready-made socket box, it would seem, is a simple task. After all, often, drilling and installing the socket itself into the wall takes much more time.

However, even here there are nuances, misconceptions and rules that some may not know about, while others, on the contrary, argue to the last, insisting that they are right (for example, connecting a double socket with a loop).

Consider the main points and stages of this process.

Safety and tool

First of all, before the production of work, it is required to ensure safety. When replacing or installing sockets, always turn off the GENERAL introductory machine for the entire apartment or house, and not specifically on this outlet.

This must be done in order to break not only the phase, but also zero. After disconnection, check the absence of voltage with an indicator at the place of work.

Prepare the necessary tool:

You may also need:

Recessed socket box

The first rule concerns the socket itself. If you mount not a final, but a pass-through socket, that is, one on which the cable will not end, but go further down or sideways to other sockets or switches, always use recessed sockets.

The standard one comes with a depth of 45mm, and you need to take 60mm. This is necessary for compact placement of wires, especially the ground wire (why it is, will be discussed below).

Do not try to cram all the conductors, which is called back to back. There will be no benefit from such savings, but only one harm.

In addition, the installation itself will be better, more convenient and will not cause insoluble difficulties. For example, when the outlet or its frame will not fit snugly against the wall. Because of this, the veins will have to be shortened. Again, disassemble everything, re-mount and dismantle.

Here is a photo of a standard socket recessed in a standard socket.

All the space that remains inside it for wiring is about 1 cm. If you use a model with a depth of 60mm, then you will add as much as 1.5cm of mounting depth.

Feel what is called the difference.

Stripping length

When stripping the outer sheath of the cable, one should not strive to remove it to the maximum depth, i.e. up to the wall of the socket.

Always try to leave a few millimeters. Thus, the insulation of the cores will be protected from chafing or crushing by the sharp edges of the socket.

It is very convenient to do this on a NYM round cable, with a special Jokari puller.

Make a circular incision, and then immediately longitudinal. After that, even in cramped conditions, the shell is easily pulled out.

With flat cables of the brand VVG and, such a trick cannot be done.

And if it is still a GOST cable, and not a TU-shny one, then even more so.

As a rule, a knife with a heel cuts the outer insulation right up to the wall of the box.

That is why many electricians like the NYM cable brand, and not VVG. Because of the convenience of cutting and ease of working with it.

Although each brand has its own advantages and disadvantages.

By the way, in rare cases, you can also find a round-section VVG cable.

How much insulation must be removed from the core itself before it is brought into the contact? Much of course depends on the brand of the outlet.

Some models even have a template that is very easy to navigate.

But usually, the bare part of the core should not exceed 8-10mm.

The length of the wires protruding from the socket is selected based on:

• ease of installation

• socket depth

You must understand that the length that you leave will be useful in the future for convenient dismantling, pulling out and carrying out some kind of revision work. Or even replacing the outlet with a different model.

As a rule, leave a length equal to the width of 3-4 fingers.

Connecting sockets with a loop

The main nuance that causes heated debate among electricians is whether it is possible to connect the outlet with a cable? And in this matter, many are divided into 3 camps:

• possible in some cases

• you can always, if the design of the outlet allows

Most modern outlets always have two terminals for each wire: phase-zero-ground. Total 6 contacts.

It is assumed that in the through socket all six ends of the wires (3 incoming + 3 outgoing) can be safely brought into the terminals, clamped and be sure that everything is done correctly.

However, there is a paragraph of the rules of the EIC, clause 1.7.144, which reads:

That is, phase and neutral working conductors are connected by a loop without problems, but for the ground conductor, according to adherents of a categorical ban, this is unacceptable.

For him, it is necessary to make a branch. Moreover, it is desirable to perform it in a screwless way so that it does not have to be serviced (tightened) in the future. And this means - sleeve crimping, or soldering or welding.

The easiest and most convenient way to do this is by pressing. Fold the final section of the three cores that will be connected by crimping and select the appropriate sleeve.

For example, you have a 3 * 2.5mm2 power cable. Incoming core 2.5mm2 + branch to a socket 2.5mm2 + outgoing cable core to an adjacent socket 2.5mm2. Total theoretically - 7.5mm2.

Due to the fact that the actual cross-section of the cores does not always correspond to the declared one, and the weakening of the contacts is not permissible here, select a sleeve with a slightly smaller cross-section than the calculated one - GML-6.

Get the vein into the sleeve and crimp the press with tongs.

Always bite off the excess length of the sleeve so that it does not take up free space in the socket.

The resulting joint is best protected with heat shrink tubing.

Although, of course, no one forbids applying several layers of high-quality electrical tape.

Especially if you have a powerful one, without smooth temperature control. With such an apparatus, it is possible to inadvertently melt individual parts of the socket.

If you do it differently, using the factory socket terminals, what does it threaten? For example, you have two double sockets connected in series. One at a height of 90 cm, the other, just below it, at a level above the plinth.

Power to the bottom, comes from the top. If there is a break or violation of the ground contact in the very first of them, then automatically the "earth" will disappear on the rest.
Which is absolutely unacceptable.

However, many electricians are sure that the ban on such looping only applies to sockets located in different blocks, at a distance from each other. And this rule in no way applies to double sockets located in one block, united by a single frame.

That is, in fact, such a block is a kind of connector that has a single body. So, it can be considered as a single electrical installation product.

Most double-tees and even extensions are made in this way.

You will not be able to disassemble a single product without disconnecting the plugs from adjacent connectors. And since you have disconnected these plugs, then breaking the grounding conductor at the very first point will not affect anything.

But if the socket blocks are located far from each other, and do not have a common body, then it is absolutely impossible to connect them with a cable.

Well, the third interpreters of the paragraph of the rules of the PUE 1.7.144 reasonable notice that in the PUE itself, nothing is said about the prohibition of “loops”. There is even no such concept for outlets.

It says that the "Pe" conductor must be electrically inseparable (the essence of this word is electrically). And that it is impossible to include the current-carrying elements of the device in series in the circuit of the grounding conductor.

Neither one nor the other is in the loop. In most of these sockets for one terminal, both conductors are immediately clamped. Moreover, in an acceptable way (screw or spring).

Now, if the socket had an earth entrance on one side, and an exit on the other (from under another independent contact), then yes - it’s impossible! Moreover, the PUE does not consider the socket contacts as open conductive parts, so clause 1.7.144 has nothing to do with it.

Even if you are forced to dismantle one of the looped sockets in this way, in addition to the protective wire, you will break the phase and neutral conductors anyway.

Which of these opinions is correct and how to mount you?

If you do what is called for yourself and “for centuries”, so as not to look into the socket for decades, then put a sleeve and make a branch, not a loop.

The same applies to objects for delivery to regulatory authorities. In order not to redo all the wiring and not to prove your own reading of the PUE, to some energy supervision inspector, forget about looping. Do not give an extra reason for remarks.

Well, if you are firmly convinced that the cable is not a violation at all, and it was not in vain that socket manufacturers initially included the possibility of such a connection in their products, then at home you are free to act like supporters of the second and third methods.

In the end, this is your own house, and no one has the right to forbid you to do so, and not otherwise.

Caliper Location

The next question is how to properly position the socket support inside the socket - with the terminals down or up.

Some are guided by the inscriptions on the body. They should be legible and not upside down.

On the one hand, this is quite logical. But in reality, there is not much difference. This is not reflected in the regulatory documents.

Therefore, mount it the way you feel comfortable doing it. For example, focus on the incoming cable.

Phase left or right

Further, all that remains is to connect the cores to the outlet itself and install it inside. Here you can encounter the following point, which also causes disputes and contradictions among electricians.

Where exactly in the outlet to connect the wires? If everything is clear with the earth, for it there is a place in the middle, then where to start zero and phase?

On the left contact or on the right? Each electrician does this at his own discretion. Because, again, in the rules, there is no clear indication of where the phase should be connected to the outlet.

For example, it would be wrong for sockets in the hall, put the phase on the right terminal, and in the bedroom - on the left. If you have already connected one according to some scheme, connect all the others in the same way.

As for the colors of the connected cores, then it is already necessary to comply with the current standard.

Use the fixing screws on the sides to pre-fasten. Next, with a compact level of an electrician, check the horizontalness of the installation.

If everything is fine, tighten the screws completely. After that, do not forget to tighten two more internal fixing screws.

When they are tightened, the legs extend, with which the socket clings to the inner walls of the socket box.

In high-quality and expensive specimens, manufacturers make such paws double on each side.

All that remains is to install the front panel and overlay frame.

For some brands, such as Legrand, overhead frames are interchangeable.

That is, the fastening mechanism itself remains in the socket, and the plug-in element can be changed. For example, instead of the usual model with curtains, put a waterproof one (for the bathroom), or vice versa.

Another point concerns frames. If you are installing an outlet block, then keep in mind that not all brands have a square front panel. Most often it is rectangular.

And this means that you will not be able to insert it into a decorative frame in any way.

For example, to rotate 90 degrees, you will have to pick out a fastener with snaps from the frame, and also turn it at a right angle.

Only after that, everything is fixed without problems.

Thus, the same frame can be placed both in a vertical block of sockets and in a horizontal one.

The apartment usually has enough free sockets, but it often turns out that at least two devices must be included in one of them. The solution to the problem is very simple, if you take care in advance how to connect a double outlet. This is one of the most reliable ways to solve the problem of drop-out tees once and for all, loosening the contacts of single sockets in parallel.

What are double or triple sockets

The usual socket represents the metal contacts fixed in the dielectric case. Wires are attached to each of them with a bolted connection. A double socket, installed in one socket, consists of the same contacts, only they are made along the edges of the plate and each of them has a bolt fastening for a phase or neutral wire. Since a copper or brass plate in any case has a greater bandwidth than a wire, it is he who is a potential “weak link”, therefore, when connecting a double socket, tightening the contacts must be taken with all due attention.

The circuit diagram for connecting a triple socket is no different from a double socket - the phase and zero are connected to the contacts that are on copper or brass plates. Between themselves, triple sockets structurally differ in triangular or tape. Their second variety is the same double, but with an additional socket for the third plug - all contacts are on solid plates. Triangular, in turn, have to be made from several pieces, connecting them together with rivets. Theoretically, this somewhat reduces the reliability of the contacts, but if you do not violate the operating rules, then the triangular triple socket, installed in one socket, has been working flawlessly for many years.

Why a double socket

The disadvantages of the solution to put a double outlet are very difficult to find. Almost the only argument that is cited against is most likely simply “out of harm” and says that connecting it to the network increases the risk of overload - except for families that have electricians, no one will even think about whether it will “pull” whether one point two powerful electrical appliances.

In practice, to connect such devices that stably consume high current, separate sockets are made, therefore, under normal conditions, several factors must converge for the occurrence of a long-term dangerous overload, the combination of which seems very, very unlikely.

What is the average outlet designed for?

The first point is the current strength that the socket can withstand - usually this parameter is indicated on its cover, less often on the inside. Old Soviet devices, which are now less and less common (they are being replaced almost primarily because of the need to connect modern Europlugs), for the most part, are designed for a current of 6 Amperes. Modern, even of mediocre quality, are already marked 10 (if it is without grounding) or 16 amperes.

What do these numbers mean, the school formula for calculating power will help you find out electric current- Even the humanities should understand it. P (power) \u003d I (current) * U (voltage), and given that the voltage in home network always constant and equal to 220 volts, it is quite simple to calculate what the current marking says.

• 220 Volts * 6 Amps = 1320 Watts = 1.3 kW
• 220 Volts * 10 Amps = 2200 Watts = 2.2 kW
• 220 Volts * 16 Amps = 3520 Watts = 3.5 kW

Power of household electrical appliances

You can visualize where you can safely connect a double outlet by comparing the most commonly used electrical appliances:

Considering the recommendations of the PUE: how to properly connect powerful kitchen appliances, boilers and air conditioners - a separate line is always connected to them, it is very difficult to imagine in what situation the installation of a double outlet will entail the simultaneous inclusion of two devices with a total power of more than 2.2 kW. Using an iron at the same time as a vacuum cleaner or a hairdryer is quite problematic - only a microwave oven with an electric kettle remains, but together they work for a maximum of 5-8 minutes, and the margin of safety in electrical engineering is not an empty phrase. Plus, for such electrical appliances, they usually put good 16 Amp sockets.

Installation of double and triple sockets

There is no difference between how to connect a triple socket, double or ordinary - all the steps are exactly the same. Of course, all work must be done with the electricity turned off:

• A hole is drilled in the wall, where a socket box and a strobe will be installed, along which the wire will be fed (if installation is performed from scratch).
• A gypsum or cement mortar is being prepared - a little, so that it is enough to fix the socket box in the wall.
• A socket box is installed flush with the wall (the wires are brought inside it, and before that, their ends must be wrapped with electrical tape so that the gypsum mortar does not get on the cores). Then you need to wait the set time for the solution to completely harden - depending on the composition, this can take from 15 minutes to a day.
• Next, the electrical tape is removed from the ends of the wires, if necessary, the required amount of insulation, the cores are inserted into the contact mounts and tightened. Contrary to some opinions, there is no difference how to connect a triple socket (the same applies to double and single) - the phase wire can be clamped both on the right contact and on the left. The main thing is that there is good contact between the core and the terminal, to increase its area, the core can be slightly flattened with pliers.
• Then the inner part is installed in the socket - you don’t have to expose anything here, since it has a limiter with which it is pressed against the wall. When the socket is completely aligned, the spacer legs are tightened, and the limiter is screwed to the socket.
• The last step is to secure the cover - it is bolted to the inside.

At what step you need to turn on the electricity depends solely on the degree of curiosity - the connection is made correctly or not. You can check the voltage immediately after connecting the wires, after installing the inner part in the socket, or after the installation is completely completed.

The process of installing a double socket is shown in this video:

Double and triple sockets, recruited from ordinary

The meaning of such a connection is that the phase and neutral wires are suitable from the junction box to one of the sockets, and the third is connected from its terminals with the next wire, and so on. In fact, these are not double, but twin (triple) sockets that are connected to a separate unit, which is still powered from one wire.

A row of sockets connected in this way is easy to repair - if any part of it fails, then only the broken part will have to be changed.

The wire connecting the socket blocks is selected with the same cross section as the one that comes to the first of them. If there is no such thing, then without any problems you can take wires with a larger cross-section core, but in no case vice versa - with a load greater than gentle, the wire connected to such contacts will soon begin to heat up and oxidize. Socket blocks are generally installed in places where the use of a large number of powerful devices is not expected, although if the supply and connecting wires of sufficient cross section and the socket contacts are well clamped, then they will freely withstand the operation of the heater in tandem with several more devices.

There is one more nuance when installing socket boxes - they can be installed one at a time, or you can find a whole block that is immediately inserted into the holes drilled in the wall. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as with a conventional outlet.

A detailed story about connecting the socket block in this video:

What is better to choose

As a result, the use of double and triple sockets is an excellent alternative to the need to connect ordinary carriers, tees and other devices that allow several devices to work from one point at once.

The only rule that you need to remember, without bothering to calculate kilowatts, is not to include several powerful devices, such as heaters, in one outlet or a group of them. In domestic conditions, it is very difficult to imagine a situation when this may be needed, but if such a need arose, then it is better to choose sockets on different, and preferably opposite, walls.

Not everything and not always goes according to plan. sometimes there are miscalculations of one's own, and sometimes one has to refine the miscalculations of others. This we mean that if there are not enough outlets in the house, then it is useless to look for the guilty. There are only two ways out - to pull extension cords or to embed new sockets in those places where their location is most convenient. If repairs are not planned, then the second option is unlikely to please the owners, but if you install a triple instead of a single outlet, this can somewhat improve the situation.

Why Install Triple Sockets

But indeed, it is much more convenient to install three outlets instead of one than to use unreliable tees and doubles. it's not just uncomfortable. This can lead to sad consequences. We do not want to scare anyone, but the extra tees are:

Therefore, installing a triple outlet will be an option in many situations.

Types of triple sockets, sockets with a switch

Separate attention deserves sockets with a switch. Built-in designs for three consumers are extremely rare, but the switch on the outlet can de-energize part of the circuit when it is certain that it will not be used for a long time, thereby eliminating the appearance short circuits or other troubles during the absence of the owners.

You also need to remember that socket designs, in principle, can be of two types:

All this fully applies to triple sockets with internal fastening. You can also go the other way - buy three separate sockets, and hide them with a triple frame for sockets.

It all depends on design features walls. If the wall is drywall, then drilling two more holes with a special crown will not be problematic. But if the wall in the house is concrete or brick, then this entails expenses both in time and in work, almost identical to minor repairs. On which option to stop, it's up to the master to decide.

We are still interested in a simpler and more economical option - installing a block of three sockets in one mounting hole. Frankly, this is not the wisest way to increase the number of consumers per wire, and there are arguments for this opinion, but for now, consider the positive aspects of such an installation:

However, there are serious restrictions on the use of such outlets. Firstly, very often they catch on stinginess, palming off the poor quality of contacts. Before buying, you need to make sure that all contacts are certainly brass. Then you should pay attention to the quality of the plastic cover and the material of the case. Ideally, the core should be ceramic and the cover material should be flame retardant plastic.

How to connect a triple outlet

When choosing an installation method, you need to build on the cross section of the wire that is laid in the wall. If we decide not to ditch the wall and not drill additional places for a multi-seat internal socket, then in any case, it is worth making sure that the wire can withstand three potential consumers. If this is not done, the wiring may burn, then in any case, you will have to ditch the wall in order to replace the wire in the damaged area.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to install three sockets in different sockets, then they must be connected in accordance with the diagram above. In this case, it may be necessary to lay additional sections of the cable, and here it must be taken into account that they are laid exclusively horizontally or vertically. Diagonal padding is not allowed.

If you provide for all the nuances associated with the load and wire cross-section, as well as buy a high-quality triple internal socket, it will serve faithfully up to next repair. Successful work!