Reading almost any material in the horticultural literature about the agricultural technology of tomatoes, you come across the same advice: the need for mandatory picking of seedlings with pinching the root during the seedling period. This rule is so deeply rooted that it is considered almost an axiom.
But is it really that simple?
What happens to the root?
The authors explain this by the fact that this procedure stimulates the growth of the root system, which develops more powerful. I followed these recommendations for many years without thinking deeply. But once I tried to do without a pick and realized that everything was just the opposite.
Analyzing this fact, I realized the following. In fact, picking in no way makes the tomato root system larger. She only changes it from the core (with deep roots) to the surface. This happens due to the breakage of the central root during this operation. In large farms with a huge amount of planting material and drip irrigation, this is very convenient and necessary.
Is it necessary to do the same for ordinary summer residents and gardeners, many of whom have the opportunity to visit their pets only once a week?
The numbers are convincing
They, of course, are more comfortable with the growing option, where plants in the seedling period simply roll over into large containers. At proper fit such tomatoes can grow in general the whole season without watering or with a minimum of it, since their tap root system, having gone deep to a great depth, will from there, like a pump, get the necessary moisture.
In addition, roots not injured by picking are less susceptible to various root rots.
I'm used to checking my subjective impressions with numbers. To do this, last season I took 20 varieties of tomatoes, two of each, and, growing seedlings, dived one plant, and the second - rolled over without disturbing the root system. In the future, he took into account the yield and ripening time.
On average, per season, the yield of tomatoes grown without picking turned out to be 630 g higher. Such plants entered fruiting earlier by 11 days.
Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"
When growing tomatoes, in order for the seedlings to be strong and well developed, it is mandatory to carry out a timely picking of seedlings. The very attitude and technique of performing this procedure differ among gardeners, so it is necessary to figure out what the picking of tomato seedlings is, when and how to carry it out correctly.
The classic definition of a pick (dive)- this is the removal of the final part of the taproot from a young seedling (in other words, shortening it by 1/3 or 1/4) in order to stimulate the branching of the root system ( for tomatoes - this is an absolute boon unlike cabbage, the same eggplants and peppers, for which picking is recommended, but traumatic).
But in general, usually under a pick refers to the planting (transplantation) of grown seedlings from a common planting capacity into separate (individual) and large in volume.
Note! For tomato seedlings, picking is vital, since the stronger the root system of young seedlings is, the greater the load of fruits it can withstand.
There are several main advantages of picking tomato seedlings, which leave no doubt about the need for it:
Generally, the essence of the pick in order for the plant to develop better, or rather, its root system grows, gradually mastering ever larger volumes of soil.
- When transplanting, you can natural selection the strongest and most promising specimens, while rejecting weak plants.
- Prevents intertwining of roots in seedlings growing in a common container.
- Due to the deepening of the seedlings to the cotyledons, the active formation of adventitious (lateral) roots begins.
Thus, the further growth and development of tomato seedlings depends on the correctness of this procedure.
Video: why, when and how to dive tomato seedlings
Is it possible to do without picking tomato seedlings
Some gardeners prefer to grow tomato seedlings without picking. To do this, at the initial stage of sowing, it is necessary to plant seeds in several pieces (2-3) in separate sufficiently voluminous containers. And after the seedlings grow up a little, leave the strongest and most promising seedling, and remove the rest. As the plants grow, you will need to gradually add soil to stimulate the development of the root system.
By the way! About, how to grow tomato seedlings without picking, read more in this article.
Important! If you are going to grow tomato seedlings without picking, then it is recommended to select a container so that in the end it allows growing seedlings to grow the root system, i.e. not less than 0.5 liters.
When to pick tomato seedlings
The picking of tomato seedlings, like almost all other plants (for example, the same or), should be carried out when the plants form a pair (2 each) of true leaves.
By the way! In principle, picking can be done when the seedlings only the 2nd true leaf will begin to form (appear).
Important! It’s not worth rushing, as well as delaying, with picking tomatoes: if in the first case the plant is still too weak (in the cotyledon phase), then in the second, it will simply start to run out of space and nutrition (including light), which means seedlings will stretch and wither.
As for the approximate timing of picking tomatoes, as a rule, it takes about 3-4 weeks from the moment the seeds are sown for the seedlings to grow the necessary 2 true leaves.
Advice! It is not worth focusing on the age of seedlings when choosing a picking time. The main thing is to focus on the appearance, namely on the number of real (not cotyledon) leaves.
Video: when to dive tomato seedlings
Note! If you were originally sowed tomatoes in cassettes with a volume of 0.2-0.3 liters, then picking seedlings by transshipment (more on this later) can be produced later, when she already has 3-4 true leaves. But you should not pull too hard, the sprouts will simply begin to close (shade) each other.
How to prepare tomato seedlings for picking or transplanting by transshipment
To reduce plant stress due to picking, a day before or after (some even recommend doing this even earlier - 2-6 hours before or after the procedure), you can spray tomato seedlings with a solution of drugs "Epin" or "Zircon" (according to instructions).
Also desirable 2 hours before pickup water the seedlings under the root, which will help to avoid damage to the root system in the process of extracting the seedlings from the total container and preserving part of the earthy coma. However, if you are just transshipping, then, on the contrary, you need to stop watering 1-2 days before transplanting.
Alternative opinion! In order for the seedlings to remain elastic and not break during picking, on the contrary, it is advisable to slightly dry the soil before the procedure.
- For picking, it is convenient to use a wooden stick, a teaspoon or a plastic fork, which helps to carefully remove the seedlings from the ground.
- You should not hold the seedling by the stem (so you can break it), you need to hold it by the cotyledon leaves.
- Tomato seedlings are best buried to the lower (cotyledonous) leaves, which makes it possible to grow additional lateral roots.
- The soil must be disinfected to exclude the development of fungal diseases (more on this later).
- It is not recommended to select too large containers, 0.5 liter cups or pots will be enough (read below).
Soil preparation
The soil for picking tomatoes is exactly the same as when sowing seeds for seedlings, in other words, it should be loose, light and neutral in acidity (pH 6.5). Is that now it can be made a little more nutritious.
And of course, be sure to disinfect.
Advice! Soil can be effectively disinfected using calcination (steaming) in the oven or microwave, or by spilling a solution of the drug (according to the instructions). Better yet, do both (first ignite, then cool, and then spill).
The easiest way to use ready special primer for growing seedlings of tomatoes, which is also suitable for peppers and eggplants.
Of course, you can always prepare the soil mixture yourself. Here are some proven recipes:
- sod land, high-moor peat, humus or compost, sphagnum moss or coarse-grained river sand in a ratio of 1:1:2:1;
- peat, compost, sawdust or sand in a ratio of 3:5:1;
- sod land, humus or compost, sand in a ratio of 2:3:1;
- sod land, leaf land, humus or compost in equal proportions (1:1:1);
Advice! Do not forget to add 1 cup (100 grams) per 1 bucket of soil mixture to all soil mixtures.
Suitable container for picking
For picking tomato seedlings into separate containers, the same plastic cups with a volume of about 0.5 liters are suitable, you can use 0.7, but not more than 1 liter (this is pointless and even harmful, the land undeveloped by the roots will simply turn sour).
In what container is convenient for you, dive into such. Let it be circumcised plastic bottles, milk cartons, kefir, sour cream and mayonnaise jars. The main thing is that the container should be at least 500 ml in volume and at least 8-10 cm high.
A lot of people dive in homemade polyethylene cups (similar to diapers), from which it is very convenient to get seedlings or.
Note! If you take a container of a smaller volume (0.2-0.3 liters), then after a while you will need to carry out another pick again, more precisely, already a transplant by transshipment.
Also, the landing container must have drainage holes, or You can lay out a drainage layer from expanded clay or pebbles (1-2 cm).
Methods for picking seedlings of tomatoes
The picking of tomato seedlings can be carried out in two ways: the classic picking and the transshipment method.
The choice of method depends on how you originally sown the seeds (in a common container or in individual cups).
Classic pick
Executed when you initially sown the seeds in a common container. Although, if you really want to trim the tap root to stimulate the formation of lateral roots, then it is also used when transplanting from small individual containers.
Step-by-step instruction picking tomato seedlings from a common container into separate cups:
- The prepared containers are not completely filled with soil (about 3/4 or 2/3 of their volume, so that it is possible to water the plant normally and add soil as it grows).
- In the center of the container, a small indentation is made with a finger or a spoon (stick) according to the size of the root system of the seedling.
- Spilled with water so that the soil becomes only slightly wet.
- The seedling is carefully removed from the container by prying it from below with a stick (a teaspoon, more precisely, with its end). Then the plant is taken out of the soil (at the same time, you cannot hold it by the stem, only by the cotyledons).
By the way! Some gardeners advise, if possible, to save part of the earth on the roots of seedlings when picking. At least a small layer.
- Now the seedling needs to shorten (cut) its main tap root by 1/3 (1/4), pinching its tip by 0.3-0.5 cm.
- Optionally, to enrich the root system with beneficial bacteria, you can dip the roots in a solution (against fungal diseases) and / or Azotovita or "Azophyta"(both drugs are analogues that provide nitrogen nutrition), " Phosphatovite"(phosphorus nutrition). Prepare solutions according to package instructions.
Note! Solutions can be mixed, drugs do not suppress each other.
You can also add a drop to the resulting solution "Epin" (or "Zircon") or 1 tsp yeast(culinary, beer) - so it will be even more effective.
- They put the seedling in the hole, deepening almost to the cotyledon leaves.
It is important that if the seedling is stretched out, then it must also be deepened almost to the cotyledons.
- Gently compact the soil at the base of the seedling.
- Then shed with warm water so that the roots of the plant come into good contact with the soil.
If desired, watering can be done using a solution and Azofit (Azotovit).
- To prevent a dry crust from forming after watering, you can additionally lightly sprinkle dry soil on top.
By the way! For the prevention of other fungal diseases in each container, you can put a tablet of "Gliocladin".
- At the end, the pickled seedlings are placed in a place inaccessible to direct sunlight, somewhere for a day or two. In other words, it is better to remove the containers with seedlings from the window and put them on the table or somehow shade them right on the windowsill. At the same time, shading does not mean putting in a deep shadow or even in a dark place. Light should be, but diffused.
The following videos show the process of classical picking shown with the use of drugs and Azofit.
Video: picking tomatoes, peppers, eggplants - simple rules
Video: how to properly dive tomato seedlings into glasses
Transshipment (transplantation with a clod of earth)
Performed only if you Initially, the seeds were sown in individual containers (cups or cassettes).
Step-by-step instructions for transshipment (transplantation with an earthen clod) of tomato seedlings:
Note! Most of the actions are carried out similarly to the pick, with the exception of the following:
- For a successful transshipment, it is necessary to stop watering the plants 1-2 days before transplanting, so you can easily get the seedling along with the earthen clod without damaging it (it will not fall apart).
- Pour some soil into the container. Leave a place with the expectation that you will put a seedling with an earthen clod there.
- Carefully remove the seedling from the container along with a clod of earth.
- Place the seedling in the center of the container and fill the voids formed on the side with the prepared substrate.
Advantage! With this method, the roots are not damaged, and they do not require an adaptation period. Therefore, in the case of transshipment, transplanted seedlings can not be placed at all in a shaded place, or they can be placed for only 12-24 hours.
Video: picking tomatoes by transshipment from cassettes
Caring for tomato seedlings after picking
Slowdown in seedling growth after picking is normal, as the plants must survive the stress and recover - take root in a new place.
- support temperature regime . The temperature of the content should be as follows: during the day - + 22 .. + 26 degrees, and at night it drops to + 14-18 degrees. Temperature differences contribute to the hardening of plants, in other words, they favorably affect the development of seedlings.
- Light mode. For the full growth and development of tomato seedlings, 11-12 hour daylight hours are required. The most suitable place for placing seedlings will be the southern windowsill. An east or west window sill is also suitable, but it's better if it is a southeast or southwest window.
Advice! Periodically, containers with seedlings should be turned with the other side to the window so that the plants do not lean to one side.
- In a timely manner watering you, as the top layer of the earth dries up. At the same time, it is necessary to water abundantly so that the entire earthen lump has time to soak (the excess good should come out of the pot from the drainage holes). Water should be warm or at least room temperature, pre-settled or filtered.
- If there is a need, then start feed(More on this later).
Video: tomato seedlings - from picking to planting in the ground
top dressing
If you properly prepare the soil, then seedlings of tomatoes can not be fed at all, especially before picking. But if initially used poor soil, then fertilizers are indispensable. Especially if appearance seedlings clearly hints that the plant lacks some macro- or micronutrients. In this case top dressing is simply necessary.
By the way! More about feeding tomato seedlings read .
For example, if you see that the stems and lower part of the leaves of the tomato turned purple, then they need phosphorus. Top dressing can be done with (dilute according to the instructions).
If started cotyledon leaves turn yellow and fall off, then most likely plants lack nitrogen. If so, then the seedlings should be fed with any, for example, urea or ammonium nitrate.
Advice! To feed tomato seedlings, it is best to use complex mineral fertilizers containing equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (such as nitroammophoska). And it is desirable to prepare 2-3 times less concentrated solutions than recommended by the manufacturer.
Or you can prepare such a universal solution of mineral fertilizers (per 10 liters of water):
- - 10-15 grams;
- potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) - 20-25 grams;
- - 30-40 grams (an overdose of phosphorus cannot be, so it makes no sense to make a less concentrated solution).
Advice! If you supporter of organic farming, then you can use herbal infusion(for example, nettle), bird droppings or mullein(All solutions should be prepared according to the enclosed instructions). Potassium and contained in (1-2 tablespoons or 10-20 grams per 1 liter of water).
As for the frequency of feeding tomato seedlings, as a rule, it is recommended to do this once every 10-14 days (the first time - 10-14 days after picking), although experienced gardeners advise feeding with each watering, but in a lower concentration ( 3-4 times).
Video: when and how to feed tomato seedlings
Retransplantation (transshipment)
After 3-4 weeks after the first pick, if necessary, you can carry out second pick tomatoes.
It is already carried out purely by the method of transshipment and does not require shortening of the main root.
Re-picking can be done if:
By the way! Often a double pick is used when growing tall (indeterminate) tomato varieties.
- you deliberately carried out a pick in small containers;
- seedlings have outgrown the containers, but weather conditions do not allow planting seedlings in the ground.
Video: second pick tall tomatoes
Thus, picking tomatoes is an important step in growing seedlings, which gives an additional impetus to the development of plants. Follow this procedure in accordance with all the rules and recommendations, and your seedlings will become strong and healthy.
Video: picking tomatoes - how to plant tomatoes
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When growing tomatoes, in order for the seedlings to be strong and well developed, it is mandatory to carry out a timely picking of seedlings. The very attitude and technique of performing this procedure differ among gardeners, so it is necessary to figure out what the picking of tomato seedlings is, when and how to carry it out correctly.
The classic definition of a pick (dive)- this is the removal of the final part of the taproot from a young seedling (in other words, shortening it by 1/3 or 1/4) in order to stimulate the branching of the root system ( for tomatoes - this is an absolute boon unlike cabbage, the same eggplants and peppers, for which picking is recommended, but traumatic).
But in general, usually under a pick refers to the planting (transplantation) of grown seedlings from a common planting capacity into separate (individual) and large in volume.
Note! For tomato seedlings, picking is vital, since the stronger the root system of young seedlings is, the greater the load of fruits it can withstand.
There are several main advantages of picking tomato seedlings, which leave no doubt about the need for it:
Generally, the essence of the pick in order for the plant to develop better, or rather, its root system grows, gradually mastering ever larger volumes of soil.
- When transplanting, it is possible to carry out a natural selection of the strongest and most promising specimens, while rejecting weak plants.
- Prevents intertwining of roots in seedlings growing in a common container.
- Due to the deepening of the seedlings to the cotyledons, the active formation of adventitious (lateral) roots begins.
Thus, the further growth and development of tomato seedlings depends on the correctness of this procedure.
Video: why, when and how to dive tomato seedlings
Is it possible to do without picking tomato seedlings
Some gardeners prefer to grow tomato seedlings without picking. To do this, at the initial stage of sowing, it is necessary to plant seeds in several pieces (2-3) in separate sufficiently voluminous containers. And after the seedlings grow up a little, leave the strongest and most promising seedling, and remove the rest. As the plants grow, you will need to gradually add soil to stimulate the development of the root system.
By the way! About, how to grow tomato seedlings without picking, read more in this article.
Important! If you are going to grow tomato seedlings without picking, then it is recommended to select a container so that in the end it allows growing seedlings to grow the root system, i.e. not less than 0.5 liters.
When to pick tomato seedlings
The picking of tomato seedlings, like almost all other plants (for example, the same or), should be carried out when the plants form a pair (2 each) of true leaves.
By the way! In principle, picking can be done when the seedlings only the 2nd true leaf will begin to form (appear).
Important! It’s not worth rushing, as well as delaying, with picking tomatoes: if in the first case the plant is still too weak (in the cotyledon phase), then in the second, it will simply start to run out of space and nutrition (including light), which means seedlings will stretch and wither.
As for the approximate timing of picking tomatoes, as a rule, it takes about 3-4 weeks from the moment the seeds are sown for the seedlings to grow the necessary 2 true leaves.
Advice! It is not worth focusing on the age of seedlings when choosing a picking time. The main thing is to focus on the appearance, namely on the number of real (not cotyledon) leaves.
Video: when to dive tomato seedlings
Note! If you were originally sowed tomatoes in cassettes with a volume of 0.2-0.3 liters, then picking seedlings by transshipment (more on this later) can be produced later, when she already has 3-4 true leaves. But you should not pull too hard, the sprouts will simply begin to close (shade) each other.
How to prepare tomato seedlings for picking or transplanting by transshipment
To reduce plant stress due to picking, a day before or after (some even recommend doing this even earlier - 2-6 hours before or after the procedure), you can spray tomato seedlings with a solution of drugs "Epin" or "Zircon" (according to instructions).
Also desirable 2 hours before pickup water the seedlings under the root, which will help to avoid damage to the root system in the process of extracting the seedlings from the total container and preserving part of the earthy coma. However, if you are just transshipping, then, on the contrary, you need to stop watering 1-2 days before transplanting.
Alternative opinion! In order for the seedlings to remain elastic and not break during picking, on the contrary, it is advisable to slightly dry the soil before the procedure.
- For picking, it is convenient to use a wooden stick, a teaspoon or a plastic fork, which helps to carefully remove the seedlings from the ground.
- You should not hold the seedling by the stem (so you can break it), you need to hold it by the cotyledon leaves.
- Tomato seedlings are best buried to the lower (cotyledonous) leaves, which makes it possible to grow additional lateral roots.
- The soil must be disinfected to exclude the development of fungal diseases (more on this later).
- It is not recommended to select too large containers, 0.5 liter cups or pots will be enough (read below).
Soil preparation
The soil for picking tomatoes is exactly the same as when sowing seeds for seedlings, in other words, it should be loose, light and neutral in acidity (pH 6.5). Is that now it can be made a little more nutritious.
And of course, be sure to disinfect.
Advice! Soil can be effectively disinfected using calcination (steaming) in the oven or microwave, or by spilling a solution of the drug (according to the instructions). Better yet, do both (first ignite, then cool, and then spill).
The easiest way to use ready special primer for growing seedlings of tomatoes, which is also suitable for peppers and eggplants.
Of course, you can always prepare the soil mixture yourself. Here are some proven recipes:
- sod land, high-moor peat, humus or compost, sphagnum moss or coarse-grained river sand in a ratio of 1:1:2:1;
- peat, compost, sawdust or sand in a ratio of 3:5:1;
- sod land, humus or compost, sand in a ratio of 2:3:1;
- sod land, leaf land, humus or compost in equal proportions (1:1:1);
Advice! Do not forget to add 1 cup (100 grams) per 1 bucket of soil mixture to all soil mixtures.
Suitable container for picking
For picking tomato seedlings into separate containers, the same plastic cups with a volume of about 0.5 liters are suitable, you can use 0.7, but not more than 1 liter (this is pointless and even harmful, the land undeveloped by the roots will simply turn sour).
In what container is convenient for you, dive into such. Let it be cut plastic bottles, milk cartons, kefir, sour cream and mayonnaise jars. The main thing is that the container should be at least 500 ml in volume and at least 8-10 cm high.
A lot of people dive in homemade polyethylene cups (similar to diapers), from which it is very convenient to get seedlings or.
Note! If you take a container of a smaller volume (0.2-0.3 liters), then after a while you will need to carry out another pick again, more precisely, already a transplant by transshipment.
Also, the landing container must have drainage holes, or You can lay out a drainage layer from expanded clay or pebbles (1-2 cm).
Methods for picking seedlings of tomatoes
The picking of tomato seedlings can be carried out in two ways: the classic picking and the transshipment method.
The choice of method depends on how you originally sown the seeds (in a common container or in individual cups).
Classic pick
Executed when you initially sown the seeds in a common container. Although, if you really want to trim the tap root to stimulate the formation of lateral roots, then it is also used when transplanting from small individual containers.
Step-by-step instructions for picking tomato seedlings from a common container into separate cups:
- The prepared containers are not completely filled with soil (about 3/4 or 2/3 of their volume, so that it is possible to water the plant normally and add soil as it grows).
- In the center of the container, a small indentation is made with a finger or a spoon (stick) according to the size of the root system of the seedling.
- Spilled with water so that the soil becomes only slightly wet.
- The seedling is carefully removed from the container by prying it from below with a stick (a teaspoon, more precisely, with its end). Then the plant is taken out of the soil (at the same time, you cannot hold it by the stem, only by the cotyledons).
By the way! Some gardeners advise, if possible, to save part of the earth on the roots of seedlings when picking. At least a small layer.
- Now the seedling needs to shorten (cut) its main tap root by 1/3 (1/4), pinching its tip by 0.3-0.5 cm.
- Optionally, to enrich the root system with beneficial bacteria, you can dip the roots in a solution (against fungal diseases) and / or Azotovita or "Azophyta"(both drugs are analogues that provide nitrogen nutrition), " Phosphatovite"(phosphorus nutrition). Prepare solutions according to package instructions.
Note! Solutions can be mixed, drugs do not suppress each other.
You can also add a drop to the resulting solution "Epin" (or "Zircon") or 1 tsp yeast(culinary, beer) - so it will be even more effective.
- They put the seedling in the hole, deepening almost to the cotyledon leaves.
It is important that if the seedling is stretched out, then it must also be deepened almost to the cotyledons.
- Gently compact the soil at the base of the seedling.
- Then shed with warm water so that the roots of the plant come into good contact with the soil.
If desired, watering can be done using a solution and Azofit (Azotovit).
- To prevent a dry crust from forming after watering, you can additionally lightly sprinkle dry soil on top.
By the way! For the prevention of other fungal diseases in each container, you can put a tablet of "Gliocladin".
- At the end, the pickled seedlings are placed in a place inaccessible to direct sunlight, somewhere for a day or two. In other words, it is better to remove the containers with seedlings from the window and put them on the table or somehow shade them right on the windowsill. At the same time, shading does not mean putting in a deep shadow or even in a dark place. Light should be, but diffused.
The following videos show the process of classical picking shown with the use of drugs and Azofit.
Video: picking tomatoes, peppers, eggplants - simple rules
Video: how to properly dive tomato seedlings into glasses
Transshipment (transplantation with a clod of earth)
Performed only if you Initially, the seeds were sown in individual containers (cups or cassettes).
Step-by-step instructions for transshipment (transplantation with an earthen clod) of tomato seedlings:
Note! Most of the actions are carried out similarly to the pick, with the exception of the following:
- For a successful transshipment, it is necessary to stop watering the plants 1-2 days before transplanting, so you can easily get the seedling along with the earthen clod without damaging it (it will not fall apart).
- Pour some soil into the container. Leave a place with the expectation that you will put a seedling with an earthen clod there.
- Carefully remove the seedling from the container along with a clod of earth.
- Place the seedling in the center of the container and fill the voids formed on the side with the prepared substrate.
Advantage! With this method, the roots are not damaged, and they do not require an adaptation period. Therefore, in the case of transshipment, transplanted seedlings can not be placed at all in a shaded place, or they can be placed for only 12-24 hours.
Video: picking tomatoes by transshipment from cassettes
Caring for tomato seedlings after picking
Slowdown in seedling growth after picking is normal, as the plants must survive the stress and recover - take root in a new place.
- support temperature regime. The temperature of the content should be as follows: during the day - + 22 .. + 26 degrees, and at night it drops to + 14-18 degrees. Temperature differences contribute to the hardening of plants, in other words, they favorably affect the development of seedlings.
- Light mode. For the full growth and development of tomato seedlings, 11-12 hour daylight hours are required. The most suitable place for placing seedlings will be the southern windowsill. An east or west window sill is also suitable, but it's better if it is a southeast or southwest window.
Advice! Periodically, containers with seedlings should be turned with the other side to the window so that the plants do not lean to one side.
- In a timely manner watering you, as the top layer of the earth dries up. At the same time, it is necessary to water abundantly so that the entire earthen lump has time to soak (the excess good should come out of the pot from the drainage holes). Water should be warm or at least room temperature, pre-settled or filtered.
- If there is a need, then start feed(More on this later).
Video: tomato seedlings - from picking to planting in the ground
top dressing
If you properly prepare the soil, then seedlings of tomatoes can not be fed at all, especially before picking. But if initially used poor soil, then fertilizers are indispensable. Especially if the appearance of the seedlings clearly hints that the plant lacks some macro- or micronutrients. In this case top dressing is simply necessary.
By the way! More about feeding tomato seedlings read .
For example, if you see that the stems and lower part of the leaves of the tomato turned purple, then they need phosphorus. Top dressing can be done with (dilute according to the instructions).
If started cotyledon leaves turn yellow and fall off, then most likely plants lack nitrogen. If so, then the seedlings should be fed with any, for example, urea or ammonium nitrate.
Advice! To feed tomato seedlings, it is best to use complex mineral fertilizers containing equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (such as nitroammophoska). And it is desirable to prepare 2-3 times less concentrated solutions than recommended by the manufacturer.
Or you can prepare such a universal solution of mineral fertilizers (per 10 liters of water):
- - 10-15 grams;
- you deliberately carried out a pick in small containers;
- seedlings have outgrown the containers, but weather conditions do not allow planting seedlings in the ground.
- About two hours before the start of the pick, seedlings in containers must be watered. So clods of earth with roots will be better separated from the main mass. It is advisable not to touch the stem itself and the leaves, as the temperature of human fingers is much higher than the temperature of the seedlings. If you take the stem with your hands, then the plant may experience stress from such a high temperature. If necessary, it is better to use rag gloves.
- Next, we prepare small pots and planting soil (a mixture of soddy soil, peat and sand), the temperature of which should be kept at 20 degrees. To avoid damage to seedlings, we water the soil in pots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Carefully remove the seedlings from the ground with a small wooden spatula, toothpick or any other medium-sized object.
- In a pot of soil, make a small hole about 5 cm deep with your finger.
- Pour water into the hole.
- Slowly we plant a seedling in a hole. Cotyledon leaves should be above the ground.
- After planting, we compact the ground with a finger.
- We place the seedlings in a shady place.
- We water once or twice a week.
As for the frequency of feeding tomato seedlings, as a rule, it is recommended to do this once every 10-14 days (the first time - 10-14 days after picking), although experienced gardeners advise feeding with each watering, but in a lower concentration ( 3-4 times).
Video: when and how to feed tomato seedlings
Retransplantation (transshipment)
After 3-4 weeks after the first pick, if necessary, you can carry out second pick tomatoes.
It is already carried out purely by the method of transshipment and does not require shortening of the main root.
Re-picking can be done if:
By the way! Often a double pick is used when growing tall (indeterminate) tomato varieties.
Video: second pick of tall tomatoes
Thus, picking tomatoes is an important step in growing seedlings, which gives an additional impetus to the development of plants. Follow this procedure in accordance with all the rules and recommendations, and your seedlings will become strong and healthy.
Video: picking tomatoes - how to plant tomatoes
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Growing on your personal plot tomatoes, you may be faced with the question of whether they need to dive.
Why dive tomatoes?
Proper picking of a tomato helps to determine the strongest and most promising seedlings in order to later transplant them for growing in more comfortable conditions. Weak and diseased seedlings are discarded.
How to properly dive tomatoes?
Tomato seedlings can be dived when the first two leaves appear on the seedlings. An earlier or, conversely, late (when 3-4 leaves appeared) picking of tomato seedlings can cause the tomatoes to take root poorly and be prone to frequent diseases.
The procedure for diving tomatoes is as follows:
As soon as the seedlings have taken root, the seedlings must be rearranged in a sunny place. It is also important to periodically ventilate the room in order to harden the tomatoes. Optimum temperature environment- 15-18 degrees.
Feeding tomatoes after picking
After you decide to pick a tomato, you need to apply fertilizer. They will help strengthen the root system and will contribute to more active growth of tomatoes.
Do top dressing twice:
You can use any mineral complex fertilizer containing superphosphate, urea and potassium sulfate.
After fertilizing, be sure to water the seedlings to wash off the remaining fertilizer. After watering, light loosening of the soil is carried out. As a result of a properly carried out pick, you will get tomato seedlings with a powerful root system, which means that later you will have beautiful and large tomatoes with excellent taste.
womanadvice.ru
Picking tomato seedlings without errors
After two “real” leaves appear on the tomato seedlings, it is recommended to pick it. Picking tomato seedlings allows you to weed out weak and diseased seedlings, plants with an undeveloped root system, and give healthy and strong tomatoes the opportunity to develop in more comfortable conditions.
So, picking is carried out approximately on the tenth day after germination. Watering before picking is recommended to be done one or two days in advance, because if you water immediately before picking tomato seedlings, the earth will be saturated with water, become heavy, and lifting the seedling by the stem, you risk damaging the root system. And if you water it in a few days, then the earth will be too dry and crumble, revealing tender roots. You can extract seedlings from a common earthen clod with a teaspoon, while it is recommended to take the plant behind the root clod of earth so as not to damage the stem. A recess is made in the pot and the plant is carefully transferred there with immersion to the cotyledon leaves. The earth around the transplanted tomato is compacted and watered with water at room temperature. Such picking of tomato seedlings practically does not harm plants and does not slow down their growth.
OgorodSadovod.com
We grow tomato seedlings without picking
We grow tomato seedlings without picking
Consider seedling methods for the North-West region. What varieties of tomatoes are we talking about? There are now a lot of bags with seeds of domestic and imported varieties and hybrids on the shelves of seed stores. Super-early and late, super-determinant and indeterminate - experiment to your heart's content. But for beginner gardeners, according to their many years of experience in growing tomatoes, I would like to give advice: plant varieties and hybrids bred here near St. Petersburg, adapted to our climate, resistant to common tomato diseases and pests. And you will always be with the harvest. The best varieties for our region - Ladoga, Fontanka, Baltic, Nevsky, Moechka, Admiralteysky.
This also includes varieties without reference to our region: indoor small-fruited varieties, medium and large-fruited, short and tall, for open ground and greenhouses. And they are related by the fact that they were bred by an outstanding breeder, a tireless propagandist of optimal gardening methods near St. Petersburg, Professor Sh. G. Bekseev. His varieties of tomatoes fell in love not only with many of our compatriots, but also found ardent admirers in neighboring countries, especially in Finland.
When to sow? It's April already. Spring month. Our summer is short - July - August, and that's it. The best time for sowing is 60 days before planting seedlings in the ground. We do not plant seedlings of tomatoes before the first decade of June (early spring frosts interfere). Therefore, it is necessary to sow tomato seeds no earlier than April 1. I have a negative attitude towards picking tomatoes. And not only tomatoes, but also other heat-loving crops that we grow here (peppers, eggplants, etc.). No matter how carefully, or rather, carefully, we did not carry out this operation, but we still damage the nutritious small roots, or “drown out”, and this, of course, hinders the growth and development of the plant. It, so to speak, must still “recover”, recover from damage, put in additional new suction roots. And it turns out that in plants grown without picking, fruit ripening begins 12 days earlier, and our short summer was mentioned above. With a short summer - this is a considerable period. If, however, to be absolutely precise, then we can mention that when picking and thinning, we do not pull out or remove the neighboring seedling from the ground, but cut it off with a razor at ground level.
It is advisable to apply the methods of growing tomato seedlings (and we are talking about them now) without picking. Why no pick? Actually, picking is a good thing. Her technique is well known, worked out by gardeners, but here, as in any garden business, there are always positive aspects and disadvantages of the agronomic technique itself. When picking tomatoes, and other plants, roots should be protected, and not every gardener succeeds in this.
What is plant picking? This is the planting of young plants, sown densely, at greater distances from one another. The use of picking is especially effective for early tomatoes, which we cultivate before the onset of late blight. Dive plants allow planting in a permanent place at the earliest opportunity, for example, as soon as good weather conditions come and the soil is prepared.
But it will be better if we apply the seedling option without a pick. Experienced gardeners, taking into account the recommendations of scientists, develop their own, rather witty and economical ways of growing plants. V. Kovaleva proposed such an option for obtaining seedlings without picking. To the center of the long side of the rectangular piece polyethylene film(18x20x8-12 cm) 4 tbsp are placed. l. soil soil. The "diaper" is rolled up into a roll. The bottom edge is folded over. The seat is ready. The rolls are closely installed on the pallet. Seeds are sown in them, previously soaked for a day in an ash solution - an infusion (1 tablespoon of wood-herbal ash per 1 liter of a pink solution of potassium permanganate). If necessary, after a month, you can add earth - the “diaper” unfolds and a couple more spoons are added. It is amazing that with such a meager amount of soil, excellent seedlings grow. And one more plus - seedlings can not be watered for a long time even at room temperature and its accompanying dryness. And this is exactly what tomatoes need.
In conclusion, the main advantage is that all roots are preserved during planting: unfolded the “diaper”, carefully placed the seedling in the hole, fell asleep, watered - that’s the whole operation. Our family has been successfully using this method for the fourth year already. Plants tolerate it painlessly.
I. Krivega (material from the weekly newspaper ‘Gardener’)
Is it necessary to dive seedlings of tomatoes?
August
The fact is that any pick is a delay in the development of the plant for ten days. Let us add to this the non-compliance, as a rule, with fluctuations in day and night temperatures, as happens in nature. One more thing should never be forgotten - although the root system of the dived seedlings is more numerous, it is not ready for drought, while the non-dive rod goes up to one and a half to two meters deep, where there is almost always moisture. Moreover, many nutrients are washed out by rains and watering deep into, from where they easily rise with a rod, like a sow thistle root, for example.
Now for the technology itself...
For example, on May 17 I sowed tomato seeds in open ground right on the places where they should grow constantly, three seeds per hole. Seedlings appeared from 23 to 26 May. They were strong, stocky with tough, rather than watery, tender leaves.
The buds appeared on the 30th - 35th day from germination, due to natural temperature changes. Then a friendly flowering followed, and from the beginning of August a friendly harvest began.
Did I plant tomatoes? - No.
Tied up (bush form)? - No.
Watered? - No.
Processed? - yes, a couple of times with phytosporin, and during the mass summer of aphids, before that, I poisoned it once so that the viruses would not spread much.
That's all for a short time - nature against effeminacy and extra fuss.
P.S. In my environment, whose hands have been itching almost since February on boxes and the like, their tomatoes entered the budding phase on the 60th - 65th day - a month of difference against mine with unnecessary fuss.
So I do not support the centuries-old opinion about picking, sorry ...
Aleksandr LXXV
Regarding the dive of tomato seedlings, there are a lot of very different opinions.
Deciding whether to do it or not is up to the "gardener" and "gardener"))
On the one hand, it is believed that by diving it is possible to strengthen and “expand” the root system, on the other hand, any dive always delays the development and growth of the plant for several days.
There are also differences between the action of a dive on different varieties tomatoes.
If high-quality seeds, good soil and enough sun, wonderful, large, beautiful fruits grow without diving.
I think it's worth just planting your favorite variety of tomato and trying both options - with and without a dive - under otherwise similar conditions, and then decide.
Irina Agapova
A pick is a boon for the plant, but for tomatoes it is a must. Any picking will not harm the plant if it is done on time and according to the rules. Tomatoes dive when they form 1-2 true leaves located above the cotyledons. Before picking, the ground must be well watered. When digging up a plant when picking, do it carefully - at a small distance from the stem, so as not to damage the roots. And at the same time, you need to pinch the main root, cutting it off by 1/3. When planting in a separate cup, deepen the plant to the cotyledon leaves, then all that part that is in the ground will give additional roots. When picking, I immediately put a support in a cup - a stick (until there is a powerful root system), so as not to subsequently damage the roots. And at the end of the pick, be sure to water it. Until the plant takes root, I put it in a well-lit place, but not under the rays scorching through the window glass, but where the lighting is diffused.
Pensionerochka
Preferably. When you dive, the root system is disturbed, the central tap root breaks off, many other lateral roots begin to grow instead of it, and the tomato root system becomes more powerful, it better takes nutrients from the soil. And if, after picking, you plant a tomato deeper than it was, literally “up to the very ears”, then pour the earth into a glass several times, then additional roots will form, which is even better for a tomato. I tried to dive and not dive seedlings, and from my own experience I was convinced that dived plants grow more powerfully and have more fruits on them.
Eurydice
Opinions about diving tomatoes, in principle, differ among gardeners, some vote for diving, while others are against it.
The fact is that if you dive tomatoes, then this can strengthen their root system for the future. But on the other hand, this action can delay the growth of this plant.
It all depends on the variety of tomatoes being dived.
And gardeners know everything in comparison, they have experience in planting, and they can dive for something, but not for some seedlings. Much depends on the quality of the soil.
Tomatoes do not really like neighbors and it is desirable that each bush has a lot of space.
In principle, tomatoes are unpretentious plants.
angry
In Siberia, where I live, everyone who grows tomatoes must pick the plants. Plants are transplanted when 3-4 true leaves appear, located above the seven-lobed ones. Plants are transplanted into large boxes or into separate containers, I pinch the central root by about one third. I noticed that in such plants a more powerful root grows due to the more intensive formation of lateral roots. After transplanting, I remove the plants for several days in the shade, treat them with the EPIN growth stimulator. In the southern regions, it is probably possible to grow tomatoes by planting directly into the ground, without transplanting and picking, there is a warmer spring and a long summer.
Andrey0817
It is not necessary at all and even superfluous.
We sow tomatoes right into the greenhouse in rows and never dive them.
When they grow to a height of about 20 cm, we plant them immediately in the ground.
Tomatoes are not picky and take root very well, compared to peppers and eggplants, which get sick for a long time when transplanted.
As my grandmother used to say, tomatoes grow even in clay, and if the stem of the seedling breaks off when planting, then poke it into the ground and it will take root.
Bolotova Elena
A pick for a plant is too much for him to get irritated. Many plants do not like this. But not tomatoes. Tomatoes like large dishes, roots grow in it. In addition, the more the stem is sprinkled with soil, the more the root system grows, the roots grow directly from the stem.
Dive boldly. Moreover, the plant does not like neighbors, the farther the tomatoes are from each other, the better for them.
M15arina
Tomatoes must definitely dive, and the more often you do it, the less nutrients will be spent for nothing, but will be spent in favor of the harvest. When planting tomato seedlings, it is recommended to lay them on their side a little so that more lateral roots form and the root system becomes more powerful.
Roxrite
Depends on the personal preferences of the gardener (experience). In most cases, many dive tomatoes, because the harvest can really be better later. You can not dive and it happens that tomatoes grow good too. The main thing is that the seeds were of high quality.
stalonevich
Situations are different. It all depends on the variety of your tomatoes. If you see that the plant is strong, then you can also dive. If it is barely worth it, then think about whether it will survive even after such procedures.
bolshoyvopros.ru
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