Regardless of whether you connect a private house to a central or autonomous sewer, the sewage disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before starting this work, it is necessary to develop an installation scheme that allows you to get by with the minimum size of the pipeline and sewer wiring.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Particular attention should be paid to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewer depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer

Circumstances and layout of external sewage

The outer part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a waste storage tank located on the site, or with a central sewer, with a pipeline network. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. Laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a scheme developed in advance, taking into account the following circumstances:

• terrain features;
• weather;
• remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
• the total volume of effluents, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
• the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
• ways of access of the car of a vacuum truck if necessary.

In the scheme of laying the external sewage system, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into the living quarters. Read about the rules for the sewer ventilation device in the article. Ventilation is equipped with a fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on the section of the pipeline that runs from the house to the wastewater storage tank.

Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewerage

The septic tank is equipped at the lowest point of the geological relief of the site. This arrangement allows you to most optimally perform the installation of external sewage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal sewage disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, you should, first of all, make sure that the unpleasant smell does not penetrate into the living quarters. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance will be ten meters, it is also not worth placing a septic tank too far, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage connection to the house should not be carried out at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

• water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
• a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
• for the convenience of pumping out sewage, it is better to place drains near the road;
• especially careful sealing of the storage tank is needed when the groundwater is located close;
• the laying of the pipeline network facilitates the natural slope of the terrain.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

A cesspool for sewerage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste energy on sealing its walls, and when the pit was filled, it was covered with earth and a new one was dug out. Now the walls are made of bricks, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid waste fractions seep through the soil at the bottom, being filtered, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after a while they need to be pumped out.

The arrangement of a cesspool is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed the value of one cubic meter per day. If this limit is exceeded, pollution will occur. environment.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container for the accumulation of wastewater. In this case, a thorough waterproofing of the bottom and walls of the shaft is performed. Thus, the possibility of contamination of the soil and drinking sources is prevented. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up rather quickly.

Decide on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private house are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed wastewater tank. To improve the filtration of wastewater allows a single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well. A variant of the construction of three chambers with a filtration field, as well as with the use of a biofilter and an air supply system is possible.

Tire filtration septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank, in essence, is a cesspool with a drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured at the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, the liquid fractions of the waste are cleaned before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer must be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small amount of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the sump, the faeces are partially clarified, then they fall into the mine with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently cleaned.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private house, as it does not require large financial costs for his equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank of two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. Settling in the first tank, the partially clarified effluent through the overflow pipe enters the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from improvised materials in the article

Having successively passed through all sections, the effluent enters the filtration field, which is an area underground of about thirty square meters where the final soil cleaning takes place. If there is free space on the site, this method of arranging sewage is optimal.

Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a station for deep sewage treatment. Its principle of operation is similar to cleaning system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria settled at the outlet of the overflow pipe to the fourth section, which clean the drains by approximately ninety-five percent. Such water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, because if the sewage system of this design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Sewer pipe laying depth

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when deepening sewer pipes into the ground. They must be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice growths on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.

Map of normative freezing depths

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty or more centimeters, in the central regions - seventy or more centimeters. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your area in order not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the cost of doing the work will increase.

Organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house

The organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, shrinkage of the foundation is possible, therefore, drilling a hole in it for the outlet of the sewer pipe must be noticeably larger in diameter than the cross section of the pipe itself.

Variants of schemes for the withdrawal of sewerage from the house

In the event that the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the laying of the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to a common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, in which case one riser can be dispensed with.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewage in a private house

The external sewage system consists of a cleaning tank and a piping system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before performing installation work, an external sewerage scheme is applied on the site plan.

Practical options for removing sewers from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. Usually they have Orange color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic features of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most time-consuming part of the work when installing a sewer with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. The optimal distance at which the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of the storage capacity directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

It is best to connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer in a straight line, bends and turns of the pipeline system increase the likelihood of clogging. For the convenience of cleaning, a long line in places of change of direction must be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped external sewer looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so you need to maintain the correct angle of inclination. If it is too small, large fragments of waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown to the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. Information on the correct sewer slope can be found in the article.

The desired angle is maintained and controlled by the building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, which is a sand mound, pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must necessarily be below the freezing point of the soil in the region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen sewage can break the pipeline network and disable the sewer. To carry out repairs will have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly equip pipe insulation

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies in the cold season, it is better to perform thermal insulation of the sewer. Many have good thermal insulation properties. modern materials such as polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool. You can properly equip the thermal insulation of the pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a sheath made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.

Options for insulation of external sewerage

Can also be fixed over thermal insulation polyethylene film. In cold northern regions, to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulation layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil, especially if snowdrifts melt in the spring on the surface. An interesting experience in laying outdoor sewer pipes can be gleaned from the following video.

Hardly modern man can imagine its existence without comfort and the usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or summer cottage, it is first of all necessary to properly equip the water supply system, and of course the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.

The arrangement of the sewerage system allows not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or a washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.

The installation of a sewer system is a laborious process and requires a serious approach, moreover, it is best to design a sewer at the initial stage of construction of private buildings.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out water supply and only then carry out the installation of the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.

The main types of sewer systems

The modern sewer system is classified into three main types:

• Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
• Outdoor, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, cleaning stations, cesspools, settling tanks, septic tank.
• The most important step is to carry out the sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and wiring to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage, proper arrangement is very important, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.

Materials that will be needed when arranging the sewer system

The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser, into which wastewater flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and merges into the sump, which is located on the site.

Necessary materials:

1. Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
2. Branches for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
3. Tees of the desired style, which are necessary for branching the system.
4. Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of various diameters.
5. Audits to control the functioning of the sewer system and access to clean it in case of blockage.
6. Plugs for bells, which cover unused holes.
7. Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
8. Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun that is needed to apply it.

Important! For the riser, you will need a pipe of a sufficiently large diameter (from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain waste from the toilet. Install a riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-equipped shaft.

In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.

The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to align future places, joints, which will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilet bowls, bathtubs.

To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leakage, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.

Since plastic pipes are most often used in the arrangement of the sewer system, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. the more reliable the fastening, the less likely the deformation of the sewer pipes, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.

Self-assembly of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself sewerage is quite simple, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, purchase high-quality materials, and prepare the tool you need for the job.

Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all the sewer installation work quickly and efficiently. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time controlling the quality.

It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle to prevent clogging and ensure the normal level of performance of the system. The angle of inclination per meter should be between 2 and 4 degrees.

You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging the sewerage system - it is better to give preference to pipes with an ugly inner surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connection and docking. To do this, it is necessary to build a box or gutter of drywall or other waterproof material. This design will achieve reliable fixation and get a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.

Important! When installing the transition from a vertical to a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the load on the nodes and pipes from pressure when draining water.

To install the transition node, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection sleeve, which will allow you to clean the system in case of clogging.

At the next stage, the drain line is taken out of the house. a hole of the required size is made in the foundation and a corner is cut out at an angle of 15 degrees and then a constant level of inclination of the drain pipe is established, inclusive, until it enters drain hole no more than 2-3 degrees.

Do not make a smaller slope or, on the contrary, tilt the pipe too much. A small slope will slow down the flow of drains, and with a strong slope, the sewage will pass too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to clogging and disruption of the sewer system.

Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and too large a distance can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.

At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your area. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench must be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final backfilling of the soil.

It is equally important to install several small manholes along the entire length of the sewer pipes, which will allow for an audit of the sewer system in case of blockages. Immediately before laying the sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without elevation changes.

Outdoor toilet with cesspool is gradually fading away. A new house and even a small cottage should please the owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for the building, if you approach the design wisely and use modern materials and technologies. When building a house, the drain system is laid at the design stage, along with other engineering communications, but it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort in an old house.

All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewer, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the arrangement of communications inside the premises for these cases will be the same, the only difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.

General principles for installing sewerage in a private house

In principle, the sewerage in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of a smaller diameter, through which drains from a sink, toilet bowl, etc. flow into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into large-diameter horizontal pipes, and from them into the centralized sewerage system or adjacent autonomous treatment facilities.

When planning a sewer in a house under construction, it is worth having the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewer goes outside. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other in order to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.

In a large house with a large number of bathrooms, with a complex sewer system, it is rational to install a sewer pump. A pump may also be needed if the site has absolutely no slope.

When designing sewers, the following are also taken into account:

• site landscape - wastewater flows down and the septic tank or cesspool should be at its lowest point,
• the type of soil, its freezing and the height of groundwater - this determines the depth of the external sewage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities

Material selection

On the present stage polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride - the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require welding machine. In addition to pipes, you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with a sealant.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet bowl is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet bowl. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then the pipes are taken with a larger diameter.

Pipe installation and plumbing connection

Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in a computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewerage should go at a slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. blockage prevention.

The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent drains from entering them.

Sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are supplied with inspection hatches. For soundproofing, they can be wrapped in a layer mineral wool or close with a drywall box.

Sanitary fixtures are connected to pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Fetid gases from the sewers cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathrooms come with a siphon already installed, others will require an additional purchase, toilets have a built-in siphon.

The riser is connected to the external pipes by means of horizontal pipes of the same or large diameter, located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory on turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe lies in the ground or an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the point of exit from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and through a hole in the foundation they are joined to the external sewer.

Sewer pipes are attached to the walls with clamps. Additional fasteners are installed near the tie-in points in the riser, connections and transitions.

sewer ventilation

A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example, from a toilet bowl, moving along the pipe, creates an area of ​​​​discharged space behind it. In the absence of air entering the system, water from the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe leaves, and an unpleasant odor appears. For this reason, the sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.

For riser pipes, they are extended to the roof, the upper end does not close, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently, an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from being discharged in the pipe.

Outdoor sewerage

Outside the house, it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. For their laying, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured on its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep occurrence, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.

Inspection hatches are installed at the place of connection to the house and near the docking with the central sewer or autonomous treatment facilities. It is advisable to install a check valve in the pipe. It will protect the house sewer from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool is overflowing, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.

Wastewater treatment plant

An autonomous sewer at the end may have:

• cesspool,
• biological treatment plant.

Each of these options has its advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can be recommended only for cottages where they do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. The biological treatment plant is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and its emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. A septic tank is the best option, you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.

Properly designed and installed sewerage will make living in your own home even more comfortable.

The durability and uninterrupted functioning of the sewer depends on the installation and the quality of the materials used. It is not at all necessary to hire craftsmen to work, you can also make a durable structure with your own hands, given all important points. If you decide to entrust the work to professionals, you will be able to control the process without any problems and thus be able to avoid flaws and omissions.

The initial design of the house involves the calculation of the place for future sewage facilities. This indicator will make it possible to most compactly place them in a dwelling, so that the plumbing equipment is located in one zone and connected to one collector.

Since the main line of the system runs inside the housing and in the yard, then two separate plans should be created.

For work you will need:

• graph paper;
• ruler;
• roulette;
• simple pencil.

Sequencing:

1. Designing a building to scale, according to known or measured parameters.
2. Determining the location of the risers.
3. Conditional placement of plumbing, taking into account its size and methods of connection to openings.
4. Drawing markings of connecting pipes (tees, divorces) and branch pipes going from styles and sumps to plumbing and elements.
5. Installation of risers and fan pipes connecting the sewer system with the atmosphere.
6. Combining all sewer lines inside the building, counting their length and number.
7. Design of an external pipeline, starting from the outlet pipe and ending with the well, its type and size.

When drawing up a sewerage project, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

• If the building is multi-storey, a separate markup is made for each floor.
• It is possible to combine the details of winding pipelines from the entire building through the basement or take them out in different parts of the building, and then connect them at one underground point.
• For greater efficiency work of hygienic zones, it is better to make all pipeline lines as short as possible.

Regardless of the type of treatment plant, pipes will be needed to install the entire system. But since the inner and outer markups are in various conditions, then the materials for them need to be used different.

For the arrangement of internal sewage, gray pipes made of polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride with the following diameter (in mm) are used:

• 100 - main riser and toilet outlet;
• 65-75 - vertical bifurcations of the riser;
• 50 - general discharge of waste from the bath and sink;
• 45 - individual drain from hygiene accessories;
• 32 - lead from the kitchen and bidet.

For external highways, orange PVC or asbestos pipes are used, which are characterized by increased strength. They are tasked with withstanding loads while under a layer of earth.

For sewerage in a private house, two types of pipes are used: plastic and cast iron.

Cast iron pipes

Durable, able to withstand heavy loads. However, inside over time they are destroyed by corrosion and can become clogged. In addition, they are expensive, heavy and fragile.

plastic pipes

They are divided into three subspecies according to composition. Choose the most suitable depending on the place of use and load.

Polypropylene (PP)

If everything is done according to technology, they have practically no drawbacks. Lightweight and flexible, therefore the most common. Can easily endure high and low temperature sewer water.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

Are applied to external pipelines of the sewerage. Available and lightweight. Their disadvantages: fragility, as well as not resistance to high temperatures (burst).

When choosing, pay attention to appearance products. High-quality building materials have smooth edges and burr-free joints. Also, the quality can be determined by the weight of the pipe: the heavier it is, the greater the thickness of the plastic and the composition of the material.

Polyethylene

Are used for installation of external part of the sewerage. They can be of any diameter, suitable for laying in the ground at a depth of up to 15 meters. Not heat-resistant, can expand under the influence of temperatures.

The entire sewer line is divided into two parts: internal and external, the arrangement of which must be dealt with separately. Part of the system inside the house consists of pipes running from the plumbing to the riser, which goes to the outside outlet. The main rule when laying it is to combine all the forks in such a way that the flow of waste fluids is as smooth as possible. In order for the structure to serve for a long time and efficiently, one should not save on building materials.

Necessary components for sewerage:

• bends;
• tees (for branching);
• reducers or adapters (for assembling branches of different sizes);
• plugs for sockets (to clog extra holes);
• fasteners for fixing sockets;
• silicone in a tube for lubricating rubber seals - seals the connection and facilitates the docking of parts.

Sewerage in a private house - stages of laying pipelines

The sequence of laying drain sewer lines must be strictly observed.

1. Release. This is the boundary part of the system, which combines the branch pipes coming out of the wall of the dwelling and going to the storage tank. It is installed first of all in order to prevent possible inconsistencies of the planes in the last stages and to ensure the desired slope (2 cm per 1 m).

An opening is made in the wall or foundation. A retreat pipe with a sleeve is laid in it (a protective section with a diameter of 110-130 mm; the length depends on the thickness of the wall: it is better to choose 10-20 mm longer than the thickness) and fixed with a cement-sand mortar. The sleeve is used mainly metal.

1. Connecting plumbing with a water seal (will protect your home from unpleasant odors) and a snake-like tube.
2. Connecting the first bell to them.
3. Using a pair of angular (with a 45 degree bend) elbows, a horizontal one is connected to a vertical pipe.
4. If this or that accessory is far from the riser, the pipes to it are laid at a slope (3 cm per 1 m).
5. The required tilt gap is adjusted by clamps that are attached to the wall or floor and maintain the markings in a suitable position. The gap between the clamps is approximately 2 meters.
6. If the branches of the drain outlets are located above the floor level, then after each turn a revision is installed (a part with a cover to remove blockages).
7. In multi-storey buildings, the same deadbolts are mounted on each riser.
8. The connection of pipes with diameters of 5 and 10 cm is carried out using a special adapter.

Important points when installing sewerage:

• In order for the pipe joints to be compactly connected, they are treated with a sealant, and the outer ones are lubricated from the inside, and the inner ones from the outside.
• Ventilation must be provided for the riser, so its height must correspond to the height of the building. The upper hole is brought out to the roof and covered with a grate twice as large in diameter as it is. This background output will not only serve as ventilation, it will maintain atmospheric pressure and extend the life of the device.
• The slope of a tube with a diameter of 5 cm should be - 3 cm per 1 m of length; and 10 cm - 2 cm per 1m.

Before moving on to the next stages of sewerage construction in a private house, it is necessary to designate:

• the number of residents;
• total volume of water used daily;
• depth of groundwater;
• the area of ​​the site and the place for the installation of sewer facilities;
• soil type and structure.

Then you need to navigate by the types of waste containers.

Cumulative

Sewage storage tanks include a sealed tank and a cesspool without a bottom.

Cesspool without a bottom

Often used for arranging sewerage in a private house. It is a well paved with concrete or brick. Liquid effluents that fall into the tank seep into the soil, and organic matter and feces settle.

Over time, they accumulate and are pumped out by special equipment. If the daily mass of waste exceeds one cubic meter, it is better to choose a different design.

Sealed container in the form of a tank

It is very simple to make such a sewer in a private house with your own hands:

1. A hole is dug in the ground.
2. Its bottom is concreted.
3. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other, pre-treated with cement or sealant.
4. It is covered with a metal lid, which has a hole for a corrugated tube.

The main thing is that the container is completely sealed. The volume of the tank depends on the average amount of water used per day, but its depth should not exceed 3 m, otherwise the hose will not reach the bottom (during cleaning). Suitable for areas where ground water are located in the upper layers of the soil (5-10m deep).

Disadvantage: you will often have to empty it by hiring a special vehicle, so you need to provide an entrance for transport.

Septic tanks

They are an underground sewage sump with one or more compartments through which drains pass and their mechanical and biological treatment is carried out. After that, they fall into the filtering drainage, where they are cleaned with a layer of rubble. Suitable for filtering soils (sand, sandy loam) with a depth of at least 2 m.

Do-it-yourself sewerage device in a private house from monolithic concrete

1. A pit is dug, corresponding to the size of the cement chamber.
2. The bottom is compacted and leveled.
3. A shock-absorbing pillow is made of sand, 30 cm thick.
4. A mesh (20 * 20 cm) of reinforcement (diameter 10 mm) is laid.
5. A 3-centimeter ball of concrete (grade B15) is poured from above.
6. Aged 14 days until completely solidified.
7. Wall pouring. The thickness of the walls is 20 cm, and the internal partitions - 15.
8. After drying, floors are built. A wooden formwork with supports and a mesh of metal rods (12 mm) is installed.
9. Sloped filtration fields (drainage) made of crushed stone and gravel are being equipped, into which the processed liquid for post-treatment will flow by gravity.

Regardless of which concrete structure you have chosen for the sewer (annular or monolithic), it is desirable to process it from the inside for waterproofing. For coating, waterproofing is used, for example LAKHTA or Penetron. A heated resin is also used, but it exfoliates over time and does not impregnate the walls of the structure.

Outcome

The question of how to make a sewer in a private house is very relevant, but does not present any particular difficulties. It is actually easy to install and equip a waste disposal structure - follow our instructions and you will succeed.

It is difficult to call a comfortable private house that is not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Such an important component of the home communications network is subject to environmental and efficiency requirements; The drainage system of a private house should be simple to arrange and easy to use.

Schematic diagram of sewerage in a private house

One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; how to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation, the rules verified by experience will help you figure it out.

Varieties of sewerage systems in a private house

All houses located in the private sector are conventionally divided into two categories:

Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases, the best option, with a long service life and no maintenance problems, unplanned expenses and water quality control.

Houses where connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is unavailable is not a reason to give up comfort. Under such conditions, the sewage system in a private house is reduced to an autonomous option, where water treatment and waste disposal takes place in locally installed treatment facilities.

You can also combine the sewer and drainage systems

Autonomous sewerage system includes:

internal sewerage responsible for the collection of wastewater and their output to the outside. It includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.

External sewerage. Its elements are external piping and a water treatment device (septic tank or autonomous sewer installation).

The most suitable (in terms of performance) type of individual treatment equipment is selected, taking into account several factors:

seasonality of living in the house;

intensity of water use;

plot size, soil type and structure;

groundwater level;

climatic conditions of the region.

The first stage of sewerage installation is the development of a preliminary project scheme.

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme in a house

The sewerage scheme in a private house is tied to the plan of the house. It should contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drainage points.

When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will cause problems during operation and repair in the future.

Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and floors are installed, but the finishing work of the premises has not yet been carried out. External sewerage is mounted after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage scheme for a private two-story house:

General scheme of internal sewerage in a two-story house

The order of drawing up the scheme:

All drawings are built to scale, the place of installation of the riser, pipe laying lines, the number of drain points (connection of plumbing and household appliances) are applied to the plan.

The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline is calculated (including the outlet), the exit point from the structure of the main riser.

In places of possible formation of blockages, cleaning and revisions are provided.

A separate drawing is built for each floor.

The size and location of the installation of the vent pipe is calculated (in large sewer systems, it prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the sewer pipe)

The scheme of external communications is built on the same principle.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of design and installation of sewerage and water supply. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

About the sewerage scheme with a fan pipe on the video:

The choice of pipes for internal sewage

Building codes allow the following categories of pipes:

Cast iron. Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and the appearance of blockages. Pipes are ideal for laying in the ground.

Plastic. They are lighter and cheaper than cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for intra-house wiring are gray; intended for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:

Pipes from PVC(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from heat and are mainly used in outdoor applications.

Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and durable. Valued for their heat resistance (they soften only at 140 C°), they are therefore ideal for indoor use.

plastic pipes for inner and outer contour

Less common ceramic and asbestos-cement analogues.

In practice, the installation of sewerage in a private house in most cases is carried out using products made of polymeric materials (plastic). The choice is determined by the absence of corrosion (plastic is resistant to aggressive wastewater environments), and easy installation of structures.

How is sewer wiring done

The most time-consuming part of the work is considered to be the wiring of sewers for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.

Inside the house

Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are mounted parallel to the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.

Sewer installation technology provides for several types of pipes:

Sewer riser, 100 mm in diameter.

Main (between riser and outlet); diameter 70 mm.

Branch (connected to the washbasin, bathroom, washing machine) - 50 mm.

Completed piping installation

The spillway system inside the house is gravity (non-pressure). To avoid blockages, pipes are mounted with a slope, the value of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per linear meter, a diameter of 100 mm - 20 mm.

Completed ceiling wiring

Horizontal wiring is performed using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45 °; this arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, revisions (cleanings) are provided. Right angles are allowed only in vertically arranged structures.

fan pipe

With a sharp entry into the sewer of a large amount of wastewater, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of ​​​​low atmospheric pressure (vacuum) is created behind them, into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.

When the pressure equalizes, then without a water plug, the smell from the sewer enters the room back through the siphons. To prevent the occurrence of vacuum, a fan pipe is installed with air valve- they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.

Fan pipe features:

It is designed and displayed 50-70 cm above the roof.

It must not be combined with a chimney or ventilation.

It is not placed near windows or balconies.

Conclusion of the exhaust (fan) pipe through the roof

outdoor part

Installation of the outer part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.

The outlet (the connecting link between the external and internal sewerage at the boundary of the room) is laid at the base of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not provided during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the protective sleeve, 200-250 mm wider than the pipe diameter. Its edge should protrude from each side of the foundation by 15 cm. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.

Laying of external communications

It is reasonable to place wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) side by side and at the same time as close as possible to the central riser. This will help to reduce the length of sewer communications to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.

A voluminous project (pool, bath, sauna), additional plumbing means a large amount of waste. A carefully designed water supply and drainage scheme, additional risers and septic tanks, and a pump connection will be required.

Sewer pipes in a private house can be placed under the floor, in the walls or laid on top. Near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, a water seal is arranged, thanks to which extraneous odors cannot enter the premises.

It is unacceptable to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noise. When the slope decreases, the flow of water slows down, which is fraught with blockage.

Slope control when laying sewers

The complex topography of the site creates additional problems for laying a pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is built that allows you to determine the position of the sewer elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, the solution will be to install a pump.

Clearly about some of the nuances of sewerage in the video:

Conclusion

A well-designed and organized sewerage system will help create the necessary minimum comfort for the inhabitants of the house. The achievement of this worthy goal is facilitated by the involvement of specialized specialists. And it does not matter whether it is a wooden house or a brick one - the principles of the system are the same everywhere.