Let's start with the fact that the ignition switch includes mechanical and electrical parts. The first part is made in the body of the device, and the second part is made separately from the terminal block. In use, failures are related equally to both parts of the ignition switch, with slightly more faults per terminal block in percentage terms.

Note that any work on the electrical part must be carried out provided that the negative terminal is removed. This is especially important if you need to check the operation of the consumer. Let us consider in more detail the failures in the mechanical and electrical parts.

Mechanical

Often, the failure of the ignition switch on the mechanical part is provoked by:

• tight turning of the ignition key;
• jamming in one of the positions. As a rule, such a malfunction leads to a break in the ignition key, which, in turn, requires additional waste for the purchase of a new part.

Basically, these problems arise due to poor assembly of the ignition switch from unscrupulous manufacturers. So that the product does not have to be changed often, you need to install a reliable and durable part.

Electrical part

Even if the mechanical part of the ignition switch is fully functional, the terminal block still often fails. You can always replace it, since a similar spare part is sold in any store for cars.

The terminal part often burns itself out or its contacts that connect certain power supply circuits burn out. It also happens that the central plastic insert melts, which opens and closes some contacts at different positions of the ignition key. This overheating provokes a long holding of the key in the “starter” position, when the driver cannot start the engine of his vehicle for a long time.

In such cases, it is necessary to buy a new terminal block, not the ignition switch.

It is very important that the connection remains unchanged. If you are replacing for the first time, you need to look at the bottom of the ignition switch and there draw the colors of the wire and the terminals to which they are connected. Each of them on the block has its own number, so it is very convenient to write down the color of the wire and the terminal number so as not to confuse anything.

On a VAZ 2106 car, the ignition switch is the main control element for the on-board electrical equipment system. Only with full technical serviceability of the lock is the correct operation of the ignition system ensured.

Unfortunately, the VAZ 2106 ignition lock cannot boast of long-term uninterrupted operation, and quite often motorists are faced with the fact that it fails.

Therefore, they have to figure out what the VAZ 2106 ignition lock is, the wiring diagram, remove it, repair what is out of order, and then mount it back, remembering the wiring diagram along the way.

Our article will help you understand the issues of electronic ignition of the VAZ 2106. After reading it, many will be able to repair the lock on the VAZ 2106 on their own and will no longer experience problems with its dismantling and installation. It will also come in handy for those who don’t remember which connection scheme for each cable on the device.

basic information

The main elements of the ignition locks on the VAZ 2106 are the ignition switching system and the starter control circuit. Voltage is applied to a given circuit at a certain key position.

The design of electronic ignition on a VAZ consists of two elements:

• The electrical part is a wire terminal fixed in the lower part of the lock with a locking clip. Thanks to this element, the correct distribution of voltage to the on-board electronics of the car occurs.

The mechanical part is installed directly in the ignition switch itself. She is responsible in the car for locking the steering wheel, turning on the electronics and starting the starter.

It is worth noting that on a VAZ 2106 car, breakdowns can equally be associated with both the mechanical elements of the part and the electronics.

During the use of the vehicle, non-contact ignition malfunctions are different, so you need to understand what they can be associated with and know the wiring diagram.

What damage can be in the ignition lock?

As mentioned above, practice shows that breakdowns are characteristic of both parts of the castle and often a replacement of one or another half is required. Sometimes ignition coils VAZ 2106 can fail

When servicing these elements, you need to know what a contactless ignition circuit is, and after that it is necessary to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, except if the presence of voltage on consumers is checked.

1. Mechanical failure

The most common malfunction of the mechanical part of the bzs is a tight turn of the key, if the connection problem is not solved in time, the key will jam in the lock or break. As a result, you will have to change the entire lock, and such a replacement will require a lot of money.

Factory ignition locks from VAZ 2106 cars very rarely break down in this way, such a malfunction is typical for Chinese spare parts, because the cost of an analogue is an order of magnitude lower. Analogues are not subject to repair, unlike spare parts of the LADA automobile plant.

If a car enthusiast encounters a similar problem, then in the future, as a rule, he already purchases an original spare part from AvtoVAZ, no longer trusting Chinese parts manufacturers.

1. Breakdown of the electronic part

Often, malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch are associated with the electronic part of the device and they also need to be replaced. In this case, it is important to remember that the wiring diagram plays a huge role, and you should not confuse the wires in places.

The main causes of a malfunction of the ignition terminal:

• Contact oxidation.
• Partial or complete combustion of wires.

Melting of the plastic part of the terminal.

These reasons are caused by poor terminal contact on the VAZ 2106, or by the fact that the starter starts for a long time.

In this case, it is necessary to change only the electronic unit, which can be purchased separately in auto parts stores.

When replacing, it is necessary to remember or draw the colors of each cable on the connection to the lock so that the circuit is at hand, or simply take a picture of the terminal on the phone. Each contact has a specific number. So, the connection can be made according to the scheme indicated on the manufacturer's packaging box. If there is no scheme or it is lost, then read on.

Wiring diagram

The electronic block of the lock has the following contacts:

15 - a double blue wire with a black stripe is connected to the contact.

30 - pink wire. Responsible for turning on the starter.

30/1 - brown wire.

50 - purple or red. The color depends on the year of manufacture of the car. Additional circuit for starting the starter.

INT - black wire with two contacts, responsible for supplying voltage from the positive terminal to the ignition switch.

The ignition circuit is quite simple, and the pinout of the wires is remembered by many from the first time.

Replacing the ignition lock

This procedure can be performed independently, if you have at least basic skills in working with tools, and be sure to observe. The ignition lock on a VAZ 2106 car is not too complicated, and the wiring diagram for all the wires is simple and clear. Therefore, self-replacement, without contacting a service center, is performed by many motorists.

To repair, disconnect and connect, you will need:

• plus screwdriver;
• slotted screwdriver;
• thin awl or small carnation.

Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before starting repairs!

Many people know that a voltage of 12V is not scary for a person and is not afraid to get an electric shock. At the same time, they forget that electricity can affect not only the hand, but also the parts of the car. If, when trying to remove the lock, the wires are accidentally closed, this may lead to the failure of some of the electronic components of the machine.

To replace, you need to take a large Phillips and a small socket screwdriver. First of all, the plastic casing of the steering wheel is dismantled. First, the lower bar is removed, then the upper one. After the casing is removed, all elements of the lock become accessible and can be removed.

The second step is to disconnect the wires from the mechanical half of the device, after remembering the position of the terminals, because the pinout of the wires is important in this case. This was discussed above.

After unscrewing the bolts of the lock itself with a small screwdriver, it is necessary to turn the car key to the “zero” position. Now the device should come out of the mount easily and without much effort.

The next step is to unhook all the wires that fit the ignition switch. For those who fussed, the scheme was redrawn or photographed, while the rest can print a memo from this article. This will help them connect the part without too much trouble.

Then we look for a small flat slot to the left of the part on the bracket and with an effort we stick an awl there to press the latch.

Now you can pull the ignition lock out of the bracket by prying it with another screwdriver.

Installing and connecting a new lock occurs in the reverse order. The main thing is to connect all the contacts correctly, remembering the connection diagram, otherwise you can burn the wires.

Do not forget that the negative terminal of the battery must be disconnected during replacement.

The ignition lock in cars of the VAZ family fails from time to time due to the weakening of the contact racks or the burning of the contacts inside it. It also happens to produce cams of a plastic roller. You can disassemble the lock and clean it, but it's better to just change it for a new one, given that it costs a penny compared to imported locks.

But if connecting the wires together did not cause the starter to operate (or it did not turn on the first time), check the solenoid relay on the starter. The contact patches can also burn on it, which will prevent the circuit from closing normally. Alternatively, you can close two large outputs on the retractor relay with a screwdriver (before that, we put the car in neutral and use the handbrake). When closed, the starter should begin to spin vigorously. If this happens, remove and change the solenoid relay. If the starter turns “sluggish” when closed, you will have to remove it and check the condition of the brushes.

All operations are performed by hand, without the help of car service specialists. Moreover, the price of an ignition switch on a VAZ2106 is up to 100 rubles. To replace it, you will need to know the pinout of the wires coming from it, for which the site's editors have prepared a large reference material.

The ignition switch is designed not only to start the engine - it performs several functions at once:

1. supplies voltage to the vehicle's on-board network, closing the circuits of the ignition system, lighting, sound alarm, additional devices and instruments;
2. at the command of the driver, turns on the starter to start the power plant and turns it off;
3. turns off the power of the on-board circuit, preserving the charge of the battery;
4. protects the car from theft by fixing the steering shaft.

Pinout of the ignition lock VAZ-2101 - VAZ-2107

The ignition lock for these cars is located to the left of the steering column. It is fixed directly to it with two fixing bolts. The entire mechanism of the device, except for the upper part, in which the keyhole is located, is hidden by a plastic casing.

On the visible part of the ignition lock housing, special marks are applied in a certain order, allowing inexperienced drivers to navigate in the lock on mode when the key is in the well:

• "" - a label indicating that all systems, devices and devices that are switched on with the help of a lock are turned off (these do not include the cigarette lighter, the interior lighting dome, the brake light, and in some cases the radio tape recorder);
• « I"- a label informing that the vehicle's on-board network is powered by a battery. In this position, the key is fixed independently, and electricity is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater and windshield washer, instrumentation, headlights and light signaling;
• « II» – mark of engine start. It indicates that the starting device is energized. The key is not fixed in this position. If released, it will return to the "I" position. This is done in order not to subject the starter to unnecessary loads;
• « III"- parking mark. If the key is removed from the ignition lock in this position, the steering column will lock with a lock. It can only be unlocked by inserting the key back and moving it to position "0" or "I".

The ignition lock has five contacts and, accordingly, five conclusions, which are responsible for supplying voltage to the desired node. All of them are numbered for convenience. Each pin corresponds to a wire of a certain color:

• "50" - the output responsible for supplying current to the starter (red or purple wire);
• "15" - the output through which voltage is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater, washer, dashboard (double blue wire with a black stripe);
• "30" and "30/1" - a constant "plus" (pink and brown wires, respectively);
• "INT" - outdoor lighting and light signaling (double black wire).

Pinout of the lock VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099

Plinth according to the old type

Pinout of the ignition lock VAZ-2109 with an unloading relay:

1. +12V comes in position I, II, III (parking)
2. +12V comes in position III (parking)
3. position I, +12V leaves after the ignition is turned on (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
4. position I, +12V leaves after the ignition is turned on (terminal 15), does not disappear at start II;
5. comes +12V constantly.

Plinth according to a new type

Pinout of the ignition lock VAZ-2109 of a new sample:

1. comes + 12V constantly
2. comes + 12V constantly
3. + 12V comes after the ignition is turned on (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
4. position I
5. + 12V comes after the ignition is turned on (terminal 15), does not disappear at start II;
6. + 12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
7. comes +12V constantly.

Pinout of the lock VAZ-2110, VAZ-2111, VAZ-2112

Pinout of the ignition lock VAZ-2110:

1. + 12V goes to the starter (terminal 50);
2. + 12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
3. not used.

Pinout of the lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Pinout of the ignition lock VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:

1. + 12V comes to the mikrik of the sensor of the inserted key;
2. mass comes with the driver's door open;
3. + 12V goes to the starter (terminal 50);
4. leaves + 12V after turning on the ignition (terminal 15);
5. leaves + 12V with the key inserted on the 5th contact of the BSK;
6. + 12V comes to illuminate the lock cylinder;
7. + 12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. not used.

Scheme of the VAZ and the ignition lock of the car

The structure of the car ignition lock

1. Locking rod
2. Frame
3. Roller
4. contact disc
5. contact sleeve
6. Block
7. Protrusion of the contact part.

The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When the ignition key is turned, the electrical circuit is closed from the "-" terminal of the battery to the ignition coil. As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates a high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.

Replacing the ignition lock on a VAZ car

To carry out repair work on replacing the ignition switch of a vase, we need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. With everything you need, you can begin to repair. On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located at the bottom left of the steering column. To replace you need:

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws securing it.
3. Then we unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.
4. We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.
5. We insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.
6. After removal, it is recommended to mark the wires of the contacts so that nothing is mixed up the next time you connect.

Removing the ignition switch on the VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column cover. We unscrew five bolts, and remove its halves. Before proceeding with the disassembly of the electrical part of the lock, it is very handy to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After that, we take out the spring lock ring from the back of the lock body and take out the contact group. We take it aside so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is attached to the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which, nothing happens. It is useless to try to pull the lock out of the nest if you do not know about a special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. This stopper is pressed into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is an anti-theft rod. Although it is in the “off” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock larva, the anti-theft also moves and sinks as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes, the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Here is the time to write that the assembly of the assembly should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert a new lock into the bracket, drowning the latch and holding the key in the start position, tighten the fixing bolts, then connect the wires. This should be given special attention, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We hook the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After that, we assemble the casing of the steering column.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, fixed on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock latch with a thin awl and remove the ignition lock from the seat. This completes the repair work on removing the ignition switch.

On models VAZ 2108 and higher, a bag with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of confusing the wires when installing a new switch is completely excluded. Well, on models VAZ 2107 and below, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, therefore, when removing each wire, it must be marked so that it is not confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition switch, it is necessary to pry the retaining ring from the edge with a thin screwdriver or an awl and remove the contact part. When installing a new contact part, orient it so that the terminals "15" and "30" are on the side of the locking rod.

This completes the repair work, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the marking from the old switch to the new one. The pinout or wiring diagram for the VAZ ignition switch is quite simple and understandable, so every motorist can repair or replace a spare part without resorting to the help of car service employees.

Node for car ignition system

Sometimes, when operating a domestic VAZ car, the following situation arises: you get into the car, insert the key into the ignition, turn the key to position I, and the indicator lights on the dashboard do not light up. If you do not notice this and try to start the engine, the starter does not turn and does not even click. Experienced drivers in such cases immediately check the health of the lock.

The ignition lock of the VAZ classic consists of two parts: a mechanical (secret), into which the key is inserted, and a contact group, to which the wires are connected. The mechanical part is inseparable from the body, and in case of failure it is necessary to change the lock. The contact group is removable, it is inserted into the back of the device and fastened with a spring ring. Due to the simplicity of the design, the ignition switch of a VAZ 2106 car breaks down extremely rarely, almost as rarely as the engine or gearbox.

There is only one malfunction, due to which it may be necessary to replace the ignition switch of the VAZ classic assembly - a breakdown in the mechanism of the secret part. You can do the operation to replace the device with your own hands even in an open field in 10 minutes.

Removing a failed device

To remove the ignition lock VAZ 2106, the following tools are required:

• plus screwdriver;
• slotted screwdriver;
• awl.

Replacing the ignition unit

In the absence of an awl, to dismantle the device, you can use a long thin nail with a section of 1.5-2 mm with a wide head or a screwdriver to unscrew small screws from the mobile phone case.

Before carrying out the main procedure, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal from the battery. Despite the fact that a current of 12 volts is practically harmless to the health of an adult, when removing the device, you can inadvertently short the wires, which, in turn, can lead to the failure of important electrical equipment in the car.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. To begin, insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it 90 degrees to the "0" position. This is necessary so that the pin holding the steering shaft from turning enters the secret part a little and does not interfere with dismantling.
2. Next, you need to remove the plastic casing of the steering column. To do this, sequentially unscrew the 5 screws connecting the lower and upper parts of the casing.
3. Then carefully lift the upper part of the steering column cover and pull it up. After that, remove both parts of the casing to the side.
4. Next, find and unscrew the screws that secure the device itself. There are two of them, they are located below the switch, on the right and left.
5. Then unhook the wires from the ignition switch contacts.
6. Next, find a flat slot on the bracket to the left of the device, stick an awl in there and press the latch with it with force.
7. After that, you can remove the device from the bracket by prying it with a slotted screwdriver.

If, despite all the efforts made, the switch "refuses" to get out of the bracket, it means that the latch is not fully pressed. You need to press the latch with an awl, and then move the key a little to the left and right without turning it. The latch will shrink to the end, and all that remains is to pull out the switch.

With the ignition switch on the "six" a lot of problems can arise. This is the oxidation of wires, jamming of the larvae and much more. To deal with this, you need to know how the VAZ-2106 ignition switch is removed and connected. In principle, there is nothing complicated here, now you will see for yourself.

Connection

Remove the ignition switch.

Prying off with a thin screwdriver, remove the retaining ring.

We take out the contact part from the switch body.

We assemble and install the switch in the reverse order, given that ...

... the grooves in the circuit breaker body and the protrusions of the contact part have different widths, so the contact part is installed in the circuit breaker in only one position.

In order not to guess during assembly, be guided by the conclusions "15" and "30", which should be opposite the locking rod of the lock.

Switching of terminals of the ignition switch

Key position	Contacts under voltage	Switched circuits
0 (Disabled)
I (Ignition)		Outdoor Lighting. Windshield and headlight cleaners and washers
		The excitation winding of the generator. Ignition system. Carburetor pneumatic valve control system. Direction indicators. Control devices. Heater. Heated rear window. reversing light
II (Starter)		See position I
		See position I
III (Parking)		See position I

Scheme

Castle structure

Locking rod
Frame
Roller
contact disc
contact sleeve
Block
Protrusion of the contact part.

The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When the ignition key is turned, the electrical circuit is closed from the "-" terminal of the battery to the ignition coil.

As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates a high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.

The ignition lock, like all spare parts, eventually requires repair or replacement. And any motorist can easily cope with this, having a minimum stock of necessary knowledge.

How to withdraw

On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located at the bottom left of the steering column. To replace you need:

Disconnect battery

Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws securing it.

Then we unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.

We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.

We insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.

How to change

Removing the ignition switch on the VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column cover. We unscrew five bolts, and remove its halves. Before proceeding with the disassembly of the electrical part of the lock, it is very handy to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After that, we take out the spring lock ring from the back of the lock body and take out the contact group. We take it aside so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is attached to the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which, nothing happens. It is useless to try to pull the lock out of the nest if you do not know about a special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. This stopper is pressed into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is an anti-theft rod. Although it is in the “off” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock larva, the anti-theft also moves and sinks as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes, the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Here is the time to write that the assembly of the assembly should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert a new lock into the bracket, drowning the latch and holding the key in the start position, tighten the fixing bolts, then connect the wires. This should be given special attention, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We hook the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After that, we assemble the casing of the steering column.

Installation

To carry out repair work on replacing the ignition lock of the VAZ 2106, we need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. With everything you need, you can begin to repair.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, fixed on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock latch with a thin awl and remove the ignition lock from the seat.

This completes the repair work on removing the ignition lock VAZ 2106.

On models VAZ 2108 and higher, a bag with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of confusing the wires when installing a new switch is completely excluded. Well, on models VAZ 2107 and below, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, therefore, when removing each wire, it must be marked so that it is not confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition lock, it is necessary to pry the retaining ring from the edge with a thin screwdriver or awl and remove the contact part. When installing a new contact part, orient it so that the terminals "15" and "30" are on the side of the locking rod.

This completes the repair work, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the marking from the old switch to the new one.

Pinout

This shows the pinout of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch, which will help the correct use of the functionality of this element of the vehicle's power system.

33 position numbering	Name of contacts products	Involved power system circuits
"0" - off.	30 and 30/1	Ignition circuits engaged in emergency mode
"I" - ignition		Aft and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the cooling system BSZ (on-board ignition system), initiation of the generator unit, control panel instrument sensors, sound and light type signals of “turn signals”
"II" - starter		Aft and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the vehicle cooling system Starter chain
"III" - parking position		Aft and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the cooling system

Just in case, the pinout on the block is as follows: 15 - blue with black (double) 30/1 - brown 50 - red 30 - pink INT - black (double)

Faults

Often, after long-term operation, the unstable operation of the ignition switch is due to the burning of the contacts or the weakening of the contact posts in the base plate. In such a situation, you can try to clean the contacts with a regular needle file (preferably diamond), followed by rinsing with alcohol or gasoline. It is not recommended to use sandpaper, since its grains are easily embedded in the soft material of the plates and there will be no sense in such cleaning.

As for the "walking" racks, they can be fixed with pieces of plastic with a final fix with epoxy glue. If the racks are slightly deformed (such a defect is typical for early models), then they are given their original shape with small pliers.

The next group of malfunctions of VAZ ignition locks is associated with the development of plastic roller cams. In this case, you can restore the original shape of the working protrusions using a conventional soldering iron, applying a layer of polystyrene to the right places. The main thing is that the performed surfacing is homogeneous and does not have bubbles and shells. The final profile is attached with a needle file.

By the way, before “sinning” the lock as such, it would be useful to check the condition of the contacts at the wire connection points, which go not only to the lock switch, but also to the breaker and coil - quite often the solution to the problem is hidden here.

After finishing work on restoring the ignition lock, you should check how efficient the contact group has become. For this purpose, turning the roller manually, at the same time, using an ohmmeter, measure the reliability of the connection of the contacts in all positions. For clarity, you can use a simple device in the form of a light bulb and a battery, in which case the presence of contact is confirmed by the steady glow of the light bulb.

It must be said that the reliability of the ignition switches on later products of the VAZ concern (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112, etc.) is also far from perfect, moreover, as a rule, they cannot be repaired and had to be changed immediately. However, in any case, before taking such a step, you should first check whether the lock has really failed. The easiest way to do this procedure is to measure the resistance on the contact block of the lock, setting the key in turn in all three working positions. For a working lock, these resistances are practically zero.

If desired, you can also check the serviceability of the backlight, for which it is required to supply voltage from a 12V source to pins 2 and 6 of the onboard harness block. If the lamp does not light up, then it is faulty or there is an open in its power circuit.