Fox bay: mountains and sea

Lisya Bay is not even quite a bay, but rather a smooth bend of the coastline from Karadag to Meganom, with the common name of Chalka Bay. The nearest villages are Kurortnoye (2 km along the coast) and Shchebetovka (3 km across the mountain).

Lisya Bay is located under the highest of the inclined platforms located in the cliffs of the terraces of the Echki-Dag massif. It adjoins a hundred-meter ledge of gray clay, all cut up by ravines and gullies. Bare gray slopes are only occasionally diversified by long green lashes of capers. Flat dunes and sandy plumes are overgrown with grate, sea mustard and saltpeter. In the recesses of the ravines there are small trees and low thorny shrubs.

They say that the old name of the bay is “Bald”, because of the shores devoid of vegetation. Over time, the name of the bay was transformed into "Fox", it has nothing to do with foxes.

The hills adjacent to the coast of the bay are highly prone to landslides. Moreover, the most active landslides can move by 10-12 meters per year. In the Conclusion of the geological examination carried out by the Yalta Engineering Geological Party and dated 07/14/89, it is written in black and white: "Any economic activity on the slopes associated with a violation of the natural regime of landslides invariably causes their sharp activation." Creeping slopes are able to literally "break" the strongest foundation. From the Conclusion: “Expenses for engineering preparation, territory protection and operation of facilities may turn out to be record-breaking in comparison with other regions of the southeastern Crimea. At the same time, the natural environment of the tract will be irreversibly damaged.

The same conclusion states that the beaches of Fox Bay are "in a state of unstable dynamic equilibrium", which means one thing: if this fragile balance is disturbed, the changes will be irreversible. The beach of the Fox Bay is replenished due to the inflow of stones from the mountains during heavy rains. It consists of small dark pebbles and sand from frayed shells. A little further the sand ends and the pebble beach begins. Among the pebbles of Lisya Bay, carnelians, brought by sea from Karadag, occasionally come across. There are few of them: concrete walls bunion boarding house "Crimean Primorye", built in Kurortny, almost blocked the movement of marine sediments.

The bottom of the bay is flat, the descent into the water is smooth, but very large stones occasionally come across. If there is no storm, the water is always clear. A storm lifts clay washed off the shore from the bottom. A day after the storm, the water is clear again - to the delight of diving enthusiasts, who definitely have something to do in Fox Bay. Unlike those who want to climb mountains: apart from the neighboring Echki-Dag, there are few facilities for mountain walks.

Lisya Bay is interesting for biologists, but poisonous snakes and insects have not been found in its vicinity. There is no animal worse than a crab in Fox Bay, and jellyfish appear only after a storm.

According to the decision of the Verkhovna Rada of Crimea dated September 10, 2008, Fox Bay and Echki-Dag are a regional landscape park. According to the Law "On the Natural Reserve Fund of Ukraine", landscape parks "are created with the aim of preserving in their natural state typical or unique natural complexes and objects, as well as providing conditions for organized recreation of the population.

Fox Bay: who lived here

Lisya Bay is widely known among nudists throughout the former Soviet Union. But historians testify that modern nudists are not the first people who have chosen the bay to live in the nude. Pithecanthropes were the first. Archaeologists assure that the area of ​​Lisya Bay and Echki-Dag has been mastered by man since ancient times. About 20 pre-human sites have been found here. Tools made from hard pebbles rocks and purposefully pointed at one end, they are protorubile, protoscraper, etc. These finds date back to the Old Stone Age (more than 100-150 thousand years ago), the time of the formation of man as a biological species. Scientists have long known, but the general public is not aware of the fact that Lisya Bay and the foothills of Echki-Dag are the places where the most ancient archaeological sites were found on the territory of the entire Eastern Ukraine.

In the Bronze Age (4th-3rd millennia BC), the territory of the southeastern Crimea was already actively developed. In the Lisya Bay area, the Chalkinsky settlement with a long-term cultural layer of ash, fragments of molded dishes and stone tools, and split bones of wild and domestic animals has been well studied. Traces of primitive dwellings and burials have been found.

In ancient times, the area of ​​Echki-Dag and Lisya Bay belonged to the possessions of the Taurians, as evidenced by traces of settlements, camps and burial grounds from stone boxes-dolmens. The militancy of the Taurians was probably the reason why no traces of the presence of ancient colonists were found on the territory of Lisya Bay. But that the ancient Greeks sailed along these shores is beyond doubt.

In the 40s of the 8th century, iconodules from Byzantium appeared in the Crimea. Archaeologists have discovered about 15 settlements of this period on the territory of the Otuzskaya Valley (near Shebetovka). Then the Khazars invaded (VIII century) and destroyed all the Byzantine settlements. After the collapse of the Khazar Khaganate (971), Byzantium again established its influence in the Eastern Crimea. After the Byzantines, these lands were ruled by the Venetians (XII century), then the Genoese (XII-XIV centuries), along with them - the Crimean Tatars, both of them were ousted by the Turks (1475) ...

The change of "owners" of the territory, whose interests were reduced mainly to the collection of tribute, had a very weak effect on the life of the coastal population, who from century to century continued to live within the same economic structure. It was mainly engaged in agriculture and cattle breeding, using the slopes of neighboring mountains and valleys for this. The environs of Echki-Dag and Lisya Bay have preserved numerous traces of sheep sheds and other shepherd's buildings. For centuries, their owners drove sheep to the same pastures, using the same water sources for watering, many of which are still functioning, built their houses on the same areas suitable for habitation. Traces of houses and landings cultivated plants, already completely run wild, can still be seen in the territories adjacent to the Lisya Bay and Echki-Dag.

In the XVIII century. a series of Russian-Turkish wars unfolded, ending with the annexation of Crimea to Russian Empire in 1783. In the Soviet years, the surroundings of neighboring Shchebetovka and Kurortny were planted with numerous vineyards, and this does not pass by the attention of the modern population of Lisya Bay. Since the middle of the 20th century, it has become a Mecca for informal youth and nudists. This caused a certain concern to the military: not far, on Karadag, there was and is now a border part. In the book of Alexander and Andrey Yena "Pilot of the Crimea" (2008), the following situation is described:

“Along the shore, dotted with naked bodies from all over the USSR, a border boat slowly passes in one direction or the other. Dressed in a pressed summer uniform-2, in a white cap, with a black tie (for sailors this is a summer uniform), an officer stands on the bridge and desperately calls out over the speakerphone: “Citizens, you are near the state border of the USSR. Get dressed immediately!" The nudists silently followed the military boat, and the poor officer periodically wiped the sweat from his forehead with a handkerchief - the girls came to Fox Bay hoo ... "

Fox Bay: who lives here

Rumors about how pleasant it is to relax in Lisk spread far beyond the borders of Crimea. Every year, hundreds of people come to the bay to see for themselves. People are completely different: hippies, yogis, punks, psychics, psychologists... Here you can meet a biologist who studies rare plants, a punk with a bottle of vodka, or a respectable family who came to relax. Echki-Dag was chosen by rock climbers and active tourists who are not too lazy to spend more than an hour every day going down and up the mountain, for the sake of swimming in the sea. Like many other "cult" places in Crimea, Lisya Bay attracts people with its beauty and meetings with interesting people.

The population of the camp is fluid. Someone is always coming and going. In August, more than a hundred people accumulate. Many travel with families, with children and relatives. Here, in the Fox Bay, they meet old lost acquaintances and make new friends and girlfriends. They constantly go to visit each other (as the inhabitants of Liska themselves say: “Winnie the Pooh is resting!”), In the evenings they sing and play all kinds of musical instruments.

Among the camp there are a number of structures from a combination of reeds and tents, the so-called "Jamaica". Above them even the flag of the mentioned state flutters. This place always sounds reggae and the sound of drums. Other "quarters" of the camp also have their own names: "Zelenka", "Jackalka", "Kuba", "Nyushka", "Piccadil", "Pistachio Grove" and others.

The atmosphere in the camp is friendly and pleasant. The average age of the audience is 20-35 years old. Many come here at the first opportunity and quite sincerely believe that Fox Bay attracts like a magnet. She also has her own website, authored by Little John AKA Evgeny Simokhin.

Fox Bay: how is life here

Tents are everywhere: on the beach, on the hills, in the forest clearings of the neighboring Echki-Dag. There are no problems with a place for tents: there is a lot of it. There is less drinking water: it is available only in springs, on Echki-Dag. There are three springs: upper, lower and forest. From the coast to them 15-20 minutes walk. Therefore, those who are going on vacation to Fox Bay are always advised to stock up on water containers, counting them at least 10 liters per person per day.

The problem with firewood is solved much worse than with water. The slopes around Fox Bay sunbathe naked - just like its inhabitants. Partially, the surroundings of the bay are "undressed" precisely through the fault of tourists. Small stocks of dry firewood accumulated during the winter completely disappear by the beginning of July. Therefore, it is necessary to take a primus.

The problem with the toilet and garbage disposal has been solved, unfortunately, traditionally, that is, in no way. Those who come to Lisya Bay at the beginning of the season have a certain advantage in terms of hygiene and cleanliness. Those who arrived in August fully experience the cultural level of their predecessors, some of whom differ from Pithecanthropes only in the presence of a mobile phone.

Despite the fact that most of the inhabitants of the bay come here to take a break from "civilization", it does not disappear anywhere. On the shore of Lisya Bay, tent-type cafes with a standard “kiosk” set have already firmly established themselves: beer, kebabs, pasties ... Everything is prepared right at the entrance, no one observes elementary sanitary conditions. Almost every such cafe-shed is equipped with karaoke, and the noise of the sea surf is often drowned out by someone's attempts to portray themselves as a pop star. Barbecue smoke and karaoke cacophony are unlikely to add positive impressions of Lisya Bay. Some people like it, some don't. But in any case, you need to come to Lisya Bay for at least a day - in order to see this place famous throughout the former USSR with your own eyes and form your own opinion about it.

To the south-west of Kurortny lies Lisya Bay. This is a smoothly curved strip of coast, stretching for almost 5 kilometers. The relief of the coast here is uneven, with significant elevation changes. The wide coast is covered with gray sand, both in water and on land.

Lisya Bay or Liska, as it is often affectionately called, is a place for wild recreation. There are no boarding houses or hotels nearby, but the number of his admirers is not decreasing. Every year, the fox attracts hundreds of representatives of various subcultures: hippies, rastamans, nudists, and other informals. At the peak of the season, a real tent city unfolds on the shore of the bay, and the sounds of the guitar and cheerful laughter do not subside until dawn. Fox Bay - a state of mind!

You can get here from the village of Kurortnoye in half an hour along the path along the sea, past cape crab and "watermelon". There are two more walking routes from Shchebetovka to Lisya in the mountains and from Shchebetovskoye Lake (Bryntsevsky Stavok). In good weather, you can get there by car, the road goes along the unfinished sewage treatment plant, through vineyards and mountain serpentine. The main thing is not to pass the turn to the left (exit from the asphalt) if you move towards Shchebetovka.

Fox bay, wild beach, photo (Crimea)

Echki-Dag

The trail from Shchebetovka to Liska

Liska is located at the foot of the Echki-Dag mountain range, the highest in the vicinity of the bay. The outlines of the ridge are recognizable from any point: these are three peaks, “three brothers”, as they were called by the people. Echki-Dag - the meaning in the Turkic languages ​​\u200b\u200bof "goat mountain". One of the most interesting places of the entire mountain range - "Ear of the Earth". This is a deep karst cave on the eastern slope of the Kokush-Kaya peak, which is a narrow, almost sheer tunnel 132 meters deep. There is a legend that this cave leads to the very center of the Earth. There are also springs on Echki-Dag, after a breathtaking ascent, you can always refresh yourself on one of them.
From Mount Echki-Dag, a magnificent view of the village of Kurortnoye and the extinct volcano KaraDag opens up.

Fox Bay (Crimea) on the map

Kinogorodok (Crimea)

Another interesting place in the vicinity of the bay is the film town. This is a real Oriental-style village built by the Yalta film studio in 2004 for the filming of the film " Live fish". The movie was never made, but the scenery remained. They gradually fall into disrepair, but attract vacationers from Liska. Youth festivals are often held here, informal companies gather, although entry is officially prohibited here.

Looking through last year's nautical charts, I discovered that the story about our trip to Lisya Bay remained unpublished.

So, Crimea, Fox Bay. This small bay is located between the Kara-Dag mountain range and Cape Meganom. Probably the most famous in the Crimea (and not only in the Crimea, but on the territory of the entire former USSR) is a resting place for those who like to sunbathe naked, hippies, punks, nihilists and other informals. The Lisya Bay is the largest nudist beach in Crimea, the length of the coast is almost 5 kilometers. Romance, in short!

The desire to get to Lisya Bay arose a few years ago (although not with me), but it took a long time to realize this desire. In September last year, we rested in Ordzhonikidze (a small resort village near the city of Feodosia), and our friends were just in Lisya Bay. Once we agreed, met in Koktebel, then all together went to visit us, in Ordzho, and the next morning, yielding to persuasion, we went to Lisya Bay - to observe the life and life of naked tent savages.

To get from Ordzhonikidze to Fox Bay, you need to: take a minibus or bus to Koktebel - you wait half an hour to leave, another twenty minutes you shake along a dusty road among mountains and hills; in Koktebel, transfer to another regular transport heading to Kurortnoye (another twenty to thirty minutes) - you need to get off in the center of the village, before reaching the biological station; from the center of the village to get to the sea - also about twenty minutes; and, finally, the last spurt - along the coast in a westerly direction, leaving behind Kara-Dag and Kurortnoye, to Liska - about an hour on the way, if you walk at an average pace (if you are not in a hurry, then the walk will take all one and a half, or even two hours).

Here is the village of Kurortnoye, the center of the settlement:

Yes, the view of the village is completely non-resort, but every summer in Kurortnoye (opps, pun), however, thousands and thousands of vacationers come. The sea is blue and warm, the mountains are beautiful and high, wonderful bays with very clear water and small cozy beaches - I also want to go there, again.

Among the ruins, unfinished, long-term construction and rebuilding, there are occasionally mansions, rooms in which are rented out to those who wish to spend some time in Kurortny. By the way, the prices for decent housing in these small and outwardly shabby villages of the southeastern Crimea (Koktebel, Ordzhonikidze, Kurortnoye, Shchebetovka, Primorsky, etc.) are quite comparable with those in Yalta. That is, good housing is expensive, and sometimes very expensive.

We looked back, and behind - the beach of the village of Kurortnoye, and immediately behind the extinct volcano Kara-Dag - Koktebel, from which we recently arrived:

We move along the sea coast. The relief of the area is clay hills and mounds, indented with paths and paths.

I really liked this stone - where did such a huge boulder come from?

By the way, almost the entire coastline is strewn with large stones on the road from Kurortny to Lisya Bay. Cape Meganom is visible ahead (by the way, the Meganom peninsula is one of the driest places in Crimea), the climate there is like in a desert.

We walked a couple of kilometers and again cast a glance back - Kara-Dag looks like some kind of monster that lowered its muzzle into the sea:

The area is practically deserted, only our small company is moving in the direction of Lisya Bay. Again large stones that fell from the sky:

representatives of the local fauna. These are not seagulls, they are some strange birds that look a bit like ducks. Although, perhaps, these are not ducks, but completely different animals:

Fox Bay is already visible in the distance:

Cape Meganom is huge:

A stone that recently fell on the path blocked the road with a kind of gate:

You pass through these gates, and here it is, the goal of the journey - Fox Bay:

Fox Bay met with a mess and a huge amount of garbage. The stories of local old-timers that in the season, in the summer (let me remind you, we were in Lisk in early September, when there were almost no vacationers left) garbage on the coast should have reassured us many times more, probably. But they didn't calm down. Acquaintance with Lisya Bay did not begin with too pleasant things.

Mattress area. This is how the local ancient natives contemptuously call those who come to Liska by car for the weekend - they say, they came to swim on mattresses. By the way, the entire Fox Bay is divided into such conditional areas: Nyushka, Zelenka, Jamaica, Cuba, Uganda, Piccadilly, Film Town, etc.

“Zelyonka” is, apparently, because some shrubs and trees grow in this part of the bay, and even grass breaks through the clay soil.

In a self-made "wine shop" they sell wine for bottling, allegedly licensed, produced by the Koktebel plant. The price is exorbitant compared to the prices in the nearest villages. But the local savages take it, there is nowhere to go, because the nearest civilization is an hour's walk over very rough terrain.

Something like that:

We are moving in depth. It's hot, dusty, you want beer and swim.

Another almost standard still life from Fox Bay. Sad.

Do you see, in the distance, Kara-Dag sparkles with teeth? We are quite far away from Kurortny.

There are even some signs of civilization in the center of Liska:

Shop - beer, ice cream, drinks, cigarettes. Prices, as I said, are high - but there is no choice. The store, by the way, has electricity from diesel generator, and natives often come here to recharge their mobile phones and even laptops. Aborigines, of course, are the real ones, but many use the achievements of progress.

A typical picture from Fox Bay, if you look towards the sea:

And we are heading to the planet Plyuk towards Zelenka, to the place of residence of the comrades who invited us to visit:

This is how people live in Lisk.

Tent, sleeping bags, homemade hearth, daily trips to the mountains for firewood and water. Late rise, breakfast, sea-sea-sea, evening and night gatherings or trips to visit, and morning again.

Someone even brought a pet with them:

People in Fox Bay are very different. As I understand it, most of those who rest here are distinguished by non-standard thinking and behavior. This does not mean that these people are inadequate, on the contrary, they are quite adequate, very nice and realistically assess what is happening around.

Those who came to Liska solely for the purpose of “breaking away” (using one of the many methods provided, or even several at once) are, for the most part, also adequate. Well, or almost adequate.

At the tents, we did not linger for a long time, but went to the beach. We swam, sunbathed, and went for a beer to the nearest "bar". Bar is a very strong word. A huge tent, inside which is a very conditional "bar counter" made from improvised materials; homemade tables and benches - you can sit in the shade of the tent and even drink cold beer from a refrigerator powered by diesel.

Entering the bar, we immediately saw a girl standing on a table located to the left of the entrance. Of the clothes on the girl was only one red sock, worn on her left leg. The girl was young and very beautiful. She stood on the table, in a red sock, with a mop in her hands. I dipped a mop with a rag into a bucket of water (the bucket stood on a bench by the table) and washed the table on which I stood with this mop. She did it with great concentration and dedication.

The guy who was at the makeshift bar counter saw the girl and started shouting: “What are you doing? Stop bullshitting, get off the table and start cleaning” - well, something like that. The girl sent the guy, using profanity, and continued to crawl the mop on the table. The guy in response said something much tougher, and the girl threw the mop, sat down with her beautiful naked booty on the table, and put her feet in a bucket of water. She sat there and was sad.

A few minutes later, another girl turned to her (as I understood, an acquaintance) and asked some question: either she was joking, or she sympathized. And suddenly, out of nowhere (and where could he come from? the girl was wearing only one sock!) our heroine had a knife in her hands, which she began to swing, singing something like “how many I killed, how many I cut, how many souls I ruined it!" Well, in that spirit. The girl walked between the tables for some time with an urkagan gait, telling something about her hard life, and gradually calmed down, sat down next to the bucket and, it seemed to me, fell asleep.

Yes, of course, there are people in Lisk whose behavior can cause bewilderment among unprepared observers (like us, for example). But local natives do not pay much attention to such shows. People who are free in their actions gather in Fox Bay, and, moreover, the style of their behavior is determined by the environment. And the situation is such that such a performance is, in principle, a common thing, and even welcomed. It's fun, isn't it? You can laugh. Or sympathize.

Returned from the bar Coast. By the way, there are very few people. We swam, rolled on the warm sand. We decided to go somewhere to eat. You can have a bite to eat in one of several conditional catering establishments as self-made as the “bar”, such “chalabuds” assembled from wood, cardboard and the remains of other once industrial goods. It looks like a cafe. The inside of the cafe looks like this:

On a stone wall hangs a long-faded painting depicting the leader of the world proletariat:

By the way, Lenin, along with Che Guevara and Bob Marley, are very popular characters among the inhabitants of Fox Bay.

Our table was on the second floor of the "cafe", and we climbed up these stone steps:

From our top shelf, it is very interesting to look at what is happening below:

Ethnographic style of the "cafe" decoration:

After sitting in the "restaurant" for a while, we were going home. We bought beer and some water, put backpacks on our shoulders and set off on the way back, towards Kurortny. We spent only half a day in Fox Bay, but we had enough impressions.

Impressions are twofold. I liked Lisk, and I would like to stay there for a longer time - two or three days, for example. But no more. I probably couldn't take it anymore.

There are many interesting things in Lisk and its surroundings that we did not have time to see and feel. Film town, where many famous films were filmed. mountain range Echki-Dag, which I would like to climb and admire the sea from a height. The cave "Ear of the Earth", very deep and mysterious. Well, and most importantly - interesting people some of which I am already familiar with.

Goodbye, Fox Bay. Perhaps we'll see each other again.

Drunken naked Santa Claus, setting fire to the Christmas tree and the barbaric game "Suck the Mattress!" - so noted New Year in Fox Bay. But as soon as I missed it, having left to watch Feodosia - who knew that the natives would be impatient to celebrate the New Year on August 6th?

Disclaimer!
This post is contraindicated for aesthetes and champions of morality (there are beggars and nudity and there is no condemnation of all this), fappers (because all nudity was taken from afar, from the back or side, sometimes with faces framed in a graphic editor), as well as Crimean Guru (because I am in such places in general for the first time and I do not pretend to any truth). In addition, I apologize for the volume - apart from the "final" posts, I have never posted more than 60 photos and will try not to do so in the future.

To begin with, instead of an epigraph - an anecdote:
Two old-school bearded hippies are sitting, smoking a joint one for two and remembering the past:
- Buddy, do you remember the Beatles? How it all began?
- Oh, yes, yes, "Beatles", "Beatles"!
- Buddy, do you remember Pink Floyd? Remember the Wall?
-Oh, yes-yes-yes, "Pink Floyd", "Pink Floyd"!
-Do you remember "Deep People"?
- Oh, of course, "Deep Purple", "Deep Purple"!
- Do you remember, - he drops the burnt part of the jamb by his collar, - hey, buddy, knock down the ashes!
-Ah, yes, yes, "People's Bay", "People's Bay"!
I missed the hippie era. The time of Russian rock and then only caught by the tail. Never hippo, never smoked joints, never lived on flats. But somewhere, very, very deep down, I have my share of hippieness. I really liked this name: "People's Bay" - that is, the Bay of People, and I have been dreaming of finding one for several years. In the summer of 2013, when there were no signs of trouble, I planned to go to Southern Ukraine in the summer of 2014 , to friends for a couple of days in Zaporozhye, which I once examined and showed not too detailed; then to Melitopol and to Kamennaya Mogila; to Perekop, to the Turkish Wall and the "Crimean Titan", and through the steppe Crimea and Simferopol move to Feodosia, and from there - to some kind of Bay of People, since there are a lot of them on the peninsula. Well, home - through Kerch and Krasnodar ... As a result, life decreed otherwise, but, even without the steppes of Northern Taurida, it was a success. I asked many analogs, but they couldn’t explain anything intelligible to me.Someone said that it was a good alternative, but I found its secluded coves almost deserted.They said about Meganom - that the people there are more intelligent and don’t blow grass, but it’s hard to get there, no water, and this year "only 3 fell it's worth it." They scared a lot about Lisya Bay - which is defiled (in the literal sense of the word), and mostly not the most decent of the nefers inhabit it, and the majors appeared and steal from tents ... In general, in the nearest village I rented a cage for 100 rubles and went to Fox Bay. They say that this year it is abnormally sparsely populated, in general, the Koktebel region suffered especially hard that summer - the tourist flow fell about three times (against one and a half times throughout the Crimea). But the people in Crimea are not few this year, but usually too many, and maybe that's why all the fears were not justified. In Fox Bay, I found my personal little paradise.

If you sit facing the sea, on the left hand it grins with teeth and shimmers with shadows in the gorges of Karadag, because of which Toprak-Kaya timidly looks out, really changing color depending on the time of day. Behind Karadag - Koktbel, where I never went on this trip, and in front of Karadag there is also the village of Kurortnoye (Tatar Otuz, and in everyday life, along the final Feodosia PAZik, Biostation), whose houses can be seen behind Crab Cape, similar from afar to a drinker from the sea fox, which allegedly gave the name of the bay. To the right, in the distance, an unshakable bulk lies Meganom, tightly covered by the desert, at its base the village of Coastal, which is part of the Sunny Valley glorious for its wine - in Lisya Bay they call it Solidol and they prefer to walk here either in a group or with some means of self-defense. I walked from both sides, and to say frankly - Resort and more pleasant, and closer.

Even if the surrounding beaches are completely covered with this Crimean pebble, on which you can’t lie down normally and it hurts to walk, then in Fox Bay there is large sticky sand. Sand - of course, it is packed everywhere, but it is soft to lie on it and it is easy to walk on it. True, only under water near the beach is a strip of cobblestones that are almost impossible to overcome without being knocked down by another wave. It is difficult to drive to Lisya, and the slopes above it are composed of a completely Turkestan-looking striped clay:

As already mentioned, I arrived in Kurortnoye by bus from Simferopol and rented a room there. 120 rubles is a little more expensive than the Russian Railways locker room (or maybe even cheaper now, mln) and, in principle, the second cheapest place where I have ever spent the night - the first was the Collective Farmer's House in Kazan in 2002, where a double room cost 80 rubles. Why a room? Well, I didn’t know what was waiting for me in Lisk, I was afraid that I wouldn’t like it radically, I was afraid of thieves ... in general, in the end it turned out that I lived in two places, spending the night in Kurortny not every night, but keeping my things. Half of the rooms were occupied by refugees from the Donbass, the other half - by a large Ukrainian family in three generations from Zhytomyr, who got along well with each other. From the house in Kurortny to Lisya Bay, the journey took half an hour along the coast, and I went there in slippers, without a camera, without documents, even without a mobile phone, with several hundred-dollar bills in the pocket of my shorts. Path through the scree:

Lisya Bay has a very extensive “entrance”, where people with hair and dreadlocks are already walking, someone is already swimming naked, but the shore is stone, there are no tents yet and sometimes obviously respectable vacationers from Kurortny come in. They add color and boulders in the sea, on another of which, like a mermaid, a naked maiden may well sit. On one of the screes there is a "gate" of Lisya Bay, for the convenience of climbing someone put a tire near them:

View from Crab Cape. In the upper right corner, the peak of Echki-Dag (670m), closing the bay from the Koktbel-Sudak highway:

View of the bay ... all these shots were taken on the last day of my stay, when I went to Sudak, from there to Solidol, and since it was an educational outing, I came to the bay with everything that I usually wear, including a camera. On the right you can see a white and blue tent and a dark green canopy - there I ended up "registered". In general, on the first day I came here restless, did not know anyone, wandered aimlessly back and forth, but somehow irrationally noticed a couple of tents. On the way back to Kurortnoye, I somehow got into a conversation with a middle-aged but charismatic woman, around whom an extremely fast girl of about 10 was constantly rushing around. They were from Dnepropetrovsk, their mother's name was Natalya, the daughter was Dara, but I don’t remember what they were talking about then spoke. The next day, I discovered that they live in just one of those tents that I noticed, and their tent, together with a couple of neighboring ones, made up Little Dnepropetrovsk, where a canopy played the role of the Dnieper embankment. The other inhabitants were very friendly informals a little older than me, who spent most of the day banging on tom-toms, completely disconnecting from reality, and sometimes drinking tea, and I came to them just at the time of tea drinking. I asked Natalya if it was possible to land, and one of the informals immediately silently handed me a bowl of tea .... and if at first I had the idea of ​​​​making a few acquaintances in Lisk and standing with one or the other, in the end I I got along with these people so well that I didn’t feel like going anywhere else. I had interesting conversations with Natalia about everything from health to politics, and Dara became friends with me almost immediately. She turned out to be an amazingly talented musician, in her incomplete 10 years she played the guitar in a way that few adults can do (but capricious - give her a violin only with nylon strings), and I think we will see her on TV in 10 years, all the makings there is - talent, activity and a thirst for attention (she could not sit still for a second, and played on the strings on the nerves of those around her) and truly acting charisma - when you know how to get everyone so that at the same time they still adore you. I also made friends with other people. In general, an important property of Liska: "residence requirement" - if on the first day they looked askance at me, and when I sat down next to some company, usually they were clearly not happy with me, then in recent days it was impossible to walk along the beach to not to exchange a few words with someone.

At the beginning of the bay - painted stones:

Fox Bay has its own internal geography, and slightly different in different parties - but only slightly ... The first location along the way is Jackalka, it's not quite Fox Bay. Its peculiarity is that you can drive up to it by car, so there are mostly "majors" there. If in other locations you go wherever you want and communicate with the first person you meet, then here it’s quite possible to run into the normal in the outside world “Why are you walking around here? Walking over there, and here we are standing!”. I usually tried to get over the jackal as quickly as possible, and I didn’t even make good shots on it. I remember only the outermost tent, where a family from Donetsk stood: a strongly built peasant, a very beautiful face and naked body, a middle-aged woman and a boy of about 12. I met them, it seems, leaving the bay for the second time, and the conversation with them began and ended each of my subsequent visits. They stood on the outskirts because they were tired of listening to "well-wishers" from Kyiv, Kharkov and Dnepropetrovsk, promising their city an early "liberation from terrorists", they talked a lot about the ideological background of this whole uprising, and in general, when they tell me that "the Donbass no dignity", I remember these people and cease to respect the speaker. But they were no longer standing on the Jackal, but, as it were, on their own. Yes, and my view here is not on the Jackal itself, but on the congress to it, it should also be noted that it is not the easiest:

View from the back. As you can see, contrary to popular belief, not all nudists are here. You can walk naked, but you don't have to. And in the distance - the center of Fox Bay, the location of Piccadilly, or simply Shalmans:

A group of shops and cafes, where, in principle, you can even call a taxi (although the prices are clearly for majors - 400 rubles before civilization) grew here, it seems, relatively recently, and they say that it changed Liska very much, before they appeared, it was described to me as a virgin kingdom honest naked planokurs. In stores, prices are a little more expensive than on the mainland, but tolerable, and the Tatars keep trading here, as elsewhere in the Crimea, but some special, slightly unformalized themselves, especially girls. Of the individual points, it is worth mentioning a stall with birch sap (50 rubles for a large glass) and a tandoor with delicious cakes:

Fruits, fish, all sorts of chips, crackers, snickers, cola, lemonade, mineral water and house wine. Probably stupid, but I didn't care. Boiled corn, churchkhela and other Crimean classics of the genre:

Fruit. The local "trick" is mamardyk, or "Indian pomegranate", these orange pods. More correctly, as explained in the comments, momordica, and by origin it is rather even an "Indian cucumber". From the inside, the truth looks like a pomegranate with small, harsh berries - but the berries are firstly sweet, and secondly, pitted. Watermelons are cheaper than in Moscow, but fabulously expensive by Crimean standards. In general, apart from momordik, I bought here only lemonade and mineral water.

Several shamans have their own face. Chief among them and apparently the first - "Piccadilly". According to the bartender, it was built and designed by her husband a few years ago. Dastarkhans, popular in the Crimea, obviously "brought" by the Tatars from the Uzbek exile, stand here right above the sea - go, in a storm a wave sweeps into the hall:

The food here is VERY tasty and inexpensive - apparently, the fact that you do not have to pay rent affects (but I think there is a "roof"). Here's lunch: rapani, yantyh with feta cheese (it's like a cheburek, but dry and tastier), a waffle tube and a teapot of hibiscus, from which some kind of sweet nausea is piling up ...

The design is simple, sloppy and generally tasteful:

In addition to the main hall, there is also a secret loggia, where if you hang your legs - with good excitement, they will be licked by water.

Shalmany is the only place in Lisk where it is not customary to go naked. If on the street between them to see naked people still happens rarely, rarely, then inside - almost never. Well, except that it’s very good for someone, and even then after 10-15 minutes the owner of this body woke up and threw on a dress.

Shalman opposite, stuck right to the clay cliff, is called "Baghdad", and there is almost no food here - but here they smoke hookah, drink, dance and rage in the evenings. His interior is the wildest:

Rastaman songs are constantly played inside. There was also a sad, but also rastaman style song about a soldier:
I am a soldier, I am a premature child of war
I am a soldier of the army of the god of a forgotten country,
I'm a hero... just tell me-oh-oh-oh
What novel?! - from which we can conclude that it is better to be a rastaman than a soldier.
But the best song I heard there is definitely "". Let me quote it in its entirety:

Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good

Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good
Amphetamines will not bring to good

In principle, I have never had a craving for drugs, but if she suddenly wakes up, it will definitely not be amphetamines, because after one or two listening to this song out of the corner of my ear, I already have a subconscious associative link: if amphetamines, then they won’t bring you to good . And somehow, on the beach, strong guys with angry faces and a dog on a leash passed us - the police in civilian clothes periodically make a detour. It seems that they turn a blind eye to planokours, and they fight hard drugs to the best of their ability, but by the way, are they here, hard drugs? I did not see any signs of their use.

The most severe shalman stands a little aside and is called "At Uncle Misha's". They eat vodka, sip beer and swear:

Uncle Misha himself. Alas, the fly swatter with a smiley in his hand did not get into the frame:

He is also the Lord of the Toilets - for 20 rubles in his shawl they give the key to these wonderful cabins, but there is no soap and paper:

In the evening it’s good in shawls, and Natalya and Dara and I dropped in a couple of times at the carbon monoxide parties in Baghdad, while in Piccadilly I preferred to dine in the afternoon, even before arriving in Lisya Buhut, having switched to an unusual diet for myself - to eat a hearty meal once a day:

"Piccadilly", "Baghdad" and others against the backdrop of Karadag. By the way, it must be taken into account that sometimes they close for half a day or a day for cleaning and receiving goods, but I don’t remember if they work at night:

The next location (with a couple more shamans) is Goa. Due to its proximity to the center, it is considered the most carbon monoxide, drunken and stoned people come across here most often. But as you can see, there are children here, and moreover, it’s normal here, it’s just that nobody bothers anyone:

Hey, do you like taking pictures of children?
-What?
Who are you filming, paparazzi?
-What if a person with a camera came to the beach, then he is already a pervert right away?
- No, well, anything can happen! I thought you were taking pictures of children...
-No, that sign over there... It's my first time here, I just go and take pictures of different goodies. I don't take pictures of naked people, at least up close and from the face. If you want, I can show pictures.
-No, no, no, no! I can already see that you are normal! And you know, anything can happen. Here they posted me naked on the Internet, and my wife, more than once. And recently, there was a general frenzy - filmmakers came, filmed a report that homeless people were settling on deserted beaches in Crimea!
In general, photographers in Lisk, of course, are not liked. They said that some voyeur was recently caught and beaten well. However, walking with a camera is not forbidden, here it is a question of trust. Only thieves are worse than voyeurs for locals - they told how some thief was not only beaten, but they also tattooed the word "rat" on his forehead. And I think that all this happened precisely in Goa - it is the capital here, a place of movement, trash and intoxication. The most colorful personalities are sitting here, the most picturesque tents and even houses are standing, the people are always crowded. Also pay attention to the Adreevsky flag - many flags are hung on their tents here, most often Ukrainians, of course, I saw Belarusian flags a couple of times (and not "chase"), but I didn’t see Russian ones, except for this Andreevsky one:

Jamaica stretches further - this, I would say, "Fox Bay by default." A long narrow strip under the cliffs, where there is nothing - only a tent and the sea. Someone is constantly walking by, but here - the very balance: not noisy and not drunk, like in Goa, but not family like in Cuba. Actually, Little Dnepropetrovsk was located in Jamaica. Although I bought a tent for the trip, in the end I never used it - I slept in a sleeping bag right under the stars, three meters from the surf line, and when the wind blew, I was covered with sand.

Next - Cuba, starting with a small ravine. The real Cuba we have is famous for, as you know, medicine. Here, too, there are mostly mothers with small children, and earlier, they say, they regularly came here to give birth. Here, the differences from Jamaica are disadvantageous in the other direction - people value personal space and worry about their children. However, naked over dressed prevail here as nowhere else in Lisk.

There is a cross made of thin sticks. In the ravine there are several capital houses made of ethnographic stone. And toilets on natural "balconies", from where only the head sticks out and overlooks the sea and the beach:

I must say, the role of free toilets in Lisk is played by ravines, but I never went there.

Further along the shore is a narrow cofferdam, where on the very first day I badly hurt my leg on a stone, so I limped until the end of the trip and for some more time in Moscow. There is the Siderite Cape, and it is not entirely clear how the locations Nyushka, Eden and Uganda are related to each other. As I understand it, the last one is below, the first one is on a hill, and Eden is in the deepening of the coast, where there are trees and there are no mosquitoes or sand.

They say that in Fox Bay there are some famous people, they mentioned to me either Arefieva, or Aguzarova, or both. And for example, Irina Antsiferova, whose song "Nudist Beach" Wikimapia recommends as an exhaustive fear of the Fox Bay, was my literature teacher ... in secret I hoped to somehow accidentally meet her here.
Someone else's flag:

Hut on the outskirts. I went here on the first day, a very sincere man from Kharkov lives here, I promised him to come back some other time, but I never did:

What was filmed here somewhere in 2004, no one really knows, either different films, or some unreleased tape, or maybe it’s not a movie town at all? Be that as it may, it is gradually collapsing and now there are not many hundred of the original left:

There is at least one more location - Zelenka. It is not located by the sea, but on the slope of Echkidag up from Shalmany, and opens its hill, which the locals, of course, called Siska (maybe there are other names, but I have not heard them). On Echkidag, continuing the anatomy, respectively, there is a cave of the Ear of the Earth:

Zelenka is quite extensive, it has its own sub-locations, for example Three Oaks, and there is no wind and sand, but there are mosquitoes and far from the sea (in the sense of more than 3 steps). Natalya and Dara had friends there, and we often went there, especially on Zelenka it’s beautiful at night, when you make your way through the bushes with a headlamp, seeing lights behind the branches, and suddenly you come across a huge blue-and-yellow flag because of the turn ... Although local politicization is exhausted by flags. There are negligible conversations about politics, and those that were - without conflicts. Friends from Mariupol, from the category "for Russia, but against the DPR", came to the same Natalya, everyone got along well and understood each other. And yes, I really met people mainly from Ukraine, from large cities east of Kyiv. The Russians also met, but much less often - for example, a couple from Voronezh stood nearby, somehow dropped in on a visit beautiful girl from St. Petersburg, Muscovites dined nearby in shawls, somehow got into a conversation with a stop-maker from Tyumen, who did not recognize me by sight, but when mentioning my other travels, he immediately remembered: "So you are Varandey ?!" I saw Belarusians here too, and according to rumors, guys from Kazakhstan were standing somewhere ... In general, there is a place for everyone here.

And through Zelenka runs the road to the cult place of the Lisya Bay - to the Spring. He is alone and quite high in the mountains, they usually go there at dawn - not for ritual purposes, but for fear of the heat. There is nowhere else to get water here, only bottled and not quite cheap in shamans - in fact, I bought the latter for drinking, but cooking buckwheat on it is no longer the case. The climb, to put it bluntly, is rather boring, but horses graze on the slopes:

The spring itself is high, and at the last meters I suddenly felt prettier, my eyes darkened, and the man who was nearby immediately rushed to save me, pushing the "membrane" between the thumb and forefinger almost to the blood - but either from pain, or True, from the impact on the point, I came to my senses. For some reason, it was in the Crimea that it was especially difficult for me to climb ... and in general, I didn’t like going to the spring. And here it serves as something like a club, where people, resting after getting up and waiting in line for the coveted stream, communicate. Here came some Natalya's acquaintances with a huge dog; here the woman undressed and, moving a little away, made an ice basket chellenge, squealing and shouting "For world peace!". If you already draw water - then a full backpack of bottles:

This trickle waters the entire Fox Bay:

In the course of the play, I have already spoken about the people of Fox Bay more than once ... Now I will try and show it. At the same time, I thought for a long time about the moral and ethical side, am I violating someone's privacy? I photographed naked people from the back, repainted their hair and all sorts of hairpin bags in Photoshop, in general, the victims themselves might recognize themselves, but others are unlikely, except perhaps those who hung out with them here, and therefore nothing will not see anything new. And the people here are colorful, especially in Goa and Piccadilly:

Liskin old-timers. "The soul of the Fox Bay" I remember two girls on the right - I forgot what I call the one in the sarafan, but the second one, which is on all three frames - Martha. She is always slightly drunk (but I have never seen her very drunk), and as cocky as she is kind.

Here in her hands is a wreath with a nail to pierce the Third Eye - weddings are a separate local "trick", although according to Natalya, now they are no longer the same, more often vulgar than colorful. From the same series and the New Year without a clear date - but in principle, well, Santa Claus needs to rest somewhere, so why not here?

Martha was usually supplemented by Elektronik - the dearest comrade, also always drunk, and sometimes very drunk - in "Baghdad" he somehow foolishly shook the hookah. When asked, "Where are you from?", they answered "From here!". At the same time, although they are regulars and old-timers, neither Electronics nor Marta has ever seen in a nudist outfit.

Boy in embroidered shirt:

Hippies, yogis, Zen Buddhists, Hare Krishnas, shamans .... who can figure them out.

Here comes the biker:

A very handsome grandfather in Goa, a local lion - his parking lot is the most party place there:

The boy plays the badlam - a Turkish musical instrument with two strings, from the same series as all these dombras and komuzes. The black-haired girl was with us in the Sevastopol House for All - a significant part of its inhabitants either came from Lisya Bay or left for Lisya Bay (according to the hitchhiking tradition, partly dispersed somewhere along the road):

Basically, the inhabitants of foxes look something like this. One of the busiest parking lots near Nyushka:

As for nudism ... In fact, you stop paying attention to it very quickly. Naked from dressed differs no more than two dressed differently, and I, lying on the bank, often did not notice myself whether there was something on me or nothing. At the same time, a certain ethics is observed: go in any form, but I have never seen even tightly hugging couples, not to mention something more frank - all my personal life is in tents ...

The atmosphere here is very healthy, the complete absence of any lust. An unthinkable plot on an ordinary nudist beach is a dressed guy and a naked maiden.

In general, life goes on as usual. Someone is bathing a horse, and a couple of times dolphins came to the bay, showed their fins from the waves literally fifty meters from me:

Someone kneaded clay and smeared it with it. By the way, she is very good at washing her hair, and in principle, I somehow began to like the Black Sea water - salty enough to wash, but not so much that later I had to wash off the crystals:

People are constantly coming and going. According to Natalia, there have never been two identical seasons in Lisk - the atmosphere in it is always a little different:

In addition to water, people collect firewood:

Many are engaged in creativity - or paint pebbles:

Or they make something out of clay, and then they often sell it:

But they called the spirit of fire:

At one time, Estonian drunks told me a good motto: "Live yourself and don't bother others!" It is strange that I was not told it here.
The Bay of People means that there are all people here, and it is not necessary to expose the body in order to take off one's mental clothes - profession, status, nationality, political views, religion and age ... The most wonderful feeling that exists here: everyone can be themselves - but at the same time in public. And so to lie under the sound of tam-tam and the sound of the surf under the scorching sun, sometimes getting up and flopping into a cool wave three steps away from you - it seems you can do it forever. And then fall asleep under the huge Crimean stars, and waking up to see the dawn:

Most of all in Crimea, it is precisely this feeling of eternal youth that attracts ...

I will return here. If there is such an opportunity...

To Cape Kokushkin and Mount Ashlamalik rising above it, including the slopes of Echkidag and the adjacent part of the Black Sea area; a bay between the Karadag and Meganom mountain ranges.

This place (near the villages of Solnechnaya Dolina and Kurortnoye) has a sand and pebble beach that stretches for more than a kilometer and is especially loved by nudists, hippies and other informals. The length of the Lisya Bay coast is approximately 4–5 kilometers (1200 ha, including 140 ha water areas; Shchebetovka, Feodosiya City Council). A peaceful place far from civilization will pull you here again and again.

origin of name

There are two versions why the bay is called Lisya. First, foxes formerly abounded in its vicinity. Second: here, in the local waters, there is still a kind of stingray called sea fox. The fish is very nutritious and practically waste-free - there are no bones, only cartilage, and if you cook fish soup from a stingray, there will be no leftovers. But local old-timers assure that before the bay was called "Lysa" because of the exposed coastal ledges towering above it.

Description

The protected coast has a good pebble-gravel, wide (up to 30 m) by the beach at the foot of the ledge of the Tauride Formation of mudstones and siltstones. In the relief of the slope, numerous terraces, hollows, ravines and balconies are observed, formed by solid siderite layers, blocks of which periodically roll down the slope and are displaced by landslides and small streams that dry up in summer. At Cape Kokushkin in the sea, such blocks form a real "archipelago" that protects the cape from abrasion.

The slopes of the coast are almost deforested, sparse shiblyak and steppe vegetation dominates. On the very shore of the Lisya Bay, the last few dozen individuals of the Red Book saltpeter Schober have been preserved, which are threatened with complete destruction by sea abrasion. The drupes of this shrub with a strange sweet taste turn out to be an unexpected delicacy for visitors to these places. Among the algoflora, the red alga Phylloflora pseudohorn prevails (Red Book of the Black Sea). It is an indicator of the exceptional purity of the water area. In the animal population of the coast there are such rare species: from birds - the peregrine falcon, from reptiles - the leopard snake.

The natural complex of the Lisya Bay with the adjacent massif of Echkidaga is a favorite object for ecological tourism and field training practices for students of geography, geologists and biologists. An unusually picturesque perspective of the Karadag mountain range opens from here.

In the area of ​​Mount Echki-Dag there are two sources ("Upper source" and "Lower source"), the famous "Ear of the Earth" - a cave more than a hundred meters deep. In addition, one of the features of the Lisya Bay is its underdevelopment: there are no buildings in the vicinity, only tents, of which there are more and more every year. The roads are only dirt roads.

Development of Fox Bay

Lisya Bay - the most famous informal beach of Crimea. The history of the development of Lisya Bay (lovingly called "Liska") began in the second half of the 20th century, when free-thinking citizens of the USSR began to come here on their summer vacations. Then these places were generally uninhabited: they were considered a forbidden border zone, and tourists who wanted to break away from this world were mercilessly driven by people in green caps. Since the 80s, this has become easier. We walked here from the village of Kurortnoye, lived in a tent city, sunbathed naked and enjoyed freedom. And in the evenings, sitting by the fires on the seashore, they sang songs with a guitar and, not being afraid to be heard, discussed the current system.

Gradually, a unique local subculture began to form here, reaching its peak in the 1980s-1990s. Lisya Bay became a kind of Soviet Woodstock, where, under the free southern sun, the domestic hippie movement and alternative music were born. At one time there were hundreds of musicians, many of whom are forever inscribed in the history of our rock, for example, Viktor Tsoi, Andrey Makarevich, Zhanna Aguzarova. With the sunset in Lisk, the most active part of life begins - people gather around the fires with guitars, drums, jew's harps, pipes, maracas and God knows what else. The music is getting louder, the port wine is being drunk more and more often, the lights of the fire show are burning brighter, the smell of weed is getting stronger. Sometimes such spontaneous concerts attract hundreds of spectators and run until dawn. In 2008, Lisk hosted the White Shaman Music Festival, a grandiose for this place, which moved closer to Meganom in 2009.

Recently, the spirit of Liska began to change - after all, popularity and progress do not always bring the best gifts. Entrepreneurial merchants have opened here, though very primitive, but cafes, they sell drinking water and firewood, annoying local aunts walk along the beach shouting “honey baklava”. Increasingly, you can see here cool jeeps with married couples of "textile workers", instead of hitchhiking nudist hippies. There are a lot of outright punks - constantly drunk, cursing and sometimes stealing.

By the way, the 2007 season in Fox Bay could be the last for its inhabitants. The fact is that one of the largest Ukrainian construction corporations, the TMM company, became interested in luxurious uninhabited spaces. She received a long-term lease of territory 50 ha, that is, the entire bay and the territories adjacent to it. According to the project, hotels, restaurants, a pier for yachts and other benefits of civilization should appear here. The environmental community began to rebel: the territory of Liski is a landscape reserve of local importance.

It is unlikely that environmentalists would have stopped construction, but chance intervened. In March 2008, the mayor of Feodosia, Vladimir Shayderov, died suddenly. And without him, not a single issue was resolved in the region. Construction in the bay has not yet begun.

How to get there?

There are two ways to get to Fox Bay. Cars drive from the turn between Shchebetovka and Kurortny through vineyards, then along a very extreme dusty dirt road, which turns into a complex barrier after rains. Pedestrians usually walk along the seashore from the direction of the village of Kurortnoye (the natives of Liski call it "KyrPyr"). Walk at a leisurely pace for 30-40 minutes.