A hand planer is a planing woodworking tool used by carpenters and joiners. It is used to give the surface of the wood the desired shape with straight lines. With the help of this tool, workpieces are processed to the required parameters, and various carpentry joints are created, such as tenon-groove and quarter sampling.

Planer design

A hand planer is a fairly simple design that consists of a block with a flat sole. It can be made of wood or metal. Handles are installed at its ends. The front is designed for gripping and holding by hand, while the back provides a comfortable grip for pushing movements. Closer to the rear handle of the tool there is a clamp in which a hard steel knife is mounted. The block has a through slot through which the knife extends.

There are both more complex, but easily customizable planer designs, as well as the simplest ones, in which a wooden wedge hammered with a hammer is used as a clamp for a knife. When set correctly, these tools have the same cutting characteristics. The main criteria that are set for planers are the sharpness of the knife and the material of manufacture. The sharpening angle of the blade is adjusted to the specific material that needs to be planed. This is due to the fact that different types of wood have different hardness.

A particularly important criterion is the evenness of the sole. In wooden planers, over time, it is deformed as a result of erasure. In addition, when wet, such a tool may bend, making it unsuitable for further use. Metal pads are much better in this regard, but in most cases they are made of steel, which is susceptible to corrosion. As a result of prolonged disuse of the tool, it becomes covered with a layer of rust that occurs even when in contact with moist air. As a result, workpieces get dirty during work.

A big disadvantage of metal pads is the presence of casting errors. If the sole is made helical, then it is impossible to ensure a perfectly even planing. In this regard, before buying, it is important to carefully evaluate the smoothness and evenness of the surface of the sole, so as not to purchase a bad tool. In the case of wooden planers, the presence of sole defects can be solved by working.

Varieties of planers

It is worth noting that a manual planer, unlike the vast majority of other carpentry tool, has many varieties. The design of each modification is tailored to perform specialized tasks. There is no completely universal design that will allow you to do any job. In total, it divides 2 groups of planes:

• Direct planing.
• Figure planing.

Hand planer

The category of flat planers includes:

• Single.
• Double.
• Sherhebeli.
• Sanders.
• Jointers.
• Tsinubeli.
• Peeling.

Single hand planer designed to level the surface of the wood to obtain an ideal plane. It provides a straight blade with a slightly rounded edge. Due to the absence of sharp corners, there are no grooves at the ends of the working surface of the blade when moving on the workpiece. Such a tool allows you to correct rough processing after a saw or an ax.

Double has a similar design with a single one, but is equipped with an additional knife that breaks chips. It is used for finishing leveling and allows you to achieve a smoother surface, which practically does not need to be rubbed with sandpaper.

Sherhebeli have rounded blades that are set at an angle of 45 degrees to the side of the sole. The oval edge allows planing across the grain. Also, the features of this tool include a fairly wide gap for chip removal, which, depending on the modification, is 3-5 mm. Such a tool is excellent for rough processing. It provides fast chip removal, but the resulting surface will have roughness and notches that require additional processing.

Sanders are planers in which the blade is located at an angle of 50 degrees. Such a tool is equipped with a double blade, as well as a chipbreaker. When removing wood, a very high-quality smooth surface is created, which does not need additional refinement. Sanders are usually used after the workpiece is processed with coarser tools. The task of such planers is to bring them to a perfectly smooth surface.

Jointer is a finishing tool that is used for removing chips on large surfaces. It is characterized by a long block, so it effectively removes the protruding parts of the wood, while bypassing the recesses. In fact, the longer the jointer, the more ideal results can be expected after the job is completed. Jointer is the most common type of planer that can be found in any workshop where professional woodworking is done.

Tsinubeli have a single serrated knife, which, unlike a conventional tool, creates a corrugated surface, usually used for gluing workpieces. By simply preparing two pieces of wood with a cynubel, you can increase the direct contact area when fitting. This increases the bonding strength. From an aesthetic point of view, the furrows created are not particularly attractive, so this tool is not used for other purposes.

Peeling a manual planer is a completely distinctive design from the classic one. Its sole is a metal grater. The tool does not have a knife. It is used exclusively for leveling the ends of drywall. Such a grater allows you to correct the defects that were made when cutting drywall sheets before assembling them into various designs.

Shape planers

This category of tool is intended for creating grooves, as well as processing protrusions and edges. With the development of electric tools and the advent of manual routers such an instrument has faded into the background, but is still found in workshops.

Curly planers include:

• Zenzubel.
• Kantenhobel.
• Dowels.
• Federgubeli.
• Kalevki.
• Falzgebels.
• Shtapy.

Zenzubel is a narrow plane with which you can choose a quarter. Also, due to its narrow dimensions, you can remove the end of the workpieces to get a groove. There are various modifications of this tool, designed to work with wood along and across the fibers. In most cases, this tool is chosen for finishing on an already formed rough surface.

Kantenhobel- This is a fairly compact hand planer, which is used for chamfering. With its help, the ends are processed, giving them a more pleasant surface. This tool has a trapezoidal blade. Usually a kantenhobel has one cutting knife, but there may be two. The cutting edge is located at an angle to the side surface of the sole. With the help of such a tool, finishing is carried out, which requires a minimum correction with a sandpaper or file.

sheet pile- This is a specialized manual planer, with which a groove is selected. The tool is easily recognizable thanks to the double sole. One block serves to guide the trajectory of movement, and with the help of the second, the blade is attached. Such a planer can be adjusted by changing the distance between the two blocks, thereby adjusting the distance to the edge being processed.

Federgubel- This is an end tool with which the longitudinal protrusions of the workpieces are processed. It has a special blade shape with a rise in the center. As a result of processing the end of the board, a longitudinal tenon can be obtained, which is used for gluing with another part, in which a groove of the same size has been previously made.

Mold one of the most unusual planers, which allows for curly processing of workpieces. It is used for the production of cornices, as well as baguettes and decoration doorways. The sole of the peck has a stepped shape, which is transferred to the workpiece in a mirror image.

Falzgebel- this is also a highly specialized planer, with which you can form a strip along the edge of the workpiece, without preliminary marking. The Falzgebel has a similar sole to the kalevka.

Shtap- This is a small hand planer designed for rounding edges. Its blade has a semi-rounded recess. In addition, you can recognize such a tool by its concave sole. This design of the sole and knife allows you to make a rounded shape from the ends.

Planer setting

Planer adjustment consists in adjusting the height of the exit of the blade tip through the sole. The more protruding the cutting edge, the thicker the chips removed and the lower the quality of the resulting surface. If the blade exit is insufficient, the chips are removed too thin, so the processing takes a long time. In the event that an excessively large gap is set, the wood fibers of the workpiece may be damaged, resulting in chipping, especially if the knife is not sharp enough.

The amount of knife output differs depending on the modification of the planer. If rough processing is necessary, then the overhang is set at 0.5 mm. If the finishing tool is adjusted, this value decreases.

In order to extend the knife, it is necessary to loosen the mount and hammer it down a little with a mallet or press down with your fingers. In this case, it should be borne in mind that in case of excessive exit of the cutting edge from the side of the sole, it is impossible to return it by hitting the sharp part, since this will damage the sharpening. In this case, you will need to fully release the adjusting screw and pull the blade back.

Needless to say, how important a working tool is for any craftsman. The result of all the efforts of the worker depends on its quality, richness and variety of functionality.

One of the most famous and traditionally demanded woodworking tools is a planer. Despite its apparent simplicity, it can do a lot. However, not all home craftsmen know about this property today. Therefore, the answer to the question of how to make a planer the most active means to achieve the highest quality of work should, probably, be of interest to every potential carpenter.

Planer and its varieties

This hand tool belongs to the class of planing devices. The main purpose of the most commonly used planers is to create a given flat-rectilinear relief on wooden surfaces. In addition, they are used to uniformly reduce the size of wooden parts by gradually cutting off layers of wood.

A standard tool for cleaning planes and edges usually has a length of 20-25 cm. If earlier it was almost always made of wood, today there are many metal analogues.

Modern planers differ from older types both in increased strength and the option of adjusting for certain operations, and in the ability to equip them with single or double knives.

However, the main thing is that over the many centuries of evolution of this tool, carpenters, endowing it with new and new features and modifying the design, have found many different and promising additional functions for their faithful assistant. Which was expressed in a wide variety of types and modifications of the planer.

Thus, the following main modifications are known today:

• jointer;
• end planer;
• zenzubel;
• tongue and groove;
• Falzgebel;
• doborny planer.

There is also a large group of planers, which are distinguished by the type of planing of wood and their operating parameters.

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Hand jointer

Jointer device.

A jointer (semi-joiner) is a manual planer for leveling surfaces by planing wooden planes of a sufficiently large area and for fitting various parts. With its help, fine planing is also carried out.

This is facilitated by a significant length of the jointer block and a double cutter. A handle is mounted on the block behind the knife, there is a plug in front, with the help of which the fastening force of the working cutter is regulated.

The principle of operation of the jointer is based on the fact that during the first pass along wooden surface forms shavings, which consists of individual wood fragments. The final evenness of the machined plane is formed during the second pass, as evidenced by the appearance of continuous chips.

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end planer

As can be seen from the name of this carpentry tool, it is intended for clean finishing planing of the ends of wood blanks. Small wooden surfaces and side cuts of parts are machined clean thanks to the presence of a specially beveled (at an angle of 21º) cutter. In the end model, you can also use interchangeable knives.

You can adjust the saw cut depth by adjusting the cutter extension, which is performed using a special roller. The design of this type of planers is based on a stamped base, the width of the working part of which reaches 40 mm. In this case, the base of the tool and its monolithic sidewalls are located perpendicular to each other.

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Groove grooving tool

This planer has a second, Russian, name - a selector. This name is not accidental, since its main functional purpose- sampling with subsequent cleaning of slices, quarters, folds, grooves having a rectangular cross section.

The specified effect is achieved by setting the zener cutter at a right angle to the narrow block of the base and a special cutter configuration. It looks like a small rectangular blade with 3 cutting edges: the main (central) and 2 side edges.

In order to use a planer of this modification, you must have some experience with such a tool and knowledge of the technique for producing relief elements of wood blanks. Before using the zenzubel, quarters are marked on the workpiece with a thickness gauge, after which they are carefully carried out with a planer along the marked line. At this point, the first chip is removed, resulting in a small ledge. Further, it is possible to choose grooves, again passing along the ledge, much more confidently and quickly.

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This tool has other names - paznik, road builder. With its help, tongues are selected on the surface of a wooden workpiece - special narrow grooves that are located at a strictly specified distance from the edge of the workpiece. These grooves in woodworking are used to securely connect various parts of wood structures.

With a planer of this modification, it is possible to produce sheet piles up to 12 mm deep and 2-10 mm wide. A fairly wide range of tongue depths is achieved with the help of an adjusting device, with which a worker can change the degree of immersion of the cutter into the wood thickness. The paznik knife itself has a semicircular cross section.

An additional metal block acts as a guide, with the help of which the strict parallelism of the groove relative to the edge of the workpiece is maintained. Thanks to this design, the tongues can be placed at a distance of up to 100 mm from the edge of the wooden product.

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Stepped Falzgebel

This plane is used for sampling and stripping folds (quarters). It is used most often in cases where it is necessary to make long grooves along the edges of wooden surfaces, intended for the subsequent insertion of glass in window frames or in furniture shelves for glazing.

From the zenzubel mentioned above, which also makes longitudinal grooves, the false hebel differs in a wider sole, which has a stepped structure. This circumstance allows using this tool to select folds of the same size.

To select quarters of different profiles and dimensions, removable stepped soles are used. The ability to cut the vertical wall of the quarter gives the additional installation of a special knife on the side of the folded edge.

Choice of hand planers

The specialists of "Arsenal Master RU" have prepared for you this article - an overview of carpentry planers, summing up their experience and using open sources (articles in American magazines, the Internet).
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product, you can print this page yourself and for free.

We will consider four main size groups of classic planers according to the Stanley classification (Stanley) for working with planes and offer planer starter kits.

At one time, back in the 19th century, a size range of planers and jointers was developed. The basis of this series was laid by the American Bailey, and streamlined and finalized by Stanley.
Hand planers are available in a variety of sizes. Why are there so many?

We will try to explain this by considering 4 groups, depending on the application, and in order of increasing their size:

Consider which planers in each group are used for what.

Planes are assigned numbers in accordance with their standard size, the larger the number, the more planes. The first three small planers shown in the photo below are miter planers, the next three planers are from the second group "fine planers", the third group is a group of universal planers (Jack planers), and the fourth group of large planers are jointers according to our Russian terminology.

Each group best serves a specific purpose. For example, smoothing planers are designed to make wood as smooth as silk, ready for finishing.
Basically, it is the length that is the key to understanding each group. By choosing the right length planer, you can get the job done much faster with better results.

In the Western world, cross-cut planes are often associated with do-it-youselfers (self-employed) carpenters because they are inexpensive and small enough to fit on a belt or toolbox. Also they have wide application in a woodworking workshop.
A high quality miter planer can become one of your favorite tools.

There are three types of miter planers:

In Standard Angle miter planers, the blades are angled to the surface at approximately 20 degrees with the bevel up. The knife is usually sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees and, accordingly, the effective cutting angle will be 45 degrees. It is identical to the large planers.

In a Low-Angle miter planer, the blade is set at an angle of approximately 12 degrees, resulting in a much lower cutting angle, the picture shows the recommended angles for setting and sharpening the blade, including micro-beveled:

Pocket (pocket-size) planers use a standard blade angle, but these planes are ultra-small in size and light in weight.

A miter planer is great for planing any ends of wood fibers, including trimming the edges of drawer and door parts.
Planing end grain wood requires more effort than planing the front surface and creates more stress on the blade of the planer knife.
The miter planer blade is more stable because it is mounted beveled up instead of down as on most large planers.
In this position, the tip of the blade has additional support from the side of the planer body.
For planing ends, it is better to use a Low-Angle planer because it requires less effort.

A cross-cut planer, in addition to planing the ends of the fibers, still has more options for use.
The trimmer is convenient for forming a rounding or chamfer on the edges of parts, when held with one hand.
And of course, a pocket planer fits easily into any pocket - be it a carpenter's apron, shirt or fanny pack.

Smoothing plane is serious hand tool and best friend for those who work for them.
This planer turns planing into a close shave and it can make a board as smooth to the touch as silk.

But to call only this group a double planer is still not entirely correct, since a double knife is also used in other groups of planers.

There are three types of smoothing planers:

#4 is the type commonly used, although the slightly larger and wider #4-1/2 is more popular with overseas carpenters. Planer #4 is 2 inches (50.8 mm) wide

#4-1/2 - Heavier and the added mass of the planer makes it easier to maintain momentum when planing hardwoods. Planer #4-1/2 - 2-3/8" (60.3 mm).

#3 is lighter and smaller in width than #4. This is important for women carpenters and apprentice carpenters. Planer #3 is 1-3/4" (44.5 mm) wide.

Smoothing (smoothing) planers are used for fine planing of the surface of the board - finishing.
Their relatively short length makes them ideal for planing wide boards or furniture panels, because they can correct small irregularities on the surface, creating a long continuous chip. What is the gold standard in carpentry. The longer the leveling planer, the more continuous the chips and the smoother the surface. With a smaller size, smoothing should be more frequent.
Fine-tuning such a planer will pay off with a perfectly smooth surface, on almost any wood.

A longer tool makes it easier to keep its sole flat. In inexperienced hands, planing with a shorter planer usually results in blockages along the edges of the board.
Planing exactly with a planer with a double knife is possible only after acquiring sufficient skill.

In the Russian classification that we are used to, these are semi-joiner.
"He is a master of all trades, but he does not master anything" - says the saying. This expression perfectly describes the essence of this planer and helps to explain the origin of this name.
The Jack planer is longer than the fine planer and therefore more effective on larger surfaces.
This planer is great for rough planing, but it can also produce long, thin chips almost like #4.
It is powerful, efficient, versatile and useful tool even in a workshop filled with machine tools and power tools.

There are three types of Jack planes:

The classic planer (semi-joint) Jack is No. 5. Its width is 2 inches, like #4, but it is longer.

#5-1/2 is wider, longer and heavier than #5. Its extra weight makes planing difficult wood easier.

No. 5-1/4 - shorter, narrower and lighter than No. 5. It was created mainly for teaching carpentry.

Developing idea No. 5, the Canadian company Veritas expanded the capabilities of this planer by introducing planes of the series with an inverted knife and a small planing angle.

The Jack plane can both level and smooth the surface - it has more options than using more specialized planers for smoothing or leveling. It is also useful for aligning joints, for example, chair legs with a drawstring.
If you use a planer blade with a pronounced curve, then this tool is ideal for quickly removing large amounts of wood. According to our classification, it turns out . It is used for rough primary processing of wood.

A jointer (from the German Fugbank) is intended for the final processing of wood. It is used when there is a need to level the surface of a large size, as well as for joining the edges of long parts. Structurally, it is a long planer with a double knife. When planing with a planer of an initially uneven surface, chips are obtained in the form of small pieces, and with repeated passes - continuous, which indicates that the surface to be machined has become even.

Leveling planers are long, wide, and heavy. They are used for two specific purposes: straightening ends and leveling large surfaces. Accuracy is needed in both cases, and this requires a planer (joiner) with a long and flat sole. The most common leveling planer is the #7 planer, best known as the jointer.
A jointer is best suited for dressing long edges to attach them to each other.

There are three types of jointers:

No. 6 is best for leveling most large surfaces. It is used in front of a smoothing planer for clean planing, which finishes the job.

Planer #7 - Same width as #6, but about 4 inches longer.

Planer No. 8 is a hulk: longer, wider and heavier than No. 7.

Both No. 6 or No. 7 planes can be used for joining and leveling planes, although having both is ideal. If you only have one, then it is better to have two knives. For joints - a blade is required that is perfectly sharpened and has a straight, even edge; for leveling large planes - a jointer with a blade that has a sharp point with a slight curvilinearity is more effective.
No. 8 is large and bulky, but it is an excellent jointer for joining long joints, wide edges, for example - doors.

As we have reviewed, the breadth of standard sizes of planers closes almost all work from rough planing and leveling of planes to fine finishing planing. On the basis of the centuries-old experience of the Masters, the following basic kits have developed, which close most of the tasks of planing planes for a novice Carpenter. Highly specialized planers increase the quality and speed of work, so experienced craftsmen try to have as complete a line as possible.
Consider starter kits:

The recommended composition of the kit may vary depending on availability, changes in the product range from manufacturers, as well as your wishes.
Arsenal Masters specialists have sufficient competence and will be happy to answer all your questions. Tools available in warehouses in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Nizhny Novgorod, we will deliver to any region, there are promotions for free shipping. Payment on-line on the site by bank cards and non-cash on the account (VAT included).

1. flat planing
2. Figure planing

Zenzubel, tongue-and-groove, falzgebel, kalevka are the names of a manual planer. The article describes what this or that tool is intended for, how the devices differ from each other.

flat planing

Single

Designed for leveling the wood surface, equipped with a straight blade with a slightly rounded edge. Tools do not leave burrs, irregularities - they are used for fine planing of wood after rough processing.

Double

The trimming type of planers, in addition to processing the ends, is used for finishing the alignment of wooden material. The main blade is duplicated by a chip breaking knife.

Sherhebeli

They are distinguished by a rounded blade set at an angle of 45 ° relative to the sole. Thanks to the oval edge wooden material can be processed across the fibers. To remove thick chips, the hole for its exit exceeds the parameters of a standard tool by 3–5 mm. The device allows you to give the workpieces the desired configuration, but with its help you cannot get a smooth surface, the product must be modified with a jointer.

Sanders

This is a grinding planer with a double knife and a chipbreaker located at an angle of 50° to the working sole. The device is used for grinding, obtaining perfectly smooth surfaces.

jointers

Used for leveling edges and planes. Finishing of large surfaces is ensured by a sharp knife with a chipbreaker and an extended shoe.

Tsinubeli

Equipped with a single serrated blade. After passing through wood or plywood, a corrugated surface is left. The grooves formed by the cutter contribute to better adhesion of the parts to which the adhesive is applied.

Peeling

Are intended for alignment of end faces in plasterboard plates. After their application, it is not necessary to sand the sheet material. The design feature of the tool is that the cutting blade has the shape of a grater.

Figure planing

Planers classified in this category are designed for processing grooves, protrusions, edges.

Zensubeli

With their help, quarters are selected and cleaned, rectangular cuts, grooves, folds are formed, and perpendicular elements of the workpieces are planed. The zenzubel cutter is made in the form of a blade with a straight or oblique cutting edge, it depends on how the knife is fixed relative to the sole. The oblique blade has two cutting edges, mutual sharpening is applied to them. Zenzubels are used where it is necessary to form a dovetail groove. Even cutting across the fibers gives a perfectly smooth surface.

It is better to start choosing a quarter with a false gebel, and use the zenzubel for finishing work.

Kantenhobels

This is an edge selector used for chamfering, processing ends, edges, bringing to the specified dimensions.

The main difference between the Kantenhobel and other planes is the trapezoid shape of the blade.

Some models may be equipped with two cutting elements. Depending on the location of the knife, you can cut along the edge at an angle. At the same time, a fold is formed for the future joining of two parts, gaps are excluded.

sheet piles

With their help, a longitudinal groove is selected. The groove consists of two blocks connected by screws. One of them serves as a guide, the second serves as a mount for the blade. With the help of an adjustable stop, the edge of the groove can be set at the desired distance from the edge. Thanks to the persistent protrusion, the penetration occurs to the required parameters, while the blade does not bend.

federgubeli

Figured end planer is designed to form a longitudinal protrusion along the edge of the workpiece. This is provided by a blade having an opening in the center. After passing along the edge, a ridge remains. It fits into the groove. As a result, two parts are connected.

Kalevki

Equipped with a replaceable blade with a curly cutting edge. They have a multi-step sole. The tool is most often used for the manufacture of decorative parts: cornices, baguettes, and other wooden elements.

Falzgebels

Necessary for selecting a groove along the edge of the workpiece without preliminary marking. Includes a multi-step sole. A wide block helps to form grooves of the same size. If it is necessary to process the vertical wall of the quarter, an additional side cutter is installed on the folded edge.

Shtapy

Designed for rounding the edges of parts. These planes have a blade, the edge of which is provided with a semicircular recess. There is a concave sole. When processing the edge of rectangular ends of parts, the knife removes chips in such a way that the edge acquires a rounded shape.

Making a planer with your own hands

The photo shows a drawing with the designation of the dimensions of each part.

The blade and chipbreaker are best purchased at a hardware store. The price for them is low. The dimensions of the body are usually determined by the dimensions of the blade.

The block is cut from solid wood. Its workpiece should exceed the size of the finished product by 40–50 mm. Vertical and oblique lines are applied to the side faces with an extension to the remaining sides. On a drilling machine, a hole with a diameter of 6 mm is formed in the center of the workpiece, then the same holes (4 pcs.) Are drilled on both sides in the corners. “Cheeks” are sawn off from the workpiece, then markings are applied to the place of the cut.

When cutting the “heel” and “toe”, the saw should pass close to the lines.

The block is being assembled. To do this, the “cheeks”, “heel” and “sock” are glued together. After the glue dries, the lower part of the block is sanded. The thickness of the sole is marked with a pencil, excess material is removed with a saw (the cut is used to make a wedge). Then the protruding edges are sawn off. They should be equal to the "cheeks".

Oblique marking lines from the "cheeks" are extended to the lower part of the sole, a hole is drilled (see photo).

Copies are created of the side template of the last and its attachment to one of the "cheeks". A hole is cut through which the planer blade will pass. A brass rod is glued into the “cheeks” hole, the shape of the block is adjusted to the specified parameters. Then the pad is sanded to smoothness. A wedge is cut out of a piece of wood, it must fit tightly between the blade and the brass rod.

The blade projection is adjusted using a wooden mallet. To do this, you need to lightly hit the "heel". The blade will need to be sharpened periodically. The angle of sharpening the cutter of a planer with a piece of iron tilted at 45 ° is usually 30 °. It is suitable for planing soft and hard wood.

It is difficult to imagine carpentry work without the use of special tools; this purpose is served by a planer, sherhebel, jointer and other specialized devices. Each of them performs its own tasks. It is impossible to manage carpentry work only with a planer.

All types of planers for rough and fine woodworking

Different types of planers are used for various types of wood processing. Most often used for carpentry:

Pioneer for wood billet

Scherhebel is a real "heavy artillery" among carpentry tools. It is used for planing wood that has not previously undergone any processing. When planing with a sherhebel, only the necessary shape and dimensions of the workpiece are achieved, but it will not work to achieve a smooth, even surface. For this purpose, other types of planers are used.

With the help of a sherhebel, only rough processing of the wood surface is performed. Unlike a planer, it allows you to plan to a greater depth, easily cutting off even significant irregularities. The design of the tool, outwardly resembling a conventional planer, has its own characteristics that make it easier to perform rough processing of a wooden surface. Unlike other tools, the sherhebel iron has a rounded blade and is set at an angle of 45 ° to the sole. The sharpening angle may vary depending on the hardness of the wood being processed.

For planing soft rocks, a sharpening angle of 25-30 ° is sufficient; for processing hard rocks, the blade is sharpened at an angle of 35 °.

In the standard design of the sherhebel, the blade (iron) has a width of 35 mm. Sizes may vary on some models. The width of the pad is larger than the blade size by about 15 mm. The chip hole in the sherhebel is larger than in the planer, about 3-5 mm. As noted above, rough wood processing does not allow to achieve a flat, smooth surface. The blade will leave groove-like marks on the wood. To eliminate them, a planer is used, finishing.

How is a wooden and metal sherhebel arranged?

The sherhebel block can be made of wood or metal. Depending on the material of manufacture of the pad, the design of the tool will vary slightly. Wooden sherhebels are produced in accordance with GOST 14666-79. In accordance with the standard, their design includes a rectangular body, horns for resting hands during work, a knife, a clamping wedge for the blade, a sole, a cork. The design of some models may additionally include a stop for the blade. The surface of the wooden elements in the construction of the sherhebel is varnished, which provides wear resistance and an increase in the service life of the tool.

In accordance with GOST, the following materials are used for the manufacture of sherhebels:

• block - made of hardwood;
• sole (according to GOST 2695-83) made of hornbeam, maple, ash, beech, white acacia;
• pad pad - from the above wood species, as well as birch, elm;
• knives are made of double-layer steel. The main layer according to GOST 1050-88 from steel grade 30, or according to GOST 1435-99 from steel grades U8, U8A, U9. For the cladding layer, steel grades 9KhF, 9Kh5VF, Kh6VF, 9KhS are used (in accordance with GOST 5950-2000). It is also acceptable to use other steels that correspond in terms of resistance to the grades listed above.

In the metal version, the body is cast. The handle-horn is tightly fixed in it. To support the carpenter's hands during work, a large handle is installed. The knife is fixed with a screw connection between the clamp and the base of the body. Unlike wooden models, metal ones are more durable. However, craftsmen prefer to use wood carpentry tools as they provide best quality processing.

How to use the tool correctly?

The use of sherhebel is rough planing of wood. During this operation, chips are removed from the workpiece by means of reciprocating movements of the plow. A tool in a metal case processes hardwood or chipboard blanks. Experts advise to perform the main work on wood processing with tools in a wooden case, as they provide better sliding on the surface of the workpiece.

The design of the sherhebel is distinguished by the presence of a rounded blade, which allows you to remove significant unevenness from the surface of the workpiece. ty. In this way, wood is prepared for further processing and fine leveling. Unlike carpentry planers, sherhebels are large. They are massive and heavy.

To ensure high-quality processing of the workpiece, it must be carefully fixed. The best way to do this is with a carpenter's workbench. In the absence of such an opportunity, you can use a regular table to which the workpiece is attached with clamps. The place of processing should be located as close as possible to the vise. During operation, smooth, even, reciprocating movements are performed. The force is applied while the tool is moving forward. The return movement allows you to return the tool to its original position, so it is always performed passively, without effort.

If the blade of the planer is dull ...

Not only the workpiece should be prepared for work, but also the tools and fixtures used. The knife must be sharpened at the required angle (depending on the hardness of the wood being processed). The position of the knife in the body of the carpentry tool must be carefully adjusted. The sharpening of the cutting blade is carried out on a bar fixed on a workbench or table. It is necessary to draw along the bar with the lower edge of the knife (bevel). The pressure is applied when moving away from you, while the chamfer should be completely adjacent to the stone.