Keys for door locks. Lock picks for lever locks

The ability to work with a master key is "aerobatics" in the field of opening locking devices without a key. Unlike rough breaking, often door master keys do not damage the lock, making it possible to use it in the future, opening it with a native key. Manipulative autopsy has always impressed people watching this process from the sidelines. However, it does not occur to many that this spectacular business may be more accessible, you just have to show patience and skill.

What is necessary for successful work with a master key?

Everyone can learn how to work with a master key against weakly protected locking devices. For this, some special skills are not required, but to pass "through the locks" of the 3rd and 4th protection classes is a real skill. To open well-protected locks with a master key, it is not enough to have the right tool at hand, you need to have the necessary set of skills and abilities that you need to constantly hone.

We make a set of master keys with our own hands

It is quite expensive to buy lock picks in the online store. Plus, in sets of factory master keys, there is not always the whole essential tool not to mention its quality. Therefore, we initially do not look for easy ways, trying to make the necessary master keys on our own. To make our first master keys we need:

emery;
a set of files and files (which will have to be spoiled);
Screwdriver Set;
vise and pliers;
a hammer;
and most importantly brains and straight arms.

In addition to the specified list, you will also need templates for making various master keys. But they can be found quite easily on the Internet, so we will not talk about them in detail. Now we need to take a set of needle files and files and turn it into a set of picks by modifying their sharp metal handles. The fact is that files and needle files are made of durable tool steel, which means that the master keys will be durable and withstand significant loads.

To begin with, we will make hook-shaped master keys. Referring to the configuration of the rod in accordance with the template, we process the tip of the needle file handle, giving it the desired shape. Then, very carefully holding the needle file in a vise, we bend it with pliers at the desired angle. We do the same with other hook-shaped unlocking devices, you will get three of them.
Now let's make a pick with a tooth on the end, designed to lift the pins of the cylinder lock. To do this, we find the template of the corresponding master key and determine the size of the tooth. Then, on the emery, we grind the thick part of the needle file handle, leaving a part that looks like a tooth. Now we clamp our workpiece in a vise and process it with a file to give the tooth the desired shape, not forgetting to grind the sharp edges.
Next, we will make a master key-comb. We take files and grind several recesses on its handle with the help of a second file, so that we get teeth. The template will help us with the dimensions.

Important! The sizing and fit of the teeth is often quite difficult to implement on the workpiece with just a file and a ruler, so be prepared to mess up a few picks before you get anything worthwhile.

In addition to the above set of master keys, we need a good tensioner and a roll. The tensioner can be quite simply made from a curved hex key, the edges of which need to be turned on sandpaper. We will make a roll-up from a screwdriver with a rod of suitable thickness, bending it with a hammer at the desired angle.

The basics of picking a cylinder lock

To open the cylinder lock, we need a tensioner and a master key with a clove at the end. First, we insert the tensioner into the keyhole and try to turn the larva towards the opening, creating tension. Then we introduce a master key with a tooth into the lock and try to catch the first pin. The lock responds to our every action with light clicks, so listen carefully and react correctly.

Our first task, without removing the tension from the cylinder, is to hook the first pin, giving it a position corresponding to the opening. As soon as this succeeds, the cylinder will move a little, then the next pin is next in line, and so on until the lock opens. Quite rarely, after the first iteration of the pins, it is possible to open the lock, so after going through a series of secret elements once, do not hesitate to try again. It will definitely work the second time around.

Remember! When manipulating the master key in the cylinder, you need to be extremely careful, because the larva inside is quite fragile.

We open the lever lock with a master key

When opening a lever lock with a master key, it is also very important to feel the secret mechanism with your fingers. After all, you can’t look inside, and heavy plates need to be properly lifted, while leaving the deadbolt in tension. All this requires a fair amount of training. But if there is a desire to learn, then why not?

For manipulative opening of the suvaldnik, we need a roll-tensioner made of a flat screwdriver bent at a right angle and a hook-shaped master key of suitable sizes. It is better to sharpen the tip of the pick hook first, and spray WD-40 liquid into the keyhole of the locking device we are interested in. It will facilitate the movement of the plates.

We introduce a screwdriver-tensioner into the keyhole to the end and turn it in the direction of opening the lock. Holding the deadbolt in tension, we insert the hook-shaped master key and begin to catch the first plate. As soon as we succeed, we lift it, at the same time trying to make a turn with a roll. Next, we catch the second plate, then the third and so on until the lock opens.

In conclusion, we note that every good owner should know the basics of manipulative opening of locking devices. Well, you can make master keys for locks with your own hands. To become a highly qualified specialist in this field, you need interest, dedication and years of training. But in most cases, in order to find a way out of a life situation associated with a castle, it is enough to know the basics!

The master key is a specialized tool, used to open locks without using a key or breaking the lock.

The manufacturer of the first "professional" master key was the American inventor Alfred Hobbs, who received several patents for his master keys and founded Hobbs Hart & Co in 1851. Ltd, which traded in lock picks.

Lockpicks can be used to break locks by criminals. According to R. S. Belkin's "Forensic Encyclopedia", master keys can be classified according to the types of locks they are intended for breaking (cylinder, lever, spring); The principle of operation of each type of master key is somewhat different. Wistity (a thieves' jargon term derived from English name marmoset - a kind of small South American monkeys), which is a handicraft tool, similar to tongs, and designed to capture the tip of a key left in a lock closed from the inside of the door. S. I. Potashnik in his work “Forensic Investigation of Locks” singles out wistiti as a separate type of device for opening locks, different from a master key.

At the same time, lock picks can also be used, for example, by locksmith workers in the event of a lock or key breakage or a key being lost. In addition, sometimes picking one's own locks with the help of master keys can be a hobby or even a kind of sport, with the presence of "interest groups".

The attitude towards master keys and their use in different historical and modern states is different, but mostly negative. For example, in the Brazilian Empire, it was illegal to possess or sell any item that could be regarded as intended for hacking. In some states - for example, in Great Britain, and Japan - even the possession of master keys is actually prohibited.

How and from what to make master keys

What do we need for this

drill or machine tool, or better sharpened;
an abrasive circle (if only a drill) (Photo1);
a folding meter (Photo2) or a suitable plate with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm (the main thing is that it be made of good metal and not bend too much, for example, a knife, a hardened plate or a spring of suitable size) we will make the master key itself from it;
a small hexagon from it we will make a knob;
test subject (any suitable mask from the castle, but it’s better to have some Korean one, since it’s easier to start training);
teski (without them it will be very inconvenient);
patience and hands from the right place.

Let's start!

First we need to choose what kind of master key we want to make (there is a huge selection). We will do one of the three simplest and most common. We disassemble the meter for this, it is necessary to grind off the rivets on the sides, but do not throw them away, they will still be useful to us (see Photo3).

The next stage is the processing of the meter link, we process it according to the dimensions shown in Photo4. Processing is carried out using a stone nozzle (see Photo 1), the main thing is not to overheat the link of the meter. It’s not worth doing a working part that is too long, since it can break, and we just need the master key to reach the last soldier (see Photo 5).

After we have made the master keys, we need to polish them, this is done so that they do not cling to anything, so that no one speaks, and it is easier to work with polished master keys (opening locks with master keys is a very delicate science).

Now we fasten the finished master keys in three pieces with the same rivets, but you can not fasten them as you prefer (see Photo 6).

The next thing we will do is a pusher, we need it to give a turning force to the lock.

We take a hexagon 3 or a suitable bar of good metal and make a “poker” (see Photo 7).

You can also make a pusher from the key (see Photo 8), we simply remove the working part, leaving only the upper part of the key.

Consider other types of locks, master keys to them and methods of opening without master keys.

The first one we'll look at is Finnish castle so-called disk with semicircular keys.

It usually opens in two ways:

1. Rolled up it is made from nozzles (bits) from KRAFTOOL or similar well-known companies, but not from such as STAYER and similar consumer goods. You can make it from bars of a good alloy, it is checked by typing. It is best, of course, to make it from titanium, you can get it from turners and process it there. The roll looks like Photo 9 as a blank key with a hexagon at the end under the head. Processing bits with the same stone, see Photo 1, and most importantly, the temperature of the bits during processing should not exceed 80 degrees, as this will lead to metal tempering. After processing, the finished roll must be polished, this is done so that it does not break. Imagine if you make a scratch on the glass and hit it, then the glass will break in this place on the fold, the same thing if there is a scratch, then it will curl up in this place, Checked! Well, everyone understands how to use it. We insert the roll up to the stop into the lock, put on the head and turn it clockwise.
2. With a puller. Buy self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the discs until it stops so that the bolt head protrudes from the lock by a centimeter; this is done in order to hook the puller. The puller looks like this, see Photo 10. In the same way, you can open the English lock (pin).

Consider padlocks

Well, it's all just opening padlocks makes no sense if it can be bypassed. We take an adjustable wrench with a length of 40 centimeters, the longer the easier it is to wield it. We clamp one of the darlings of the door and bend it.

Bambing This method was invented back in 1950, it was based on simple method. We all played billiards, if we hit ball 1, then we give it an impact impulse. Ball 1 hitting ball 2 stops and ball 2 starts moving. As we know, cylinder locks have two soldiers in each cell. If we hit the upper soldiers, they will remain in place and the lower ones will go down to the stop for a few nano seconds. If we start turning at this moment, the lock will open, it will not be difficult as it seems the first time. According to this method, spring pistols were invented that hit the soldiers. But more recently, they came up with an ingenious thing BUMP-key, see Photo11.

Now I will explain the meaning of the alteration. We need to open the lock, no matter how good the firm, we get the key from the same lock, we grind the grooves to the maximum length of the secret, now we grind the nose and the key stop, this is done so that the key after we insert it leaves a gap between the key and the cylinder 0, 5-1.0mm. Now if we hit the end of the key, it will go 0.5-1.0 mm into the cylinder, causing the soldiers to go down. Transferring energy to the lower soldiers and at this moment we turn the key. This way you can open even Mul-T-Lock and absolutely any cylindrical locks with vertical and horizontal cutting of secrets.

Good luck in your endeavors and do not break the law!

Original article in English

In order to be able to open a lock it is important to have the right tools for the job.
This section will teach you what tools are required for the particular lock you are attempting to open.

The majority of warded locks come in the form of padlocks. The tools needed for such a lock can either be made or purchased at low cost. These being skeleton keys. This type of lock is the only type which skeleton keys are available for. At this point it should be noted what a skeleton key actually is in order to dispel any myths about them.
A skeleton key is simply a key which only consists of enough metal to open the lock. With the warded lock, with reference to the mechanisms section, it can be seen that part of the lock does not move, i.e. the actual ward. This is where a key which only has enough metal to operate the locking part, comes in. The diagram below illustrates the function and operation of the skeleton key.

As can be seen, part of the key has been filed away preventing the key from being stopped by the ward, thus allowing the remaining end section to come into contact with the locking mechanism and open the lock.

These skeleton keys can be bought quite cheaply, however, they can also be made with little difficulty. A skeleton key for a particular make of a warded lock which opens other locks in the same series can be made quite easily by removing part of the key which would be obstructed by the ward. The diagram below shows how a key to a lock can be made to open other locks of the same series and possibly warded locks of other manufacturers.

The following illustration depicts other skeleton keys which can be manufactured.

Pin Tumbler & Wafer

The tools required to open these two types of locks are similar and will therefore be looked at together.

Unfortunately, contrary to popular belief, there are no skeleton keys which open this type of lock as is depeicted in films, but is more down to skill and practice.

Hook Picks

These are for the use of "pure picking" as will be explained in the techniques section.

All that is needed here is to understand what they are and to appreciate that they come in a variety of sizes.

Rakes come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The diagram below shows some fo the major ones.

Turning Tools/Tension Wrench

A vital requirement in the picking of these types of locks.

Bypass Pick

This tool can be easily made by grinding a hacksaw blade to a tapered point similar to that shown below.

Lifter Pick

The size of this will be determined by the lever lock to be picked.

Turning Tool/Tension Wrench

This tool, although has the same name as that used for pin and wafer locks, is very different in construction. Both by way of shape and strength of metal used. The reason for this will be discussed in the techniques section.

Combination Brief Case

Combination Probe

This type of probe doesn't require the strength of the similar bypass pick used for pin tumbler locks but instead must be extremely thin.

This probe is for the sole purpose of opening brief case combination locks.

The probe which I constructed for this use was made from a feeler guage. In particular a number 12

Construction Picks

Although picks are relatively cheap to purchase it can often be quite difficult obtaining them and finding outlets which will sell them to you.

This need not be a serious problem as adequate picks can be constructed by oneself with a little hardwork and patience.

In order to make a pick it is a vital requirement that you have a grinder, as files will not shape the metal required to make a strong and long lasting pick.

This brings us to an important issue, i.e., what metal should be used and where can it be obtained? Well for a pick to be of any use it must fulfill two main criteria. It must be strong and it must also be thin, (to get past any fancy key hole which stands between you and the mechanism).

Such metal can easily be found in the form of hacksaw blades. These can be marked into the shape of picks by use of a permanent pen and can then be ground carefully to the shape required. This metal is extremely useful and can be used to construct the hook picks, rakes, bypass pick and lever lock lifter pick.

Feeler guage sets, as available from hardware or automobile shops, also provide metal which can be used. Although some of these are only useful for shims they can be used for picks or probes, (especially combination probe), depending on their strength and thickness.

The metal used for turning tools both for pintumbler/wafer and lever will vary. For a turning tool used to open a pin tumbler or wafer lock any springy metal which can be bent to the shape illustrated above, i.e, the straight forward simple turning tool type A, without the tool losing its shape will be sufficient.

The lever lock turning tool must be constructed from a much more rigid and stronger metal. It should be such that once in the required shape it will not bend as it must be able to exert a strong turning force.

How to make master keys with your own hands, using improvised means, is not as difficult as it might seem to some. But your efficiency, your result directly depends on the quality of the tool. The disadvantages of the master key can be compensated high level professionalism, but certainly not vice versa. For educational purposes, I still advise you to make a master key yourself, undermining and correcting it if necessary.
I would like to say that it is not necessary to make a master key according to a template downloaded from the Internet. You can come up with your own, unique model. It is necessary to understand how the master key opens the lock, and when creating it, it is guided precisely by this.

I advise you to watch a video where it is described in detail how to make a master key at home.

A small digression from the topic. Two reasons prompted me to this guide: many argue that it is almost impossible to make smart master keys at home, and the fact that there are a lot of guides on the Internet for creating them, but only for cylinder locks.
We will try to make master keys for "English", disk, tubular and level locks.

For manufacturing, we need the following tools:

Emery

Sandpaper with a flexible abrasive wheel (optional)

The so-called Drimel-type engraver, you can't do without it!

And a felt circle with GOI paste, not necessary but recommended

Also a couple of standard tools such as a hammer, etc.

And of course, the two main ones, without which nothing will come of it: BRAIN
AND HANDS

Preferably straight! :)

Master keys for opening "English" cylinders.

For the manufacture of these master keys, I used a steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm., But you can also use a hacksaw blade (for metal), an old Soviet folding ruler (too thin for me). For shaping, I used a template downloaded from the Internet.

I printed it out, cut it out, and glued it on with super glue. Of course, you can see it by eye, but here the shape and size play a huge role, especially in the first and third from the left. We slightly rivet the wire, if this was required by the form of the master key. We will remove the excess on the emery, bring the thickness to the limit we need, then use the milling cutter to fit the glued pattern. For this purpose, I used nozzles: cutting disc, diamond disc (for very small parts).

After that, the part is polished on a flexible abrasive wheel, or manually (grinding is required!) so that the master key does not cling inside the cylinder and does not cause us discomfort.
And of course we polish on a felt wheel, this operation is not at all necessary, grinding is enough, but I want the tool to look aesthetically pleasing. Well, for the "tightness" or "tensioner" I took two hexagons ( different sizes) and lightly sanded the sides so that it was flat.

For convenience, I used a heat-shrink tube on the handle (sold on the radio market). Basically, everything is on the cylinders for now, because it's all on the Internet.

Key-master key for "Tubular" locks.

The video showing this key is also the sea, but I have not seen how to make it from improvised materials and normally. For manufacturing, we need any tubular key, preferably with a lock, I purchased a hinged Lex company (what it was).

We also need a clip of paper clips from a stationery or construction stapler

On the key, we need to select seven grooves (if the lock is seven-pin). This can be done either with a dremel or by hand with a flat file.

The main thing is that the longitudinal grooves are flat and not semicircular, and do not overdo it with depth. It should not be deeper than the one that was. Next, we cut three paper clips from the clip so that they do not crumble and bite in half. "Pins" are ready. After that, you need to choose a radial groove for the elastic, this is done to better press the "pins" of the paper clips. I cut off the gum itself from a hose with a diameter of 7mm (inner), 12mm (outer) and 4mm thick. It is not necessary to observe the dimensions, it is important that the “pins” are tightly pressed, you can even use an elastic band for money.

In the end, we should get such a master key:

Well, I think you know how to use it, and if you don’t know, look on the Internet (there is one).

Master key-decoder for disk locks.

These picks are a little more difficult than the previous ones. The first of a type-setting aluminum screwdriver (there were hexagon sockets inside)

As you can see from the photo, it is hollow in the nutria, closer to the “nose” the inner diameter is smaller (what you need), cut just above the middle. Inside a copper tube (diameter 10 mm) a collet chuck is soldered at one end, for clamping, changing and adjusting the manipulator, from the other end it is flared in order to be clamped by a cap (nozzles were stored there).
There are two bolts in the nose for clamping, changing and adjusting the tightness. Oh yes, on copper tube notches, two millimeters each. And yet, holes are drilled through the lid and a thread is cut, for a bolt, so that the medical tube does not turn. Assembled, it looks like this:

A micrometer was taken as the basis of this master key-decoder because of the ready-made scale, which is the best suited for our purposes.

We change the native axle for a suitable rod with a diameter of 8mm, or even a bolt with a diameter of 9mm with a cap, in which we grind the threads. Next, at the end, we drill two through holes and cut a thread (I used a thread with a diameter of 4mm) to clamp and center the manipulator.
For tension, you can take a tube with a diameter of 8mm and cut it in half to a length of 2mm. It should be clamped with a collet in front of the micrometer. Although I made an interference fit from a single piece of rod with an offset center, why think for yourself. As a manipulator, a steel, elastic wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm was used, slightly riveted from the end so that it would not turn.

Lockpicks for lever locks.

I think many have seen master keys for levers, I mean "branded". So I found tubes 5mm and even 4mm in diameter, but I didn’t come up with the idea of sandalizing what would be reliable and even at home, but I don’t want to spend $ 300 either. And I decided to try this master key:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in it. In the middle of the key, a groove was selected (by a milling cutter with a nozzle: cutting disc) for the manipulator almost to the center. The manipulator is screwed with a thin steel wire so as not to jump out of the groove. Needless to leave tightness with minimal lift. This master key is simple and quite reliable. But I wanted more universal and aesthetic.

The same key blank is used here, with the same groove, but with a slightly different tightness without zero lift. At the same time, a brass hexagon, which was lying in the barn, went into action, holes were drilled in the first one: along the diameter of 5mm (for the blank) and across the threaded diameter of 4mm (for bolts in order to clamp the blank). The second also has two holes: along 2mm (for the manipulator) and across with a thread 4mm in diameter (for a bolt to clamp the manipulator) This master key is considered universal, but requires a little more skill than the previous one.

P.S. The author does not bear any responsibility for your legal and illegal actions. All he wanted was to prove that at home you can, if not all that much. including doing with my own hands master keys for opening various locks.

Such an unpleasant situation can happen to anyone when, due to the loss of the key or its breakdown in the lock, it is not possible to get home. You can, of course, contact a service that specializes in solving these problems. But you will have to prove that you are the owner of this apartment by presenting your passport, which indicates your place of residence. But few people carry a passport with them, preferring to leave it at home, so for sure you will receive a categorical refusal to your request. If you have your passport, they will help, but you will pay a tidy sum for it. So at least it will be more difficult, but cheaper, to open the lock without a key on your own, using improvised means.

What to do if the keys are lost?

In specialized stores master keys for sale capable of opening almost any lock. But to use them, you need skill, which you, of course, do not have. Yes, and returning after dark, tired after work, you are unlikely to have a desire to look for such a store. And I want to go home.

Do not despair, the master key can be made from ordinary paper clips or hairpins. To do this, take 2 paper clips. One needs to unbend and straighten the long end until a relatively flat wire is obtained. Now move on to the second thread. It should be fully extended so that when bent in the middle, the ends of the paperclip converge, while the first should be made about a centimeter shorter than the second, the protruding part of which should be bent at ninety degrees. Now the second paper clip must be inserted into the keyhole and pressed in the direction of rotation of the lock.

In case you can't remember this direction, the chances of successfully completing the operation to open the lock without using the key are fifty percent. You can try to advance the paperclip according to the movement of the hands in the clock, this is how the locks most often open.

However, there exceptions to this rule. If the direction is chosen correctly, it will be easy to turn the paperclip, since there will be practically no resistance. Now, having fixed the pressure, with the first paper clip, try to find the pins, as a rule, there are only 5 of them. Start from the back keyhole and one by one press on all the pins. They need to be fixed. In the event that the pin has become as it should, you will hear a click. When all the pins are in place, make another turn with a paper clip and the door will open.

Opening the lock with tools

Also, without keys, the door can be opened with the help of tools that are selected, depending on the type of lock. For example, if you have a simple cross-cylinder mortise lock, not without a drill. It is necessary to drill a hole above the keyhole and use a master key to raise the stopper, after which it remains only to move the bolt hook and the lock is open. If you come across a lock, which is a cylinder with pins, make a hole in it with a drill, after which, inserting a master key there and turning it, open the door. Welcome home.

Things are a little different with padlocks. Without his key can be opened in 2 ways:

With the help of a master key, as mentioned above, which is very difficult to do
Just knock down the castle. To do this, you can use a crowbar: press on the place where the shackle is attached to the body, and the padlock will open, or rather, break. Does not work? Saw with a hacksaw, which will take no more than 10 minutes

If you come across an extremely strong and reliable padlock, use an ordinary aluminum can. Cut a shamrock out of it and open the lock with its middle tongue.

The rack lock is quite easy to open without a key, and there are three ways to do this.

Insert a screwdriver between the door frame and the door, press the door with force, making a loop out of the fishing line, stick it into the keyhole, circling the pins, and pull it towards you. Reiki move away - the door opens.
This lock can be opened without using a key with an ordinary carrot or pencil. To do this, lubricate the mechanism and release the bolt, then push the door in the same direction as you close the door, then you need to drive one of these “master keys” into the keyhole, turn it and the door will open.
With a drill and screwdriver. First, determine the location of the crossbar - a sheet of paper should be dragged between the door frame and the door, and then, having felt the crossbar, make a hole in the box with a drill and a screwdriver will only move the crossbar.

What to do if the key is broken in the lock?

Of course, you have to take it out first. Use jigsaw file. It must be inserted into the keyhole so that the teeth are directed upwards, then try to hook the key with it and if you manage to do this, just pull it out. And then, using the above methods, open the door. And if part of the broken key protrudes from the keyhole? It’s quite simple here - you can get the key and open the lock, as long as the pliers are at hand. Having hooked the key with them, turn it until the door opens, and then pull it out.

Finally, it should be noted that when using these methods to open locks, be conscientious and remember that opening other people's doors is punishable by law.

Many of us in life have a situation where it becomes necessary to open the lock without a key. For example, you go out to throw out the garbage, and the door of your apartment slams shut, the keys are left lying on a shelf inside the apartment. Or when the keys to the car are forgotten in the trunk. There are many such cases. In many cases, the problem can be solved by a specialist who knows how to work with master keys. In this article, we will consider the option of opening the cylinder mechanism of the lock, as well as opening the lever-type lock with the help of master keys.

Warning

Before you start picking locks yourself, I would like to warn you that due to lack of experience, you can ruin a lock or door, and replacing them can be a very expensive pleasure for you. Therefore, if you are not completely confident in your abilities, we advise you to turn to professionals. In St. Petersburg, you can contact firm "OtkryvashkaSPb" by phone 986-59-56 or to the firm "Bestkey" by phone 988-03-04 and get a 10% discount for services for the accurate opening and installation of locks, calling password "First Cognitive".

opening the lock

Cylinder lock opening

A simple, cheap cylinder lock can be picked by improvised means in a matter of seconds, almost as fast as using a key. This is true. Moreover, after fiddling with it for a few minutes, you can open it even without any special experience, and it is quite possible that you will cope with this task the first time. Two tools are used for opening. This is a tension bar in the shape of the letter "L" and the master key itself - a flat plate with a ledge.

Position one - the lock is locked, pins, they are pins, (No. 1) keep the cylinder locked. The cylinders are arranged in a row, one is shown in the section. Position 2 - the key (No. 2) inserted into the lock lowers the pins to the desired distance - note that the border of the pins and the border of the cylinders coincided and now the cylinder can be freely rotated. What to do if there is no key? Go to position number 3. With the tension bar (#3) you create a light, precisely calculated tension in the lock by turning the cylinder in the direction of opening. With a master key (No. 4), the pins are alternately immersed until they stop and are released. In this case (Figure 4), the cylinder shifts slightly on each pin, and the pins get stuck. And the cylinder (Figure 5) turns, no worse than with a key. Let me remind you once again - if you press too lightly on the cylinder, the pins will fall into place without stopping. If it is too strong, they will get stuck in the depths of the castle and will not fall into place. This will not always work - since vile locksmiths use various tricks - for example, the pins are made in the form of the letter T. In this case, you have to personally push through each pin individually or act on several at once, which is the purpose of the master key with several bends. In especially difficult cases, as already mentioned, a situation may arise in which you will have to feel for each pin separately and set the Opening of the cylinders. A simple, cheap cylinder lock can be picked by improvised means in a matter of seconds, almost as fast as using a key. This is true. Moreover, after fiddling with it for a few minutes, you can open it even without any special experience, and it is quite possible that you will cope with this task the first time. Two tools are used for opening. This is a tension bar in the shape of the letter "L" and the master key itself - a flat plate with a ledge. This is how it looks like:

The protrusion on the edge of the pick should be of such a size that it would completely sink the pin into the hole, and at the same time should not touch the others. In width, the master key should leave enough space in the cylinder mechanism (in that part of the lock where there are no pins) for the tension bar, which is needed in order to create an interference fit on the cylinder itself. Insert the tension bar into the hole and lightly press it, turning the lock towards the opening. Naturally, the cylinder will not turn, but tension will arise. Now, while holding tight, insert the master key into the lock and quickly slide it over the pins, one by one sinking them into the lock mechanism. The essence of the method is that no lock can be perfectly accurate. There is always a tiny error. And when the pin takes its place, the cylinder, due to the fact that you press on it with a tension bar, will move a fraction of a millimeter to the side. And the pin will get stuck in the open position. And then the second and so on. and now they are all lined up in a row and the castle is open. Of course, if you did everything right, the lock will open, because it only takes a little underpressure of the tension bar and the pins return to their places without any friction, but it’s worth pressing, and they will go down and stay there. It is precisely in the accuracy of calculating the pressure on the tension bar that the basis of working with a master key lies. But it takes a little practice, and a simple cylinder will open.

Scheme of work with master keys

Position one - the lock is locked, pins, they are pins, (No. 1) keep the cylinder locked. All cylinders are arranged in a row, only one cylinder is shown in the section. Position 2 - the key (No. 2) inserted into the lock lowers the pins to the desired distance - note that the border of the pins and the border of the cylinders coincided and now the cylinder can be freely rotated. What to do if there is no key? Go to position number 3. With the tension bar (#3) you create a light, precisely calculated tension in the lock by turning the cylinder in the direction of opening. With a master key (No. 4), the pins are alternately immersed until they stop and are released. In this case (Figure 4), the cylinder shifts slightly on each pin, and the pins get stuck. And the cylinder (Figure 5) turns, no worse than with a key. Let me remind you once again - if you press too lightly on the cylinder, the pins will fall into place without stopping. If it is too strong, they will get stuck in the depths of the castle and will not fall into place. This will not always work - since vile locksmiths use various tricks - for example, the pins are made in the form of the letter T. In this case, you have to personally push through each pin individually or act on several at once, which is the purpose of the master key with several bends. In particularly difficult cases, as already mentioned, a situation may arise in which you have to feel for each pin separately and set it to the desired level, which requires skill and good skills, the ability to feel the lock, which will come only with great experience.

How to open a lever lock with master keys

Opening a lever-type lock with master keys

opening the lock, with due skill, can be opened with the help of special master keys. To do this, use L-shaped plates and hooks. It is thanks to complex manipulations with them that it is possible to lift all the plates of the secret mechanism. Accordingly, the more levers, and the more accurately they are made, the higher the secrecy of the castle and the more difficult open the lock. It would seem that everything is simple, but it is far from being the case. In addition to the dexterity and sensitivity of the hands, a professional must thoroughly imagine the inside of the castle, know its features, feel the “answer”, that is, understand what is happening inside when it is manipulated. Experience comes with age. And in reality, there are very few specialists in this field. For lack of factory master keys, pick the lock more simple fixture- two pieces of strong wire, bent at right angles. These are two wire hooks that are simultaneously inserted into the lock. One master key plays the role of a tension bar - you hook the bolt of the lock with it and try to turn it in the direction of opening. This, as in the case of the cylinder, creates friction and you can move the lever plates one at a time with the second master key. Like pins in a cylinder, they will snap into place and get stuck in the right position with the right amount of pressure on the lock. Tolerances in the manufacture of the lock work in the same way as in the cylinder. In a suval lock, you will have to maintain a uniform tightness for a long time and manipulate each plate individually. It is better to train on a simple lock, in the body of which a hole is made that allows you to see what is happening inside, until you learn to "see" the lock with your fingers.