Almost every farmer boasts an apple orchard. This tree is easy to care for and pleases with tasty and juicy fruits, so many gardeners give it preference. In this article, we will answer the question of where to plant an apple tree and how to properly prepare the soil so that the fruit tree will delight you with an excellent harvest for many years.

How to choose a place to plant different varieties

There are some general principles by which you need to choose a place to plant this plant. Of course, depending on the different varieties, the conditions may vary slightly, but the key points remain the same.

The best place for planting a tree is in an open area, best of all - on a hill. The soil must be loose to provide the plant's root system with sufficient water permeability and air permeability. In addition, the plant does not tolerate the proximity of groundwater - excess moisture can lead to rotting of the roots of the tree. Of course, if this cannot be avoided, drainage can be the way out, with the help of which excess water will be removed.

The distance between trees can vary depending on the variety. For example, if apple trees are undersized, then a distance of 1.5–2 m will be quite enough for optimal conditions. In the case when the trees are of considerable size, a large plot may be needed to ensure a distance of up to 5 m. Also, apple trees of different varieties suitable for mutual pollination should be planted on the plot.

In addition, it is worth protecting the plants from strong winds. To do this, sea buckthorn or mountain ash can be planted on the northern border of the site.

Now let's talk in more detail about how to choose a place for planting apple trees of various varieties.

Winter

Winter varieties are quite popular among gardeners. This is due to the fact that they are able to relatively easily endure even the most severe frosts. In addition, their fruits can be stored for a very long time, and they acquire the main taste qualities after a certain time after storage.

But it is precisely because of these characteristics that they require a huge amount of heat. And this means that the soil on which they grow must be well fertilized (fertilizing is required more than summer varieties), and cultivars should not be observed next to the plant. That is, their soil should be as nutritious as possible in order to ensure energy conservation.

Summer

These are apple trees with a short shelf life of fruits and, moreover, absolutely not resistant to low temperatures and cold. Therefore, it is recommended to plant them in more or less warm regions (the middle and southern stripes are suitable), where frosts are not too strong. In addition, they do not like the cold wind, so it is worth providing the plants with proper protection. It is also worth noting that it is best to choose a place for planting a tree where there will be a lot of sunlight, because it is extremely necessary for summer varieties.

autumn

Autumn varieties are characterized by medium frost resistance and relatively long shelf life of fruits.

In order for this apple tree to take root on the site, it is necessary to choose a well-lit area. In addition, care should be taken to ensure that the plant avoids drafts and sudden changes in temperature, and if the location of the tree itself does not allow this, you need to provide it with adequate protection on your own. In addition, it is not recommended to fertilize the soil too often; rare dressings are quite enough for the plant.

How to prepare the soil

In order for the soil to be quite good, it should be prepared a few weeks before the planting itself. This is done so that it is saturated with useful substances and, by the time of planting, the soil has settled sufficiently. What fertilizer is better to choose?

The pit should be a meter in diameter, and up to 80 cm deep. It is necessary to mix the fertile and infertile soil layers by adding fertilizers (humus, ash, superphosphates and potassium sulfate). The pit is filled up to the top, and a small mound of earth should be left on top so that the seedling does not end up in the funnel after some time.

After the soil settles, you can carefully plant apple tree seedlings on the site.

After we have answered the questions on how to choose a place to plant this plant, we will consider some of the nuances associated with growing apple trees.

If the tree is planted in soil in which the clay content is quite high, you need to deepen the hole and lay a layer of drainage on the bottom using tree trimmings or stones. Thus, the plant will have additional oxygen reserves, which will last for many years. If, on the contrary, the soil is sandy, you need to lay a layer of clay to retain moisture at the very roots.

Remember that actively growing apple trees turn out to be among the tallest trees in the garden, so it is recommended to plant it in the northwest corner of the site so that it does not obscure other plants.

A popular question among beginner gardeners is the question of whether it is possible to plant a new apple tree in place of the old one. Many farmers agree that this should not be done. In the place where the old apple tree grows, there will not be enough nutrients left, but root diseases and pests (if any) will migrate to the new seedling.

Therefore, it is recommended to look for another place where you could plant a tree and thereby avoid possible problems. Some, however, have found an alternative - a representative of stone fruits (for example, cherries) is planted at the chosen place. But, in any case, for a young apple tree, you need to look for a new place on the site.

And finally, we note that two people can best handle the optimal planting of the plant. After all, when a seedling is placed in the ground, its roots should be straightened. So, one person will deal with the root system, while the second will gradually sprinkle it with earth, at the same time tamping the soil well. So the result will be most effective, and the roots of the tree will remain safe and sound. Now you know where the apple tree grows best.

Video "Instructions for planting an apple tree"

From this video you will learn how to plant apple trees correctly.

Almost everyone loves apples. But in any case, getting their harvest on your own is more pleasant than buying a product of unknown quality in a store. It is only necessary to know exactly the basic techniques and points in order to ensure that errors in this matter are excluded.

Description of culture

An apple tree is a tree or shrub from the Rosaceae family, growing profusely both in temperate latitudes and in the subtropics. Plant height can reach 10 m. At the same time, the apple tree is covered with dark gray bark. Its foliage is green, their length reaches 0.1 m, the geometry of the leaf is close to an oblong egg. Apple blossoms are distinguished by their expressive aroma.

Judging by the description, they are characterized by pink, white or slightly red tonality. Flowers gather in umbrella inflorescences, the diameter of each flower can reach 40 mm. The apple tree blooms in the last month of spring, under favorable conditions the tree can even be completely covered with flowers. The size, tone and geometry of the fruits are largely determined by the variety and type. It is customary to separate the fruit and ornamental types of apple trees.

Their height allows you to enter a classification into:

• highly developed;
• weakly growing;
• partially dwarf;
• miniature group.

There is a great variety of external crown configurations. It is sprawling and weeping, compressed and in the form of a column. The last type attracts the attention of farmers with its unusualness: there is a main trunk and branches pulling up. The columnar apple tree absorbs a minimum of space in the garden, and its greatest growth is limited to 3 m. But the popularity of such a culture is limited by its susceptibility to freezing: plants beaten by frost, even when they survive, cannot bear fruit.

The so-called domestic apple tree is the collective name of varieties and hybrids grown in gardens. The growing season covers April-November. Berry, it is also a Siberian apple tree, forms a slowly developing tree with a height of 5-10 m. It is characterized by a rounded crown and a high density of foliage. The plant is beautifully flowering, people like it when receiving fruits.

Apples on the Siberian variety of apple trees do not exceed 10 cm in diameter, are painted in yellow or red. The fruits are round in shape, they grow on elongated stalks. Frost resistance is very high, which makes it possible to grow the plant in harsh conditions and use it as a stock in the northern regions of the country. But the plum-leaved apple tree, also known as the “Chinese”, is distinguished not only by its round, but also by its very large crown.

In spring, white or slightly pink flowers begin to form on it, the diameter of which sometimes reaches 30 mm.

The attractiveness of the plant is due to its resistance to:

• winter conditions;
• dry periods;
• many diseases.

"Chinese" suffers little from pruning. Apples on it do not exceed 3 cm, there are fruits with red and yellow peel. But the forest, it is a wild apple tree, stands out for its rapid growth (it can rise up to 15 m). Interestingly, shrubs are occasionally included in this group. On one plant there are either white or pink flowers, they do not grow together. The fruits of wild apple trees are sour, but one of the subspecies, the paradise apple tree, is well suited for grafting onto cultivated dwarf varieties.

The purple hybrid stands out for its charm and reddish leaves. The growth of the tree does not exceed 5 m. Decorative qualities are due to both flowers and fruits. Winter resistance is satisfactory for most regions of Russia.

Nedzvetsky's apple tree will be of interest to those gardeners who want to get a garden that is rapidly developing and is not very susceptible to infections and pest aggression.

Variety selection

Familiarization with the types of apple trees is not enough to make a competent decision. It is also required to correctly assess which variety is needed in a particular area. Until relatively recently, the undisputed leader was "Idared". But even today, when there are both tastier and more practical varieties of apple trees, many summer residents remain committed to it. The taste of fruits is transitional from sour to sweet, there are apples weighing from 0.1 to 0.3 kg; a serious problem is the low resistance to winter.

In terms of keeping quality and transportability, an apple will be an excellent contender for a place in the garden. Berkutovskoe. It is valued on industrial plantations, especially in the southern regions. Winter hardiness is average, but desiccation resistance will please farmers. The sweetness of the fruit and the average growth of the tree itself are noted.

And here is the variety "Bolotovskoye" gives high, up to 10 m, trees, zoned in central Russia. A feature of this variety can be considered an unusual green flesh. Although sour notes are clearly felt in the taste, it can hardly be called unpleasant, since the proportion of acids is small. You can save "Bolotovskie" apples until the end of January.

Of the new varieties, it is worth taking a closer look at such an achievement of breeders of the 21st century as a variety "Venyaminovsky" scab resistant. It is this circumstance that in many ways helps him win more and more space.

"Imrus", or “Russian immunity”, is able to survive even the most evil frosts, is distinguished by medium growth and a sweet and sour taste.

You can list certain varieties for hours, but among them a variety stands out "For a long time", which many connoisseurs even consider the world leader in taste. In addition, this apple tree gives powerful harvests and is not too whimsical. Although the variety belongs to the group "Chinese", it was developed in the USA. The fruits ripen in early autumn and attract attention with a strong aroma. A tree hung with apples looks incomparable even against the background of the most decorative species.

Pollination requires the participation of insects. The apple tree is able to lure them on its own, without the efforts of gardeners. But this will require planting plants separately so that bees and other winged birds do not get lost. Moreover, hiding such beauty behind other plantings is simply stupid. Trees reach a height of 4 m, while relatively small in width. Round wide crown with dark green shoots looks attractive from spring to autumn.

The main mass of branches without bends is directed upwards. When the fruit ripening season comes, it is difficult to see the branches themselves under the layer of apples held by shortened stalks. By itself, the leaf is easily confused with the one growing on the plum. The fruits are covered with a smooth skin and are not too large (average weight - 0.02 kg). There are both spherical apples and "cones".

When is the best time to plant?

It should be noted for a start that the winter planting of apple trees in Russia rarely brings good results. It is much more common to encounter freezing plants. Most gardeners do not start work until mid-April. Planting in the spring, if everything is taken into account and done correctly, allows us to hope for a thorough development of the plant by the coming winter.

As for summer planting, it is only permissible, but it is better to avoid such a practice. Risky gardeners are forced to water seedlings abundantly in the heat, and at the same time it is extremely difficult to observe the line beyond which root rotting begins. If, nevertheless, a decision is made to plant in the summer, it is worth selecting only specially designed varieties. Summer planting is sometimes recommended in Siberia to optimize preparations for winter. But such a measure immediately imposes on gardeners the obligation to think through everything and take into account the course of physiological processes.

The optimal moment for landing comes in the fall, or rather, in September and the first part of October. It was then that the bark of apple trees is completely ready for the cold season.

For your information: autumn planting gives the best result in the south. But even there it is recommended to choose areas saturated with black soil. This is even more important in the middle and northern parts of Russia.

Landing

To properly plant an apple tree, you need to dig holes where there is clay soil. Improving substances are added to these pits - peat, humus or washed river sand. The recess is dug approximately 0.8 m deep, its diameter is from 1 m. At the base, the shells left from the walnuts are laid out. But if it is rather problematic to collect so many shells, then it is much easier to find the required number of unnecessary cans.

Such layers should not be mixed, and their goal is the same - to strengthen the pit.

• potassium sulfate;
• wood ash;
• superphosphate.

A walkthrough in any specialized publication notes that the middle of the pit must be staked. After its introduction, the notch is ½ in height filled with earth. Only after that the seedlings are planted. The trunks of plants rest on stakes installed in advance. It should be noted that it is extremely difficult to do this work alone, so the involvement of a partner is fully justified.

In all instructions, it is noted that the best planting of apple trees occurs against the background of the natural "sleep" of the seedling. This makes it possible to exclude the beginning of the active development of the vegetative system. In the Moscow region, it is customary to plant apple trees in the autumn months. But regardless of the specific moment, Moscow gardeners must take into account that groundwater, even if it is not too high by local standards, is still 1.5 meters below the surface. Possible negative consequences are stopped by preliminary compaction of the lower layers by backfilling the soil.

In most of Russia, buying seedlings at fairs and exhibition sites is irrational. Most of the seed material is brought there from the southern regions; when winter sets in, they quickly freeze out. It is much more practical to go to a nursery in your area.

But even there it is worth being vigilant: it is very good if the seedling is not just shown, but also dug up immediately in the presence of the buyer.

Getting acquainted with the advice of experienced gardeners, it is worth noting the following point: where the land is poor (represented by a mixture of sand and gravel, composed of loam or peat), an increased amount of fertilizer must be added. Regardless of the type of soil, a very important point is the careful selection of the distance between individual trees. It necessarily adapts to the climatic conditions of a particular place, to the size of the garden and the seedlings themselves. Bush dwarf apple trees are planted with a gap from one row to another of 4.3 m, with distances between individual plants of 2.7 m. This scheme is used in small gardens, and in larger areas, row planting on trellises with gaps of 4.5 and 2.1 m respectively.

Just bush trees are planted according to how many rows are planned to be made. When one line is formed, at least 1 m of free space should remain between the apple trees, and exactly 3 m of empty land separate the rows. Another option involves planting dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees in the form of "lines" every 2.5 m, while the gaps are filled with other crops. It will be easiest for gardeners who have developed a clear planting plan in advance. But in this case, the greatest allowable convergence between apple trees is 1 m.

Sometimes landing is practiced according to a chess pattern, in which two fragments of the garden parallel to each row are slightly shifted. Such a solution allows you to maximize the full use of the entire available territory. According to professionals, dwarf plants with this method of planting between dwarf apple trees within the same row should remain 1.5 m. For semi-dwarf varieties, this distance increases to 3-3.75 m, and for large plants - up to 5 m. also recommended for palmet rows created on supports, while the row spacing is 4 m, and the distance between individual trees is 2 m.

If it is known in advance that it will be extremely difficult to organize the care of the garden or it will be completely absent for a long time, the chess construction is excluded. It will lead to the accelerated transformation of a pretty site into an ugly chaotic forest.

A single-row system (chain) is practiced:

• when forming alleys of fruit trees;
• when creating fruit walls near high fences or natural obstacles;
• in a small area;
• to delimit the cottage space into separate segments.

A closed root complex allows you to plant plants in any phase of the growing season, but for apple trees that were under a roof or canopy, immediate planting is detrimental. At least 3-4 days after unloading from the car, they should be left where the sun's rays will touch the foliage for several hours a day. A common mistake is to plant seedlings that previously lived at strictly positive air temperatures in a garden that is still subject to jerks of night and day temperatures. At the initial stage, it is recommended to choose for landing such moments when the sky is shrouded in clouds or when the sun is already low above the horizon, and the shadows are lengthening. And even in this case, it is worth shading the landings.

When the weather is hot, seedlings with an open or closed root system suffer equally. If the heat came suddenly, when the apple tree has already been planted, removing it back into the container is pointless. It is more correct in the early, as well as in the late hours of the day, to spend a few minutes spraying with water. The hole must be kept moist at all times.

Usually, a seedling planted in one way or another develops into a full-fledged tree, which pleases the farmers for the entire set period and showers them with fruits. But sometimes, for some reason, apple trees break. Either the winds cleared up, then what carelessness occurred, and sometimes this happens to plants whose resource is far from being exhausted. You can save the situation if you re-grow an apple tree from a branch.

If it is known in advance that the selected plants are characterized by active growth, it is worth placing them every 6 m. Rows are abandoned in cases where they are able to block the insolation of the entire area or most of it. In addition to the distance between the apple trees themselves, it is necessary to take into account the optimal gaps to other plants. Otherwise, harm is done to all interacting cultures.

• pear planted on a weakly growing rootstock - 4-5;
• pear growing intensively - 9;
• large tree cherry - 6;
• bush cherry - 3.5;
• plum with a compacted planting from a dwarf or column apple tree - 3.5 (for all other types of apple trees - 4.5);
• large-sized plum - 6-8;
• currant - 1.25-3 m (depending on the growth of the apple tree);
• coniferous trees - 8-12 m (biological species does not matter).

It happens that an apple tree is found in the same garden with birches. For ordinary plant species, a gap of 4-5 m is left, but for seed plants it is doubled. It is allowed to create an apple orchard, in which potatoes and other vegetables are also present, the distance for them is 100-150 cm. When they try to decorate the site with lilacs, this is always commendable. But for dwarf apple trees, a distance of 4 m is needed, and for large trees, especially if the bush itself is also large, the distance is increased to 6 m.

In a number of gardens, you have to plant an apple tree along with raspberries. With the usual low growth of these crops, the gap is 2-2.5 m, for the remontant variety of shrubs, a distance of 400 cm from tall trees is required. There is no information about the distance to the barberry in the special literature, because this is the primary enemy of the apple tree, therefore, it is necessary to completely exclude such neighborhood. When organizing a full-fledged rose garden, the gap is made at 5-7 m. And when you just need to set up 1-2 bushes to decorate the place, you can reduce the distance to 4 m.

But on the garden plot there are both various plants and "inanimate" details. When planting apple trees, it is worth considering gaps before them.

In doing so, you need to think about things like:

• the threat of collapse of walls, fences with roots;
• interference for the repair of pipelines, massive structures;
• difficulties in extinguishing fires, eliminating other emergencies;
• objective interests of the owners of neighboring land.

So, if you plant tall trees on the site, then at least 4 m from the fence. But for dwarfs, the distance drops to 1 m. In order for the dwelling to be always cozy and safe and so that the roots do not cling to the foundation, weakening it, you need to move low apple trees by 4 m, high ones by all 8 m. But on any city or country The site has not only the main house, but also a small one. The minimum distance in this case is 2 m, and for all containers that are not tight, from 4 to 6 m.

To take care of an apple tree and other plantings, tools and other devices are required that are stored in a barn, a utility workshop. And the safety of such structures is guaranteed by an interval of 1 m for dwarf rocks in the absence of a foundation and 3 m for any plants, if the foundation is organized. Gardeners will make a gross mistake if they decide that this is where all the subtleties of planting end. Strictly observing the prescribed plants, it is important to pay more attention to the peculiarities of cultivating apple trees with a closed root system.

There is nothing supernatural in a closed root complex: if a plant grows in a container or a plastic tank from the first hour of life, it already belongs to this group.

When pulling out a seedling and attaching it to a hole, gardeners do not risk damaging the feeding parts. Unless you try to specifically soak the planting material, of course. But what will have to be abandoned is digging up the plant, because such a step immediately makes all the effort spent meaningless.

But a lot depends on what kind of variety lives in a particular place. The physiology of apple trees is bizarre, agricultural technology can reverse the course of life processes in them only in individual cases. Cuttings from branches throw out only shallowly germinating roots. Therefore, they will have to be planted strictly where other apple trees will not reach. And we must also remember that the growth of roots near the surface increases the risk of exposure to frost and dry summers.

Another point worth mentioning in connection with planting apple trees is how to transplant them. Such manipulation is necessary in a variety of cases. For example, when there is an urgent need to free up space within the crop rotation, and there are no other opportunities to do this. Or when a tree is pinched, it needs more space like air. Responsible gardeners in such an environment firmly forget about their convenience, the main thing for them is to reduce the stress of the transplanted apple tree.

The landing depth at a new location is determined by the general rules. But the recommendations on the time of work are unequivocal, it is best to take it either in the spring, before the dissolution of the kidneys, or when the last leaves fly around.

For your information: the foliage, when an urgent transplant is required, is cut off manually. Then a specific moment within the growing season loses its meaning. As usual, to perform these works, it is recommended to wait for the accumulation of rain clouds in the sky.

Transplanting in spring is definitely preferable to autumn if:

• the soil is poor in useful substances;
• the cold came too early;
• there is no complete confidence in the health of the plant.

When transplanting an apple tree in the fall, you should hurry: it must take root before the onset of cold weather. A new site is chosen in illuminated open spaces and be sure to ensure that interference is excluded. The distances are the same as always. But the landing recess should be 50% larger than the root complex. Excess acidity is corrected by adding slaked lime.

Care

In order for an apple orchard to give only serene happiness and pleasure, it is not enough just to plant apple trees properly. You will have to put in a lot of effort in the future. And yet, it is possible to grow and make any fruit tree bear fruit with “little blood”, if you pay attention to the accumulated experience.

Standard points when caring for apple plantations will be:

• maintaining decent land quality;
• moisturizing;
• cutting off excess and diseased parts;
• prevention of frost destruction of branches;
• repel attacks of rodents;
• weed suppression;
• resistance to insects;
• suppression of infections.

They begin to take care of a young tree in the first year of cultivation, taking care of its early withdrawal from hibernation. In summer, after flowering, it is time to feed, keeping the plants in good shape. This is the only way to keep the largest number of ovaries. When the shortening of daylight hours is complemented by a decrease in the average daily temperature, they begin to prepare for wintering. There are obvious differences when working on old apple plantings.

"Old age" is not counted by decrepitude; for the convenience of gardeners, this group includes all plants that are already grateful for their previous efforts with fruits.

At this stage, there are three main areas of work:

• maintaining the growth of young shoots;
• maintaining the regularity of the harvest;
• ensuring a decent level of harvested fruits.

Apple trees are allowed to be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers, microbiological compositions are also recommended. When abundant fruiting occurs, the natural forces of trees are not enough to hold the load. Then the timely and complete preparation of props depends on the farmers. In the event of a break in the branch, without which the normal proportion in the crown will be preserved, a “ring” cut is made with the area cleaned, carefully leveled and painted over. Thick branches, the absence of which will adversely affect the tree, are applied back and try to engraft.

Given the constant danger of winter frosts, before the start of the cold planting season, it is supposed to be saturated with moisture. You should also have time to heal any small wounds at this time, and even more so hollows. Another important aspect is precise cutting.

As for mechanical defects, the requirement is always the same - they must be eliminated as soon as possible. Having accidentally torn off the bark on an apple tree (or seeing that hares did it, for example), responsible gardeners immediately rush to cook and apply garden pitch. This prescription is even more relevant when a serious deformation is noticed, reaching the deeper layers of the tree. Imagine a similar injury on yourself personally, and it will immediately become clear why speed is so important. Microorganisms are extremely tenacious creatures, and if they are given a convenient entrance, it will be immediately used.

To strengthen the immune system, as well as reduce the risk of most disorders, the use of special drinks helps. But as with any kind of potent means, you need to behave carefully and carefully. Active drugs are often given after a meal to reduce their irritant effect. Similarly, mixtures containing nitrogen must be diluted in a significant volume of water. Nothing bad will happen if you do the same with other fertilizers (but without deviating from the instructions).

If the land on the site contains a significant proportion of sand, nitrogen will be valuable. Another thing is black soil. As part of this chemical element, it is already in excess. The more intensive watering (within reason), the more fertilizer can be invested. Rainy weather will also help here. If it is firmly established, farmers can simply spread the desired composition around the trunk and not worry.

While they are spudding other beds, doing some other work, resting after righteous labors, or driving back from their dacha, the rain stream itself will deliver the fertilizer to the goal. But we must also remember about feeding the plant outside the root. Such processing is performed only at those moments when the solar disk is not visible.

Attention: all fertilizers applied to the trunk and leaves must be weakened (dilute). Otherwise, you will have to deal with burns.

The very first time fertilizer is introduced in the spring, as soon as early leaves are found. This is just the moment when nitrogen will have to be injected for the future apple crop. Top dressing is combined with digging and is done strictly along the perimeter of the crown. Even the smallest area should not be left unattended.

• 40-50 kg of humus;
• 0.5-0.6 kg of urea;
• or 0.03-0.04 kg of a combination of ammonium nitrate with nitroammophos.

When the time of the first leaves has passed and the tree has blossomed, and this moment coincided with dry days, only liquid mixtures are used (diluted with 10 liters of water):

• chicken droppings - 1.5-2 kg;
• urea - 0.25-0.3 kg;
• slurry - 5 kg;
• a mixture of 0.1 kg of superphosphate with 0.06 kg of potassium sulfate.

There is also a third period when the apple tree yearns to be nourished. It comes when the flowers have already fallen off and flown around, and the fruits are pouring and ripening. Green top dressing is already recommended here. It is prepared by insisting the green parts of field herbs in water for 20-25 days. In summer, nitrogen alone is not enough; potassium and phosphorus should come to its aid.

Although it is necessary to treat apple trees repeatedly during the hot period, it is worth pausing from 10 to 15 days. Top dressing for the fruit tree should begin in mid-June. The only remedy is urea applied to the leaves. If the first summer month is damp, it is advisable to use root feeding instead of foliar feeding. As the apple tree grows, the saturation of the solution is increased annually.

In July, you need to spray the crown, be sure to take care of a uniform concentration on all parts. Complete nutrition must be provided using some nitrogen. The interval between the introduction of mineral and nitrogen mixtures is 7-14 days.

In autumn, trees without roots should not be fed, because this impairs preparation for winter weather. But feeding through the root with the help of ready-made mixtures in accordance with the instructions is very good. Dwarf apple trees are fed with a 25-30% reduced amount of fertilizer.

The formation of holes that reach a depth of 0.3 m helps to increase the absorption of feed liquids. The problem is that such holes are unacceptable for a column of apple trees of any variety; they are fed dry or by watering near the root.

A small amount of nitrogen leads to pallor and shredding of foliage. It also becomes smaller with a weak intake of boron, but here twisting and yellowing of the sheets are already characteristic. If there is an acute lack of iron, the leaf becomes yellow, and soon colorless, dies off, starting from the edge, new branches develop slowly.

Without calcium, the leaves become whitish and curl from top to bottom. The lack of magnesium creates a "short-term beauty": the leaf will be yellow, red or even purple, and will retain a green tone around the perimeter and on the veins. Copper starvation manifests itself in pallor and the appearance of brown patches on the foliage. Soon it becomes variegated, but this variegation is a harbinger of death.

A lack of phosphorus is recognized by a dull crown, in the color of which you can catch a bronze tint. An additional symptom is redness or the appearance of purple tones in the foliage. But the absence of zinc reveals itself by crushing the leaves, by their wrinkling. In addition to mineral components, competent watering is of great importance for the full development of the culture. It is carried out so that the soil is saturated with water 0.8 m deep.

Three irrigations are carried out consecutively:

• against the background of flowering;
• in the first days of July (when the fruits are actively ripening);
• in October (to prepare the plant for frost).

If the weather is dry, the frequency of watering can be slightly increased, and with heavy rainfall they are reduced. Water for irrigation should not be colder than 18 and hotter than 25 degrees. In the first and second year of life, apple trees are watered with 40-50 liters of water at a time. When fruiting begins, it is required to use already 70-100 liters. The frequency of watering rapidly growing apple trees in the first years of life is 4-5 times per season.

It is required to pour water strictly under the neck of the root. This significantly accelerates its penetration and reduces the wasted consumption for evaporation, for seepage into the depths. In the first two years, watering through the holes is more practical than other methods. But at an older age, it is recommended to use furrows reaching a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. When 48 to 72 hours pass after irrigation, it is worth loosening the soil and mulching.

Working with garden shears also has its own characteristics. Picking up pruners in the spring is worth to form a crown, and the best time for this is March and April (before the leaves from the buds hatch). But in the summer, only the removal of branches that block the main vegetative parts is allowed. You can also remove the processes growing along the body of the main axes.

Harvest and storage

Experienced farmers advise picking fruits only with cotton gloves. A coarser fabric breaks, rips off even the seemingly strong peel.

The second immutable law of apple picking is “what fell is gone” (for stocks). No, an apple that has fallen to the ground can be used, but only in two ways: either wash it and eat it right away, or process it.

It is recommended to leave the stalk on the fruit, it reduces the risk of premature decomposition. Natural wax coating is also useful. Those who seek to erase it are doing great stupidity. They think that hundreds of millions of years of evolution have been wasted, and that without this armor, fruits can lie for a long time. Meanwhile, nature acted much smarter - she created a remedy for drying out.

Fruit picking is recommended when it is dry, ideally in the afternoon. Summer varieties after full ripening are stored very little, they are recommended to be collected in August. The output is harvesting 14-20 days before final maturity. You can store the collected up to 1 month, if you provide a room temperature of 0-3 degrees. The fruits of autumn varieties are harvested at the end of August and in the first days of September, after which they are placed in storage for 2 or 3 weeks for ripening.

Winter apples are removed from the branches in the second month of autumn. Fresh collection of them is characterized by some rigidity and sourness. It will take 2-3 months for the fruits to reach full condition. But it will be possible to put them both on the New Year's and on the April table. Removing apples, they are cooled to 4 degrees and moved to a prepared storage.

The classic storage method is a wooden box, but the weakness of this option is due to its susceptibility to decay. It is allowed to use plastic containers, which should be washed and disinfected in advance. Improving the keeping quality of apples is helped by filling sawdust from hardwood into the tanks. Coniferous sawdust is distinguished by a resinous aroma, which the fruits will also perceive. Straw is bad with a high probability of mold formation.

Selected wood shavings have a moisture limit of 20% (preferably 15%). A good result is the shifting of apples with oak (maple) leaves, peat chips, dried moss. These components are distinguished by antibacterial characteristics.

Most active ripening occurs in large fruits. For bookmarking, it is worth selecting containers with small products. Disinfection is carried out with bleach, after which thorough drying is required. The bottoms of the boxes are covered with clean white paper and sawdust. Sawdust is taken so much that the first tier of fruits is completely covered.

It is recommended to separate the fruits by wrapping in paper. The final layer is also covered with paper and sawdust. The storage containers are sealed. Instead of these materials, cardboard spacers or synthetic substances may be used to separate the layers. Careful separation is especially important when transporting over long distances.

When the infection gets stronger, it will undermine the tone of the plant. Winter is not terrible for the fungus; when the heat returns, it will be able to continue its work. The fight against the disease, as well as its prevention, should be carried out as soon as possible. Specialized preparations are used in the spring, trying to get ahead of the full deployment of the leaves. At the end of flowering, apple trees are protected by using copper oxychloride and other compounds.

It is necessary to continue to suppress powdery mildew even after removing the apples. Then you will need a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate, diluted with liquid soap.

Scab is a no less serious disease, it deprives the apple tree of leaves and prevents fruit from pouring. Adult and young trees are equally processed in the spring with the help of "Topaz". The recommended proportion is 2 g per 10 liters of water.

The top three among fungal infections of the apple tree is closed by cytosporosis. It attacks single areas on the cortex, which does not make the disease safer. Gradually, the affected areas increase, the bark dries out along with the branches. With an unfavorable development of events, the death of the tree occurs quickly. Again, copper oxychloride preparations come to the rescue of gardeners, which are used at the time of bud swelling and immediately before flowering, as well as after it.

If we move from microscopic enemies to quite visible insects, the main enemy of the owner of an apple orchard will be a green apple aphid. It is present in all regions where there is a forage base for it. Natural biological protection - ladybug. But when it is not there, karbofos helps. From improvised means, a decoction of tobacco mixed with soap will be able to replace it.

The apple sucker also has another name - leaf blotch. It is painted in a yellow-green tone and endures even the most ferocious winter without loss of livestock. When the buds swell and blossom, it will become extremely difficult to identify the enemy in the green thicket. Then it remains to fumigate the plants with tobacco smoke or coat them with dissolved karbofos.

Apple moth is another enemy of any apple orchard. She also adapted to the climate of the Russian regions. She settles on the leaves and eats them. The key means of control are chlorophos and zolon. The leaf roller is a worthy competitor to the apple moth in terms of distribution; it bypasses a rare garden with its attention.

How to plant an apple tree, see the next video.

Depending on the age of the tree early spring and mid-autumn are considered the best times.

You can spend the summer planting of young apple trees. Knowing how to plant an apple tree in summer considering the most common mistakes, you can help the tree to transfer the landing without any problems.

August

ATTENTION! Planting an apple tree in August is unlikely to succeed. The air is still too hot. The leaves of a young apple seedling have to evaporate a lot of moisture to the detriment of root restoration.

A tree planted during this period is guaranteed to be very sick.. Even if it takes root before frost, do not flatter yourself. The plant is unlikely to survive until spring.

It is for this reason that when purchasing autumn planting material, it is not recommended to buy in nurseries those seedlings that were dug up before October.

At of a young tree, the wood should mature properly on annual growths otherwise the first hard frost will damage the branches.

If you plant an apple tree in August, then before the onset of cold weather, the seedling will not be able to stock up on enough nutrients to survive the winter.

Apple trees planted in summer are likely to be sick for a long time.

How to plant an apple tree in summer: step by step instructions

In order for the process of forming a young tree to be successful, when planting, you need to follow a few simple rules:

Step one: choose seedlings

In order for the apple orchard to please with a good harvest, you need to choose the right planting material.

Selection criteria:

Watch a video about planting an apple tree:

ADVICE! The right seedling is the first step to a bountiful and healthy harvest.

Step two: choose a landing site.

The place where the apple tree will grow is important to choose once and for all. Ideal when you have thoughtful garden layout. If there is no general plan, it is worth evaluating the possibilities of your site and the landing site.

Selected location it should be sunny or semi-shady, buildings and tall trees should not prevent the seedling from developing normally. It is desirable that the place was calm, especially protected from the north winds.

Particular attention should be paid on which of the buildings and other plants to plant an apple tree.

The buildings

The roots of an apple tree require a lot of space, not only in depth, but also in diameter.

If you do not want to constantly repair the foundation of a house or garage, you need to plant an apple tree no closer than 3 meters so that the roots have enough room to grow.

Underground communications

Underground sewer pipes, gas and water pipelines, wires and cables can also be damaged by apple tree roots.

They also need to retreat 3 meters.

Other plants

When planting apple trees with an interval of less than two meters, the trees will interfere with each other. The leaves will not have enough light, the fruits - vitamins for ripening. Besides, overcrowding creates conditions for fungal infections and pests.

Opinions about the distance between apple trees are different, and vary from 2.5 to 5 meters. Previously, this indicator for gardeners was regulated by GOST, which advised planting apple trees at a distance of 5 m from each other. Then, even when growing, the trees did not constrain each other.

Today, apple trees are grown on different rootstocks., and it depends on them at what distance to plant apple trees.

• So, half a meter is enough for columnar varieties.
• Apple trees on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks - 2-3 m.
• Medium-sized and tall apple trees should be planted, leaving an interval of 4-5m.

Choosing a place to land one should imagine in advance how it will grow.

Rules for planting tall trees.

So you can evaluate whether the new apple tree will shade other plants: flowers, vegetables, shrubs. Such an analysis will allow you to properly position the tree.

Step three: prepare the landing pit

Having decided on the location of the apple tree, you can begin to prepare it.

A planting hole should be made under the new seedling. Since it adds a pit for planting an apple tree in the summer must be prepared in advance so that the roots of a young apple tree do not burn.

Process:

• For summer planting, a young apple tree usually digs a hole about half a meter in diameter, 60 cm deep;
• The soil is being prepared for backfilling.

Watch the video about the preparation of the pit:

IMPORTANT! Nutrient soil for backfilling apple trees in summer consists of the top fertile soil layer with the addition of organic fertilizers and mineral additives.

As an organic fertilizer you can use humus, peat, rotted straw, hay, compost or biohumus.

It is not necessary to choose just one. Can be used mixture of available organic samples.

From mineral fertilizers when planting an apple tree in summer, in addition to organic matter, phosphorus and potassium are needed.

There are a large number of complex mineral fertilizers on sale.

Planting an apple tree in the ground.

If a ready-made composition is chosen in the form of a mineral fertilizer, it dosed according to instructions.

For summer planting, a mixture of superphosphate (200g), ash (0.5l) and potassium sulfate (100g) can be used as a fertilizer.

• Part of the soil is poured into a hole, filling it by about a third;
• A 1.5 meter stake is driven into the center, a meter of which goes underground, half a meter remains above the ground;
• The pit is poured abundantly with water, it will be necessary to water the hole again before planting.

Step Four: Planting an Apple Tree

The technology for planting a seedling depends on whether it has an open or closed root system..

ADVICE! When choosing between a seedling with an open and closed root system for summer planting, you should give preference to the latter. The container in which the seedling grows allows not planting, but transshipment of the apple tree. This is a more gentle procedure for a young plant.

Transshipment

Transshipment - planting method, at which the earth clod does not collapse:

• it is completely covered with soil, a hole is made in it, a little larger than an earthen clod of an apple tree;
• The seedling is brought to the planting hole;
• The apple tree must be taken by the trunk, not turned over;
• Press the sides of the container slightly;
• Remove the container above the planting hole by gently pulling down;
• Place the seedling in the hole;
• It is necessary to fill the apple tree with fertile soil to the same level to which it was covered while it was growing in a container;
• Carefully tamp the soil;
• Fix verticality with a stake.

How to plant an apple tree in summer with an open root system

• The seedling must be soaked in a root former(Kornevin, Heteroauxin, etc.) for a day;
• If the roots are dry or rotten, the damaged areas must be cut;
• Inside the landing pit, pour a hill of fertile soil;
• Place the plant on its top, straighten the roots;
• Fill up the seedling so that the root neck is 5 cm above ground level;
• Lightly compact the soil around the roots;
• Tie a tree to a stake.

Watch the video on how to plant an apple tree:

Trim or not?

There is a way by which you can restrain the growth of the vegetative part and free up forces for better root formation. This pinching - shortening growth.

In late spring - early summer, green shoots begin to grow near the apple tree. If the summer planting of an apple tree is carried out in early June, the thin tips of such shoots need to be shortened by gently pinching them off with two fingers. This can be done only as long as they are still green and the process of wood formation has not begun.

Later, before the onset of cold weather, it is not worth cutting or pinching a new apple tree.

Watch a detailed video on how to properly pinch an escape:

Watering

ATTENTION! It plays an important role in planting an apple tree in summer. At this time, it is important to cause as little damage to the root system as possible. It is impossible to strongly tamp the near-trunk circle of the seedling. The compaction of the soil, which a young tree needs, is taken over by water.

After the apple tree is planted, a mound 10-15 cm high is created around it at a distance of 70-80 cm from the trunk. This approach sets trunk circle borders, inside which you can later fertilize and water.

When planting in the summer inside the circle, you must carefully pour at least 3 buckets of water. This must be done gradually. After each bucket, the earth will settle.

It is necessary to pour the soil to the ground level each time. Before pouring the soil, you must wait until the top layer of soil dries.

As soon as the earth has ceased to fail, watering can be stopped.

An important component of summer planting is mulching. circumferential circle. For the first layer, you can use compost, biohumus, humus. When backfilling, it is necessary to retreat from the trunk by 5-7 cm. The second layer is hay, straw or mowed grass.

Apple tree planted. It's time to help the tree overcome the risks of a summer planting.

Caring for an apple tree planted in summer

From lack of nutrients and weakness during planting, the following procedures were carried out: soaking the seedling in a root former and filling the planting pit with additional fertilizers.

Until next year, the planted plant does not need fertilizer. It is important to keep the trunk circle clean and periodically add a layer of mulch material.

Mulching was done to replenish soil moisture. Until the end of the season, you should carefully monitor the moisture content of the soil.

On average, an apple tree planted in summer needs water generously once a week. A young apple tree will need one or two buckets per watering. In this mode, abundant watering should be continued for 1.5-2 months after planting.

ADVICE! If the weather is hot and dry, the number of waterings must be increased. And if the summer is damp and rainy, you can not water it. If it rained heavily, you should wait a couple of days, let the topsoil dry out.

To understand when to water a young tree, you need to dig a small hole in the mulch layer. If the ground under the mulching material is damp, watering should be postponed. If the soil is dry under the mulch, water it.

The scorching rays of the sun cause great harm to apple trees planted in summer. To protect young trees, it is necessary to shade them., especially in the middle of the day (from 11:00 to 16:00), when the sun's rays are the hottest, scalding.

Light covering material is suitable for shading.

Given the peculiarities of planting apple trees in the summer, you can successfully plant apple trees at this time of the year.

A real gardener needs to know how to plant an apple tree in the summer. But it is better to plant apple trees on time: in early spring and in mid-autumn. And knowledge to use in exceptional cases.

A young apple tree will endure a spring or autumn planting much easier and will thank you with its health, rapid growth and many tasty fruits.

In contact with

A rich apple orchard is the pride of any summer resident. It fascinates with a white fragrant cloud of flowers in spring and pleases with bright colors of ripe fruits in summer and autumn. To grow trees healthy and get good yields, you need to know the rules for planting seedlings and the features of caring for them.

When is the best time to plant an apple tree?

Apple trees can be planted in spring and autumn. Planting dates depend on the climate of a particular region. The main condition is that the plant must be at rest.

Spring is the best time for the central and northern regions

For the central and northern regions of Russia, it is preferable to plant seedlings in the spring, as soon as the air warms up and the soil thaws to a depth sufficient to dig a hole. But it is necessary to carry out planting work before the buds swell. Depending on weather conditions, the favorable period is from mid-April to May 10. During the spring planting, the trees will have time to take root well, build up the aerial part, get stronger and more easily survive the winter cold.

Apple tree seedlings are planted in early spring, before the buds swell.

You should not wait until the soil is completely thawed and the plant begins to sap flow. If planted too late, the tree will not have enough moisture, it will begin to hurt and lag behind in growth.

However, during spring planting, seedlings should be regularly looked after in the future: cover them with agrofibre during return frosts or too bright sun, observe the irrigation regime so that they do not die from drought. In addition, at the beginning of the season there is a much smaller selection of planting material than in autumn.

In the south of Russia, gardeners plant apple trees in autumn

Planting apple trees in the fall should be carried out 3 weeks before the onset of frost, so that the earth is still warm and the plants have time to take root in a new place. Autumn planting is best suited for the southern regions, where the positive air temperature remains until the beginning of November, and in winter the thermometer usually does not fall below -10 o C.

In autumn, apple tree seedlings must be planted 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather.

If it is too early to plant plants in the ground, due to the long daylight hours and high air temperatures, they may begin to grow shoots and foliage, as a result, fragile seedlings will not have time to prepare for winter and freeze. If the planting is postponed to a later date, the trees will not have enough time to take root before the onset of cold weather and freezing of the soil. And, even having managed to grow new roots and take root, seedlings in a winter with little snow, when the temperature drops, can freeze and die.

A young apple tree, planted in the fall in compliance with agricultural technology, will survive the winter without damage and will delight in the first flowering in the spring.

The optimal time for autumn planting in central Russia and in the north is September, until mid-October, in the south - October, until mid-November. When exactly depends on the variety of apple trees. After all, you can plant trees only in a state of rest, when they shed their leaves. And in varieties with different ripening periods, this period does not occur simultaneously. Weather conditions also have an impact.

Video: when is the best time to plant seedlings of fruit trees

Planting fruit trees according to the lunar calendar

Experienced gardeners carry out planting work on the site in accordance with the lunar calendar. After all, it is known that the phases of the moon and its passage through different zodiac constellations affect the development of plants. Planting on a certain lunar day can speed up their establishment and growth.

When determining the timing of planting an apple tree, the recommendations of the lunar calendar should be taken into account

The most favorable period for planting apple trees coincides with the growing moon. Lunar energy stimulates the flow of sap up the branches and leaves. It will be easy for even demanding and delicate plants to take root in a new place; by the next lunar phase, they will have time to gain strength and get stronger. Small damage to the roots at this time when planting or transplanting is not so dangerous.

Seedlings planted according to the lunar calendar will take root faster: this is not a superstition, but a proven fact

On the waning moon, the vital activity of plants slows down, the juices rush down to the roots. When planting, you can accidentally touch the root system, which will lead to a deterioration in the condition of the seedlings and even their complete death. Therefore, it is undesirable to carry out landing work on these days. It is not recommended to plant and replant fruit trees also on the new moon and full moon - they will be especially vulnerable, significantly lag behind in growth. On the waning moon, they only trim branches and form the crown of trees, and treat them for pests and diseases. By choosing, using the lunar calendar, the days when planting work is most effective, one can confidently expect that new apple trees will quickly take root and begin to bear crops very soon.

Features of planting container seedlings

Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted in the garden all season, even in summer. They are planted by transshipment, without freeing the roots from the soil. Container plants tolerate transportation more easily and take root painlessly in a new place.

Container seedlings can be planted all season, they have a 100% survival rate

In the summer, it is advisable to choose cloudy weather or evening hours for planting, after sunset. Planted apple trees at first shade from direct sunlight with a white cloth, keep the soil moist. In hot weather, spray with water in the morning and evening.

Apple tree planting scheme

The right choice of site largely determines the longevity and productivity of the apple orchard.

Where is the best place to plant

Apple trees are best planted on a flat area with a slight slope in the south, southwest or southeast directions. With this arrangement, the garden will be well lit, evenly warmed by the sun. So that gusts of wind do not damage the young plantings, and in winter the snow does not blow away, it is advisable to place them along the fence or outbuildings, but not in the shade.

When preparing a site for an apple orchard, make sure that there is enough space between the plants, they should not obscure each other

It is not recommended to plant young trees in place of uprooted old ones. The roots of a dying apple tree release phloridzin into the soil, which will inhibit seedlings. It is better to plan a landing in a small distance from this place.

Our ancestors always planted an apple tree near the house, believing that it has magical and healing properties: it gives beauty, health, attracts happiness and wealth.

Wetlands, closed pits are not suitable for an apple tree: stagnant water can cause rotting of the roots. Vigorous apple trees with a height of more than 8 m with a powerful root system that penetrates to a considerable depth can be planted in areas with water layers at least 3 m from the surface. For semi-dwarf trees with a height of 4–5 m, the location of groundwater at least 1.5 m will be optimal. Apple trees on a dwarf stock with a more superficial root system will be quite comfortable in areas with a groundwater level of 1 m.

Removal of excess water from the summer cottage can be done using surface drainage

With high watering, you can make drainage grooves or pour additional soil, raising the site by 80–100 cm. But you should know that apple trees planted on hills require frequent watering and a thick mulch layer.

For tall apple trees, a large area is required - 5–6 m must be left between them so that over time the overgrown branches do not intertwine. Dwarf trees are planted at intervals of 1 m. Columnar-type mini-apple trees can be compactly located in a small summer cottage at a distance of only 50 cm from each other.

Soil composition of the site

The best land for an apple tree is loam. On such soil, a tree with dense wood grows, frost-resistant, giving more tasty fruits. It also grows well in areas with loose sandy loamy soil, providing oxygen access to the roots. It is undesirable to plant apple trees in clay places: they develop slowly, are prone to disease, and bear little fruit. If it is not possible to choose another place for an apple orchard, you can add sand to the clay soil, 2 buckets per 1 m 2: it will become looser, allowing air and water to pass through.

The best soil for apple trees is loam, they have a large supply of nutrients and do not cause difficulties in processing.

The apple tree calmly tolerates a slight acidification of the soil, but it is oppressed on strongly acidic soils. Excessive content of compounds with an acidic reaction in the soil adversely affects the growth and development of plants. In this case, lime (500 g / m 2) is added to the site before planting.

Plants-indicators will help determine the level of soil acidity. Shepherd's purse, clover, cuff, coltsfoot grow in areas with neutral acidity. On acidic soils, sorrel, moss, horsetail, cat's foot are often found.

Selection of seedlings

You can buy healthy seedlings in fruit nurseries, where each plant is provided with a certificate indicating the variety, age and brief recommendations for planting and care. Experienced gardeners are advised to choose one- or two-year-old apple trees with a smooth stem and a developed root system. At 7-10 cm from the root neck, the trunk should be compacted - this is the grafting zone, which means that the tree is varietal. If spots are visible on the branches, the bark is damaged, mold is on the roots - such a seedling should not be taken, it will not only hurt itself, but also be a source of infection for neighboring trees. Plants purchased on the eve of frost are added dropwise in the garden or stored in a cold basement until spring.

It is better to purchase annual apple tree seedlings, they take root well and allow the gardener to form a crown to their liking

How to plant apple seedlings

If the landing is planned to be carried out in the spring, the site is prepared in the fall. For autumn planting, preparatory work begins at the end of August. The soil is dug up on a shovel bayonet, after weeds are removed, they are leveled. At a high level of acidity, the soil must be alkalized with lime (500 g / m 2). Then they dig holes: for trees of vigorous varieties - 100 cm wide, 70 cm deep; for medium height - 100x60 cm; for undersized - 90x50 cm. 3 buckets of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium salt (or 500 g of ash) are added to the fertile layer.

Before planting an apple tree seedling in a hole, the soil should be fertilized; complex organic products are usually used for this purpose.

On loamy and clay soils, and especially in areas with high groundwater levels, it is important to add loosening components. You can fill the soil with organic fertilizer AgroPrirost: 10–20 liters of biohumus are mixed with the ground before planting. Seedlings are kept for a day in a solution of Kornevin - a root formation stimulator.

Walkthrough

1. Pour a part of the earth mixed with fertilizer into the pit with a mound.
2. On the side, 5 cm from the center of the pit, a wooden stake 1 m high is driven in.
3. The seedling is placed in the hole. Spread the roots in different directions along the earthen mound. The container plant is transshipped along with a clod of earth.

   An apple tree seedling is placed in a hole, leaving the root collar above ground level.

4. Fill the hole with soil, holding the seedling by the stem and shaking it a little to tightly close the roots. Sprinkle the soil and trample down from the edge to the middle of the pit.

   The final stage of planting an apple tree: the seedling is carefully covered with fertile soil and the soil is well compacted

5. The root neck is not deepened - it should be 5 cm above the ground. Gradually, the soil will settle, and the tree will take its normal position. With surface planting, the roots of seedlings can freeze in winter and dry out in summer. With excessive deepening, the tree grows poorly and gradually dies.
6. The seedling is loosely tied with twine to a peg, making a loop in the form of a figure eight. Such a support contributes to the formation of an even trunk and keeps the fragile tree from swaying by the wind.

   The tie to the support "eight" protects the seedling from swaying by the wind

7. A hole is made around the plant, pouring an earthen roller along its edges, and pouring 2 buckets of water.
8. Well-moistened soil in the root zone is covered with a layer of hay, straw. Organic mulch improves soil structure, prevents evaporation of moisture, and inhibits the growth of weeds.
9. Immediately after planting in the spring, the seedling is pruned. During autumn planting, the forming procedures are transferred to the beginning of the next season.

How to transplant an adult apple tree

When laying an apple orchard, you should plan in advance the location of fruit trees so that they are sufficiently removed from the buildings, do not obscure each other, and they do not need to be transplanted in the future. However, when thickening the garden or erecting outbuildings on the site, it may be necessary to transplant the apple tree to another place. It is better not to touch old trees; plants no older than 6 years are suitable for transplantation.

In early spring, before the start of the growing season, or in autumn, after leaf fall, the apple tree is dug in a radius of 80 cm, part of the roots located at a greater distance from the trunk can be chopped off. However, it is impossible to deprive it of a significant part of the root system - this will inevitably lead to drying out, besides, a strong wind can tear it out and knock it down.

An apple tree with a large clod of earth (so as not to damage the roots) is carefully transferred to a new place

Transplant process

1. The dug out tree with an earthy clod is transferred to a new seat.
2. A hole is dug with a larger diameter - 1 m, so that the entire root system of the tree fits and there is free space.
3. The fertile soil layer is mixed with 2 buckets of humus, a part of the pit is filled with it and a tree is placed.
4. They fall asleep with a 10-centimeter layer of earth, tamp and fall asleep again.
5. Fill the hole with soil in layers and compact each time, which will allow you to securely fix the tree.

After planting, the apple tree is abundantly watered with 5-6 buckets of water. Then cover the root zone with a layer of hay, straw or humus. Organic mulch loosens the soil, fills it with nutrients, retains moisture during the growing season and protects the root system from freezing in winter.

Video: how to dig a tree for transportation

How to care for a seedling after planting

Planted trees need to be looked after:

• water regularly;
• feed;
• form a crown;
• carry out the prevention of diseases and pests;
• insulate for the winter.

Watering and loosening

Young plants first of all need watering. If the soil is not regularly moistened, the root system develops poorly, the seedlings begin to wither and may die. They are watered every 7 days, and in severe drought and more often, 30 liters of water.

Summer residents usually apply watering along the annular grooves made around the tree. Water is introduced from a bucket or watering can gradually so that the soil is well moistened to a depth of half a meter and moisture penetrates to the roots. In wet weather, additional watering is not carried out so as not to provoke the development of rot.

Water is brought into the irrigation grooves from a bucket, gradually, to deeply moisten the ground.

On hot days, you can give your apple trees a shower by watering them with a sprinkler hose or pulse sprayers. When sprinkling, branches, foliage, the ground under the crown are well moistened, and air humidity rises. As a result of this method of irrigation, the microclimate and the development of the root system are improved, assimilation processes are activated.

Sprinkling can be carried out only in the morning or evening hours, so that the hot sun does not burn the young leaves and less moisture evaporates.

In the industrial cultivation of apple trees, a drip irrigation system is used. Water is automatically supplied through pipes laid along the rows of plants, and through dispensers enters the soil. To make the seedlings easier to endure winter frosts, they are watered abundantly just before the cold weather.

In large orchards, drip (automatic) irrigation is used to irrigate apple trees, it is more convenient and faster than manual work.

After moistening the soil as a result of irrigation or natural precipitation, it is necessary to loosen the soil. Since the fibrous roots are located superficially, loosening is carried out shallow (8 cm). This agricultural method does not allow the formation of a soil crust, provides good aeration. After allowing the moisture to soak in, the trunk circle is covered with mulch. The mulching layer will reliably protect the root system from overheating in the summer and from freezing in the winter cold.

top dressing

Seedlings planted in fertilized soil in the first year of planting do not need additional feeding. In the first season, they have enough of those nutrients that were introduced into the soil during planting. However, in areas with infertile, depleted soil, plants do not take root well, it is necessary to increase the humus content in the soil. You can add a solution of Economic Bioconstructor (200 ml \ 5 l) containing the necessary nutrients under the tree. Or add 0.5 kg \ m 2 biohumus.

Biohumus is an environmentally friendly fertilizer that is superior in efficiency to humus

To accelerate the growth of roots and aerial parts, as well as increase stress resistance in conditions of drought or changes in air temperature, it is useful to spray the tree with a solution of the Zircon immunomodulator (0.5 ml \ 5 l) after swelling of the buds, after 2 weeks, repeat spraying.

From the spring of next year, the accustomed tree begins to be fed. During the period of intensive growth of roots and green mass, it especially needs nitrogenous substances. Urea (50 g / m 2) is embedded in the soil to a depth of 15 cm or the soil is shed with a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g / 10 l). Instead of mineral nitrogenous fertilizers, organic matter can be used: a solution of mullein, horse manure (1:10), chicken manure (1:20) is applied under a tree at the beginning of the growing season.

In spring, it is useful to feed a young apple tree with rotted manure with the addition of mineral fertilizers.

To strengthen the root system, increase resistance to frost, young plants need potassium and phosphorus. Superphosphate (30 g) and potassium salt (30 g) are scattered around the perimeter of the crown in autumn. Mineral additives can be replaced with ash (300 g / m 2). Over time, a grown tree needs more nutrients, the amount of fertilizer is increased.

On a note. By the appearance of the seedlings, one can judge which microelements they lack. With a lack of nitrogen, young leaves develop poorly, become smaller, potassium deficiency is manifested by a pale color and deformation of the foliage, with a lack of phosphorus, the petioles and veins of the leaf plate turn red.

With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn yellow, plant growth slows down.

crown formation

Forming the crown of a fruit tree begins immediately after planting. A one-year-old seedling without branching is cut at a height of 80 cm. At a two-year-old, the central conductor is shortened, the branches are trimmed: they should be 15 cm shorter than the stem. Over the next three seasons, a compact crown of a sparse-tiered type is formed, laying one row of skeletal branches each spring. When a competitor appears - a strong shoot that forms an acute angle with the conductor, you should get rid of it. It is also necessary to remove tops, branches growing inside the crown.

They begin to form a crown immediately after planting a seedling, so you will quickly give the tree the desired look

Too much pruning of a young tree causes excessive growth of shoots, reduces their winter hardiness and delays the onset of fruiting.

At the formed tree, the roots are thinned out annually, getting rid of excess and diseased branches, and old apple trees are rejuvenated by pruning.

Video: pruning apple seedlings

Frost protection

For the central and northern regions, frost-resistant varieties adapted to the cold climate should be selected. However, seedlings in the first 2-3 years should still be insulated. With a strong drop in temperature or a sharp change in frost with a thaw up to +4 ° C, the roots and aerial parts of young apple trees can freeze slightly. Spraying the crown before cooling with solutions of Silk, Ecosil, Novosil (1.2 ml \ 6 l) will help increase the viability of seedlings. The trunk circle should be covered with a 10-centimeter layer of humus, and the tree should be wrapped with agrofiber or burlap. The insulating material must pass air and water well, otherwise the bark of the tree will begin to warm up during the thaw. It would be useful to tie a prickly spruce branch on top to protect the seedling from mice and hares. Poison baits can be placed nearby, refreshing them from time to time.

Before frost, the seedling must be insulated with agrofibre, so the young tree will withstand the most severe frosts.

No less dangerous for young trees and return frosts in the spring, especially during flowering. Tender leaves and buds are incredibly sensitive to cold, the plant can stop growing and even die. Irrigation of crowns with water or smoke will help reduce losses from a sharp cold snap. When water is sprinkled, freezing, it releases heat, saving for plants. You can simply moisten the soil with warm water (+10), spending 5-7 liters per tree.

Heaps of dry grass, branches, sprinkled with damp earth, during prolonged combustion, emit a lot of smoke, as a result, the air temperature rises slightly

Prevention of diseases and pests

Even after purchasing healthy seedlings, after planting, you can sometimes notice signs of disease or pest damage. Unfavorable weather conditions, violation of agricultural technology may affect. In this case, it is necessary to carry out the processing of apple trees. It is advisable to use decoctions of herbs for this, since chemicals can burn delicate green foliage.

On young apple trees, especially those with external damage (frost cracks, wounds after pruning) as a result of infection with a bacterial burn, buds do not bloom, the tips turn black, and then all shoots, the leaves curl, the bark cracks. The most favorable environment for the spread of bacteria is dampness at a moderate temperature. With the onset of the summer heat, the disease can fade, and resume again in the fall.

Bacterial burn is considered a disease of young trees, it is easier to prevent than to treat.

To prevent the occurrence of infection, it is necessary to carefully inspect the seedlings when buying, disinfect the garden tool, and prevent thickening of the plantings. As a preventive measure, trees can be sprayed with solutions of ash (200 g \ 10 l), boric acid (10 g \ 10 l), yeast (10 g of dry yeast pour 10 l of water, add 30 g of sugar, leave for 2 hours), which suppress harmful microorganisms, increase the immunity of plants.

With a significant lesion, only antibiotics can save the apple tree. The trunk, crown and root zone are sprayed with Phytolavin solutions (20 ml \ 10 l), Tetracycline No. tab.\ 5 l). The treatment is carried out at all phases of the growing season, alternating antibiotics with fungicides Skor (2 ml \ 10 l), Acrobat (4% solution).

The most dangerous pests of apple seedlings are aphids. Dry weather contributes to the rapid increase in the number of insects. In immature young growth, literally covered with sucking insects, the leaves turn yellow and curl, the branches dry up, and growth stops.

Aphid colonies stick around the shoots, leaves of the apple tree and suck out the juice, greatly weakening the plants.

To combat the pest in early spring, when the buds are just beginning to open, it is necessary to treat the trees with solutions of ash (200 g \ 10 l), nettles (fill the bucket halfway with grass, fill it with water and leave it in the sun for a day. Then filter it, add 100 g of soap and spray trees). In case of severe infection, the Fitoverm biological product (15 ml \ 10 l), which does not cause foliage burns, will help to cope with pests. Spraying of apple trees is carried out several times per season with an interval of 2 weeks.

It is better to use herbal remedies for the treatment of seedlings, if this does not help, you need to switch to biological products

If you want to grow an apple orchard on your site or plant just one such tree, and at the same time get abundant harvests, then you should first figure out how to do it right: how to plant an apple tree when exactly to plant in the spring, which place to choose, which scheme to follow, etc. We will talk about this and much more below.

Did you know? Our ancestors always ate the fruits of wild apple trees. The charred remains of these trees have been found by archaeologists in lake sites of the Neolithic period (in Switzerland). But the domesticated apple tree comes from the territories of modern Kyrgyzstan and southern Kazakhstan. There and now you can find the wild Sievers apple tree, from which the popular domestic tree comes today.

Planting an apple tree in spring: when to start work

The advantage of spring planting is that before the onset of frost, the trees have time to get stronger and more easily survive the drop in temperature. The answer to the question "When exactly to plant apple trees in the spring?" largely depends on where you live. For middle latitudes, the landing period falls on mid-April, and for the northern regions - at the beginning of May. To check the readiness of the soil, simply dig it with a shovel: the bayonet should enter the soil quite easily. Do not wait for the soil to completely thaw or the sap flow to begin. If planted too late, the tree will not have enough moisture, it will begin to hurt and lag behind in growth. Everything must be done before the buds open. Perhaps the seedlings will lose their qualities through a sharp jump in temperature. This is especially true for areas with early drought. It is very important to choose the right time for planting apple seedlings in the spring, since the favorable outcome of growing a tree largely depends on this.

Important! Trees planted in the spring need constant and regular watering. Insufficient watering can cause a noticeable drying of the weakened root system, which ultimately will lead to uneven development of the under- and above-ground parts of the seedlings.

Having decided on the apple variety, you can go for planting material. Spontaneous markets are not very suitable for this, since in such places there is a possibility of buying a completely wrong variety or weakened plants that have been stored incorrectly. Therefore, it is better to contact a specialized store or nursery. When buying, be sure to inspect the bark of the selected specimen: it must be undamaged. At the time of planting apple seedlings in spring, they should have 1.5 m of growth, a two- or three-year-old developed root system (at least 3 skeletal branches 30-35 cm long) and several branches (minimum 3, 50 cm each). In a quality seedling, the cut will be light and juicy, and any signs of pests and diseases should be completely absent. Often the stem of the plant is already beginning to stiffen by the time of sale.

Did you know? On the territory of Kievan Rus, cultivated apple trees first appeared in the 11th century. In 1051 (the reign of Yaroslav the Wise), a whole garden was planted, which later became known as the garden of the Kiev-Pechersk Lavra. In the 16th century, apple trees began to grow in the north of Rus'.

Choosing a place for planting seedlings

Before planting an apple tree in the spring, take care of a suitable place. Choose a site with good lighting (preferably not on the south side). and make sure it is protected from the wind, as this will improve insect pollination and yield. Also be sure to make sure that the groundwater in this place is deep and over time they will not begin to wash the roots of the tree. Apple trees prefer fertile, light, loamy soils.

How to plant an apple tree in spring, step by step instructions

To make it easier to figure out how to plant an apple tree in spring, we offer you step-by-step instructions for this process.

How to prepare the soil for planting an apple tree in spring

Of course, you can simply, without any preparation, bury the seedlings in the ground, but then there is a high probability that they will not take root or the yield will not be too high. Therefore, it is advisable to dig up the chosen place in advance (even at the end of summer / early autumn), and loosen the top layer of soil immediately before planting trees.

Important!When you decide to plant a large number of apple trees in your area, a year before that, it is better to sow lupine, mustard, phacelia or other green manure plants in the chosen place. Let them grow without blooming and mow. Do not remove cut grass, leaving it on the site until digging.

If the soil is clayey, it will not be able to pass moisture and the apple trees will quickly wither. To avoid this, raise the surface level by 80 cm using compost, coarse river sand and peat.

Planting hole preparation

Preparation of a pit for planting an apple tree can be carried out in the spring (a week before planting) or even in the fall. This procedure is very important, because it will not just be a place for roots, but a nutrient medium for plants for the next few years.

That's why:

• Dig the required number of holes 70 cm deep and about 60 cm in diameter.
• Provide drainage if necessary.
• Fix the stake in the center, leaving 30-40 cm on the surface.
• Add peat, rotted manure, humus and compost to the extracted soil.
• Completely fill the hole and pour a slide on top.
• Moisten the soil thoroughly.

Speaking about how to plant an apple tree in spring, it is also necessary to add a scheme for planting seedlings to the step-by-step guide.

It includes the following steps:

• To begin, place the roots in water for a few hours before planting.
• Then, in a previously prepared hole, dig a hole of the desired size (the rhizome should fit comfortably).
• Place the seedling in the hole with the stake on the south side of the plant.
• Straighten out the roots.
• Pour warm water over them.
• Cover the roots with earth before the moisture is absorbed. Make sure that the place where the trunk and rhizome connects is 4-5 cm above the ground.
• Wait a bit and tamp the soil with a shovel.
• Tie the apple tree to a support (near the root and on top).
• Water the hole (40 liters of water is added at a time), and then do not water for about a week.
• Mulch the trunk circle with sawdust or pine needles.
• Trim to form a crown.

Did you know?When planting apple trees in both spring and autumn, it is necessary to observe a certain distance between the trees. It depends on the type of tree. Previously, most often, large-growing apple trees were planted (at a distance of 6 m from each other). These varieties are planted now, but fruit trees on a dwarf rootstock have become more popular. This is due to their compact size, which is very convenient for harvesting. They can be planted at a distance of 4 m from each other. Columnar varieties are often grown, keeping a distance of 2 m between them.