Corking. This is a non-communicable disease. Brown cork growths appear on the bottom of the leaves. Attention: thrips leave a similar picture of the lesion.
Control and prevention measures: The causes of the disease are as follows - high humidity with constantly damp roots; strong fluctuations in air humidity and nutrient content in the soil; as well as the attack of thrips, spider or multi-claw mites.

Viruses. Viral diseases of pelargonium cause leaf discoloration, yellowing of leaf veins, browning of leaves, variegation, and growth retardation.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are removed. Before cutting cuttings and putting pelargoniums for the winter, suspicious plants are discarded. The virus is most often transmitted by cuttings.

Stem and leaf bacteriosis. On sunny days, individual leaves wither, although the earthen ball is sufficiently moistened. Then these leaves turn yellow and the entire shoot dies. Its base is affected by black rot. Another symptom is less common and mostly on older plants: penetrating oily spots appear on the leaves, which then turn golden brown.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are removed immediately. Do not use them for cuttings. For the remaining plants, Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Binoram, Planriz, Fitolavin are used for prevention with caution Bordeaux liquid, Abiga-Peak, Albit.

Bacteriosis. On the stem, often below ground level, fleshy light growths form. They almost do not affect the health of the plant.
Control and prevention measures: The growths are removed. Do not take cuttings from affected plants. Do not use the substrate and containers from under them for growing pelargoniums. For the remaining plants, Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Binoram, Planriz, Fitolavin are used for prevention with caution Bordeaux liquid, Abiga-Peak, Albit.

Root and stem rot. With stem rot, the root neck of seedlings and cuttings becomes greenish-black, weeping and rotting. With root rot - the leaves become pale green and dull. They turn yellow and wither. The roots are soft and rotten. The root sheath is separated from the core, so that the roots look frayed. Zoospores of the fungus spread only in a humid environment.
Control and prevention measures: The spread of the disease is facilitated by low acidity of the soil. The plant is kept as dry as possible, watered rarely, but plentifully. Use coarse-grained substrates. Spray plants with biological preparations Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Fitolavin, Baktofit, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Binoram, Planriz, Sternifag, with caution Fundazol. When planting and transplanting, use the biopreparation Glyokladin, pickle the ground with the Healthy Land preparation.

Verticillium wilt. The disease most often affects large-flowered pelargoniums. At first, the leaves wither, and sometimes only halves or sectors. The leaves dry up and remain hanging on the stem. Brownish vessels are visible on the cut of the stem. The roots are not damaged.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are destroyed along with the substrate and containers. For the remaining plants, Alirin-B, Gamair preparations are used for prevention, for soil cultivation - Healthy Land.

Leaf spotting. Dark green, later turning brown, rounded spots appear on the leaves with a dark, slightly raised edge and an olive-brown bloom of sporangia in the center. The disease often affects hybrids of zonal pelargonium and large-flowered pelargonium, especially in rainy years in the garden or with high humidity in the greenhouse.
Control and prevention measures: Sick leaves are cut off, the air humidity is reduced, and the foliage is less often sprayed. In case of severe damage, you can spray with Fitosporin-M, Gamair, Chistotsvet, Rorval, Baimat, Bordeaux mixture and Abiga-Peak preparations (with caution there may be burns).

Gray rot. Affected leaves and peduncles are covered with brown, weeping spots of rot. At high humidity, a gray coating of sporangia is formed. The disease is more common in warm, damp and cloudy weather.
Control and prevention measures: Old leaves and other dying plant tissues are removed. During the winter months the plants are kept dry. In the greenhouse, the air humidity is reduced and the night temperature is maintained above the dew point. Of the chemicals, drugs are Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz, Gliocladin, Sternifag, Skor, Chistotsvet, Topaz, Fundazol, Rovral, Ronilan, Euparen.

Rust of pelargonium zonal. Light spots appear on the leaves above, and brown pads arranged in circles below. The spores of the fungus spread through the air. They need water to germinate.
Control and prevention measures: Sick leaves are promptly removed. The plant is kept as dry as possible, watered rarely, but plentifully. Use coarse-grained substrates. Spores remain in the soil for 2 years, and if new spores are not allowed to form, cutting off the leaves in a timely manner, a complete recovery occurs. You can slow down the development of the disease by spraying plants with Fitosporin-M, Fundazol, Topaz, Strobi, Bordeaux liquid.

Miscellaneous mites. The leaves on the tops of the shoots do not grow, coarsen and often twist down. The petioles and the underside of the leaves are covered with brown scab. The appearance of glassy-white mites (0.3 mm long) is facilitated by heat and dampness.
Control and prevention measures: Mother liquors should be regularly inspected for pests. With a slight lesion, plants can be treated with soap or mineral oil. In case of strong treatment with Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Lightning, Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos-500, Ditox, Bi-58, Karate Zeon, Kungfu, Antiklesch, Spark-M, Actellik, Omayt, Thiovit Jet, Zolon, etc.

Ticks. Yellowish speckles appear on the leaves, later - extensive discolored and dried areas. Small (0.2-0.5 mm) mites live on the underside of the leaves. The appearance of ticks is promoted by high temperature and dry air.
Control and prevention measures: With a slight lesion, plants can be treated with soap or mineral oil. In case of strong treatment with Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Lightning, Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos-500, Ditox, Bi-58, Karate Zeon, Kungfu, Antiklesch, Spark-M, Actellik, Omayt, Thiovit Jet, Zolon, etc.

Larvae of fungal mosquitoes. The cuttings do not take root and die from rot at the base of the stem. Glassy-white larvae about 7 mm long, with a black head, are visible in the stems. They live in damp, humus-rich soil and from there penetrate the stems of plants. Most often, seedlings and cuttings at the age of two to three weeks suffer from them.
Control and prevention measures: Seedlings and cuttings immediately after emergence or planting should be treated with Antonem-F, Mukhoed, Thunder-2, Aktara, Aktellik.

Thrips. Cork growths appear on the underside of the leaves. Young leaves are deformed, the growth point is curved. Flowers with spots; petals turn brown at the edges. In the flowers, in the region of the stamens, thrips actively multiply.
Control and prevention measures: For prevention, sticky blue traps are hung in greenhouses. This is especially important for young plants, since even single insects can disfigure them. For the complete destruction of thrips, early and repeated application of insecticides is necessary. Sprayed with drugs Aktara, Akarin, Actellik, Biotlin, Confidor, Fufanon, Fitoverm, Tanrek, Iskra, Vertimek, Bi-58, Bison, Commander, Tsvetolux, Alatar, Parachute, Doctor, etc. After 4-5 days, the treatment is repeated, since insecticides do not affect all stages of development of these insects.

Aphid. The leaves curl, turn yellow, with a strong lesion, sticky secretions of aphids are visible on them.
Control and prevention measures: Single colonies of aphids are cut off along with the leaves or washed off with soap and water; in case of severe damage, they are treated with Antitlin, Tobacco dust, Actellik, Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktara, Decis, Tanrek, Spark, Bison, Biotlin, Commander, etc.

Caterpillars. Gnags appear on the leaves, and black feces of caterpillars are often visible.
Control and prevention measures: Plants are periodically inspected, especially in the evenings, and caterpillars are collected. Biological insecticides: Lepidocide, Bitoxibacillin, Bicol; chemical: Bi-58 New, Fufanon, Zolon, Actellik, Fitoverm, Arrivo, Tzipi, Tsiper and others.

Whitefly. On the lower surface of the leaves (most often in large-flowered pelargonium), adult white-winged insects with a diameter of 2-3 mm and their wingless pale yellow larvae are visible. In the tobacco whitefly, the wings are folded over the abdomen in a "house", while in the greenhouse whitefly it is more flat. With severe damage, the leaves turn yellow. They have sticky discharge.
Control and prevention measures: In mass plantings, sticky yellow traps are hung. They are treated with preparations based on potassium soap or preparations such as Aktara, Actellik, Iskra, Inta-Vir, Karbofos, Fufanon, Tanrek, Zubr, Biotlin, etc.

Like all indoor flowers, geraniums are rarely exposed to disease. If she is provided with the right fit and the right care. Pests also rarely infect a flower without leading to its death.

Geranium is a common indoor flower. She is unpretentious, and does not require much attention and labor in care. With improper care, insufficient lighting, it can be affected by diseases and pests.

If, with proper care of geraniums, flowering does not occur, you should carefully examine the flower. Perhaps pests or diseases have appeared on it, measures must be taken to prevent it.

If the geranium does not bloom, you need to carefully examine it.

Diseases are divided into 2 types: fungal and bacterial.

The most common fungal diseases include:

• gray rot;
• alternariosis;
• rhizoctonia stem and root rot;
• verticillium wilt;
• rust;
• root and stem late blight of geranium;
• rotting of the stem and roots;
• dropsy geranium.

Brown spots form on leaves and stems, especially on the lower ones, located close to the soil.

It may appear due to an excess of moisture, poor ventilation of the premises, frequent spraying and an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

When the first signs of the disease are detected, they should be treated with fungicides: Vitaros, Fundazol. In the case of cuttings, they should be put in the same solution for 30 minutes to prevent rot.

Pathogen alternariosis is a mushroom. Spots with a white coating appear on the leaves of the plant. Basically, the disease spreads due to high humidity.

It is necessary to perform proper care at home: provide ventilation, loosening the soil, moderate watering and spraying. Indoor flower must be treated with fungicides: Ridomil, Gold.

Signs rhizoctonia rot serve: an excess of fertilizers, waterlogging of the soil, lack of ventilation, lack of light and heat. Signs of the disease are spots in the lower part of the plant. The methods of struggle are the implementation of the correct agricultural technology, the reduction of watering, the treatment of geraniums with fungicides: Vitaros, Rovral.

verticillium wilt geraniums appear in the form of yellowed leaves and inflorescences. It can occur at elevated temperatures, drying out of the soil. When such signs appear, dry parts of the plant should be removed, the soil should be moderately moistened, and it should not be allowed to dry out. For prevention, you need to treat with Trichodermin.

Pelargonium appears with yellow and brown spots on the leaves. Then they dry up and fall off. When these signs appear, you should remove the infected leaves, stop irrigation, spraying, reduce air humidity, treat with Topaz.

Geraniums appear at the bottom of the plant and root system. The reasons may be strong moisture, lack of lighting, thickening of the plant, excess fertilizer in the soil. For prevention, Pelargonium Ridomil should be treated.

The best known bacterial disease is bacterial rot. Watery spots form on the leaves, as a result of which they dry out, but remain on the plant.

When a disease is detected, it is necessary to remove the affected parts of the plant, stop spraying, add minerals with a potassium content. Treat the plant with Oxyx.

Disease dropsy does not apply to either bacterial or viral, is not transmitted from one tree to another. It is formed mainly on ivy-leaved pelargoniums in the form of cones on the underside of the leaves. The disease develops due to waterlogging of the soil, moist and cold air.

To prevent the appearance of new edema on the leaves, it is necessary to change the drainage, reduce watering, spraying, and create airing of the flower.

Pelargonium pests and their control

Like many plants, indoor pelargonium can be subject to various pests. They can appear both in winter and autumn, regardless of whether the flower is grown in an apartment, on the street or in a room on the windowsill. The most common are:

• caterpillars;
• whitefly;
• spider mite;
• slugs;
• termites;
• nematode.

To combat insect pests, the use of drugs is suitable:

• Aspirin. The tablet must be diluted in a bucket of water, then spray the leaves once a month.
• An effective agent Messenger is dissolved in water and watered the soil on which geranium grows.
• Marathon should be given with the appearance of aphids, whiteflies. A dry substrate is poured onto the soil around the plant, then poured abundantly with water. The procedure is performed once a month.
• Monterey will do to fight caterpillars. It is diluted with water, then all parts of the plant are sprayed. Spray less than once a week.

Leaf problems

Many amateur gardeners may encounter various problems when breeding pelargonium: leaves dry, curl inward, spots appear, may not bloom. If left untreated, the leaves and trunk may wither, turn black, the foliage begins to curl or twist, darken along the edge. It is necessary to deal with the problem.

Various reasons can contribute to these problems:

1. cramped pot, which does not correspond to the size of the root system. If the roots are crowded in the pot, they will not develop, which will lead to the drying of the leaves.
2. Wrong in autumn and winter. It is necessary to maintain a constant temperature of 15 degrees.
3. Wrong watering geraniums can lead to drying leaves.
4. A lack of nitrogen and an excess of potassium can cause the leaves to curl inward.
5. lack of light. It is best to choose a lighted place for the plant. But you should avoid direct sunlight, as burns on the leaves may appear.
6. Pests and diseases that cause leaves to curl and turn yellow.

Yellowing leaves - a sign of lack of lighting

If a houseplant for a long time does not pick up color, so there are reasons:

1. Pot, not suitable in size. In a large pot, geraniums will grow for a long time until the root system fills all the free space, therefore, flowering will not occur.
2. Damage to the root system.
3. Pests and diseases contribute to the lack of flowering.
4. Too much or too little moisture.
5. The time of winter dormancy at the flower does not come.

To grow a flowering geranium, you need give her the right care. It consists: in a well-lit place, moderate watering, transplanting into a pot of suitable size, timely pruning of the plant, a period of winter dormancy, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Since geranium is an unpretentious plant, it will not be difficult to take care of it, the main thing is to follow all the rules of care in a timely manner.

Even beginners will be able to grow room pelargonium. With proper care, she will decorate the house with her beautiful flowers and fragrance.

It is one of the most popular plants for breeding. Plant it in pots, boxes. Planting can be done in open ground. Despite the widespread cultivation, many mistakes can be made when caring for it. This provokes geranium diseases and other problems. Most often, they can be prevented by setting optimal lighting, humidity levels, and monitoring soil acidity. It is also important to deal with pests in a timely manner.

Common Problems

Indoor geraniums do not always grow perfectly. When growing it, problems may arise. Most often, they are provoked by improper care. In order to improve the situation, it is necessary to correct the errors.

The reasons for the appearance of yellow leaves on the plant:

• If only the edges of the leaves dry up, a yellow color appears on them, this may be due to insufficient watering;
• If not only yellow areas appear on it, but general lethargy is also observed, this is caused by an excess of moisture;
• Yellowness and falling of the lower leaf plates may indicate a lack of lighting;
• The problem may be caused by the fact that the flower is planted in a box or pot that is too narrow;
• Yellowness is sometimes a side factor after a change of location and transplant.

To get rid of yellowness, it is important to identify all errors during care and landing, and correct them. If the problem persists, it may be caused by other causes: pests, leaf diseases.

Reasons for not blooming:

• Low temperature, lack of lighting. Corrected by purchasing additional fluorescent lamps;
• Overly fertile soil. Corrected by self-preparation of the necessary soil;
• An overly large box that provokes the growth of the root system, but slows down flowering;
• Neglect of regular pruning;
• Insufficient nutrition.

Reasons for the drying of the plant:

• When the tips of the leaf plate dry out, the cause, most often, is a lack of water;
• When the geranium itself dries out, the cause may be a fungal disease. The leaves are covered with red-brown spots. Then they begin to dry out and fall off. A five percent solution of Bordeaux composition helps. It is also possible to carry out the treatment with phytosporin twice, with a break of a week.

These are the most common growing problems. They are not always provoked by improper care. Sometimes they can be caused by pests and diseases. More serious measures will be required for a cure.

Geranium diseases

Geranium diseases are common. They can be caused, among other things, by improper care. The algorithm of actions in each case is different. Consider the most common diseases:

• Mushroom Botrytis. Occurs when there is too much moisture. With it, spots of a gray tint with particles of fluff are observed against the background of general lethargy. Then dead spots form on the leaf blades. They are distinguished by concentric rings, the shape of the letter V. The stems are covered with zones of brown, indicating the defeat. These zones indicate the likelihood of subsequent decay and leaf fall;
• Root rot. It occurs due to a fungal disease. First, the leaf blades begin to turn yellow. Then brown areas appear. Small areas of black may also be observed. A white or gray coating is formed on the plant, similar to a cobweb. Over time, both the root system and the stems will turn brown and begin to rot and deform. From the outside, it seems that parts of the geranium are saturated with moisture;
• bacterial disease. It is caused by microbes. Brown V-shaped spots appear on the leaf blades. There may also be streaks of a dark tone, drying of the edges. With a complete defeat, the crail takes on a lethargic appearance, begins to fall off. Then dieback occurs: blackening of the stems, the general process of decay;
• Leaf rust. Caused by a fungal infection. The appearance of rusty-yellow zones is observed. Pillows are formed, which, when opened, begin to secrete spores. Severe fungal infection causes yellowing of the leaves and their subsequent fall;
• Viral infections. The symptoms of this disease are different. This is the occurrence of ring spots, and stunting, and the formation of depressions of a purple-brown hue;
• Spotting of leaf plates. Caused by fungal diseases. If this is a disease called alternariosis (named for the pathogen fungus), spots and bubbles appear on the bottom of the plates. Later they become sunken, brown and yellow. The affected areas resemble scattered salt. Then the fall begins. Cercosporosis provokes the appearance of sunken places of a pale shade. Later they turn grey. Then disputes form. In the affected areas, places of a dark shade of an elevated, in the center, appearance are formed;
• Edema. It is characterized by the formation of chlorosis places, which are transformed into bubbles with water. These places, in late time, begin to acquire a brown tint. They entail yellowing and falling off. The reason for the appearance of edema is insufficient temperature in combination with soil with excessive moisture.

Diseases can be prevented and eliminated in the early stages. This often does not require large-scale measures.

Prevention and treatment of diseases

Prevention prevents problems from occurring. Geranium is a flower resistant to diseases and pests. Therefore, caring for her is relatively simple:

• Compliance with the correct temperature regime;
• Optimal lighting;
• Soil moisture control;
• Ensuring timely feeding;
• Regular inspections for damage, stains.

Treatment of diseases must be combined with the following measures:

• Removal of affected and dried areas;
• Cleaning the soil from emerging weeds;
• Watering should not be top. It is better to plan it in the morning, before 11 o'clock;
• The distance between the geraniums is necessary for the desired level of ventilation;
• In cold weather, it is required to limit the level of watering. This advice is also relevant in case of excessive humidity;
• The processing is done very carefully. Before this, you need to wash your hands;
• When purchasing fertilizer, it is necessary to ensure that it does not contain a lot of nitrogen;
• For prevention, high-quality soil drainage and improvement of its composition are necessary. Water should not stagnate;
• Insects must be destroyed in a timely manner.

Various formulations are used for treatment. For example, fungicidal compounds that fight fungus.

Common pests

Geranium pests: aphids, whiteflies, spider mites. They usually occur when the air is dry. Treatment for them includes washing the geranium and then treating it with insecticides.

Another common attack is the nematode. It provokes the appearance of nodes on the rhizome. Treatment is useless. Geranium will need to be destroyed, as well as the soil under it. The soil where the nematode was located cannot be used for subsequent plantings.

How to process geranium

The following drugs are used to treat crail:

• Aspirin. Actual when insects appear. The drug tablet dissolves in 8 liters of water. Then the composition is sprayed onto leaf blades every 21 days;
• Messenger. The composition of the drug includes proteins of natural origin. They are necessary to increase the immune properties of geraniums. This stimulates the independent struggle of the plant with pests. The drug is used according to the instructions. It is introduced into the ground when watering by means of a watering can;
• Marathon. Helps to fight aphids, mealybugs, mushroom mosquitoes, whiteflies. The drug is applied to the soil, after which it is watered. Applied once a season. Its effect persists for 90 days;
• Monterey. Helps with caterpillars. It is a liquid composition that needs to be diluted with water. The resulting product is sprayed onto the plant. Applied once a week.

It is important for plant owners to constantly examine it for defects, spots, yellowing, as this helps to recognize the disease in a timely manner and begin to fight it.

They say that pelargonium is an unpretentious plant and its main advantage is that it is “tasteless” for most pests. I thought so too. “Well, I know what a whitefly looks like,” I thought, “if I look at the plants more often, then I will see both whitefly nymphs and adults and I can handle this matter with Aktara.”
For a long time, I was simply sure that it was the whitefly that was the most terrible enemy of pelargoniums, such an enemy that was not squeamish, chewing everything. Even the tasteless bitter healing geranium. But it turned out that there are much more such “not squeamish” and “omnivorous” people.

Disease or pest?

In the summer, my pelargoniums stood on the street, and in the fall I began to bring them into the house. My first mistake was NOT transferring them to a smaller pot (even though my pots are all small) and NOT changing the soil. As a result, together with the soil, I brought a lot of interesting things into the house: from ants to caterpillars. For example, I removed mushroom mosquitoes for quite a long time.
After overcoming a flock of mosquitoes, I already breathed a sigh of relief: the plants are clean, I found a place for everyone. And to whom I didn’t find it, I persuaded my husband to make me a shelving unit with lighting.
Where do misfortunes come from? Now they are safe and can winter in peace. But it was not there.

First, on many pelargoniums, the lower leaves began to turn yellow and die. "Bullshit" - I thought - "Autumn, plants slow down growth, the natural death of the lower leaves. No problem. It'll be over soon." In principle, everything, of course, is so. And yellowing and falling of the lower leaves in the fall (and not in the fall) is a normal process. But perhaps it's not just yellowing and dying. Perhaps this is the beginning of some kind of bad luck. However, after examining the leaves from above and not finding whiteflies on them, I calmed down.

And the process went on. The leaves are no longer just turning yellow. They rather acquired a gray-brown color, were dry. Withered, turned brown at the edges, fell off or hung on dried stems, not only the lower leaves, but also the upper ones too. And only freshly released leaves remained seemingly quite healthy.

gray-brown dry leaves of pelargonium - the result of the work of a tick

There are many similar photos on the Internet. People ask "What's wrong with my geranium?", "Help save pelargonium", "How to treat pelargonium?" and so on. In most cases, looking at a similar picture, it is advised to treat the plant with a systemic fungicide. Yes, it does look like some kind of fungal disease. I treated pelargoniums with Alirin-B fungicide. I cannot say that it has become much better, but the process of drying the leaves has slowed down a little. I calmed down again, but not for long. When Alirin-B did not help much, I tried to drown out this “fungal attack” with a series of treatments with Fitomporin-M. The effect was the same.

Ivy pelargoniums were especially affected. I could not save some varieties: even the cuttings taken from the mother plants did not want to take root. But I think I finally found the source of the problem.

Ticks are not just a problem for fuchsias and roses. Ticks settle on pelargonium too!

Ticks that suck juices from plants are very small! They cannot be seen with the naked eye! These are not spider mites, which entangle the plant with such a web that you can’t even see the leaves. These are not red ticks that crawl along the trunk of a plant and you can make a movie about their life and migration. These microscopic mites 0.2-0.5 mm in size do not detect their presence in any way. But you will see their "work" in all its glory.

Like all mites, (not blood-sucking) they prefer dry air and heat. With the beginning of the heating season, our apartments are a real paradise for them! Dry, warm, no rain, and air movement is kept to a minimum.

It is they who, sucking the juices from the leaves, leave behind a picture as after a fungal disease. Dry brown-gray leaf, slow growth and development of the plant. When the mites get to the most tender upper leaves, they turn black, droop, hang on the stems.

Take a healthy-looking leaf from a diseased plant and look through it into the sunlight. If you see lighter tiny dots on the leaf, it is most likely that this plant is carrying a tick.

It all starts with yellowish specks, then large discolored and dried areas already grow in this place, the leaves fall off, the plant dies.

How to save pelargonium?

Ticks are not sensitive to all insecticides. For them, the industry has developed a special line: acaricides. These include drugs Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Lightning, Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos-500, Ditox, Bi-58, Karate Zeon, Kungfu, Antiklesch, Iskra-M, Aktellik, Omayt, Thiovit Jet, Zolon, Oberon, Sunmite and others. It is useless to treat a plant from a tick with “ordinary” insecticides!

Attention! Many flower growers say that ticks die quickly, but you need to be careful with drugs. Firstly, they can be quite toxic (for example, my head hurts terribly from Fufanon. Yes, and they smell like Fufanon, that Actellik literally fills the whole house!), And secondly, ticks quickly get used to the drug if you use it wrong.

Health to your plants!

› tags: / / /

Comments

Valeria, hello!

I read and read and I’m upset that I didn’t understand myself, but how did you defeat them all the same? The most pleasant have little from such poisons in sensations. How to save buns from such muck? Lost so many varieties last year...
You know, I wouldn't even think it was a tick. What kind of drug helped, otherwise there are so many of them that I don’t know what to do with the choice, in the sense of what to choose so that it helps for sure ...

Thanks for the answer.

Regards, Nika

1. Roman, as an amateur gardener, I sympathize with you, but you need to not only fight the whitefly, but also write humorous stories. We are dying of laughter. Good luck on all fronts.

2. Valerie, thank you so much for this article! Two days ago I replenished the collection with new varieties, one cutting turned out to have the same symptoms as you describe. At first I didn’t even realize what was the matter - well, the sheet dries out - new ones will come out. And now I looked at the light - for sure, a tick, all the leaves are in small bright spots! How timely I read about your misadventures! Now I’m thinking: it’s probably better to throw away this cutting, and treat the collection with fitoverm for prevention.

3. Valeria, thank you for your support! In a panic, I already managed to process everything with fitoverm at once. And now I bought a Danish fufanon-nova. I think he is stronger. And that sick stalk came to life a little after fitoverm, a growth point appeared. I hope that I will finish off that tick)))))). We have not even heard about the newest products in our stores))))).

Indoor geranium is a beautiful and unpretentious plant that our grandmothers loved. Thanks to selection work, new varieties have appeared with the original shape of flowers and leaves, fantasy coloring, miniature and dwarf size.

However, the problems in growing remained the same - geranium diseases and pests invariably overtake the plant if the rules of care are not followed and agricultural practices are violated. However, you should not be afraid of them - it is enough to adopt methods of struggle and treatment that will be useful to both a novice and an experienced grower.

Most often, geranium suffers precisely from fungi and bacteria that multiply due to disruption of irrigation, high humidity, or an excess of nitrogen in the soil. The causes of infection can also be diseased bushes brought into the house without mandatory quarantine, as well as spores in a purchased substrate that has not been disinfected.

rust on leaves

This disease manifests itself as yellow and brown spots of various sizes that appear on the leaves. Quite often you can see pads with spores of the fungus, which, after opening, spread the infection to other plants.

Over time, the leaves dry on the diseased bush, and in the advanced stage, the bush throws off the deciduous mass and fades. If appropriate measures are not taken, the geranium begins to rot, blacken and completely dies.

Treatment of leaf rust is advisable only in the initial stages of the lesion using the following measures:

• Isolation of the plant from other bushes and complete removal of the affected parts;
• Watering geraniums only in the pan;
• The use of fungicides (colloidal sulfur, 0.5% solution of Bordeaux mixture);
• Treatment of bushes that were next to a diseased specimen with Acrex or Kratan suspensions.

It is important to observe maximum sterility so that the spores of the fungus do not spread to other flowers.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease, the main symptom of which is a powdery coating on the leaves, similar to flour. The first foci can be subtle, they appear randomly on the geranium leafy mass in the form of small spots. As the infection spreads, the entire plate is covered with plaque. The appearance of powdery mildew is promoted by increased humidity in the room, combined with high temperature.

Geranium treatment involves the complete removal of infected leaves and the isolation of the diseased plant from the rest, since powdery mildew is easily transmitted. Then the bush is treated with preparations:

• A solution of copper sulfate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• soda ash;
• 5% solution of laundry soap;
• colloidal sulfur;
• Any available fungicide.

Root rot and alternariosis

Root rot occurs due to the defeat of a geranium bush by a fungus. At risk are plants that suffer from an excess of moisture in the soil, frequent spraying, poor ventilation in the room or overfeeding with nitrogen.

You can notice the signs of damage by root rot on the leaves - they turn yellow, and then turn brown or blacken. Parts of the geranium are covered with a light cobweb-like bloom, the bush itself withers and withers.

Geranium affected by root rot can be saved if appropriate measures are taken:

• Eliminate top dressing of the bush with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content;
• Remove and completely destroy infected parts;
• Constantly loosen the soil, reduce watering;
• Treat the geranium with a fungicide (Bordeaux mixture, "Fundazol").

If the pelargonium continues to wither, it is recommended to transplant the plant with a complete replacement of the soil with a new one. It is important to sterilize the pot by dousing it with boiling water or by treating it with a solution of potassium permanganate. The root system must be carefully examined and all diseased roots removed.

Alternariosis manifests itself in the form of spots with a white coating, arising as a result of a long stay of geraniums in conditions of high humidity. If infection with this type of fungus is suspected, treatment with fungicides (Ridomil, Gold-M) is recommended.

Blackleg

This fungal disease affects the geranium stem - a dark spot first appears above ground level, and then spreads upward, provoking a bush fracture. The black leg often occurs due to too heavy soil, systematic overflow and lack of drainage in the pot.

The geranium bush affected by the black leg cannot be treated, but the variety can be saved. To do this, cut off the top or side stems of the plant for rooting. For the prevention of cuttings before planting, you need to soak in a fungicide solution.

Stem and root late blight

The causative agent of the disease is the phytophthora fungus. The main signs of the disease are wilting and curling of leaves, similar to a consequence of lack of water. It is not uncommon to see dark sunken spots that have appeared on the leaves or stem. With increased humidity on the spots there is a plaque in the form of a fluff.

The danger of late blight lies in its manifestation in the later stages, when the plant is no longer amenable to treatment. However, when infecting small areas of the geranium bush, you can try to save:

• Transplant into a new disinfected soil;
• Treat with the preparations "Previkur", "Profit Gold", "Ridomil";
• Reduce watering and reduce indoor humidity.

Bacterial rot and bacterial burns

The main symptom of bacterial rot is watery spots on the leaves, which dry out over time, but remain on the geranium. If signs of the disease are detected, it is necessary:

• Cut off all affected parts;
• Stop any spraying;
• Feed the plant with a high potassium fertilizer;
• Treat with Oxyx.

Bacterial burns are leaf lesions caused by various microorganisms. First, dry spots appear on the leaves, which are subsequently deformed. Withering in this case is characteristic - the leaves droop, resembling an umbrella.

Geraniums suffering from fire blight are stunted but not killed because the root system remains healthy. Pelargonium becomes infected through dirty tools, water, substrate or insects. The disease cannot be cured - the only thing you can do is to root the shoots that the disease has not spread to. The rest is better to burn completely. Since the burn can quickly "eat" geraniums, you should not wait for the leaves to turn completely yellow, but cut the bush immediately.

verticillium wilt

This disease is the scourge of large-flowered pelargoniums, which suffer from it most often. The signs of the disease are quite characteristic: the leaves do not wither completely, but most often in halves and even sectors. Subsequently, the affected plates dry up and remain hanging on the bush without falling off. If you cut the stem, you can see the browned vessels, while the roots of the plant do not suffer.

Many flower growers advise completely destroying bushes that are sick with verticillium wilt, without even leaving a pot. Plants that were next to infected geraniums should be treated with Gamair and Alirin-B preparations.

However, if the geranium variety is dear to you, and you want to keep it, it is worth fighting for a cure. First you need to isolate the bush from other plants, then remove all parts affected by wilting, disinfecting the tool. It is recommended to adjust the watering so that the soil retains moderate moisture and does not dry out. For processing, the drug "Trichodermin" is used. If the bush cannot be cured, burn it.

leaf spot

Spotting appears as dark green spots of a round shape, which subsequently turn brown. Their edge is often darker than the middle, and slightly raised, and in the center one can distinguish an olive-brown coating of sporangia.

Large-flowered pelargoniums and zonal hybrids that are in the garden in rainy weather or in a greenhouse with high humidity are prone to spotting.

Treatment methods for spotting are as follows:

• Decreased air humidity;
• Removal of affected leaves;
• Reduce spraying bushes;
• Treatment with "Fitosporin", "Gamair", Bordeaux mixture.

Viral diseases of geraniums with a photo

Viral diseases cannot be confused with anything - they leave a characteristic mesh pattern on geranium leaves. Plants are attacked by viruses more often in the cold season due to a decrease in natural immunity.

Although viral diseases affect the growth of pelargonium, slowing it down, this does not affect the lifespan of the bushes. The virus cannot be treated, so the grower must make an appropriate decision - to completely destroy the bush, remove the leaves painted with the disease, or continue to grow the affected specimen. If you still decide to leave the bush, move it to another place to avoid contact with other plants, in particular, with pelargoniums. Using the same pruning tools is also not recommended, as the chance of infecting a healthy bush is very high. Remember: the virus is easily carried by insects!

Dropsy

Dropsy is a physiological disease caused by improper conditions of detention, in particular soil overflow, low temperatures and high humidity in the room.

Mostly ivy-leaved pelargoniums suffer from dropsy, on the back of the leaves of which edematous swollen areas appear. It is possible to prevent the further spread of the disease by adjusting agricultural technology and conditions of detention:

• Reduce watering and spraying;
• Provide the plant with good drainage;
• Ventilate the room regularly.

The most common pests with photos

Healthy pelargonium is not the most "delicious dish" for various kinds of pests, but the situation changes in the opposite direction when the bush's defenses weaken. Improper watering, heavy soil, putrefactive processes provoke attacks of insects that damage and “finish off” geraniums. However, you can fight them - special preparations and other methods of eliminating pests will come to the rescue.

• Mite. It settles on the underside of the leaf plate and slowly eats it, which manifests itself in the form of yellowish specks that develop into extensive discolored areas.

Fighting methods: with a mild degree of damage, the plant is treated with a soapy solution, with a strong spread of the tick, spraying with Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktellik or other acaricides is necessary.

• Thrips. This small insect causes deformation of young leaves and growth points. Cork-like growths appear on the underside of the leaf plates. Spots appear on the blooming flowers, and the edges of the petals become brown. In the center of the buds, near the stamens, thrips breeds.

Fighting methods: for complete destruction, repeated application of insecticides at intervals of 5 days is necessary. Use drugs "Confidor", "Aktellik", "Aktara", "Fitoverm" and their analogues.

• Aphid. It provokes yellowing and twisting of the leaves into a tube. The insect settles on a geranium bush in large colonies and eats young shoots, leaves and flowers. Easy to see with the naked eye.

Fighting methods: affected shoots and leaves must be cut and destroyed. If the aphid has not yet had time to multiply strongly, treatment with soapy water will help. In case of severe damage, the preparations Actellik, Antitlin, Fitoverm, Iskra, etc. are used.

• Whitefly. The insect affects mainly large-flowered hybrids and royal pelargoniums. On the lower surface of the leaves, white larvae and the most adult insects 2-3 mm in size can be seen. The pest feeds on geranium juices, eating its tender leaves. The corroded plates turn yellow, sticky discharges appear on them.

Fighting methods: To get rid of the whitefly, the geranium must be made poisonous to the insect. To do this, the soil in the pot is spilled with Aktara (for plants up to 40 cm, the dosage is 1 g per 10 liters of water). Spraying is also carried out with "Confidor" (you need to cover with a bag and leave overnight) or "Teppeki".

• Mealybug. The pest hides under lumps of a white sticky substance that looks like cotton wool. Since the worm quickly moves to other plants, the bush must be urgently isolated when the first signs of damage are detected.

Fighting methods: you can remove the pest manually with a damp cloth, and then rinse with a soap-alcohol solution (20 ml of alcohol, 20 g of laundry soap per 1 liter of water). In case of severe infection, the use of insecticidal preparations (Aktellik, Aktara, etc.) is recommended.

• Caterpillars. This pest causes significant leaf damage in the form of gnawed areas. Often you can see traces of their life.

Fighting methods: the caterpillar can be easily assembled by hand, every evening inspecting the bushes. The biological and chemical insecticides Bicol, Lepidocid, Arrivo, Tzipi, Zolon are also used.

So that geraniums do not suffer from diseases and pests, follow all the rules of care and cultivation, as well as carry out preventive treatments. Be sure to send new plants to quarantine, especially if they were bought in a flower shop, and not from a private collector.