Wheatgrass is a perennial herbaceous plant, which is known to many gardeners as the most malicious pest and weed, which is almost impossible to get rid of due to the fact that even a small fragment of the root left in the soil is capable of producing multiple shoots.

In fact, Wheatgrass is part of some lawn grass mixtures used to strengthen slopes and banks of water bodies, as well as to mark roadsides. Grass for the lawn from Wheatgrass is able to create a dense sod and prevent soil erosion.

In our assortment, wheatgrass is presented in the following lawn grass mixtures:

In addition, wheatgrass is a valuable fodder crop, and is also used in medicine.

The advantage of wheatgrass is that it can grow on any soil without requiring careful maintenance.

Wheatgrass: characteristics and features

Wheatgrass is a perennial lawn grass that belongs to the Grass family. The long and powerful rhizomes of Wheatgrass lie at a depth of up to 15 centimeters, and their length can reach several meters.

The long, flat leaves of Wheatgrass are bright green in color. In the middle of summer, during the flowering period, small flowers of a pale green color are formed.

Wheat grass is distributed throughout the world and is known for growing in any soil. This herbaceous plant loves sufficient moisture.

Wheatgrass as lawn grass

While some gardeners are looking for grass that destroys weeds, others have decided to introduce Wheatgrass into special lawn grass mixtures. And some have completely stopped fighting this type of weed, “taming” it and making it a ground cover lawn thanks to regular mowing with a hand mower.

Creating a lawn is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, especially if the terrain is complex. In landscaping slopes and banks of water bodies, lawn mixtures often come to the aid of gardeners, which include plants that are considered to be weeds, in particular, wheatgrass. The strong root system of this hardy groundcover helps to strengthen slopes. Often found wheatgrass in the composition of lawns and dividing strips.

The seeding rate for couch grass is 15 kilograms per hectare.

Lawn grass for any purpose with delivery in St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region

The composition and purpose, which you can buy in St. Petersburg through our online store, can be completely different. Our qualified specialists will tell you about the features of each lawn and its components, as well as recommend the most suitable grass mixture for your site.

We carry out fast delivery in St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. For many years we have been specializing in the sale of lawns, so we can confidently guarantee the high quality of the products we supply.

Many owners of garden plots located on the slopes complain that such features of the relief significantly limit the possibilities for design and selection of plants.

Nature is generous with plant material, and among its diversity it will not be difficult to choose an assortment suitable for strengthening the slope. The range of carpet plants is very, very extensive. Here it is only important to take into account all the nuances: what kind of slope is it - large or small, gentle or steep, its southern or northern side, sunny or shady, etc.

The best option to strengthen a slope with a slight slope is to sow it with lawn cereal grasses. Due to their branched root system, cereals will create a rather dense turf, which, in fact, is what is needed. Usually, various varieties of fescue (or festukas) are used to strengthen the slopes. In particular, meadow fescue and red fescue are excellent. However, it should be remembered that festuka prefers to grow in well-lit areas, so it is advisable to plant it on the sunny side of the slope.

Reliably strengthen the slope and white clover, which can be sown both in pure form, and in composition with cereal grass mixture. And it’s even more interesting to add wild flowers like cornflowers, buttercups, etc. to cereal grasses. In this case, you get an interesting imitation of a natural lawn.

For sowing slopes with lawn grasses, it is necessary to adhere to a special technology, because small seeds can easily be washed off the slope along with water. It is recommended to use a rake every 10 cm to make furrows in the soil with a depth of at least 2-3 cm. First, seeds are sown in these “pits”, and only then they begin to sow the spaces between the furrows, after which the soil is lightly tamped. Now they need to be watered, and this must be done, of course, very carefully. It is recommended to water in small portions, thin streams, slowly. The geogrid is also successfully used.

Ground covers are convenient in that they grow rapidly, covering considerable distances in a fairly short period of time. And it's not that hard to take care of them. Among the candidates to register on the slope can be called common ivy. Its advantages: it holds the soil well, tolerates well low temperatures, can grow in light or even full shade.

It can be recommended to plant a periwinkle on the slope - a perennial undersized creeping shrub. It also prevents soil from washing away on slopes. This plant differs in the relatively small size of both the aerial part and the root system. Periwinkle reproduces well by parts of rooted shoots and by the end of the second year of growth forms a dense, pretty carpet of stems and leaves. In addition, this living cover suppresses the growth of weeds.

Well holds the soil with its roots and large-flowered St. John's wort calyx. This plant is considered quite unpretentious and grows well in the sun and in the shade. It is advisable to cut the plants in early spring, leaving no more than 10 cm above ground level. If you follow this rule, the slope will look well-groomed and neat.

Decorate the slope and very popular in landscape design creeping tenacious, which feels comfortable in almost any conditions: in the sun and in the shade, on fertile and poor soil, on dry and moist soil, etc. The tenacious blooms in May - June with attractive small flowers.

Often, various stonecrops, or sedums, are planted on the slopes. Noteworthy is the false sedum, which grows under natural conditions in the Caucasus and the mountainous regions of Turkey. In July - August, red or pink flowers appear, collected in corymbose inflorescences.

Asks for a slope and loosestrife monetized, or meadow tea. Moreover, it is advised to use it to strengthen very steep slopes. This creeping plant develops equally well in the shade and in the sun. The exception is its yellow-leaved varieties (for example, "Aurea"), which, in low light, may lose their original color.

An interesting option for very steep slopes is the variegated tie, or poleaxe. This climbing plant of the legume family has a powerful root system, deepening 120 cm deep. In addition, in July, the elm also blooms beautifully with pink flowers. This plant loves the light, so it should be planted only on the sunny side of the slope. It is desirable to place the tie closely to each other. At the same time, the steeper the slope, the closer the landings should be. Since over time the tie grows up to 90 cm in height, it needs to be cut from time to time.

A dense bright green cover can also be obtained with the help of pachysandra, a semi-shrub with non-lignified shoots. The main advantage of all types of pachysandra is not in the flowers, which are too small and sometimes simply invisible to the eye, but in the foliage itself. Plantings of pachysandra do not change the fresh color of greenery almost all year round.

The sun is also suitable for strengthening the slopes (a creeping semi-shrub blooming with yellow flowers similar to small suns), creeping gypsophila (characterized by small bluish foliage and numerous white-pink flowers that bloom in mid-summer), wonderful mountaineer (distinguished by pink inflorescences in the form of ears ), yaskolka and many others.

If we are talking about landscaping large slopes, it is just right to remember the larger representatives of the flora, that is, shrubs and trees. They can be planted both in groups and singly. Continuous shrub plantings in gardens should preferably be avoided. It would be much more expedient to combine the planting of shrubs with ground covers.

Common barberry and, above all, its red-leaved garden forms, as well as Thunberg's barberry

Juniper Cossack

golden cypress

mountain pine

spruce varieties

All kinds of cotoneasters

Various types and forms of spirea

Japonica

Brooms (in particular Broom "Golden Rain")

Sumac virginiana, or vinegar tree

forsythia

Creeping wild roses and climbing roses("Excelsa" with red flowers and "Dorothy Perkins" with pink flowers)

Deutsia ("Lemoine")

tree peony

Chubushnik

Fieldfare

Dwarf cherry, felted cherry can also be used

Sea ​​buckthorn

The grass mixtures sold by us are subjected to laboratory examination, which checks compliance with the requirements of state regulations. Only with positive test results at each stage, we put the seeds up for sale. Lawn seeds always correspond to the declared agro-characteristics.

Delivery of low-quality goods is absolutely excluded. This is confirmed by our regular customers. All seeds of lawn grasses pass careful selection and scrupulous quality control. At the same time, even the slightest probability of acquiring low-quality seeds by you is completely excluded.

Be sure that appearance lawn will bring aesthetic pleasure to you and your loved ones. High-quality live velvet greenery is a lot of positive and we know it very well!

If you don't know which lawn seeds are best for your needs

Managers of the CMP company will always tell you which grass mixture is better to purchase to create various kinds lawns. We will also provide any assistance in choosing seeds for your future lawn. We will tell you how to properly care for a fresh planting of a lawn grass mixture, we will recommend the best complex of fertilizers.

Eco-friendly homestead: Couch grass is a pioneer plant. It quickly occupies the territory where the land used to be intensively cultivated, fertilized with mineral and even organic fertilizers, and also constantly plowed, cultivated or dug up. Usually wheatgrass grows in one place up to 7 years, and then gradually gives way to other plants.

Creeping wheatgrass is a pioneer plant. It quickly occupies the territory where the land used to be intensively cultivated, fertilized with mineral and even organic fertilizers, and also constantly plowed, cultivated or dug up.

Usually wheatgrass grows in one place up to 7 years, and then gradually gives way to other plants. But still, we will not wait 7 years, but we will start getting rid of it this spring (you can also do it in summer or autumn, if you read the article in summer or autumn).

Some use chemical herbicides, referring to the fact that "They are allowed to be used." But not always what is allowed is useful. Remember that they will not bring anything good. By the way, weeds very quickly get used to herbicides and then they need to be poured more and more. Surely, your health and your children and grandchildren are more important to you than the enrichment of corporations, both chemical and pharmaceutical.

By the way, remember that wheatgrass is not only an obnoxious weed, but also a useful plant.

If wheatgrass only grows in some places, then you can dig it up and try to select all the roots, but this article is more about how to get rid of wheatgrass if it has flooded a huge area.

How to deal with couch grass creeping on the lawn

The easiest way to fight is used where you want to make a natural lawn. In this case, you will need a tool or equipment for mowing grass (scythe, trimmer, lawn mower). By the way, a trimmer or lawn mower is even more convenient. It is necessary to constantly mow the wheatgrass, he will get tired of it very quickly and he will pass the baton to other plants.

Good lawn white clover, since it is quite soft when it grows back and it is pleasant to walk on it barefoot. And walking barefoot in the morning dew is doubly pleasant, plus even more beneficial.

Knotweed (highlander bird) is also good. It is soft, pleasant to walk on, it does not need to be mowed, as it grows close to the ground. He also loves to be walked on - he breeds like that. And vice versa, where knotweed is not walked on, it grows reluctantly, or even disappears altogether.

If ordinary meadow grasses grow, it’s also good. The main thing is that it will not be wheatgrass. Meadow grasses are very good between beds. They can be periodically mowed and used as mulch for beds. By the way, between the beds of wheatgrass at first, it also does not interfere much. To prevent its rhizomes from climbing onto the beds, you can use a curb tape. First, you will mow down the wheatgrass, walk on it, and soon it will leave.

Also, for a wild lawn, you can use bluegrass shoots and bent grass shoots. These plants grow quickly and produce a nice soft carpet. The only thing is that in extreme heat they can turn yellow, but after rain they begin to turn green again. Their rhizome is not the same as that of wheatgrass, but still they can easily climb into the garden. Therefore, it is desirable to fence off the beds from them with a curb tape.

There is also an opinion that this weed does not like neighborhood with dahlias.

How to deal with wheatgrass in the garden

The fight against wheatgrass in the garden is not so easy, but feasible. Described below different ways struggle with wheatgrass, and you choose those that are more suitable.

1 way. Destruction of wheatgrass by picking out roots

Picking out the roots of wheatgrass from the ground is a well-known method. The main thing here is to carefully choose the roots, while it is advisable to use not a shovel, but a pitchfork. This is due to the fact that even a piece of wheatgrass rhizome allows it to grow quickly, and thanks to a shovel, the roots are more crushed. In addition, digging the earth overgrown with wheatgrass with a shovel is practically hard labor. In this case, you will have to spend much more effort than digging with a pitchfork.

Minus: this method requires a lot of effort and time. Almost every lump of earth will have to be sorted out.

2 way

This method is the opposite of the first. Here it is recommended to grind the rhizome into small segments (with a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator, shallow plowing - no deeper than 20 cm). At the same time, the germination of buds that "slept" is stimulated.

What is so good about it? Sprouted buds are more weakened than adult couch grass - after all, they take strength for growth from a small root. It is easier to choose such plants from the ground, because they do not yet have such a branched root system as the "parent".

But it will be necessary to quickly work with them so that they do not have time to build up a branched root system. As soon as green sprouts appear, they need to be pulled out of the ground. Farmers of traditional agriculture use repeated cultivation and pruning, and also “comb out” the rhizomes from the plot using special equipment.

minus the same A: It takes a lot of effort and time. In addition to wheatgrass, other weeds can germinate from seeds. In addition, crushing the roots through plowing leads to the destruction of the capillary structure of the soil and the death of microorganisms that make the soil fertile. This is especially true with repeated cultivation and plowing.

Summary: in its pure form, this method is highly undesirable in natural agriculture.

3 way. How to remove wheatgrass from the garden and harm the earth less

Similar to the second method, but with refinement. In practice, he answers the questions of how to get rid of wheatgrass with improved soil fertility.

After crushing the roots (with a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator, shallow plowing - no deeper than 20 cm), the plot or individual beds are sown with green manure, which wheatgrass does not like. Remember that he does not like buckwheat, cruciferous plants and legume mixtures. In fact, you can use the same green manure as for getting rid of the wireworm - you get a double benefit.

In addition, couch grass does not like shading, and fast-growing green manure will provide this shade. He does not like rye either, but wireworms love it, so it is not advisable to use it. In addition, rye also greatly dries out the soil.

Advantage over method 2:

Although the roots are crushed, the capillary structure of the soil is destroyed and the microorganisms that make the soil fertile die, there is a positive side. Crushed wheatgrass roots are weaker at the beginning of growth than mature plant. Plus, green manure, with rapid growth, obscures wheatgrass and even depresses it by releasing substances that it does not like.

Green manures will help to quickly improve and structure the soil, nourish it with the missing substances, and also expel wireworms. Good double crops of vetch-oat or pea-oat mixture, as well as sowing of oil-bearing radish.

This method can be used to quickly improve a large area. If you want to grow some vegetables in the same year, it will be difficult, although if you plant seedlings, you can get a crop this year.

Alternatively, it is possible to clean only part of the area in this way, and use a different method on the other part.

4 way

The next option is spring pruning of young wheatgrass plants. It doesn't need to go deep. Cut with a Fokin flat cutter, Swift or another tool familiar to you to a depth of 5-7 cm. In this way, remove the grass, its growth point and part of the rhizomes. What you cut off - select from the garden - it's easier than choosing all the roots from a depth of 20 cm (when compared with the 1st method).

The rhizomes of the wheatgrass will receive the signal to grow new grass and wake up dormant buds. The grass will grow, and you will cut it again by the same 5-7 cm. The next germination of couch grass from the 2nd generation of dormant buds is not excluded. BUT for each germination, he will have less and less strength. In practice, in this way, you will exhaust the couch grass and there will be nothing left for him but to die or “crawl away” to those places where he is not disturbed.

The advantage of this method- the structure of the soil is almost not destroyed.

Minus: it is unlikely that you will have time to sow or plant something in the spring cultivated plants. Although, after trimming green manure, you can try to plant some seedlings, taking into account crop rotation. Also, instead of green manure, you can immediately sow or plant cultivated plants, but which expel wheatgrass. Read about these in 5 ways.

5 way

This method is also based on two weaknesses of wheatgrass at once - intolerance to strong shading and dislike for legumes and cruciferous crops. In some ways, it is similar to the 3rd method.

First, we plow the area, but no deeper than 20 cm. If the area is small, then you can get by with a hoe or flat cutter (for example, in a garden). Then we plant Jerusalem artichoke and sow a mixture of seeds: lettuce, radish, radish, peas, beans, corn, sunflower. Sow not very thick, but scattered. Such a mixture is good because it does not give wheatgrass a chance to survive. The fact is that these cultures are of different heights and form a dense “carpet”. Plus, they release substances that our favorite weed doesn't like.

We also get the following benefits:

taller plants cover moisture-loving and cool-loving neighbors from the sun (this is true in hot regions);

step landing allows you to protect yourself from the effects of hail. Those plants that are taller, of course, will suffer, but at the same time they will protect lower crops. Accordingly, you will get at least some kind of harvest, something will survive.

This method was spied on by Sepp Holzer. True, there is doubt about planting Jerusalem artichoke, sowing corn and sunflower. Traditional agronomists say that these crops should not be planted in an area inhabited by wireworms.

In monoculture, all these 3 plants suffer from wireworm, and in addition from the larvae of the cockchafer. But this is in traditional farming when growing a monoculture. It is likely that when growing a mixture of plants, the appetite of pests will disappear. I think we need to experiment. It is possible to plant Jerusalem artichoke in one area (bed) and sow a mixture of seeds of the above crops, and in another garden to refuse Jerusalem artichoke and, possibly, corn and sunflower. This way you can determine what works best.

6 way

This method is also recommended by Sepp Holzer. It uses the weakness of wheatgrass to germinate from the depths. What to do? It is necessary to remove a 20-centimeter layer of earth along with the rhizomes of wheatgrass and other weeds and lay these pieces of earth with a green mass down. On top, you can lay another layer with wheatgrass. Then the earth is taken, poured over the boulders.

The total height of the ridge, together with the lower layers with weeds, is up to 1.5 meters. The slope of the hilly bed is about 60 degrees. If we take into account that the top and along the edges of the wheatgrass will be covered with earth, then it will no longer germinate, but will begin to rot. Perhaps somewhere it will sprout, but if the ridge is densely occupied with vegetation, then there will no longer be room for wheatgrass. You can get rid of everything in one go. On such a hilly ridge, you need to plant a variety of plants, including those that wheatgrass does not like (for example, a group of plants from the 5th method)

This method can be applied with a double benefit:

1. get rid of wheatgrass;

2. the place where the land is selected can be used to organize a warm bed.

7 way

This method is also from the great Austrian agrarian, but it is clearly not suitable for everyone. The fact is that here it is supposed to use pigs as "destroyers" of wheatgrass roots, as well as various pests (wireworms, May beetle larvae). After the pigs have cultivated the soil, it is planned to sow a mixture of various crops: cereals, lettuce, cabbage, root crops and other vegetables.

Yes, this method is as environmentally friendly as possible, but it definitely cannot be applied in small areas (at least due to the lack of specially trained pigs).

8 way. How to destroy wheatgrass in the garden with mulch

After marking the beds, lay a 25-35 cm layer of mulch - hay, grass, any weeds (preferably without seeds, but if they are, it's okay. Birds can handle weed seeds). It is best to lay such a mulch for a year. This will achieve the following results:

1. moisture is formed under the mulch, various earthly inhabitants, including earthworms, are activated and multiply perfectly, and thus a fruitful earth is formed;

2. wheatgrass can pass this layer, but since its roots are located at a depth of up to 15 cm, it will try to get out of the dungeon. Let its roots come out of the ground and it will sprout, but then the rhizomes fall into the mulch layer. Then you just have to grab the wheatgrass grass and pull it up - the roots are no longer in the soil and are easily pulled out. You can listen to this interesting method in the video:

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The structured processed land is already ready for sowing and planting of cultivated plants in the next season. Such land does not need to be dug, but it is enough just to process it with a flat cutter (Fokina, swift or others) or a chopper.

Then you can either sow a mixture of plants from the 5th method or others similar plants. You can plant different crops. BUT remember the wireworm. If he is on the site, then you need to get rid of him, so at first it is better to plant those plants that he does not like, and also sow green manure. Very good buckwheat and cruciferous plants. They are detrimental to wheatgrass and expel wireworms.

9 way. Beds and flower beds of quick production

The attractiveness of this method is in the minimum expenditure of time and effort. This method should not allow wheatgrass to break through to the surface. You will need cardboard, mulch, various garden debris, earth, compost, you can also add a little ash. The principle of operation is shown in this picture:

1. we prepare the site - if a flower bed is supposed to be framed with stones, then along its perimeter you need to dig a ditch to install the stones. If it is a garden bed, then either use a curb tape or boards.

2. First we lay cardboard, paper, old newspapers and pour water over them. It is even better to pour water with the addition of effective microorganisms. Stones or something heavy are only needed so that the wind does not blow away this structure. If there is no wind, then you can do without stones.

3. On top of this layer we lay garden debris, weeds, earth mixed with compost, ash. We frame everything with a curb of stones. Tip: it is better to immediately install a border or frame and then fill the ground. This is especially true for the beds.

By the way, if you choose between newspapers and cardboard, it is better to stop at cardboard or, in extreme cases, black and white newspapers.

This will be of interest to you:

Then you need to cover the ridge with mulch (you can use black agrofibre) and leave for 1-2 weeks. Or, if there is time before the main planting, sow green manure. After that, you can start sowing seeds or planting seedlings. It is important that if the bed is not high, then in the first year you can plant pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons (if the region is hot). But with carrots, you need to wait until next year, otherwise it will be all twisted and you simply don’t want to peel it. published