Metal detectors or metal detectors are a diverse family of measuring instruments, the operation of which is based on differences in the electromagnetic radiation of objects.

Using a metal detector

Professional highly sensitive metal detectors are used in the daily work of various inspection points; they are used to conduct search and investigative activities of police and rescue services.

A huge army of amateur treasure hunters around the world practice long and leisurely hikes with metal detectors. Sometimes such entertainment brings income and even fame.

Nowadays, an industry of detector (recognition) devices has already been established for all occasions, differing not only in operating principles, but also in a wide range of prices and technical characteristics.

Simple magnetic detectors

The operating principle of the simplest metal detector is based on electromagnetic induction - the device contains an electromagnetic coil, which, due to oscillations and distortions of its field, detects nearby electrically conductive and ferrous-magnetic materials, creating an audio or visual signal.

The first experience of assembling a metal detector at home can be the beginning of a serious hobby: new design solutions and even inventions in this field of applied radio electronics are not excluded even at the amateur level.

The diagram shows the structure of a simple low-frequency magnetic detector.

Hundreds of different designs are used in the production of metal detectors. In order to implement one of them yourself, you will need to make a printed circuit board with your own hands, purchase the necessary coils, transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc., and assemble the device.

Metal detector made from improvised means

Another option is to assemble a metal detector from available materials; it is more suitable for humanists and novice technicians with a passion for finding treasures and lost artifacts.

During operation of such a homemade device, electromagnetic waves emitted by the calculator are caught on the AM band of the receiver.

An indicator of the location of an object in this device is the rotation of the electromagnetic field during re-emission, which changes the parameters of the sound signal. A photo of such a do-it-yourself metal detector can be found on the Internet and at the end of our material.

To use such a prefabricated version, you do not need a detailed diagram or assembly instructions, but compliance with certain requirements for the two main components of a homemade detector, namely a properly working calculator and a radio receiver.

Both devices must be from the cheapest category, the receiver must have an AM band and a magnetic antenna, and the calculator must emit pulsed radio interference during operation.

To work on the model, you will also need a suitable sized plastic box with an opening lid, like a book, which will become the body of the finder.

An old CD box is ideal for these purposes. To attach the parts you will need double-sided tape.

Metal detector assembly

• Securing the instruments inside the case: a strip of tape is attached to the back of the instruments, then the calculator is placed at the base of the box, the receiver is on the inside of the lid.
• Setting up the receiver: you need to turn on the receiver at maximum volume and select the upper position of the AM range, free from radio broadcasts and interference.
• Adjusting the calculator: when the calculator is turned on, the receiver should respond with a sharp noise, hum or wheezing; if this does not happen, you need to adjust the range.
• Fixing the position: we begin to smoothly close the box until the sound disappears or becomes more uniform and fix the box doors in this position, using a cube of foam plastic, rubber bands, etc.
• The metal detector is ready. If there is a product with electromagnetic radiation nearby, the receiver will sound an alarm.

By combining elements of other radio devices in a simple detector, you can observe the operating principle of metal detectors in action and enjoy your first search expedition.

Note!

Such a detector, assembled at home, can be tested to search for coins or metal construction debris lying in the surface layer of the earth in almost any area, on any open ground.

Photos of do-it-yourself metal detectors

Note!

Note!

Not so often, but losses still happen in our lives. For example, we went into the forest to pick mushrooms and berries and dropped the keys. It will not be so easy to find them in the grass under the leaves. Don’t despair: a homemade metal detector, which we will make with our own hands, will help us. So I decided to collect my first metal detector. Nowadays, few people decide to make a metal detector. Homemade devices were popular twenty to twenty-five years ago, when there was simply nowhere to buy them.
Modern metal detectors from manufacturers such as Garrett, Fisher and many others have high sensitivity, metal discrimination, and some even have a hodograph. They are able to adjust the ground balance and tune out electrical interference. Thanks to this, the detection depth of a modern coin metal detector reaches 40 cm.

I chose a scheme that was not very complicated, so that it could be repeated at home. The principle of operation is based on the difference in the beat of two frequencies that we will pick up by ear. The device is assembled on two microcircuits, contains a minimum of parts, and at the same time has quartz frequency stabilization, thanks to which the device operates stably.

Metal detector circuit on microcircuits

The scheme is very simple. It can easily be repeated at home. It is built on two 176 series microcircuits. The reference oscillator is made on La9 and stabilized by quartz at 1 MHz. Unfortunately, I didn’t have this, I had to set it to 1.6 MHz.

The tunable generator is assembled on the K176la7 microcircuit. To achieve zero beats, varicap D1 will help, the capacity of which varies depending on the position of the variable resistor R2 slider. The basis of the oscillatory circuit is the search coil L1, when it approaches a metal object, the inductance changes, as a result of which the frequency of the tunable generator changes, which is what we hear in headphones.

I use regular headphones from a player, the emitters of which are connected in series in order to put less load on the output stage of the microcircuit:

If the volume turns out to be too much, you can introduce a volume regulator into the circuit:

Details of a homemade metal detector:

• Microcircuits; K176LA7, K176LA9
• Quartz resonator; 1 MHz
• Varicap; D901E
• Resistors; 150k-3pcs., 30k-1pc.
• Variable resistance resistor; 10k-1pcs.
• Electrolytic capacitor; 50 microfarads/15 volts
• Capacitors; 0.047-2pcs., 100-4pcs., 0.022, 4700, 390

Most of the parts are located on the printed circuit board:

I placed the entire device in an ordinary soap dish, shielding it from interference with aluminum foil, which I connected to a common wire:

Since there is no place on the printed circuit board for quartz, it is located separately. For convenience, I removed the headphone jack and frequency control from the end of the soap dish:

The entire metal detector unit was placed on a piece of ski pole using two clamps:

The most important part remains: making the search coil.

Metal detector coil

The sensitivity of the device and resistance to false alarms, the so-called fontons, will depend on the quality of the coil’s manufacturing. I would like to immediately note that the depth of detection of an object directly depends on the size of the coil. So, the larger the diameter, the deeper the device will be able to detect the target, but the size of this target should also be larger, for example, a sewer manhole (the metal detector simply will not see a small object with a large coil). Conversely, a small-diameter coil can detect a small object, but not very deep (for example, a small coin or ring).

Therefore, I first wound a medium-sized reel, so to speak, a universal one. Looking ahead, I want to say that the metal detector was designed for all occasions, that is, the coils should be of different diameters and they can be changed. To quickly change the coil, I installed a connector on the rod that I pulled out of an old tube TV:

I attached the mating part of the connector to the coil:

As a frame for the future reel, I used a plastic bucket that I bought at a hardware store. The diameter of the bucket should be approximately 200 mm. Part of the handle and bottom should be cut off from the bucket so that a plastic rim remains, onto which 50 turns of PELSHO wire with a diameter of 0.27 millimeters should be wound. The connector should be attached to the part of the remaining handle. We insulate the resulting coil using electrical tape in one layer. Then we need to shield this coil from interference. To do this, we need aluminum foil in the form of a strip, which we will wrap on top so that the ends of the resulting screen do not close and the distance between them is approximately 20 millimeters. The resulting screen should be connected to a common wire. I also wrapped it with electrical tape on top. Of course, you can soak it all with epoxy glue, but I left it that way.

After testing a large coil, I realized that I needed to make a small one, the so-called sniper, to make it easier to detect small objects.

The finished coils look like this:

Setting up a finished metal detector

Before you start setting up your metal detector, you need to make sure that there are no metal objects near the search coil. The setup consists of selecting the capacitance of capacitor C2 in order to obtain the maximum level of beats that we hear in headphones, since there are many harmonics in the signal (we need to highlight the strongest one). In this case, the slider of the variable resistor R2 should be as close to the middle as possible:

I made the rod from two parts, the tubes were selected in such a way that they fit into each other very tightly, so I didn’t have to come up with a special fastening for these tubes. An armrest and handle were also made to make it easier to wire above the ground. As practice has shown, this is very convenient: the hand does not get tired at all. When disassembled, the metal detector turned out to be very compact and literally fits into a bag:

The appearance of the finished device looks like this:

In conclusion, I would like to say that this metal detector is not suitable for people who are going to work in the old-fashioned way. Since it doesn't discriminate against metals, you'll have to dig for everything. You will most likely be very disappointed. But for those who like to collect scrap metal, this device will be of help. And just as entertainment for children.

Metal detector circuit

Today I would like to present to your attention a diagram of a metal detector, and everything related to it, what you see in the photograph. After all, it is sometimes so difficult to find the answer to a question in a search engine - Diagram of a good metal detector

In other words, the metal detector has a name Tesoro Eldorado

The metal detector can operate in both the search mode for all metals and background discrimination.

Technical characteristics of the metal detector.

Operating principle: induction balanced
-Operating frequency, kHz 8-10kHz
-Dynamic operating mode
-Precise detection mode (Pin-Point) is available in static mode
-Power supply, V 12
-There is a sensitivity level regulator
-There is a threshold tone control
-Ground adjustment is available (manual)

Detection depth in the air with a DD-250mm sensor In the ground, the device sees targets almost the same as in the air.
-coins 25mm - about 30cm
-gold ring - 25cm
-helmet 100-120cm
-maximum depth 150cm
-Consumption current:
-No sound approximately 30 mA

And the most important and intriguing thing is the diagram of the device itself

The picture is easily enlarged when you click on it

To assemble the metal detector you need the following parts:

So that you don’t have to spend a long time setting up the device, do the assembly and soldering carefully; the board should not contain any clamps.

For tinning boards, it is best to use rosin in alcohol; after tinning the tracks, do not forget to wipe the tracks with alcohol

Parts side board

We begin assembly soldering jumpers, then resistors, further sockets for microcircuits And all the rest. One more small recommendation, now regarding the manufacture of the device board. It is very desirable to have a tester that can measure the capacitance of capacitors. The fact is that the device These are two identical amplification channels, therefore the amplification through them should be as identical as possible, and for this it is advisable to select those parts that are repeated on each amplification stage so that they have the most identical parameters as measured by the tester (that is, what are the readings in a particular stage on one channel - the same readings on the same stage and in another channel)

Making a coil for a metal detector

Today I would like to talk about the manufacture of a sensor in a finished housing, so the photo is more than words.
We take the housing, attach the sealed wire in the right place and install the cable, ring the cable and mark the ends.
Next we wind the coils. The DD sensor is manufactured according to the same principle as for all balancers, so I will focus only on the required parameters.
TX – transmitting coil 100 turns 0.27 RX – receiving coil 106 turns 0.27 enameled winding wire.

After winding, the coils are tightly wrapped with thread and impregnated with varnish.

After drying, wrap tightly with electrical tape around the entire circumference. The top is shielded with foil; between the end and the beginning of the foil there should be a gap of 1 cm not covered by it, in order to avoid a short-circuited turn.

It is possible to shield the coil with graphite; to do this, mix graphite with nitro varnish 1:1 and cover the top with a uniform layer of tinned copper 0.4 wire wound on the coil (without gaps), connect the wire to the cable shield.

We put it into the case, connect it and roughly bring the coils into balance, there should be a double beep for the ferrite, a single beep for the coin, if it’s the other way around, then we swap the terminals of the receiving winding. Each of the coils is adjusted in frequency separately; there should be no metal objects nearby!!! The coils are tuned with an attachment for measuring resonance. We connect the attachment to the Eldorado board in parallel with the transmitting coil and measure the frequency, then with the RX coil and a selected capacitor we achieve a frequency 600 Hz higher than that obtained in TX.

After selecting the resonance, we assemble the coil together and check whether the device sees the entire VDI scale from aluminum foil to copper; if the device does not see the entire scale, then we select the capacitance of the resonant capacitor in the RX circuit in steps of 0.5-1 nf in one direction or another, and in addition the moment when the device will see foil and copper at a minimum of discrimination, and when the discrimination is turned up, the entire scale will be cut out in turn.

We finally reduce the coils to zero, fixing everything with hot glue. Next, to lighten the coil, we glue the voids with pieces of polystyrene foam, the foam sits on the hot glue, otherwise it will float up after filling the coil.

Pour the first layer of epoxy, without adding to the top 2-3mm

Fill in the second layer of resin with color. An aniline dye is a good choice for dyeing fabric; the powder comes in different colors and costs a penny. The dye must first be mixed with the hardener, then the hardener must be added to the resin; the dye will not dissolve in the resin immediately.

To assemble the board correctly, start by checking the correct power supply to all components.

Take the circuit and the tester, turn on the power on the board, and, checking the circuit, go through the tester at all points on the nodes where power should be supplied.
When the discrimination knob is set to minimum, the device should see all non-ferrous metals

, when screwing the discrim, they should be cut out

all metals in order up to copper should not be cut out if the deviceit works this way, which means it is configured correctly. The discrimination scale needs to be selected so that it fits completely into a full turn of the discrimination knob, this is done by selecting c10. When the capacity decreases, the scale stretches and vice versa.

You can buy it for about 100-300 dollars. The price of metal detectors is strongly related to their detection depth; not every metal detector can “see” coins at a depth of 15 cm. In addition, the cost of a metal detector is also greatly affected by the presence of a metal type recognizer and the type of interface; fashionable metal detectors are sometimes equipped with a display for convenient operation .

This article will look at an example of assembling a powerful metal detector called Pirat with your own hands. The device is capable of catching coins underground at a depth of 20 cm. As for large objects, it is quite possible to work at a depth of 150 cm.

Video of working with a metal detector:

This metal detector received this name due to the fact that it is pulsed, this is the designation of its first two letters (PI-pulse). Well, RA-T is consonant with the word radioskot - this is the name of the developers’ site, where the homemade product was posted. According to the author, the Pirate is assembled very simply and quickly; even basic skills in working with electronics are enough for this.

The disadvantage of such a device is that it does not have a discriminator, that is, it cannot recognize non-ferrous metals. So it will not be possible to work with it in areas contaminated with various types of metals.

Materials and tools for assembly:
- microcircuit KR1006VI1 (or its foreign analogue NE555) - the transmitting node is built on it;
- transistor IRF740;
- K157UD2 microcircuit and BC547 transistor (the receiving unit is assembled on them);
- wire PEV 0.5 (for winding the coil);
- NPN type transistors;
- materials for creating the body and so on;
- electrical tape;
- soldering iron, wires, other tools.

The remaining radio components can be seen in the diagram.

You also need to find a suitable plastic box for mounting the electronic circuit. You will also need a plastic pipe to create a rod on which the coil is attached.

Metal detector assembly process:

Step one. Creating a printed circuit board
The most complex part of the device is, of course, the electronics, so it makes sense to start there. First of all, you need to make a printed circuit board. There are several board options, depending on the radio elements used. There is a board for NE555, and there is a board with transistors. All the necessary files to create the board are included in the article. You can also find other board options on the Internet.

Step two. Installing electronic elements on the board
Now the board needs to be soldered, all electronic elements are installed exactly as in the diagram. In the picture on the left you can see the capacitors. These capacitors are film capacitors and have high thermal stability. Thanks to this, the metal detector will work more stably. This is especially true if you use a metal detector in the fall, when it is sometimes quite cold outside.

Step three. Power supply for metal detector
To power the device, you need a source from 9 to 12 V. It is important to note that the device is quite voracious in terms of energy consumption, and this is logical, because it is also powerful. One Krona battery will not last long here; it is recommended to use 2-3 batteries at once, which are connected in parallel. You can also use one powerful battery (best rechargeable).

Step four. Assembling a coil for a metal detector
Due to the fact that this is a pulse metal detector, the accuracy of the coil assembly is not so important here. The optimal diameter of the mandrel is 1900-200 mm; a total of 25 turns need to be wound. After the coil is wound, it needs to be thoroughly wrapped on top with electrical tape for insulation. To increase the detection depth of the coil, you need to wind it on a mandrel with a diameter of about 260-270 mm, and reduce the number of turns to 21-22. In this case, a wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm is used.

After the coil is wound, it must be installed on a rigid body; there should be no metal on it. Here you need to think a little and look for any suitable housing. It is needed to protect the coil from shock while working with the device.

The leads from the coil are soldered to a stranded wire with a diameter of about 0.5-0.75 mm. It is best if there are two wires twisted together.

Step five. Setting up a metal detector
When assembling exactly according to the diagram, you do not need to adjust the metal detector; it already has maximum sensitivity. To fine-tune the metal detector, you need to twist the variable resistor R13, you need to achieve rare clicks in the speaker. If this can only be achieved in the extreme positions of the resistor, then it is necessary to change the value of resistor R12. The variable resistor should set the device to normal operation in the middle positions.

Finding artifacts underground is a fairly popular activity. For some, this is a profession, others are simply interested in archaeology. There are numerous groups of treasure hunters: both romantics and pragmatic treasure hunters. All these people are united by one passion: searching for metal objects hidden at various depths.

Just because you have an accurate map showing where the treasure is buried, or plans for fighting during the war, this does not guarantee success. You can shovel tons of soil, and the desired item will calmly lie a couple of meters from the active search site.

To search for gold and less valuable metals, you will need a metal detector that you can make yourself.

Important information: The use of such devices is not prohibited by law. However, there are penalties for the consequences of such a search regarding excavations, as well as the recovery of discovered objects.

We won’t go into details; that’s the topic of another article. Simply put: if you find a gold ring on the beach, or a handful of Soviet coins in the forest, there will be no problems associated with the use of electronic search tools.

But for recovered bronze spoons that are 100 years old or older, you can get a real sentence or a large fine.

Nevertheless, devices for searching for metal objects in the depths of the earth are freely sold, and those who want to save money can make a metal detector with their own hands at home.

Operating principle of the device

Unlike ground detectors, which work using waves of different frequencies or ultrasound, a metal detector (either factory-made or home-made) works with inductance.

The coil emits an electromagnetic field, which is then analyzed by the receiver. If any object that conducts electric current or has ferromagnetic properties is in the coverage area, the field format is distorted. More precisely, under the influence of the active field of the coil, the object forms its own. This event is recorded by the receiver, and an alert is generated: the instrument needle moves, a tone sounds, and indicator lights light up.

Knowing the operating method, you can calculate the electrical circuit and create a powerful metal detector with your own hands. The complexity of the design depends only on the availability of the element base and your desire. Let's look at several popular options for assembling a homemade metal detector:

The so-called "butterfly"

This nickname was received due to the characteristic shape of the platform on which the inductors are located.

The arrangement of the elements is related to the operating principle. The circuit is made in the form of two generators operating at the same frequency. When identical coils are connected to them, an induction balance is created. As soon as a foreign object with electrical conductivity gets into the electromagnetic field, the balance of the field is destroyed.

Generators are implemented on NE555 chips. The illustration shows a typical diagram of such a device.

The coil for the metal detector (there are two of them, in the diagram: L1 and L2) is made by hand from wire with a cross section of 0.5–0.7 mm². The ideal option is a transformer winding copper core in varnish insulation (removed from any unnecessary transformer). The characteristics do not have to be maintained with pinpoint precision, under one condition: the coils must be identical.

Approximate parameters: diameter 190 mm, each coil has exactly 30 turns. The assembled product must be monolithic. To do this, the turns are grabbed with a mounting thread and filled with transformer varnish. If this is not done, vibration of the turns will throw the circuit off balance.

Electrical diagram

There are two manufacturing options:

• given the small number of elements, you can assemble it on a breadboard by connecting the legs of the parts using conductors;
• For accuracy and reliability, it is better to etch the board according to the proposed drawing.

Any “snot-based” soldering can fail in the field, and you will be offended for wasting your time.

Just like a transistor metal detector, the NE555 device needs fine tuning before use. The diagram shows three variable resistors:

• R1 is designed to adjust the frequency of the generator and achieve that same balance;
• R2 coarsely adjusts sensitivity;
• Using resistor R3, you can set the sensitivity with an accuracy of 1 cm.

Information: This scheme cannot discriminate against metals. The seeker only makes it clear that the object exists. And by the tone of the signal (based on your experience) you can determine the approximate volume and depth of the deposit.

The power supply is quite universal: 9–12 volts. You can select a battery from an uninterruptible power supply, or assemble a power supply from AAA batteries. A good option is 18650 batteries (they are also used for vaping).

Butterfly setting

The principle of operation is described above, so let’s just look at the technology. We set all resistors to the middle position, and ensure that the synchronization of the generators is disrupted. To do this, we fold the coils in a figure eight and move them relative to each other until the squeaking turns into crackling. This is a synchronization failure.

We fix the rings and rotate the resistor R1 until a steady crackling sound appears at even intervals.

By bringing metal objects to the place where the coils overlap (this is the search point), achieve a steady squeak. The sensitivity is adjusted by resistor R2.

All that remains is adjustment with resistor R3, which is used rather to correct the voltage drop in the power source.

Mechanical part

A do-it-yourself metal detector rod is made from a lightweight plastic pipe or wood. The use of aluminum is undesirable as it will interfere with operation. The circuit and controls can be hidden in a sealed housing (for example, a junction box for wiring).

The butterfly finder is ready to go.

Pirate

Another popular pulse model for beginner treasure hunters is the “Pirate” metal detector. It is also easy to make with your own hands, detailed instructions in two versions:

It is advisable to bring the power supply closer to 12 volts, since the quality of operation depends on the voltage. Printed circuit boards have already been tested, both options are shown in the illustration.

The coil (in this case one) is made from the same 0.5 mm transformer wire. The optimal diameter is 20 mm, the number of turns is 25. Since we are making the “Pirate” metal detector with our own hands, the external design fades into the background. Any materials that you were ready to throw away will do.

It is better to make the handle detachable for ease of transportation. We remember that the use of metals is unacceptable.

Sensitivity is adjusted by two variable resistors in real time while searching. No fine tuning of the generator is required.

And if you manage to properly seal the case, you can start searching for “treasures” in the beach surf, and even at the bottom of the reservoir.

It is more difficult to make an underwater metal detector with your own hands, but it will give you an undeniable advantage over your competitors.

Improved performance

You can make a deep metal detector with your own hands from a ready-made “Pirate” without additional costs. There are two ways to do this:

1. Increasing the diameter of the inductor. At the same time, downward permeability increases significantly, but sensitivity to small objects decreases.
2. Reducing the number of coil turns while simultaneously adjusting the circuit. To do this, you will have to sacrifice one coil for experiments. We remove (and cut off) turn after turn until we see that the sensitivity begins to decrease. We remember the number of turns at maximum parameters, and make a new coil for this circuit. Then we change the resistor R7 to a variable one, with similar power parameters. After conducting several experiments with sensitivity, we fix the resistance and change the variable to a constant resistor.

The Pirate metal detector can be assembled using the popular Arduino controller.

It is more convenient to use such a device, but there will still be no metal discrimination.

Having figured out how to make a metal detector with your own hands for amateur tasks, we will briefly examine several serious models.

DIY metal detector Clone PI W

In essence, this is a cheaper version of the professional finder Clone PI-AVR, only instead of an LCD display, a line of LEDs is used. This is not as convenient, but still allows you to control the depth of artifacts.

The best option for the price is the CD4066 chip and ATmega8 microcontroller.

Of course, there is also a printed circuit board layout for this solution, only the control buttons are placed on a separate panel.

Programming ATmega8 is a topic for a separate article; if you have worked with such controllers, no difficulties will arise.

The powerful Clone PI W metal detector, made by yourself, allows you to find metal no more than a meter deep, although without discrimination.

Seeker "Chance"

A similar circuit on the ATmega8 controller is called “Chance”. The principle of operation is similar, only the possibility of screening out (partial discrimination) of ferrous metals has become possible.

A printed circuit board design has also been worked out, which can be successfully replaced with a classic “breadboard” for Arduino

DIY Terminator 3

If you need a homemade metal detector with metal discrimination, pay attention to this model. The scheme is quite complicated, but your efforts pay off with the coins you find, which may turn out to be gold.

The peculiarity of the “Terminator” is the separation of the receiving and transmitting coils. A 200 mm ring is made to emit the signal. 30 turns of wire are laid for it, then it is cut, as a result we get 2 half-coils with a total capacity of 60 turns (see diagram).

The receiving coil is located inside, 48 turns with a diameter of 100 mm.

The adjustment is made using an oscilloscope; after achieving optimal amplitude results, the windings are fixed in the housing by pouring epoxy resin.

Then an experimental hands-on adjustment of the discrimination switch is performed. For this, real objects made of various metals are used, and their type is marked on the mode switch (after verification).

Radio amateurs are working on an improved version of Terminator 4, but there is no practical copy yet.

Simple metal detectors from ready-made electrical appliances

Bottom line

Regardless of the complexity of the design, making a homemade metal detector will require a lot of time and effort from you. Therefore, out of curiosity, such devices are not made. But for professional use, this is an excellent alternative to factory copies.

Video on the topic