Raspberries turn black at the base. Raspberry shoots wither: how to deal with the problem

The raspberry stem fly (sometimes called the raspberry fly or raspberry stem fly) is a dangerous pest that can deprive you of the bulk of your crop, and if left untreated, your entire crop. Have you noticed the wilting of young raspberry shoots? Why do young shoots wither, how to treat? How to deal with raspberry stem fly, what to do? What do you need to know about her? The raspberry stem fly (Chortophila dentiens) hibernates in the upper layers of soil under raspberry bushes. Its flight time coincides with the time of growth of young shoots. In the Kuban, this is around mid-April. In central Russia - in mid-May.

How to deal with raspberry fly in spring? It is at this time that she crawls out of the ground and is ready for the reproduction of offspring. The raspberry fly lays one egg in each axil of the top of the raspberry leaves. A larva grows from an egg. It causes the greatest harm - making helical passages in the stem from the top down. The tip of the damaged shoot first withers, stops growing, then turns black and rots.

How to process raspberries from a raspberry fly? Knowing the timing of the departure of the pest, you can treat the young tops, for example, with Iskra or Aktellik. But the chemical method is recommended to be used only if more than 50% of the landings are damaged by the raspberry fly. Still, chemistry is not very good. She will destroy the pests, but we will also get ...

A good way to get rid of the larvae that have settled down for the winter is to dig the soil around the raspberry bushes in the fall.

In the picture below, a raspberry shoot may have been damaged by a stem fly. So far, it is only clear that he has stopped growing. The growth point does not develop, which means that the introduction of the fly into the shoot has occurred. The pest has not yet seriously damaged the stem - wilting, blackening of the leaves in front. If you didn’t manage to scare away the raspberry fly in time, then there is only one way out - pruning the damaged branches.

The fly larva, if the branch is not cut in time, can reach the base of the shoot. In this case, it can no longer be saved, it will dry up. As soon as the raspberries begin to bloom, the pest, having reached the base of the shoot, moves into the soil. There it pupates and the process repeats: fly - eggs - larvae.

If we allow the development of this process from beginning to end, then the gardener has no choice but to cut the damaged branches to the ground. But it can and should be done differently.

Why do raspberries drop tops, wither? There is a second way to deal with the raspberry fly.

As soon as you notice that the green tip of the shoot has begun to wither and the tips of the leaves turn black, cut about half of the branch. The cut parts of the branches must be burned immediately, the larvae remain there. You can’t let them survive, so you can’t be late with pruning.

By the way, you will surely notice that the flying pest lays its eggs in the tops of the most powerful shoots. These branches do not need to be cut to the ground - after all, the main crop is formed on them. In addition, strong side shoots of replacement begin to grow from the ground near them.

Half-cut strong damaged branches only if you are not too late. To the base, to the roots, cut only weak shoots.

By cutting all damaged branches as close to the ground as possible (the first method), you will deprive yourself of the main part of the crop. And if you allow the reproduction of the raspberry stem fly, then the entire crop. But the second method, on the contrary, preserves and even increases the yield of berries due to incomplete pruning.

We have listed the main methods of dealing with the raspberry fly. Now it's up to you. Good harvests!

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Raspberry bushes - description

The sinuous woody rhizome of raspberries forms many adventitious roots, due to which the raspberry root system becomes powerful and very branched. The erect stems reach a height of one and a half to two and a half meters. Shoots of the first year are herbaceous, juicy, bluish-green, covered with frequent, thin, small thorns. In the second year, the shoots become stiff and turn brown, and after fruiting they dry out, but new green stems grow in their place next spring. Raspberry leaves are petiolate, alternate, compound - with three to seven oval leaves, the upper side of the leaf plate is dark green, and the lower side is whitish due to the small pile growing on it. Small racemose inflorescences of white flowers with a diameter of about one centimeter are located in the axils of the leaves or on the tops of the stems.

The raspberry consists of small hairy drupes fused into a complex fruit. Red raspberries of various shades are most commonly grown, but yellow raspberries and even black raspberries are also cultivated. After planting, raspberries usually begin to bear fruit the next year, in the first year flower buds are only laid on its stems, from which then, from the next spring, fruit twigs develop. However, today, thanks to the efforts of breeders, there are remontant varieties of raspberries that bear fruit on the shoots of the first year.

Raspberries turn yellow

Very often readers of the site are concerned about such questions: why do raspberry leaves turn yellow And what to do if raspberries turn yellow? If it happens in the fall, then you are most likely seeing natural seasonal changes, but if the raspberries turn yellow in the spring or summer, this is a warning sign. There are several reasons for this phenomenon, and one of them is bacterial diseases of raspberry root cancer and goiter of the roots. The symptoms of these diseases are similar: growths in the form of tubers form on the roots of the plant, the growth of shoots stops, the leaves turn yellow in raspberries, and the berries lose their sweetness.

Most often, plants get sick in areas with slightly alkaline or neutral soil. To avoid infection with root cancer or goiter, carefully inspect raspberry seedlings before planting, and if you see swelling on the roots, remove the affected part of the rhizome, and treat the cut with a one percent solution of copper sulphate.

Raspberry leaves also turn yellow from various kinds of mosaics - viral diseases that appear on raspberry leaves with reticulation, mottling, spotting or stains. There is no cure for viral diseases, so try to protect raspberries from mosaic infection with good care and preventive treatments for bushes against aphids, which are the carriers of the disease. Immediately remove from the site and destroy diseased specimens.

Sometimes premature yellowing of the leaves occurs because your raspberries are too thick - the thickets are poorly ventilated, the plants do not have enough light. Do a good pruning with thinning bushes, and then feed the plants with chicken droppings or rotted manure.

Raspberry chlorosis

Another answer to the question why do raspberries turn yellow there may be pathogens of viral diseases that penetrate the tissues through cuts and fractures of the cortex. Carriers of viruses are insects - nematodes, mites or aphids, which expose raspberries to infection with such a serious disease as jaundice or chlorosis. First, the sections of the leaf plate between the veins turn yellow, then the yellowness spreads asymmetrically over the entire leaf, and it wrinkles. The shoots are stretched, thinner, the berries become small, deformed and dry quickly.

Too wet soil and too high acidity of the soil on the site provoke the development of infection. You can shift the reaction to the alkaline side by adding gypsum to the area for digging at the rate of 120 g per 1 m², and excess moisture is eliminated by reducing watering. And be sure to destroy the insects that carry the infection. If your raspberries are ill with chlorosis, you will have to dig up the affected specimens and burn them, and in the place where they grew, it will be possible to grow raspberries no earlier than in ten years: there is no cure for chlorosis yet.

Viral disease curly raspberry

The leaves of diseased plants become smaller, wrinkled and stiff, and the underside of the leaf plate becomes brown. Berries on diseased bushes become sour, deformed and dry out, and the plant itself dies within three years. Be careful, inspect the planting material for symptoms of the disease, because this disease cannot be cured, and the affected plants must be immediately removed from the site and destroyed.

Mycoplasma disease

There is another harmful disease of raspberries, which is called sprouting, or "witch's broom": the plant forms many infertile small shoots from 30 to 50 cm high - up to 200 per bush. If such a specimen appears on your site, destroy it immediately, until the disease spreads to neighboring bushes, because this disease is not treated either. Cicadas could bring it to the site, or the pathogen came to you with planting material, so be careful when buying and planting raspberries and destroy pests.

Raspberry dries

Another question often asked by our readers: why dry raspberries? This happens as a result of a violation of the rules for caring for raspberries. Here are the reasons why raspberry leaves and even raspberry stems dry:

lack of moisture;
nitrogen hunger;
too dense landing and, as a result, insufficient lighting.

Study the condition of your raspberries, identify and correct your mistakes, and do not neglect the annual pruning of second-year shoots that bear fruit.

Raspberries also dry from diseases, the description of which is given below, as well as from shoot and stem gall midges - pests, which will be discussed in a separate chapter.

raspberry rust

Sometimes the fact that raspberries dry out is due to fungal diseases of raspberries, one of which is rust. In May, dark spots appear on the underside of the leaf, raspberry leaves dry and fall off, brown ulcers appear on the stems. Sick bushes will have to be destroyed, because rust cannot be cured, but preventive measures can be taken to prevent raspberries from becoming infected with this disease. Spring and autumn treatment of raspberries with a one percent solution of Bordeaux liquid will protect the bushes from being damaged by this fungus.

raspberry spotting

More often than rust, purple spotting, or didimella, affects raspberries, as a result of which the raspberries dry out. First, light purple spots appear on young stems, which gradually blur and darken along the edges to a red-brown color, and black dots appear in the lighter center of the spots - pycnidia. Over time, the spots merge, their surface cracks, the shoots break, and the buds do not develop on them. In wet summers, the disease can cover the entire area.

Destroy the specimens infected with the fungus, treat the bushes with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture: the first time when the young shoots reach a length of 15-20 cm, the second time before flowering, the third time immediately after flowering and the last time after harvesting. Do not allow the area to become overgrown.

Powdery mildew on raspberries

A dangerous fungal disease is powdery mildew, which covers in the first half of summer, especially if the weather is wet, the ground parts of raspberries with a white loose coating, which causes the leaves to dry and the berries to deform. If you find powdery mildew in raspberries, immediately after harvesting, treat the plants in the same way, the same number of times and with the same remedy as with other fungal diseases.

Raspberry anthracnose

Anthracnose is also a fungal disease that often affects raspberries in the garden. Small gray spots with a purple rim appear on the leaves and stems of the plant, growing, merging with each other and forming ulcers, because of which the leaves curl and die, the bark on the stems exfoliates, and the berries do not have time to ripen, deform and darken. You need to fight anthracnose with the same methods as with any other fungal disease.

A neglected and thickened raspberry can also be affected by ulcerative spotting of the stems and autumn spotting - fungal diseases, the methods of dealing with which we have already mentioned to you, talking about purple spotting. If the raspberries are dry, try to immediately remove the dry stems so that insects that carry diseases do not settle in them, and it is advisable to cut the green shoots if they are weak or directed inside the bush.

Pruning is the sanitization of a shrub, and if you do it correctly and at the right time, this measure strengthens the resistance of raspberries to diseases and pests, which also settle more often on a weakened plant.

Raspberry leaves curl

This is a symptom of raspberry disease with anthracnose, which we wrote about above, but sometimes leaf deformation does not indicate a disease, but a lack of one or another element in the soil - for example, boron or potassium. If it is a lack of potassium, then the raspberry leaves are wrapped upside down. Potassium deficiency can be corrected by feeding raspberries with ash, and boron deficiency is eliminated with a solution of boric acid introduced into the soil in early summer.

Aphids on raspberries

Raspberry leaf aphids and raspberry shoot aphids are common pests of raspberries, blackberries and other horticultural berry crops. The shoot aphid settles in colonies at the ends of the shoots and in raspberry inflorescences, and the leaf aphid lives in small groups on the underside of the leaves and feeds on their juice. The shoot aphid slows down the growth of raspberries, and the leaf aphid is also a carrier of viral diseases. The way to combat aphids is to spray the plants with karbofos or actellik during the period of raspberry buds blooming.

Spider mite on raspberries

This insect affects not only raspberries, gooseberries, black and red currants, strawberries, blueberries, elderberries, roses and grapes also suffer from it. The tick, located on the underside of the leaves and feeding on their juice, braids the leaves with a thin cobweb. Damaged areas discolor, with the course of the disease, the leaves become marbled, gradually dry and eventually fall off. A harbinger of the appearance of ticks on raspberries is a steady and prolonged heat without precipitation.

An effective measure in the fight against ticks is spraying raspberry bushes (gooseberries, currants, etc.) with acaricides, which include drugs such as karbofos, phosphamide, colloidal sulfur, cidal, metaphos. If the dominance of mites is too strong, the treatment of plants with acaricides can be carried out repeatedly - up to four times a season with an interval of ten days. In order not to create a comfortable environment for ticks, in addition to watering in arid heat, they practice spraying bushes with water in the evening.

gall midges on raspberries

Raspberries and gall midges of two species are harmful - raspberry mosquito, or shoot gall midge and raspberry stem gall midge, laying eggs in cracks and damage to the bark on the lower part of the shoots, forming galls - swellings. In the affected shoots, the bark dies and exfoliates, they dry out. Shoots with characteristic signs of damage (swellings in the root sections of the stems) must be cut and destroyed along with pests, the soil in which gall midges overwinter should be dug up to a depth of 15 cm in spring and autumn, and the plants should be treated with karbofos or actellik.

The raspberry nutworm behaves in a similar way, laying larvae in raspberry shoots, on which galls form from this. If this pest is found, it is necessary to spray raspberries with the same karbofos or actellik, as well as ambush, before flowering begins.

raspberry beetle

This is a medium-sized insect up to 4 mm in length, covered with yellow or gray hairs. It hibernates in the upper layer of the soil, and by the end of May moves into raspberry buds and eats them out, also damaging open flowers and leaves. At the end of July, the larvae again return to the soil, pupate there in order to turn into beetles in the fall.

It is necessary to get rid of raspberry beetles during the budding period, shaking them off the bush and destroying them. It is obligatory to dig the soil under the bushes and between the rows during the period of pupation of the larvae. Good results in the destruction of this pest are obtained by spraying raspberries with confidor, decis or a ten percent solution of karbofos.

Strawberry-raspberry weevil

This bug harms not only raspberries, but also strawberries, so the appearance of a weevil in a summer cottage is highly undesirable. Beetles hibernate under fallen leaves and clods of earth, and in spring they lay their eggs in buds, where the larva feeds on the flower, eating it from the inside. One female weevil, laying one egg per bud, can damage up to 50 flowers in this way. In June-July, a new generation of weevil appears, eating leaves.

To prevent the beetles from destroying the crop, spray the raspberries during budding and no later than five days before the flowers open with karbofos, actellik, metaphos or other preparations of a similar effect.

Raspberry kidney moth

This is a butterfly with dark brown wings with small golden spots, a moth caterpillar is red with a dark brown head. Most of all, this insect harms early raspberry varieties. Caterpillars hibernate in cracks in the stems or under plant debris on the ground, and in early spring they move to the shoots and gnaw out the buds, and then they penetrate into the pulp of the shoot, pupate there at the end of May, and from the beginning of raspberry flowering, butterflies fly out of the pupae, laying eggs in raspberry flowers . The caterpillars that emerged from them eat the berries, destroying the raspberry crop.

In order not to help the kidney moth breed, when pruning old shoots, do not leave stumps from them. Spray raspberries with confidor, spark, decis, or a three percent emulsion of karbofos in early spring, when the buds are just starting to swell.

Raspberry stem fly

It is also a dangerous pest, the larvae of which gnaw out spiral passages inside the stems from above to the roots, which makes the tops of the shoots wither, then turn black and rot. When flowering begins, the larvae go into the soil, where they overwinter and turn into butterflies that fly out in the spring and lay larvae that eat the stem from the inside. Carefully inspect the bushes and immediately cut off the affected tops of the shoots to a healthy stem. Spray raspberries with actellik or karbofos in early spring, when they are just starting to grow shoots. In the fall, remove fallen leaves from the site.

The raspberry glass case behaves in approximately the same way, but it prefers to spend the winter in the core of the raspberry stem or root, forming swellings on them. That is why it is very difficult to destroy it with an insecticide. Cut out old shoots that will no longer bear fruit, leaving no hemp from them, make sure that there are no cracks and mechanical damage on the stems.

How to process raspberries - prevention

Raspberry processing in spring

As soon as the snow melts and the earth begins to warm up, clean up the area where the raspberries grow: cut off the frostbitten tops of the shoots, remove the stems that are broken or different in color, as well as those that grow inside the bush. Rake last year's foliage and burn it, and apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil on the site and embed them in the ground. After that, tie the raspberry to the trellis and inspect it again for trimming - you might have missed something.

Treatment of raspberries from diseases

It is best to spray raspberries in the spring with nitrafen or Bordeaux liquid as a preventive measure, and you need to process not only the bushes, but also the soil under them. The first spraying should be carried out before the buds begin to bloom. Whether it will be necessary to repeat the treatment in the spring and in the summer depends on what ailments you noticed in raspberries last year. However, after harvesting, it is necessary to carry out the last treatment of raspberries and soil under the bushes this year with nitrafen or Bordeaux liquid in order to destroy pathogens that could appear on raspberries during the summer months.

Processing raspberries from pests

In early spring, before the buds open, treat the raspberries with karbofos or actellik. If you carry out such processing twice a year, cut off unnecessary stems in time and observe the agrotechnical conditions for growing raspberries, then you will not have to complain about either the health of the plant or the fruit harvest. If during the last growing season you noticed some pests on raspberries, then fight them using our information - treat raspberries with insecticides in accordance with the type of pest and as many times as necessary to get rid of it. The last insecticide treatment of the season should be carried out after harvesting.

Processing raspberries in autumn

Raspberry dressing

How to feed raspberries

You need to start fertilizing raspberries even when planting, planting a large amount of manure and mineral fertilizers into the soil for digging. After that, the need for top dressing arises only after two seasons, that is, in the third spring. In the spring, raspberries need nitrogen fertilizers, which must be applied annually over snow at the rate of 8 g of urea or 12 g of ammonium nitrate per square meter.

In autumn, 100 g of ash (as potassium-phosphorus fertilizers) and 6 kg of humus or manure per unit area must be applied to the soil - autumn top dressing is applied once every two years and only if you did not use manure or humus as mulch. The exception is raspberries located on sandy loam - such soil requires annual fertilization. Loamy soils need to be fertilized every two years, but the dosage is increased by a quarter. Manure can be successfully replaced with compost by adding ash and mineral fertilizers to it.

Raspberry fight

How to deal with raspberries

All varieties of raspberries give basal shoots - some less, others more. This growth is spreading over the raspberries, and if you gape, then it will even be where it should not be. The easiest way is to cut unnecessary shoots with a sharp shovel to a depth of ten centimeters, but leave them in the same place where they will gradually dry out. In order to protect the garden from the penetration of raspberry shoots into it, the raspberries are fenced with pieces of slate dug into the ground to a depth of 35-40 cm.

You can also plant garlic or sorrel around raspberry bushes, and even better - beans Plants on M

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Readers often ask why plant leaves wither. It happens on an apple tree and a plum tree, on cucumbers and eggplants, on asters and strawberries, .. At first, the leaves grow normally, and suddenly they begin to fade, although the soil has not dried up.

In all cases, infections are the cause, but diseases can be different. Another thing is alarming: many do nothing! Sometimes diseased leaves (branches) will be cut off and that's it! And often dry branches remain in the crown. It is unacceptable! In this case, the disease will be repeated from year to year!

ROOT OF EVIL

If vegetables and strawberries wither, then the problem is in the roots. Infections affect the vascular system of the roots, blocking the access of moisture to the leaves, causing them to wither. In eggplants, cucumbers, the leaves hang like rags. Later they begin to dry out.

The disease can proceed very quickly, the plant dies in 3-4 days. But sometimes the process is extended in time. It all depends on the conditions (weather, care) and how "evil the infection" is.

Leaves wither when fusarium and verticillium wilt. The second disease is often referred to as "wilt". The symptoms are very similar, and only professionals can distinguish between diseases. Since the roots are affected, various diseases have been combined under the general name "root rot".

Pathogens are fungi that live in the soil. If it is infected, then the plants suffer from year to year.

The infection is spread around the area with a garden tool or on shoes. As a result, different crops can be affected - strawberries, clematis, eggplants ...

Control measures. Depending on the course of the disease, leaf wilting may temporarily stop, for example, in cloudy weather and immediately after watering. Therefore, the gardener gets the impression that the plant lacks moisture. Frequent watering begins, which is a gross mistake! Waterlogging the soil, on the contrary, accelerates the development of the disease.

Plants need to be treated. Fungicides are used against fungal infections. Of the public ones, these are MAXIM and VITAROS. The solution is watered under the root at the very beginning of the disease (when the leaves wither, but do not dry out yet). If the process is strongly started, then the plant is very difficult to save. In some crops (asters, strawberries), it is better to dig a bush along with the soil, and spill the hole with a fungicide. Do not put these plants in the compost, only burn them!

In the initial stage of the disease, the plant can be cured. An example is clematis. Sometimes the aerial part dries out completely, but the root remains alive, and the clematis grows back.

Sometimes the disease affects the plant already with fruits. It is a pity to lose such a bush, say eggplant. And chemicals cannot be used - they will turn into fruits.

GLIOCLADIN will help. It is a biological fungicide to suppress fungal infections in the soil. And again, you can not delay the treatment!

As soon as you notice that the leaves are withering and the soil is wet, immediately apply Gliocladin. 3-4 tablets under a bush to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Be sure to mulch the soil so that it does not dry out, otherwise the drug will not work.

Despite the fact that one or two plants are affected, the tablets must be placed under all the bushes so that they do not get sick. If the disease was last year, do not guess whether it will be or not. Apply Glyocladin

NOW!

From biological preparations on healthy plants, Alirin, Gamair, Fitosporin, Fitolavin can be used. This is an excellent prevention of root rot and other fungal infections.

Grow plants in loose soil, do not allow crusting. For this purpose, mulch the soil in the root zone.

After harvesting, disinfect the soil in the greenhouse with the same fungicides. Observe the change of crops, do not plant cucumbers in the same place two years in a row.

The infection can be brought into the garden with purchased seedlings. It is very useful when planting to immediately shed the soil with a fungicide, and put Gliocladin tablets under the roots.

IF BRANCHES DRY

In spring and early summer, leaves often dry on plum, felt cherry, less often on apple and pear. At first they simply wither, and then dry up and remain hanging on the branches.

Here another infection is moniliosis. By the nature of the lesion (brown leaves, as if burned), the disease is called monilial burn

The causative agent is also a fungus. Penetrates the leaves and flowers of plants through their stomata and wounds caused by insects. The infection spreads gradually: first, young shoots wither, and then the fungus penetrates deeper and deeper, affecting perennial branches.

If nothing is done, then you can lose half the tree! Sometimes large dry branches are visible for a long time in the crown. Against the background of healthy branches, they stand out with a dead brown color.

Young seedlings die completely, usually in the spring, as soon as the leaves have blossomed.

But the gardener hopes that the tree will revive, and does not touch the branches until next year. And this is a carrier of infection!

With moniliosis, do not wait for the infection to develop when it destroys a large branch. Start by pruning small wilted shoots. In this case, the disease can be stopped.

Control measures. When the leaves on a plum, cherry, apple tree wither, the affected branches must be cut off with the capture of a healthy part (with leaves that have not yet wilted).

After pruning, spray the plant with fungicides on copper-based Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture or Horus preparation.

Annually carry out such spraying in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Re-treatment after flowering is also desirable. Avoid dense plantings, prune regularly and thin out the crown.

Everyone has their own fashion and hobbies, and therefore it is sometimes very nice to find like-minded people, evaluate their stamp collection or skill in a particular game. Here are collected various videos that are dedicated to a particular hobby. It doesn't matter if you like chess, tennis or collecting wild, wild animals under your roof - here you will be able to find good video content to your liking.

Now it is very popular both on the net and in reality one hobby available for the most part only to the female sex - Make-up on camera. It will seem to ordinary viewers that in these videos the girls simply put on makeup and inflate an elephant out of a fly. But in fact, these beauties showcase their artistic skills, which have developed over the years. In such videos you can find tips, life hacks, and highlight many useful moments that you missed in your life. Curvy models and their stylists will tell you which eye shadows to choose and which dresses to match your hairstyle. For many women, this has become a kind of hobby, to which they devote almost their entire lives.

In addition to make-up, many girls simply love shopping, and therefore they often upload their trips to the local shopping center on Youtube, where they buy clothes and begin to review and measure them. Such girls often collect a whole collection of various outfits at home, and some could even open their own store and sell clothes for several years - they have so many purchased outfits. And all their vast collection gets into the camera lens. To be honest, it’s not clear to me why many girls watch this, but such content has customers and it’s a little strange.

However, not only girls love fashion and style and have distinguished themselves with their hobbies, men also have many different hobbies that can amaze you to the core. Some people collect napkins from stores, some people like to play sports games (which is crazy in itself), but there are also those who spend all day molesting women and collecting their kisses. At the same time, they prefer to record their adventures on a video camera, and then put the videos on public display and make themselves great machos.

In any case, there are so many different hobbies, activities, activities in our world, and all of them can captivate a person with a certain mindset for some time, or maybe even for a lifetime. There are so many of them that there is simply no point in listing them further. On this page you can find hundreds of different videos, and they can be about anything. After all, how many people - so many hobbies. Each person can invent for himself a certain “killer” of time. Sometimes you may even be surprised at what the human brain is capable of when it is bored, but do not be surprised if your own hobbies are strange to someone.

Look at people doing what they love, laugh at the stupidity of what is happening, or emphasize for yourself certain things that you can find applications in your life. Here, for the most part, entertainment and informational and stylish video content is collected.

Vitaly asks us a question of the following plan: “Inside the growth that formed on the stem of a raspberry, a white worm with a flattened body was found. What is this pest and how to deal with it?

We answer - you met with none other than the raspberry fly worm.

In addition to the signs listed above in the question, there are a number of characteristics by which a pest can be recognized:

How to save bushes

If you see that the tops of the shoots have drooped, you must immediately remove them. It is important to find the holes that the larva has made in order to get inside. It should be done so that not a single hole and larvae remain on the stem and branches.

This means that you can remove up to half of the stem. If the raspberries are strong, the pruned branches will begin to bush and give new shoots. During the summer, it is recommended to use a tool such as Karbofos. You can also try to loosen the soil, but you won’t destroy all the larvae like that.

Spraying is carried out before flowering a couple of times. In this case, the shoots should not exceed 15 centimeters. An excellent effect is given by the Aktellika solution. For 10 liters of water, 15 milliliters of the product is taken. Raspberries are processed according to the scheme: 1.5 liters per 10 square meters.

Glass case on raspberries

Similar worms and raspberry glass. But in this case, the wintering of the caterpillars takes place at the base of the stem. Raspberry glass looks like a blue-black butterfly. Her body is thin, the wingspan is up to 26 millimeters. In males, there are transverse yellow stripes on the abdomen - 4 pieces. The females have 3 of them.

White 27 mm caterpillars have yellowish-brown heads. Pectoral and anal shields of the same color. Pupae are light brown. In length, they reach 24 millimeters.

pest control

This problem should be dealt with in this way: in the summer, remove and burn withered shoots, and in the fall, get rid of the fruiting stems.
The natural enemies of the pest are braconids and tahini. They can quickly reduce the number of glass cases.
When planting new bushes, bad material should be carefully discarded.
Compliance with agrotechnical rules also plays an important role. You should also try to prevent mechanical damage to the bushes in a timely manner.
Regularly inspect the bushes for the presence of glass.