When acquiring a land plot, the most pressing question is how to build a dacha and, importantly, how to build a dacha cheaply.

There are many ways to build a country house. It can be built from brick, expanded clay concrete, wood, gas silicate blocks or a combined material. Each material has advantages and disadvantages, so the choice depends on the purpose of the building and the functions required of it.

In order to build a cottage inexpensively with your own hands, you should pay attention to frame construction. Frame houses are built very quickly, and if you use inexpensive finishing materials, such houses are much cheaper than others.

Our example tells how to properly build a cottage on a frame basis. We will build a one-story house, with a veranda and a gable roof.

Stages of building a cottage

1. Pouring the foundation

Any construction starts with a foundation. For our frame house, we need a columnar foundation. First, with a hand drill, we drill holes 80-100 cm deep along the perimeter and over the entire area of ​​​​the future structure. As a formwork, a roofing material tube with a diameter of 20 cm is used. We insert roofing material sleeves into the corner pits and fill it with concrete mix, insert the studs.

Then we fill in all the other piles, level, tamp the ground around the pillars. We leave the concrete to "ripen".

2. Lower frame trim

From the boards with a section of 15x5 cm, laid on the foundation, we make the lower harness. We fix all strapping boards with screws. We align the lower part of the frame and make grooves for the floor log, having previously marked their location.

We attach the logs to the strapping and the pillars of the foundation. Be sure to do antiseptic treatment of the boards.

3. Draft floor

We lay the subfloor boards on evenly spaced logs. After fixing them, we cover them with glassine, attach the bars and lay a layer of foam.

We add bars at the junction of moisture-resistant OSB boards and put another layer of foam. Gaps and cracks are sealed with mounting foam.

We complete the creation of the platform by laying 12 mm OSB boards and fixing them with nails.

4. House walls

There are several ways to build the walls of a frame house. You can initially build the entire frame from load-bearing boards, and then do wall cladding or build each wall separately. In our case, the frame of a separate wall is first fixed, and then sheathed with slabs. Be sure to use jibs to support the structure.

In the right places we make openings for windows and doors, strengthening them with additional bars. We install interior partitions and top trim.

5. Rafter system

After the final construction of the walls, we proceed to the installation of rafters, pre-made from timber according to the template. The structure is reinforced with a horizontal lintel.

We cover the rafters with a waterproofing material and make a crate and a counter-batten of the roof. We attach an anti-condensation film. We cover the roof with a metal profile with a wave height of 21 mm. We close up facades with plates.

6. Exterior finish

We cover all external walls of the house with siding over OSB boards. We install windows and doors.

How to build a country house with your own hands

Here is a bunch of starting material. These are 9 concrete blocks, 4 cubes of wood - mostly 6 meter boards 5x10, but there are also 10x10 and three 10x15 - for the base. There are ordinary edged boards. Delivered April 28, 2007.

We started on the morning of April 29th. They dug holes for the blocks, filled them with sand and put concrete blocks there. Foundations were laid on the blocks.

The site is of course with a slope, therefore, in order to comply with horizontal lines, we artificially increase some blocks in height in such a simple way.

All base beams are laid on blocks, 5x10 boards are stuffed on top - these are the lower logs of the black floor. All sides, including diagonals, are level.

They put nailed on the logs and trimmed the boards of the subfloor. In theory, they had to be processed from below, for example, by mining. But we did not do this due to its absence.

On top of the black floor boards, we spread waterproofing (in our case, Izospan D). On it, in accordance with the drawing, logs of the white floor were placed at a certain distance - they are placed on the end. On top of the log along the edges, boards of the so-called. bottom harness. The logs of the white floor take on the main load of the weight of the house (and transfer it to the base).

10x10 corner posts were placed at the corners of the lower trim, aligned with a plumb line and fixed with temporary braces. Beams of the upper trim were placed on top of them. Then, between the upper and lower strapping, they began to insert wall racks - exactly on top of the lag of the white floor.

By the end of the first day of construction, we put all the racks in place, and put the logs on top for the floor of the second floor. So that the house would not stagger, they strengthened the corners with such jibs. You could also insert a couple of these in the center of each "long" side of the wall for reliability ...

On the second day of construction (April 30), we threw boards on the logs of the second floor (the future floor of the 2nd floor) and spent half a day making rafter legs (leaned against the back of the house in the photo). After that, they were lifted with the help of 2 people, on the 2nd floor they were received by two more, put on the ends of the lag and held. The third person installed the stack on a plumb line and nailed it with temporary braces to ... anything (floor boards, walls).

And so we put them one by one. I will note one feature of the frame - the rafters were placed on the logs, and did not hang from them. And since the logs were taken out of the walls by 50 cm, they formed a visor.

By the end of the second day, the frame was completely ready. The rafters are installed and fixed between themselves and the house with jibs.

It can be seen that all the load-bearing elements are aligned with the lower lags - racks, upper lags, rafters.

20 days of work in the city have passed, and now on May 20 I came to the field to continue construction. He began to cover the waterproofing (Izospan D) on the rafters, pressing it to the rafters with thin strips. On top of the slats began to fill the crate. To get 7 meters (offsets of 50 cm on the sides) I had to put two pieces - 5 and 2 m. The joints of the boards went up the roof in a checkerboard pattern (the first "purlin" - the joint on the left, the 2nd - the joint on the right, etc.). At first I set the distance between the purlins at random, and only then did I learn about the special dimensions for a metal-tile roof.

That's how it was in the beginning.

...and so it was in the end. The crate took 2 days of work. On June 2, I brought a roof - a metal tile. Carried on two cars from Moscow (150 kg per roof).

For a day of work together, we managed to finish one roof slope. Of course, I did it for the first time - it turned out a little crooked. But how even the second slope turned out! The roof was fixed with special self-tapping screws (bought together with the roof).

I spent almost a month and a half on business trips. I arrived to continue construction only on July 14th. I brought a white floor and lining (6m) on a truck for external wall cladding. I put the white floor inside the house upside down (so that the front side does not darken and that it dries).

I inserted the windows into the places pre-designated for them - onto the mounting foam. I put a window sill under the window frame.

On the second floor, I normally laid and nailed the floor boards. Pre-leaving the hatch for the stairs.

On the pediment he placed vertical wall studs. I had to figuratively cut them under the inclined rafter boards.

The next day, they put windproofing on the wall (Izospan A). They didn’t think for a long time - they just wrapped the house a couple of times with a roll, and then cut out holes for the windows and the door with a knife.

On top of the wind insulation, they began to sheathe the walls with clapboard. We started from the most difficult places - from the back wall. The lining was not sawn, it was sewn entirely (6 m), then cut off at the ends. Sewed with naturally galvanized nails.

After the first floor was sheathed (1.5 days), work continued with the gables. Pieces of vapor barrier were figuratively cut out. Also figuratively had to cut out the lining for sheathing.

Here I will especially pay attention to the gap that appeared between the upper strapping and the floor of the 2nd floor. This gap is the height of the remote logs. Although they are hemmed from below, forming a visor on the street, it still BLOWS VERY STRONGLY into this gap. And it blows both on the first and on the second floor. It must be closed. This will be shown next.

A few days passed, and they brought me a heater ordered in advance in Pushkino. I basically chose a material like "stone wool" - slabs based on basalt fiber. Further, from the whole variety of these plates, I chose Rocklight made in Ryazan (the cheapest). The package consists of 10 boards with dimensions 1200x600x50 mm. One package is 0.432 m3. To insulate the whole house (1st and 2nd floor), I need 10 cubic meters. In short, I brought 24 of these packs.



External work has ended, internal work has begun. Started by insulating the floor. The slabs were cut with a knife and placed between the joists of the first floor. Two plates.

After laying one row of insulation, I covered it with a vapor barrier (Izospan B) with a bend on the walls. After that, he moved the floor boards to this place, freeing up the next space for insulation.

Pleasant little things that are difficult to reach - the insertion of glass into the windows, do-it-yourself moldings-cornices from the windows.

I made the door myself. An analogy with walls is a frame, insulation inside, steam and wind insulation, sheathing on both sides with clapboard. Under the lining of the outer (street) side, I put a galvanized sheet of iron. This should make it harder to cut down the door with an ax :)

After the floor was insulated, I started laying white floor boards on top. The technology is simple - the first board is placed, nailed into the protruding spike at an angle. Then the second board is placed (the thorn of the first board enters the groove of the second) and is sewn with force to the first board - to minimize the gaps between the boards. For myself, I decided that 1mm is acceptable, but I tried to reduce it to nothing. To do this, in several places such brackets were driven into the logs. Then wedges were driven between the bracket and the board, which supported the board and reduced the gaps. After this, the board was nailed, the wedges and the bracket were removed. Of course, some boards "a little" dried out, and turned into "screws" ... I had to suffer especially with them.

A third of the floor has been laid.

To protect against moisture and the sun, I decided to paint the walls with a special impregnation. Chose "Pinotex". First I painted with a colorless layer, and then with a color scheme (color). The store said that colorless in itself does not protect anything, it protects only with color. The thing is quite poisonous - in the house, after painting the walls, it is impossible to stay for a week.

Finally, I got to sealing the cracks in the ceiling, which were mentioned earlier. Everything was decided quite simply - a piece of lining was cut along the width of the next slot, nailed to the upper lining of the wall sheathing (for this it was necessary to remove the floor on the second floor in this place), closing the gap. From the inside, a piece of vapor barrier was inserted (not blown through) and fixed with bars along the logs (ceilings).

This is what it looks like from the second floor. I had to remove a couple of floor boards to make it convenient to work.

After the floor was laid, I proceeded to insulate the walls. The technology is the same as with the floor. Previously, I only inserted additional crossbars between the uprights - I'm going to sheathe the clapboard vertically from the inside.

A vapor barrier (Izospan V) is also laid on top of the insulation here. It is fixed with brackets using a special construction stapler. Wherever possible, overlaps are made along the edges.

The cornice protects the window and part of the wall from water flowing from the pediment. And grilles protect the whole house from thieves. So far, this, alas, is a necessary measure - in winter there is no one on the fields, but there were "cases".

No sooner had the last gratings been screwed on than the snow began to fall. It happened exactly on Pokrov, October 14th.

This is what the house looked like on October 14, 2007. In total, I spent probably a month on the construction. He did it alone if possible, but on difficult things, of course, he called for help (framework, rafters, lathing, roofing, sheathing). At the moment, the entire first floor has been insulated, except for the shelf - I have not had time to finish it yet. The inside has not yet been sheathed with clapboard. So far spent ~ 80 thousand rubles. And there's more to do...


Literally a few days before the New Year 2008, he insulated the ceiling. Now the entire first floor is insulated. Practice has shown that with 4.2 kW of gas heating, the temperature rises to 20 degrees in half an hour (outside -7) and is maintained at +17 with constant heating of 1.2 kW.

After acquiring a suburban area for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes relevant. Well, to build it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, a huge “palace” is conceived, requiring the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually compact buildings are chosen for summer cottages, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for summer cottage construction is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.

Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the place and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.

Proe kt of a small country house

The size of the future home largely depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage, the number of family members and the material capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose an inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and time.

In any case, the first steps are drafting

Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Buildings of a larger area are erected much less frequently, and, mainly, in those cases when they are planned to be operated year-round. But this is more likely to be not a country house, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the location of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that may be established by the board of the gardening partnership, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. Most often, the following distances are required:

• The house should be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring site, and from the fence separating the site from the general passage (street) - at 5 meters.
• In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone structure, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden structure.
• So that the house does not cover neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building, at least equal to its height.

Usually, the highest is chosen for the installation of a country house. place in the area where water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. High humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always negatively affect the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, the following technologies for its construction are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log cabins, walls made of blocks or bricks.

For summer cottages, projects of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are mainly chosen. Often the building has an attic used to store garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday life, but which can always come in handy in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes also play the role of a ceiling.

If the family is large, and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be given over to the living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor - to arrange cozy sleeping places for the whole family.

Not necessarily in a country house, to build a full-fledged second floor, since an attic superstructure can perfectly fulfill its role. Having finished it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful healthy country atmosphere there.

Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for space heating should still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Usually, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast-iron heating and cooking stoves.

By the way, if the construction of a real fireplace or a brick oven is planned, then they must be included in the draft project.

There are also ready-made options for country houses, which are sold as a set in disassembled form, which you just need to deliver to the site and assemble. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions that set out the procedure for carrying out work, the main technological methods and the connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.

For land owner, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house on your own. The main advantage of this option can be called the fact that often the kit already includes everything necessary for the electrical network of the building, for its ventilation system, and even for the installation of water supply.

Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name

What type of house to choose?

Having decided on a rough plan for the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. Not only the type of the building itself will depend on this choice, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.

• The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. A wooden house can be built in a frame way, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, special fire-retardant impregnations are on sale, which significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is the neglect of the elementary requirements of fire safety by people in the vast majority of cases that causes a fire.

• The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with great reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less prone to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and a high price for materials.

• Very often, when building a country house, different materials are used. For example, a house is built of wood, but on a foundation of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since the foundation of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of wood walls, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house.

It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.

Stages of building a country house

Materials for building a country house

If there is no desire to mess around with calculations, then it is better to purchase a prefabricated model of a house that has a certain area, for which you will only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Prices for various types of timber

foundation material

For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:

- sand, gravel, cement;

- third-rate board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

- waterproofing material (roofing material);

- expanded clay of the middle fraction.

Wall and roof material

Since wood was chosen for the construction of walls, then, based on this, other materials will be selected:

- bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;

- fasteners - nails, screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening knots;

- vapor barrier film;

- insulation - mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;

- to cover the roof, it is better to choose a light material - ondulin or corrugated board.

After the installation site of the future house is determined, the materials are purchased, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. True, to begin with, you still have to decide on its type.

The foundation of a country house

Even when building such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you can’t do without a foundation. In the case under consideration, one of two types is ideally suited for this purpose - this is a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.

• The columnar foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.

How to build correctly, you can find out with all the details by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a strip foundation, you will need not only more materials, but also a fairly long time. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug around the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install the reinforcing structure, build the formwork and fill the pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will also take a month to completely solidify the filled tape and set it to brand strength.

However, the strip foundation is still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient in that it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, for this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by clicking on the link provided.

If a columnar foundation is chosen, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then fill in the resulting pit with a layer of sand of 30 ÷ 40 mm, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion medium fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be covered with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done so that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They do not tolerate expanded clay (especially small ones), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.

Expanded clay of small fraction - an excellent remedy for rodents

To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.

Construction of a frame structure

For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure

The frame house can be placed both on a columnar and on a strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be securely waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material.

• If the project provides for a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general frame of the walls. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• Without exception, all wooden blanks must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of nests of insects or colonies of representatives of microflora - mold or fungus.

• After the blanks have been properly prepared and completely dry, during construction, the lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to mount the floor.

For the floor to be reliable, for the frame it is necessary to take high-quality bars of the desired section. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of sizes, but by laying a certain margin in their cross section.

The table shows the optimal dimensions of a timber for a frame house:

• The support beams of the frame are mounted on coronal bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are fixed with the help of corners or by tie-in. If the elements are large in cross section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.

• When the lower trim with support beams is ready, wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then, in finished form, are lifted and fixed to the frame strapping bars.

Another option is to lift the frame directly in place. For example, if a house is being built on its own, without assistants, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the shade alone to the height of the strapping, set it evenly and temporarily, until it is finally fixed, fix it. And this means that each of the bars will have to be set separately.

• The size of the bars for the racks of the wall frame should be at least 100 × 100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross section of at least 50 × 150 mm.

The bars are fixed to the lower harness with the help of powerful corners that are able to keep them in a vertical position. It is best to use not nails, but a self-tapping screw for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• When installing vertical racks, you must immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they should be installed in the frame free, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.

Then, when the upper strapping bar is installed and fixed on all other vertical racks, the section with the window opening is fixed in the place left for it.

• All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal braces on both sides - they will stiffen the entire wall structure.

• The doorway is equipped in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since the hinged door has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.

• If it is planned to sheathe the frame on the outside with clapboard, then the next step is to carry out this event. Sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow you to continue the installation of the attic floor and

The installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof is covered with a roof on the same day. It is highly undesirable for a freshly laid floor covering to get wet if it suddenly rains at night. Therefore, it is better to solve the issue with the roof first, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of truss systems

A few words need to be said about the types of truss systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, you need to have a general idea about this, to know which design is better to choose.

Rafter systems are of two types - hanging and layered.

Hanging system

The hanging truss system is distinguished by the fact that it is arranged only on external load-bearing walls and does not have other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, the hanging rafters are fastened with a puff.

The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously be a frame for filing the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.

Layered system

The layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal capital partitions that will become additional points of support. Such a scheme can also be used in the construction of the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on a foundation.

With this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so fewer retaining elements can be used. It is great for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.

floor beams

An important structural element - floor beams

The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit snugly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

Beams are fixed to the frame structure of the walls with nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.

Having completed the installation of the overlapping beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary boarding is laid on the floor beams to ensure the comfort of moving along the attic plane during the installation of rafters.

Installation of the truss system

The roof truss system can be mounted using a different sequence of fixing its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the extreme pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then raise them to the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and already mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
• Second option. To begin with, install the middle racks along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge bar or board, on which the rafters are then attached.
• Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are fastened together with a ridge pad, and their lower side is fixed on the wall trim, which in this embodiment will act as a Mauerlat.

The cross section of the beams or logs used for the rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two fulcrum, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters

The maximum allowable length of the rafter leg (in mm)	Rafter spacing (in mm)
	1100		1400		1750		2100
	Section of the rafter leg (in mm)
	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø
up to 3000	80×100	100	80×100	130	90×100	150	90×160	160
up to 3600	80×130	130	80×160	160	80×180	180	90×180	180
up to 4300	80×160	160	80×180	180	90×180	180	100×200	200
up to 5000	80×180	180	80×200	200	100×200	200	-	-
up to 5800	80×200	200	100×200	200	-	-	-	-
up to 6500	100×200	200	120×220	240	-	-	-	-

It should be noted that the rafter attachment point in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened on the ridge and how long they are.

If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a cut is shown in the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut off at a right angle with respect to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed on it using a special mounting plate, sliding support, corner, bracket, nails or long self-tapping screws.

If the house is very small, then after fixing the rafters on the strapping, tying them with a ridge beam or board, you most likely will not have to install additional retaining elements.

Detailed information about the exact one can be obtained from a special publication of our portal by clicking on the recommended link:

For the installation of additional, reinforcing elements of the truss system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for roofing.

• The first thing that needs to be done from the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with brackets, and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.

The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower, eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.

• The main crate is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the roofing material sheets.

If, however, a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of the laths of the lathing, the slopes are covered with a solid one - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing material, which overlaps by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and is glued together with bituminous mastic. Another option is to use soft bituminous decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.

• For wooden houses, the following roofing materials are most often used (depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
  

• On the prepared base, the selected roofing material is laid and fixed. Work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are mounted in the same way.

Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation scheme in the direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions attached to them.

Also, for any type of sheet roofing materials, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm), and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction, along the roof, is determined.

• Almost all roofing materials are fixed on the crate with the help of special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to choose and fix the ridge elements of the roof correctly, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Usually the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
• Further, the cornice overhang of the roof is finished - this can be done with a wooden or plastic clapboard. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.

• Then, elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the windboard - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.

• Further, the gable sides of the truss system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards are used for this.

For lining along the perimeter of the gable triangle, a special profile is fixed, into which panels prepared and cut at the right angle will be installed. Installation is usually carried out symmetrically - from the middle rack to one and then the other side - then the skin will turn out to be even and neat.

By the way, to mount the lining, Besides, you can horizontally, herringbone or come up with a more complex pattern.

Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.

Now, having finished the external roofing and being sure that the rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can proceed to the installation of windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.

Installation of windows and doors

• Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them, set according to the level. For preliminary fixation, when the frame is set, spacers made of wooden bars or slats are installed between it and the bars of the opening.

Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give accuracy to the general appearance of the house.

• The installation of the door is best done together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure to the level in the doorway of the wall.

The door is best installed as a block - together with the frame and leaf

Exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, enclose wedges (inserts) from wooden slats. The door frame is fixed to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with mounting foam.

Having installed windows and doors in all, you can proceed to the installation of the floor.

Installation and floor insulation

To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.

• To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame load-bearing beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.

• Further, boards sawn exactly to size are laid on the cranial bars, or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
• From above, the laid subfloor is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are overlapped (by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and glued at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Further, insulating material is laid or poured on the vapor barrier film. If there is no desire to have as neighbors who like to settle under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.

• On top of the insulation, another layer of film membrane is laid, which is nailed to the supporting beams with brackets. The laying principle is exactly the same as on the subfloor.

With the floor - finished!

• Then the whole structure is covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is absent, place the insulation along the inner slopes of the roof.

• First, vapor barrier material is fixed to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. At the same time, insulation mats are laid between the racks of the frame. It is necessary to make sure that the mats stand as tightly as possible with an emphasis on the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.

That is why mineral wool is most often used as a heater - after dense laying between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.

• After that, all walls are again tightened with a vapor barrier film.

• The next step is wall cladding with wooden clapboard, plywood or. The latter, with subsequent decorative wall decoration, can be painted with water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Further, the attic floor is insulated, where the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

If the ceiling is sheathed from the side of the house with drywall or clapboard, then we must not forget that it is impossible to step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. It is necessary to move carefully along the floor beams.

• In the event that the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden accessories, then on top of the insulation on the floor beams, it is necessary to fix the flooring from boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm.
• The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor plinths and closing the corners with fittings.

Extensions to the house

The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and on the porch.

If space is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.

Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to manage without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable craftsman who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how certain nodes are correctly mounted in the house structure. You can "mobilize" relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.

Video: construction of a country house using frame technology

If you decide to build a house on your own summer cottage, then the first problem that you will have is what material to use for work. In addition, other issues may come up in this process. What can you build a house from? What will be more practical? Which material will last the longest? Choose an ordinary brick or try modern technology? And if you really care about such questions, then from this article you can find out the answers to them.

So, now you have a huge selection of building materials than a couple of decades ago. Today it is possible to build a house from gas silicate blocks, from wood. You can also build a house on your site using frame-panel technology. But no one canceled the brick either. Some trust the construction of a house to specialists, and very soon they are already happy with a beautiful brick house. As a result, it is up to you to decide what to build a country house from. We, in turn, would like to tell you about different materials for building a house. About their properties, different costs, moisture resistance, sound insulation, all the pros and cons, and much more.

Building a brick house

This article will let you know about what is better to build a country house from. First of all, it is worth talking about the popular building material - brick. So, brick is the most durable material. Approximately 100-150 years, or maybe more, a house made of brick structures will serve you.

Elderly residents of cities can confirm that in their cities there are many different, very old buildings that are over 100 years old, they are all intact and built of brick. But let's not advertise the brick very much. A building made of it will be durable and last for a long time only if the brick is of high quality and the finished house is well looked after. Of course, building a brick house is not so easy, and if technical errors are made during construction, then the quality of the house will not be adequate.

In this case, the thermal insulation falls and the weather resistance will no longer be the same. The main factor is dampness, over time it can destroy the masonry. We want to note that in order for the finished brick building to be more resistant to dampness, it must be plastered. First you need to seal all the cracks and holes with cement, wipe the seams, and only then start plastering and insulation.

For insulation, the technology of ventilated facades is used, when pieces of insulation are attached to the surface of the wall, covered with membrane-like moisture insulation, and then decorated with siding, clapboard or something else. There is no other way to prevent moisture from entering the brick. And it is impossible to allow moisture to get inside the brick. If moisture penetrates through poor quality plaster into a brick, then it expands there when it freezes and forms small gaps, which subsequently lead to cracks in the task. Most of all, this applies to country houses in which there is no heating. Therefore, pay maximum attention to the plastering of a brick house.

From all that has been said, it must be concluded that a brick building will last a long time, but it needs careful maintenance, monitoring, and just like that, such houses are built for a long time.

We use a gas silicate block for the construction of a country house

The gas silicate block is suitable for those residents who want to know the answer to the question of what to build a house in the country for cheap. We would like to note that the gas silicate block is a building material of large dimensions, it is about 8 times larger than a brick, has a low density, about 2 times lower than a brick. The technology for building a house from blocks and bricks is approximately the same. In general, a gas silicate block is a huge brick, only with better properties. Why is a gas silicate block better than a brick?

• First, it is large, so the house is being built much faster.
• Second, the block is easier to process. It is easy to cut it in half, drill and carry out other actions with it. Therefore, in such a house it is much easier to lay communications. This is very handy when you are building a building that people will live in all year round. Therefore, the wiring will need to be laid inside the wall, and not outside, as happens in many summer cottages.
• Third, when gas silicate blocks are made, an unusual, porous technology is used. There are small particles of air inside the block. This greatly reduces the likelihood that the house will freeze, and increases thermal conductivity. It turns out that gas silicate blocks retain heat much better. If you want to build something huge, then purchase gas silicate blocks with a tongue-and-groove "lock" connection. Thus, you will reduce the number of joints, and this will increase the safety of the building from drafts.

The advantages of wood in the construction of a country house

This publication will provide you with the answer to the question of what to build a house in the country with your own hands. Above we described two building materials that can be used for this case. Now it is worth talking about such material as wood.

Wood comes in three varieties:

• rounded log;
• timber (planed or profiled);
• wood glued materials.

In Russia, wood is a more common material for building a small house. This is due to the availability, good stocks and excellent performance properties of wood. In addition, wood is a fairly cheap material. More expensive, you can offer - glued laminated timber. It is more resistant to moisture and almost does not shrink, which is why it costs many times more.

If you list the best properties of wood, then you get the following:

1. Wood has good thermal insulation
2. Wood is well breathable and absorbs excess moisture,
3. Wood can "breathe".
4. Natural wood has a pleasant aroma that you will inhale for a very long time.
5. Wood has low resistance to fungus, mold and rot.

Frame-panel houses at their summer cottage

The frame-panel house is the latest technology. The main material for building your country house will be a sandwich panel. These panels are mounted in a pre-installed frame. It is necessary to build the frame of the house from a beam of large cross-section, which can withstand a lot of weight. Then sandwich panels are attached to them, which adjust the walls of the house. Sandwich panels consist of oriented strand boards with insulation between them. A house with an area of ​​about a hundred squares of sandwich panels is built in 25-30 days.

Finally

So we told you about what to build a country house from. All these materials will help you build a reliable and comfortable building in your summer cottage. And remember that whatever you choose to build your house, we wish you a successful construction and a huge number of beautiful and bright days in your new house!

It doesn’t take much to build a garden house with your own hands, but the finished building is a real lifesaver in an open area. Even a small and simple house is enough to hide from the weather, store household equipment, and comfortably relax for children and adults.

Summer house options

A universal solution for any site - a one-story house with or without an attic. You can turn a summer house into a two-story house if equip a comfortable attic instead of an attic.

For comfortable outdoor recreation, a terrace is attached to the house - open or with a canopy. In good weather, it serves as a dining room or playground for children. It all depends on the area and configuration.

Note! The terrace is easy to decorate with decorative lighting, curly flowers.

If the garden house will be operated only in the warm season, then it is not necessary to lay a heating system in it. On cold evenings and nights enough heater. And this will require wiring.

Whatever version of the garden house you choose, before construction you need to draw up its project. It will help to calculate the load on the foundation, the amount of materials needed.

What to build a garden house from

You can build a garden house with your own hands from bricks, timber, concrete blocks. Each option has advantages and disadvantages.

Lightweight with a thickness of 150 mm – at first glance economical and easy construction option. Lumber lays down easily, looks beautiful, suitable for any type of fine finish. However, such a house does not retain heat well in spring and autumn, which entails considerable costs for the heating system and electricity.

Summer houses made of foam blocks can withstand heavy loads even with a wall thickness of about 30 cm keep warm in the off-season. The special block laying technology minimizes cold bridges and prevents condensation in the premises. However, specialists must build according to a carefully designed project.

Brick houses are no less reliable than block houses, but they require at least external insulation. With a thickness of external walls of 1-1.5 bricks, this can be facade plaster, a “ventilated facade” system or a combination of expanded polystyrene with facing bricks. The design is warm, strong, durable, but not cheap.

Worthy of attention deserves the technology of frame construction. It allows you to build a light but durable garden house with the lowest financial and labor costs. Moreover, its design is such that repairs and additional insulation will not require much effort.

Do-it-yourself frame garden house

The frame technology for building a summer house is simple, it implies multiple base options and wall cladding. But how to build a small garden house with your own hands, if there is no experience? You can't do without step-by-step instructions for work and knowledge of some secrets.

Shallow-depth withstands a large load. Suitable for device on heaving, but not on peat, sapropel, clay soils. The width of the base is 10 cm more than the thickness of the walls, the height is about 50 cm. Usually, such a foundation lies above the groundwater, therefore, in the spring, it goes up with them and then goes down.

Note! When constructing a strip foundation, it is possible to equip a basement under the summer house, for example, for storing garden tools.

The device of a shallow strip foundation is performed according to the scheme.

1. Mark out the site using pegs and a cord stretched between them, which marks the boundary of the future pit.
2. Taking into account the markup, they dig trenches under the foundation.
3. A sand and gravel cushion (15 + 15 cm) is laid at the bottom of the trench. It is spilled with water in order to better compact it.
4. The walls of the pit are covered with a layer of waterproofing material, for example, roofing material.
5. From boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, formwork is mounted for pouring concrete. It should protrude 30 cm above ground level.
6. Fill trenches with concrete.
7. Cover the base with foil and periodically moisturize so that the concrete does not crack.

With potentially large loads, the foundation is additionally reinforced. The process is quite laborious, so it is worth correlating the scale of the house under construction with the cost of laying the foundation.

Shallow block base

For a small and light garden house, a shallow columnar base of individual concrete blocks is sufficient. fit elements measuring 20x20x40 cm.

Holes are dug under the blocks with a depth of about 50 cm. Layers are laid at the bottom:

• waterproofing;
• sand - 15 cm;
• crushed stone - 15 cm.

On top of such a "pillow" concrete blocks are laid in two rows. For fixing use cement brand M-150. The result is poles that protrude about 20 cm above ground level.

It is important! The second row of blocks is laid across the first.

Ground screws foundation

Geo-screws are similar to screw piles, but shorter. They are used for light and small buildings. Categorically not suitable for work on floating and loose soils. The lower trim of the frame house is mounted on the heads of the geoscrews.

Advantages of technology:

• no special equipment is needed for work;
• stones and even medium cobblestones in the ground are not obstacles for ground screws;
• no preparatory work is needed on the site;
• raising the frame can be done immediately after screwing in the last ground screw.

Geo-screws are screwed into the ground strictly vertical. To do this, with the help of a hand drill, first, pits are made with a depth of 35-50 cm. Geo-screws are inserted into them, which are twisted by hand. It is enough to insert a crowbar into the head and use it as a lever. On dense soils for these purposes is suitable a piece of metal pipe with handles welded to it. The design is put on the head and also serves as a lever.

Some craftsmen buy multipliers in stores, connect them to an electric drill using a metal pipe, and thereby increase the torque of the device. The finished design, fixed on the head, allows reduce the time for screwing geoscrews. Work starts from the corners. Vertical alignment of ground screws is performed after they are buried in the ground by about 1/3.

Wooden frame assembly

The assembly of the wooden frame begins with the bottom strapping. For this use board with a section of 5x15 cm or timber - 15x15 cm. The selected lumber is laid on the foundation along the waterproofing layer (roofing material). In corner joints, wooden strapping elements are connected by cutting "half a tree". On the foundation, the strapping is fixed with anchor bolts. Logs are laid across for the future floor, maintaining a distance between them of 50 cm.

Raise the frame, starting with the installation of the bars in the corners. Intermediate racks are fixed in increments of no more than 200 cm. For this, a “half-tree” cut and reinforced steel corners are used. To give the structure rigidity, in the corners set temporary supports - braces. Provide for door and window openings.

After that, similarly to the lower one, the upper trim of the frame is assembled, the cross beams of the floor are fixed and the truss system is mounted.

Note! Part of the roof can be assembled in advance, and then lifted up. So, when constructing a hip roof, it is convenient to first assemble the ridge run and the central rafters on the ground, and then fix the diagonal rafters at the top.

Wall and roof cladding

After assembling the frame, proceed for wall and roof cladding. For the walls of an unheated small house, OSB is most often used - oriented strand boards.

For external cladding, OSB-3 weatherproof boards are chosen.

They are attached to the racks with wood screws, without screwing them in until the end by about 1-2 mm. This is necessary so that the plates have the opportunity expand with changes in temperature and humidity. In this case, the joints of the plates should fall on the frame rack. Subsequently, these seams are puttied. In a similar way, they sheathe a house from OSB from the inside with their own hands. Siding, facade plaster will serve as a finishing facing material.

Used as roofing material tiles, corrugated board. The second option is preferable for a garden house, as the material is lightweight and low cost. For fastening corrugated board use self-tapping screws for metal. The most important thing in the work is to correctly and evenly install the first sheet.

It is important! If you want to insulate the building, then to protect the heat-insulating material and wood, you will need a hydro- and vapor barrier - a polyethylene film and a vapor barrier membrane.

When building a small garden house, it is important to chase not beauty, but for reliability, convenience and performance. What is the use of a beautiful building if it is cold even in late spring? However, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is important to strictly observe the construction technology.