Raspberry is not the easiest berry shrub to care for: it requires constant care. At the same time, autumn events are also very important. It is on the correctness of their implementation that it depends on how the shrub will overwinter and how full the next year's harvest will be. Autumn chores begin immediately after harvest.
Raspberry care from early autumn
In the list of necessary measures, some equally apply to both ordinary and remontant raspberries, while others vary significantly. The timing also differs significantly: when ordinary varieties are already preparing for winter, remontant raspberries are still bearing fruit.
Immediately after harvesting, raspberries should be fed and trimmed. Actually, it's not autumn yet, but usually the end of August.
Feeding and watering
Raspberries consume a lot of nutrients. When planting, the site is well fertilized, but regular top dressings are made throughout the life of the plantation. The amount of fertilizer depends on the fertility of the soil, but you can’t do without them. At the end of summer, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and potassium and phosphorus are necessary for the full ripening of shoots and their preparation for wintering.
Immediately after picking berries, raspberries need to be fed. Enough 1 tbsp. Dissolve a spoonful of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and use it for 1 m 2 of raspberries. Instead, you can scatter a handful of wood ash and dig it shallowly into the soil with a hoe, then water it. And at the very end of September, make pre-winter top dressing.
For raspberries, not only humus, but also semi-rotted manure can be used. You can also use compost. For 1 m 2, a bucket of organic matter is required. It is scattered between the bushes and shallowly dig aisles.
A little manure can be left unsealed: it will play the role of mulch, and by spring it will completely rot.
Bird droppings is a more concentrated fertilizer, it is required several times less. Litter is brought only in the form of a solution: an infusion is prepared in a ratio of about 1:10 with water and allowed to ferment for 2–3 days. From organic fertilizers, raspberries and peat are well suited.
Litter is an excellent fertilizer, but it contains a lot of nitrogen, so you can’t overdo it in the fall.
Mineral fertilizers are not abused, but once every 3 years, they can be applied instead of organic matter. An approximate calculation is 50–60 g of superphosphate and 30–40 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2. They are buried in shallow grooves along the periphery of the bushes, and then watered well. At the same time, 3–5 g of manganese and zinc sulfates will be useful.
In addition to the water required for fertilization, other autumn irrigations are carried out only in very dry weather. Otherwise, the shoots will continue to grow instead of becoming stiff. With the complete absence of rain in autumn, every two weeks it is worth pouring 1-2 buckets of water per 1 m 2.
With pruning ordinary raspberries, everything is simple. Since it bears fruit on second-year shoots, they can be cut at ground level immediately after picking the berries so that nutrients are not taken away. As for annual shoots, they are left in the right amount.
With ordinary raspberries, everything is clear: after fruiting, the old shoots are “under the knife”
The shoot-forming ability depends on the variety, but usually they try to keep 8–12 pieces in a bush. The rest are removed. First of all, it concerns the weakest, twisted and damaged. In August or September, the tops of the abandoned shoots can be slightly trimmed (by no more than 1/4): this leads to an acceleration of the ripening of the shoots and the appearance of side branches, that is, to an increase in yield.
Video: autumn work with raspberries
Pre-winter chores
When the temperature is close to zero (end of October or beginning of November), the foliage has almost flown around, the life cycle in the raspberry is suspended. At this time, they “clean up” the previous operations and perform others. Most likely, there were shoots that are green. They will not survive the winter, so they must be removed with clean pruning shears. Shortly before real frosts, winter watering is carried out, at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per 1 m 2.
Preventive treatment
In winter, raspberries should leave clean and healthy. All plant debris (fallen leaves, stem cuttings, weed residues) must be raked and burned, and then the stems should be sprayed with fungicides. If there was nothing wrong with raspberries, Bordeaux liquid is enough. During this period, a 3% solution is used, abundantly irrigating all the bushes with it.
In autumn, in raspberries, you can use strong, 3%, or even more, solutions of Bordeaux mixture
If numerous pests were present in the raspberry, the treatment against them should be repeated now. You can use any approved insecticides, such as Aktar or Allegro.
Raspberry shelter for the winter
Most varieties of raspberries are frost-resistant, and they require serious shelter for the winter only in harsh climatic regions, especially in the case of snowless winters. The best cover is snow, so it is important to create conditions so that it does not blow out of the plantation, but rather covers the bushes.
Each gardener decides for himself how easier it is technically to bend the shoots to the ground. It is important not to break them at the same time: at low temperatures they are especially fragile. The bent shoots are tied together, or better, they are tied to small pegs driven into the ground.
It is imperative to bend the shoots in late autumn, and cover them only in snowless and cold regions
If the snow can be blown by the winds, it is worth protecting the raspberries with shields. Anything that holds back gusts of wind is fine. If snow is known to fall late and is scarce, it is best to cover the bundled shoot bundles with non-woven material. Instead, you can use coniferous spruce branches. It is important to carry out the shelter on time: its construction too early is fraught with dampening of the bushes, and later - freezing. It is also necessary to remove the shelter in time in the spring: no later than the beginning or middle of April.
Features of caring for repair raspberries
In the case of remontant varieties, there are significant differences in autumn activities, especially for pruning: after all, such raspberries bear fruit on the shoots of both the second and the current year. Depending on the variety and preferences of the owner, it is possible to leave the shoots of this year and take two crops or remove them, when all the forces of the raspberry are directed to fruiting on annual shoots.
Since the shrub is still, as a rule, with berries in autumn, abundant watering continues almost until the end of the season or until heavy rains begin. Top dressing is carried out after autumn pruning, according to the same standards as for ordinary raspberries. The same applies to spraying raspberries from diseases: if in winter it leaves with shoots, then shortly before shelter, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid.
With pruning options are possible. If remontant raspberries are grown to harvest only from annual shoots, then all shoots are cut out a week and a half before a stable negative air temperature is established. When they want to get two crops, then one-year-old shoots are left, cutting out only the sick, broken and obviously superfluous. If they have leaves left by the onset of frost, they should be cut off.
Most often, only small stumps are left from remontant raspberries in the fall.
Remontant raspberries need shelter for the winter more often than usual: it is less winter-hardy. With a complete cutting of the above-ground part, an empty bed is mulched for the winter with a thick layer of peat, sawdust or humus, and in cold regions, spunbond cover is also added. If annual shoots are left, they are treated in the same way as in the case of ordinary varieties.
Video: repair raspberries in autumn
Proper preparation of raspberries for winter is the key to its successful wintering and abundant harvests. All autumn activities are simple, but they must be strictly followed.
For garden plots, raspberries are considered one of the most popular berry crops. It is easy to grow and produces a healthy, stable and extremely tasty crop. First of all, this perennial shrub is grown for fragrant berries. In addition to the natural use recommended by experts, they are successfully used to make jam, jam or syrup. At the same time, all organs of this culture are rightly considered a storehouse of vitamins. Roots and leaves, along with berries, also contain a huge amount of nutrients. They are successfully used in folk medicine.
Most summer residents believe that raspberries are the least demanding crop in the garden. This statement can only partly be called fair.
Only high-quality care and pruning of raspberries in August will allow you to count on a good harvest.
It must be done annually. If the site owners do not work hard in the raspberries, they will not see ripe and juicy berries. In addition, the more bushes are running on the garden and berry plot, the smaller the long-awaited fruits.
Thus, the question of whether it is possible to trim raspberries in August should not be on the agenda of the summer resident at all. At the end of the summer period, the shrub needs especially careful care. It is necessary to remove unnecessary shoots, rejuvenate and thoroughly thin out the bushes, as well as feed and update the raspberries. It is important to understand that raspberries are characterized by certain features of the general biological cycle.
This feature lies in the fact that the root system of this plant is perennial, but the above-ground stem is characterized by a two-year cycle. After planting the root processes or roots, annual shoots will appear. However, they will not yet give ready-made fruits to the gardener's table and can only be considered a harvest next year. In this cycle, the shrub grows, accelerates and lays future reproductive buds. There is an increase in replacement shoots and root suckers.
As for the two-year-old shoots that bear fruit, raspberry pruning must necessarily occur after harvesting in the month of August. It must be remembered that after the second calendar year, fruitful shoots are much more susceptible to disease. They lose their former ability and strength. It should be noted that although the traditional shrub is characterized by the appearance of raspberry berries on the shoots of the second annual cycle, there are specific remontant varieties that can bear fruit in the first year.
However, for both types of shrubs, pruning of raspberries in August 2016 and the planned renewal of fruitful shoots were necessary. Any summer resident can easily distinguish old shoots from young ones. A two-year-old shoot that bears fruit must be cut immediately after harvesting the long-awaited and useful harvest. This process should not be postponed until late autumn or spring. After all, the spreading crown should not obscure young developing shoots.
It is important to understand that neglected rows are poorly ventilated and this contributes to the appearance of pests and diseases.
Raspberry care in August
Timely care for raspberries in August is pruning, normalization and top dressing. Amateur gardeners will never have problems in the process of such work if they acquire the necessary tools in advance.
In order for raspberry pruning in August-September to be easy, you must have:
- standard pruner;
- garden sharp file, equipped with small teeth.
These tools will provide clean and smooth cuts. In some cases, it is advisable to use an air pruner or lopper. With its help, it becomes possible to remove diseased areas and masonry of harmful insects in hard-to-reach places of thorny bushes.
Shrub pruning process
In the event that the raspberry was previously tied up, it is recommended to untie its branches from the wire or the stakes provided. Using a pruner, you need to cut a two-year-old shoot. This should be done as close to the ground as possible.
It is necessary to ensure that there are no stumps left. After all, it is there that the infection penetrates, as well as harmful insects. The pruning of young raspberries in August should not be ignored, which will speed up the maturation of the updated shoots as much as possible. To do this, the top of the fruitful shoots of the current calendar year must be carefully cut off. Also, to improve branching, it can be slightly pinched.
Thus, a thorough pruning of raspberries at the end of summer is the most important stage in the systematic care of a useful shrub. You should not ignore this process and do not transfer it to other periods. Careful removal of fruiting shoots to the very root, as well as the subsequent care of young shoots, will be the key to a future abundant harvest of berries in the garden.
Raspberry normalization
Such care for raspberries after pruning in August involves the implementation of the so-called normalization of raspberries.. This term refers to the complex removal of still young green shoots of this year. Cut out late-appearing, twisted and weak shoots. This is done with such an approximate calculation that the next year there are no more than 10 optimally matured shoots per linear meter. For the planned winter bending down, up to 8 shoots remain in one bush.
An important point is uprooting damaged bushes
In addition, for the successful cultivation of raspberries, you need to know about one more important nuance. According to experts, raspberry bushes are susceptible to 60 different viral, fungal and bacterial diseases. The most dangerous are the raspberry beetle and spotting. In other words, at the end of summer or autumn, along with the process of pruning the shrub and subsequent normalization, it is recommended to remove from the raspberries and burn all the bushes damaged by diseases.
Raspberry dressing
Also, many summer residents are concerned about the question: how to feed raspberries in August after pruning in order to prevent and improve the harvest of berries? In the first 3-4 years of the life of raspberry bushes, it is recommended to use humus, manure or compost. Consumption rates range from 5 to 10 kg per square meter of raspberries. In subsequent years, it is better to reduce the amount of organic fertilizers and use them no more than once every 3 years.
I divide the autumn period of raspberry care into two stages: early and late. The first part begins after the last harvest and includes the end of August and the first weeks of September, when it is still quite warm. The culture may still show some slight growth activity at this time.
The second period of care begins after the leaves fall, and lasts until frost. During the first frosts, a sharp freezing of the soil is possible. In the bushes, active processes stop, and the plant seeks to quickly prepare for wintering.
I watch my raspberries all year round, but in the fall I try to give him maximum attention. My to-do list includes pruning, fertilizing, maintenance, watering, and sheltering.
Autumn raspberry care - 5 basic rules
In autumn, after harvesting, the bushes are exhausted and need to be fed. Therefore, I introduce potassium sulfate at the rate of: a teaspoon per square meter of plantings.
If the raspberries were planted this year, and you have fertilized the soil well, you can refuse autumn feeding. It is important not to overfeed the plant, because you can get a backlash: instead of preparing for rest, it will begin to actively develop.
To get a beautiful strong bush, I definitely spend autumn pruning: I remove thin and weak branches, leaving only strong young shoots, at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. I shorten the remaining shoots by 10-20 cm. Old branches that will no longer bear fruit - I remove to the very root.
Already at the end of August, I reduce the frequency of watering. This is necessary to prepare the shoots for sleep, because on nutritious soil with an abundance of moisture, their growth will not stop, and they will die at the first frost. But the soil should not be allowed to dry out either. If there is no abundance of rain at the end of summer and autumn, I irrigate the raspberries at the rate of 10 liters of water per square meter, twice a month.
If there are no fallen leaves left on the shrubs by frost, I recommend removing them manually. If this is not done, they will become damp and begin to rot. This procedure must be performed very carefully so as not to hurt the kidneys. I put on a soft glove and run my hand from bottom to top along the branch. You can not do this in the opposite direction, as you can break off sleeping kidneys.
Raspberry is a fairly hardy shrub, but it does not like low temperatures. To protect my plantings from frost, I begin to prepare for winter from mid-autumn. In harsh climatic zones, branches should not be left at a height of more than half a meter.
I bend the stems to the ground and secure with wire so that they disappear completely under the snow crust. If your winter is frosty, but snowless, you can use non-woven material for shelter.
In autumn, I carefully clean the territory of the raspberries, collect dry branches, leaves, rotten fruits and burn them at the stake. When I am fully confident in the health of the shrubs, I will send the leaves to the compost heap and use them later as fertilizer.
After preventive cleaning, I carefully treat the shrubs with a 5% solution of Bordeaux liquid. It is important to choose the right day for spraying: the weather should be dry and calm. It is desirable that after the procedure there was no rain for at least one day.
Raspberry is an undemanding shrub, but for abundant fruiting it is necessary to monitor the development of plants and take care of them. By following my recommendations, you will receive a rich harvest of delicious and high-quality berries every year.
Petrova Inna Vasilievna
Winter is on the way, but you still have time to pay attention to the plants that pampered with a generous harvest in the summer. At this time, they should provide favorable conditions for wintering. Let's look at what stages of preparation our beloved raspberries should go through.
Favorable conditions for wintering should be provided
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Preparation of raspberries for winter is carried out twice - at the end of August and in the middle of autumn. In the first case, it is carried out after harvesting and cessation of shrub growth. It is possible that at the end of summer the wood can still be active in this regard, but its main task is to ripen quickly in order to survive the frost period.
The second period starts when the first leaf falls and continues until the arrival of real frosts. At this time, raspberries try to quickly complete all active processes.
What do raspberries need in autumn?
At the initial stage of preparation for wintering, fertilize bushes that have been depleted after active fruiting. Next, proceed to pruning the shoots that have borne fruit, thin out the young shoots after harvesting.
Thin out young shoots after harvest Special attention will have to be paid to preventive treatments of bushes from the invasion of pests and diseases.
As for watering, it should be moderate. A protective cover must also be provided.
Raspberries are considered a hardy crop that can survive the vagaries of the weather. Sometimes she copes with the influence of negative factors without human participation.
Let's look at the 5 basic grooming rules in more detail.
Autumn feeding raspberries
What kind of fertilizer to apply depends on many factors. First of all, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If he is poor, you can feed the plant with potassium sulfate (1 tsp. 1 sq. M.).
First of all, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil If during the planting of raspberries you enriched the soil with humus and humus, this means that in the future it will have enough potash top dressing.
Raspberries are a hardy crop that prefers nutritious soil. If there is a lack of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the soil, in any case this will not affect its fruiting.
Read also:
How to use "Azofoska" at their summer cottage
An overabundance of fertilizers can lead to the oppression of raspberries - it will become more susceptible to diseases.
If we talk about the introduction of trace elements, then they are required. Such substances will help strengthen the immunity of the culture, allow it to withstand low temperatures. As a top dressing, zinc sulfate (3 g) and manganese sulfate (5 g) are suitable. The dosage is indicated for 1 sq. m. soil.
Raspberry pruning
Many summer residents are wary of pruning shrubs. Do not be afraid of such a procedure. It is not necessary to protect the fruiting shoot, cut it to the level of the soil. All green shoots must be removed, because they will not have time to ripen, which means they will freeze out in winter.
It is not necessary to protect the fruiting shoot, cut it to the level of the soil Summer residents with experience recommend leaving the strongest and most powerful growths. You need to shorten them by a quarter. In addition, it is desirable to leave the same number of shoots as the fruit-bearing ones were cut out and another 20% to this amount.
What gives this trick? The thing is that in this way you can provide the supply that is necessary for the further growth of the bush and increase productivity.
Important! Raspberry shoots that bear fruit will have to be cut to the very root. You can even slightly dig it out and remove it, and sprinkle the place with fresh earth.
Autumn watering raspberries
With the advent of autumn, the number of watering raspberries will have to be reduced. Over time, they should be stopped altogether. This is necessary so that the shoots become woody and do not freeze. If this is not done, they will continue to grow on nutrient soil until December.
It is necessary to refuse watering only if the rainy season begins or the soil freezes. If the weather is dry and the mark on the thermometer does not fall below zero, it is quite acceptable to water the plant (10 liters of water per 1 sq. M. Plot).
It is worth noting that a lot depends on the season. If there was little precipitation in August and September, you can pour 10 liters of water per square meter. It is unacceptable for an earthen lump under a bush to experience a lack of moisture.
As soon as the first frosts come, it is advisable to treat the raspberries with 2% Bordeaux mixture. If snow falls, it must be shoveled to the bushes.
Raspberry care in late autumn
In early November, when the air temperature does not rise above zero, and the period of night frosts has come, you can start winter activities. You should not rush to resort to them, because winter does not come unexpectedly - everything happens in several stages.
To remove unripe shoots, use garden tools in the form of a pruner Raspberries are unpretentious and can practically grow in any garden, even an abandoned one. But picking berries will be very inconvenient, as the plantings will be overgrown with nettles and clogged with last year's dried stems. If you are not lazy and carry out regular care for raspberries in the garden, the harvest will be much higher and the berries will be larger.
So, how to care for raspberries so that every summer you can enjoy this tasty and sweet berry. Let's answer a few questions.
Where to plant raspberries?
For good growth and development of raspberries, loamy or sandy loamy soil is needed. The earth should be moderately moist, have a subsoil that passes moisture well. If you plant a raspberry bush on clay or light soil, the plant may die. To prevent this from happening, such soils are improved with organic fertilizers. Raspberries do not tolerate wet places. Long standing water and the close location of groundwater can lead to the death of the roots and the death of the bush. Elevated places are also not suitable. Here, raspberries will freeze in winter, and in summer the soil will quickly dry out.
There should be no rhizomes of perennial grasses on the land plot.
How to plant raspberries?
Now let's talk about how to plant raspberries. It is better to do this in the fall. The first step is to prepare the site: weed, remove weeds, destroy pests. This is especially true for the larvae of May beetles. The earth is generously fertilized 1.5 months before the planned planting. For 1 sq.m they contribute:
- 10-30 kg of manure;
- 60-80 g of superphosphate;
- 40-50 g of potassium sulfate.
If the soil is peaty, sand is added, if it is sandy or heavy clay, the amount of manure is increased. If raspberries are planted in the spring, then fertilizers are mixed with the top layer of earth from the pit a few weeks before planting. Then the roots are covered with this mixture. If the planting of raspberries in the spring is not planned and the seedlings need to be planted urgently, then they take a different composition of fertilizers for 1 pit:
- 10 kg of compost or humus;
- 50 g of potassium sulfate;
- 400 g wood ash;
- 100 g of granulated superphosphate.
Fertilizers are mixed with the top layer of soil from the planting hole and raspberry roots are immediately covered.
Note! Manure is replaced with humus, fresh manure cannot be put on the roots, there will be burns!
The place for raspberries should be well lit, protect the plant from strong winds. There should not be fruit trees next to the bush. You should not plant raspberries next to potatoes, strawberries, tomatoes. It will be good if you plant raspberries in place of gooseberries or currants.
Planting raspberries step by step:
- First, they dig a hole with a depth and a diameter of 40-50 cm. 2 raspberry seedlings are planted in one hole.
- Half of the pit is filled with organic and mineral fertilizers mixed with the soil of the upper layer.
- During planting, the roots of the seedling should be spread out, carefully covered with loosened earth, filling the entire space.
- Compact the soil well.
- After that, the raspberries are watered abundantly. One plant should take at least a bucket of water.
- Trim planted bushes.
If you plan to plant several bushes, then it is more expedient to dig a trench.
Between the pits there should be an interval of 70 cm, between rows - about 1.5 meters. 
When to plant raspberries?
Autumn is the most favorable period to plant raspberries. It is better to carry out this work in late September or early October. Before the first frost, the seedlings will take root well. You can plant raspberries in the spring. Just wait until the soil thaws. When planting in the autumn, mandatory hilling is necessary. This will help protect the lower kidneys from damage. Newly planted raspberry bushes grow for 15-20 years. However, they give fruits up to 13 years. After this period, the rhizomes of the bushes begin to age, do not produce a crop. At the first signs of aging, the bushes are uprooted.
How to care for raspberries?
Watering
Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant. For its productive development, it is necessary to provide full-fledged watering. During the season, raspberries are watered 7 times, 2-3 buckets per linear meter of the row:
- at the end of May, when replacement shoots appear;
- twice in June if there is no rain;
- twice in July;
- the last time in early August (also in the absence of rain);
- if autumn is dry, then at the end of October (this time 1 bucket each).
Raspberries should not be watered later than August 10, excess moisture will not allow the wood of the stems to form well and will lead to purple spot disease. Two methods of irrigation are most effective: sprinkling and furrow irrigation. Irrigation is the use of a hose. For irrigation into the furrows, water is let through the furrows along the rows of plantings at a distance of 40 cm. The furrows are dug 10-12 cm deep. After moistening the soil, the furrows fall asleep and the earth is loosened.
top dressing
Nutrients are equally important for the plant. Every year, add about six kilograms of compost or humus to the ground per square meter. It is better to do this before wintering, using it as mulch. And also apply mineral fertilizers in the spring:
- 20 grams of ammonium nitrate;
- 15 grams of potassium salt;
- 30 grams of superphosphate.
Dilute in a bucket of water and feed the raspberries after watering.
loosening
Be sure to loosen the soil for the "breathing" of the roots. In the spring, you need to loosen the earth early, while there are no root processes. If they are damaged, it will take time to recover, and new shoots will not have time to mature by winter. Between the rows, the soil should be loosened by 10-12 cm. In the rows themselves, 6-8 cm will be enough. Do not forget to loosen the soil in the summer, destroy the weeds growing nearby. If a hard crust has formed on the ground, the soil should be processed immediately. 
spring pruning
In the first year in early spring, the shoots are shortened by 15-20 cm to well-developed buds. This is necessary for better development of side branches and increased yield. In addition, after this procedure, the raspberry stalks will be more stable and will not “fall over” under the weight of the berries.
Garter
To plant raspberries were even, you need to stretch the wire. Usually this is done in two rows. For tying raspberries take galvanized wire. Its thickness must be at least 5 mm. One and a half meter columns are installed along the rows. A wire is stretched between them at a height of one meter. Raspberry shoots are tied to it. A year later, the design is modified. Add two rows of wire. The lower one is at a height of 30 cm, the upper one is up to 1.5 meters.
Fruiting
New, not yet lignified, raspberry shoots produce berries in the second year after planting. The first year is a period of intensive growth and the emergence of fruit buds on the shoots. The second year is fruiting. After harvesting, the shoots dry up. They are cut with secateurs and burned.
If the raspberry stem begins to dry out already when the berries ripen, it must be removed, creating favorable conditions for the formation of new shoots.
Raspberries can be harvested as early as June-July. A distinctive feature is that the berries do not ripen simultaneously on the same bush. This process lasts for a month, so the berries are removed depending on ripening. The harvest must be harvested as the raspberries turn red, excluding overripe, because then the berries quickly choke, lose juice and vitamins.
When to prune raspberries
In order for the raspberry bush to be beautiful, neat and bear fruit well, it is pruned every spring. On one bush there should be no more than seven developed shoots. Excess, old and weak new shoots are cut out, and the main ones are tied with twine to the wire. New seedlings with well-developed buds and roots are shortened to 40 cm.
If fungal diseases appear on raspberries, dry buds, bushes are cut and burned.
If you follow all the rules on how to plant raspberries, then the harvest will be a year from planting. But most of the berries can be harvested in the third year. After 10-13 years, raspberry bushes are replaced, adhering to all stages of planting. 
Autumn pruning raspberries
Dense thickets of raspberries do not give a good harvest. What can not be said about neatly trimmed single bushes. Being in dense greenery, the berries ripen much worse. Raspberries grow quickly and without the formation of bushes from even plantings in 1-2 years there will be thickets. Therefore, it is important to know when to prune raspberries and how to do it. The raspberry shoot has a development cycle of two years. In the first year, buds are laid, on which berries ripen in the second year. After that, the stem dries up.
By autumn, many such fruiting shoots are formed. Therefore, autumn pruning of raspberries is carried out in the fall, the obsolete stems are completely removed with pruners and burned. Of course, you can postpone this work until spring, but this is only as a last resort, since timely pruning of raspberries before winter allows the bush not to waste nutrients on old, already unnecessary stems, but to give them to young replacement shoots.
Important! Shoots of biennial stems are subject to pruning, provided that the raspberry variety is ordinary, and not remontant.
Remontant raspberries should be treated differently. You will learn this from the article. about caring for raspberry remontant varieties. When pruning raspberries, adhere to the following rules:
- Remove the fertilized two-year-old shoots.
- Completely, to zero, cut out damaged, dried, broken and weak shoots of this year.
- In the case of heavily overgrown bushes, they should be thinned out. Leave about seven healthy and strong shoots.
- To avoid infection with dangerous pests, cut branches are burned immediately after pruning.
- Having completed the pruning procedure, the shrubs are dug in, weeds are destroyed.
- It will be good to process the remaining stems with iron sulfate.
- Do not forget to feed raspberries with fertilizers.
Shoots are cut flush with the ground, new replacement shoots will appear necessarily.
Opinions differ on the timing of pruning raspberries. Some gardeners prefer to do this immediately after harvest, others - before frost. It is better not to wait until late autumn, but immediately start pruning, protecting the plant from pests and diseases.
When pruning raspberries, there should be harmony between new and old branches. This is done so that the raspberry does not overgrow much. With free space between the bushes, raspberries will be well ventilated and receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. From this, the berries turn red faster and have a good taste. When a new shoot appears between the bushes, it is dug up and transplanted to a new place. If there is no need for it, it is immediately removed. 
Preparing raspberries for winter
The best time to prepare raspberries for winter is the end of September-beginning of October. In any case, this must be done before the thermometer drops to zero degrees. The preparation of raspberries for winter includes digging and loosening the soil. Also, bushes should be bent down if there is a risk of freezing raspberries in winter.
Between rows, the soil is dug up to 15 cm between rows. In the rows, you can dig not so deep, about 10 cm. It is important to do this carefully and carefully so as not to cut the skeletal roots. This task can be dealt with using a pitchfork. When mulching the soil with fallen leaves, peat, straw manure, rotted straw, you can achieve a good harvest, and in spring it will be easier to work the soil.
Mulch is applied in a layer of 6-8 centimeters. When weeds germinate, they are immediately removed. You can mulch the ground in any area, especially arid ones, to retain additional moisture.
Before wintering raspberries, all leaves are carefully removed from the bush.
Carefully! You can damage your kidneys!
Old leaves are removed from the bottom up along the shoot. If you leave the leaves, they will become damp, rot and "burn" the kidneys, so time should be allocated for their removal. The cleaned bush is bent to the ground, fixed with wire. It is very important to lower the raspberries as low as possible so that they do not freeze out, remaining under the snow cover.
This is not all preparation for wintering. Raspberries need to be monitored throughout the winter. If necessary, add snow to keep the bush closed. At the same time, snow crust is removed for better air circulation. Snow-covered raspberry bushes are protected from frost and hares, the latter love to raid summer cottages to feast on.
You can additionally protect the plants by pouring a layer of straw 20-25 cm thick. To avoid mice attacks, it is better to take straw from a compost heap prepared in the fall. With proper care for raspberries in winter, they will survive the cold frosty months well, retaining most of the shoots. Frozen shoots are removed in the spring to avoid the development of diseases. You need to have time to do this as early as possible, while the raspberries are still at rest.
Raspberry propagation
Raspberry reproduces vegetatively using root shoots. If the bush is strong, it is divided into parts. For planting, take the strongest shoots with a shoot 1 cm thick and good roots.
Offspring, young shoots, appear at the raspberry bush in early spring. Their number may vary. It all depends on the care of the shrub, its variety, the area where it grows, the application of organic fertilizers, soil moisture. Young offspring develop well by autumn. For planting, they are dug up at the end of summer.
If there is no need for young shoots, they should be disposed of. In some cases, raspberries propagate by green shoots. But it is appropriate to do this only when the variety is of particular value.
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