Often, pepper seedlings planted in February-March very quickly grow in height and elongate. This happens not only among beginner gardeners, but also among more experienced ones. It is obvious that the plants are experiencing a lack of light. There are other reasons that must be eliminated immediately, otherwise you should not count on a good harvest.

Causes of elongated seedlings

• Lack of lighting. Containers with seedlings are placed in a well-lit place, without direct sunlight. Be sure to turn the containers towards the light source as needed. This way they will develop evenly. If the seeds are sown early (January, early February), supplement the seedlings with fluorescent or phytolamps.
• High temperature of seedlings, dry air. For pepper seeds to germinate, conditions of +23…+28°C are required. With the appearance of the first “loops”, the temperature is temporarily lowered to +15...+17°C during the day. At night up to +10…13°С. Further development occurs at +20…25°С. Lack of humidity in the room will cause the sprouts to weaken and become thinner. You can eliminate dry air using a humidifier or regularly ventilating the room. Also, containers with water are placed next to the planting boxes.

Attention! Temperature changes inhibit excessive growth.

• Crop density. Planting too densely, even under the right conditions, will result in thin, long stems. Plants will be forced to fight for light and nutrients.

• Too nutritious soil, application of nitrogen fertilizers. For seedlings, specially designed mixtures are used. No additional fertilizing is applied, especially nitrogen, which promotes intensive growth.
• Excessive soil moisture. The first watering is 2-3 days after emergence. The water is warm, settled +25…30°С. High humidity will not only lead to stretching of seedlings, but also to fungal diseases.

Control measures and prevention

Seeds are sown in containers no more often than at a distance of 5-6 cm. More dense plantings must be thinned out. Watering should not be excessive, but the soil should not be allowed to become dry. With the appearance of the first true leaf, the peppers dive.

Advice! Late picking after the appearance of several pairs of leaves will lead to a poorly developed root system.

To do this, choose individual cups 8-10 cm deep. It is advisable that the containers be dark. After picking, the plants are returned to their old place. Under new conditions, seedlings will be sick longer.

To increase the amount of light, you can install reflective surfaces on the sides of the window. To do this, use foil, foil-lined insulation or plain white fabric. The rays, reflected from the material, illuminate the seedlings.

In the phase of 3-4 leaves, to stimulate uniform development, peppers are sprayed with Atlet growth regulator. Dilute it according to the instructions: 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Processing is carried out 1 time.

Picked seedlings with 2-3 pairs of true leaves are fertilized with special biostimulants for growth. Microbiological fertilizers increase the content of beneficial microflora in the soil. They are also useful for the development of the root system. The second feeding is carried out after the appearance of 5-6 leaves. Usually this is a mixture of urea (5 g) and superphosphate (30 g) per 10 liters of water. Young plants will respond well to the addition of ash or watering with nettle infusion.

Formation of pepper bushes and care in a greenhouse

When planting in the ground, the plants are not buried, since the pepper is no longer able to grow new roots from the stem. The procedure is performed using the transfer method. Before planting, the seedlings are watered and, if desired, sprayed with Epin. Maintain the required distance between bushes. The bed is mulched.

During the growth process it is necessary to tie up the plants. To prevent the peppers from stretching excessively in the greenhouse, they are formed with the appearance of the 10th leaf. Leave a couple of the strongest side shoots, pinching out the rest. If you ignore these measures, then excessive shading will lead to shedding of flowers. The circular garter will protect the branches after fruit formation. Pinching the tops a month before the end of the growing season will stop excess growth and direct all the nutrition to increase your yield.

The necessary conditions for planting and maintaining pepper seedlings will completely eliminate the need to use drugs and growth regulators. Extreme measures are permissible only in critical, advanced situations.

What to do if pepper seedlings stretch out: video

At the end of winter, many summer residents, missing the greenery and hoping for a bountiful summer harvest, begin growing seedlings. Good seeds, carefully prepared soil, fertilizing, but the result is long, overgrown shoots. The seedlings are stretching out. What to do?

From the school botany course, everyone remembers perfectly well what a plant needs for normal development: light,water, warmth and nutrient availability. Let's figure out which point we are not observing to ensure a comfortable life for the seedlings.

Light

A sufficient amount of light is the main condition for plant life. In mid-February, when daylight is still quite short, and the sun is a rare guest on our windowsill, many summer residents have already sown seeds and friendly shoots are appearing. Moreover, sometimes they are so dense that the plants do not give each other the opportunity to spread their leaves and make full use of the meager February light.

So, mistake number 1 - early sowing of seeds. If it is not possible to provide additional light to the seedlings, sow from mid-March, when there is enough street light.

Mistake #2 - no additional lighting. If the seedlings contain plants that must be sown early (some varieties of peppers, tomatoes, flower seeds), then equipping window sills or shelving with special phytolamps (luminescent, LED) is a prerequisite.

Mistake #3 - dense sowing and late picking. Plant leaves should not touch each other so as not to reduce the feeding area. It is necessary to plant grown seedlings on time.

Water

How often do we ourselves destroy our plants with excessive care! Frequent watering is not what seedlings need. Wet soil contains little air, plants suffer and weaken. But in these conditions fungi and bacteria thrive. Hence the black leg, bacterial rot and a carpet of mold on the surface of the substrate.

Mistake #4 - excessive watering. Water the seedlings only after the surface of the soil in the container has dried. Use settled water at room temperature, add water softeners (commercially available) to hard water.

Warm

Excessive heat harms plants and pampers them. In order for the seedlings to be strong and stocky, it is necessary to provide them with comfortable daytime (25 - 28oC) and cool night temperatures (17 - 20oC). To prevent root rot, you need to lay insulation (foam plastic, a layer of cardboard) between the container and the cold window sill.

Mistake #5 - lack of contrast between day and night temperatures. It should be cool at night, then the stem will not stretch.

Nutrition

Initially, the substrate for sowing seedlings already contains nutrients, and there are enough of them in the cotyledons. You should not start fertilizing immediately after the seeds germinate, otherwise you can easily overfeed them, which will inevitably cause overgrowth. If an excessive dose of fertilizer is applied, the soil becomes completely unsuitable for cultivation.

Mistake #6 - overfeeding seedlings. Fertilizers should be applied a week or two after picking (not germination!). In this case, it is advisable to combine it with stimulants (Epin, Zircon, Immunocytophyte) and use it as foliar feeding. If there is a clear lack of light, you can use chelated forms of iron (Ferovit), spraying the plants once a week.

Most often, it turns out that when analyzing the conditions for growing seedlings, almost the entire list of errors is revealed in everyone. It is important to understand that all these shortcomings can be eliminated and, by taking simple measures, you can get strong and healthy planting material. And this in many ways is a guarantee of a good harvest and highly decorative flower beds.

KakProsto.ru

How to prevent cucumber seedlings from stretching

To prevent cucumber seedlings from stretching

Cucumber box

I wanted to talk about cucumber seedlings - how they can be grown so that they don’t stretch out. Some write that they buy seedlings because they can’t get it at home, or even worse, they cut it into cubes. Only they are not at home, but traveling to the vast expanses of their wonderful homeland.

Remove the entire fertile layer. And what will be left after them when this clearing is overgrown, and will it be overgrown at all? Most likely, it will fill with water, and a swamp will form in this place.

But they go out for such cubes both in cars and on tractors. I consider this savagery, barbarism towards nature.

I take the soil for seedlings from the garden where cucumbers did not grow, and add half of the humus or compost. I must sift all this through an iron sieve with 0.5 cm mesh, mix well and then heat it on the stove in an aluminum basin, stirring continuously.

I warm it to such a state that my palm can no longer tolerate it if I put it on top. Heating it to 40° is a completely useless exercise: in the summer our earth gets so hot that you can’t step on it with your bare feet, and a little rain splashes and the grass starts to grow like a brush. In well-warmed soil, all insects and grass seeds die, and all diseases are destroyed.

I sow cucumber seeds 40 days before planting in the ground. I have a wide aluminum pan with a height of 20 cm for this. I always buy hybrids, since they do not have barren flowers.

I take the salad one cucumber variety Zozulya, and for pickling - the Rodnichok variety.

Since the seeds are purchased, I make sure to let them soak in a cloth. I don’t add enough soil to the top of my fingertips, I crush it a little and lay out the seeds every 3 cm in a circle in two rows, I carefully pour the soil on top with a spoon so as not to move the seeds, and I water it from the top with a spoon, usually with rainwater (I collect it in advance during the rains) , and then - into the bag and to the battery.

As soon as the loops appear, I immediately open them and place them near the window, waiting for the cotyledons to open. All! I don't keep her in the house anymore. I have neither a greenhouse nor a greenhouse.

I take the seedlings out into the yard, put them in a cardboard box in a sunny place, on a cloudy day I throw film on top, and the sunny box is open all day. The walls of the box protect well from the wind, and the box is always warm.

At night I close the box and put double film on top.

The box stands on a board so that the bottom does not get wet in case of rain, and during the day I move it after the sun, and the seedlings are illuminated until the evening. The leaves grow large, fat, the stem is short, as thick as a pencil. Before planting in the ground, 2-3 leaves grow.

I put a box with pepper seedlings in the box there, I never pick them up, I sow them rarely, every 2.5 or 3 centimeters. The seeds are my own, so they all sprout, I never soak them.

I sow peppers earlier, at the same time as tomatoes, in early February.

Two weeks before planting in the ground, I take all the seedlings out into the garden. In a sunny place I place 2-3 arcs, throw on a film, cover the ground with cardboard and expose all the seedlings. At night I put on another double film or blanket, during the day I open it slightly on the leeward side, and on a warm sunny day I open it completely. During these two weeks, the seedlings will be unrecognizable - they will fluff up, get stronger and grow.

Planting cucumbers in grooves

Since my garden is on a southern slope, and the soil is sandy, I plant everything in grooves (two shovels wide) across the slope from east to west. I don’t dig the ground, I add ash and humus to the grooves and mix it with a hoe.

I water the cucumber seedlings with water so that it becomes muddy, and carefully pull them out by the stem. Not a single root will come off from such softened earth, even if they intertwine somewhere.

I never water the soil before planting in ditches, because loose soil makes it easier to place all the roots without damaging anything.

After planting the entire row, I take a drink and cover it with 5-liter water bottles, I try to press them 5 centimeters into the soil so that the wind does not blow them over, and this is good protection from mole crickets.

In cold weather I unscrew the caps, and in warm weather I remove the bottles completely. After two weeks it becomes so warm that I open the cucumbers completely, put stakes at the ends of the grooves and pull the ropes every 30-40 centimeters. As they grow, I tie up the stems.

I water the cucumbers, and all the vegetables, contrary to all the instructions, only at noon, when the leaves begin to fall, and I don’t just water them, but I bathe them: cucumbers - up to the flowers, but peppers - completely. And so on until the fall.

About 5 minutes after watering, all the leaves rise and until the end of the day, no matter how hot the sun is, they stand like soldiers. Our summers are very hot and dry.

I water it daily. I feed with herb infusion instead of fertilizer. For those who live in apartments, seedlings can also be grown on balconies, it is better if it is on the east or south side.

For those who like to use cubes for seedlings, in the fall, sow winter crops on your plot - rye or wheat, and then cut them into cubes.

The photo shows cucumber varieties 1. Rodnichok. 2. Zozulya. The varieties are very unpretentious and productive. Read about other varieties of cucumbers here.

vsaduidoma.com

As the seedlings grow, the leaves begin to come into contact with the leaves of neighboring plants. At this moment, the competition for light and living space begins. This is a natural reaction of every seedling plant trying to go through all the phases of growth and eventually produce seeds. To complete its life cycle, the plant is ready to reach for light, on which photosynthesis directly depends. In this case, the stem almost does not thicken, the lower old leaves turn yellow prematurely and are dropped, and so on.

Such a depressing picture can often be observed among many vegetable growers who love to grow seedlings on their own. If there is a way out? How to keep seedlings from stretching. There is always a way out. It is necessary to create optimal growing conditions, taking into account the requirements of various crops for these conditions. Let's look at some features for specific crops.

Tomatoes. Tomato is a heat-loving and light-loving plant. Despite the high heat requirements, tomatoes have great biological plasticity. They are resistant to sudden fluctuations and prolonged temperature drops. To prevent the seedlings from stretching out, when seedlings appear, the temperature is reduced for 4–5 days during the day to 12–15°, at night to 8–10°. It is not dangerous to reduce the night temperature during this period to 4 - 5o degrees. The rest of the time, maintain the temperature during the day at 18 - 25o, at night 8 - 10o.

This resistance of tomatoes to extreme temperature conditions must certainly be used to keep the seedlings from stretching. In general, tomatoes tend to stretch out at all phases of their growth. As soon as the illumination decreases, problems will not take long to appear.

Fortunately, there is a unique solution to the problem of stretching tomatoes proposed by Jacob Mittlider - regular pruning of the leaves. The essence of this agricultural technique is to introduce tomato seedlings into a state of shock by trimming the leaves. As soon as the leaves of tomato seedlings begin to come into contact with the leaves of neighboring plants, you need to “barbarously trim” one or even two lower leaves. In this case, the plant experiences shock and stops growing in height for about a week.

However, with this stop in growth, the stem thickens, which is what is actually required for growing powerful, stocky seedlings. Of course, the operation should be carried out when at least one leaf has formed at the growth point.

Pruning can be done again, which will only improve the result, and seedlings with thick, strong stems will surprise everyone. Tested by personal experience. Vegetable growers, inspired by success, begin pruning even from cotyledon leaves and are not mistaken, since the result is always positive.

Unfortunately, pruning leaves is not applicable to other crops, with the exception of onions. Therefore, you shouldn’t even experiment.

All types of cabbage. The most crucial moment when growing cabbage seedlings occurs at the stage of seedling growth before picking. Before you know it, the seedlings will stretch to such a height in a matter of hours that they will become completely unsuitable for picking. Two reasons usually lead to this result. Lack of light and elevated temperature.

During the period of growing seedlings, the following temperature is maintained: before emergence of seedlings 16 - 20o, from the moment the first seedlings appear, it is reduced to 6 - 8o for 5 - 7 days, and then gradually increased to 14 - 17o on sunny days and to 12 - 15o on cloudy days, at night 8 - 10 o. During this period, maximum light is needed.

Provide bright lighting during this growth period. Use lamps with high efficiency that emit little heat, otherwise temperature control will become impossible. After the formation of two or three leaves, cabbage seedlings have lower requirements for light intensity.

Cucumbers. Cucumbers, unlike cabbage, cannot tolerate low temperatures. Sharp temperature fluctuations are also detrimental to cucumber seedlings. Therefore, it is not recommended to regulate the growth of cucumbers by changing the temperature regime. Therefore, only intense lighting can save the situation.

http://www.rusagroweb.ru/mittlaider/vyrashchivanie...y-rassada-ne-vytyagivalas.html

Tomato and pepper seedlings are stretching out, what should I do in the sun or place them in the dark?

Irina Sam…..o

if it stretches out, it means it’s dark for them and they need to make the environment lighter

Motya Motya

into the darkness?? ?
Is it possible that the steel would be even thinner?
The athlete sprays them and in diffuse bright light

Hedgehog

in the sun

Alexander Vysotsky

A fluorescent lamp should be turned on above the seedlings at a distance of 10 cm.

Nikolay Tsuprunov

If it is thick, unpack it, expose it to the sun, if necessary, if there is not enough sun, add additional light. Limit watering.

Olga

Everything is correct She doesn’t have enough light She needs to plant on time Where are you in a hurry? Sow again after March 15th

Lydia

If there is somewhere, place it on the window. If there is not enough sun, turn on the lamp.

Kostenko Sergey

stretching of seedlings indicates two things - excess heat - from excess infrared radiation, plant cells are stretched. measure the air temperature - optimum 16-18 oC (up to 20). the second factor is the lack of light - you almost always need to add additional lighting up to 12 hours of daylight, preferably during the daytime

Olga Oleynik (Maletina)

Change the timing of seed sowing. Under good conditions - light and warmth, the seedlings will be strong.

Just Pooh

Let the bullshit stretch out - at the end of March, cut the tomatoes in half and top. part in a glass of water - after a few days it gives roots, plant it - there will be short, strong seedlings.

Olga Nikolenko

Spray with Atlet and add it to the water. The drug slows down the growth of the above-ground parts of plants, causes shortening and thickening of the stem, increases the width of the leaves, most of the substances enter the roots, causing their increased growth.

Alla Terekhova

lower the temperature and increase the light

Sonrisa

It stretches out from the elevated temperature. One day, tomatoes were growing on my windowsill at work, and there was air blowing through the window. The seating arrangement was stocky, even blue, and spread out. If small seedlings are kept at a low temperature, they will not grow. It’s just difficult to do this in an apartment.

Anna K

It’s dark for them, you need to add more light, and lower the temperature a little - tomatoes love this. just not a draft

Pepper seedlings begin to bloom. What to do?

Alexander

Don’t be afraid, everything will be fine, and don’t listen to the fact that you’ll say goodbye to part of the harvest. I have planted seedlings of peppers and tomatoes many times, even cucumbers, which it was a pity to throw away if they were not sold not only flowering, but even with fruit. You just need to create comfortable conditions for the seedlings in the exhaust zone; they don’t even get sick if they are planted with a clod of earth. You can, of course, delete it, but this is absolutely not necessary, trust the practice. And the result of such a landing? Here he is -

__

And you don’t have to go to the dacha - soon you’ll be harvesting the seedlings;)

Zaire ~Elena~

Nipple.

massage massage

cut to hell

Mister X

run bees for pollination - there will be good pepper honey

Lyudmila Aliseiko

into a cold room...

Nikolay Lisyansky

Place on the windowsill, do not water the soil, spray with leaves once a week. Create temperature +15 degrees

Alexey Kurilov

Enjoy the early harvest We even planted peppers

Tina Ezdakova

I don’t know myself - there’s been a snowstorm in the morning. Think. That’s all. What they advise you and you yourself know, it’s hard to come up with something new. We are waiting for spring.

Svetlana Medvedeva

Pick them off, they will fall off anyway.

Tatyana Korshunova

The very first buds in the fork (crown) of the pepper are always removed. I think it’s okay that the pepper has bloomed. Sometimes I plant them blooming myself. After careful transfer to a permanent place, the plants immediately begin to grow, they don’t even drop their flowers... You'll have peppers early...

Kharkov resident.

“Reel it in” - don’t rush to sow next year... no matter how itchy your hands...!))

dissenter

Say goodbye to 50% of the harvest. The result of early sowing.

Maria Ulyanovskaya

Pick off the buds.

Me, me and I

Don't worry, the first flower should always be removed. Pin the seedlings. I usually remove flowers until there are 6 of them at the same time. Then the harvest will be friendly and abundant.

Pinching scheme

Elena Gubaidullina

I sow later, fortunately this problem does not arise, my aunt sows early and plants already flowering bushes, the harvest is always good. There is nothing scary about this. my pepper this year decided its own destiny, sown on February 23, it sprouted on March 10-15, it is growing by leaps and bounds now

Irina Belova

It’s okay, provided the seedlings are in a separate glass. I bring out flowering seedlings, sometimes with ovaries on individual plants, both peppers and tomatoes. There are no losses.

The Scarlet Flower

Great, there will be an early harvest. Pepper is self-pollinating, it doesn’t need bees, it sets itself, just in case you can walk over the flowers with a brush. Last year I also planted early in January and before planting my seedlings I already had peppers the size of chicken eggs. I didn't break anything. The pepper was huge, some peppercorns were more than 500 grams, since the varieties were planted with large fruits. The main thing is to feed him so that he gets enough nutrients. And if it stretches out, then treat it with Athlete.

One of the most common problems with growing pepper seedlings is their stretching. Knowing why this happens, as well as what to do to prevent the seedlings from stretching, will allow you to grow strong and healthy peppers.

Reasons for stretching seedlings

Stretching and thinning of seedlings can be caused by the following reasons:

1. Lack of sunlight. It is recommended to sow pepper seeds for seedlings in February-March, when the daylight hours are not yet long enough. The emerging seedlings, suffering from a lack of light, stretch out while still in the cotyledon leaf stage. For normal development, pepper seedlings need light for 18 hours. Installing a reflective screen and additional lighting helps solve this problem.

Pepper seedlings may stretch due to lack of light

2. Excessive watering. Overmoistening of the soil in combination with a lack of light can speed up the growth of seedlings.

Advice! If seedlings are grown on northern or north-eastern windows, as well as on heavily shaded windows, experienced gardeners recommend round-the-clock supplementary lighting for 3 days in a row from the moment the seedlings emerge, using LED or fluorescent lamps.

3. Increased air temperature in the room where the seedlings are grown. To stimulate seed germination, the optimal temperature is +22-25°C. After the emergence of seedlings, experienced vegetable growers know from experience that the risk of seedlings being pulled out is reduced if the daytime temperature is set at +18-20°C, and the night temperature at +16°C. For this purpose, seedlings can be taken out into the corridor at night or ventilation can be arranged.

4. Thickened sowing is one of the main reasons causing seedlings to stretch out. Densely growing peppers simply do not have enough light and nutrients in the soil. Maintaining a distance when sowing seeds - for peppers this is 5-7 cm between plants - will prevent it from being pulled out. If it was not possible to avoid the thickening of the crops, then it is recommended to thin out the seedlings.

Seeds should not be planted too often, otherwise the seedlings will stretch

5. Growing seedlings on soils poor in nutrients. Fertilizing with complex fertilizers, bio-cocktail, mullein or bird droppings allows you to grow strong seedlings.

How to prevent and how to deal with pulling seedlings

There are several reliable ways to prevent or even stop the pulling of pepper seedlings.

1. The correct choice of soil mixture for sowing seeds. Soil containing a large amount of nitrogen is not suitable for growing peppers. Sowing pepper seeds in universal soil, specially designed for growing vegetable crops, is the first step to prevent seedlings from stretching.

2. Picking into separate cups allows you to stop the process of pulling pepper seedlings. The optimal time for this procedure occurs from 20 to 25 days from the moment the pepper sprouts, and it is usually indicated on the bag of seeds. The number of true leaves on the seedlings will help you navigate the timing of picking. To pick peppers, the appearance of 1-2 true leaves is enough.

It is better to plant seedlings in separate cups

3. If there is a lack of lighting, treating seedlings with ratardants allows you to stop the growth of seedlings, allowing them to grow stronger, as well as increase their resistance to blackleg and other fungal diseases. These include the drug “Athlete”, it is used by adding it to water for irrigation, as well as when spraying seedlings.

Treatment of elongated seedlings with the Atlet growth regulator should be carried out at least 3 times, with an interval of 7 days, since a one-time treatment stops the growth of the plant for a short period of time. After which growth actively resumes, which will only intensify its further stretching. The first treatment of seedlings should be carried out at the cotyledon leaf stage.

If there is not enough light, you can add additional lighting

4. Compliance with the requirements necessary when carrying out basic agricultural techniques for peppers. Even if the pulling of peppers occurs at some stage of seedling development, the situation can be corrected by promptly taking appropriate measures:

• reduction in room temperature;
• reducing the number of waterings;
• increase in daylight hours;
• carrying out fertilizing.

Feeding can help cope with the stretching of seedlings

What to do if the seedlings have stretched out - video

Unfortunately, it happens that, having planted pepper seedlings, you no longer worry about them, because you did everything right. You watch it, admire the leaves, the well-hatched stem. Everything seems to be going according to plan, so the harvest promises to be bountiful.

And suddenly, after a short period of time, everything changes literally before our eyes: the upper branches become thin and begin to reach for the sun too quickly. There is a real danger of being left without peppers, but only with a dense bed of beautiful bushes. It turns out that a mistake was made that urgently needs to be corrected!

Why?

To deal with a problem, you need to know the causes of its occurrence. Only then can something be done to prevent it from arising. So, pepper seedlings can stretch out due to the following factors:

1. Lack of sunlight. This is the main reason for plants to stretch. To prevent this from happening, equip your green corner with additional daylight.
2. Excess water. Pepper does not like to be flooded, especially if it takes a very long time to dry out due to low light. Twice a week is the ideal frequency for this plant.
3. Dense sowing. Naturally, no one forbids sowing thickly. The question is, when does thinning your bushes occur? If you did it too late, then you only have yourself to blame.
4. Untimely picking. During the formation of the root system, peppers need more space to give the roots more freedom. If they continue to be kept in a “prison,” then they are simply forced to direct all their strength in another direction. In this case, up towards the sun.
5. Inappropriate temperature. If your temperature is too high all the time, then don’t expect anything else from your plants. Try to take it out to a cool place at least for a while. It is thanks to the contrast that the stems do not stretch out.

This list will be especially useful for those who have only recently sowed seeds. Or, thanks to him, you will have time to change the conditions that do not meet the requirements for this type of culture.

Methods of resuscitation

It is possible to save the situation, the main thing is to get down to business right away. Here are a few sequential steps from real gardening experts:

• carefully separate the plant from the total mass;
• place it in a tall glass with a small amount of earth sprinkled at the bottom;
• gradually add soil to it, gradually compacting it slightly;
• leave about a centimeter from the edge for water;
• Place all cups with stems in a polystyrene box - it retains temperature and retains moisture;
• pour water until the liquid reaches the very bottom.

If you've done all these things and nothing has changed, think about feeding your emaciated crop. Perhaps she lacks nutritious food, and that is why she is “sad.” Start fertilizing immediately after the first two leaves appear. Alternate feeding that stimulates growth with one that strengthens the root system and takes care of the beneficial microflora of the plant.