It is not easy to install a balcony block on your own, but it is possible if you choose simple design options from familiar materials. Detailed instructions from professionals will help in the process, illustrating each stage of installation.

Preparing for installation: where to start

To understand how to install a balcony door with a window, it is not enough to study the video, you will need to follow the recommendations developed by experts for such cases step by step.

Masters recommend preparing the field for work. It is advisable to start by drawing up a mini-project with a description of the installation details and drawings of the balcony door. Having such a project with measurements of the opening, you can contact the company for the production of window and balcony blocks to order the product.

The best option for installation is plastic structures, since it is easier to install a plastic balcony door with your own hands than a wooden or glass one, and it serves just as well, perfectly complementing the interior design.

With a finished project and a block made to order according to the measurements of the opening, you can begin to dismantle the old structure. To do this, you will need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• hammer;
• grinder for woodworking.

Dismantling is carried out according to a strict algorithm of actions:

1. Remove old doors and windows from their hinges.
2. Frames are cut using a grinder.
3. The remains of the frame are removed using a crowbar.
4. Debris and dust are carefully removed.

An important point: in the process of dismantling the old structure, care must be taken not to damage the integrity of the opening.

Installation: the essentials for the work

Installing a balcony door on your own will save some money, but will require maximum responsibility and effort. In the process of work, tools are used:

• level;
• segment knife;
• hammer;
• drill;
• mounting foam;
• fasteners.

An important point: the fasteners must correspond to the design chosen for installation.

Instructions for installing a PVC balcony block

The prepared window block with a door (consider the installation using the PVC door as an example) is installed in the opening, temporarily fixed with wooden wedges. Using the building level, check the correct alignment of the structure in each of the planes.

The next step is to tamp the wedges with a mallet and fix the box in the opening using self-tapping screws or mounting hangers. Due to the flexible body of the profile, they can be attracted to the wall surface at any angle.

Once the box is installed and fixed, you can start gluing the waterproofing membrane on the outside of the fixing profile. Gluing the material is easy. To do this, it will be enough to remove the protective layer of paper from its surface.

When the gluing of the protective membrane is completed, you can go directly to the canopy.
about canvases, both door and window sashes. To make the installation of a pvc balcony door more convenient, the products are first freed from double-glazed windows by dismantling the glazing beads holding them.

Depending on the system, start mounting the structure from the bottom or from the top hinge. The first option is relevant in the case of using a system with a "micro-ventilation" mode. In this case, they begin to work with the lower hinges, installing the canvas, after which the door is switched to the “closed” mode, fixing the pins in the middle and upper hinges.

The final stage is the installation of fittings with testing and adjustment of the door. In addition, at the final stage, one must not forget to return the removed double-glazed windows to their original positions, fixing them with glazing beads.

The finished door after installation is brought into a closed state, the gaps between the block and the opening are filled with mounting foam, taking into account its expansion by 2/3 of the part. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the box and the wall itself are moistened with water.

Important points: what to look for

To strengthen the rigidity in the doors of the double-floor type, blind transoms are used. Using a bracket from a sheet strip, the transoms are connected.

In order for the door to retain its original presentable appearance and functionality during operation, it is important to pay special attention to the arrangement of the threshold. In the classic version of the box, the lower bars of the doors are similar to the window ones. In this case, it is necessary to cut the flooring into the inner box.

For the convenience of using the threshold with a separate box, you need to use a concrete tray.

In order for the threshold to last as long as possible, the open part of the bar at the door frame should be reinforced with an iron strip and painted. When the installation of a concrete tray is inappropriate, you can use a solid board, equipping the threshold with a minimum height. It is believed that this is 10 mm from the bottom of the door to the floor.

An important point is the size of the balcony. If it is narrow, then you need to put the door in such a way that it opens into the room. Only in this case it will be possible to avoid cluttering up the space from the outside with doors in the “open” position.

Door leaf adjustment: when and how to do it

To understand how correctly the door was installed, it is enough to use a sheet of plain paper. If you put it on the canvas frame in the ajar state, then close it tightly, it will become clear in which area the sheet passes best. It is in these areas that it will be necessary to adjust the clamp of the web. It will help to do this:

• plastic gaskets with different thicknesses;
• L-shaped hexagon 4 mm.

The reasons for loose closure can be:

1. Rubber seal with deformed areas. If there are, then the seal will need to be replaced.
2. Handle not working properly. Perhaps the mechanism does not work correctly and the handle will either need to be replaced or repaired.

To shift the corner of the balcony door to the sides, you need a hex key. With it, you can tighten the adjusting screw in the upper hinge, after removing the decorative plug. To adjust the horizontal position of the canvas, you need to turn it around the bottom loop to one side.

The lower corner of the door is adjusted by tightening the adjusting screw with a hex wrench in the area of ​​the lower hinge. To adjust the door in the horizontal direction, it is rotated around the top hinge.

If the cause is a crumpled but whole seal, you will need to slightly raise the sash, and then adjust the hinge group with a hex wrench. Adjustment of the top hinge may be needed if the seal is deformed at the top. Lower the sash by moving the key clockwise, raise - against.

Do not place too high hopes on the procedure for adjusting the loops. In some cases, these manipulations will not be enough and the solution to the problem will be the use of plastic spacers for installation between the profile and the door frame.

How to properly mount a glass balcony door: recommendations

The door leaf made of glass is more massive and fragile compared to plastic or wood, so the installation of a door with a window is carried out very carefully and preferably with assistants.

Installation begins with the preparation of the necessary fasteners. Suitable anchors with a size of at least 2 mm. The door frame is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, so holes 6 cm deep are pre-prepared in the wall surface and the frame itself. The indent from the corners must be at least 20 cm, additionally two holes are prepared in the interval of the long side of the opening.

To put the door on the glass balcony yourself and fix it at the initial stage, you will need special leveling wedges, it is better if they are plastic products for optimal sliding. Two wedges are enough for the job.

The balcony frame is mounted on the anchors, after which it is aligned with the help of wedges on the main sides, starting from the base with the transition to the sides. Wedges are driven in using a conventional hammer and screwdriver.

The door frame can be fastened only after testing for distortions. For this, the usual building level is suitable. It is enough to apply it to vertical and horizontal lines. If the canvas is held without distortions, you can proceed to fixing with self-tapping screws.

The next stage is the installation of mechanisms and accessories. Each element is delicately fastened, tested in working mode. The final step is the fastening of double-glazed windows. Using glazing beads and rubber, as well as a special soft hammer for working with glass, you can complete the installation yourself.

An important point: glass doors for a balcony or loggia, unlike plastic ones, require a particularly delicate approach to the choice of fittings, and it does not matter whether the window and balcony door are being replaced or the initial installation. This is due to the increased load on the canvas during operation.

High-quality mechanisms and fittings from trusted manufacturers will extend the life of the entire structure. Cheap handles and mechanisms can cause distortions and premature failure of the canvas.

In conclusion, we note that installation, as well as replacing a balcony door without replacing a window block on its own, is not an easy operation and in many respects their outcome depends on the choice of material for the canvas. The fasteners for balcony doors that were used in the process also play a role. It is important to adequately assess your strengths, carefully read the installation instructions, and only after that proceed to action.

In modern cities, the majority of the population lives in apartment buildings. And the layout of almost any apartment implies the presence of a balcony or loggia. This is a very convenient and multifunctional piece and is usually separated from the main living area. The device and materials from which the balcony block is made make it possible to minimize the heat exchange between the apartment and the street, as well as increase sound insulation.

The device of the balcony block

A balcony block is a balcony window and a door combined into a single structure, while the window does not open. Its main purpose is to increase the degree of isolation of living space. If the balcony itself is glazed, an additional door and window can reduce heat loss and noise levels. If the balcony space is open, the installation of a block is simply necessary to protect the house from rain, cold, debris and dust.

The balcony block is a door and a window that most often does not open

The installation of a balcony block can be carried out by specialists, any company that sells plastic windows and doors will be happy to provide their services. But if there is no desire to include additional expenses in the repair budget, you can do it on your own, when ordering a balcony block, the kit includes:

• the window itself with the frame and the door leaf with the frame;
• threshold and window sill, ebb for the outside, slopes;
• accessories.

Options for balcony blocks

There are the following design options that a balcony block can have:

1. Standard. It includes a door and a narrow fixed window - a versatile option.
2. Block with a wide balcony window. Its design is similar to the previous one, but the window is square and larger.
3. Standard unit with transom. With this design, an additional rectangular section is located above the narrow window and door.
4. Wide window and two doors. One of them can be either fixed or movable.
5. Two narrow windows located on the sides of the door.
6. The so-called "French" block. This design uses volumetric windows without frames, occupying the entire distance from floor to ceiling, or similar double doors.

When choosing a balcony block of any of the above structures, one must remember the pros and cons of each. The main thing that influences the choice is the size of the balcony or loggia, as well as the adjoining room. For example, the option with a transom involves an additional number of partitions, which means less light, so they can only be installed by selecting a large window. The installation of double doors is also justified only if the balcony is of sufficient size.

The window in the balcony block may be non-standard

If we talk about the materials from which the balcony block is made, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is in the first place in popularity. This is primarily due to its practicality and relatively low cost. PVC windows and doors do not need to be painted, they are durable and fit into almost every interior. In addition, the features of this material provide good sound and heat insulation. Windows in such structures can be made with a different number of chambers.

The other two popular materials are aluminum profile and wood. Both of them are much more expensive than PVC. In addition, the aluminum profile has a lower thermal insulation.

How to install a balcony block?

If it was decided to carry out the installation on their own, it is necessary to get an idea about all the stages of this process. Separately, it is worth mentioning how the balcony block is dismantled. If you just need to remove the old double-leaf window and door, these are usually installed in a panel house, this is not so difficult. Their device makes it easy to remove the sashes and remove the glass.

If the complete destruction of the balcony block is planned, this is completely different. In this case, there are rules for both the conduct of work and the use of this space in the future. The capital dismantling of a balcony block is always coordinated with a number of regulatory authorities, for example, the city architectural inspection, as it affects the supporting structures.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to purchase all additional building materials and tools:

• Pencil, triangle, tape measure, building level and knife, anchor bolts.
• Sealant and gun for him.
• Jigsaw, hacksaws for metal and wood.
• Hammer, rubber mallet, impact screwdriver.
• Perforator and drill.

There are several features of the implementation of measurements for the purchase of a balcony block. Many companies provide free services of professional measurers, using them you can at the same time assess the level of professionalism of the company's employees.

You can use the services of professionals when installing a balcony block

Before taking measurements, it is necessary to clean the openings to the main wall, and also level them using a level, the corners must be strictly straight. When carrying out independent measurements, it is necessary to draw a sketch indicating all dimensions plus a margin of about 1 cm for anchors. The width of the window is marked separately from the door. It is also necessary to note the desired ways of opening each part. Before ordering, it is worth clarifying what is included in the kit, it may be that some parts will need to be ordered additionally.

Then you should be puzzled by the search for an assistant, and preferably two. They are necessary both at the stage of delivering parts of the balcony block home, if the services of loaders are not used, and during the installation itself due to the large dimensions and weight of the structure. During unloading, it is worth paying increased attention to whether the kit is complete, and also in what condition the parts are. All cracks and scratches due to the fault of the manufacturer or delivery service should be detected now.

Also, according to the transportation standards for such structures, the window sashes must already be in the frame, the door in the box, and all locking mechanisms closed.

It remains to prepare the window and door for installation. To do this, do the following with the window:

• the sash is removed (it is necessary to remove the upper rod, open the locking mechanism and remove it from the lower hinge);
• the double-glazed window is removed from the fixed windows (it is enough to bend all the glazing beads to the inside and remove them);
• sealing tape is glued on the outside;
• if necessary, brackets for a mosquito net are attached;
• in the profile exactly in the center at a distance of 7 cm and 1.5 cm from the corners or partitions, holes are made for anchor bolts.

The last step is the installation of the window sill

All the same is done for the door frame. After that, the box and frame are assembled into a single block.

Important! The sides where the box and frame are connected must be without holes for bolts. The sides of the connection are glued from the outside with sealing tape and the connecting profile is fixed.

The first step is to insert the balcony block into the opening. In this case, it is necessary to make sure that it is even in relation to the plane of the wall and to the slopes. For this, a building level is useful. For the most accurate installation of the frame, it is better to place some supports of the required thickness under its vertical parts, for example, a piece of board.

Further, through the holes in the profile, made earlier by a puncher, a wall is drilled. After that, anchor bolts are attached to them. After the final fixing, the door, window sashes and double-glazed windows are returned to their places. To fix the latter, previously removed glazing beads are used. Putting them back in place is easy, just insert the corners and hammer in the middle with a rubber mallet.

The last step is the processing of cracks with mounting foam. The easiest way to do this is with a special gun. Seams and cavities are approximately two-thirds full, then the foam expands to take up the remaining space. You should not neglect such processing of seams; construction foam has excellent moisture and heat insulation properties. At the same time, it is easily destroyed under the influence of the sun, so it is important to process the already hardened foam as soon as possible, for example, cover it with paint. Complete drying occurs after approximately 24 hours, all this time it is impossible to open the sashes and doors of the balcony block.

Final design

In most cases, when installing a balcony block, the design is completed by installing window sills and ebbs.

The window sill can be ordered as a set with a window or separately. For its manufacture, materials such as plastic, MDF, wood or even natural stone are used. The choice depends only on the wishes of the customer. In the kitchen, window sills are sometimes replaced with countertops.

Steps for installing a plastic window sill:

• opening cleaning;
• laying wooden linings and the window sill itself on them;
• installation of cargo on the windowsill;
• filling all voids with mounting foam and trimming the excess after solidification;
• installation of plugs on the ends of the window sill.

Important! Exactly in the horizontal plane, the window sill should be installed only in the longitudinal direction. In the transverse, a slope of about 5 mm is required towards the room.

Low tide is rarely installed, as it serves to remove moisture and precipitation from under the window outside. As a rule, there is no such need on the balcony.

Slopes are made in three ways: plastered, closed with plastic panels or drywall. The plastic option is the easiest.

With independent work on the installation of a balcony block, you must be very careful. The duration of its service directly depends on the correct execution. The whole structure must stand evenly, be well fixed, there must be no friction between the frame and the sashes, and the latter must not close arbitrarily. All this serves as an indicator of the quality of work.

In most cases, after buying an inexpensive apartment without repair, the first step in ennobling the interior space of the purchased housing is the installation of modern energy-saving doors and windows throughout the apartment, including on the balcony. This article will discuss how you can install a balcony block, following a certain sequence of work and some nuances.

What is a balcony block? In simple terms, this is a window and a door, connected into one and installed in the opening of a load-bearing wall (they share a room and a balcony).

Materials and features of balcony blocks

The most suitable material from which they are made is a metal-plastic profile (it is also called PVC). As for installation options, as a rule, there can be three of them:

- the door is on the left, and the window is on the right;

- vice versa;

- or the door in the middle, and on the right and left one window each.

Depending on the application of fittings, windows are:

- deaf;

- rotary;

- swivel and tilt at the same time.

The door can be either only pivoting, or pivoting and folding at the same time (the second option is used in the case of using blind windows).

When purchasing a complete balcony block, you need to make sure that all the components included in its kit are available. These include:

- windowsill;

- threshold;

And, of course, accessories.

Installation of a balcony block: preparation

1. It’s worth starting from the preparation of the place necessary for dismantling and installation work. To do this, they remove everything that can be taken out, and the rest is covered with a film to protect it from dust and construction debris.

Read also: Bamboo wallpaper: properties, pros and cons, choice of glue, gluing

2. Then remove the moving parts of windows and doors.

3. In order to remove the wooden door frame installed in the opening, it must be cut at the bottom with a hacksaw or use a grinder with a circle on wood, and then pry the cut part of the structure up with a crowbar.

4. All slopes are knocked down with a puncher, after which the remains of the door frame and the window frame are dismantled in turn.

5. In conclusion, it is necessary to clean the surface of the opening from everything unnecessary (it can be an old sealant or hardened pieces of mounting foam, etc.).

In the case of dismantling the old PVC balcony block, first remove the doors and double-glazed windows from the windows, and then remove all the fasteners.

Upon completion of all preparatory work, the opening must be completely freed from finishing.

How to install a balcony block?

The first thing to start with work related to the installation of a balcony block is, of course, the assembly of its components into one. To do this, the frame of the window and doors is placed on a flat surface and connected to each other by means of a metal strip and screws specially designed for this. To do this, pre-prepare the holes into which the screws will be screwed. The distance between them should be approximately 30 cm. It is important that the upper parts of the window and door frames are in line, and their side parts are close to each other. Thus form a balcony block in one piece.

Advice: before performing connecting work, it is necessary to free the window and door frames from all removable parts.

Immediately before installation, mounting plates are attached to the top and sides of the balcony block using metal screws. During the execution of this stage of work, it is necessary to observe the following nuances:

Read also: Kitchen renovation: types, features, main stages

- the distance from the corners of the assembled structure to the nearest mounting plate should be 15 cm;

- intermediate plates should be at a distance of 50 to 70 cm from each other or from plates located near the corners of the balcony block structure;

- screws for fixing the plates should be fixed strictly in the middle of the width of the PVC profile.

On the opposite side of the apartment, a special sealing tape is glued around the entire perimeter of the balcony block (it is abbreviated as PSUL). The main purpose of this building material is to create a reliable protective coating that prevents the penetration of moisture and ultraviolet rays into the composition of the mounting foam used to seal the empty space between the balcony block and the wall.

At this stage, you can install the brackets for the mosquito net. To do this, it is applied to the turning part of the window from the outside, marks are made and set aside, after which the brackets are twisted in the designated places.

Installation work

The whole point of a proper installation is to do the following:

1) all horizontal and vertical parts of the balcony block are installed strictly according to the level, using linings and small wedges of various sizes, placing them between the frame of the block and the wall;

2) bend each pre-installed plate closer to the wall surface, while observing all measures aimed at maintaining the safety of the verified position of the balcony block in space;

3) holes with a depth of approximately 80 mm are drilled through the holes of each plate in the wall;

4) then, using a hammer, dowels are hammered into each hole and screws are screwed into them, thus fixing the balcony block to the wall;

5) after that, an ebb is installed, cutting off its excess part with metal scissors and fixing it to the included profile with screws;

Competent installation of a balcony block is a good sound and heat insulation, an aesthetic appearance of the room. Installation is preceded by a lot of work on the preparation of the opening and the PVC structure. Each stage has its own difficulties.

Non-standard solutions - a transom above the door, an opening window sash near the door

Preparation of a wall opening for the installation of a balcony block begins with the dismantling of the old structure.

Note! Before removing the old block, it is necessary to free the window sill, remove the cornice with curtains. Furniture located near the window should be moved or covered with a film to protect it from dust.

The dismantling of a wooden window and door block is performed as follows:

• Remove from the hinges the opening doors, the balcony door. Glasses are removed from the deaf sashes, having previously removed the glazing beads.
• Remove the window sill. Concrete is broken with a hammer, cutting the reinforcing elements with a grinder. A wooden, aluminum or plastic window sill is simply removed from the opening.
• Remove tides.
• Take out the old frames from the opening. To do this, they can be sawn, starting from the bottom, or hooked with a construction cutter.
• Dismantle the slopes, remove the insulation.

Dismantling of the old wooden structure

If you are dismantling old PVC windows and doors, then first remove all fasteners, and then remove the frames.

Try to do the work as carefully as possible to maintain the integrity of the opening.

Preparing windows and doors

According to the current GOST, which regulates the adjoining of PVC windows to openings, the latter must have a flat surface. Chips, potholes, other irregularities, the depth of which exceeds 10 mm, are not allowed.

If the walls crumble, they are strengthened with binders. Oily surfaces are degreased. Irregularities are eliminated with the help of plaster, and gaps in brick, block masonry - with the help of foam insulation of increased rigidity or all the same plaster.

You can clean the opening of dust, debris with a stiff brush or vacuum cleaner. If installation work is carried out in winter, then snow, frost, ice are also removed from the working surface.

The walls of the opening must be aligned horizontally, vertically. Their deviation from the axes is permissible, but not more than 4 mm per 1 m. Accurate measurements can be made with a building level, a laser plane builder. You can also control the equality of the diagonals in the opening.

The process of installing the frame in a clean and leveled opening

Connection of door and window frame

To connect the window and door parts, you must first remove the movable sashes from the hinges.

For this you should:

• knock out the stem of the upper hinge;
• open the locking mechanism by turning the handle;
• remove the sash from the bottom hinge.

Metal rod under the decorative hinge cap

Then prepare the connecting bar, self-tapping screws and an electric drill with a set of drills.

1. Place the connecting strip between the door and window frame.
2. Place the entire structure “upside down” on a flat surface, making sure that there are no distortions in it.
3. From the side of the door, drill tunnels in the end part of the frame in increments of 30-40 cm.
4. Insert fasteners, tighten them.
5. Close the visible parts of the fasteners with decorative caps.

Profile for connecting a balcony door and a window

Fixing the sealing tape

If you want to make fasteners from the side of the window, you will have to remove the blind part of the window. To do this, pry off the glazing beads with a spatula, remove them, and then expose the glass.

Note! Choose self-tapping screws with a length of 80-90 mm, so that when tightened to the end, they do not violate the tightness of the window in the balcony block.

Scheme of connection of individual parts of the block

The choice of fasteners for the balcony block

Before installing the balcony block, you need to make markings for the fasteners with which it will be held. For these purposes, use anchor plates or spacer frame dowels. What is the difference, what are the advantages of each option?

Anchor metal plates are fixed with one end to the outer end part of the window and door frame, and with the other - to the wall of the opening.

Plate bent to the wall

Some of them (“with ears”) are first inserted into special grooves on the frame and only then screwed with self-tapping screws. Others (without “ears”) are fixed immediately, simply by attaching to the box.

Fastening anchor plates “with ears”

The main advantage of anchor plates is that for their installation it is not necessary to remove double-glazed windows from the deaf parts of the window. This reduces the risk of damage to the PVC structure at times, which is especially important for inexperienced craftsmen.

But anchor plates can not always be used. They are unreliable fasteners for overall (more than 4m2) and structures with actively operated doors. They are also not suitable for installing a balcony door. However, many experienced craftsmen skillfully combine plates with expansion dowels, using the former at the top of the window and door block, and the latter at the bottom and on the sides.

Mounting a balcony block on anchor dowels is the most reliable option. These elements are a set of a bushing and a durable metal bolt. When the bolt is screwed into the sleeve, it expands, due to which the frame structure is reliably attracted to the walls of the opening.

However, the use of dowels involves the preliminary removal of even blind sashes, which can lead to a violation of the integrity of the double-glazed windows. If you are not a professional, then you cannot do without an assistant, or even two.

Removing the bead with a spatula

Note! To install the box with dowels, you will need a powerful puncher.

Balcony block installation

After you have chosen the method of fixing the PVC structure and made the appropriate markings, you can install the block in the opening. The complexity of this stage lies in setting the frame box vertically and horizontally, its secure fixation, and the assembly seam.

Alignment and fixation of the window-door unit in the opening

The installation of the window-door unit is not performed with direct support on the walls of the opening. To form a mounting gap and transfer the weight of the PVC structure to the base, it is necessary to use support pads (wedges). They can be plastic or wood. The latter are easy to do with your own hands, but they require mandatory impregnation with antiseptics. The optimal length of the block is 110-120 mm.

Wooden mounting wedges

Two plastic mounting wedges form a rectangle, which allows you to securely install the balcony block in the existing opening. If necessary, the elements are shifted relative to each other. Due to the existing protrusions, they will not disperse. This allows you to orient the frame box in space.

Placement of mounting wedges under the frame

Note! Mounting blocks must be placed under each vertical element of the balcony block, including under the impost.

According to the current GOST, after fixing the balcony block with temporary wedges, you can proceed to fasten it with anchor plates or dowels.

Fixing the block with plates

Mounting the frame box on the plates is carried out as follows:

1. Mark the mounting points of the plates on the frame. They should recede from its inner corners by 150-180 mm. The installation step is 600-700 mm. The distance from the impost to the nearest fastener should not exceed 180 mm.
2. Mark the places for fixing the plates on the walls of the opening.
3. With the help of a chisel, recesses are made in the wall for fasteners. This “recession” will later help to hide the plates under the fine finish of the slopes.
4. Fix the fasteners on the frame so that they look towards the room. First, the plates are screwed in the lower left and right corners, then on the sides of the box, and lastly, in its upper part.
5. Install the box in the opening, slightly bend the plates and fasten them to the wall with dowels.

Screwing the plate to the PVC frame

Note! In the process of work, check the evenness of the position of the balcony block. In the process of tightening the fasteners, it can be tangibly skewed.

Dowels are used as follows:

• Make the markup of the balcony block. It is similar to the layout of anchor plates.
• At the marked points, the frames are drilled through from the ends.
• Install the PVC structure in the opening, align it horizontally and vertically, mark the walls along the holes already made.
• Fix the box of the balcony block on the dowels.

Insertion depth of the fastener

Scheme of fasteners

Note! After fastening the window-door unit to the wall, the side mounting wedges are usually removed. But the lower ones must be left as a support for the entire structure.

The difference between fastenings with dowels and plates

Making a mounting seam

After installing the balcony block in the existing opening, you can proceed to the installation joints. The current GOST 30971-2012 assumes the presence of three main layers in them:

• central - responsible for the heat and sound insulation of the window and balcony door;
• internal - preventing the penetration of steam to the insulation;
• external - removing steam from the central layer, preventing the penetration of moisture into it from the street.

The general requirements for the assembly seam are the high quality of its insulation, the use of environmentally friendly and safe materials. At the same time, all of them must withstand the application temperature in the range of -10..+40°C.

Central layer of the assembly seam:

• Material - polyurethane foam or well-known polyurethane foam. An alternative is polyethylene foam tapes, thermolen, which are not so convenient to use and are used quite rarely.
• Laying - continuous filling of all seams, joints. The presence of delaminations and cracks is acceptable, but within 6 mm. The width of the foam layer is from 15 to 60 mm, the depth is not less than the thickness of the PVC box.
• Mounting foam should not be used at air temperatures below -10°C.

Foaming of the assembly seam

Use a special gun for applying polyurethane foam

Note! During the drying of the mounting foam (at least 24 hours), the previously hung window sashes and the balcony door must be closed.

The outer layer of the assembly seam:

• Material - sealing tape, sealants.
• The water resistance limit is at least 300 Pa.
• Must be resistant to temperatures in the range from +70°C to -30°C and below, if it is a frost-resistant joint.

Additionally, the outer layer of the mounting seam is protected with special linings, flashings.

The inner layer is an elastic sealant that is laid continuously. It should have greater resistance to vapor permeation than the central layer of the seam.

Window sill installation rules

After installing the main part of the balcony block, you can proceed with the installation of additional elements. One of them is the window sill. It protects the mounting seam from external influences, increases the rate of thermal insulation of the room.

Preparing the window sill and opening

You can install a plastic window sill or tile the protrusion with ceramic tiles. However, the first option looks more organic in a duet with a PVC balcony block.

Installing a plastic window sill does not take much time, but it does require some preparatory work. You need:

• Remove all debris left after window and door installation.
• Dust the work surface.
• Level it with cement mortar, if necessary.
• Make a drawing of the future window sill, taking into account the size of the opening and the angle of dawn of the slopes.
• Prepare your window sill. It must be cut according to the drawing. To do this, you can use a jigsaw, a hacksaw for wood and other cutting tools.

The main values ​​​​for cutting the window sill

After carrying out the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the installation work.

Mounting the window sill in the opening

The window sill should fit snugly against the frame and be aligned along the main axes. To do this, he needs points of support. Usually their function is performed by plastic or dry wooden blocks (blocks) treated with an antiseptic.

The supports are laid with a step of 50-60 cm in two rows: the first - along the frame, the second - along the inner wall.

Plastic support for window sill

As soon as the first row of supports is installed, it is necessary to take a piece of the window sill and attach it to the frame. It should be aligned by analogy with a full-fledged product.

Install the second row of supports and again use the building level. The angle between the window sill and the frame can be strictly 90 ° or be 2-3 ° more (to remove moisture).

The final stage of work is the foaming of the space between the wall of the opening and the window sill. The first layer of foam is applied along the frame, the PVC product is installed, the remaining space is filled with polyurethane foam. After a day, it will be possible to cut off the protruding surplus.

Scheme of installation of a plastic window sill

How to make a threshold for a balcony block

When installing a balcony block, care must be taken to supplement it with a threshold. It is needed for a smooth transition between the living room and the balcony.

You can make a threshold with your own hands from plastic or tiles. However, before starting work, it is important to pay attention to the installation height of the door frame. If it is small, then you can install the plastic threshold according to the following scheme:

1. Cleaning and leveling the concrete base.
2. Installation of support bars (their thickness is chosen based on the desired height of the threshold).
3. Aligning supports horizontally.
4. Threshold fitting.
5. Foaming the space underneath.
6. Waterproofing all joints with sealant.

Level base for the threshold

Installation of a plastic threshold on wooden supports

Plastic threshold to the balcony

To tile a concrete base with tiles, only the first step must be completed. Then you can start priming the working surface and applying the adhesive composition.

If the height from the floor to the edge of the door frame is significant, then you can raise the threshold with clinker bricks. In this case, you will:

1. Cleaning, leveling and priming of the concrete base.
2. Dilution of cement mortar.
3. Laying mortar bricks. Please note: they should not reach the slope angle with the inner wall of the room 3-4 cm.
4. Installation of wooden formwork along the perimeter of the threshold.
5. Final filling with mortar.
6. Removing formwork.

Clinker brick laying

The ledge can be tiled or decorated with plastic.

Finishing window and door slopes

It is possible with drywall, plaster and plastic (sheet material, sandwich panels). The technologies of work also differ.

Plastering is one of the most affordable and simple options for finishing slopes. The plaster has a low price, is easy to apply, forming a smooth and ready-to-finish coating. However, this material has a low rate of heat saving, can crack under the influence of external factors and is prone to mold. In addition, the process of working with plaster is rather “dirty”.

But if you decide to save your budget, then perform the plastering of the slopes as follows:

• Prepare your work surface carefully. Eliminate unevenness, degrease and dedust it.
• Check the evenness of the slopes using the building level. Permissible deviation along the axes - 2 mm per 1 m of the finished surface.
• Apply a layer of deep penetration primer.
• On the edges of the slopes on the "stumps" of the solution, fix the reinforcing corner or along the edge of the inner wall - a wooden rule (rail).
• Using a spatula, apply the solution to the work surface. You need to do this, as if throwing it.
• Distribute the solution along the slopes, making movements from the bottom up.
• Make a temperature gap between the frame and the slope in the form of a furrow 3-5 mm wide. Fill it with silicone sealant.
• After the plaster has dried, perform its finishing grout. To do this, use fine-grained sandpaper.

Distribution of mortar on the wall

When plastering, it is important not only to obtain a smooth surface of the walls, but also to evenly distribute the solution, to preserve the dawn of the slopes. For this purpose, a special tool is used - a malka. It can be made with your own hands from plywood, boards, timber, or even the remnants of PVC panels.

The optimal width of the bevel is 130-150 mm, and the length is 80-100 mm more than the width of the slope. On one side of the tool, you need to make a recess, which should correspond to the thickness of the window frame. Malka is pressed against the wall, with one end resting it against the frame, and the solution is leveled. It must be laid with a thickness of 5-6 mm.

Notch at the end

Perforated corner and window frame - beacons for the distribution of putty using bevels

Plastic slopes are resistant to moisture and mold, easy to maintain, aesthetic, affordable. Their main disadvantage is their brittleness under directed mechanical action.

The cladding material of the opening can be a sandwich panel with insulation or a simple PVC panel. You can install them in two different ways - using the start profile or without it.

In the first case, the work is performed as follows:

• The starting P-profile is screwed along the entire length of the frame with self-tapping screws.
• Along the edges of the slopes, a wooden lath crate is mounted. At the junction of the upper and side elements, a gap of 10 mm should be left. The protruding parts (“spikes”) of the panels will go into it.
• The end face is installed in the starting profile, a plastic slope pre-cut to the desired size.
• Insulate the slope with mineral wool or mounting foam.
• The second end is fixed on the crate with the help of “bugs” self-tapping screws.
• An F-profile is installed along the edge of the inner wall, fixing it with glue or liquid nails. In the corners it is mounted with an overlap, and then cut off.
• The places where the slope adjoins the window structure are insulated with liquid plastic or silicone sealant.

Fastening the starting profile along the perimeter of the frame

The space between the panel and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam

The second option - installing a plastic slope without a starting profile - involves performing similar actions, but with one exception. The PVC panel is inserted with a “thorn” directly into the mounting foam, with which the balcony block was mounted. To do this, it is cut to a depth of 10 mm. The width of the notch should not exceed 1 mm.

Note! If you are using a sandwich panel, you can make a "thorn" yourself. To do this, the product is first cut along the edge by ½ thickness. Then make an incision across. The result is an L-shaped panel edge.

Features of working with drywall

The opening for the balcony block is rarely sheathed with drywall.

• Firstly, this is a labor-intensive process that involves working not only with this material, but also with plaster, primer, and glue.
• Secondly, you need to use only moisture-resistant drywall. But even with this, the entire skin will need additional protection against moisture.
• Thirdly, under the influence of external factors, drywall can swell, exfoliate.

It is convenient to use GCR when you are sheathing interior walls. In this case, the work with slopes will look like this:

1. A metal UD profile is fixed along the window frame with self-tapping screws.
2. A drywall blank is inserted into it, starting from the top of the opening.
3. The formed cavity is filled with insulation, leaving 10 cm free from the edge.
4. An adhesive is applied to the edge of the slope and drywall is pressed against it.
5. All joints are additionally coated with glue.
6. After it dries, the slopes are puttied.

Adhesive method of fixing plasterboard slopes

Note! To get an even and durable base for subsequent fine finishing, you need to apply at least two layers of plaster to drywall.

Video master classes on the topic

Detailed videos that will help even a beginner to install a balcony block with a window sill and slopes on their own:

Tuning the opening and mounting the BB:

Self-installation of a window-door block on a balcony is a laborious process that requires a lot of time and financial costs. Directly the installation is preceded by a large amount of preparatory work. Both are based on certain theoretical knowledge and practical experience. If you're not willing to risk PVC construction by installing it yourself, consider hiring professionals.

During major repairs, reconstruction of city apartments, the replacement of old windows and doors, as a rule, is included in the list of mandatory works. The balcony block, which combines a wide window with a door in the design, is more difficult to install than other elements. The cost of installation for builders reaches 20 - 30% of the unit price. Therefore, for craftsmen, with the skills of a locksmith and plasterer, it is rational to replace the balcony block on their own.

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to select and buy the desired design, prepare the necessary materials and tools, dismantle the old exit to the balcony. Standard balcony blocks offered on the market differ in standard sizes, so accurate measurements are required (carried out along the inside of the opening) with an allowance for cracks sealed with plaster.

The sizes of the balcony block in the panel house (“Khrushchev”, “Stalinka”, a common “Czech” project) are also different. With a standard door height (2150 mm), the window frame (with a blind, pivoting sash, two sections) varies in size. Often there are standard sizes with a window height of 1300 mm and a width of 70, 90, 100 centimeters.

For non-standard architectural projects, with high, wide openings, bay windows, a structure made of plastic, hardwood is ordered individually. Sometimes for old buildings with wide openings in size, balcony blocks "Cheburashka" are suitable, in which the door is located between two windows of the same size.

When choosing a balcony window with a door, not only dimensions are important. The decisive criteria are cost (depending on the material), durability, reliability. The range on the market is most widely represented by PVC bindings.

Video on how to choose the right balcony block:

The performance of polyvinyl chloride (PVC block) is somewhat inferior to metal-plastic or hardwood. But for most people in the country, the affordable price of plastic windows and doors outweighs other considerations.

Mounting toolkit includes:

• a set of locksmith tools (hammers, screwdrivers, metal scissors);
• meters (rulers, tape measures, levels, squares, laser plane builder);
• rubber or wooden mallet;
• plastering devices (trowel, spatula, malka);
• brushes, rollers;
• mechanical tools (screwdriver, puncher, electric drill, mounting guns).

It is not necessary to buy all the necessary expensive tools. Part of the equipment (“grinder”, electric screwdriver, laser level) is offered by rental services.

In addition to tools, you will need:

• a set of hardware (dowels, anchor bolts, screws);
• wooden or plastic adjusting wedges;
• installation materials (sealants, polyurethane foam);
• materials for plastering and painting slopes (plaster mortar, putty, sandpaper, paint).

The sequence of operations for dismantling and installing the exit to the balcony depends on the season. During winter installation, it is rational to start dismantling after assembling the door frame and window frame so as not to dry out the room. When blocking, it is not forbidden to use destructive techniques - cut out elements and fasteners with a “grinder”, use crowbar, mount, hammer and chisel.

To dismantle the cover of the balcony block, you need:

• remove the glass by removing the glazing beads of the deaf sashes;
• swing doors, remove the door leaf from the hinges;
• dismantle the ebb (on open balconies);
• remove the window sill by removing it from the grooves (concrete window sills are broken with a hammer);
• saw or remove the entire frame (installation box);
• remove heaters and fasteners from the grooves;
• clear the opening of debris and accumulated dirt.

If you have chosen the dimensions of the binding correctly, you will not need to expand the opening or laborious sawing of the jumper above the exit. During dismantling, the dilapidated plaster on the slopes is knocked off, the opening is aligned vertically and horizontally.

Video instruction for dismantling the old balcony block:

Step-by-step installation of a balcony block

According to the installation methods, wooden, plastic, metal-plastic balcony blocks differ little. Using step-by-step instructions, you will be able to install binding from any material.

Assembling the balcony block

A trade kit for exiting to a balcony made of plastic or metal-plastic, as a rule, consists of assembled doors and windows. Manufacturers include additional elements in separate configurations: plastic slope panels, corner profiles for their installation, ebbs, thresholds, window sills.

Pre-installation assembly is needed to check the compatibility of all elements, to ensure the safety of double-glazed windows. The design of a typical balcony block made of plastic provides for a screw (self-tapping) connection of the window frame and the door frame through a connecting profile.

Taking the whole set out of the box, you need:

1. Remove glass panes. In the blind casements of windows, double-glazed windows are reinforced with embossed flexible glazing beads, which are removed by successive bending with a spatula or knife.
2. Remove the door and turn-and-turn sashes from the hinges. First, the stem of the upper hinge is removed. The lock opens, the binding is removed from the bottom loop.
3. Connect the door frame and window frame. The door frame is turned on its side. Holes for fasteners are drilled from the inside of the profile in increments of 400 - 700 mm. A connecting profile is laid on the mounting foam and screws or screws with nuts are tightened. The length of the screws or self-tapping screws is selected according to the depth of the internal partition of the connecting profile. The same operation is carried out from the side of the window frame. After the installation is completed, the connections are masked with decorative caps.
4. With a direct method of fastening, drill holes for fastening the box into the opening. The diameter of the holes, their location (on the outside or inside) depend on the selected mounting system. The fastening pitch remains the same (400 - 700 mm).
5. Limit the mobility of the structure with angled L-shaped brackets on the inside or outside. External brackets are mounted with box gaps with an opening of 1 - 2 centimeters.

Video on assembling a balcony block:

If the installation of the box is carried out in winter, after assembly, they begin to dismantle the old exit to the balcony.

Choosing fasteners

If the use of a specific fastening system is not prescribed by the instructions of the manufacturer of plastic profiles and double-glazed windows, there are several options for choosing fasteners. Through anchor bolts passing through the profile are quite reliable. But for their installation, it is required to brick a plate with a screw thread into the opening.

Straight or shaped brackets (which are inaccurately called "anchor plates" in the trade) are attached to the window and door profile with self-tapping screws. The plate is fixed to the brick or concrete of the window opening with anchor bolts, construction dowels, dowels (concrete screws). The shape of three or four stamped holes in the plate allows you to combine the methods of fastening.

Installing a low tide for an open balcony

On open balconies, a window with a plastic balcony door on top is protected by a low tide. An elongated narrow plane made of galvanized iron, plastic, aluminum protects the window and door from rain streams flowing from above, streams of melting snow, and falling icicles.

If there are no window sills and plastic ebbs in the kit, they are bought at a building materials store or made independently. The advantages of ready-made complete ebbs are dimensional conformity to the exit to the balcony, durability, anti-corrosion properties of the plastic part.

The tide is installed before starting the installation of the window frame and door frame. Methods for installing the ebb depend on its shape and size. The correct extension of the ebb above the outlet should be 100 - 110 mm, the angle of inclination should be 110 degrees. The visor is installed according to the level, strictly horizontally.

The bend of the upper edge of the ebb is screwed to the wall with dowels, a possible gap with the upper balcony is sealed with mounting foam and sealant. Since the operation is carried out from the side of the street, it is dangerous. To ensure the safety of the installer, strong scaffolding and insurance are used.

Preparing the balcony block for installation

When installing a balcony door with a window, you need to strictly observe the verticals and horizontals. Do not pay attention to discrepancies with the opening. The distortion of the structure will lead to the fact that the door will sag, the windows will not close. Discrepancies with the opening are eliminated when the slopes are plastered.

Video on preparing the balcony block for installation:

Installation begins with fitting the balcony exit frame and pre-installation. When installing a balcony block with your own hands, it is difficult to achieve precise vertical fit. For the correct geometric orientation of the binding, double wooden or plastic wedges are used, which are installed with narrow ends on opposite sides of the box. Knocking out the wedges with light blows of a wooden mallet or rubber mallet, the parts of the box are raised or lowered vertically, shifted in the horizontal direction. Gaps for warming the exit to the balcony are provided on all sides of the perimeter of the box. Installation of wedges under imposts (vertical partitions between window sections) is mandatory.

During the operation, it is more convenient to use plastic wedges, which do not allow perforation to move to their original position. The position of the frame is controlled by a level, a plumb line, a building square. Precise geometry accuracy (with an offset of 1-2 mm) can be achieved using a laser plane builder.

Having achieved the correct location of the box, mark marks for drilling holes in the opening and on the box. Geometry measurements are made before and after marking, as a loosely installed box is displaced. If direct fastening of the box with anchor bolts is provided, the frame is drilled. Drill marks serve as markings for anchor bolts. After removing the frame, recesses are made in the opening. Anchor plates are embedded in them on a cement mortar. When using mounting on brackets, brackets are screwed onto the removed window frame and frame. Before the final installation, the box orientation operations are repeated.

Mounting sequence

When mounting a PVC balcony block with brackets, perform the following operations:

After the installation is completed, it is not necessary to remove the protective plastic tape, with which the balcony block is pasted around the perimeter. Fans who make this mistake are forced to wash the box from plaster, putty, and paint.

Video on the topic of attaching a balcony block:

Balcony block installation:

Filling gaps with mounting foam

When installing a PVC balcony block, gaps around the perimeter are left specifically to insulate the exit to the balcony. According to GOST, the insulation of the assembly seam consists of three layers. In practice, the gaps are filled with heat-insulating material, which is sealed on both sides of the box and frame with PSUL tape or liquid sealant.

As a heat insulator, ordinary mounting foam, polyurethane foam from cylinders, thermolene, polyethylene foam tape are used. The choice of thermal insulation material depends on your financial capabilities. Inexpensive polyurethane foam fills the slots completely, leaving no gaps. The instructions do not recommend using the foam at low temperatures (below -10°C).

Slope finishing operations

The easiest way is to install plastic slopes (or sandwich panels), which are sold complete with a window block. Plastic panels, closed from the side of the room with a corner, do not require separate finishing work. Under them, you only need to level the surface of the slope with cement mortar or alabaster (gypsum). The plastic panel is cut to the size of the slope. The starting profile and wall corners are attached to the frame, the wall with hidden self-tapping screws ("bugs"). Drywall slopes are also installed.

It is more difficult to finish slopes with plaster mortar. It will require plasterer's tools (falcon, as a rule, trowel, trowel, trowel), skills in working with cement-sand, lime mortars.

On the leveled surface of the slope, the solution is applied in several layers. The draft layer is leveled with a rule, the following layers are rubbed with a trowel and a trowel. To form a uniform clearance of a slope with a binding (“dawn”), a bevel with a cutout of the desired shape is used.

The final layer of plaster after complete drying is puttied and sanded. For these operations, universal or acrylic (waterproof) putties are used. To obtain a smooth surface, the operation is repeated several times. After finishing grinding, the slopes are painted with the paint of your choice (water-based, oil, enamel) using a brush, roller, spray gun.

Installing additional parts

Additional details of the balcony block include a window sill and a door threshold. If these parts are not included, they must be purchased separately. It is rational to use parts from a material similar to the binding, but for the intended design, you can purchase an acrylic window sill, which is sold in various colors.

cool