Climbing rose - decoration of the garden plot. It is often used for vertical gardening both in private estates and in public places.

The simplicity of the formation of the bush and the variety of varieties allow you to create magnificent color compositions on arches, tripods, as well as decorate the walls of buildings and create hedges.

In this article, we will tell you in detail how to grow climbing roses in the garden and what conditions must be observed for the healthy growth of the plant and its flowering.

Location selection

Climbing rose bushes grow well and bloom profusely in sunny and ventilated places. Since the plant has whips from 2 to 5 meters, it needs a garter for supports. It can be purchased or self-made.

Note: it is desirable that a shadow falls on the rose for at least 2 hours a day in order to avoid burns of leaves and stems.

Soil requirements are low. When planting seedlings, the ground is prepared by introducing the mineral and organic complex of fertilizers necessary for growth.

The rose takes root well on loamy and peaty soils. Easily tolerates drought, but does not tolerate wetlands. Places in the garden where groundwater is close to the surface should be excluded, because the roots of the rose reach 2 meters.

Planting scheme and hole preparation

Rose seedlings are planted in prepared holes. Roses are light-loving plants, for the development of lashes and the laying of flower buds for the next year, good lighting of the bush is necessary.

To do this, seedlings are placed at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other or from the wall.

A bucket of humus, 1 kg of lime, 1 bucket of sand or clay are placed at the bottom (depending on the composition of the soil on the site, if the substrate is sandy, then it is supplemented with clay), 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate.

Preparing seedlings and planting

Seedlings are planted in early spring and autumn. It is better to plant in autumn in September, then the rose will have time to take root by the winter period and will begin to grow actively from early spring.

In spring, planting is done in April, so in the first year flowering will come 10-15 days later than in adult plants.

A climbing rose seedling can be grown independently from seeds, which will require hard and painstaking work. Rose seeds are small, require stratification and very careful handling and care.
Preparation for landing goes like this:

• the day before planting, soak the roots of the plant in a stimulant solution;
• cut the stems of the seedling, leaving a height of about 30 cm, grease the slices with pitch, which will prevent infections;
• all bad and long roots are removed, the sections are treated with charcoal (can be replaced with activated charcoal, which is easy to buy at a pharmacy);
• just before planting, the roots are dipped into a mash made of clay and mullein.

After carrying out the preparatory work, they break into landing. A hill of earth is poured into the prepared hole, on which the seedling is placed.

Note: the root neck of the plant should be located 10-15 cm below ground level. Such a deepening allows you to protect the bush from harsh winters.

The roots are distributed throughout the mound and covered with the rest of the earth mixture to the surface. So that there is no space left with air inside, the earth is rammed. The seedling is abundantly watered with warm water or a solution of a root stimulator. The topsoil is mulched with sawdust, straw or grass. This will prevent the emergence of weeds and allow the young plant to develop well.

rose bush care

When growing roses, the florist should pay attention to the following points:

1. 1. Watering. Roses need abundant watering once every 8-10 days directly into the hole.
   2. Root top dressing is carried out at least 1 time in two weeks. The best fertilizer would be a mixture of wood ash (1kg), mullein (1kg) and superphosphate (20-30g) per bucket of water. During the growing season, the rose requires at least 4 dressings. Use organic, mineral and complex fertilizers. During the flowering period, top dressing is not produced.

1. 1. Foliar top dressing is carried out by spraying the leaves with a solution of complex liquid fertilizer for indoor flowers.
   2. . Spring pruning promotes the formation of a bush, regulates the duration and abundance of flowering. In the spring, frozen and damaged shoots are removed. Particular attention should be paid to the height of the pruning, which depends on the variety of rose. Summer pruning is carried out to stimulate a new abundant flowering, for this, already faded lashes are removed.

1. 1. Formation of a bush for abundant flowering. In early spring, the main lashes are left on the ground for the growth of replacement shoots that will bloom the next year. When the replacement shoots reach a height of 50 cm, the main lashes are raised and placed in a horizontal or spiral position.
   2. Treatment for diseases and pests. Conducted as needed. The main diseases that climbing roses are susceptible to are powdery mildew, rust, bacterial cancer, black spot. For the prevention and treatment of these ailments, solutions of copper sulfate (200g per 10l), iron sulfate (300g per 10l), Bordeaux mixture (200-300g per 10l) are used. From pests use chemicals (Spark, Fufafon, Intavir).

Attention: cut and destroy all damaged shoots so that diseases do not spread to healthy lashes.

(click on picture to enlarge)

You can read even more useful information about the features of growing and caring for climbing roses.

- flowers available for breeding by an ordinary gardener that do not require complex care. Compliance with the above tips will allow you to enjoy the beautiful flowering bushes of climbing roses in your summer cottage. As the rose growers say, once you start, then you will not be able to stop.

From this video You will learn how to properly plant and care for a climbing rose:

Climbing roses are considered one of the most popular plants for vertical gardening. They are indispensable in landscape design, perfectly decorating any architectural buildings. Climbing varieties braid arches, arbors, lattice structures and columns. Most often, these flowers are grown in areas where a mild and warm climate prevails. In regions with cold weather, roses also grow, but require additional warming for the winter.

Getting to know the climbing rose - which variety to choose?

Choosing a seedling for planting is an important step in growing roses in your garden. After all, the future development of the plant depends on the quality of the shoot. Flowers go on sale in February, but such an early purchase often leads to disappointment. Inexperienced gardeners do not cope with the storage of the shoot, because until the moment of disembarkation it must be properly maintained.

Flower growers are advised to choose a sleeping seedling. Then it is wrapped in paper or placed in a bag and sent to the zero chamber of the refrigerator. In such conditions, he will safely wait for his time.

If the first signs of growth are visible on a young plant, it is stored in the same way. But when stepsons and leaves began to develop at the seedling, it must be urgently planted in a pot for growing, watered and sprayed. Before planting in open ground, the bush is stored in a lighted cool room.

Climbing roses are a rather capricious garden culture. To quickly understand their properties and features, flowers are divided into several groups. You can get acquainted with them in the following classification:

1. 1. Real climbing roses with flexible arcuate stems. In length, they reach from 1.5 to 5 meters, depending on the variety. The stepchildren are bright green in color, the spikes are curved and thin. The flowers have a variety of shades, they are double and semi-double in shape, most often small in size. The flowering is plentiful, the buds gather in dense inflorescences and do not wither for a month. They bloom in early June. Representatives of this species are winter-hardy, experiencing frosts under light cover.
2. 2. The second group was bred as a result of crossing with remontant, tea and hybrid tea varieties. They are called climbers. The resulting plants are characterized by high-speed growth and long shoots that reach 4 meters. Roses have large flowers, gathering in loose panicles. The main features are the ability to re-bloom, resistance to cold and many diseases.
3. 3. The third group, known as climbings, was bred by mutations from spray roses with large buds. Varieties are characterized by strong growth, and their flowering time comes a little later. The buds develop large, have a bright saturated shade.

Planting a climbing rose on the site - secrets for beginners

A climbing rose is planted both in autumn and in spring. Although you should stop at the first option. In the autumn, the seedlings harden off and start growing more actively. And bushes of spring planting lag behind in development for several weeks.

Autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October. This is the most favorable time: the heat has passed, and the cold weather is still far away. Such seedlings have time to take root before the first frost.

Such a landing method is risky for the northern regions, for example, Siberia. It is more suitable for the Moscow region and the Middle strip. During severe winters, young plants die immediately. If the gardener is not sure whether his flowers will be able to overwinter, you should plant a bush in April-May.

For the planting site of seedlings, sunlit areas are chosen, in extreme cases, semi-darkened corners of the territory are suitable. Excess moisture is poorly tolerated by this crop, so it is not recommended to grow it on heavy clay soil with nearby groundwater.

Representatives of the Pink family take root well in fertile loose soil. The ideal condition would be a plot with a slight slope to the south.

How to carry out preparatory work?

For planting take samples with developed roots or already grafted. A strong bush should have 2-3 lignified stepchildren. Healthy bark on the trunk and branches is green and undamaged. Also, high-quality samples are distinguished by the presence of many white small roots.

Purchased specimens are left in water for several hours to absorb moisture. In the spring, a rose with an open rhizome is placed in a container with a root formation stimulator (for example, Kornevin, Kornerost). In such a solution, the plant needs to be within a day.

Before directly burying the bush in the ground, it is cut a little. Remove damaged roots and slightly shorten old long shoots (by 5–10 cm). If the seedling is purchased with a closed root system, that is, in a container, then it is not cut off. But an earthen lump, in which thin whitish roots are visible, is still soaked in water.

In order for the flowering of climbing plants to be lush, the right soil is selected for them, ideally it should be loamy and well loosened. If the land on the site does not meet these parameters, it is improved.

Clay soil is diluted with sand, and a small amount of clay is added to sandy soil. Fertility from such actions will not increase, but it will allow to establish the permeability of moisture and air. The scarce substrate is enriched with chernozem, biohumus. With such a mixture, the planting hole is filled to 2/3 of its volume in order to freely place the rhizome.

The top layer of soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost (5 kg) and wood ash (1 tablespoon). Sometimes a rose is fed with a complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, 15 g per sample. Nitrogen substances are introduced into the ground only during spring planting (calculated as 20 g for one bush).

The soil is often enriched with beneficial microorganisms. They are able to process those substances that are poorly absorbed by roses, turning them into available ones. Preparations containing such bacteria are sold in specialized stores.

Growing technology and principles of care for seedlings

Bushes with dormant buds are planted in open ground when its temperature reaches 10–12 degrees. If planting work is carried out in the spring, then the time of planting is determined by the condition of the buds on the trees. Instances with open roots are planted before they bloom. Container samples are placed in the ground after opening the eyes.

The seat is prepared in advance, replacing unfavorable soil with a special mixture, which consists of the following components:

• leaf land;
• peat;
• rotted manure;
• sod land;
• sand.

All ingredients are mixed in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1: 1 and fill the hole with them. Depth of processing - not less than 70 cm. As a result of preparation, the recess for the seedling is filled with layers:

• the lower area is filled with drainage (pebbles, rubble, broken bricks);
• medium level - a mixture of nutrients;
• the top layer is garden soil.

If the gardener makes a single planting, the size of the pit is 60 cm high and the same width. In groups, the distance between representatives of vigorous varieties is 2 m, for the rest the distance is reduced - 1.5 m. The soil on the entire site is cultivated by double digging. Virgin lands are dug up three times.

When all the preparatory work has been done, it's time to place the bush in a new place. Landing is carried out in the following sequence:

• check the size of the pit, it should be wide and deep enough;
• pour a hill of preplant soil mixture;
• the roots are distributed along the slope of the mound;
• sprinkle with an earthen mixture, evenly dividing it between the rhizome;
• shake the plant up and down;
• the soil is compacted, eliminating voids, filled to the very edge.

The vaccination site is immersed in the ground by 5 cm, it should not be above this level. The bush is watered abundantly with water, a little soil is added. When the young branches grow by 2–3 cm, the rose is unraveled.

A bush that is planted against a wall has roots in the opposite direction from it. They also act when planting a flower near a support in the form of lattices, arches or columns.

The specimen, which was in the container, is filled with water and removed from the package. Broken shoots are removed. During transplantation, the earthen ball is left intact, placing the rose in the hole with it. If leaves have formed on the seedling, then it is not spudded.

The long stems of the climbing flower initially need partial shading and shelter from drafts. After the buds open, the bush begins to be hardened by the sun and wind, temporarily removing the shelter. A few days later it is completely removed.

We learn to care for flowers - we carry out pruning, disease prevention and shelter for the winter

Care for representatives of the Pink family during their cultivation consists in regular watering, fertilizing, pruning and shelter for the cold season.

To prepare a rose for winter, it is customary to cover it. For this purpose, two methods are used:

1. 1. With the air-dry method, the branches of the rose are bent to the ground, a frame is erected over them and a plastic film is stretched. The non-woven fabric is placed on top. With the onset of spring, the snow leaves the greenhouse and it becomes hot inside. To prevent the flowers from rotting and getting sick, the shelter is ventilated.
2. 2. The second technique is more simplified. The branches are bent down and immediately covered with non-woven material in two layers. Additionally insulated with spruce branches. Such a structure does not allow the plant to sop during the thaw. However, if the winter is wet, the seal becomes wet. In contact with the stems, it causes controversy.

In preparation for wintering, the leaves are cut off on the bushes so that they do not become a source of an infectious disease. They start such work in September, finish - before the construction of greenhouses (until November). They rent a shelter when frosts below -7 degrees are not expected on the street.

Caring for climbing roses, making annual pruning. There are two types of such procedures:

• anti-aging (applied to old bushes, allows you to get rid of lignified branches that do not give new shoots);
• forming (carried out every year several times per season).

The most important time for pruning is spring. When the plant woke up, the caked stepchildren are straightened, shearing the blackened shoots to a clean tissue. Places of cuts are treated with brilliant green or garden pitch. Bushes affected by fungal infections and mold are sprayed with copper sulfate.

The plant is pruned again after the first flowering, removing wilted inflorescences and buds. If the rose is prone to a second bloom, cut off some of the shoots. This will save her from overgrowing and allow her to bloom fully.

You can decorate even the most unattractive corner of the garden and at the same time add a piece of light romance to it with the help of climbing roses. These unusual, flowering climbing plants delight their owners with their flowering almost throughout the season. But for it to be flawless, climbing roses require proper planting and special care. We will talk about all the subtleties and nuances of growing climbing plants in this article.

Curly rose: planting and care, photo

Any plant in the garden or in the suburban area requires care. Particular attention should be paid to some flowering crops, which include weaving roses. but with long branches. Abundant and long flowering of this beautiful plant can be achieved only with the exact implementation of all the rules for planting, careful care throughout the year, timely pruning and protection from winter frosts and pests.

Choosing a landing site

Roses are photophilous, therefore, with a lack of sunlight, fresh stems will develop poorly and bloom only next season. However, the midday sun can burn the plant. The place for planting roses should be such that during the hottest hours the bushes were in the shade. The best option would be a site that the sun heats in the morning. In the morning, dew from the leaves will quickly evaporate, and viral diseases will not be terrible for roses.

Curly roses are also picky. They do not tolerate drafts well, and therefore the corners of buildings are not suitable for planting them. Do not plant them in areas where roses have previously grown and in wetlands. It is best to choose a bed with a slope so that water does not stagnate in the soil. The roots of the plant reach about two meters in length, so if the soil moisture is constantly very high, the flowers are planted on a hill.

Climbing shrubs for decoration can be planted along the walls of the building. So that their roots are not depleted at the same time, the distance from the wall should be at least 60 cm. In any case, climbing roses should be planted near some kind of support. These can be fences, nets, pergolas, arches, walls, or specially crafted poles or cones.

When to plant climbing roses?

In temperate regions, shrubs are planted in open ground in late September - early October. Within two weeks, they will give the first roots and will have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In spring, the root and aboveground parts will begin to grow actively, the bush will become lush, gain strength and bloom. However, in the northern regions, climbing roses are best planted in the spring, since the bushes planted in the fall will not have time to adapt, and may freeze out in winter.

Plants planted in the spring are delayed in their development by about half a month and require increased attention. Before planting in the ground, such seedlings are cut into three buds.

Selection and processing of seedlings

Beautiful climbing rosalia can only be obtained with healthy seedlings. Their viability and quality is indicated by the appearance of the trunk. It should only be whitish green in color, not gray or brown. Acquired seedlings in open ground are not planted immediately. They must first be prepared:

Thanks to this preparation for landing bushes will begin to grow actively, and during the flowering period, many buds are formed on them.

Soil preparation

Climbing roses love fertile, loamy, well-drained soils. Only heavy clay and sand are not suitable for their cultivation. Therefore, clay areas are diluted with sand, and sandy areas with clay. More suitable in terms of chemical composition and loose soil will become after adding a small amount of lime to it.

When digging, soil fertility can be increased by adding to it:

• phosphate fertilizers;
• humus;
• humus;
• phosphorobacterin (special soil bacteria).

The soil is being prepared for planting climbing shrubs in advance. It is necessary to dig it up several times at the end of summer, and then loosen it again in the spring.

Landing features

The roots of a young plant should not experience a lack of space, so the holes for them should be free enough. The optimal depth is considered to be 60-65 cm. In order for the root system to develop freely, the distance between plants must be at least one meter.

When planting roses in a hole, you must observe the following recommendations:

The support to which the rose will be attached in the future should not interfere with the development of the root system. If the support is portable, then special tripods, lattices or trellises can be used. The pole and tripods can be made independently by knocking down for this wooden bars with a height of 2.5-3 meters. They will look gorgeous as arch supports, on both sides of which two bushes are planted. By the end of the second year, they will be completely entwined with climbing roses with delicate flowers (pictured).

Care of planted bushes

The main rules for caring for climbing roses include regular watering, timely feeding of plants, tying and pruning of shoots, sheltering bushes for the winter and protecting them from pests and diseases. Let's consider each item in more detail.

Watering and feeding

Climbing shrubs do not like excess moisture and tolerate drought without problems. It is recommended to water them once a week with a small amount of water, which should not be cold. Overwatering plants can lead to viral diseases and poor appearance of the bushes.

The best way to fertilize roses manure or other organic fertilizers, alternating them with mineral supplements. It should be borne in mind that young plants at first will have enough fertilized soil when planting. Therefore, it is not necessary to feed them too often. The next year after planting, care for climbing roses will consist of fertilizing with fertilizers of the following composition:

• fresh black soil;
• humus;
• phosphorus supplement;
• humus.

With such a mixture, the soil in which roses grow is “enlivened” in spring and autumn. If it is not possible to prepare the composition yourself, then you can buy ready-made fertilizer for roses.

Pruning shoots

All climbing roses divided into two types, each of which requires a certain amount of trimming:

1. In flowering shrubs from June to July, after planting, all shoots are shortened. Shoots 30 cm long should remain. New stems that appear during active growth are cut off as needed to form a beautiful bush.
2. Roses with a small number of basal shoots that appear only on old branches are shortened to 30 cm in the first year. The next year after planting, all old shoots are cut out completely.

garter of climbing roses

After pruning, new branches will begin to grow, which must be directed, giving the bush the intended shape. To form more buds, individual lashes are tied up. At the same time, it is undesirable that they go only upwards, since with this arrangement, the buds are formed only at the tops.

For lush flowering bushes There are several ways to tie:

1. Shoots can be arranged "fan", leaving side branches not tied up. They will not interfere with each other, freely extending to the sides and up.
2. The main shoots are arranged horizontally, tied to a support. After a while, they will give lateral new branches that will grow upwards, forming a cloud of beautiful flowers.
3. In order for curly branches to braid an arch or a pillar, they are tied in a spiral, twisting around the support.

Whatever way the bush is formed, one should not neglect the care of climbing roses and preparing them for winter.

Protecting roses from frost

Before proceeding to the shelter, the bushes must be prepared. For this, leaves are removed from them, old loops and weak shoots are cut out. As a result 11-12 healthy and strong shoots should remain. All work is carried out in dry weather.

The method of sheltering a climbing plant depends on the region in which it grows. In regions with a mild climate, branches can not be removed from the support by first covering them with spruce branches, and then wrapping them with foil.

In areas with severe winters, plants are completely removed from the support. First, they gather in a large bundle and bind. After the air temperature drops to -5C, they gently bend to the ground, where they are fixed with wire or pegs. The base of the bush is sprinkled with a mixture of peat and soil, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches. Everything is hidden from above dense film or agrofibre.

It is very important to remove the shelter in time in the spring. Otherwise, in a humid environment and without fresh air, roses can suffocate and start to hurt. On open shrubs, shoots are refreshed and tied to supports. The first feeding is recommended only after the appearance of young leaves.

With errors in care and improper arrangement of bushes on the site, they may be affected by the following diseases:

When treating climbing roses, it must be remembered that all cut affected areas must be burned. Otherwise, they can infect other plants.

Proper planting and care is the key to abundant and long flowering of these royal flowers. Those who decide to grow climbing roses on their site will never regret it.

Planting and caring for climbing roses

With the help of climbing (curly) roses. They will create a romantic atmosphere, delight with flowering almost throughout the warm season. In order for these beautiful plants to fully reveal their potential, it is necessary to provide the appropriate conditions.

Each plant needs at least minimal care. Such chic beauties as climbing roses will need to be given special attention. Knowing all the nuances, performing a series of simple steps, you will achieve a long and abundant flowering.

Place to land

illumination

Curly roses are photophilous. If there is insufficient light, new shoots will develop poorly and will not bloom this season. Direct sunlight during the midday hours should be avoided - their intense exposure can cause burns. Choose a place so that at this time the bushes are out of the zone of influence of the sun. It is good if the site is flooded with sunlight in the morning. Dew quickly evaporates from the leaves, which will serve as protection against viral diseases.

Comfortable conditions

• The corners of buildings are not suitable for planting climbing roses - they do not tolerate drafts well.
• Do not plant in damp, wetlands.
• Avoid places where roses have previously grown.
• So that moisture does not stagnate in the soil, it is better to make a bed with a slope. The rhizome deepens into the soil by about 2 m: with constantly high humidity, make high beds.

Curly roses need support. Often they are planted along the walls of buildings. To prevent the root system from depleting, retreat from the wall should be at least 60 cm. Other possible supports: fence, mesh, pergola, arch, special posts, cones.

Site preparation

Fertile loamy soil with good drainage is ideal for growing climbing roses. Heavy loams and pure sand are contraindicated. Clay soil should be diluted with sand, and clay should be added to sandy soil. It is recommended to add a small amount of garden lime. Also, to increase the fertility of the soil for digging the site, they add: humus, phosphorus fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin).

Prepare the site a couple of months before. It should be dug several times, make the appropriate additives.

When is the best time to plant climbing roses: spring or autumn?

For regions with a temperate climate, autumn planting is preferable (late September-early October). For two weeks, they will already give roots and have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the spring, the rhizome and the aerial part will grow. The bush will gain strength, become lush, delight with flowering.

In the northern regions, climbing roses should be planted in spring, because when planted in autumn, they will not have time to take root and may die in winter.

During spring planting, climbing roses lag behind in the pace of development by about half a month, and require increased attention to themselves. It is necessary to cut the seedlings into 3 buds before planting.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Choose healthy seedlings. The trunk should be whitish green, not brown or gray.

Bushes from the nursery before planting need preliminary preparation:

• Soak the seedlings in water overnight.
• Then completely cut off diseased and damaged roots, shorten healthy ones by about 15 cm.
• Remove broken branches, the rest should be shortened by 15-20 cm.
• Treat the cut areas with a fungicide.
• Hold in a solution with a growth stimulator.

Thanks to these measures, the bushes will successfully take root, will actively grow, and will give lush flowering.

If rose seedlings are already cut (sold in a package), they do not need to be cut further.

Planting a climbing rose in the ground

Climbing roses in the open field is actually the simplest operation that even a beginner in gardening will perform.

Planting hole preparation

Sufficient space is required for the full development of the root system. Make the holes free, the optimal depth will be 60-65 cm. When planting, keep a distance of at least 1 meter between individual plants.

First add a nutrient mixture to each planting hole (peat compost is perfect).

How to plant a climbing rose

• Distribute the roots of the seedling freely in the hole.
• Fill the voids between the roots with soil.
• Pour about 10 liters of warm water under each bush.
• Fill the remaining space with soil.
• Deepen the root neck into the soil by 10-12 cm. This will additionally protect the seedling from frost.

The support installed for the subsequent fastening of the bush should not interfere with the normal development of the root system. For portable support, special lattices, tripods, trellises are used.

How to make a support with your own hands

You can easily make tripods yourself: knock down wooden beams about 2.5-3 m long. Arches look spectacular as a support. If you plant 2 bushes on both sides, by the end of the second year, curly lashes with the most delicate inflorescences will completely braid them.

How to care for climbing roses outdoors

Watering

Delightful shrubs. On the contrary, an excess of moisture leads to an oppressed appearance, provokes the occurrence of viral diseases. It is enough to water once a week, adding a small amount of water. It must be warm.

top dressing

Young plants in the first year of growth do not need - they have enough nutrients from the soil fertilized during planting.

• Start fertilizing from the second year. It is better to do this in the spring, because it is believed that fertilization in summer and autumn prolongs the growing season, and green shoots freeze over in winter. It is optimal to complete fertilization in the first half of August.
• Roses gratefully respond to organics. You can use mullein infusion, slurry or special fertilizer for roses.
• From the third year of growth, mineral fertilizers can be used. In the spring, apply 100-120 g of mineral complex fertilizer under each bush. Spend the next top dressing at the end of flowering. Given the predisposition to organic matter, in the fall, add 1 kg of compost per 1 m² for digging between rows.

How to cut a climbing rose: video and photo

Climbing (curly) roses are conventionally divided into 4 varieties that require appropriate pruning. For any variety, the first pruning should be done immediately after planting. Leave processes about 30 cm long. In the future, consider the features of each.

Climbing roses that bloom on last year's stems

From the second year of growth, new stems are cut as needed to form a beautiful bush. In autumn, old shoots that have bloomed this year should be cut off. For the skeleton, leave 1-2 last year's shoots. Shorten the side shoots on them to 10 cm from the base (by 2-3 buds).

Climbing roses that form a small number of new shoots

The main part of the growth appears on old stems. Only weak or diseased branches need pruning; faded buds are also cut into two buds. Old stems are completely cut out as new ones appear.

Climbing roses that bloom on current year's shoots

Shorten faded shoots by 2-3 buds. Weak, diseased branches must be removed completely.

Climbing roses with a pyramidal crown that bloom on current year's growth

They differ from the previous group by moderate growth rates. Faded shoots are similar. In addition, to maintain the symmetry of the bush, you should cut out a few main shoots that are out of sight.

How to tie a climbing rose

Stimulates the growth of new branches - they should be guided (tied up), giving the chosen shape to your bush. It is undesirable that all the lashes be located horizontally (they were directed only upwards). In this case, the buds will appear only at the tops.

• To make the bush bloom magnificently, use any method of garter.
• Arrange the stems in a fan, leaving the side shoots untied. They will extend freely up and to the sides.
• You can arrange the main shoots horizontally, tied to a support. New side branches will rush upward, creating a blooming cloud.
• Direct the shoots around the support and tie in a spiral if you want the whips to wrap around the post or arch.

Shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Preparing bushes for wintering

Unfortunately, climbing roses cannot boast of high frost resistance. Careful work will be required to preserve the bushes in the winter.

At the beginning of autumn, reduce watering, stop loosening the soil and cutting off faded buds so as not to stimulate growth. It is recommended to apply granular fertilizer "Autumn". At the end of September, carefully remove the shoots from the supports - they should bend down to the ground under their own weight. Pruning, leaving 11-12 healthy and strong shoots.

pruning

Herbaceous unripened shoots also need to be cut off - treat the cut points with brilliant green. Cut off the lower leaves completely along with the petioles. After a day, dry sand should be poured into the middle of the bush (1 bucket is enough for young bushes, 2-3 will be required for adults). Leave for a couple of days. Then remove all remaining leaves, treat the bush with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

De-support and shelter

• All work must be carried out in dry weather.
• In regions with mild winters, you can not remove it from the support - cover the bushes with spruce branches, then wrap it with foil.
• If the winters in your area are severe, be sure to remove the branches from the supports. Collect the shoots in a bundle and tie. When the air temperature drops to -5 ° C, gently bend them to the ground, secure with pegs or staples. Cover with spruce branches, then wrap with a thick film or agrofibre.

In the spring it is very important to remove the shelter in a timely manner. Without access to fresh air and in a humid environment, the bushes can suffocate and start to hurt. At a stable air temperature of -3 ° C, open the shelter at the ends until the soil under the bush begins to thaw. Then you can remove the top cover, leave the spruce branches until the frost stops.

Diseases and pests

If you do not follow, improperly care for the bushes, diseases may occur.

When diseases occur, all affected areas must be removed and burned so as not to provoke infection of other plants.

• Black spot is manifested by brown and black spots with a yellow rim covering the leaves, young shoots. Remove the damaged parts, then you need to feed with potassium and phosphate.
• When powdery mildew is affected, a whitish coating can be found on the stems and leaves, the buds stop blooming. Cut out the affected areas. Treat the bush with a solution of iron and copper sulfate.
• Tubercles and growths on the roots are a bacterial cancer. The plant dries up and may die. Cut out the affected roots, treat the remaining ones with a solution of copper sulfate.

Possible pests: spider mites, aphids, scale insects, rose sawfly, leafworm. Bushes must be treated with a fungicide.

How to get rid of aphids on roses, look at the video:

Weaving roses are indispensable when creating vertical gardening. Arches and gazebos decorated with this variety of roses look gorgeous. But in order for a weaving rose to decorate the site with its appearance, you need to know the features of its planting and properly care for it. After all, mistakes during planting and care will not only spoil the appearance of the shrub, but can also lead to its death.

Description of climbing roses

As follows from the name and description of climbing roses, these plants have long whip shoots up to 5 meters or more, which do not have their own wrapping organs such as tendrils. Therefore, they need an auxiliary device in the form of a frame.

These plants are divided into two groups: once flowering and re-flowering. The first are very tall climbing vines with very lush and abundant flowering. Their flowers are small, collected in heavy clusters. Varieties of these roses belong to the Rambler group. They bloom in June for a month. Inflorescences are large, from 30-40 small flowers, appear only on last year's shoots. Until late autumn, the bushes retain openwork greenery. The climber group combines varieties of large-flowered climbing roses obtained by crossing rambler roses with floribunda and hybrid tea roses. They have thicker shoots up to 3.5 m long and bloom on the shoots of the current year continuously until late autumn, but flowering is not so plentiful.

Repeating or continuously blooming climbing roses have many varieties with large or small flowers, fragrant or not very fragrant, drooping or looking up.

Choosing a place to plant a climbing rose

The most important point when planting climbing roses is the right place, it should be sunny and well ventilated, and there should be a free place nearby for sheltering roses for the winter. In no case should climbing roses be planted in drafts and wetlands, as well as in the place where roses used to grow.

It is better if the site has a slight slope, this will protect the soil from stagnant rainwater and excess moisture. If a place is chosen near the wall, then the planting hole is dug at a distance of 50-60 cm from the wall so that the root system does not dry out.

And plants of other species are planted at a distance of at least 50 cm from the bush of climbing roses. After planting, the stems of climbing roses are attached to a support.

Soil for planting climbing roses

Roses are very sensitive to excess moisture in the soil. Stagnation of rain and especially spring melt water is completely unacceptable for them.

Roses grow best on fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loams. Heavy clay and light sandy soils are not suitable for them. Before planting roses, sand is first added to the clay soils of the garden, and clay is added to sandy soils. It is better to take clay from the upper layers of the soil and, before introducing it into the soil, it is advisable to keep the clay in piles or heaps for at least 12 months. In order for the clay to quickly acquire a crumbly structure and the desired chemical composition, it is mixed with lime, and in the warm and dry season it is shoveled several times.

The addition of clay or sand regulates only the air permeability and water-holding capacity of the soil. Sufficiently fertile, humus-rich soils are needed to grow strong, highly ornamental climbing roses. Improve soil fertility by adding humus and humus to them. Together with organic fertilizers, long-acting phosphorus fertilizers (for example, bone meal) and pure cultures of soil bacteria that process substances inaccessible to plant nutrition into assimilable compounds (for example, phosphorobacterin) are introduced into the soil.

At the place of planting roses, the upper, soddy layer of soil is removed and folded aside. The podzol is removed from the site or used to make permanent tracks. The infertile soil layer is used to level the site. Sand or clay, lime, humus, humus, peat and phosphate fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the exposed subsoil. Deep digging is carried out on the site. Do it at the end of summer.

In the spring of next year, the soil is loosened. And if the site is characterized by heavy, clay soils, then it is dug up again so that the improving additives are evenly distributed in the subsoil. The top layer of soil is returned to the leveled place for planting roses, adding fertilizer, sand or clay to it. After digging to a depth of 20-25 cm, the area is loosened.

In the conditions of amateur gardening, folk methods and signs are used to determine the amount and nature of soil-improving additives. The mechanical composition of the soil is determined by rolling it between the palms. The acidity of the soil of the site is determined by the weeds growing on it.

The most complete nutrients are absorbed by roses in neutral soils (pH 6.5). Add lime to acidic soil, and high-moor peat to alkaline soil.

Preparing a climbing rose seedling for planting

Preparing a seedling before planting in the spring consists in a thorough examination of the root system - you need to get rid of broken and rotten roots, and then carry out a series of manipulations:

• treat sections of individual parts of the rhizome with crushed charcoal, which will protect the planting from decay of the resulting wounds;
• make the so-called talker with your own hands: mix clay, fresh manure (a tenth of the total composition) with 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin, pour 0.5 l. water and measure out 9.5 liters. received talker;
• in the absence of cow manure, add 1 tablet of heteroauxin with the calculation of sufficiency per 10 liters. solution.

Planting seedlings in the spring involves pruning the buds, on strong stems leave 2 formed buds each, on weak stems, the presence of one is enough.

How to plant climbing roses in spring correctly? First you need to prepare a hole for the seedling, the depth of which should reach approximately 60-65 centimeters. After that, we proceed to a thorough study and processing of seedlings. This procedure is performed as follows:

• we cut off the roots that were damaged during transportation;
• we shorten too long roots. Otherwise, they may break already in the hole and begin to rot;
• we soak the seedlings in specially designed nutrient solutions. But do not get carried away so as not to overfeed the plant;
• the seedling is very carefully (so as not to break the roots) descends into the soil by about 8 centimeters. After that, it can be carefully buried, for which half of the extracted soil is enough.

When planting climbing roses in spring, it should be borne in mind that plants will develop more slowly than when planting in autumn. The average developmental delay is 10-14 days. In addition, roses will require much more care and attention.

Planting climbing roses in the spring in the ground will not require the preparation of large areas. Under favorable conditions, climbing roses develop rapidly. The bushes will delight in flowering next year if roses were planted in the spring in the ground. When using these colors as a decorative component of the structure, planting is carried out, stepping back 0.5 m from it. The layout of climbing roses is 50 x 50 cm. A fertile earthen mixture with the addition of humus is poured into the bottom of the dug hole. Do I need to water the plant when planting it in the spring? Many experienced flower growers are inclined to a negative answer, which is due to the high moisture content in the soil after the snow melts. But if the winter was dry, it is better to water the roses. After planting, water abundantly and shorten the branches to 20 cm. The roots of the plant should be free in the hole. They are sprinkled with a nutritious soil mixture, the soil is rammed. The last stage of planting a rose in the spring is its hilling. Young seedlings of the plant are very sensitive to high temperatures and direct sunlight, so it is better to sprinkle them with earth to a height of about 25 centimeters. From above, the bush is covered with spunbond, needles or some translucent materials. Every day, the shelter is lifted for a few minutes so that the seedlings harden. Gradually, the ventilation time is increased, and after the threat of frost has passed, it is completely removed.

After removing the shelter, the seedlings are mulched with any material at hand. This will protect the plants from moisture loss and weed growth.

When trellis growing, the pit is placed at a distance of 20 cm from it. Planting climbing roses in the spring in the ground is carried out in such a way that the grafting site is located 5 cm below the level of the flower bed. The root system of the seedling is placed obliquely to the support. When arranging a trellis near the house, the distance from the wall is at least 10 cm. This will ensure sufficient air flow, as well as more comfortable care for the plant.

When planting bushes, retreat between them in a furrow from 0.5 to 1 m, between the rows you need to lay at least 1 m. If you plan to decorate a gazebo or fence with a climbing rose, measure 0.35-0.5 m from the blind area.

Planting a rose is not a particularly troublesome business. But at the same time, do not lose sight of a few important rules. The main one is don't rush!