Summer residents are often faced with wilting of plants for no apparent reason. Why do cucumbers wither in a greenhouse, what to do? at the same time, to save the plants and get a harvest? Let's try to understand the causes of this disease.
"Country Hobbies"
Reasons why a cucumber bush withers
They come in different origins and, naturally, the measures to save cucumber plantings are varied.
Violation of agricultural technology
The reason may be. Lack of water negatively affects the appearance of the entire plant: the leaves first wither and then dry out. Watering on a sunny day should be careful, as water getting on the leaves can cause burns, and in cold weather, water contributes to the appearance of powdery mildew.
Not worth it plant tomatoes and cucumbers into one greenhouse - they have a different attitude to air humidity. While creating ideal conditions for tomatoes, cucumbers will suffer from leaf wilting and reduced fruiting.
Deteriorates the external condition of cucumbers violation of fertilizer dosage: Underfeeding and overfeeding of plants should not be allowed. To feed a cucumber plantation, it is better to use special fertilizers, being sure to follow the dose. It is always better to apply less fertilizer than to overfeed the plants. If some of the solution gets on the leaves, then you need to follow it with a watering can and wash off the entire solution from the green mass.
Cucumber is a delicate crop and reacts quickly to any external factors. Hit herbicide on the leaves causes them to wilt. Therefore, such work must be done carefully and carefully.
Dense planting will require a lot of moisture and nutrition. And therefore, the stronger cucumber bushes will begin to oppress the weaker ones, which first wither and then die. It is considered optimal to plant 3-4 cucumber bushes per square meter.
Improper watering also causes plant wilting. It is better to water less often, but with plenty of water to thoroughly wet the soil. With weak watering, only a small top layer of soil is wetted, which quickly dries out in hot weather and the root system suffers from a lack of moisture, which will certainly affect the condition of the plant and its productivity.
Sudden weather change may also cause cucumbers to wilt. This southern plant has roots in the form of hairs that are not adapted to low soil temperatures.
watering cucumbers
Pests and diseases of cucumbers
They can also cause the cucumber plant to wilt. And this reason must be actively combated, since you can quickly lose not only the harvest, but also the plants themselves.
Diseases
Fusarium wilt is a fungal disease that is often found in greenhouses. Symptoms of this disease: wilted top and rotting stem.
White rot occurs when planting is thickened and there is a sudden change in temperature. The leaf becomes limp, brown spots appear on the root collar.
Root rot affects the roots, is a dangerous disease of cucumbers and can destroy the entire plant. If symptoms of the disease are detected, you can sprinkle the lash of the diseased bush with earth. The lash will give roots and even if the plant dies, it will survive.
In addition, diseases may appear in the greenhouse: olive spot, cladosporiosis, downy mildew. All diseased leaves should be removed to stop the spread of disease. A solution of chalk and potassium permanganate helps to cope with these diseases quite effectively.
If signs of any diseases are detected, the plants should be treated with Topaz, Fitosporin-M, Hom.
If there is a major disease in the cucumber plantation in the fall, you need to disinfect the soil in order to completely destroy the source of the disease. Fungi in the soil are destroyed with Bordeaux mixture.
Pests
Small spider mite It is impossible to see, but yellow dots appear on the leaf blade, and a web can be seen at the bottom of the leaf. Spider mites usually appear during hot, dry times. Therefore, plantings are sprayed for prevention. In case of significant damage, the plantation is sprayed with chemicals Karbofos and Fitoverm. Among the folk remedies, infusion of onion peels helps a lot. Plant dill next to the cucumbers, which ladybugs love - they are good at destroying ticks.
The most common pest is aphid. It settles on the underside of the leaf in whole colonies, sucks the juices from the leaf, which withers, the whole plant looks depressed. Prevention against aphids is to remove plant debris from the greenhouse where their larvae like to settle. If aphids are found in a greenhouse, you need to treat the plantings with an infusion of potato or tomato tops, yarrow, celandine, or the chemicals Iskra, Fitoverm, Aktaru.
Slugs They like to live in greenhouses where there is high humidity. During the daytime they hide under stems and leaves. They are collected by hand, the drug “Thunderstorm” is very effective. Among the folk remedies, a solution of ammonia (4 tablespoons per 2 liters of water) works well against slugs; the plantings are treated at dusk.
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I invite you to the group on Subscribe.ru for summer residents and gardeners: “Country hobbies” Everything about country life: dacha, garden, vegetable garden, flowers, relaxation, fishing, hunting, tourism, natureWhy do cucumbers die in a greenhouse? This question worries many summer residents, not only beginners, but also experienced ones. This problem can arise even when the plant has begun to grow well and produce a large number of fruits. The thing is that growing cucumbers, like any other cultivated plants, requires a special approach, and this applies to each variety of this vegetable. In addition, there are various kinds of pests and diseases that attack the root system of the plant, which causes the death of its fruits and the plant as a whole.
However, the most common cause of death of cucumber seedlings is improper temperature control in the greenhouse itself, as a result of which the plants wither and soon die. Therefore, before you start growing cucumbers, you need to properly equip the greenhouse itself in order to avoid further troubles caused by an inappropriate microclimate in it.
What needs to be done for the normal development of cucumber seedlings? First of all, you need to start with tillage. Properly cultivated soil is the first and most important basis for the quality of the future harvest. The soil in the greenhouse needs to be cleared of weeds and dug up, while fertilizing it. This procedure is necessary in order to enrich the soil with microelements that will nourish the planted seedlings, as a result of which the cucumbers will bear fruit well. After this, you can fumigate the soil, which is a complete disinfection of the space in the greenhouse.
This action will help get rid of any harmful microorganisms that can adversely affect the development of cucumbers and their further fruitfulness. To carry out disinfection, kerosene and lump sulfur need to be poured into an iron container and these substances should be set on fire. At the same time, in order to achieve the desired effect, all cracks and holes in the greenhouse must be well sealed. In addition, good fruiting of cucumbers depends on the optimal temperature that must be maintained in the greenhouse, and on the lighting of the greenhouse itself. These parameters are selected individually for each variety of a given vegetable.
Diseases of cucumbers in a greenhouse (video)
Pests and diseases that adversely affect the plant
The most common types of pests on cucumbers include melon aphid and greenhouse whitefly. They are capable of eating away the root system of the plant and its leaves.
These pests can be controlled using various chemicals and more affordable folk methods.
For example, get rid of annoying whiteflies You can use a piece of thick cardboard or plywood, painted yellow, which is then lubricated with a sticky substance. The thing is that this pest is attracted to the color yellow, as a result of which they fall into a trap. You can get rid of aphids using a special garlic solution, which is sprayed on the affected plant.
The diseases that most often affect cucumbers include peronosporosis (downy mildew), various rots of the root system, powdery mildew and gray rot. Downy mildew in most cases is observed in cucumbers already during fruit ripening. The disease manifests itself in the form of small green spots that appear on the leaves of the plant. Over time, the spots increase significantly and the leaves turn brown, as a result of which the plant stops bearing fruit and dries out. The occurrence of downy mildew is associated with the presence of fungal organisms in the soil, which multiply intensively when cucumbers are watered with cool water and too much air humidity is required in the greenhouse.
Rot of the root system of cucumbers occurs due to the fact that the plant is watered with water at too low a temperature. Rot can also appear when cucumber seedlings are planted incorrectly, in particular when they are buried too deeply in the soil. This disease is characterized by yellowing and cracking of the plant stem, as well as premature drying of the leaves.
Powdery mildew is a disease that affects cucumber leaves. As a result, round white spots form on their surface. After some time, they merge and enlarge, after which the leaves acquire a yellow or light tint, which leads to the death of the plant.
gray rot is a disease that causes gray spots on the leaves of cucumbers and their stems. The disease occurs as a result of severe freezing of the soil at night and insufficient ventilation of the greenhouse.
Common varieties of greenhouse cucumbers
Among the variety of cucumber varieties for greenhouses, the early varieties of this plant are considered to be the most productive, which also include various cucumber hybrids. These include:
- Suomi F1. It is well resistant to cold climates and various diseases. In addition, ripe fruits of this variety cannot outgrow, since their growth is limited.
- Sarov F1. This variety does well in greenhouses with insufficient light and low temperatures.
- Hybrid Valaam. It is distinguished by its cold resistance and can be grown in greenhouses in the northern regions. The variety has limited fruit growth and a fairly significant fruiting period, which ends with the onset of severe frosts.
In addition to greenhouse cucumbers, which have regular sizes, there are also varieties such as gherkins. These hybrid varieties differ from others in the small size of their fruits. The most common ones are Conrad, Alex, Moth and Enchanter.
Cucumbers: signs of disease (video)
Cucumbers, like any other plant, require proper care and compliance with a lot of nuances necessary for the proper development of its fruits, from the processing and planting of seedlings to the climate in the greenhouse and the presence of various pests.
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Every summer resident grows cucumbers, and it doesn’t matter whether in a greenhouse or open ground. It is more important to understand agricultural technology and not make mistakes, otherwise there will be no harvest either in the beds or in the greenhouse. Therefore, today we decided to study the main problems and mistakes when growing cucumbers.
Planting, gartering, watering and covering are far from the main points in growing cucumbers, although they are very serious. It is necessary to understand all the smallest details and favorable factors, and only then is a good harvest possible, in which each cucumber will be one to one. If you make serious mistakes, which we will talk about later, the color and ovary will dry out and crumble, and the fruits will turn yellow, lose shape, and disappear on the stem.
All problems when growing cucumbers can be prevented or solved in time, and only in this case is it possible that your efforts will not be in vain.
What difficulties might we encounter?
We would like to say right away that the signs of problems, as well as the problems themselves, in fact, can vary depending on the geographical location, climate, topography of the site, general temperature and its changes, quality and composition of the soil, as well as dozens of other factors and, naturally, your personal attitude towards cultivated plants. But let’s hope that the list of tips collected by our experts will help you at least partially solve the problems and significantly increase your yield, while at the same time bringing its quality to the required level!
Frequent cultural diseases
One of the reasons for frequent diseases of cucumbers is thick planting. In this case, the plants cannot be properly processed, interfere with each other’s development, are not ventilated, and trap many infections in the dense greenery that should have been ventilated. In addition, a very dense planting dies faster, since even if a disease or pests of cucumbers are detected on time (at least quickly), they have already spread to many plants in the garden bed or greenhouse.
It should be remembered that depending on the variety, there should be 2-4 plants per square meter of planting. We try to take up as much land as possible, planting cucumbers every 10-15 cm in a row, which is very wrong and leads to problems.
Insect attacks on cucumbers
Colonies of pests can ruin the crop in no time. Readers of the site who follow our news through subscription and have studied material about spider mites and other pests are well aware of this. But serious damage is also possible due to the vital activity of the cucumber mosquito and the sprout fly.
These insects can reproduce well in organic matter that fertilizes green beds. And most often they appear when fertilizers are poorly incorporated into the soil. Settling on organic fertilizers, insects lay eggs, from which larvae and adult insects develop, which then destroy the bushes and fruits themselves. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly follow agricultural technology and be sure to care for cucumbers in exactly the way that experts indicate.
Yellowing of the leaf
Often cucumbers are attacked by spider mites, which we remind you about again, since the insect can very quickly destroy plantings and crops. But the manifestation here is specific, we want to pay attention to the yellowing of the leaf in spots, as if acid had dripped onto it.
Such damage can cause drying out and lethargy, and therefore improper development of the fetus itself. What's most interesting is the cause of the problem. It turns out that the culprit may be the covering that we use at the very beginning of growing cucumbers, when the bushes are in the seedling stage. Further, film cover is used to limit sunlight in hot summers, which can burn the green mass. And it is the film material that causes such burns.
We all know that cucumbers should not be watered in the heat, much less irrigated by sprinkling, as burns on the leaves are possible. But at the same time, we create problems on our own by stretching the film over the beds. By watering in the evening, we contribute to the appearance of condensation, which, collecting in drops, falls down onto the leaves. Water on the leaves and the morning sun are the cause of burns.
Poor growth of young seedlings
The reason for this is simple - the plants are crowded with stronger plants, as well as their root systems. Therefore, you should promptly remove weeds around and inside the garden bed, thereby freeing up the soil and helping to increase the consumption of nutrients from the soil, which are no longer spent on feeding weeds. In addition, planting without weeds is less dense, and therefore better ventilated and less susceptible to various diseases!
Mixed harvest
The problem can occur for many reasons, but one of the simplest is uneven harvesting. You shouldn’t wait a week to pick a bucket of cucumbers at once, you shouldn’t even wait two, because the crop loves quick harvesting, even every day. If you leave cucumbers on the bush, this will significantly reduce the rate of development of young ovaries, which will certainly affect the end result.
Harvest every day, every other day or two, but not less often, especially at the moment when active fruiting has begun!
There are a lot of similar problems, and it is simply physically impossible to describe each of them in detail. Therefore, we have focused on the most common ones, and then we want to move on to the mistakes of summer residents, due to which these problems, as well as many others, arise.
Typical mistakes when growing cucumbers in the country
We will present a little more errors, since it would be much more correct to study them and eliminate them as much as possible!
Improper ventilation of beds
Under no circumstances should you allow drafts or sudden changes in temperature in the greenhouse if you decide to ventilate the cucumbers. This should be done only when the temperature exceeds +30°C, and very carefully, opening the greenhouse on each side one by one.
Excessive watering
Cucumbers love water, but only in moderate quantities at all times. You shouldn’t dry the soil, but you also shouldn’t overwater it, because if we are talking about a greenhouse, then constant stagnation of moisture in the soil is a direct path to rot and various pests, which will be too difficult to remove from this environment!
Inept formation of bushes
If you leave planting to your own devices, this is exactly what you will get – weak and very insignificant. Therefore, try not only to water and ventilate, tie up and carefully feed the plants, but also to shape them.
Be sure to remove excess shoots by pinching them to reduce the density of the bush. This is especially necessary at first, and in the lower part of the bush. Remove axillary shoots several sheets from the soil surface, do this in the morning, while the sun is not so high.
Landing in one place
If cucumbers produce a good harvest, this is not a reason to grow them in one place for decades. No, of course, this is possible, and we will only be glad if good and rich soil can saturate the plants with nutrients. But often the soil accumulates not only positive, but also negative factors - infections, insect larvae, and so on. And, even if in the first few years the cucumbers did not get sick, then later they can be completely destroyed in the shortest possible time. Try to change the location at least once every few years.
Planting according to the calendar
The lunar calendar, holiday calendar, and other dates are not at all a reason to rely on them, because planting plants has a number of requirements, and this also applies to cucumbers. It is necessary to choose the optimal moment according to the weather, wait for the soil to warm up, and calculate the planting time so that the seedlings are not damaged by night frosts. Of course, sometimes, say, seeds planted on Maundy Thursday give excellent seedlings, but we do not recommend being tied to this date!
Planting very mature seedlings
Cucumbers planted by seedlings often show good results, but for this you do not need to overexpose the seedlings, grow them up to half a meter and immediately transfer them to open ground. There may be two negative factors at once - the seedlings will not support their weight during transplantation and are injured, or the seedlings from the apartment (greenhouse) will not have time to adapt, will not harden and will simply disappear at the first draft or frost.
Planting seeds in poor soil
Hoping for the usual chance, many summer residents practice planting in simple, poor soil. At the same time, they treat the seeds with growth stimulants, perform stratification, or otherwise prepare them for a better harvest in the future. But all this is a waste of time if cucumbers are planted in soil that is not fertilized with organic matter. If you do not have the opportunity to use organic fertilizers, look at our articles on compost and other fertilizers for the garden, with their help you can find a way out of the situation.
"Equal" to an ecological product
Why not? You always want to eat something tasty and healthy, but it won’t always grow without proper processing. Many infections, pests and diseases can be killed only by chemical means, and therefore you should either use very strong varieties and preach ideal agricultural practices, or treat the plantings as standard if you choose modern fast-growing hybrids.
Ignoring bush diseases
The leaves turned yellow - no big deal, one bush disappeared - no problem, because there are more... and so on. This is a very wrong opinion, because signs of plant disease in the garden are an alarm bell that requires immediate action. In general, triple treatment, namely preventive treatment, is considered correct, even if only minor signs of cucumber disease have appeared. Treat the plants according to the first leaves, just before flowering or 10 days after the first treatment, as well as two weeks before the green leaves appear.
One-time fertilizer
And again to fertilizers. We said earlier that without organic matter, growing this crop is simply unrealistic. Organic matter gradually releases nutrients and removes harmful salts from the soil. The same goes for mineral fertilizers, which cucumbers love no less. But they love it gradually and in small quantities. Therefore, you can feed the plants once every ten days by pouring a bucket of water with mineral fertilizers per square meter (1 tablespoon of complex fertilizer per 10 liters of water).
Waiting for large cucumbers
Under no circumstances should you collect large fruits, or rather, constantly wait for them. It turns out that the cucumber is a smart plant that works not for harvest, but for seeds. Therefore, if you are waiting for a large fruit on a bush, when it appears, the growth of the rest simply stops. Don't let the plant get too close to its target and you'll get a much bigger harvest!
More plants in the garden means more harvest!
This is generally a wrong principle, since each crop variety has a recommended planting density. In general, it is correct to grow only a few bushes per square meter (although at our dachas we plant seeds every 15-20 cm). See the planting instructions for each new variety and be sure to follow the recommendations!
This list of typical errors is also not complete, and many of them may be regional and directly dependent on the variety and other factors. Therefore, just try to follow agricultural practices, love the plants and provide them with the best care. It is in this case that a high-quality harvest is possible.
Mistakes and problems in growing cucumbers Even the most experienced pros have them, so don’t be upset if for the second or third year in a row you fail to reach your previously set goals. Every day you gain certain experience and learn with us, and therefore soon we will have a really serious harvest of juicy and crispy cucumbers.
Learning to grow cucumbers correctly (video)
On the veins of grown true leaves;
Diseases of cucumber seedlings, photo of leaves:
Yellow veins of leaves
The appearance of yellowness on the veins of leaves is associated with infection of the plant, The virus is transmitted by tobacco. After 30-35 minutes of feeding on an infected plant, an adult whitefly becomes a carrier of the virus.
The causative agent of the virus most often persists in plants of the pumpkin family. With subsequent feedings of the pest, the infection is transmitted to healthy plants.
Without the manifestation of external symptoms, varieties and hybrids of cucumbers that are pollinated are affected. But parthenocarpic (self-pollinating) varieties are most severely affected. It manifests itself in the form of a sharp decrease in yield, the period of active fruiting is shortened. Virus infection can lead to plant death.
Virus protection
Effective measures there is no protection. Infection is prevented by infection-resistant hybrids. For example, Gazal F1, Rhythm F1.
Thinning of the stem
Upon inspection, you found laid down seedlings. Examine the plant in more detail. If you find thinning of the stems in the form of constrictions of the stem, this is a fungal infection - root rot of cucumbers, most often caused by a violation of the growing conditions most favorable for seedlings. Why do cucumber seedlings fall:
- Frequent excess mineral fertilizers or mullein;
- Sudden changes in daily temperature;
- Abundant or watering with cold water.
These reasons cause wateriness and thinning of the seedling stem under the cotyledon leaves, followed by lodging of the seedlings. The culprit of the damage is a fungus - the causative agent of root rot of cucumbers.
Are cucumber seedlings falling? What to do?
Do not plant plants in one place every year. The fungus can survive in the soil. Change the soil or treat the soil before planting by watering with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, heated to a temperature of 65-70 degrees.
The control measure is reduction in irrigation volume, especially during periods of sharp changes in daily temperatures. Limit the amount of fertilizer you apply. Water the seedlings with warm water in the evening.
It is recommended to remove the soil from the affected stems and sprinkle ash, clean sand, and peat around the stem.
Curling leaves
Wilting with leaf curling can occur for a fairly simple reason, namely lack of moisture for normal development. As a plant grows, its leaves begin to evaporate more moisture from their surface than they receive from the roots.
In this case, curling the leaves will be an elementary protection. The plant tries to reduce the leaf area from which evaporation occurs. A simple increase in the volume of water for irrigation will relieve your seedlings from this disease.
Upon inspection, you find moderately moist soil, but curled plant leaves. This is how a seedling can react to lack of microelements in the soil. First of all, these are phosphorus, sulfur, magnesium. To eliminate the cause, watering combined with fertilizing with mineral fertilizer containing a set of microelements necessary for development will be sufficient.
In case of wilting and if the leaves of cucumber seedlings curl after transferring the plants to the ridges you can carry out foliar feeding.
Compositions for such fertilizers can be purchased at specialized gardening centers, or prepared with your own hands.
To do this, just dissolve 150 grams of urea in a bucket of water. Spray the leaves of the plant with the prepared solution. This feeding promotes faster absorption of essential microelements through the leaves of planted seedlings.
Developmental delay without noticeable reasons
These symptoms most often appear due to the death of the seedling root, although signs of damage can be seen at any stage of plant development. The most likely cause is watering with cold water or rapid cooling of the box with watered seedlings.
Seedlings lag behind in growth and development, seedlings do not grow. Subsequently, complete death of the plant is observed.
There are no preventive measures for this disease. Only re-planting seeds for seedlings will help if the planting time has not yet been missed.
Why do cucumber seedlings wither?
Plant damage can be determined visually by the changed color and shape of the leaves of the seedlings. The appearance of " honey dew"is the excretions of pests. These secretions are an excellent breeding ground for fungi.
It is necessary to inspect the seedlings to identify the pest. If aphids appear, then treatment with Decis or Inta-vir will help subject to strict adherence to the instructions on the packaging of the insecticide. .
Spider mite
The pest specimens are so small that It is impossible to determine tick damage upon examination. It is determined when the leaves show signs of wilting. With a severe degree of damage, whitish spots are visible, on the surface of which a coating of cobwebs can be seen.
Prevention measures
In order to prevent damage to seedlings by pests, the following measures should be taken:
- Free planting of seeds, in which contact of leaves with each other is excluded;
- Maintaining daily temperatures– daytime 22-24, night 16-18 degrees Celsius;
- Watering with water at room temperature.
Carefully select disease-resistant cucumber varieties.
Also follow the norms of agricultural technology and pest prevention.
All these measures will allow you to grow healthy seedlings, which will be the key to your harvest.
If, nevertheless, your plants are sick, then in the article we described what treatment of cucumber seedlings against diseases should be carried out?
We are replanting cucumbers for the third time. They sprout together, but when the first true leaf appears, they immediately turn yellow and die. They grow in a greenhouse.
Linen. region Karelian Isthmus.1 year ago by xelga xelga
1 answer
There may be root rot if the soil is cold and you water with cold water. Try growing it in cups, and transplant it with a clod of soil into the ground when the ground warms up.
You can also water the soil and the plants themselves at the root with special bacteria - trichoderma, which kills all this rot. The drug is called phytodermin and is available in garden stores.
You can also make a hole and fill it with good healthy soil and plant the cucumbers there. It happens that pests damage the roots (Khrushchev, mole cricket). Then I make cylinders 10-12 centimeters high from a plastic mesh and dig them into the ground, and plant the seeds or seedlings there. The roots crawl through the mesh and when the plants get stronger, the pests are no longer scary.1 year ago from Osi Ste
Related questions
Cucumber seedlings are falling. Constrictions on a cucumber stem
If you notice that young cucumber shoots suddenly fall off, and in older plants, the stem under the leaves has become very thin, in the form of a constriction. What is it and how to preserve cucumber plants? The culprit is a fungal disease - root rot of cucumbers.
Root rot, which often occurs under unfavorable growing conditions for cucumbers. The cause of the disease may be:
- watering with cold water, frequent feeding of plants with mullein and mineral fertilizers, abundant and frequent watering, sharp fluctuations in day and night temperatures.
All this contributes to the proliferation of pathogenic soil fungi and their colonization of roots, tissues of the root collar and stem. In adult cucumber plants, the roots become black, “soaked,” and a brown ring-shaped constriction forms on the stem.
Blockage of blood vessels occurs, nutrients and water do not enter the plant and it dies. In young shoots (seedlings) of cucumbers, the subcotyledonous part of the stem becomes watery and thin; affected plants suddenly die.
In older plants (2-3 true leaves), a constriction forms under the leaves. Such seedlings are stunted in growth, and the leaves wither in sunny weather. But the infection mainly manifests itself in adult plants during the fruiting period of the cucumber.
How to deal with cucumber root rot
If you find signs of disease on cucumber plants, reduce watering, especially during periods of sharp temperature fluctuations (night and day), reduce feeding with mullein, water with heated water (20-24 degrees) in the morning or after 16, no later than 18 hours. Water the cucumbers not under the stem, but around the plant and throughout the garden bed.
Rake the soil around 5 cm from the diseased stem. Treat the stem with ash, crushed coal, chalk or fluff lime, add clean peat or sand. Change the location of planting cucumbers in open ground annually.
Spray greenhouses and greenhouses (all buildings) with a 4% solution of bleach. Before sowing the seeds, pour the furrows with a hot (60-70 degrees) intense pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Adding a new comment
The mixture in the pots must be well watered. After this, we sow seeds (1-2 pieces) in the pots we prepared and place them on the windowsills. The required number of seedlings is three per 1 square meter. meter.
How to properly grow cucumber seedlings
To grow cucumber seedlings, a dry regime is required, i.e. Watering should be carried out rarely, while maintaining the water-air regime. During the seedling period, two samplings are made.
With the first, we remove plants in the cotyledon phase, which appeared a little later after 5-10 days, which have ugly cotyledons. The second rejection when growing cucumbers from seedlings is carried out when the first true leaf appears, which is stunted in growth and has short internodes. Particular care must be taken to ensure that the plant does not stretch.
To prevent this from happening, we will need to periodically turn them towards the light. Mostly this work is carried out in the evening.
To prevent them from interfering with each other, the arrangement on the window sills is done in such a way that the leaves of the plants from two pots do not touch each other. In order to properly grow cucumber seedlings when planting them late in the greenhouse soil, you need to have a large feeding area when placing them. Before planting cucumber seedlings, it is necessary to water them abundantly so that the soil in the pot is completely wet.
After which comes feeding with a solution of mineral fertilizers. When planting, the age of cucumber seedlings should be at least 20-25 days. When we ascertain that cucumber seedlings have stretched out, we often do not know for what exact reason this happened.
The most likely cause may be a failure in light and temperature conditions. In order to avoid stretching, it is recommended to provide round-the-clock illumination for three days after sprouting, and reduce the temperature to 16 degrees.
If the cucumber seedlings are retracted, they should be deepened when planting. Cucumber seedlings can only be planted in heated and warm soil after warm weather sets in.
If the seedlings are long and have up to six leaves, then the lower pair should be removed and the plant should be planted to the depth of the removed leaves. Before planting, seedlings need to be examined for sprouts that are too small; those with small leaves and thin stems should be discarded; most likely, such plants will die during transplantation, and if not, they will get sick.
The best and most reliable way to grow cucumbers is through seedlings; - seedlings when transplanted must have at least three true leaves and should only be replanted with a clod of “native” soil; - to be on the safe side, it is better to sow 20% more seeds than needed; you need to plant seedlings thirty days after the start of cultivation, you cannot overgrow the seedlings; - planted sprouts in the ground must be well watered, every three days, the water should not be cold, but warm; - the bed for cucumbers must be warm and prepared; - seedlings can be planted only with established heat; - avoid dense planting; - when it gets cold, the seedlings need to be covered; - after three days, the plants need to be tied up; - over the entire summer period, you need to make up to five fertilizing; - when picking fruits, fruits that are too large take away from the plant a lot of nutrients that it and other, still small fruits need. Cucumbers come in ground and salad (long). You can grow cucumbers in open ground, but it is better in greenhouses.
Cucumber is a climbing plant that can be grown in a creeping form or on a trellis, which significantly increases the yield. Cucumber is a very moisture-loving and heat-loving plant. Ideally, it is better to grow cucumbers in different greenhouses, because Cucumbers prefer moist heat, while tomatoes like dry air. If there is a lack of moisture in the soil and air, as well as at cold temperatures, greens may stop growing. ( discussion of the peculiarities of growing vegetable crops)
| Cucumber is demanding of light; when grown in open ground, it prefers places protected from the wind. | 6.4-7.0, acidic soils are not suitable for cucumbers, they are necessary. | Cucumbers love watering. With a lack of moisture, cucumber leaves darken and become brittle. When there is an excess of moisture, they are pale green. Cucumber needs watering especially during the period of mass formation of fruits. Do not rush with the first watering of cucumbers, then it will have a more powerful stem, short internodes and a good root system. Watering is carried out when the soil is partially dry, without delay. Water for irrigation should be at least +18°C. Due to lack of moisture and temperature fluctuations, cucumbers become bitter. |
Cucumber seeds can be sown dry, but it is better. | Cucumbers need to be planted in rich soil. In autumn or spring, 10-15 kg of organic fertilizers are applied to the garden bed (per 1 m?). Mineral fertilizers are scattered in the spring 3 weeks before sowing or planting cucumber seedlings in quantities of 10 g of nitrogen, 12 g of phosphorus, 12 g of potassium. The first feeding of cucumbers is carried out in the phase of 1-2 true leaves, but if the seedlings are well developed, you can feed them later. To do this, dilute 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of potassium salt and 10 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water. (for 10-15 plants). The second feeding of cucumbers is done 15 days after the first, doubling the amount of dissolved fertilizer. The solution should not get on the green parts of the plants. On poor soils and with weak growth of cucumbers (or instead of a second feeding), they can be fed with a solution or chicken manure with the addition. With a lack of nutrition, cucumbers shed all their ovaries, their leaves turn yellow. With a lack of nutrition, cucumber fruits are deformed: a pear-shaped cucumber indicates a lack of potassium in the soil, a narrowed, lightened, curved tip (like a beak) is a symptom of a lack of nitrogen, a cucumber with a “waist” - differences in day and night temperatures or watering with cold water, crooked, arched cucumbers may result from cross-pollination of different hybrids or the reason is irregular watering - “sometimes empty, sometimes thick.” |
The best predecessors for cucumber are green manure, cabbage, onion, tomato | You cannot plant a cucumber in the garden after plants from the pumpkin family. | Planting time and growing cucumber seedlings Seeds germinate at +12 - +15 °C. Shoots appear on the 6th day. Cucumbers can be grown through, then the seeds are sown in the substrate at the end of April, and the seedlings are planted in the garden at the end of May. The substrate for cucumber seedlings is made up of turf soil, humus, and mullein (2:7:1). You can use soil made from peat and mullein (4:1). Add 30 g of ammonium nitrate or urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 6 g of potassium salt, 30 g of lime to a bucket of soil mixture. Growing cucumbers in open ground is effective when planting them there with 25-30 day old seedlings (2-3 true leaves). In the first days For seedlings, a temperature of +20-25°C is required, then - +20-22°C during the day, 15-16°C at night. Cucumbers do not tolerate transplantation well, so it is better to plant them immediately in separate containers (10-12 cm in diameter) without intermediate ones. Cucumber seedlings are planted in the ground at the age of 25-30 days in the phase of 4-5 true leaves. 10 days after emergence, cucumber seedlings are fed with slurry (1:1) or bird droppings (1:10), adding 20 g of superphosphate per 1 bucket of solution. 1-2 days before planting cucumber seedlings in the ground, feed them by dissolving 15 g of urea, 40 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium fertilizers in 10 liters of water (consumption of 10 liters of solution per 2 m?). A week before planting the seedlings hardened, gradually accustoming them to sunlight, cool air and wind. To prevent diseases, it is useful to treat cucumber seedlings with epin or immunocytophyte. If you sow cucumber seeds directly into open ground, this must be done in early June, but to be safe, it is better to cover the seedlings with film or lutrasil. At a temperature of +20°C, flowering will occur 10 days later than at +27°C. At temperatures of 32 °C, cucumber development is inhibited. |
Scheme for planting cucumbers in open ground - 20x100 cm. The scheme for planting cucumbers in a greenhouse is 80x60 cm. The cucumber should grow in warm heated soil, so it is better to grow it at a height of 25 cm. It is better to orient the cucumber beds from east to west, making a slight slope to the south. |
Cucumber seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 cm. The germination of cucumber seeds is better after 2-4 years of storage. |
: anthracnose, powdery mildew, root rot, white rot, bacteriosis, cucumber mosaic, melon aphid, whiteflies, slugs, spider mites. They will help you cope with many problems, but it is better to choose cucumber varieties that are resistant to disease. Many plants in joint plantings are able to take care of their neighbors and them. |
Cucumbers need frequent watering, fertilizing and several hillings per season, which stimulates the formation of additional roots. Ground cucumbers are usually pinched above the 5-6th leaf to stimulate the formation of side vines. In greenhouse cucumbers, the lateral shoots above the first ovary are regularly pinched. To simplify care and improve temperature and water conditions, beds with cucumbers are better. It is necessary to remove excess fruits that have reached 5-7 cm so that no more than 10-18 cucumbers remain on one plant. Cucumbers love high humidity, for which they can be sprayed, but you should not overdo it in this matter because of the risk of various fungal diseases. When growing cucumbers in greenhouses, regular ventilation is necessary. To increase the yield and improve pollination, pollinating insects need to be attracted to the garden, for which the plant during flowering can be sprayed with a solution of sugar (100 g) and boric acid (2 g) per 1 liter of hot water. You can also hang jars of honey solution nearby (1 teaspoon per 1 glass of water). To avoid poisoning of pollinating insects during the flowering of the garden, do not spray with pesticides. |
Cucumber varieties for open ground: Altaisky early 166, Vyaznikovsky 37, Muromsky 36, Graceful, Cucumber varieties for growing in greenhouses: Magnificent, Manul, Aprelsky, Druzhny, MOVIR-1, Cucumber variety for balconies and growing on windowsills |
Cucumber seedlings
Detailed information in the article: http://svoitomaty.ru/rassada-ogurcov/ Cucumber seedlings. It's no secret that the most delicious cucumber is the first one, and preferably the one from May.
But in order for your dream to come true and make a salad from your own cucumbers in May, you will have to sow seedlings in early April.
Cucumber: preparing seeds, growing seedlings, transplanting seedlings into the ground
The cucumber we are all familiar with has its own growing secrets. Knowing them, it is not difficult to get good seedlings, and therefore a rich harvest.
Seed preparation
Rejection
Dip cucumber seeds in a 5% solution of table salt (3 g per 100 ml of water) at room temperature, stir and wait a few seconds. Empty and unusable ones will float, and good ones will sink to the bottom.
Disinfection
Place the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 100 ml of water) for half an hour, and then rinse with running water.
Germination
Before sowing seeds for seedlings, keep them in a damp cloth at a temperature of 25-30°C - usually 2-3 days are enough. Seeds are considered sprouted when the sprouts that appear reach 3-5 mm.
Hardening
It must be carried out if you will sow cucumber seeds directly into open ground. The method is very simple: put the treated swollen seeds in the refrigerator and leave for 36 hours.
Preparing seedlings
When sowing cucumbers for seedlings, do not forget that they do not tolerate transplantation well and it is better to take a separate pot for each plant. Buy a nutrient mixture for seedlings or prepare it from equal parts of turf soil, peat, humus and sawdust.
Plant one or two seeds in each container. Water with warm water and keep at a temperature of +25-28°C until shoots appear. To reduce moisture evaporation, cover the pots with film or glass and remove them when the seeds sprout.
If both seeds have sprouted in one pot, remove the weaker sprout, and do not pull it out, but cut it off - then you will not damage the roots of the remaining plant. Now for two or three days you need to lower the temperature to + 20 ° C, otherwise the subcotyledon* will stretch out, and the sprouts will wilt and wither. Try to provide the seedlings with additional lighting, especially on cloudy days, so that they will not stretch out. During cultivation, add soil once or twice.
Feed the seedlings twice with complex fertilizers specially designed for them. Water only with warm water (+22-28°C).
And make sure that there is no blowing from the windows - cucumbers do not like drafts. Seedlings can be planted if they are squat, 2-3 dark green leaves appear on each bush, and the roots occupy the entire or almost the entire pot. A week before When planting in the ground, harden the seedlings - lower the room temperature to +16-18°C. In good weather, you can take it out onto the balcony, but just do not place it in direct sunlight.
Transplanting seedlings
After 20-25 days, cucumber seedlings can be planted:
- April 15-20 - in greenhouses (both glass and film), May 10-15 - in open ground under film, June 2-10 - in open ground without shelter.
Prepare the holes in advance - water, add compost or rotted manure and lightly sprinkle with soil. Plant seedlings at a density of 3-4 tall plants or 5-6 bush-type plants per 1 square meter. Do not deepen the subcotyledon.
Water the planted plants again, sprinkle the wet areas around them with dry soil so that the water evaporates less and a crust does not form.
Feeding
As soon as it gets warm, the cucumbers need to be fed. It is better to choose foliar feeding - spray the leaves with a fertilizer solution.
In this case, the plant will begin to use nutrients faster than when watering. In the evening, spray the cucumbers with a solution of urea or ammonium nitrate (5 g/l). You can use a solution of liquid complex fertilizer or dissolve 5-7 g of Kemira-Lux in 1 liter of water. It must be remembered that foliar feeding should not be given in sunny weather: the solution dries out very quickly, its concentration increases and the leaves can get burned.
How to grow good cucumber seedlings at home?
Cucumbers are a popular pumpkin crop, an annual herbaceous plant, successfully grown both in open ground and in protected greenhouses. Cucumbers have been successfully grown by mankind for more than 6 thousand years; they come from the foothills of the Himalayas and are even mentioned in the Bible.
Despite its ancient origin, the cucumber is still part of numerous national cuisines and is successfully used to prepare many tasty and healthy dishes. Thanks to the dietary properties of this vegetable, it has many fans all over the world: it contains practically no proteins, carbohydrates and fats, but it contains a lot of potassium, essential for heart and kidney health, vitamins, including carotene, as well as a high percentage of microelements. Since ancient times, cucumber has been used as a medicinal plant and in cosmetics.
Growing cucumber seedlings
In order to properly grow cucumber seedlings at home, you must follow a number of rules:
- Selection of soil. Timing of planting cucumber seedlings. Light regime. Temperature regime. Planting cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse.
Properly grown and prepared for planting, cucumber seedlings should have at least a couple of true leaves, a strong short stem, a rich, juicy green color, and a well-developed root system (if the container for seedlings is transparent, it should be visible that the entire lump of earth is braided with roots). To grow seedlings For cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is necessary to select so-called parthenocarpic, or self-pollinating varieties that do not require the help of bees and other insects. If the seedlings are intended for open ground, bee-pollinated varieties of this vegetable are also suitable. The seeds offered for sale come in different qualities - regular, processed and granulated.
- Before planting, ordinary seeds must be calibrated and rejected: those that are known to be crippled and small are immediately selected, and the remaining ones are immersed in a strong solution of table salt - the seeds that float are unusable, but the good ones will sink to the bottom. They are selected, thoroughly washed with fresh water and dried or immediately processed for sowing. Treated seeds are prepared for planting; they are often recommended to be sown directly in open ground, since they are coated with a thin layer of antifungal and antimicrobial drugs. Granulated seeds, in addition to being protective, are also covered with a layer of nutrients that give a positive start to young, immature plants. Calibrated seeds need moisture and warmth to germinate. If these two conditions are not provided, even seeds that have already sprouted may die. Most often, they are wrapped in damp cloth and placed in a place with high temperature (about 30 degrees). Seeds that have formed a small root must be immediately planted in the ground.
An important question for obtaining good cucumber seedlings at home is when to plant cucumber seedlings. If this is done too early, the seedlings will overgrow, stretch out, and be pale and fragile.
Such seedlings are unlikely to produce a strong and healthy actively fruiting plant. If there is a delay in planting cucumber seedlings, the plants will be too small and weak, rooting in the soil will take a long time and the harvest will be late. The optimal time for planting cucumber seeds for seedlings is 20-25 days before the planned date of transplanting into the ground or greenhouse.
Choosing soil for cucumber seedlings
For active growth and high-quality fruiting, it is advisable to plant cucumber seeds for seedlings in soil that is similar in chemical and mechanical composition to the one in which the plant will live further. In this case, it will be easier for the roots of the young cucumber to germinate in the new environment and gain a foothold in it. As soon as the first cotyledon leaves appear, the cucumber seedlings must be placed in a cooler and brighter place.
This is necessary so that the section of the stem under the cotyledons does not stretch, forming weak, fragile seedlings. You need a lot of light, but direct sunlight should be avoided - they can burn tender and soft young leaves.
Water the seedlings with warm water, spray only in the first half of the day in non-sunny weather or in a place protected from direct sunlight. Cucumbers love moist air, but do not tolerate “leaving” at night with wet leaves - in such a situation, the plants are quickly affected by fungal diseases Temperature disturbances such as excessive heat and prolonged hypothermia of seedlings, especially in combination with high air and soil humidity, lead to “blackleg” disease. With this form of root rot, a black area appears at the base of the plant stem, near the ground, causing cell death and the death of the entire green part.
It will not be possible to save the affected plant; it must be urgently removed and destroyed along with the soil - it is the source of the disease. The remaining seedlings must be treated with fungicides. Optimal soil composition for cucumber seedlings:
- Sod or humus soil. Peat. Sand. Drainage (added to the bottom of the planting container to remove excess moisture). Expanded clay, vermiculite, sunflower husk and other adsorbent materials can be used as drainage.
Proper planting of cucumber seeds for seedlings
Prepared, hatched or treated seeds must be planted in individual containers, since the cucumber does not tolerate root damage during transplantation. Such seedlings take a long time to take root, get sick and may die.
Even an established plant will be much less productive than one grown in a cup and planted with a whole lump of soil. It is necessary to plant cucumber seedlings, 2 seeds per planting container, to guarantee the required number of plants. After pecking the seeds and unfolding the cotyledon leaves, the weaker plant must be removed, otherwise both cucumber seedlings will be weakened due to competition for water, light and nutrients.
The plant cannot be pulled out or pulled out - it can pull along the still weak roots of the remaining seedling and damage them. The easiest way is to carefully pinch or cut it off at ground level; the remaining part will gradually decompose without harming the second plant. Now the seedling will have space and will get a lot of nutrients.
What to do if cucumber seedlings have stretched out?
Stretched pale seedlings are a common occurrence when growing at home. To prevent this from happening, you need to change two modes of growing cucumber seedlings - temperature and light. The air temperature needs to be reduced to about 15 degrees, and the seedlings need to be additionally illuminated; if there is very little light, this will have to be done around the clock. On bright windows it is often enough to install side and top mirrors that will reflect sunlight onto the seedlings.
Sometimes it is enough to place the cups with cucumbers further away from each other, especially if they already have quite large leaves that shade each other. If the seedlings are very elongated, they can be helped when planting in the ground. Such a plant is carefully and carefully buried down to the cotyledons or gradually sprinkled with warm and loose soil.
The main condition for good survival of elongated seedlings is planting them in well-warmed, not waterlogged soil. If it had to be planted in cold soil, the ground around such a plant is covered with a dark perforated film, which accumulates solar heat and evaporates excess moisture.
In this case, the part of the stem buried in the ground will not rot, but will produce additional roots and support weak, elongated seedlings. After some time, it will be the same strong and green plant as all the others. Cucumber seedlings begin to bloom very quickly, even in the cups the first buds are already forming.
This does not negatively affect the quality of strong, healthy seedlings, but it can take away little strength from weakened ones. For such seedlings, it would be better to remove the first flowers and give the plant the opportunity to take root well in the soil, improve its health and form a strong bush. This plant will begin to bear fruit a little later than the others, but will quickly make up for lost time and be equal in yield to the rest of the seedlings.
Weak or elongated seedlings planted with buds or flowers will be sick for a long time, may shed buds and even ovaries, and as a result will produce much less fruit. Cucumber seedlings planted in open ground or in a greenhouse are much more demanding of air humidity than other crops, but not at all tolerates it if even a drop of water remains on the leaves overnight. In this case, the seedlings quickly become ill with powdery mildew, which can kill the entire plantation or the “population” of the greenhouse. Therefore, water the cucumbers in the morning with warm water, trying not to leave the leaves wet until the evening. If necessary, the plants are sprayed, but so that they have time to dry by night. Cucumbers are one of the most rewarding garden crops, which, with minimal care and attention, will thank their owners with a bountiful and tasty harvest.
