Climbing roses grow in almost every area, because they not only look beautiful, but can ennoble even the most unsightly corner, whether it's an outbuilding or an old fence. What can we say about the pavilions covered with fragrant multi-colored bushes - it is so pleasant to spend time in them on hot summer evenings, enjoying the view and inhaling the delicate smell.

Planting climbing roses and caring for them, in principle, do not require special, special knowledge, but some nuances still need to be taken into account.

Where and when is the best time to plant roses?

Roses love good lighting, then they grow quickly and bloom actively, so the southwestern part of the garden or courtyard will be the best place for a shrub. But it is desirable that the sun does not illuminate the site all day, since with a long stay under the rays, the leaves and inflorescences can dry out and lose color.

You can not plant plants on the corner of the house, where there are drafts, and in wetlands.

Seedlings take root equally well:

1. In the spring when planting in early May.
2. autumn — no later than October.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Purchased roses with an open root system should be placed in water for a day. Before planting, remove the leaves, buds below the grafting site, and also cut the roots and the seedling itself, leaving about 30 cm. Treat the cut sites on the roots with a solution of copper sulphate.

How to plant a climbing rose

Land for landing must be prepared in advance:

• 2 weeks before planting, add humus, peat and, if necessary, lime;
• dig up.

A landing hole should be dug 50 * 50 cm in size. When planting bushes in rows, it is necessary to leave a distance of at least 1.5 m between them and the same amount in the aisles. If weaving roses are planted near a fence or wall, you need to step back 50 cm. The same distance should be to the support when landing at the gazebo.

The grafting site of the rose should be deepened into the soil by 10 cm.

Set the seedling in the prepared planting hole, straighten the roots and half sprinkle with soil. Then water the rose well and add the required amount of soil. After planting, spud or overlay with spruce branches.

Further care of roses

Curly roses need timely care, namely:

1. Watering. It is enough to moisten the soil under the bush once a week, pouring at least 10 liters of water, and then loosen the soil or cover with mulch.
2. top dressing. If manure was applied during planting, roses will only need to be fertilized for the next year. To do this, in the spring, feed the roses twice with ammonium nitrate (after removing the shelter and again after 2 weeks). During the period of bud formation, apply complex mineral fertilizers, and before flowering - organic matter. When the rose fades, again apply complex preparations, and in the fall - and potassium salt.
3. pruning. In addition to sanitary pruning, for roses that bloom once a season, last year's shoots should be cut after flowering. But in varieties that differ in repeated flowering, such branches can be removed no earlier than after 3 years.
4. Tying up. In order for the bush to have a beautiful shape, it is necessary to establish a support and tie up the shoots in a timely manner, while placing them in the desired position.
5. Preparing for winter. Climbing roses in winter need extra. To do this, the bushes must be removed from the support and pinned to the ground.

Secrets of growing climbing roses, video

author Nedyalkov S.F., photo of the author

Roses require much more attention and care compared to other flowering horticultural crops.

In order to grow a lush and continuously flowering rose bush, in order to get a beautiful cut from it, you need to plant a seedling correctly, feed it in time, cover it for the winter, open it in a timely manner in the spring, prune correctly, carry out prevention and control pests and diseases.

Grafted and own-rooted climbing roses

Roses are grafted onto wild roses for only one purpose: to obtain and sell standard winter-hardy rose seedlings as quickly as possible (in 1-2 years) and cheaper. And own-rooted roses can be brought to such a standard only in 2-3 years, which is less profitable for producers due to the increase in the cost of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. In addition, own-rooted roses are obtained by cutting off a stalk with three buds, and only one bud is used to graft the wild rose, which is much more profitable for producers.

I want to tell in detail about my experience of planting, caring for and monitoring the development of self-rooted climbing roses.

Care for climbing roses grafted onto wild roses differs slightly and is as follows:

1. The planting depth of a climbing rose bush depends on the grafting site, which should be approximately 10 cm deep. Such a deep planting is necessary so that the plant gradually grows roots on the cultivated part of the bush. With a deep planting, conditions are created when the grafted climbing rose forms roots on cultivated shoots, and the wild rose, on which the rose was grafted, loses its purpose and gradually dies.

2. The complexity of caring for a plant grafted onto a wild rose lies in the fact that during the summer a climbing rose constantly needs to remove wild shoots - not just cut it out at soil level, but dig up wild shoots at the root collar of the rose and very carefully (without leaving "stumps ”), cut it with a sharp knife from the root collar. If you leave at least part of the rosehip shoot, then a mass of new shoots will grow from its dormant buds, which will further complicate their removal in the future.

3. Grafted climbing roses, planted in such a way that the place of grafting is above the soil surface, are short-lived compared to own-rooted roses, since wild rose is a deciduous plant, and cultivated roses are evergreen. During the growing season of grafted roses, such a discrepancy between scion and rootstock leads to a gradual depletion of the entire plant.

In addition, new buds and shoots on a climbing rose seedling are formed where it is well lit by the sun. If the grafting site is above the soil level, then new shoots are formed on the rootstock (rosehip) - abundant wild shoots appear. In dry hot weather, the cultivated part of the plant experiences a lack of water and nutrition, and therefore such a plant develops poorly.

And only with the correct planting of a climbing rose, when the root neck is significantly deepened, thanks to the roots formed on the cultivated shoots, the plant constantly receives water and nutrients in the right amount, and is no longer so dependent on the seasonality of the wild rose rootstock.

Planting time for climbing roses

In our climatic conditions, I prefer to plant climbing roses in autumn, from mid-September to mid-October. 10-12 days after the autumn planting, young small roots form in the plant, which harden before frost and winter well in an air-dry shelter. In the spring, these roses develop both the root and above-ground parts at the same time; a strong bush is quickly formed. Young roses bloom at the same time as old plants.

Climbing roses planted in the spring are usually 2 weeks behind in growth and require more attention.

If you decide to plant grafted roses in the spring, then the shoots of seedlings should be shortened by 2-3 buds.

But it is better to purchase own-rooted climbing roses, although in the first year they develop weaker than grafted roses.

It is imperative to find out which group each purchased rose variety belongs to. This will help you accurately choose a landing site, properly care for, cover and trim your pets in order to achieve maximum decorativeness and durability of the variety, good cutting. It is desirable to plant roses in groups, this is due to their shelter for the winter: the more air there is under the air-dry shelter, the more successful the overwintering will be.

Preparing the soil for planting roses

Roses are very sensitive to excess moisture in the soil. Stagnation of rain and especially spring melt water is completely unacceptable for them. Therefore, the site chosen for planting roses should have a slope (preferably in a southerly direction) sufficient for the rapid flow of water.

To determine the suitability of the site for planting roses, you should determine the depth of groundwater. The roots of climbing roses go to a depth of two meters, so it is advisable to work the soil to a depth of at least 1 meter.

For the normal development of roses, the permeability of the underlying soil is of great importance. Excess rainwater should not linger in the area where the roots are located, otherwise it may cause their death from a lack of oxygen. If groundwater comes close to the soil surface, then roses are planted on a hill (provided that the roots are protected from frost).

But they also do this: they dig a hole (not reaching the groundwater level), lay a large flat stone on its bottom, or concrete the bottom of the hole. Fertile soil is poured over this barrier. A climbing rose seedling is planted in a hole, shortening the taproots by half. Stone or concrete will not allow the taproots of roses to deepen, and then the roots of the plant will be located horizontally.

Roses grow best on fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loams. Heavy clay and light sandy soils are not suitable for them. Before planting roses, sand is first added to the clay soils of the garden, and clay is added to sandy soils. It is better to take clay from the upper layers of the soil and, before introducing it into the soil, it is advisable to keep the clay in piles or heaps for at least 12 months. In order for the clay to quickly acquire a crumbly structure and the desired chemical composition, it is mixed with lime, and in the warm and dry season it is shoveled several times.

The addition of clay or sand regulates only the air permeability and water-holding capacity of the soil. Sufficiently fertile, humus-rich soils are needed to grow strong, highly ornamental climbing roses. Improve soil fertility by adding humus and humus to them. Together with organic fertilizers, long-acting phosphorus fertilizers (for example, bone meal) and pure cultures of soil bacteria that process substances inaccessible to plant nutrition into assimilable compounds (for example, phosphorobacterin) are introduced into the soil.

At the place of planting roses, the upper, soddy layer of soil is removed and folded aside. The podzol is removed from the site or used to make permanent tracks. The infertile soil layer is used to level the site. Sand or clay, lime, humus, humus, peat and phosphate fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the exposed subsoil. Deep digging is carried out on the site. Do it at the end of summer.

In the spring of next year, the soil is loosened. And if the site is characterized by heavy, clay soils, then it is dug up again so that the improving additives are evenly distributed in the subsoil. The top layer of soil is returned to the leveled place for planting roses, adding fertilizer, sand or clay to it. After digging to a depth of 20-25 cm, the site is loosened.

In the conditions of amateur gardening, folk methods and signs are used to determine the amount and nature of soil-improving additives. The mechanical composition of the soil is determined by rolling it between the palms. The acidity of the soil of the site is determined by the weeds growing on it.

Storing own-rooted roses

Although autumn planting roses develop better than spring ones, in Belarus (except for the Brest region) roses are often planted in spring - in late April or early May, as soon as the ground thaws. Rose seedlings with a closed root system, growing in containers, can be transferred to the garden until July.

In own-rooted roses of the first year of cultivation, the roots do not withstand even slight freezing of the soil, therefore, seedlings acquired in autumn keep in a cold basement or on the windowsill in the apartment.

If roses are kept in pots on the windowsill, then until the end of January they are watered very carefully, in small doses. The soil should be slightly damp. After increasing the length of the day, the roses are fed, watered enough for the normal development of plants.

If roses begin to grow too intensively before planting in the ground, pinch off the tops of actively growing shoots to retard their growth.

But in the dry and warm air of the apartment, the spider mite multiplies intensively - this is the scourge of the rose in the house. In addition to spraying the plant, to increase humidity, prevent the appearance and flushing of pests, you should often wash it with water. The most harmless, but also the most time-consuming operation to save a rose from ticks is a shower. The maturation period of ticks at +20 degrees is 7 days. Here, during these seven days, treat the plant from the shower with cold water. Missed one day - start all over again.

In order to contain the reproduction of mites on roses in the house, it is recommended to carry out 4-6 treatments during the winter (each treatment consists of 2-3 sprays with an interval of 7 days) with a sulfur-tar emulsion. To commercially available chemicals against mites, these pests often develop resistance.

Sulfur-tar emulsion is prepared from sulfur-tar soap, which is sold in pharmacies to kill lice. A concentration of 1-2% is sufficient. Inspect the leaves that have recently appeared on the rose more often, since the mite first of all infects young tender leaves.

In open ground, due to sufficient moisture, the tick develops poorly, it has many enemies in the garden (predatory mites, lacewing, etc.).

Own-rooted roses bought in autumn can be dig in the ground in a high place. To do this, the shoots are added dropwise obliquely, leaving a pair of buds on the surface. Each plant must be well covered with a fallen leaf (preferably maple, it is less caked); under the leaves it is desirable to put any material that repels mice.

Any frame is placed on top of the shelter above the rose seedling (you can turn over a large box) that provides an air gap. It is undesirable to cover the frame from above only with lutrasil or in combination with a plastic film: lutrasil allows water to pass through, and if you also cover it with plastic film on top, it is quite possible that the roses will dry out already in February.
A small area of ​​traditional air-dry shelter in a harsh winter with a small amount of snow may not provide a reliable wintering of rose seedlings. In this case, to guarantee their preservation, it is better to cover the frame with fiberglass: there is practically no water
passes, "breathes", perfectly reflects the spring sun rays. I experienced such a shelter of roses this harsh winter, when the snows in the most
we did not have severe frosts - the roses overwintered beautifully.

If the rose bushes are arranged in rows, then it is desirable to cover a sufficiently large area at once (the shelter of roses can be combined with the shelter of other plants). A reliable and strong overall frame is knocked down, the entire structure is covered with a whole plastic film.

In the spring, you need to remove the film as early as possible. And if it is warm enough in winter or there is no snow, the film must be removed in early March. With the removal of the rest of the shelter, you can take your time: usually the period of complete shelter of roses is associated with the final thawing of the soil.

(In the second year of life, young self-rooted roses can be covered, as adult rose bushes cover, only by additionally insulating the bases of the bushes with a leaf. From the third year, strengthened roses are covered as usual).

planting roses

When planting climbing roses, the distance between the bushes is set depending on the desire to get a decorative effect, but not closer than one meter from each other.

Before planting, all broken and crushed roots of roses are cut off. Sections are carefully powdered with crushed charcoal. After pruning, the roots are dipped into a creamy mash composed of clay with an admixture of phosphorobacterin and the addition of 10% fresh mullein. Phosphorobacterin (3 tablets) is pre-dissolved in 500 ml of water and poured into 9.5 liters of mash.

In the absence of mullein, heteroauxin is added to the mash (1 tablet (100 mg) per 10 l).

In the absence of phosphorobacterin, 2-3 weeks after planting, the roses are fed with fresh mullein. But mullein does not fully replace phosphorobacterin, instead of which potassium humate can be used for watering and spraying plants (solution concentration: 2 g per 10 l of water in the first half of summer, and 4 g per 10 l of water in the second half of summer). Adult rose bushes are recommended to be sprayed 3-4 times during the growing season: after bud break, after flowering.

When using salts of humic acids, as well as other biostimulants in plants, all metabolic processes are activated, the digestibility of the main nutrients improves, respiration increases, chlorophyll is formed more intensively; plants better tolerate lack of moisture and low temperatures.

Humates have a positive effect on the agrochemical properties of the soil, activate the soil microflora and prevent the leaching of nutrients. Ready-made humates (for example, Potassium Humate, Humate + 7, Humate-80, Humate-Fertility and others) can be purchased at stores. They are obtained by treating peat or sapropel with alkali.

In nature, a similar product is obtained by the decomposition of organic residues (eg leaves, grass cuttings) with a large amount of moisture; the product is acidic and brown in color. You can get it yourself, for example, from chopped grass cut in September in an impenetrable container (polyethylene bag). In the spring, when thawing, several liters of natural stimulant will accumulate at the bottom.

When planting in spring, seedlings of climbing roses are pruned, leaving, regardless of the variety, two developed buds on strong shoots, and one developed bud on weak shoots. When planting roses in the autumn, they are pruned in the spring, after removing the winter shelter from them.

The depth of the planting pits when planting roses should be sufficient to freely accommodate the roots of seedlings in them, and the “root collar” of the climbing rose should be at least 10 cm deep into the soil. Such a deep planting makes it possible to well protect the “root collar” from the cold. At this depth, under artificial shelter, the soil temperature in winter does not fall below -2 degrees below zero. In addition, when planting own-rooted roses in a deep place, active additional roots form on the buried part of the shoots.

Having lowered the rose seedling into the planting hole, I straighten the roots and cover them with earth, leaving no voids between the roots. When the pit is filled to the level of the soil, I press the soil around the rose bush with my foot. I water my own-rooted roses after planting with a mixture of heteroauxin and phosphorobacterin (one tablet per 10 liters of water), and in their absence, with humates.

During spring planting, roses are covered with sheets of polyethylene film, under which a humid and warm microclimate is established. This contributes to the rapid restoration of the root system of plants and its good growth in the future. Two weeks after planting rose bushes, the film is gradually removed. If there are not many rose seedlings planted and they are small, then instead of a film, each bush can be covered with a plastic bottle, after cutting off its bottom and unscrewing the ventilation plug.

Planting and caring for a climbing rose in the open field must follow certain rules. Even the ugliest corner of the garden can be ennobled or made more romantic thanks to these flowers.

The climbing type of rose is considered a light-loving plant. If there is a lack of sunlight, then the development and growth of fresh stems slows down. As a result, flowering begins very late. But on the other hand, direct sunlight at noon will also harm: burns remain after them. You need to plant a rose so that during the hottest hours of the day it is on the penumbra side. The best option would be if the sun's rays heat the bush only in the morning. In the morning, the dew from the leaves quickly evaporates, so that fungal and viral diseases are not terrible for the plant.

Weaving roses are considered very fastidious. They do not survive drafts well, so places near the corners of buildings are not at all suitable as a landing site. It is not recommended to plant shrubs in areas where roses have already grown. Wetlands are also not suitable. It is best to make beds with slopes so that water does not stagnate in the soil. The root system can be up to 2 m long, so if the soil moisture level is constantly above the norm, then it is best to choose a place for planting on a hill.

Curly roses can be planted near the walls of the house or other buildings. In this case, they are used as decoration. In this case, you need to ensure that the roots do not become thinner. To do this, a distance of at least 0.6 m must be left between the wall and the bush. In any case, landing is carried out near any supports. For example, it can be a fence, a mesh, an arch, walls, cones and poles specially installed for roses, etc.

As for planting time, in places where climatic conditions are moderate, bushes are best planted in open ground in late September or early October. The first roots will appear within the first 2 weeks, so by the beginning of a strong cold snap, the root system will already be strong enough. If you follow the roses in the spring, you will notice the active growth of both the root system and the aerial part, so that the bush will become more lush and strong.

But in the northern regions, it is recommended to plant plants in the spring, because if you plant them in the fall, they simply will not have time to adapt to new conditions, so they will not be able to survive the winter. Those plants that are planted in the spring are a little behind in development: by about a couple of weeks, so they need a lot of attention. Before planting in the ground, seedlings need to be pruned into 3 buds.

Disembarkation rules

Beautiful climbing roses can only be obtained if you choose the right seedlings. They must be healthy. Their ability to survive and quality can be seen from the outside, so be sure to check the trunk. It is whitish-green in color, but by no means brown or gray. Freshly purchased seedlings should not be immediately planted in open ground. Here are the basic preparation rules:

1. 1 The plant should be soaked in ordinary water for a day.
2. 2 Cut off healthy roots by 15 cm. If there are weak or crushed roots, then it is better to cut them off immediately. As a result, only a small beam remains.
3. 3 Strong branches need to be cut to 15 cm, and if there are weak ones, then simply remove them.
4. 4 Treat the cut points with crushed charcoal.
5. 5 Treat the roots with Kornevin or Heteroauxin.

Thanks to such processing and preparation, the roots will begin to grow faster, and the bushes will develop. In addition, during flowering there will be more buds.

A climbing rose should be planted in loamy, fertile soil. It is very important that she is well-drained. Only clay and sand are not at all suitable for growing roses. The soil will be optimal in chemical composition if you add a little lime to it. The fertility of the earth increases if, during its digging, additional substances such as humus, humus, fertilizers with phosphorus, and special soil bacteria are added. You need to prepare the garden plot in advance. At the end of summer, dig it up several times, and then loosen it further in the spring.

Be sure to know how to plant a branched rose. The roots of a young plant should not lack space, so the holes should be free. In depth, they should be about 0.6 m. It is supposed to leave about 1 m between plants so that the roots develop freely and the bushes do not interfere with each other.

When planting roses in the garden in the hole, the following rules are supposed to be observed:

1. 1 In each pit, preliminarily add 5 kg of nutrient mixtures. It is allowed to use peat compost.
2. 2 The void between the roots must be sprinkled.
3. 3 The root neck must be covered by about 11 cm. By the way, this is one of the methods of warming the plant from frost.
4. 4 The planted bush should be watered with a bucket of water, and the liquid should be warm.
5. 5 If there is space left, it should be sprinkled and compacted.

Be sure to remember about the support that supports the flower when it curls. At the same time, the support itself should not interfere with the development of the root system. Grids, tripods and trellises are great as a portable option. By the way, you can build them yourself, using wooden blocks 3 m high. The arches also look beautiful. On both sides you will need to plant a bush. By the end of the 2nd year, the support will be completely entwined with a plant with beautiful inflorescences.

Some gardeners prefer to cover climbing roses when the cuttings are just placed in the ground. Usually plastic water containers are used for this. You need to cut the bottom in them and just bury them in the ground. It is allowed to sprinkle a little sand on top. Breeding roses in this way is considered very popular. This is a good option for warming before wintering. In addition, it is a kind of greenhouse. You need to open the plant only in the spring, when it will be seen that the shrub has begun to grow and develop.

Necessary Care

How to care for a climbing rose is an important issue. Be sure to find out all the points in advance. This applies to the frequency of watering, the use of top dressing and the timing of fertilization. You also need to know about pruning bushes and their insulation before wintering. Another important nuance is protection from diseases and pests.

If a climbing rose is chosen for the garden, care involves the following rules:

1. 1 Watering and feeding. These shrubs do not like excess water. But they can easily tolerate drought. It is recommended to water the plants once a week, using a small amount of liquid. She shouldn't be cold. If the bush is strongly waterlogged, this will lead to the development of fungal and viral diseases, and the appearance of the bush will be poor. Proper cultivation also involves fertilization. Manure and other organic fertilizers are usually used, which must be alternated with mineral compounds. For young shrubs, it will be enough for those fertilizers that were applied to the hole during planting, so at first you do not need to be zealous with top dressing. But the next year after planting, it is supposed to add humus, humus, black soil and phosphate fertilizers.
2. 2 Trimming. Caring for climbing roses necessarily involves timely pruning of shoots. All types of climbing roses can be conditionally divided into 2 types, for which pruning is carried out in different ways. If the shrubs bloom in June and July, then you need to shorten the shoots after planting. Shoots of 30 cm should remain. Growing involves cutting, if necessary, new stems during their active growth. This is required to form a beautiful bush. In the second case, bushes with a small number of root-type shoots that appear only on fairly old branches should be pruned in the first year, shortening them to 30 cm. The next year after planting, all old shoots must be cut off completely.
3. 3 Garter. Roses require careful care. They definitely need a garter. After pruning old branches, new ones will begin to appear. They need to be directed to give the bush a beautiful look. To have more buds in the future, individual branches need to be tied up. At the same time, you need to make sure that they are not directed upwards, since because of this, the buds will appear only at the tops.

Growing involves a garter, in which the following rules must be followed:

1. 1 Shoots are allowed to be placed in the form of a fan, while the side branches are not tied up. They will not interfere, as they grow freely to the sides and up.
2. 2 The main shoots must be placed horizontally, tied to a support. After a while, many side branches will appear on them, which will grow in an upward direction. This produces many beautiful flowers.
3. 3 In order for the branches to braid the pillars and arches, it is recommended to twist them in a spiral around the support.

Thanks to the implementation of such rules, the bush will braid the support, which will look very beautiful.

Additional factors

• Warming

Growing a climbing rose requires mandatory warming before wintering. Before covering the bushes, they need to be properly prepared. To do this, it is necessary to remove dry leaves, cut off old branches and weak shoots. As a result, only 10-12 strong shoots remain. All actions must be carried out only in dry weather.

There are different methods for covering roses. Their choice depends on the region where the roses grow. If the climate is milder, then the branches from the support can not be removed. They are allowed to be covered with spruce branches, and then wrapped with an additional film.

If the winter is too cold in the region, then the branches are supposed to be removed from the support. First you need to collect them in a large bundle and tie. When the temperature drops to 5 ° C, then this bundle must be carefully tilted to the ground and fixed with stakes and wire. The base of the bush should be covered with a mixture of soil and peat, and the shoots should be covered with spruce branches. From above, cover everything with agrofiber or film.

In the spring, it is important to remove the entire structure in time. Otherwise, without fresh air and high humidity, the roses will simply suffocate and rot. After opening the bush, the shoots must be tied back to the support. Introduce the first top dressing only after young leaves appear.

• Disease prevention.

If the bushes are not properly cared for, powdery mildew, black spot, or bacterial cancer may develop. These are the most common diseases of climbing roses. Be sure to follow all the rules for caring for the plant. In addition, all dry branches and leaves must be burned, otherwise the disease will pass from them to new shoots and flowers. In addition, you need to use chemicals and folk remedies.

Conclusion

If climbing roses are chosen for the garden plot, planting and care will be quite difficult. To grow a strong bush that will please with abundant and long flowering, a number of rules must be observed. Roses are considered rather capricious plants, but on the other hand, they will please with beautiful inflorescences and delicate aroma.

How elegant climbing roses look on the fences. Caring for a plant is not an easy process, requiring a certain amount of time and effort. But no difficulties can keep flower growers from planting a climbing rose on their site.

Popular varieties of climbing roses

Before you purchase planting material for this flower, you need to have information about its varieties. Depending on the species, the care and planting of a climbing rose may differ. Some varieties are quite unpretentious to soil, watering and fertilizers. Others are the opposite.

The most common varieties of climbing roses:

• "Flammentants" - a species that tolerates cold well;
• "Dortmund" - the growth of the bush reaches two meters, blooms with bright red flowers on a dark green background of leaves;
• "Heidelberg" - winter-hardy and unpretentious, blooms with large scarlet blooms;
• "New Dawn" - the height of the bush can be six meters. The color of the buds is light pink, resistant to diseases;
• "Climbing minehaha" - blooms pink in the last month of spring, the height of the bush can reach four meters;
• "Dorothy Perkins" - the buds of this variety are not large (up to three centimeters in diameter), the plant has bright green leaves.

When is a climbing rose planted, and how to prepare the soil?

Cultivation of a climbing rose begins with its planting. It is worth buying planting material in advance, choosing a site and preparing the soil.

Climbing roses are planted in spring or autumn.

Previously, a piece of land must be dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel. Add peat, lime and humus in equal proportions to the soil. Planting a climbing rose begins with digging holes. Pits should be half a meter by half a meter. The wells should be well watered.

It is better to put a mixture of manure (2.5 kilograms), clay (5 kilograms) and phosphorobacterin tablets (2 pieces) at the bottom. The compound must be thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass.

Planting a climbing rose

A purchased climbing rose bush requires preliminary preparation for planting. The shoots and the root system should be cut to the same length, no more than thirty centimeters. This approach will strengthen the bush and ensure abundant flowering.

Sections on the roots are treated with ash, and on the shoots with garden pitch. This is done in order to protect the climbing rose from infections and speed up the healing process. After planting, the seedling should be covered with earth for a successful wintering. Between young bushes you need to leave a distance of about a meter and a half.

When placing a seedling in a planting hole, it is worth carefully spreading the roots of the plant. When filling the soil, it is necessary to tamp it so that voids do not form. If gaps remain between the roots, there is a danger of frost damage.

When planting a weaving rose or the walls of a house, you need to leave a distance between them of about half a meter.

Climbing rose care

The basic rules for caring for a climbing rose are:

• pruning;
• top dressing;
• watering;

It is especially important to monitor young saplings, they need to be watered regularly and fertilized with useful minerals. Weed and loosen the basal plot of land as it becomes contaminated with weeds.

Already from the middle of autumn, you need to start preparing for the winter period. On any September day, weak shoots are selected and cut off. The whips of climbing roses will independently begin to fall to the ground (a little later they are covered). After a couple of weeks, the branches of the plant will get used to the horizontal position. At this time, the lashes must be collected in bundles, consisting of three or four pieces, and treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

When the air temperature drops below five degrees, it is worth cutting off all the leaves and covering the bare branches.

Shelter for the winter

Caring for a climbing rose also consists in properly covering it for the winter. In the place where the lashes of the plant lay, you need to dig small indentations. Fold the fallen leaves on their bottom, place rose lashes there and cover it with the same material from above. A film or roofing material is also laid on a natural shelter. In the spring, the plant will need to be opened.

Proper care of a climbing rose is not possible without the pruning process. In the spring, weak and damaged shoots should be determined on the bush. Such branches must be removed.

In the summer, already faded lashes are cut off, in this way the bush is rejuvenated and forms new shoots.

What and how to feed

If you know how to care for a climbing rose, you can grow a beautiful bush with abundant flowering. The plant is demanding on top dressing; during the growth period, it is necessary to fertilize the flower more than five times. The introduction of mineral and organic substances will positively affect the development of roses. It is desirable to alternate them. During the flowering period, the plant is not fed.

Climbing roses are drought-resistant flowers, waterlogging the soil for them can lead to death. There is also a high risk of being exposed to various diseases. Therefore, the plant is not watered often, about once every seven days.

Control of diseases and pests

Some of the most common diseases in climbing roses are:

• bark cancer;
• powdery mildew.

If left untreated, the plant will quickly die. Powdery mildew is removed with Bordeaux liquid. With this tool, it is worth spraying the bushes at least three times within two weeks.

The fight against bark cancer is difficult, so it is better to take preventive measures. For example, timely shelter and release from it. If the plant has undergone a disease, then you need to cut off the damaged area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rose. It should definitely be burned.

Climbing beauty pests are:

• spider mite.

The safest methods of protection against aphids and spider mites are spraying the bush with decoctions of nettle and horsetail. But in case of a severe defeat of the rose, you need to resort to the help of insecticides.

The most popular decoration, fences, walls are climbing roses. A photo against the background of this plant is an indescribable beauty that any gardener can grow.

Video - climbing rose care

Climbing roses are considered one of the most popular plants for vertical gardening. They are indispensable in landscape design, perfectly decorating any architectural buildings. Climbing varieties braid arches, arbors, lattice structures and columns. Most often, these flowers are grown in areas where a mild and warm climate prevails. In regions with cold weather, roses also grow, but require additional warming for the winter.

Getting to know the climbing rose - which variety to choose?

Choosing a seedling for planting is an important step in growing roses in your garden. After all, the future development of the plant depends on the quality of the shoot. Flowers go on sale in February, but such an early purchase often leads to disappointment. Inexperienced gardeners do not cope with the storage of the shoot, because until the moment of disembarkation it must be properly maintained.

Flower growers are advised to choose a sleeping seedling. Then it is wrapped in paper or placed in a bag and sent to the zero chamber of the refrigerator. In such conditions, he will safely wait for his time.

If the first signs of growth are visible on a young plant, it is stored in the same way. But when stepsons and leaves began to develop at the seedling, it must be urgently planted in a pot for growing, watered and sprayed. Before planting in open ground, the bush is stored in a lighted cool room.

Climbing roses are a rather capricious garden culture. To quickly understand their properties and features, flowers are divided into several groups. You can get acquainted with them in the following classification:

1. 1. Real climbing roses with flexible arcuate stems. In length, they reach from 1.5 to 5 meters, depending on the variety. The stepchildren are bright green in color, the spikes are curved and thin. The flowers have a variety of shades, they are double and semi-double in shape, most often small in size. The flowering is plentiful, the buds gather in dense inflorescences and do not wither for a month. They bloom in early June. Representatives of this species are winter-hardy, experiencing frosts under light cover.
2. 2. The second group was bred as a result of crossing with remontant, tea and hybrid tea varieties. They are called climbers. The resulting plants are characterized by high-speed growth and long shoots that reach 4 meters. Roses have large flowers, gathering in loose panicles. The main features are the ability to re-bloom, resistance to cold and many diseases.
3. 3. The third group, known as climbings, was bred by mutations from spray roses with large buds. Varieties are characterized by strong growth, and their flowering time comes a little later. The buds develop large, have a bright saturated shade.

Planting a climbing rose on the site - secrets for beginners

A climbing rose is planted both in autumn and in spring. Although you should stop at the first option. In the autumn, the seedlings harden off and start growing more actively. And bushes of spring planting lag behind in development for several weeks.

Autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October. This is the most favorable time: the heat has passed, and the cold weather is still far away. Such seedlings have time to take root before the first frost.

Such a landing method is risky for the northern regions, for example, Siberia. It is more suitable for the Moscow region and the Middle strip. During severe winters, young plants die immediately. If the gardener is not sure whether his flowers will be able to overwinter, you should plant a bush in April-May.

For the planting site of seedlings, sunlit areas are chosen, in extreme cases, semi-darkened corners of the territory are suitable. Excess moisture is poorly tolerated by this crop, so it is not recommended to grow it on heavy clay soil with nearby groundwater.

Representatives of the Pink family take root well in fertile loose soil. The ideal condition would be a plot with a slight slope to the south.

How to carry out preparatory work?

For planting take samples with developed roots or already grafted. A strong bush should have 2-3 lignified stepchildren. Healthy bark on the trunk and branches is green and undamaged. Also, high-quality samples are distinguished by the presence of many white small roots.

Purchased specimens are left in water for several hours to absorb moisture. In the spring, a rose with an open rhizome is placed in a container with a root formation stimulator (for example, Kornevin, Kornerost). In such a solution, the plant needs to be within a day.

Before directly burying the bush in the ground, it is cut a little. Remove damaged roots and slightly shorten old long shoots (by 5–10 cm). If the seedling is purchased with a closed root system, that is, in a container, then it is not cut off. But an earthen lump, in which thin whitish roots are visible, is still soaked in water.

In order for the flowering of climbing plants to be lush, the right soil is selected for them, ideally it should be loamy and well loosened. If the land on the site does not meet these parameters, it is improved.

Clay soil is diluted with sand, and a small amount of clay is added to sandy soil. Fertility from such actions will not increase, but it will allow to establish the permeability of moisture and air. The scarce substrate is enriched with chernozem, biohumus. With such a mixture, the planting hole is filled to 2/3 of its volume in order to freely place the rhizome.

The top layer of soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost (5 kg) and wood ash (1 tablespoon). Sometimes a rose is fed with a complex potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, 15 g per sample. Nitrogen substances are introduced into the ground only during spring planting (calculated as 20 g for one bush).

The soil is often enriched with beneficial microorganisms. They are able to process those substances that are poorly absorbed by roses, turning them into available ones. Preparations containing such bacteria are sold in specialized stores.

Growing technology and principles of care for seedlings

Bushes with dormant buds are planted in open ground when its temperature reaches 10–12 degrees. If planting work is carried out in the spring, then the time of planting is determined by the condition of the buds on the trees. Instances with open roots are planted before they bloom. Container samples are placed in the ground after opening the eyes.

The seat is prepared in advance, replacing unfavorable soil with a special mixture, which consists of the following components:

• leaf land;
• peat;
• rotted manure;
• sod land;
• sand.

All ingredients are mixed in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1: 1 and fill the hole with them. Depth of processing - not less than 70 cm. As a result of preparation, the recess for the seedling is filled with layers:

• the lower area is filled with drainage (pebbles, rubble, broken bricks);
• medium level - a mixture of nutrients;
• the top layer is garden soil.

If the gardener makes a single planting, the size of the pit is 60 cm high and the same width. In groups, the distance between representatives of vigorous varieties is 2 m, for the rest the distance is reduced - 1.5 m. The soil on the entire site is cultivated by double digging. Virgin lands are dug up three times.

When all the preparatory work has been done, it's time to place the bush in a new place. Landing is carried out in the following sequence:

• check the size of the pit, it should be wide and deep enough;
• pour a hill of preplant soil mixture;
• the roots are distributed along the slope of the mound;
• sprinkle with an earthen mixture, evenly dividing it between the rhizome;
• shake the plant up and down;
• the soil is compacted, eliminating voids, filled to the very edge.

The vaccination site is immersed in the ground by 5 cm, it should not be above this level. The bush is watered abundantly with water, a little soil is added. When the young branches grow by 2–3 cm, the rose is unraveled.

A bush that is planted against a wall has roots in the opposite direction from it. They also act when planting a flower near a support in the form of lattices, arches or columns.

The specimen, which was in the container, is filled with water and removed from the package. Broken shoots are removed. During transplantation, the earthen ball is left intact, placing the rose in the hole with it. If leaves have formed on the seedling, then it is not spudded.

The long stems of the climbing flower initially need partial shading and shelter from drafts. After the buds open, the bush begins to be hardened by the sun and wind, temporarily removing the shelter. A few days later it is completely removed.

We learn to care for flowers - we carry out pruning, disease prevention and shelter for the winter

Care for representatives of the Pink family during their cultivation consists in regular watering, fertilizing, pruning and shelter for the cold season.

To prepare a rose for winter, it is customary to cover it. For this purpose, two methods are used:

1. 1. With the air-dry method, the branches of the rose are bent to the ground, a frame is erected over them and a plastic film is stretched. The non-woven fabric is placed on top. With the onset of spring, the snow leaves the greenhouse and it becomes hot inside. To prevent the flowers from rotting and getting sick, the shelter is ventilated.
2. 2. The second technique is more simplified. The branches are bent down and immediately covered with non-woven material in two layers. Additionally insulated with spruce branches. Such a structure does not allow the plant to sop during the thaw. However, if the winter is wet, the seal becomes wet. In contact with the stems, it causes controversy.

In preparation for wintering, the leaves are cut off on the bushes so that they do not become a source of an infectious disease. They start such work in September, finish - before the construction of greenhouses (until November). They rent a shelter when frosts below -7 degrees are not expected on the street.

Caring for climbing roses, making annual pruning. There are two types of such procedures:

• anti-aging (applied to old bushes, allows you to get rid of lignified branches that do not give new shoots);
• forming (carried out every year several times per season).

The most important time for pruning is spring. When the plant woke up, the caked stepchildren are straightened, shearing the blackened shoots to a clean tissue. Places of cuts are treated with brilliant green or garden pitch. Bushes affected by fungal infections and mold are sprayed with copper sulfate.

The plant is pruned again after the first flowering, removing wilted inflorescences and buds. If the rose is prone to a second bloom, cut off some of the shoots. This will save her from overgrowing and allow her to bloom fully.